VOL. 1 / ISSUE 2
WINTER 2015
WINEMAKER’S Q UA RT E R LY PRESENTED BY ETS LABS
- F E AT U R E Lessons from Harvest 2014 -TECHNOLOGY Advancements in our laboratory - N E W AT E T S Scorpion Panels: Simplified
TABLE OF CONTENTS VOL. 1 ISSUE 2
WINTER 2015
4
Questions and Answers
7
Advancing Technology
9
Harvest in Review
12
New options for Scorpions
15
Calendar of Events
Editorial Team:
Owners: Gordon Burns, Marjorie Burns Creative Direction: Evin Morrison
Photography: Kingsley Burns, Evin Morrison
Editorial Contributors: Rich DeScenzo, Steve Price, Eric Herve, Gordon Burns, Marjorie Burns
Questions or feedback? Send us a note: editor@etslabs.com
T
he 2014 harvest is behind us! Thank you for allowing us to serve you by providing analyses on time, every time, supported by our extraordinary team of scientists and experts.
We have recently restructured our Scorpion microbiology panels to make it easier than ever to get fast and accurate microbiology results. The new lineup provides winemakers with a simplified set of panels that include more components than before. Though the panels are more inclusive, we have been able to reduce the cost to our clients! Learn more on page 12.
Our team also analyzed the 2014 harvest data alongside data from previous vintages, compiling annual trends (page 9). We hope this comparative data will be useful not only in understanding the 2014 vintage, but also for predicting and managing future harvests. ETS continues to improve our analytical capabilities and develop new tools to assist you with your craft. Highlights of the latest analytical updates and innovations are summarized on page 7. We look forward to working with you during 2015 and continuing our 37+ year partnership.
Gordon Burns (707) 302-1211 gburns@etslabs.com
Marjorie Burns (707) 302-1222 mburns@etslabs.com ETSLABS.COM
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Q&A We have compiled some of the most frequently asked questions we get in the lab and answered them for you here. I haven’t heard about TCA and Haloanisole taints in a while, are they still a problem? In the late ‘90s, ETS worked with the Cork Quality Council to develop a “Releasable TCA” test for corks. Large-scale implementation in the wine industry has drastically cut the occurrence of true “cork taint” in US wines. Since then, we’ve uncovered several other ways haloanisoles can taint wine. Long ago, European researchers pinpointed two haloanisoles originating in wood preservatives: TeCA and PCA. These compounds can cause atmospheric contamination in wineries, and cause wet cardboard smells in wines even before bottling. In the early 2000s, ETS discovered that TCA also can contaminate whole winemaking facilities. Chlorine bleach was widely used until recently as a sanitizer in wineries. This bleach can form TCP, TCA’s direct precursor. Common molds and soil bacteria transform TCP into TCA, which is very volatile and becomes airborne, contaminating wine. Our research shows that TCP and TCA can also be introduced through contaminated water supplies, and can even form in the vineyard. We also learned about another problem haloanisole, TBA, which originates in wood preservatives that are banned in North America. TBA can be inadvertently “imported” in treated pallets, wine processing aids, or new barrels contaminated during shipment. We’ve recently seen an increased frequency of contamination incidents in barreled wine, typically caused by TBA or TCA. We have started using new GC/MS QQQ technology to detect trace amounts of haloanisoles in barrels and cooperage oak, giving the industry a new tool to screen materials and prevent contamination. In short, the problems from TCA and other haloanisoles have not disappeared, and we are continuing to offer new tools to help you prevent contamination in your wine.
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How can I measure Oak Aroma to fine tune my barrel-aged wines? Oak aromas are an integral part of many fine wines, and may be monitored throughout the aging process. Oak aromas are very complex, but targeted aroma analysis can help make sense of it all. The targeted compounds measured in the ETS Oak Aroma Panel are either “impact” compounds primarily responsible for specific aromas, or strong indicators of “families” of aroma compounds. These aroma compounds vary with oak origin, toasting profiles and cooper styles. Desired levels of these aromas can be directed by winemaking production decisions and practices. Concentrations of the targeted aroma compounds (cis & trans oak lactones, vanillin, eugenol & isoeugenol, furfural & 5-methylfurfural, guaiacol & 4-methylguaiacol) are reported in ug/L (ppb). Results are also delivered visually as a spider graph, so you are able to see how an individual wine compares to an average or to a similar wine. The graphs also indicate sensory descriptors associated with the compounds measured, giving you an idea of the sensory profile. The easiest way to begin monitoring oak aroma is to start with samples from a barrel trial using a white wine, like a Chardonnay. The oak aromas imparted by different barrels are easier to identify by comparing your sensory impressions to the oak aromas on the corresponding spider graph. Some winemakers use oak aroma analysis as a routine quality control tool, in order to ensure consistency from one batch to another. But even if you don’t go that far, the experience of comparing your sensory impressions with spider plots and actual numbers will change the way you assess oak aromas.
What problems are often associated with high levels of Pediococcus? Pediococcus damnosus, Pediococcus parvulus, Pediococcus pentosaceus, and Pediococcus inpoinatus are species of lactic acid bacteria often found in wine, with Pediococcus parvulus being the most common species found in the western US (data compiled from ETS Scorpion analysis). Pediococcus produces biogenic amines such as histamine, putrescine, tyramine, and cadaverine. These biogenic amines are produced by the bacteria via metabolism of amino acids often present in the wine. Elevated levels of biogenic amines can have a negative impact on wine aroma, resulting in a muting or masking of aroma. In the worst cases, off aromas described as “rotting meat”, “dishrag” or similar descriptors are observed. In addition, biogenic amine levels are of increasing interest to the wine industry due to international regulatory issues. These Pediococcus species can cause defects in wine such as “ropy” or “greasy” textures, off aromas and bitterness. Spoilage of wine by Pediococcus will vary depending upon the species/strain of bacteria and the chemical composition of the wine. Some species of Pediococcus may produce polysaccharides that cause undesirable texture defects. These can range from small amounts of polysaccharides that may impact mouth feel to excessive amounts producing a “ropy” effect in wines. Pediococcus prefer elevated pH levels, making wines with pH values greater than 3.7 at high risk for Pediococcus growth. It is relatively easy to control Pediococcus with adequate levels of molecular SO2. Wines with higher pH are more vulnerable to spoilage by Pediococcus because as pH increases, the percent of free SO2 in the molecular form decreases. Current trends in wine styles emphasizing longer hang time generally result in wines with higher pH values. The increased number of wines with elevated pH is one reason why Pediococcus is being reported more frequently in wines.
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ON THE E D GE ETS has a proud tradition of innovation, pioneering the use of new technologies in the wine industry. We continue to invest heavily in advanced technology, equipment, and research to bring you new and improved tools to enhance your craft. In 2013, ETS introduced a new analytical tool to monitor levels of Glutathione, a natural antioxidant. Winemakers producing white and rosé wines are now using this tool to help preserve fresh aromas and flavors naturally, by focusing on production techniques to pinpoint problems and maximize glutathione levels in their finished wines. New generations of specialized molecular technology and equipment have helped us to achieve major efficiencies in our Scorpion DNA testing. These improvements now allow ETS customers to gain broader insights about the microorganisms in their wine at a lower cost than ever before. Advances in detection technology have improved the usefulness of IBMP (green bell pepper aroma) assays and biogenic amine analysis.
N E W Q Q Q C A PA B I L I T I E S The newest generation of technology at ETS is already delivering enormous benefits to our clients. Our GC/MS/MS and UHPLC QQQ “triple quad” instruments have allowed us to expand our range of services and enhance the performance of our existing analytical tools. This new generation of instruments delivers higher sensitivity and selectivity, enabling more accurate quantitation and identification of target compounds in highly complex samples like wine. ETS remains committed to searching for and implementing groundbreaking analytical tools in our partnership with you to help create quality wines.
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8 |WINEMAKER’S QUARTERLY
Lessons Learned Seasonal variation is a continual challenge to grape growers and winemakers. Recent vintages have varied greatly, testing the skills of the wine industry. In the vineyard the goal is to produce the highest quality fruit with optimal flavors while minimizing losses. In the winery the challenge is to make consistently good wines with fruit of varying composition from year to year.
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THE 2014 GROWING SEASON Despite the best efforts in the vineyard, fruit arriving at the winery will be variable from one year to the next due to the forces of nature. The 2014 vintage again showed that grape growing and winemaking do not follow a standard cookbook recipe. The ability to read a vintage and respond appropriately is key to maintaining target wine styles.
bloom. Fruit set was variable depending on the region but Oregon had extremely heavy set in the Willamette Valley. Warm temperatures continued through the summer all the way to harvest. Several areas had record heat unit accumulations but there were few periods of excessive heat and most areas had little or no late rain. Harvest was early across the board The 2014 growing season was consistently with harvest well underway by the start of warm on the West Coast. After a colder than September. normal winter, April, May and June were all Warm seasons present unique opportunities and warmer than average resulting in a very early also a few unique problems. A warmer year is a
chance to get the fruit off early before rain, rot and birds set in. The biggest concern in a warm, early year is fruit ripening in the hot weather of late summer rather than later, in cooler early fall weather. Sugar accumulation can race ahead of other maturation processes. High Brix can force premature picking with resulting low color, unripe seeds and vegetative aromas. The steady warm weather in 2014 avoided some of these problems however, and many maturation processes kept pace with sugar accumulation.
“ Warm seasons present unique opportunities and also a few unique problems.” SEED RIPENING
In Oregon, the good set produced heavily seeded fruit but the seeds ripened on schedule and concentrations of catechin, a main indicator of seed tannins, were close to normal.
Monitoring extractable catechin in Cabernet Sauvignon fruit from a Napa Valley block during the last three vintages: 2014 results show both an early decrease and extremely low levels of seed tannin markers.
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In Northern California, fruit and seed set was light to moderate. This light fruit and seed set pattern, combined with warm temperatures resulted in catechin levels lower than any we have seen at ETS in the last twenty years. This trend was identifiable very early in grape maturity monitoring samples. Harvest sample grape extracts of Cabernet Sauvignon often
Catechin (mg/L)
Seed ripening is a heat-responsive process and the warm weather of the 2014 growing season ripened seeds much earlier than usual.
came in with no detectable catechin, looking more like Syrah than Cabernet. Predictably, wines ended up with low catechin and very low catechin/tannin ratios. It was a good year to have some Petit Verdot around to provide some of the grip usually provided by seed tannin in Cabernet.
TANNINS Tannin concentrations in wine are determined by grape skin and seed tannin levels, the extractability of the tannin and the amount of juice relative to the skins and seeds. As discussed above, seed ripening greatly reduces the extractability of seed tannin. As a result many Cabernet wines had little or no seed contribution to the tannin pool in 2014. Anthocyanins appear to facilitate skin tannin extractability. They are also subject to degradation on the vine in warmer weather. As a result, anthocyanin values were lower in 2014 than 2013 and skin tannin extractability may
have been reduced. In addition, grape water content seemed equal to or higher than 2013 and this had a diluting effect. Consequently, 2014 wines had relatively low levels of skin tannin and little or no seed tannin. Often efforts to extract more tannin were only marginally effective. Even extended macerations of up to six weeks often resulted in no additional tannin extraction. This was all very different than the 2013 season where tannin was abundant and winemakers were primarily concerned with stopping tannin extraction before they exceeded their target levels.
In cases where higher tannin values were desired, monitoring tannin extraction in wine and responding with more aggressive winemaking techniques was not always successful. SaignĂŠes would have been effective in these situations, but a saignĂŠe decision needs to be made prior to the start of fermentation. Both grape phenolic information and grape water content are promising as tools for predicting potential tannin prior to crush.
Seed ripening in July and early August in 2014 greatly reduced total extractable tannin.
Even high vigor areas had low IBMP by harvest.
IBMP
Grape IBMP in high and low vigor areas of a Cabernet Sauvignon block.
Tannin (mg/L)
Grape tannin in a Napa Cabernet Sauvignon block from 2013 and 2014.
FLAVORS It is well established that the accumulation and decline of green flavors are strongly influenced by heat and vine vigor. Concentrations of IBMP (the main methoxypyrazine associated with green flavor in grapes) decline during the ripening process due to a metabolic conversion back to a non-odorous precursor. This process can be interrupted when early senescence blocks many metabolic processes. When high grape IBMP levels are combined with vine collapse from sudden heat or hydric stress, vineyards may produce fruit with a combination of
CONCLUSION vegetal/green and jammy/cooked flavors on top of high sugars and potentially green seeds. In Northern California, the warm steady weather in 2014 started the decline in methoxypyrazines well ahead of usual. There were no heat spikes to interfere with metabolic ripening. Low vigor sites had no detectable IBMP by the beginning of August. Even problematic sites with high vigor were seeing low levels of IBMP before harvest. Other metabolic process such as malic acid respiration had similar early declines.
Annual variation in grape composition is to be expected even in warm grape production areas. The 2014 vintage is best described as early, warm and easy, but understanding the implications of an early, warm season is not always easy. The ability to respond to whatever comes remains one the hallmarks of a skilled winemaker.
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SCORPIONS: A NEW FORMAT Technological advances and broad industry acceptance have allowed us to make some amazing changes to the way one of our unique tests will be offered to our clients. Scorpion™ testing has come a very long way in the last few years, allowing us to simplify the testing options and offer greater value. “It is exciting that our unique Scorpions technology has been so widely adopted by clients as part of their routine winemaking toolkit. Expanding the standard panels and reducing the cost is another leap forward,” Gordon Burns said. 12 | WINEMAKER’S QUARTERLY
ETS developed our series of Scorpions™ assays to provide winemakers a tool for rapid identification and quantitation of spoilage microbes in their wines. The assays utilize a combination of gene amplification and hybridization to accurately identify and quantify the total number of viable cells in a sample. Proactive use of Scorpions™ technology enables early detection of wine spoilage microbes, allowing early intervention, minimizing or preventing spoilage and preserving quality. The long, and often daunting, list of Scorpion™ testing options has been combined into three easy-to-use panels: The Yeast Panel, the Bacteria Panel and the Combined Panel, which delivers all the results of both the Yeast Panel and the Bacteria Panel. Scorpion testing has become an important tool in the winemaker’s toolkit, and many of our clients use Scorpions™ as part of their routine monitoring.
“The new panels will reduce confusion with a simpler menu that includes all the organisms, eliminating data delays due to ordering errors” says Dr. Richard DeScenzo. “In this day and age when prices are going up, we have worked very hard to implement automation allowing ETS to offer more information at a reduced cost for each Scorpion panel.” Since we first introduced Scorpion™ testing to the wine industry in 2005, it has become the gold standard for microbiology testing. At first, Scorpions™ represented about 3% of the microbial testing at ETS, while traditional plating was still the most commonly utilized method. ETS’ goal was to spread awareness of the benefits of Scorpion™ analysis to the wine industry with educational and outreach programs. By 2009, these rapid DNA tests were being used by winemakers throughout the country. Scorpion™ testing is now utilized for about
80% of requested routine microbiology monitoring at ETS, allowing winemakers to radically change their response times to prevent spoilage. As more customers have embraced Scorpion™ testing, ETS has continued to develop and enhance our technology and automate testing. “We are excited to be able to make these changes and improvements to our offerings so that clients can get more for less.” Burns said. “We have worked hard to identify places in the technology that we can improve, and we have made those changes.” The new Scorpion™ panels provide comprehensive information for preemptive screening to look ahead and prevent problems as well as forensic analysis to look back to find out the cause of existing problems. Scorpion™ results used in conjunction with chemistry data provide winemakers with a powerful production tool to enhance quality. >> Continue ETSLABS.COM |
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>> Continued from previous page
“When the chemistry results indicate a wine environment permissive to microbial growth you need microbiology analysis, in particular Scorpions, to assess risk. The two are linked,” DeScenzo said, “used together they can be instrumental in early intervention to reduce spoilage and maintain quality.” The Yeast Panel detects fermentation and spoilage yeast (Saccharomyces, Brettanomyces, and Zygosaccharomyces). The Bacteria Panel detects malolactic bacteria, lactic acid bacteria, and acetic acid bacteria (Oenococcus, Lactobacillus, Pediococcus, and Acetic Acid bacteria) and can be used to assess stuck and sluggish fermentations. The Combined Panel includes all the yeast panel and bacteria panel organisms, giving you the most complete analytical picture of what microbes are in your wine. Used separately, or in combination, ETS Scorpions™ enable the winemaker to specifically monitor those organisms that pose a threat to the quality of their individual wine.
Scorpion results provide winemakers with a powerful production tool to enhance quality.
The presence of a particular microbe at different points of the wine production process can represent different levels of risk. “We hope that if you’re new to Scorpion testing or unsure of which test to select, that you will call and talk to us. If you are a returning Scorpion user and have any questions about the results that you receive, we are always available to talk with you about our findings and what courses of action are available to you,” DeScenzo said.
SCORPIONS I N ACT I O N
TM
Used separately, or in combination, ETS Scorpions™ enable the winemaker to specifically monitor those organisms that pose a threat to the quality of their individual wines.
Brettanomyces
Pediococcus
Widely distributed yeast in wineries, they can produce high concentrations of volatile acids, esters, and the volatile phenols 4-ethylphenol (4EP) and 4-ethylguaiacol (4EG). These volatile phenols and many other metabolites contribute to offflavors and taints.
One of the common lactic acid bacteria found in wine. They may produce polysaccharides that cause undesirable texture defects. Pediococcus can produce biogenic amines, such as histamine, putrescine and cadaverine.
Zygosaccharomyces
Acetic Acid Bacteria
A spoilage yeast that is tolerant of high sugar concentrations and is resistant to sorbate, it is commonly found in wineries and is associated with grape juice concentrates used to adjust color and sugar in final wine blends. The yeast can cause turbidity and CO2 gas in bottled wines.
Commonly associated with grapes and the winery environment, the three groups of commonly detected acetic acid bacteria are Gluconobacter, Gluconacetobacter and Acetobacter. These organisms can cause elevated volatile acidity in wines exposed to air.
Saccharomyces
Lactobacillus
Saccharomyces is not usually considered a wine spoilage organism as it is the yeast responsible for conducting primary fermentation. However, Saccharomyces is a potential spoilage organism if present in a bottled wine containing sugar.
Another lactic acid bacteria commonly found in wine. Some species of Lactobacillus are notorious for producing high levels of acetic acid, especially during stuck or sluggish fermentations.
Keep an eye out for our Harvest issue to see the additional Scorpion™ Panels designed for juice.
Panel
Organisms Tested
Volume
Container Target Type Turnaround Price
Brettanomyces bruxellensis Yeast Panel
Saccharomyces cerevisiae Zygosaccharomyces bailii
60 mL
Standard ETS sample tube
2 working days
$60
60 mL
Standard ETS sample tube
2 working days
$60
60 mL
Standard ETS sample tube
2 working days
$120
Acetic acid bacteria Lactobacillus brevis/hilgardii/fermentum Lactobacillus casei/paracasei/mali/nagelii Bacteria Panel
Lactobacillus kunkeei Lactobacillus plantarum Oenococcus Pediococcus
Combined Panel Includes all organisms from both yeast and bacteria panels
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EVENTS
MARCH
04
Wednesday 7:30 AM St. Helena, CA
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Mon. - Wed. Paso Robles, CA
Be a part of the inaugural IQ tradeshow at Charles Krug winery. We are excited to be a part of this first technical symposium centered on winery innovation. Come find us at booth #325.
APRIL
08
Wednesday 9 AM Walla Walla, WA
Join Eric Herve for his popular sensory seminar. Come learn about the different chemical compounds that are found in wine and put your nose to the test during this interactive discussion.
MAY
06
Wednesday 10 AM Walla Walla, WA
Join us at Walla Walla Community College for an in-depth discussion about sanitizing your winery and preventing harmful microorganisms from contaminating your wine.
We hope to see you at WiVi’s Central Coast Wine Industry Conference and Tradeshow at the Paso Robles Event Center. We will be at booth #322.
For more information and a full list of our events, visit our website: etslabs.com/seminars
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