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FANTASTIC NEW LOOK ISSUE! A P R I L /M AY 2 0 21
LARRY FEIGN
On prose, piracy and indie-publishing
ISLAND IN BLOOM Discover Lantau’s native trees and shrubs
TAI O
THERE IS MORE TO HONG KONG’S OLDEST FISHING VILLAGE THAN JUST SHRIMP PASTE!
DAY TRIP! MAN MO TEMPLE PAK NGAN HEUNG
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Publishers in Lantau since 2002
- WHAT’S HAPPENING | ISLAND WIDE -
CONTENTS APRIL/MAY 2021
FEATURES 16
PERSONA
20
TAI O SUPPLEMENT Where to eat, sleep, shop and hangout
30
HOME CHEF
Cartoonist-turned-novelist Larry Feign
4
8
Easy-to-make crab, broccoli and chocolate soufflés
36
DESTINATION
Visit the Man Mo Temple, Pak Ngan Heung
REGULARS
16
30
4
LANTAU NEWS
What's happening island wide
8
OUT & ABOUT
14
GIVEAWAYS
15
LANTAU FACES
33
CLASSIFIEDS
34
LOCAL NUMBERS
Recent community events
Train at Fitness in Motion
Community snaps
ON THE COVER On the banks of Tai O River To read the cover story turn to page 20 Photo by Duey Tam WE ALSO PUBLISH TH
FR
5
YOUR GUIDE TO HONG KONG’S ‘GREEN JEWEL’
YE
RU
EE
AR
NN
IN G
2019 / 2020
20
FROM THE PUBLISHERS OF FOOD & DRINK • LIVING • PETS • SPORTS • PASTIMES • EDUCATION • HEALTH • BEAUTY • SERVICES • TRAVEL & EXCURSIONS • COMMUNITY
The well-being of our students is our top priority. We help students to develop their Character Strengths and Growth Mindset through engaging learning activities. MMES FEATURED PROGRAogramme
ng Pr • Cutting-Edge Codi udies Programme • Outdoor Nature St
A Lantau Private Primary School From Reception To Year 6 British Curriculum and Daily Mandarin Classes Please contact us to schedule a school visit T: +852 2984 0006 | E: office@silverminebayschool.edu.hk | www.silverminebayschool.edu.hk Units A & B, 1/F Silver Centre Building, 10 Mui Wo Ferry Pier Road, Mui Wo, Lantau Island, New Territories silverminebayschool EDB Reg No: 579009
- LANTAU NEWS | WHAT’S HAPPENING ISLAND WIDE -
A NEW WAY TO HIKE LANTAU
CONTACT US @ B AY M E D I A G R O U P LT D Flat 6E Elegance Court, Hillgrove Village, Discovery Bay, Lantau Island, Hong Kong P:
+852 2987 0167
E:
info@baymedia.com.hk
_ P H I L I P J AY Publisher RACHEL AINSLEY Managing editor rachel@baymedia.com.hk ELIZABETH JERABEK Assistant editor elizabeth@baymedia.com.hk SARAH MUIRHEAD Digital manager sarah@baymedia.com.hk DEBBY MEYERS Art director debby@baymedia.com.hk D U E Y TA M Graphic designer duey@baymedia.com.hk AMBER KAHU Operations manager amber@baymedia.com.hk
CON T RIBUTO RS R AY AU, E L I Z A B E T H K E R R , S A M A N T H A W O N G
P H OT OGRA PHERS RICHARD GORDAN www.richardgordonphotography.com TA L S H A H A R tal@magnificent-hkg.com D U E Y TA M duey@baymedia.com.hk
P RIN T & PRO DUCTI O N C H A M P I O N D E S I G N & P R O D U C T I O N CO. LT D Flat C & D, 9/F Sing Teck Factory Bldg, 44 Wong Chuk Hang Road, Hong Kong
Il lu s t r at io n by Debby Meyer s
ROUN D - T HE- L AN TAU ROUT E
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he Sustainable Lantau Office (SLO) has announced plans to develop a Round-the-Lantau Route by connecting existing hiking trails and building new ones. The 100-kilometre route will loop its way right around Lantau, connecting Sunny Bay, Tung Chung, Ngong Ping, Tai O, Shek Pik, Shui Hau, Cheung Sha, Pui O, Chi Ma Wan Peninsula and Mui Wo. By improving the network of hiking trails on Lantau, the SLO is looking to connect different attractions and locations – and create more options for recreation. “The office hopes Lantau can gather various ecological recreation programmes and become a great go-to vacation spot for the public,” SLO engineer Henry Lam Kwun-wang said. In addition, mountain-bike trail networks in Mui Wo and Chi Ma Wan are currently being expanded and a new practice ground for mountain bikes in Mui Wo is almost complete.
HELPING PATIENTS COMBAT COVID-19
C
OVID-19 confirmed patients, aged between 16 and 65, with mild or moderate clinical conditions, are now being admitted to the new North Lantau Hospital Hong Kong Infection Control Center (HKICC). There are six two-storey ward buildings with a total of 816 isolation beds at the centre; the first ward to open has 48 isolation beds. “The six independent blocks of ward buildings can be activated in phases according to the evolving epidemic situation,” a hospital spokesperson said. The centre is able to provide intravenous medication and oxygen therapy, which will help alleviate the pressure for isolation beds in public hospitals. The HKICC is the last of three dedicated projects put in place to help Hongkongers combat COVID-19. The other two – a mass testing programme and treatment facility at AsiaWorld-Expo – were completed in September and October 2020.
D ISC LAIMER The views expressed in Life on Lantau are not necessarily those of the publisher, editor or contributors. The publisher and editor cannot be held responsible for differences of opinion or statements published in good faith. The publisher, contributors, their employees and partners are not responsible for the results of any actions, errors or omissions taken on the basis of information contained in this publication and expressly disclaim all and any liability for any such action of any person. The mention of specific companies or products in articles or advertisements does not imply that they are endorsed or recommended by this magazine or its publisher in preference to others of a similar nature which are not mentioned or advertised. No part of this magazine may be reproduced in any form without permission. © BAY MEDIA GROUP LTD 2021
P hoto s co u r te s y o f hk sl i nk .c om
FIRS T WARD OPEN AT HK IC C
TALES OF THE CITY Re po r t i n g by El i z ab e t h J e r a be k P h oto s by M ar ti n a Yu & c o u r te s y o f A g gi e L am
T Dear Hong Kong seeks to increase social
he newly published non-profit ‘photo book’
awareness of diversity and inclusion through interviews with 80 talented Hongkongers from around the globe. Not surprisingly, perhaps, 11-year-old Lance Lau, the Tung Chung resident, who has been striking for climate change since September 2019, is one of the high-profile influencers featured.
People don’t realise it, but they are already being affected by climate change and not just in places far away, but also here at home in Hong Kong
Dear Hong Kong co-founders Oskar Valles and Aggie Lam note that, “Lance has the clarity to comprehend the magnitude of the [climate change] problem and act on it without hesitation. He exemplifies how age is just a number and proves that selflessness is what matters most.” The clean-ups Lance organises in and around Lantau are well attended by Hongkongers of all nationalities and ages. And there’s no doubt he’s getting the word out. “Lots of kids have reached out to ask how they can help raise awareness of climate change,” he says. “And we were surprised when some Filipino marine biologists introduced themselves and thanked me for organising the Tung Chung clean-ups because mangroves are really important marginal ecosystems.
E CO- W ARRI O R
Lance Lau in Tung Chung; Copy of Dear Hong Kong
“I really enjoy meeting likeminded people but I also enjoy those moments when I can inform and change someone’s mind,” Lance concludes. “People don’t realise it, but they are already being affected by climate change and not just in places far away, but also here at home in Hong Kong.” LIFE ON LANTAU | APRIL/MAY 2021
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- LANTAU NEWS | WHAT’S HAPPENING ISLAND WIDE -
ISLAND IN BLOOM Repor ting & p hotos by Paul M el so m
n spring and early summer, many of Lantau’s native trees and shrubs are in Iissue bloom, making it a wonderful time to walk the hills. Deforestation remains an in Lantau but these days more native trees are being planted – planting many species of native trees significantly enhances the biodiversity, reduces erosion and makes the hills more beautiful.
It’s easier to identify many native trees and plants when they are flowering. Here are six for you to recognise and enjoy on your walks.
Chestnut Oak
(Castanopsis fissa)
This tree stands out from afar in the forest canopy and it’s a sight to see in April because of its wonderful display of spiky, cream-coloured flowers.
Sweet Viburnum
(Viburnum odoratissimum)
Get up close to this plant in April to enjoy the sweet and distinctive fragrance that emanates from its conical cluster of small white flowers.
Formosa Ash
(Fraxinus griffithii)
This tree can only be found in Hong Kong growing naturally in Lantau. It blooms in April, when its fantastic cream feathers pierce the sky.
Rose Myrtle
(Rhodomyrtus tomentosa)
Climb 100 metres into the hills in May to appreciate the thousands of rose-pink flowers put forth by this very common but beautiful shrub.
Pond Spice (Litsea glutinosa)
In bloom from May, this tree has distinctive mustard-coloured flowers and produces blue/black berries which birds like to feed on in winter.
Microcos
(Microcos nervosa)
The locals call this tree ‘Rag Leaf’ because the leaves hang like rags from its branches. The small yellow flowers bloom in June.
Horticulturalist Paul Melsom of Eagleowl on Lantau (eagleowlonlantau1@gmail.com) is an expert in native tree landscape restoration; he takes student groups on local eco-walks, and teaches ecological gardening.
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LIFE ON LANTAU | APRIL/MAY 2021
- LANTAU NEWS | WHAT’S HAPPENING ISLAND WIDE -
TRACK OF TIME PHOTOBOOK
FITNESS IN MOTION
P hoto co u r te sy o f F i tne ss i n M o t i on
Photo c ou r te s y of Patr i c k Dr ans f ield Photo cour tesy of Pat r ic k Dr ans f i el d
PAT RIC K D RA NS F IELD
T HE FIT N ESS IN M O T ION T EAM
AChina on the cusp of change: Ham Tin resident
F martial arts, mobility and fitness classes out of its
trove of black-and-white photographs shows
Patrick Dransfield’s newly published Track of Time: Moments of Transition comprises over 60 original images taken on the streets of Beijing and Datong during the summer of 1986.
“In 1986, China was at a liminal moment,” Patrick says. “For those endless-seeming four months I took image after image, roll after roll of 120 film with my trusty Seagull camera (and no light metre), thus creating an archive of images of a time now long gone.” You can grab your copy of Track of Time: Moments of Transition for HK$399 at bookstores throughout Hong Kong – including VIBE Book and Music Shop in Mui Wo. Patrick is donating HK$20 for each book sold to children’s cancer research.
itness in Motion is now offering a full range of
brand-new studio in Tung Chung.
“Getting fit isn’t just about losing weight,” says founder Maxim Minin. “For most people, there’s a lot more to it than simply dropping pounds and many reasons beyond vanity why it might be important. We work with clients from all kinds of backgrounds, many of whom want to get fit because of health risks or to manage already existing conditions.” From April, Fitness in Motion has two new 30-day unlimited packages on offer, both for just HK$1,880. The Serenity Package includes unlimited access to all yoga, Pilates, dance, meditation and Muay Thai classes. The Ultimate Warrior Package includes unlimited access to all the classes in the fighting arts, such as Brazilian jiu-jitsu, capoeira and boxing. For the class schedule, visit www.fitnessinmotionhk.com.
MESSAGE IN A SHELL
I Debbie Bailey writes uplifting messages on upcycled scallop
n order to cultivate kindness in tough times, Tung Chung resident
shells (donated by local seafood vendors) and leaves them on the Lantau trails and across Hong Kong for people to find. Since she started her project in January last year, Debbie, an EQ Practitioner, who runs a boutique consulting company, has painted and placed out over 150 scallop shells, and she’s been joined by a network of likeminded friends. “We’ve also expanded to include local artists, and this gives them a platform to show their work,” Debbie says. “We have so far featured 22 artists, eight of whom are from Lantau.”
P hoto s co u r te sy o f D e bb i e B ai l ey
K IN D N ESS PROJEC T
Debbie posts shell locations on social media, and if you are lucky enough to find one, you can keep it or leave it for someone else to find. Just be sure to take a photo of the shell in its location – or take a selfie with it – and post it on Facebook or Instagram at Messageinashellhk.
LIFE ON LANTAU | APRIL/MAY 2021
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- OUT & ABOUT | RECENT COMMUNITY EVENTS -
CNY CHARITY FOOD DRIVE P hoto s by Duey Tam
South Lantau resident Jodi
Brooks organised a charity food drive on February 15 in front of Café Isara in Mui Wo. More than 40 bags of non-perishables and toiletries were donated to ImpactHK for distribution to Hong Kong’s homeless.
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LIFE ON LANTAU | APRIL/MAY 2021
- OUT & ABOUT | RECENT COMMUNITY EVENTS -
TIG WEEKEND MARKETS P h oto s c o u r te s y o f Tr e as u r e I s l an d Gr o u p
Given the success of its
winter weekend markets, Treasure Island has launched an ongoing series of Sunday markets; the next will be on April 25 at Treasure Island Beach Club, Pui O, from 11am to 5pm.
LUNAR FAIR TUNG CHUNG Photo s by C ol Sim ww w. co l si mph otogr aphy.com
Residents from across Lantau flocked to the Tung Chung Lunar New Year Fair at Tat Tung Road Garden, February 6 to 11, to stock up on flowers and potted plants with which to ring in the Year of Ox.
LIFE ON LANTAU | APRIL/MAY 2021
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- OUT & ABOUT | RECENT COMMUNITY EVENTS -
KARATE GRADING SESSION P hoto s by Ric har d G or don ww w. r i char dgor donph otogr aphy.com
Sensei Mark Tsang
Lingkwong of Okinawa Gojuryu Jundokan Karate (WhatsApp 6726 5005) held a belt grading examination for his students on March 7 at Tung Chung Sports Centre. While it’s not mandatory for students to go through the grading system, it’s a great way for both adults and children to have their progress recognised.
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LIFE ON LANTAU | APRIL/MAY 2021
- OUT & ABOUT | RECENT COMMUNITY EVENTS -
PADDLE CLUB OPEN DAYS P h oto s by Tal S h ah ar w w w. m agn i f i c e n t - h kg. c o m
South Lantau Paddle Club
hosted a series of Saturday morning open days in February and March. Lantau residents were invited to get out on the water to try their hand at dragon boating, stand-up paddle boarding and outrigger canoeing.
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LIFE ON LANTAU | APRIL/MAY 2021
Fitness & Martial Arts Studio Making PEOPLE Better
AND MANY MORE
Contact us TODAY to BOOK your first class
www.Fitnessinmotionhk.com @FitnessInMotionHK
+852 23902802
+852 97444736
Shop 105, T-Bay, Tung Chung, Lantau
- GIVEAWAYS -
FITNESS IN MOTION IS OFFERING ONE READER A FOUR-CLASS PACKAGE (worth HK$780) Located in Tung Chung, Fitness in Motion is a fitness and martial arts studio staffed with highly qualified instructors, trainers and coaches who can help you take your physical abilities to the next level.
HOW TO WIN! Life on Lantau prizes are incredibly easy to get your hands on, and you have until April 10 to apply. Simply scan the barcode, select the giveaway you want, and enter your details into the online form.
Whether you want to lose weight, get fit, benefit from increased strength and energy or try a new discipline, Fitness in Motion has you covered. Classes - in yoga, meditation, Pilates, Zumba, Bolyfit, Brazilian jiu-jitsu, mixed martial arts, capoeira, boxing, Muay Thai and more - are available from 6am to 10pm daily. To check the schedule, visit www.fitnessinmotionhk.com.
P h oto c o u r te s y o f F i tn e s s i n M o ti o n
CONGRATULATIONS TO LAST ISSUE’S WINNERS | Geoffrey Cheuk and Selene Lam both received a HK$250 voucher to spend at Cinnabon, Tung Chung
- LANTAU FACES -
COMMUNITY SNAPS FAMILIAR FACES FROM ACROSS LANTAU
P h oto s by Tal S h ah ar w w w. m agn i f i c e n t - h kg. c o m
LIFE ON LANTAU | APRIL/MAY 2021
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- WHAT’S HAPPENING | ISLAND WIDE -
L ARRY FE I GN At home in Mui Wo with The Flower Boat Girl
- PERSONA -
CHAMPIONING CHENG YAT SOU One-time cartoonist and freshly minted novelist LARRY FEIGN shines a light on Mui Wo’s murky past by celebrating the life of a notorious pirate queen Re po r ti ng by Elizab e t h Ker r P hoto s by Duey Tam
I
There’s no romanticising piracy like there is in the West, in Pirates of the Caribbean, so when you go back into the historical record there was no one writing these fairy tales. They’re just criminals
t’s been five years since Larry Feign was a press subject. In 2016, when I interviewed him for this very magazine, he was talking about retiring from cartooning for good (leaving The World of Lily Wong as his legacy) and he had just updated Aieeyaaa!, his satirical ‘dictionary’ which pokes fun at life, love and culture clash in Hong Kong and China. At the time, Larry was hinting at a dip into prose, and at the time he couldn’t talk about it. Now he can. The 30-year Wang Tong Village (Mui Wo) resident has just released his first novel for adult readers, one that will be of particular interest to Lantau residents, since much of the action takes place in early 19th century Tung Chung and Tai O. “The Flower Boat Girl is based on the true story of the infamous woman pirate Cheng Yat Sou,” Larry opens. “Sold by her father to a flower boat (floating brothel), the novel begins as she finally buys her freedom and is almost immediately kidnapped by pirates and forced into marriage with their leader. Over the following years, dragged through raids and a Vietnamese civil war, she survives by embedding herself into the dark business of piracy. Courted by powerful pirate leaders and pitted against her main rival, who happens to be her husband’s male concubine and her adopted son – Cheung Po Tsai – she faces a choice between two things: power or love.” Motivated by the fact that every account published about Cheng is both incomplete and rife with falsehoods, Larry devoted five years to researching her story, and he is likely the world’s leading expert on this brilliant and powerful woman. LIFE ON LANTAU | APRIL/MAY 2021
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- PERSONA -
BASED ON A TRUE STORY All in all, The Flower Boat Girl is the result of well over a decade’s worth of work; Larry started digging into Cheng’s story while working on something completely different in 2008, and started writing a few years after that. “The book started out as a straight biography, but it became a mission,” Larry explains. Almost immediately it became clear researching Cheng would be a challenge. Reports on her life often conflicted, if they existed at all (her husband Cheng I was more thoroughly documented). “There’s no romanticising piracy like there is in the West, in Pirates of the Caribbean, so when you go back into the historical record there was no one writing these fairy tales. They’re just criminals,” he says. Larry’s sources ranged from University of Macau professor Robert Antony and historian Dian Murray, to a particularly rich trio of accounts of a 1809 pirate scuffle, written by a Portuguese trader, a British naval officer and a Chinese bureaucrat – the latter colourfully translated into English by a German missionary. “If you triangulate these three sources the main facts are confirmed. But when you get deeper into the details and motivations you just can’t know what was true,” states Larry. As a history major, he knew where to dig though, and he lucked out with a firsthand account of Lantau piracy when he met an elderly woman while lost on a hike one day. She regaled Larry with stories of pirate raids in Mui Wo from her lifetime. “A lot of her account goes into what I wrote. 1930s Lantau wasn’t much different than it was 100 years before. That’s some of what was going on in the research. I was filling in gaps in the history through extrapolation. I opted for what was most plausible.” The sheer volume of detective work, extrapolation and finally imagination is what ultimately led Larry to fiction. Not that it was easy. “I’d never done anything like this. I’m a cartoonist,” Larry says, recalling that over a dozen drafts of the first version were dumped in favour of starting fresh. He’s fortunate he had a psychologist on hand (his wife Cathy) to ask about motivation, and he managed a spot at the Obras Foundation writer’s retreat in Portugal in autumn of 2018 for some valuable workshopping. 18
LIFE ON LANTAU | APRIL/MAY 2021
“When I started, every paragraph had a dadum, da-dum, da-dum rhythm,” Larry says. “That was the cartoonist in me. Everything in the first sentence had to be resolved by the last sentence. I realised I needed help, and some really brutal commentary from various mentors worked wonders.”
All my alter-egos have been women, like Lily Wong APPRECIATION NOT APPROPRIATION Larry’s satirical work has appeared in Time, The Economist, the New York Times, and other publications around the world. He now writes books full-time, including a best-selling children’s book series under the pen name MD Whalen. He has directed animated cartoons for Walt Disney Television and Cartoon Network. He is a MacDowell Fellow and three-time recipient of Amnesty International Human Rights Press Awards. Back in 2016 when Larry was working on The Flower Boat Girl, he was contemplating the newfound sense of identity that was sweeping Hong Kong. His first novel is just in time to catch that wave but, what with the current reckoning on race and race relations in many corners of the globe, it’s also likely to get caught in the appropriation and representational debate. Larry has been wrestling with issues of identity since he started his cartooning career with The Standard back in the 1980s. A resident of Hong Kong since 1985 and of Mui Wo since 1991, where he and Hong Kong-born Cathy raised two kids, the native Californian is releasing his historical fiction at a time when some would say he shouldn’t — and that he has no right. The question has to be asked: As a white man, who is Larry to write a novel about a Chinese woman? “I think I’ve earned my credentials. All my alter-egos have been women, like Lily Wong. Hong Kong people are more sophisticated than Americans,” Larry theorises.
C REA TI VE SPACE
Larry surrounded by his pens, books and inks
- PERSONA -
For Larry it comes down to the distinction between appropriation and appreciation, and he slots himself firmly into the latter category. “In 220 years, no one has written about this amazing woman. If no one else is going to then I will. What am I supposed to do? Throw away this wonderful story? I spent 13 years on this because the story took hold of me and I want to share it with the world.” And when it comes down to it, the story Larry is sharing with the world could not be more relevant or relatable. It’s the story of a real-life heroine who, against all odds, shapes history on her own terms. Like it says on the dust jacket, ‘Her father traded away her youth. Sea bandits stole her freedom. She has one way to get them back: Become the most powerful pirate in the world:’ The Flower Boat Girl is a celebration of girl power, regardless of the writer’s gender.
“I’ve been publishing my own books since 1991,” Larry explains. “Not because publishers reject me (in fact, I’ve turned down offers from fairly big publishers), but because I can do a better job of it and have full control of both art and commerce. Sales and promotion are a daily part-time job. Advertising, seeking reviews, blogging, and interacting with readers are all part of the job, some obviously great fun, others less so. But I’d rather be doing this job, working for myself, than anything else.” The Flower Boat Girl was released on March 15 in Hong Kong, with the official launch being held at VIBE Book and Music Shop in Mui Wo on April 3. Available at VIBE and Bookazine and most other English book retailers, it will be launched internationally in September.
BOOK LAUNCH IN MUI WO The final work clocked in long enough to break into two instalments (though readers can rest assured the first is a complete story in itself). And within this epic, there’s room for a third, loosely related entry. But for now, Larry’s focus is on The Flower Boat Girl – and the time-consuming business of indie-publishing.
M E MORABI LI A
Larry’s pirate ship is made by a real shipbuilder, the bronze bell is a souvenir from Myanmar
S T RE E T LI FE
Little Venice reimagined
- TAI O SUPPLEMENT -
TAI O
Exploring Lantau’s remote south-west corner P hoto s by Du ey Tam & D e bby Meye r s
T
ucked snugly away in the south-western corner of Lantau, Tai O is locked in the past. Having developed as a fishing harbour and saltern over the past 200 years, it is rich in history and local colour and, as one of the last bastions of Hong Kong heritage to survive territory-wide development, it’s a fantastic place to observe traditional village life. Fishermen still live in stilt houses, built above a matrix of waterways, and as recently as the 1960s, villagers caught 30% of all seafood sold in Hong Kong. While the fishing industry has dwindled, salted fish and shrimp paste vendors continue to eke out a living. There’s a lot more to Tai O, however, than the stilt houses of so-called Little Venice (featured on page 23). There are the wetlands, home to a resident herd of feral brown cows (featured on page 26), there are some terrific hikes to be had and then there’s the pink dolphin spotting. Avoid the local tour boat operators, who may not always have the dolphins’ best interests at heart, and instead book with eco-minded Hong Kong Dolphinwatch. Better yet, head to Fu Shan Viewing Point, just north of Little Venice, for a bird’s eye view. There are no malls or franchised business in Tai O. You get to interact with the local business owners, and their shops cater to both residents and tourists. Tai O ‘central’ – where you’ll find restaurants, shophouses and market stalls – lies in and around Kat Hing Street on the banks of Tai O River, just south of Little Venice. Be sure to get your fill of traditional Cantonese street food (find our top picks on page 24) as you explore this area.
LOC AL F L AVOU R Pretty pufferfish; Kumquats drying in the sun
Venture north-west, and on to the island’s end, and you immediately find yourself in the heart of the unspoilt, virtually uninhabited countryside. On your walk, you’ll spot Tseung Kwan Shek – the locals say this rock looks like a general taking a rest, hence the name: tseung kwan meaning general and shek meaning rock. At the end of the day, walk out on the ferry pier in front of the Tai O Heritage Hotel (featured on page 28) to enjoy the Lantau sunset at its very best. LIFE ON LANTAU | APRIL/MAY 2021
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AT A GLANCE
- TAI O SUPPLEMENT -
Il l u s tr ati o n by D e bb y M eyer s , P hoto s by Duey Tam
TSEUNG KWAN SHEK
TAI O HERITAGE HOTEL
LOCATION Tai O is partly located on an island just off the western edge of Lantau. The village name means ‘large inlet’ in Cantonese, since this is where Tai O Creek and Tai O River merge before joining the South China Sea. Two pedestrian bridges cross the river on its northern and western forks.
VILL AGE LIFE Village life is centred on the banks of Tai O River – that’s where you’ll find the stilt houses of Little Venice, the main ferry pier and bus terminus, and Kat Hing Street, which is home to a number of graded historic buildings including shophouses. Local stores, market stalls and restaurants line the maze of winding alleys leading off Kat Hing Street.
PUBLIC TRANSPORT From Tung Chung, you can either catch the New Lantau 11 Bus from Fu Tong Plaza at Tung Chung Town Centre (journey time one hour) or you can take a Fortune Ferry from Tung Chung New Development Pier (35 minutes). From Mui Wo, take the New Lantau 1 Bus – the trip takes about 55 minutes.
FISHI N G VILL AGE
Dried octopus; One of Tai O’s many street cats; Drying the shrimp paste
- TAI O SUPPLEMENT | STILT HOUSES - WHAT’S HAPPENING | ISLAND WIDE -
LITTLE VENICE Repo r ti ng by S am ant ha W o ng P hoto s by Du ey Tam & D ebby Meye r s
T
ai O is mostly inhabited by Tankas or boat people – a nomadic southern Chinese ethnic group who first settled there over two centuries ago, having previously lived on junks in the South China Sea. Though many now live onshore in stilt houses, some of the older ‘sea gypsies’ still live on their boats. People flock to Tai O, and the so-called ‘Little Venice,’ to soak up the maritime heritage and fishing lore. At the height of the salt production and fishing industry, Tai O was home to some 30,000 people. Today, the population has shrunk to less than 2,000 and a devastating fire in 2000 destroyed many – but not all – of the historic stilt houses. S T ILT HOUSES
Little Venice; View from Sun Ki Bridge
LIFE ON LANTAU | APRIL/MAY 2021
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- TAI O SUPPLEMENT -
Street Food Repor t i n g by Elizabe t h Jer abek Ph otos by Jesse Pyeatt
A
s one of the city’s most popular day-trip destinations, Tai O is as big on street food as it is on scenic views. You don’t have to venture far from the main village, near the ferry pier and bus terminus, to find hawker stalls aplenty. In the mood for fish balls? Head to Fuk Hing Hong on Wing On Street. Fancy a charcoal-grilled seafood skewer? They’re a speciality (oyster, scallop, squid or shrimp) at Tai O Store just a few stalls down. Tai O is, of course, famed for its shrimp paste, traditionally made from nocturnally caught silver shrimp, which is salted, fermented and dried in the sun. To get your head around shrimp paste’s distinctive umami flavour, make your way to Cheung Choi Kee on Kat Hing Street and pick up a roti-wrapped ‘husband roll’ – the minced pork inside is packed with it. To indulge your sweet tooth, look no further than Tai O Egg Waffle Uncle on Tai O Market Street. ‘Uncle’ churns out eggpuff waffles over an ancient charcoal stove, and he knows exactly when to spin the griddle to produce an evenly cooked waffle with a subtle vanilla flavour – similar to that of an ice cream cone but with a softer, chewier texture. While in Tai O, you’ll also want to follow your nose – and the aroma of freshly fried doughnuts – to Tai O Bakery on Kat Hing Street. In business for over 30 years, this stall is famous for its sa yong – deep-fried puffs of sweet dough that are rolled in sugar while still piping hot. Hou sik!
G O - T O HA W KE R S TAL L S
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LIFE ON LANTAU
Fuk Hing Hong for fish balls; Cheung Choi Kee’s shrimp paste-flavoured husband rolls; Tai O Egg Waffle Uncle; Tai O Bakery’s hot sugar doughnuts
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HOW NOW BROWN COW? Repor t i n g by Elizabe t h Jer abe k Ph otos by D uey Tam
H
op in,” Kathy Dixon says with a twinkle in her eye. She has just arrived at the Tai O bus terminus and is excited to show us the local herd of feral cows that she spotted on her drive over from Shui Hau to meet us. It’s immediately clear that Kathy has a deep personal connection to this particular herd of cows as she greets each one individually by name and checks to see if any need a check-up from the Agricultural, Fisheries and Conservation Department (AFCD). But she wants to make it clear that she did not put out the bales of hay near Lin Yan Monastery. Out of concern for a lack of natural foraging during the winter dry season, the Lantau Buffalo Association periodically distributes bales of hay amongst the herds of more than 200 feral cows and buffalo that live on Lantau. Kathy shakes her head and affectionately scolds the cows for gorging on the hay as she asks mischievously, “I don’t think they look like they’re starving. Do you?”
C OM M UN I T Y C ATTL E GRO U P
Kathy Dixon is chair of the TOCCG; Lantau’s cows are ours to protect; The feral herd that roams Tai O
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LIFE ON LANTAU | APRIL/MAY 2021
As the chairperson for the Tai O Community Cattle Group (TOCCG), a registered Hong Kong charity since 2019, Kathy’s priority is to protect the welfare of Lantau’s cows as wild animals. “They’re not pets and they can take care of themselves, as they have been doing for many, many years,” says Kathy. “We – as people – are their biggest threat.
- TAI O SUPPLEMENT -
I named him Kei Zik, which is the Cantonese word for miracle “That’s why the TOCCG has worked so hard to educate the public about not feeding or getting close to the cows. First of all, they have a very specific diet – they can’t eat ‘people food’ as it makes them sick. Second of all, when you feed them then you train them to come into villages and near roadways looking for food. It’s better to treat – and respect them – as wild animals and protect their habitat so they can forage naturally.” Lantau’s herds of feral brown cows and Asian water buffalo are descended from draft animals that rice farmers used in the early 20th century to plough rice fields. By the 1970s, as the agricultural industry declined and rice fields made way for roads and residential development, most of the brown cows and water buffalo were abandoned and left to roam wild. “We lose a few animals every year to car accidents due to an increase in traffic – especially speeding,” says Kathy. “More and more visitors come by car, especially during the weekends and holidays. Although the roads have a 50-kilometre speed limit, it is rarely followed. Vehicles should always slow for cattle on the roads, and give them lots of room. Don’t scare or frighten them by honking your horn or revving your engine.” Another threat is the loss of habitat from development. “In every local village, a balance must be struck between the villagers and the cows, regarding cleanliness, boundaries and
respect for animals. But the cows have lost forest area, so we must ensure they are safe as they have been pushed onto the road more often to graze in new areas,” says Kathy. “The cows and buffalo have different needs when it comes to habitat. Buffalo prefer marsh areas. Cows like to roam into the mountains.” The cows – in particular this herd that roams in and around Tai O – are a big reason why Kathy fell in love with Lantau life when she moved here in 2012. She was even lucky enough to find a rare young calf (the majority of the feral cows and buffalo have been desexed by the AFCD in order to manage the size of the herds) five years ago in her backyard. “I named him Kei Zik, which is the Cantonese word for miracle,” says Kathy. “The cows are so resilient when it comes to adapting to development issues. The members of TOCCG appreciate their beauty and the family bonds within the herds. It’s important to keep them safe.”
If you see a cow or buffalo that has been injured or looks like it needs care, you can call the police or the TOCCG hotline at 5181 4406 so that the AFCD can follow up. To learn more about the TOCCG and make a donation, head to its Facebook page – WhereIsMelvin. LIFE ON LANTAU | APRIL/MAY 2021
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- TAI O SUPPLEMENT -
Preserving the Past Repo r t i n g by S am ant h a Won g P h oto s by D u ey Tam
P
erched high on a lush hillside in the far north-west, Tai O Heritage Hotel gazes out proudly across the South China Sea. The nine-room property, previously the 1902-built Tai O Marine Police Station, is managed as a non-profit social enterprise, with the aim being to preserve its heritage and help promote Tai O’s famous landmarks and traditions. “Tai O Heritage Hotel has been meticulously restored and refurbished to maintain its late 19th-century character and historical details, such as the cannons, searchlight, corner turrets, dry goods store and cells distinctive to the former police station,” says hotel manager Karl Law. “We hope guests will be able to visualise the beautiful colonial architecture of the olden days and at the same time experience elements of the still thriving fishing village.” Originally established as a garrison to combat pirates in the neighbouring waters, the property was restored by the Hong Kong Heritage Conservation Foundation in 2009 and listed as a Grade II historic building by the Antiquities Advisory Board in 2010.
TAI O H E RITAGE HO T E L The Raffleseque entrance; Old colonial arches; Tai O Lookout; Sunset at the pier
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Every effort has been made to minimise the impact of renovation on the existing structure, which consists primarily of three sections – a two-storey main building, a two-storey outhouse and a onestorey extension added in the 1960s.
Classically understated colonial features include the arched façade, Chinese tiled roof, wooden casement windows, granite steps, French windows, fireplaces, and connecting bridge between the main building and the ‘outhouse.’ The nine colonial-style guestrooms overlook the sea. Tied in closely with the history of the old police station and the fishing village, all rooms and suites are named after local attractions or Hong Kong Marine Police Force ranks and vessels. Likewise, Tai O Lookout, the glass-roofed restaurant situated on the first floor of the hotel, is named after the guard tower where the marine police grouped to monitor pirate activities. Surrounded by greenery, with breathtaking sea views, it features the colonial wood-carved furniture previously belonging to China Tee Club, and it serves as a platform to showcase locally created art pieces. You can book a tour of the hotel (www.taioheritagehotel.com) and it’s well worth doing. You’ll be treated to the story of a rogue Indian police constable, Teja Singh, who killed his commanding officer Cecil Glendinning, and held his wife and child hostage there in 1918. The ghosts of Singh and Glendinning are said to haunt the hotel to this day. Should you stay the night, don’t be surprised if you’re woken by the sound of Glendinning’s bagpipes.
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ALL PUFFED UP! Springy oozy soufflés are easier to make than you think – follow these instructions to the letter and you won’t go wrong
CRAB SOUFFLÉ Serves 4
1½oz butter 1½oz flour 145ml single cream 145ml milk 1tbsp onion, grated 2tbsp parmesan cheese, grated ½tsp dry mustard powder 3tbsp parsley, chopped 1½tsp anchovy essence 2tsp lemon juice Cayenne pepper to taste 5 egg yolks 8oz cooked crabmeat 6 egg whites Place a baking sheet in the oven and preheat to 200ºC. Melt the butter in a saucepan and stir in the flour, cook for 2 minutes. Add the cream and milk a little at a time, stirring after each addition. Bring to the boil and, still stirring, simmer for a minute or two. Remove from the heat and stir in the rest of the ingredients except for the crabmeat and egg whites. Next add the crabmeat, and season well. Whisk the egg whites until stiff. Fold 1 tablespoon of egg white into the crab mixture with a metal spoon, then fold in the rest, a quarter at a time. Then, pour the mixture into a buttered 4-pint soufflé dish, and place the dish on the preheated baking sheet. Bake for 45 to 50 minutes – if the soufflé is getting too brown after 30 minutes, cover it with foil.
Photos c o u r te s y o f A do be S t o c k
LIFE ON LANTAU | APRIL/MAY 2021
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CHOCOL ATE RUM SOUFFLÉ Serves 4
4oz plain chocolate 2tbsp rum 4 egg yolks 6 large egg whites Place a baking sheet in the oven and preheat to 200ºC. Break the chocolate into a mixing bowl and add the rum. Place the bowl over a saucepan of water that has just boiled. Once the chocolate is soft, beat with a wooden spoon until smooth.
BROCCOLI SOUFFLÉ Serves 4
1lb broccoli 1oz butter 2tbsp plain flour 145ml milk 2oz cheddar cheese, grated ¼ whole nutmeg, grated Cayenne pepper to taste 4 large eggs 1tbsp parmesan cheese, grated Place a large roasting tin, filled with 1½ inches of water, in the oven and preheat to 200ºC. Place the broccoli in a saucepan with 175 millilitres of boiling water. Cover and simmer for 15 minutes, until soft. Drain, then mash to a pulp with a large fork. Melt the butter in a saucepan and stir in the flour, when it’s smooth gradually add the milk, stirring after each addition, to form a paste. Turn down the heat and mix in the cheddar. Combine the cheese mixture with the broccoli pulp, season, and add the nutmeg and cayenne. Separate the eggs, then mix the 2 yolks into the broccoli. Whisk the 4 egg whites until they stand up in peaks; fold 1 tablespoon of egg white into the broccoli mixture with a metal spoon, then fold in the rest, a quarter at a time. Spoon the mixture into a buttered 2-pint soufflé dish and sprinkle with parmesan. Place the dish in the preheated roasting tin and bake for 30 to 35 minutes until risen and golden.
In a small basin, whisk the egg yolks and stir into the chocolate. In another bowl, whisk the egg whites until stiff. Fold 1 tablespoon of egg white into the chocolate mixture with a metal spoon, then fold in the rest, a quarter at a time. Pour into a buttered 2-pint soufflé dish and bake on the preheated baking sheet for 20 minutes, until the soufflé is springy to the touch.
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LOCAL NUMBERS TUNG CHUNG COMMUNITY SERVICES Tung Chung Man Tung Road Sports Centre Tung Chung Public Library Tung Chung Public Swimming Pool
2109 2421 2109 3011 2109 9107
EDUCATION Christian & Missionary Alliance Church Education Centre Discovery Mind Play Centre & Kindergarten Discovery Mind Primary School Greenfield International Kindergarten Han Xuan Language Education Centre Salala Kids’ House Soundwaves English Education Centre Sun Island Education Foundation Sunshine House International Preschool Tung Chung Catholic School YMCA of Hong Kong Christian College
3141 7319 2987 8070 2915 0666 2162 5538 2666 5905 2611 9193 2164 7210 2420 1068 2109 3873 2121 0884 2988 8123
ELECTRONIC REPAIRS So Nice Technologies (Onkar Singh)
6206 3497
EMERGENCY - FIRE/POLICE/AMBULANCE - 999 North Lantau Hospital Tung Chung Ambulance Depot Tung Chung Fire Station Tung Chung Police Station
3467 7000 2988 8282 2988 1898 3661 1694
FOOD & RESTAURANTS A Tavola Bar & Grill Curry Lounge Essence, Novotel Handi Indian Restaurant McDonald’s Delivery Melody Thai Moccato Coffee Shop My Thai Olea, Novotel Pizza Hut Delivery Resto Restaurant Velocity Bar and Grill, Hong Kong SkyCity Marriott
2321 5500 2960 1977 3602 8808 2988 8674 2338 2338 2988 8129 3602 8838 2907 6918 3602 8818 2330 0000 2886 3156 3969 1888
HEALTH & WELLBEING Freedas Max Beauty Spa OM Spa, Regal Airport Hotel Quan Spa, Hong Kong SkyCity Marriott Rainbow Voice and Sound Healing Spa by MTM Tung Chung Nail Ninjas
3483 8356 2162 5752 2286 6266 3969 2188 5178 5658 2923 6060 9551 6468
HOME REPAIRS & DESIGN New Look Design Mega Power Engineering/Locksmiths Mr Chan 24-Hour Handyman Shun Yu Engineering
9783 5840 2109 2330 9343 3718 2988 1488
HOTELS Novotel Citygate Hong Kong SkyCity Marriott Hotel Regal Airport Hotel
3602 8888 3969 1888 2286 8888
KIDS 4 Dimensions+ (Dance, Gym, Drama, Art) Clement Art School
9446 6013 9021 1502
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LIFE ON LANTAU | APRIL/MAY 2021
Jumping Castles Kidznjoy Little Stars Playgroup Sakura Kids Soundwaves
MEDICAL Bayside Dental Essential Health Family Clinic Human Health Medical Centre Maternal & Child Health Centre North Lantau Hospital Quality HealthCare Medical Quality HealthCare Physiotherapy Raffles Medical Raffles Medical Emergency Skyline Physiotherapy
9662 1747 6273 7347 6479 0390 6674 6194 2164 7210 2185 6550 2109 9396 2109 2288 3575 8370 3467 7000 2403 6623 2403 6328 2261 2626 2261 0999 2194 4038
REAL ESTATE HomeSolutions
3483 5003
REMOVALS & RELOCATIONS Akash Removals FTC Relocations ReloSmart SwiftRelo
2421 8088 2814 1658 2561 3030 2363 4008
RESIDENTIAL ESTATE CONTACTS Caribbean Coast Clubhouse Caribbean Coast Management Office Coastal Skyline Clubhouse Coastal Skyline Management Office Seaview Crescent Clubhouse Seaview Crescent Management Office Tung Chung Crescent Clubhouse Tung Chung Crescent Management Office
2109 9277 2109 9288 2179 6678 2179 6621 3473 8700 3473 8833 2403 6770 2109 1222
SPORT & RECREATION Aqua Gym Asia Pacific Soccer Schools Canterano Futbol Club Dance for Joy Edge ’n Pointe Dance Centre ESF Sports HK Dragons Kinder Kicks Soccer KipMovin La Cantera Perun Fitness Rugbytots Sparrow Soccer School Hong Kong Tung Chung Rugby Club
2914 0658 2385 9677 5611 2490 9264 8597 6688 2167 2711 1280 2987 4274 2385 9677 6180 3256 2557 8007 6443 6597 5307 6677 6051 8196 6079 0825
USEFUL NUMBERS Alcoholics Anonymous Arrow Accounting Services FTC Apparel Phoenix Wills
9073 6922 6201 9710 2428 2566 3100 0101
VETERINARY & PET SITTING SERVICES Bon’s Mobile Pet Grooming Royal Pets (Pet Sitting) Tung Chung Animal Clinic Tung Chung Vet Centre
9099 9959 6314 9887 2988 1534 2328 7282
SOUTH LANTAU
DISCOVERY BAY
ART & CULTURE Flanhardt Galerie und Atelier (FGUA)
2882 3390
EDUCATION Ashville International Kindergarten & Nursery Buddhist Fat Ho College Lantau International Kindergarten Lantau International School Lao Shi Lantau Mandarin Lessons Little Lantau Montessori Kindergarten Mindfulness Matters Mui Wo Language Cafe Silvermine Bay School
2109 9886 2985 5365 2984 0302 2980 3676 5197 4647 3689 6709 9048 5425 5511 6107 2984 0006
FOOD, BEVERAGES & RESTAURANTS Bahçe Turkish Restaurant Bathers Beach House Cafe Isara Caffe Paradiso China Bear Deer Horn Restaurant & Bar Kebab Korner Lantau Grocer Lantana Italian Bistro Le Jardin de Sophie Loi Chan Frozen Meat Co. Long Island Mucho Gusto Natural Plus Robert’s Market Solo Café The Gallery The Kitchen The Stoep @ High Tide The Water Buffalo Value Vigilantes Treasure Island Restaurant
2984 0222 2504 4788 2470 1966 2984 0498 2984 9720 3484 3095 6429 3507 2702 0050 5465 5511 2997 9070 2984 8346 2320 2001 6422 5009 2984 2233 9193 2937 9153 7453 2980 2582 5991 6292 2980 2699 2109 3331 6132 9120 5236 7013
HEALTH & BEAUTY Greenstyle Organic & Healthcare Pause by the Banyan Spa Ambiance Spa Puretouch Thai Palin Thai Sa Baai
9802 0553 9708 0187 2984 2488 2984 0088 9062 0148 5228 6552
HOME REPAIRS & DESIGN New Look Design Unitek
9783 5840 9156 0360
HOTELS Silvermine Beach Resort Tai O Heritage Hotel
6810 0111 2985 8383
REAL ESTATE HomeSolutions Findley Leung
3483 5003 2984 8334
RETAIL Inside Quay House VIBE Book & Music Shop
2890 8606 2882 8710 9088 2370
SPORT & RECREATION Lantau Base Camp Long Coast Seasports Pause by the River Treasure Island Group
5463 6060 2980 3222 9708 0187 2546 3543
TRANSPORT New Lantau Bus Company
2984 9848
USEFUL NUMBERS Alcoholics Anonymous Phoenix Wills
VETERINARY SERVICES SPCA Mui Wo
9073 6922 6108 8471 2984 0060
COMMUNITY Club Siena DB Fire & Ambulance DB Marina Club DB Management DB Recreation Club
2987 7382 2987 7502 2987 9591 2238 3601 2987 7381
EDUCATION DBIS Kindergarten DBIS Primary School Discovery College Discovery Mind International Play Centre Discovery Mind Kindergarten Discovery Mind Primary School Discovery Montessori Academy Discovery Montessori School Epic Adventurers Eye Level Education Learning Centre Lingostars HK Mandarin for Munchkins Mathemagic (home tutoring) Mathnasium SKH Wei Lun Primary School Sunshine House International Preschool Zhi Zhi Chinese
2914 2142 2987 7331 3969 1000 2987 8088 2987 8088 2914 2202 2812 9206 2987 1201 2441 0098 9366 0000 6375 2015 2480 3909 9135 4724 2628 3362 2987 8608 2987 8143 9648 2966
FOOD & RESTAURANTS 22˚ North Coyote Mexican Cantina Epic Foods Hemingway’s McSorley’s Ale House The Pier Bar Uncle Russ
2987 2298 2987 2848 2172 6111 2987 8855 2987 8280 2520 2166 2840 1188
HEALTH & BEAUTY Afflatus Hair Workshop Maximum Care Nailed It!
2987 0283 2987 2060 2987 2266
MEDICAL Bayside Dental Practice DB Medical Centre Health and Care Dental Clinic Island Health Quality Health Physiotherapy
2987 0855 2987 5633 2666 6183 2987 7575 2473 6200
PROPERTY LISTINGS & BOATS Headland Homes Okay.com Savills Hong Kong
2987 2088 2102 0888 2987 1919
RETAIL Bookazine P-Solution Wing On Star Mart
2987 1373 2987 1777 2987 9268 2366 6534
SPORT & RECREATION DB Pirates Greenwich Yoga School HK Dragons Football Club Harry Wright International Island Dance Kapuhala Train-in-Space Yoga Bay Yoga Up
9255 6133 9 685 8366 5322 5556 2575 6279 2987 1571 6101 8434 6704 9851 6805 4996
TRANSPORT Passenger Telephone Hotline
2987 0208
USEFUL NUMBERS Alcoholics Anonymous Auberge Discovery Bay Island Veterinary Services
9073 6922 2295 8288 2987 9003
- DESTINATION -
MAN MO TEMPLE, PAK NGAN HEUNG Repo r ti ng by Ra y A u P h oto s by Du ey Tam
B uilt over 400 years ago in the reign of Shen Zong of the Ming Dynasty
(1573-1620), the Man Mo Temple in Pak Ngan Heung is the oldest temple in Mui Wo, and well worth a look. It remains a thriving religious hub for the worship of not one but two deities: Man Tai (Man Cheong), the ‘civil’ God of Literature; and Mo Tai (Kwan Tai), the ‘martial’ God of War. Hence the name, Man Mo. Renovated in 1901 and again in 1960, the temple’s original appearance has been completely preserved, meaning it hasn’t lost an ounce of authenticity. Though tiny and unassuming, it’s clearly well cared for, with a lanternhung, vibrantly painted exterior. In the shadowy room within, large incense coils burn nonstop. The incense carries prayers and wishes to heaven – to Man Tai and Mo Tai. At face value, it’s not easy to see why the civil God of Literature and the martial God of War sit well together. But what we’re looking at here is a totally Taoist harmonising of apparent opposites – between the ‘intelligentsia,’ who dream up a society and the ‘warriors,’ who step up to protect it.
TAOIS T T EM P L E Thriving religious hub; Man Tai, the God of Literature; Mo Tai, the God of War
Needless to say, believers flock to a Man Mo Temple for many different reasons. The two gods were popularly sought out by scholars and students in the Ming and Qing dynasties, who were looking to succeed in their studies or in the civil service, and nowadays people still believe that Man Tai and Mo Tai can bestow career success on their followers. Working together, the thinker (Man Tai) and the fighter (Mo Tai) can help you get the result you seek. Besides being a place of worship, a Man Mo Temple was traditionally used as a court of sorts – a place where people could calmly settle their disputes, again guided by the intelligence of Man Tai and the strength of Mo Tai. Individuals and community groups continue to meet at temple to resolve arguments to this day.
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LIFE ON LANTAU | APRIL/MAY 2021
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Origami Santas and parols to make at home Brownie Guides doing a good turn every day Eco-friendly Xmas tips from Plastic Free Seas Shout out to the Cathay Dragon community
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HOME FOR THE HOLIDAYS: WHERE TO EAT, DRINK, SHOP AND HANG OUT
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HIKING THE SOUTH LANTAU COUNTRY TRAIL
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