Fashion

The Fall/Winter shows of New York and London Fashion Week have both been vibrant and enticing in their own ways. With New York Fashion week featuring tributes to the city itself as well as sweeping new trends, London Fashion Week has exhibited a surprising new model, subverting the usual rigid body dimensions of runway models.

New York Fashion Week provided some beautiful new trends which would be very much wearable come Autumn and Winter. Flowing shapes were central to many of the shows, with capes taking centre stage. Proenza Schouler’s collection was one of my personal favourites, with asymmetrical capes draped over the models in muted colours, making this a very sleek and wearable collection. Michael Kors also paraded capes within the collection, with a focus upon classic buckle fastenings, rendering this a very sophisticated look with an outdoorsy, countryside focus. As high street trends have recently been leaning towards looser flowing shapes, the cape trend could very well be one which flourishes come Autumn/Winter 2020. New York Fashion Week also boasted a huge variety of colours, particularly neons and jewel tones, such as orange, red, fuschia pink and lime green. New and upcoming designer Christopher John Roger’s collection particularly stood out to me. Its evening wear featured a huge array of vibrant colours, as well as delightful fabric textures that set off the colours and succeeded in creating a truly eye-catching collection. Not only this, but the use of ruffles, high necks and puffed sleeves meant this collection oozed femininity, whilst simultaneously refusing to adhere to the expectation that dresses shouldn’t contain a bit of everything. Understated doesn’t seem to be a word in Christopher John Rogers vocabulary, and this is what makes his collection so breath-taking. Ruffles and puff sleeves seemed to be the popular theme throughout New York Fashion Week, with Ulla Johnson presenting a collection filled with ruffles, taffeta and balloon sleeves in rich jewel tones, as well as Oscar De La Renta, who also incorporated a bold red lip.

The final show of the Autumn/Winter New York Fashion Week 2020 was Marc Jacobs, who presented his show in an unusual way; guests sat on small wooden table whilst models walked around them like pedestrians rather than walking the catwalk as in traditional fashion shows. This was something of a tribute to the city of New York, thus rounding off the show in the most appropriate way.

In my opinion, New York trumped London Fashion Week, however, London still presented some magnificent collections, with a few similarities to those exhibited in New York. Ruffles and puffed sleeves seem to be a huge upcoming trend, with Preen presenting some beautiful party pieces with crisp tailoring and evening wear that is both classic and slightly unconventional.

The most significant thing to me about London Fashion Week was the rule-breaking that occurred, thus suggesting a possible rebirth of fashion, a thrilling concept. Actress Lena Dunham modelled for 16Arlington, a surprising modelling debut that many may not have expected. This sparks a suggestion that the body standard for models may be gradually being subverted in favour of bodies that more accurately reflect the shape and size of women as a whole. In general, 16Arlington is really pushing for body positivity and inclusivity, incorporating larger sizes into their collections and stocking up to a size 16 in their ready-to-wear collection.

Finally, Matty Bovan’s collection stood out to me as one which displayed creativity and individuality, as well as being fun and fresh. Models wore large hairpieces, with some exhibiting sheer curtains suspended above their heads. The unusual silhouettes and use of contrasting fabrics made this a collection that would be very hard to forget. Chloe Buchan compares London and New York Fashion Weeks biggest highs and lows Image: @marcjacobs on Instagram NY Fashion Week provided some very wearable new trends

New celeb fashion lines are announced often – perhaps too often – usually with that somewhat overly extended social media countdown and a glossy name which isn’t actually all that glossy other than an ‘X’ between the celeb’s name and another fast-fashion brand. Original, right? The thing is, this buzz about a new range of clothing be- ing released seems a bit OTT for my liking, especially when there’s barely anything other than a label that differentiates the new cloth- ing from another influencer’s that was only released a few months prior. So are new celeb fashion lines really all that big of a deal?

We all know what I’m talking about here. The likes of Love Island’s Molly-Mae joining up with Pretty Little Thing in 2019 after leaving the Ma- jorcan villa, along with Little Mix bringing the snakeskin to our online PLT shopping January of this year. Along the higher end of the spec- trum, we’ve got Beyonce’s ‘Ivy Park’ partnering with Topshop briefly back in 2016 and Rhianna’s ‘Fenty’ last May. But when it comes down to it, what really sets these pieces of clothing apart, other than a name on a label?

Personally I never usually buy into any of it. It’s just another ploy to suck us into the fast-fashion world when our interest starts to slip from an- other influencer’s greatest collab yet *rolls eyes*. So maybe I’m being a little harsh, maybe Be- yonce’s Ivy Park was new and tasteful and got the fans excited. Or possibly, these clothing collabs allow celebrities to venture into other industries they otherwise would have no opportunity to in another life. But when every Love Island winner that manages to capture the nation’s attention for 365 days until the next season hits our screens, collabs with any brand they can get their claws into just to have the chance to slap on ‘#Ad’ be- neath their insta posts gets kind of predictable and boring. I mean sure, each new collab might offer a new pattern, trend or style, but most of it is literally the EXACT same as every piece the site already sells -except with a less than thrilling countdown with various shots of the micro-celeb influencer posing in them. Do the influencers even like what they’re selling? Because most of it I can guarantee even they wouldn’t be seen dead in.

It seems society has become obsessed with becoming as close a fit to an influencer as possible, which everyone seems to believe is achieved through wearing clothes made out of cheap fabrics that a celeb most likely had no creative input apart from being presented designs they gave a yes or no to – a bit like Tinder but for clothing. The sadder side of this fact is that there are so many creative individuals out there pro- ducing incredible new lines that would shake the fashion world. But they’re stuck in the shadows of those who are currently being manufactured through reality TV shows or sporting a higher Instagram fol- lower counts.

The reality of today’s fashion industry isn’t a pretty one. Creative talent is useless if you don’t have a pretty face and someone to pap you for your social media along with it. And even then, you could get away with just the latter if you manage to be launched into fame through other means. Want to know how to produce a success- ful fashion line? Scrap your university Fashion or Art degree, you should be writing an application form for next season’s Love Island instead if you ever want a chance to get noticed in the fashion world apparently. Beauty Editor Ellie James shares her thoughts on the production of celebrity fashion lines Do influencers steal designers' thunder? It’s just another ploy to suck us into the fast-fashion world Do the influencers even like what they’re selling? Because most of it I can guarantee even they wouldn’t be seen dead in Image: @prettylittlething on Instagram

The student – often wearing flares, usually in a big puffa jacket, or faux fur coat. Doc marten style shoes often also part of the mix. As I walk around the town it is not hard to spot the students of Newcastle University. However with the daily life of lecture attendance comes the fatal problem of what one must do when one inevitably decides their wardrobe has become too basic, and the savings pot is looking a little too large.

I personally try and avoid shopping at high street brands, simply because their convenience results in your lovely new trousers being worn but an army of others, and in our modern age individuality is key. I therefore turned to ‘beyond retro’ and my love of the moment. A perhaps less known brand, stocking vintage styled clothing, a perfect fit for the ever back tracking fashion style today.

The brand offers a range offers a selection of different eras, such as 70s 80s and 90s, all with affordable clothing tailored to this particular era. So weather your feeling flares or vintage dresses there is something for everyone’s different style taste bud’s.

While the brand may not be Primark cheap, it is certainly priced reasonable for the items on sale, another reason to love their brand, as one thing I have found with the high street shops is their ability to increase their prices without people taking any notice.

Another element of the brand I find particularly noteworthy is the individuality that comes with purchasing any one of their garments, people around campus seem to rarely clash with any of the clothes I have brought from there over recent months. Something increasing hard to find as many people flock the shops for the sales currently on!

The brand also has such a range of clothing, and while it is an online shop is really is tailored to everyone’s needs, weather your looking for a cosy jumper, or a top to hit the toon with! Images:@beyondretro on Instagram

the courier 17 beauty life & style Monday 24 February 2020 courier.beauty@ncl.ac.uk Beauty Editors Rashida Campbell-Allen & Ellie James The Wired Urban Decay collection Nimra Rafique shares the new neon spring beauty releases W hether it’s fashion or beauty, we always seem to look back to the past for inspiration and this year is no acception. In fact, despite it only being February, the big 2020 trends are all about that vintage, nostalgic vibe. From the Brigitte Bardot curtain fringe, to the increased craze of blusher, it’s clear that past trends always have a way of rising again. Although the natural makeup look is a favourite in recent days, there’s no doubt that colour will never go out of style, and Urban Decay’s new limited edition Wired collection is giving us all those retro, 80s vibes we love. When thinking about Urban Decay the first thing that comes to mind are their popular Naked eyeshadow palettes, known particularly for their array of neutral, warm tones. On the other hand, Urban Decay also has a collection of colourful and bold products, from their much loved Heavy Metal glitter to their dazzling Moondust Palette. Their new limited edition Wired collection, however, takes it that step further, as it boasts vibrant electric neon colours. The collection includes the Wired Palette consisting of 10 bright pressed pigments, 4 Wired 24/7 Eye Pencils, 5 Wired Vice Lip Chemistry glossy lip tints, and 5 Wired Transforming Liner. On one hand, bright, bold colours can add a fun and exciting twist to your makeup look. Even using just one vibrant colour can take your look to the next level and make it look like a lot of thought went into your makeup. On the other hand however, such daring colours are not always wearable and can be difficult to create a look with. You don’t want to spend a steep £39 on an eyeshadow palette just for it to sit at the back of your draw, untouched. So, in my opinion, the Wired collection by Urban Decay might give you an instant buzz, with all the festival looks sparking your creative brain, but in reality you’ll probably only use these products once and never touch them again. But hey, this is coming from someone who wears the same one brown eyeshadow all the time. So each to their own. T he sincere answer is no. It has been a longbelieved myth that drinking gallons and gallons of water immediately means that clear skin is a result. And while drinking copious amounts of water could aid the journey to clear skin, it simply won’t just fix it.

Firstly, it is important to be aware of the fact that water is extremely hydrating. This means that water, if anything, will hydrate your skin. Now, just because your skin is hydrated, does not mean it will be clear. It is easier to reach the heights of clear skin with hydrated skin, but without the work and effort it takes (for most people) to get clear skin, it probably won’t happen.

It must also be made known that different skin types require different things. It is more a matter of sampling the products that work for your skin, and the products that do not. I’m sorry, but contrary to popular belief, washing your face with dish soap, being un-problematic and downing a gallon even three hours just might not cut it for your skin. Or maybe it does, and you’re doing a lot more than you should be doing to your skin without realising that your skin is actually sensitive and only responds well to regular soap, yet you wonder why your £400 skincare r o u t i n e plus your i m m e n s e w a t e r drinking isn’t doing much for your skin. Different things work for different people, and whether your oily, dry or combination, you need to play around to see what works for you.

There are many other lifestyle choices that could make or break your journey to good skin. Firstly, the effects of a poor diet on skin cannot be cancelled out by downing a gallon or two. Secondly, that pillowcase that you sleep on, when was the last time you washed it? Are you allergic to the fabric? Do you potentially have acne prone skin? Could you possibly be allergic to certain things in your makeup/ skincare products? Other factors could be stress, hormone changes, weight fluctuations etc. All of these are not null and void simply because you followed Brenda’s ‘drink four gallons of water a day’ challenge.

All in all, despite the fact that the myth has been busted over and over and again and water might not directly lead to clear skin, it is important to drink as much of it as you need to. Good skin cannot be obtained by a good skincare routine alone. Everything in combination such as a good skincare routine, good diet and exercise regimen, washed bed sheets, and of course, water, works together to (most likely, not in all cases) give you the clear skin you desire. Just keep striving, and keep experimenting with different products, and do not get discouraged if one skincare line does not work for you, because as said before, skincare is not a onesize-fits-all. Pixabay: Clker-free-vector-images Drinking water can help, but won’t simply fix, bad skin Watering down the myths of skincare Victoria Osho questions whether water is a myth or truth in the world of skincare

Instargram: @urbandecaycosmetics

On 2 January John Lewis & Partners became the first high street outlet to have permanently opened male beauty products to its stores and online. The concession is run by ‘War Paint For Men’, a brand founded by Daniel Gray in November 2018. The brand was developed by Gray to overcome body dysmorphic disorder, wherein one worries about their appearance regularly. He uses makeup to deal with his insecurities. He emphasises his brand is not about perfection, but of building selfconfidence through their appearance.

‘War Paint For Men’ was supported by two investors from BBC’s Dragon’s Den for £70,000, with a 12% share in the business. It was successfully tested in January on John Lewis’ Oxford Street store. The demand has exceeded 50% higher than the company’s expectations. This recent announcement raises questions about the male body image and cultural gender roles.

The concept of men wearing make-up is nothing new. It traces back from 3000BC onwards as men used plant-based products to paint their skin and fingernails. Ancient Celtics also painted their bodies in blue to represent ferocious fighters and was feared by Romans. In recent years makeup has been transformed by ordinary YouTube stars. James Charles started his own makeup tutorials at the age of 16, illustrating how to do complicated contoured looks and completely changing his appearance. Charles has accrued 16.7 'War Paint For Men’ offers a good beginning to challenging gender stereotypes

million subscribers and was the first male cover for CoverGirl. The increasing recognition of makeup in the LGBT+ Community expands further to makeover series such as Queer Eye and RuPaul’s Drag Race. In 2019, David Beckham wore a teal eyeshadow for the cover of Love Magazine. Make-up now is as a symbol for self and artistic expression by breaking gender boundaries and redefining societal standards of beauty.

‘War Paint For Men’ has encouraged the expansion of make-up to the male demographic. From the outset, the brand deconstructs the stigma surrounding make-up and masculinity that has lived throughout decades. Make-up was usually targeted for women and men who subverted such mindset were deemed flamboyant. In department stores, cosmetics were usually seen in women’s counters. This positioning reinforces binaries and signifies make-up as a feminine product. This historical shift suggests a demand for wider representation for gender fluidity within more products.

However, the binary is not fully denounced. The term ‘war paint’ conjures visions of armour, camouflage and strength. This encapsulates how make-up can be liberating, whilst simultaneously echoing traditional masculinity. The brand becomes ironic with its aim to give men some choice. It generates values that men ‘must’ aspire to be. The words ‘for men’ limits spaces for experimentation, liberated from any social constraints. ‘War Paint For Men’ offers a good beginning to challenging gender stereotypes. It highlights that men are also interested in beauty and skin care. It is an outstanding start to normalising male beauty products and enhancing positive self-image. By raising awareness on this topic, the rigid meaning of masculinity can be provoked, so the future generation do not have to face them.

life & style courier.travel@ncl.ac.uk Travel Editors: Amy Harris, Meggie Williams and Beth Robson travel 18 Become a worldwide yogi

We all need a refresh, and what better way than to take up yoga? If you're sick of trying to stretch out poses in a small box bedroom, or are completely uninspired by the four walls of your liv- ing room, why not add some of these fun yoga spots to your bucket lists! As we race through our busy university lives and battle bitterly cold winds from the North Sea, Hot Pod Yoga is the ultimate act of self love. If you are unfamiliar with the concept, yoga in the hot pod creates “an otherworldly cocoon of glowing lights, heady aromas and enveloping soundscapes, taking you a million miles from the every- day”. The 37-degree temperature eases your body quickly into the Vinyasa Flow yoga and the sense of exclusion from the outside world calms the mind. The instructor’s personality shine through each practice creating a happy, safe environment that instantly expels any newbie nerves or self-consciousness. I leave each practice a recharged and relaxed (albeit very sweaty) version of myself; ready to face the trials, tribulations and temperatures of every- day life once more. With a studio at the Northumberland Club in Jesmond and a free taster session available when you use the code 6ELSKS followed an introduction offer of 3 sessions for £15, treat yourself to a little self-care this February. EcoYoga, situated in the wildly beautiful scenery of the Scottish highlands, is an entirely off-grid yoga and sustainable eco living retreat. The retreat stands out for its understanding that one of the best things in life is a ‘good long soak, chin deep, in hot water’ and following this Japanese-style bathing philosophy the retreat is scattered with wooden hot tubs, an artisan sauna, natural spring water plunge pools, hot water riverside baths deep in the forest, wild swimming spots and rainforest showers. Hannah MacInnes summed up the experience perfectly, “looking up through the canopy of trees, hot water enveloping my tingling skin and rain drops plopping into the tub, I felt entirely at peace – the waterfall rushed loudly in my ears but my mind was quiet”. EcoYoga has an entirely optional policy meaning that each guest can do as much, or as little, yoga as they wish so you are entirely free to spend the day cozied up with a good book, wandering through the hills or simply prac- ticing yoga till your hearts content. The West Coast Algarve in Portu- gal is the perfect wellness escape for those craving some sun- shine, waves and yoga; all a stonesthrow throw from the UK. The West Coast Algarve is surprisingly wild, untouched and beauitful with dra- matic coastal cliffs, huge expanses of forests, rugged dirt tracks leading to secret beaches and quaint whitewash villages. Tourism in West Coast Algarve is predominantly geared t o w a r d s sun-seeking surfers which means there is an abundance of surf and yoga retreats, each I’m sure each exceptional in their own right. So if sunset yoga sounds like the per- fect way to ease your aching muscles after an adrenalinefueled day in the ocean, start searching sky scanner for that (one way?) ticket.

If you’re a yogi in search for a more far-flung adventure, add Rishikesh to your bucket list. Rishikesh is situated in Northern India; a val- ley nestled within the Himalayan foothills. Since the 1950s, the small town became an integral part of the “hippie trail” and attracted backpackers, The Beatles, ad- venturists and yogis alike, dubbing it the ‘yoga capital of the world’. Rishikesh is the epitome of Zen and my time there passed in a happy myriad of yoga classes, hopping between cushioned balcony cafes overlooking the bright blue Ganges, bath- ing in waterfalls, trekking in the moun- tains, writing, meditating, shopping in bustling street markers and nourish- ing my body with delicious healthy meals. From Ashrams to yoga teacher training to casual drop in lessons; you’re bound to find a yoga practice to match your desire. Rishikesh is actually very accessible from Delhi too, just hop on the direct train to Haridwar followed by a short tuk yuk drive then follow those carrying yoga mats. Algarve, Portugal Eco-Yoga - The Scottish Highlands Hot Pod Yoga - Newcastle Rishikesh, India Travel Editor Meggie Williams shares some of her favourite yoga spots from across the world

If you don’t know the story of Kim Matthews, who left her life of fast food and skateboarding behind to travel to the Austrian Alps in a plea to earn some cash and to deal with her mother’s death, you must have been living under a rock. It is the ultimate feel good winter film with the perfect mix of romance, comedy and to top it all off it’s filmed in the picturesque ski resort of St. Anton.

Whilst working in this affluent area of the Alps, in the chalet of dreams, to a mega rich businessman and his family, Kim still manages to become a slopestyle snowboard champion (despite never set- ting foot on snow before), throw house parties with fellow Chalet Girl Georgie and fall in love with the chalet owners’ very handsome son, Jonny (played by Gossip Girl’s Ed Westwick). Oh, and let’s not forget the generous tips from corporate guests, helicopter trips and being befriended by slopestyle prodigy Tara Dakides; Kim really does seem to have lucked out. Of course, the reality of being a Chalet Girl is not always quite how it appears in the movies; you would be pretty lucky to be working for Bill Nighy and Brooke Shields for starters. In fact, the truth of working in the Alps can be very far removed from the sugar-coated story you see on the big screen.

The Chalet Girl emerged in the 60s, offering rich property owners cheap cleaning and cooking services in exchange for a season long stay in the alps and generous tips from the guests. More recently it has emerged into a gap year experience for the stereotypical ‘posh’ girl; a convention portrayed in Chalet Girl through the character Georgie. Georgie, a seasoned chalet girl, is described by the actress Tamsin Egerton, as “a very privileged young girl who has had the good fortune to be able to go on skiing holidays from a young age.” But is this hap- py-go-lucky life that Geor- gie seems to live just a myth? If Kim, the stereotype defying Chalet Girl, can experience this then surely it is possible for everyone.

After speaking to Anna Ludnow, who worked as a Resort Manager in the Austrian Alps for over a decade, it is clear that an experience commonly looked at through rose-tinted glasses is not always as amazing as Chalet Girl leads us to believe. She tells me of the trials and tribulations that come with the job; and it’s not all as rosy as it would appear in filmdom. “For me, there were massive highs and lows. Something specifically bad is dealing with death in the resort, remember you are in your early 20s in a highpressure environment.” These tragic occurrences unfortunately come with working in the Alps, although in Chalet Girl, the most unfortunate thing which happened to Kim was hurting her wrist and being rejected by Jonny in favour of his American fiancé, Chloe. While Anna’s experiences at times were stressful, especially times where bad weather, cancelled flights and road closures lead to unhappy customers, Anna spoke about this making her “more independent and able to cope with the most stressful of situations.” Despite this Anna was quick to speak of the many positives of work- ing in ski resorts. “I made friends for life and got to ski loads”. The latter being one of the main enticements of the Alps’ hospitality industry, a justifier for the time spent hundreds of miles away from their families.

But is this main draw to the job really a draw? Chalet girl turned blogger Aoibhe Devlin spoke about the lack of skiing and the surplus of work involved in the job, and it’s a far cry from Kim and Georgie’s workload, as outlined in her blog post, ‘The Real Life of a Chalet Girl’.

“I have been working tirelessly six days per week, waking up at 6.30am every day and not finishing work some days until 10.30pm. Yes, we did get to snowboard during the day however only after we finished our four hour shift doing breakfast service for the guests and fully cleaning the chalet. After our few hours snowboarding, it was back home, in the shower and ready for evening service in the chalet.”

Aoibhe’s real-life run-through of the sheer workload involved is not something that is mirrored in the block- buster. Kim first arrived in the Alps expecting it to be on par with Aoibhe’s experience, something which Georgie was quick to correct her on. “This is the best job in the Alps. They use the place to entertain clients plus a few family weekends. Apart from that, they’re hardly ever here.” A situation that real-life chalet girls could only dream of. Maybe Georgie was right, her and Kim did have the best job in the Alps’, so before you start hastily applying for jobs, just remember it’s not all naked hot tubs and corporate clients. That is sadly a reality that only Kim and Georgie can live out. The truth of working in the Alps can be very far removed from the sugar-coated story The naked truth behind Chalet Girl Is working in the Alpsreally all naked hot tubs and corporate clients? Katie Partridge deliberates Image: Wikimedia Commons Image: publicdomainvectors.com

Image: IMDB

Occurring once every four years, 29 February is a compensation for the rounding down of the earth’s orbit around the sun. Julius Caesar in 45BC first introduced adding a day to February every four years. Without Leap Years, today would be 27 June 2021.

The solar year is approximately 365.24 days long, so there is not an even number of days, we therefore ignore that quarter of the day three times until it is inserted back into the year to make up for this.

A Leap Year is celebrated differently around the world and holds many superstitions both happy and harmful. A tradition that started in Ireland was that the woman can propose to the man only on a leap day. This is said to create a balance to the roles of men and women much like the balance that a leap year creates with the calendar. This is the same in many European countries. In some cases, If the man refused, he was supposed to pay a penalty, such as a gift or money, or in Denmark, 12 pairs of gloves for her to hide the embarrassment of not having an engagement ring.

On the contrary to luck and love, It is considered unlucky in Scotland to be born on a Leap day and unlucky in Greece to marry on a leap day. In Italy in the Roman times, February was associated with the dead, and a leap year was a prolongation of an already morbid month, instilling an aura of bad luck around 29 February to this day, many choose not to get engaged, have children, or buy houses at all on a leap year. The same goes for Russia, who associate leap years with freak weather and a higher risk of dying. In Taiwan, parents are thought to be more at risk of dying in a leap year and their daughters must bring pig trotter noodles to their parents to with them good health.

On the Texas-Mexico border in 1988, Mary Ann Brown and Birdie Lewis, both leap babies, asked for the introduction of a leap day festival in 1988. Anthony, Texas is now the ‘Leap Year Capital of the World’, with a four day long affair that has become global. This festival includes a guided trip to Aztec Caves and square dancing, among other things.

Many countries have a different calendar to our Gregorian model and so adjust their calendar differ- ently. In the Jewish calendar, months are based on the phases of the Moon. A new month begins on the day of the Crescent Moon after the New Moon phase. In a Jewish leap year, which corresponds to a frequency of every two or three years, an extra month is added called Adar, said to be a lucky and happy month. This Lunisolar-based leap month is also used in Hebrew, Chinese, Japanese, Tibetan, Mongolian, Buddhist, Hindu and many others cultures.

In any case, a leap day is a day of rarity. Whether it is the perfect time for a woman to propose or whether it is extremely unlucky to be born or get married on a leap year, it is significant. Some people write themselves a letter every February 29th to remind them of where they were four years earlier. So maybe attempt something you’ve never tried before or visit somewhere you wouldn’t usually go! Why not make it a tradition…