June/ July 2020
MEET OUR NEW
PUBLISHER PHILIP JAY
A JUNGLE JAUNT NORTH OF NGONG PING SUMMER CAMPS TO MAKE YOUR CHILD’S YEAR FANTASTIC LANTAU BEACHES (AND WHERE TO FIND THEM) PLUS… GOOD THINGS THAT HAVE COME OUT OF THE COVID-19 LOCKDOWN
WIN!
An olive-wood bread dish from Zeitouna Olive Oil and a mystery six-pack from Rotten Head Craft Beer Delivery
NEWS & EVENTS * PRIZES * COMMUNITY SNAPS * CLASSIFIEDS
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CONTENTS FEATURES
June/ July 2020
08 PERSONA Our new publisher Philip Jay discusses the importance of community news and his plans to expand Life on Lantau
12 EDUCATION How to choose a summer camp that will wow your kids – and keep them busy
14 DISPATCH From Pui O to Shui Hau: Your guide to South Lantau’s best beaches
19 WALKABOUT Take a hike round the mountains from Ngong Ping to Pak Kung Au
32 MOMENTS A Small Band of Men: An Englishman’s Adventures in Hong Kong’s Marine Police by Les Bird
19
The Big Buddha, Po Lin Monastery and Lantau Peak/ Jason Pagliari
REGULARS
04 LANTAU NEWS
22 HOME CHEF
29 CLASSIFIEDS
11 GIVEAWAYS
24 OUT & ABOUT
30 LOCAL NUMBERS
ON THE COVER
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Photo by Duey Tam
YOUR GUIDE TO HONG KONG’S ‘GREEN JEWEL’
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To read the cover story, turn to page 8
We also publish 5
Philip Jay in Tung Chung
If you have a story idea, email rachel@baymedia.com.hk To publicise a local event, email elizabeth@baymedia.com.hk For general enquiries, email info@baymedia.com.hk
Embark on a culinary adventure with DB food blogger Catrin Price
2019 / 2020
Is homeschool the new normal? What the ADB gals
did in lockdown
Raw veggie dishes
For the latest Life on Lantau updates and www.lifeonlantau.com
to satisfy your inner vegan
FROM THE PUBLISHERS OF NEWS & EVENTS * PRIZES * COMMUNITY SNAPS * CLASSIFIEDS
Join your community online at www.arounddb.com
JUNE 2020
FOOD & DRINK • LIVING • PETS • SPORTS • PASTIMES • EDUCATION • HEALTH • BEAUTY • SERVICES • TRAVEL & EXCURSIONS • COMMUNITY
WHAT’S BEEN HAPPENING ISLAND WIDE
PUBLISHER Philip Jay MANAGING EDITOR Rachel Ainsley rachel@baymedia.com.hk PRODUCTION COORDINATOR Elizabeth Jerabek elizabeth@baymedia.com.hk DIGITAL MANAGER Jan Yumul jan@baymedia.com.hk ART DIRECTION Terry Chow terry@baymedia.com.hk
SPOTTING RAINBOWS
GRAPHIC DESIGNER Duey Tam duey@baymedia.com.hk
PHOTOGRAPHERS Terry Chow terry@baymedia.com.hk Duey Tam duey@baymedia.com.hk CONTRIBUTORS Elizabeth Kerr Jason Pagliari Les Bird PRINTING Champion Design & Production Co. Ltd Flat C & D 9/F Sing Teck Factory Bldg 44 Wong Chuk Hang Rd Hong Kong BAY MEDIA LTD 12D Elegance Court Hillgrove Village Discovery Bay Lantau Island Hong Kong 2987 0577 Advertising enquiries: info@baymedia.com.hk DISCLAIMER The views expressed in Life on Lantau are not necessarily those of the publisher, editor or contributors. The publisher and editor cannot be held responsible for differences of opinion or statements published in good faith. The publisher, contributors, their employees and partners are not responsible for the results of any actions, errors or omissions taken on the basis of information contained in this publication and expressly disclaim all and any liability for any such action of any person. The mention of specific companies or products in articles or advertisements does not imply that they are endorsed or recommended by this magazine or its publisher in preference to others of a similar nature which are not mentioned or advertised. No part of this magazine may be reproduced in any form without permission.
© BAY MEDIA GROUP LTD
Photos courtesy of www.arkedenonlantau.org, plasticfreeseas.org, www.rottenheadfest.com & unsplash.com
OPERATIONS MANAGER Amber Kahu amber@baymedia.com.hk
Kids have been spotting rainbows all over Lantau! The global Rainbows for Hope initiative started as a way to keep kids active and entertained during the COVID-19 crisis, while providing a way for communities to feel united by a shared activity. In addition to making and hanging rainbows in their own windows, children ‘hunted’ for these messages of hope, keeping count of them as they took their daily walks. This one’s definitely a keeper!
POSTCARDS FOR A PLASTIC FREE WORLD Created by local design house Paper-Roses, Plastic Free Seas’ (PFS) Postcards for a Plastic Free World highlight Hong Kong’s marine plastic problem, while helping us connect with friends and family near and far. Paper-Roses is donating a portion of the sale of each set of three postcards to support the PFS education programme in Hong Kong schools. To pick up your postcards, priced at HK$70 per set, visit plasticfreeseas.org/postcards-by-paper-roses.html.
LANTAU NEWS
… good things that have come out of lockdown
COOKING AT HOME
APPLAUDING HEROES
With more spare time on our hands and more desire than ever to keep our families well nourished, we’ve been cooking at home, a lot. If lockdown unleashed your inner chef, we hope our new column, Home Chef, turned you on to some exciting new recipes.
On April 3 at 8pm, Clap Hong Kong enabled us to show our appreciation for all the COVID-19 heroes, who have been working around the clock to keep us safe through the crisis. From our windows, balconies and front doors, we put our hands together to applaud all those on the frontline – medical practitioners, carers, cleaners, emergency services workers… you know who you are!
CRAFT BEER DELIVERY Tung Chung residents Alan Chung and Andrew Spires launched Rotten Head Craft Beer Delivery in April… to help us get through the crisis. Their handpicked, locally produced artisanal beers and ciders are available in cases of six, 12 or 24, with free delivery in Tung Chung. To place an order, visit www.rottenheadfest.com/shop. In more breaking news, Rotten Head Festival has been rescheduled for the weekend of September 18 at AIA Vitality Park at the Hong Kong Observation Wheel, Central Harbourfont. Grab your tickets, starting at HK$280, at www.rottenheadfest.com.
WINDOWSILL GARDENING We’ve had the time to watch our mini gardens grow on balconies and windowsills. The newly green-fingered will know that all you need is a windowsill that receives plenty of sunlight, potting soil and a couple of containers (with holes for drainage), plus seeds or plant starts. Leafy greens or herbs are easy to grow on windowsills, as they adjust well to varying amounts of sunlight. Just add water. www.lifeonlantau.com
June / July 2020
LIFE ON LANTAU 5
LANTAU NEWS
WHAT’S BEEN HAPPENING ISLAND WIDE
DIY FACE MASKS VIRTUAL HAPPY HOURS Unable to go to bars or restaurants, we’ve been finding ways to drink together online. With the rise of the virtual happy hour, ‘quarantinis’ has become a social media phenomenon with users sharing recipes for ‘healthy’ cocktails. For a sugar-free martini, simply replace the Cointreau or triple sec with sparkling water and a splash of fresh orange juice. Tequila is already a comparatively healthy option since it’s distilled, which makes it less inflammatory than other spirits, and it’s made from agave, so it’s very low on the glycemic index. Cheers!
Making face masks (beautifying not protective) has become the new normal. Here’s one of our favourites: Mash half a ripe avocado to a pulp and then mix in a teaspoon of honey and a dash of plain organic yoghurt. Stir well to form a thick paste. Apply the mask to your skin for 10 to 15 minutes or until it dries out. The avocado is loaded with vitamin E, healthy fats and antioxidants to help keep the skin smooth, and the honey helps brighten the skin, while doubling as a natural antibacterial/ antimicrobial cleanser. Add a little uncooked oatmeal to the mix, and this mask will also work as a soothing exfoliant.
GETTING IN SHAPE
KEEPING THE ARK AFLOAT
Barred from the gym, we’ve got back into running, with many of us taking the opportunity to train for the big local races. RaceBase (www.racebase.asia) has several rescheduled events coming up: Lantau Beer Dash, September 12; The Great Relay September 20; and Country of Origin, September 26. And if you’re finally ready to compete in MoonTrekker (October 23 to 24), race registration opens on June 10 at barclaysmoontrekker.com.
Unable to hold its experiential workshops and courses during lockdown, Ark Eden Foundation has been hard hit by the crisis. The team continues to plant native trees in the Mui Wo hills and build up its permaculture food production system but needs our help to stay afloat. Many of us have pledged our support these past weeks and there’s still time to make a donation by heading to the Ark Eden campaign at gogetfunding.com.
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LANTAU NEWS
Entrepreneur of the Month – Kate Zhou The founder of Yifan Mandarin shares the secrets of her success
M
Kate Zhou is passionate about teaching Mandarin as a second language
y business is teaching Mandarin as a second language to children (12 months up) and adults. I opened Yifan Mandarin in Central in 2002 and in Discovery Bay in 2011. We follow an interactive teaching approach in a small group setting, and we try to keep our classes fun. We engage the children in games and activities while they learn the language. We also tailor-make the curriculum to suit the teaching needs of students. Yifan Mandarin is a success because I love the language and I’m passionate about teaching it. As Richard Branson once said, “Entrepreneurship is about turning what excites you in life into capital, so that you can do more of it and move forward with it.” To succeed in business, you need to be focused. The trick is to focus on one aspect of your work at a time and get better at it every day. I have a huge admiration for all those traditional craftsmen who spend a lifetime perfecting one thing.
Photo courtesy of Kate Zhou
My advice for someone looking to start up a business is to embrace change. Changes come at you every day from different directions – you need to be prepared for that and enjoy it. The greatest challenge I’ve faced in business has been surviving the COVID-19 pandemic. I faced another challenging time about a decade ago when Mandarin went from being an after-school programme to an everyday subject that’s taught in most schools. I was forced to change up our business model and we managed to pull through. When hiring staff, I always ask them about their favourite teacher when they were a student. I ask them to explain what they particularly liked about that teacher.
The thing that interests me most about my business is working with the language that has shaped me since birth. I like teaching Mandarin to adults as well as children – it’s a joy – but, without doubt, some of my most entertaining on-the-job moments have happened with kids. One of my favourites concerns a six-year-old student, Simon [not his real name]. Simon was always picked up after class by his mum or helper but on this particular day, a man arrived to collect him, 20 minutes late. Simon refused to move and said to his teacher, in Mandarin, “I don’t know him, I cannot go with him.” The teacher then asked the man who he was, and he said he was the boy’s father. Simon’s mother confirmed this over the phone, and Simon burst out laughing and ran out. As dad followed suit he said, “It looks like I’ll have to learn Mandarin too!” My greatest achievement is that both my children are fluent in Mandarin, even though ours is a mixed household linguistically and we speak mainly English at home. My husband is French and the kids have attended the French International School since they were three years old. My plan for the future is to expand my business. I want to make the Yifan Mandarin Teaching Service available in more schools and in more areas across Hong Kong. My personal motto is ‘What you do not want done to yourself, do not do to others.’ Confucius said that. Translated to my business, this means I don’t offer clients any service that I would not want to receive myself.
FIND IT
•
Yifan Mandarin, 2486 9012, learn@yifanmandarin.com, www.yifanmandarin.com www.lifeonlantau.com
June / July 2020
LIFE ON LANTAU 7
PERSONA
MEET THE PUBLISHER!
Photos by Duey Tam & courtesy of Philip Jay
Philip Jay took over as the publisher of Bay Media in February this year, which makes him the new powerhouse behind not only Life on Lantau but also Around DB and the Bay Media Design Studio. He sits down with Rachel Ainsley to discuss plans for the future
8  LIFE ON LANTAU
June / July 2020
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Londoner born and bred, Philip Jay says he’s been “selling since he could talk,” and I believe him. He can talk nonstop for 57 minutes, barely pausing to take a breath. I know this because I just timed him. That’s fine by me – he’s answered my questions without my having to ask them – he clearly knows what he’s about. What’s more, he comes across as driven, funny, open and surprisingly self-deprecating; I like my new boss’ energy.
Trusting my first impressions and having had a good look at Philip’s resume, it seems to me that Bay Media, and by extension the communities it serves, are in good hands. Philip has 35+ years publishing experience across community and trade magazines. And that’s all in Hong Kong. Here are some highlights: Publisher and founder, Jewish Times Asia (2006 to present); managing director, Localiiz.com (2018 to 2015); senior business development director, SingTao/ Standard Newspaper Group (HK) (2003 to 2005); founder and managing director, Technology News Asia (2000 to 2003); general manager, Thomson Financial Publishing (1997 to 2000). “What I’m good at is seeing a connection. I see advertisers around an editorial idea and then, if I’m convinced it will work, I get the right people to write it and the right people to sell it,” Philip says. “You need a good pitch and a good line of patter in this business, then you hire people to cover your own inadequacies. It also helps if you have a knack for being in the right place at the right time.”
Lantau districts. In fact, there might be room for two separate magazines – one for Mui Wo and one for Tung Chung.” Having published Jewish Times Asia (Asia’s first community tabloid) since 2006, Philip is in a great position to make all this happen, and he’s clearly a firm believer in the value of community news. “People really enjoy it, and they take it in more than general news,” he says. “It’s good to see people you know and can relate to in a magazine. And it’s good to read a magazine that’s written for you, that focuses on local celebs, local events and local concerns. Life on Lantau is already on the right track with all this, we just need to go a lot bigger with it.”
“It’s good to see people you know and can relate to in a magazine. And it’s good to read a magazine that’s written for you, that focuses on local celebs, local events and local concerns”
The future of Life on Lantau It’s clear that Philip took over Bay Media at an… interesting time (more on that later), so what drew him to the business and to Life on Lantau specifically? “I’m struck by the strength, the positivity and the inclusiveness of the Lantau community, and I think Life on Lantau reflects that,” he says. “Given its location and energised spirit, we are in a fantastic position to continue to progress and move forward. It’s a great little magazine with a lot of potential and I am immensely proud to be picking up the baton.” The good news is that Philip plans to expand Life on Lantau over the next couple of years. “It definitely needs its own website,” he says, “and I’d like to boost the content to focus on all the different
Of Life on Lantau ’s sister magazine, Philip says: “ Around DB serves the Discovery Bay community well; I always get great feedback on the content, so while I’d like to refine it a bit, there’s not much I want to change. Fundamentally, if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.” Plans for Bay Media Philip describes himself as “an oldfashioned publisher; a traditional print man,” but he’s also the man who transformed Localiiz.com from an A to Z of small businesses (a glorified telephone directory), into one of Hong Kong’s most popular social-media sites. Needless to say, he has big plans for Bay Media’s online presence.
“We have 40,000+ visitors to our website every month, and we have a very active Facebook presence with 18,000+ followers, so there’s a lot of potential there,” Philip says. “I plan to expand our digital reach. The more online communication the better, not just for followers and influencers but also for advertisers. We need to provide more tailor-made marketing campaigns that reach our unique readership, with more split print/ digital opportunities for clients. “Bay Media already brings out Best of Lantau twice a year and I plan to build on that by introducing more guides,” Philip adds. “A guide for tourists focused on nature and hiking; a property publication; a F&B guide; a directory of Lantau businesses… I want more out of the landscape. Maybe a magazine for Cheung Chau, and for the other outlying islands.” Last but not least, Philip plans to increase the Bay Media Design Studio vision. “From logos, leaflets and company brochures, to www.lifeonlantau.com
June / July 2020
LIFE ON LANTAU 9
PERSONA
book publishing and website creation, we’re in a position to help all businesses,” he says. “Bay Media Design Studio provides an important service. It’s another aspect of the business that I want to see develop and grow.” Family matters Philip at home with wife Marilyn and their kids Joshua and Jessica
Before we get into the in and outs of the February takeover, I ask Philip about his family. “My wife’s name? It’s Marilyn. As in Marilyn Monroe,” he says, without missing a beat. “We met in Hong Kong in the early ‘90s when we were in our early 30s. It was love at first sight. On my side anyway. Marilyn played hard to get. She didn’t give me her phone number and I had to wait well over a month to see her again. In life you have to be patient, especially when you are picking your life partner. We are celebrating 20 years of marriage this year.” Philip’s kids Joshua Jay, 16 and Jessica Jay, 14, share the nickname JJ. “Names that are short and sharp appeal to people, which is one of the reasons I called my first Hong Kong venture Philip Jay Publishing,” he says. “That and the fact that people need to know you first if you’re going to sell to them. But back to the kids: I wanted them to have names that roll off the tongue and are easy to remember. Everyone wants a JJ on their team; JJs don’t get teased in the playground.” The family lives in Clear Water Bay, and the lifestyle they enjoy will be familiar to many Life on Lantau readers: “We live in a small house in a quiet village, there are dogs and birds and it’s very scenic,” Philip says. “I need that to think.” Though it takes four trains and a bus to get Philip to Lantau every day, moving here is not on the cards at present. “My wife works for a shipping company in Kowloon Bay and the kids are nearing the end of their IB [at Elsa High School in Shau Kei Wan], so it would be difficult to relocate in the short term,” he says. “I’m the person with Hong Kong’s longest commute, I wouldn’t do that if I wasn’t passionate about Bay Media,” Philip adds. “But what’s important is that I already feel connected to Lantau. I’ve an office in Discovery Bay, and I hop on a bus to see clients in Tung Chung and Mui Wo a couple of times a week. Being based on the island is a breath of fresh air after having worked in Central for so long. There’s no smog, very little pollution; everyone’s very welcoming and there’s a strong community spirit.”
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The takeover Philip has been commuting to Lantau since October last year, when he was hired as general manager, by then publisher Corinne Jedwood Rechter, to oversee the day-to-day workings of Bay Media. “Corinne had been commuting back and forth from California for a couple of years, and from Israel before that, and she was beginning to feel the strain,” he explains. “Within a month or two of my coming onboard everything was running more efficiently, and she was visiting less and less. In February, she told me she wanted to move away from the business; she wanted to make a clean, quick break and she asked if I wanted to step in. “Corinne’s so happy to have someone to keep Bay Media going,” Philip adds. “She doesn’t have to worry about her staff, her clients, or the Lantau community.” That’s all well and good but who in their right minds (sorry Philip) would decide to take over a business five months ago, right when the COVID-19 outbreak was really starting to kick in? “I’ve never experienced anything like this – SARS was a short sharp shock by comparison – this one could be a year,” Philip admits. “But you have to be proactive even in the worst financial times. We need longevity and patience – we need to be strong, tough and resilient. Hopefully then we’ll all survive. To keep Bay Media afloat, we’re 100% relying on people, on the community. If people still like reading the magazines and seeing themselves in them, and if advertisers stay with us, the long-term prospects are fantastic. “I’m staying positive,” Philip concludes with a grin. “I look forward to going to work every day, to seeing the new issues come out and to getting advertising for people.”
GIVEAWAYS
Here’s your chance to win great prizes! Life on Lantau prizes are incredibly easy to get your hands on, and you have until June 10 to apply. Simply scan the barcode, or go to www.lifeonlantau.com/giveaways, select the giveaway you want, and enter your details into the online form.
WIN AN OLIVE-WOOD BREAD DISH FROM ZEITOUNA
Zeitouna Olive Oil is offering two readers an olive-wood bread dish (worth HK$290). Zeitouna Olive Oil is a homegrown Lebanese brand, importing natural extra-virgin olive oil from a single region in North Lebanon. Zeitouna also specialises in hand-crafted olive-wood kitchenware and utensils, and traditional Lebanese Baklawa. Find out more at www.zeitounaoliveoil.com.
www.zeitounaoliveoil.com
WIN CRAFT BEER AND CIDER FROM ROTTEN HEAD
www.rottenheadfest.com/shop
Rotten Head Craft Beer Delivery is offering two readers a mystery six-pack of craft beer and cider (worth up to HK$190). Rotten Head Craft Beer Delivery’s handpicked, locally produced artisanal beers and ciders are available in cases of six, 12 or 24. Delivery is available throughout Lantau, and it’s free in Tung Chung. For more on Rotten Head, turn to page 5. To place an order, visit www.rottenheadfest.com/shop.
Congratulations to last issue’s winners Moniz Chan and Tim Bardwell for a Hong Kong Trail Map; and Brian Colman for a place on a Treasure Island Group Summer Adventure Camp
EDUCATION
hAppY CaMpErS With all the different summer camps on offer across Lantau, how do you decide which will benefit your child the most? Samantha Wong reports
I Photo courtesy of www.wikimedia.org
n choosing a summer camp for your children – with your children if they’re old enough – making sure they are going to have lots of fun has to be a first priority. After all, they’ve been stuck at home for most of this year and they’ll be ready for some excitement. Whichever type of camp you choose, your kids will be given the opportunity to be busy and social. The idea is that they’ll be able to make new friends and, with the guidance of adult mentors, discover new things about themselves. The obvious way to go about choosing a camp is to match your kids’ interests with a course that’s available locally. And with so many different classes on offer across Lantau, this will likely be a no-brainer. You’ll find camps that allow your children to focus on everything from the environment to surfing and Mandarin. Looked at this way, your decision-making process is simple enough. Sign your children up for an activity they already enjoy 12 LIFE ON LANTAU
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and give them the chance to focus on it, and get seriously good at it. Game over! But have you considered going the other way? Rather than enrolling your kids in a course they already know something about, plump for something new and unexpected, something that will expand their horizons. Let’s say, for instance, that your kids are homebodies and, like mine, tech obsessed. Any camp you choose will encourage them to unplug and get social, but one that’s based outdoors could be the best bet. Sign them up for a sports course and you’ll see them being physically active and more than that, they’ll be outdoors, connecting with nature in some way. My kids are always saying that they aren’t interested in being outdoors, that they lack access to it and it makes them feel uncomfortable… a few sessions on the playing field could well open their eyes! To keep things interesting, there’s also the option of enrolling children in a classroom-based camp. This is going to be a particularly good bet if you feel grade points have been lost during lockdown. And an educational camp doesn’t have to be dull. Specialised, teacher-led summer courses make learning and problem-solving fun and interactive. Most summer camps last a week at most, so here’s your answer: Sign your kids up for as many different courses as you can afford. Ideally, they’ll be able to explore their favourite hobbies and try something new, while keeping up with their studies. It’s starting to look like a busy, productive and most importantly fun summer!
Summer Activities Guide for Lantau Kids OUTDOOR
MANDARIN YIFAN MANDARIN www.yifanmandarin.com
YI
FAN
ARK EDEN www.arkedenonlantau.org
The Yifan Mandarin Camp comprises intensive five-day language learning programmes for kids aged three to 13 years old. Running from June 22 to August 14 in DB, there are both half- and full-day courses available, with the full-day boot camps reserved for nine to 13-year olds. Kids learn through activities like singing, playing games and making arts and crafts – exclusively in Mandarin.
Ark Eden’s multi-day Summer Forest Camps bring out the adventurous, curious and compassionate side of children, aged five to 11 years. Running from June 22 to August 21 in the Mui Wo hills, the camps are both fun and educational with different eco-minded activities, like treehouse building, campfire cooking and swimming in waterfalls on offer each day.
2486 9012, learn@yifanmandarin.com
2988 5355, info@arkedenonlantau.org
OUTDOOR CAMP APA
TREASURE ISLAND
www.asiapacificadventure.com
www.treasureislandhk.com
Asia Pacific Adventure’s summer programme, Camp APA, is designed for youth aged seven to 17 years old. Running from June 29 to August 7 in Sai Kung, the day and overnight camps are divided into three age groups. The adventure activities on offer, such as kayaking and abseiling, give young people the opportunity to make new friends, learn new skills and create lifelong memories.
From June 15 to August 14, Treasure Island is providing nine weeks of award-winning Surf and Adventure Camps in Pui O for surfers of all levels aged five to 16 years. The week-long day camps are divided into three age groups (Grommets, Intermediates and Young Adventurers), and kids are given the opportunity to learn water skills, ocean safety and environmental awareness, as well as surfing.
2792 7160, summer@apa.co
5236 7016, inquiries@treasureislandhk.com
www.lifeonlantau.com
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LIFE ON LANTAU 13
DISPATCH
Best of the best
Serene, foreboding, dappled with sunlight, or scoured by rain, South Lantau’s beaches are world-class. Samantha Wong shares her all-time top five
W Photos by Duey Tam, Andrew Spires, Martin Lerigo & Jason Pagliari
e are fortunate indeed to have wonderful beaches here on Lantau, from big open bays complete with lifeguard towers and Coca-Cola stalls, to small, hidden gems tucked beneath rugged cliffs. Here are five of the best to visit, or revisit this summer.
1 Pui O Beach
Pui O’s environs are hard to beat. The route from the bus stop on South Lantau Road takes you past sleepy Pui O village, and through fields where water buffalo are often found grazing, or simply hanging out. Once you reach the water, you are presented with an untouched beach flanked by a rocky outcrop on the Chi Ma Wan peninsula to the southeast, and Yi Tung Shan and Sunset Peak to the northwest. At the beach itself, you can spend your day in several ways. Parents can set up shop at Treasure Island’s terraced restaurant and watch the kids gallivant on the beach below. The group also offers beach chair, kayak and board rentals, as well as coolers and beach bags in case you prefer to pick up supplies and lug them across the ‘black’ sand. Of course, there’s nothing stopping you from going it alone (by bringing your own board); Pui O is diligently supervised by the Leisure and Cultural Services Department (LCSD). The lifeguard hours in summer, as with all beaches that are maintained by the 14 LIFE ON LANTAU
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Pui O Beach
LCSD, are from 9am to 6pm on weekdays, and from 8am to 7pm on Saturdays, Sundays and public holidays. One of the most appealing aspects of Pui O is how easy it is to overnight there. The tents and cabanas offered by Treasure Island may be the prudent, albeit more expensive option, if your priority is a good night’s sleep. However, the LCSD campsite on the other side of the beach is at most 50 metres from the sea (tide dependant) and there you’ll be rocked to sleep by the sound of the waves smashing the shore. Either way, it’s truly hard to reconcile the fact that you’re in Hong Kong with what you witness as the sun sets on Pui O.
BEACH CONSERVATION The amount of litter that arrives courtesy of the sea is notorious in Hong Kong and, for Lantau beaches, there are times of the year when beach cleaners are kept fully occupied removing the detritus that comes ashore with every tide. Well managed in the main, they do suffer from time to time from the litter people leave behind, so do your bit to keep them pristine. To get involved in a local beach clean-up, visit www.ecomarinehongkong.org, or email ROBAR (rubbish-off-beaches-and-roads) at robandros@me.com.
2 Silvermine Bay Beach
A perfect crescent of sand nestled below Lin Fa Shan peak and the spectacular Mui Wo basin, Silvermine Bay Beach is busier than most on Lantau, largely because it’s somewhere you can enjoy the sand and sea without too much hassle. Like Pui O, it’s supervised by the LCSD. This easily accessible beach has excellent facilities, including barbecue pits. Although, when it comes to getting something to eat you are spoilt for choice, as all of Mui Wo’s restaurants are within a 10-minute walk from the beach. If you and your friends are the active sort, have a turn using the beach volleyball court nestled under a pair of trees just metres from the river Silver. Alternately, spend a night at Silvermine Beach Hotel and enjoy some of the myriad outdoor activities on offer – you can rent stand-up paddle boards, peddle boats and kayaks. It is worth mentioning, however, that the water quality at Silvermine Bay Beach is on-average rated as ‘Fair’ by the Environmental Protection Department (EPD), the grade below ‘Good,’ and the beach can get quite crowded on weekends. However, when you consider that it is only a quick kaito or bus ride away, Silvermine Bay Beach is a great repeat destination for families.
WATER QUALITY While you may not get crystal clear seas, the water quality around southern Lantau is at some of the best levels in Hong Kong. The EPD consistently rates the water at many beaches as ‘Good,’ the highest rating it has, meaning the lowest quantities of E. Coli bacteria. For weekly updates on the water quality off beaches throughout Hong Kong, visit www.beachwq.gov.hk/en/map.aspx. Silvermine Bay Beach
www.lifeonlantau.com
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LIFE ON LANTAU 15
DISPATCH
3 Upper Cheung Sha Beach
One of the two sister beaches divided by an unassuming headland that barely reaches the coast, Upper Cheung Sha is the longest beach on Lantau (3 kilometres), and one of the longest in Hong Kong. To get there simply hop off the bus at Cheung Sha Ha Tsuen, and walk down the slope. This beach is also maintained by the LCSD, and the lifeguard post at the western end has the usual showers, toilets and changing rooms. While the sand is soft and powdery, there are some rocks dotted around both in the water and on the beach itself, so be a bit careful where you set up, and where you swim. Bring lots of water and snacks if you plan to stay the day, as Upper Cheung Sha has less amenities and restaurants than its lower, busier counterpart, and there is very little shade. This beach is best enjoyed under a portable umbrella, with a cooler full of drinks, sandwiches, chips and dips. The main draw of Upper Cheung Sha is its sheer length. Walking west from the lower beach you have the tree-lined beach to your right and to your left, the sea and various islands to Lantau’s south. In the foreground, lies the islet Cha Kwo Chau, and further behind it the Soko Islands. If you look back to Lower Cheung Sha, you see the same outcrop as you do from Pui O, as well as Shek Kwu Chau. Yes, the future home of the mega-incinerator.
DEVELOPMENT PLANS Lantau’s southern coast is peppered with pretty beaches but given the prospect of the future Shek Kwu Chau incinerator and the looming East Lantau Metropolis project, you really shouldn’t wait to explore them. The latest government plans set forth a litany of projects aimed at attracting, retaining and entertaining largescale tourism. To express your concern, email landac@ devb.gov.hk.
4 Tai Long Wan
By far the smallest and most remote beach on this list, Tai Long Wan, which translates as Big Wave Bay, actually boasts three beaches. And it’s unique in all ways but in name. There’s a Tai Long Wan in Sai Kung, one on the easternmost coast of Hong Kong Island, and not one but two on Lantau – the other one shoulders Sea Ranch and is only accessible by hike or sampan from Cheung Chau. It’s a spectacular beach, but a bit too out of the way for most. To visit this particular Tai Long Wan is still quite a trek. After getting off a bus at Sha Tsui at the corner of Shek Pik Reservoir,
Upper Cheung Sha Beach
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June / July 2020
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5 Shui Hau Beach
Shui Hau is a gem of a beach, wild and compact and, like Tai Long Wan, it’s often deserted. Take the bus to Shui Hau and look out for the signposts at the western edge of the village pointing south to the sea. The beach lies on part of the Lantau Trail, so the yellow way-markers, with silhouettes of two hikers, will also take you in the right direction.
Tai Long Wan
There are no facilities here save a roughly hewn area for camping, so again you’ll need to bring whatever you need for the duration of your stay. The beach mainly attracts hikers and campers, being out of reach for most day trippers and casual tourists. It’s also home to the Kiteboarding Association of Hong Kong and a great place for beginners to test their mettle. Palms, ferns and Banyan trees dot the waterline and the sand is silky and white. Enjoy the splendour of the setting, nestled in a rocky inlet, with glorious Lantau Peak at your back.
follow Wang Pui Road (and the sound of crashing waves) through Tai Long Wan village to the beach. If you’re taking it easy, or have small children in tow, it may take up to 30 minutes to reach the beach from the road. As a reward for your efforts, you’ll likely find yourself on a completely deserted beach. There are no chairs, umbrellas or lifeguards on duty, and definitely no restaurants. Everything you will need for the day, you will have to bring yourself. This may seem like a drawback, but with the hectic lifestyles so many of us lead, simple seclusion (perhaps enjoyed with a few friends or family) is a real luxury.
SWIMMING SAFETY When swimming in undesignated areas, or areas not supervised by lifeguards, stay close to the shore. It’s also advisable to swim with a buddy, and have young children or inexperienced swimmers wear approved lifejackets. Never leave a young child unattended near water and don’t trust a child’s life to another child. If someone goes missing, check the water first.
Shui Hau Beach
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LIFE ON LANTAU 17
WALKABOUT
Ngong Ping Jason Pagliari invites you on a jungle jaunt from the Ngong Ping Cable Car Terminal clockwise round the mountains to Pak Kung Au
Looking back to the Big Buddha, Po Lin Monastery and Lantau Peak
W
hen selecting a hike for the hot, wet months of June and July, it’s best to start at high altitude, where it’s coolest and you can avoid excessive climbing. This trek from the Ngong Ping Cable Car Terminal to Pak Kung Au ticks those boxes, while providing great mountainside views over Lantau Peak, the airport and Tung Chung. We’ll be heading along the Nei Lak Shan Country Trail, a circular hike from Ngong Ping, and continuing down the northern slope of Lantau Peak (Fung Wong Shan), through a monastery-packed village deep in the jungle. From there, we’ll hike 2 kilometres of the Tei Tong Tsai Country Trail to the bus stop at Pak Kung Au, on the crest of the old Tung Chung Road. This hike covers 9 kilometres (and we expect to complete it in four hours) but you can easily foreshorten it by heading back to Ngong Ping after the Nei Lak Shan Country Trail.
Re-joining the main trail as it meanders gently upwards, we arrive, after a short while, at a junction with steps leading up on the right. This is the start and end point of the circular Nei Lak Shan Country Trail, which extends around the mountain of the same name to the east of Lantau Peak. Continuing on, following the cable cars, our trail winds its way uphill among trees, and there are a few wooden bridges over streams. Climbing to the top of some steep steps, we take a right fork onto an earth trail. It starts to get breezy as we break tree cover into grassland. A narrow trail on the left, which takes you up to the cable car relay station at its highest point, is well worth investigating as
Photos by Jason Pagliari
Start: Ngong Ping Cable Car Terminal Our group and dogs meet at Ngong Ping village for lunch to discuss our route and fuel up. (It’s an Ebeneezer’s vindaloo curry for me.) Starting out from the cable car terminal building, we follow a wall on the north side of the plaza, behind the village, and cross over a drainage channel. There’s a large map here which shows the trails in the area. We follow the cement-and-stonework Ngong Ping 360 Rescue Trail for about half a kilometre and take a detour up a small hill on our left to enjoy an awesome view of Lantau Peak and the Big Buddha.
The cable car relay station and Nei Lak Shan peak www.lifeonlantau.com
June / July 2020
LIFE ON LANTAU 19
WALKABOUT SPOTLIGHT
you get a great airport view from the hilltop. Note too that you can take the Rescue Trail steps from here all the way down to Tung Chung; we stop at the relay station for a breather before returning to our original path. Nei Lak Shan Country Trail We’re now heading north-easterly around the side of Nei Lak Shan peak. There’s a trail leading up to the summit at 751 metres, where there’s a transmitter station and some strange rock formations. But we continue on, looking across the cable cars and big boulders towards the airport and then taking in a plunging view down to Tung Chung Valley, some 500 metres below.
In the winter, silver grasses glow in the sun up here and shimmer in the breeze like horse’s tails. There’s usually a gentle breeze wafting along the mountainside whenever you make this hike. In the wet summer months, it’s refreshingly cool and you’ll likely be right up in the clouds – with 50-metre visibility, you’ll be focusing on the trail ahead. At this point, the trail starts to meander down through thick hillside vegetation and we’re hit by a barrage of sound – frogs croaking in the streams, cicadas chirping and birds calling to each other. In counterpoint to this, a faint but deep roar echoes up through the forest, emanating from the airport and Tung Chung town. This section of the trail is one of my favourites – a wide and rocky boulder-scape set among trees. As the hillside path turns to the southeast, we break tree cover to see Lantau Peak looming above us on our left. We then come to a fork with stone steps leading up on the right; this is the final part of the Nei Lak Shan Country Trail, which we skip. Continuing straight on, we take a hard left when we reach a road. A trail map reveals that you can quickly get back to Ngong Ping from this point. But we’re headed north to Tei Tong Tsai village, through the sacred and inscribed Dong Shan Fa Mun archway. Fa Mun Traditional Path
View towards the airport with Castle Peak and Tuen Mun in the distance
The Fa Mun Traditional Path leads steeply downhill from Dong Shan Fa Mun. We rest up at a pagoda near the start. Various trails lead out from around here and it’s difficult to identify where they all go, likely to the secluded spiritual retreats that this area is known for. We start seeing signs in English asking hikers to keep quiet, as many devotees are in meditation in this quiet and peaceful place. Conscience dictates we respect the request for silence.
Tung Chung Valley, 500 metres below
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We pass through an open area by Po Lam Zen Monastery and the monks’ organic vegetable garden, as we follow the main path to Tei Tong Tsai village, which translates as something like ‘small pond in the ground.’ We find ourselves in thick jungle laced with giant bamboo as we reach the village notice board. Sticking to the main path, there are streetlights on the steps leading down. We pass more monastery retreats, farmland and a large private pond on our right, which we speculate is where the village got its name. Tei Tong Tsai Country Trail Leaving the village and heading downhill to the east, the path crosses a wooden bridge over a gently bubbling brook. A fork to the left leads down to Shek Mun Kap village and on to Tung Chung, but we take the steps uphill through forest. A map here informs us we are now on the Tei Tong Tsai Country Trail, a 2-kilometre long, natural path that winds up and over a thick forest to the old (disused) Tung Chung Road. There’s a picnic area near the end where we rest up and enjoy the glorious open mountain views. After about 30 minutes on this trail, we reach its conclusion at another picnic area with an arched entrance. Now on the homeward stretch, we walk up the old Tung Chung Road a short way to the bus stop at Pak Kung Au. The arched entrance of Dong Shan Fa Mun, leading to the Fa Mun Traditional Path
Forested trail on the north slope of Nei Lak Shan www.lifeonlantau.com
June / July 2020
LIFE ON LANTAU 21
HOME CHEF
In the raw Hooked on sashimi but over sushi? Then cast your net wider. You’ll be pleased to know that Japan does not have the monopoly on raw fish dishes
Tuna Tartare Serves 4 450g sashimi-grade tuna, cubed 2 green jalapeños, minced, seeds reserved 2 red jalapeños, minced, seeds reserved 175ml sesame oil ¼tbsp garlic, minced 2 pears, peeled and diced 6tbsp pine nuts, toasted 2 egg yolks 2tbsp chilli powder 2 radishes, diced
Photos courtesy of unsplash.com Photos courtesy of unsplash.com
6 mint leaves
Refrigerate the cubed tuna. Gently fry the jalapeños seeds in the oil, strain and allow the oil to cool. Mix together the tuna, infused sesame oil, jalapeños, garlic, pears, pine nuts and egg yolks. Season well. Pack into four individual ring moulds. Sprinkle with chilli powder, radish strips and mint. Serve with gently fried eggs and hot toast. 22 LIFE ON LANTAU
June / July 2020
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Snapper Ceviche Serves 4 300g snapper fillets, skin removed 237ml lime juice 237ml lemon juice 3tbsp coconut cream ½ red onion, finely diced 1 red chilli, finely diced 2 tbsp fresh coriander, finely diced 150g cucumber, diced 150g mango, diced
Slice the fish into 1-centimetre strips and place in a bowl. Sprinkle with salt, pour over the lime and lemon juice and gently mix together. Refrigerate for an hour, then stir gently making sure all of the fish is exposed to the citrus juices. Leave the mixture to sit for one more hour. Strain off the excess juice then add the remaining ingredients, stirring gently. Serve with crunchy bread.
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June / July 2020
LIFE ON LANTAU  23
OUT & ABOUT
COMMUNITY SNAPS
e ould lik If you w tured os fea t o h p your to see email page, is h t on .hk ia.com d e m y ba duey@
As a result of COVID-19, thousands of face masks have ended up on Lantau beaches, trails and pavements. To raise awareness of the problem, Lantau Island Paddle organised a 34-kilometre continuous paddle from Discovery Bay to Mui Wo on May 2. Find more familiar faces @ www.lifeonlantau.com
www.colsimphotography.com & lantaupaddle.wixsite.com
24  LIFE ON LANTAU
June / July 2020
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Lantau kids welcomed summer at Ark Eden’s movie-themed camps in May in Mui Wo. The Harry Potter, Rat Race and Ratatouille programmes proved a big hit. Find more familiar faces @ www.lifeonlantau.com
www.arkedenonlantau.org
In creating her Shelter song non-profit music video, Mui Wo resident Monika Liechti relied on the help of schoolchildren across Lantau. Shelter aims to promote intergenerational connection and mental wellbeing by inviting adults to be empathetic listeners to the children in their care. Find more familiar faces @ www.lifeonlantau.com
Photos courtesy of Monika Liechti
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June / July 2020
LIFE ON LANTAU  25
OUT & ABOUT
e ould lik If you w tured os fea t o h p your to see email page, is h t n o .hk ia.com d e m y ba duey@
Mui Wo residents celebrated the easing of COVID-19 social distancing measures in late May by heading outdoors to enjoy the sunshine. Find more familiar faces @ www.lifeonlantau.com
Photos by Duey Tam
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June / July 2020
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There was plenty of fun to be had at Treasure Island in Pui O last month. Campers signed up for the family adventure staycation package enjoyed free activities like surfing, kayaking and stand-up paddle boarding. Find more familiar faces @ www.lifeonlantau.com
www.treasureislandhk.com
Life was slowly getting back to normal last month with Tung Chung residents already out and about. Find more familiar faces
@ www.lifeonlantau.com
Photos by Terry Chow www.lifeonlantau.com
June / July 2020
LIFE ON LANTAU  27
Dogs and cats on Lantau need you! To adopt or foster a pet and make a difference, head to www.tailslantau.org To offer your support by donating or volunteering, head to www.tailslantau.org/donate-volunteer TAILS’ Adoption Days are held every Saturday, 2 to 5pm; usually we will be at China Bear (Mui Wo) or Treasure Island (Pui O). Stay tuned for weekly location updates by following us on Facebook (www.facebook.com/tailslantau) and Instagram (www.instagram.com/tails.lantau). TAILS’ adoption fee is HK$1,500 for dogs and HK$1,000 for cats. This fee covers the first set of annual vaccinations, rabies vaccination, microchip, de-worm and de-flea treatment, heartworm test and 6 months of heartworm prevention, plus de-sexing surgery and any additional required medical treatment and animal care received prior to adoption. TAILS’ priority is to find the right match that will be in the best interests of both the animal and the family. Please fill in a foster or adoption questionnaire at www.tailslantau.org/adopt.
GIVING LIFE SHOULDN’T BE SO DEADLY Ramatoulaye, who lives in Burkina Faso, was about to give birth to her fourth child, but the boatman was nowhere to be found. Unable to get to the health centre across the river, she gave birth alone on the river banks. Maternal health is a human right — join Amnesty International to defend human rights for women like Ramatoulaye. Learn more at www.amnesty.org.hk.
Jane is just 8 weeks old. She’s from a litter of three newly rescued pups (Jane, Judy and Astro – The Jetsons!) who are all looking for families to take them in and love them forever! Charlie is 11 months old. She was found running around scared looking for food, but she has grown into a beautiful, loving cat who loves to play and chat to her foster family.
Bubi is 12 months old. He loves being outdoors exploring and hiking and he is calm, gentle, playful, friendly and loyal with humans, K9s or felines! He loves to cuddle! Bak-Bak is 12 months old. He is calm, gentle, sweet and easy-to-train, and he loves spending time with his fosters. Like his brother Bubi, he loves socialising with other dogs and going on hikes.
© Anna Kari
AKASH MOVING Local packing, moving, storage & handyman service • All kinds of transport services • Inbound shipment clearance Having stuff delivered from China? They are not delivering to DB or Lantau? Have it delivered to our office in Kwai Chung & we’ll deliver it to your home
KITTY
Contact 2421 8088 or visit
Looki ng t o host a part y or j ust a great day out wi t h your f ri ends on t he wat er, we have a 35 capaci t y wooden j unk f or hi re.
info@akash.hk www.akash.hk
ADVERTISE HERE
LIFE ON LANTAU CLASSIFIEDS
Central or Discovery Bay pick up info@hongkongjunks.com.hk
ARK EDEN SUMMER CAMP Ark Eden’s nature camps develop children's confidence and love of the natural world through exciing outdoor experiences. Designed for children aged 5 to 11 years, experiences include fun imaginaave story dramas, woodwork, forest art, campfire cooking, building dens, overnight camps and lots of play!
I N PA R T N E R S H I P W I T H
T 8 C O R P O R AT E A N D B U I S N E S S S E R V I C E S
CHECK OUT ARK EDEN WEBSITE for ADDITIONAL CAMPS & WORKSHOPS
Greenland Pest Control
Visit www.arkedenonlantau.org
Tailored Pest Control Solutions for Rodent, Cockroaches, Fleas, Mosquitoes, Termites, Ants, Ticks etc…
Email : info@arkedenonlantau.org
Facebook.com/ArkEden
Tel : 2988 5355
For info please call Thomas 9871 0771 or Baguio 6776 8400 Email: baguiowong@hotmail.com
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August/ September issue
lifeonlantaumagazine
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July 15
TUNG CHUNG
LOCAL NUMBERS COMMUNITY SERVICES Tung Chung Man Tung Road Sports Centre Tung Chung Public Library Tung Chung Public Swimming Pool
2109 2421 2109 3011 2109 9107
EDUCATION Christian & Missionary Alliance Church Education Centre Discovery Mind Play Centre & Kindergarten Discovery Mind Primary School Greenfield International Kindergarten Han Xuan Language Education Centre Salala Kids’ House Soundwaves English Education Centre Sun Island Education Foundation Sunshine House International Preschool Tung Chung Catholic School YMCA of Hong Kong Christian College
3141 7319 2987 8070 2915 0666 2162 5538 2666 5905 2611 9193 2164 7210 2420 1068 2109 3873 2121 0884 2988 8123
ELECTRONIC REPAIRS So Nice Technologies (Onkar Singh)
6206 3497
EMERGENCY – FIRE/POLICE/AMBULANCE – 999 North Lantau Hospital Tung Chung Ambulance Depot Tung Chung Fire Station Tung Chung Police Station
3467 7000 2988 8282 2988 1898 3661 1694
FOOD & RESTAURANTS A Tavola Bar & Grill Curry Lounge Essence Restaurant - Novotel Citygate Handi Indian Restaurant McDonald’s Delivery Melody Thai Moccato Coffee Shop My Thai Olea Restaurant - Novotel Citygate Pizza Hut Delivery Resto Restaurant Velocity Bar and Grill - Hong Kong SkyCity Marriott
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HOME REPAIRS & DESIGN New Look Design Mega Power Engineering/Locksmiths Mr. Chan 24-hours Handyman Shun Yu Engineering
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HOTELS Novotel Citygate Hong Kong SkyCity Marriott Hotel Regal Airport Hotel
3602 8888 3969 1888 2286 8888
KIDS 4 Dimensions+ (Dance, Gym, Drama, Art) Clement Art School Jumping Castles Kidznjoy Little Stars Playgroup Sakura Kids Soundwaves Tung Chung
9446 6013 9021 1502 9662 1747 6273 7347 6479 0390 6674 6194 2164 7210
30 LIFE ON LANTAU June / July 2020
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MEDICAL Bayside Dental Essential Health Family Clinic Human Health Medical Centre Maternal & Child Health Centre North Lantau Hospital Quality HealthCare Medical Quality HealthCare Physiotherapy Raffles Medical Raffles Medical Emergency Skyline Physiotherapy
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RESIDENTIAL ESTATE CONTACTS Caribbean Coast Club House Caribbean Coast Management Office Coastal Skyline Club House Coastal Skyline Management Office Seaview Crescent Club House Seaview Crescent Management Office Tung Chung Crescent Club House Tung Chung Crescent Management Office
2109 9277 2109 9288 2179 6678 2179 6621 3473 8700 3473 8833 2403 6770 2109 1222
SPORT & RECREATION Aqua Gym Asia Pacific Soccer Schools Canterano Futbol Club Dance for Joy Edge ’n Pointe Dance Centre ESF Sports HK Dragons Kinder Kicks Soccer KipMovin La Cantera Perun Fitness Rugbytots Sparrow Soccer School Hong Kong Tung Chung Rugby Club
2914 0658 2385 9677 5611 2490 9264 8597 6688 2167 2711 1280 2987 4274 2385 9677 6180 3256 2557 8007 6443 6597 5307 6677 6051 8196 6079 0825
USEFUL NUMBERS Alcoholics Anonymous Arrow Accounting Services FTC Apparel Phoenix Wills
9073 6922 6201 9710 2428 2566 3100 0101
VETERINARY & PET SITTING SERVICES Bon’s Mobile Pet Grooming Royal Pets Ltd - Pet Sitting Tung Chung Animal Clinic Tung Chung Vet Centre
9099 9959 6314 9887 2988 1534 2328 7282
ART & CULTURE Flanhardt Galerie und Atelier (FGUA)
2882 3390
EDUCATION Ashville International Kindergarten & Nursery Buddhist Fat Ho College Lantau International Kindergarten Lantau International School Lao Shi Lantau Mandarin lessons Little Lantau Montessori Kindergarten Mindfulness Matters Mui Wo Language Cafe Silvermine Bay School
2109 9886 2985 5365 2984 0302 2980 3676 5197 4647 3689 6709 9048 5425 5511 6107 2984 0006
FOOD, BEVERAGES & RESTAURANTS Bahçe Turkish Restaurant Bathers/ Beach House Cafe Isara Caffe Paradiso China Bear Deer Horn Restaurant & Bar Kebab Korner Lantau Grocer Lantana Italian Bistro Le Jardin de Sophie Loi Chan Frozen Meat Co. Long Island Mucho Gusto Natural Plus Robert’s Market Tai O Solo Café The Gallery The Kitchen The Stoep @ High Tide The Water Buffalo Value Vigilantes Treasure Island Restaurant
2984 0222 2504 4788 2470 1966 2984 0498 2984 9720 3484 3095 6429 3507 2702 0050 5465 5511 2997 9070 2984 8346 2320 2001 6422 5009 2984 2233 9193 2937 9153 7453 2980 2582 5991 6292 2980 2699 2109 3331 6132 9120 5236 7013
HEALTH & BEAUTY Greenstyle Organic and Healthcare Pause by the Banyan - health ∙ wellness Spa Ambiance Spa Puretouch Thai Palin Thai Sa Baai
9802 0553 9708 0187 2984 2488 2984 0088 9062 0148 5228 6552
HOME REPAIRS & DESIGN New Look Design Unitek
9783 5840 9156 0360
HOTELS Silvermine Beach Resort Tai O Heritage Hotel
6810 0111 2985 8383
REAL ESTATE HomeSolutions Findley Leung
3483 5003 2984 8334
RETAIL INSIDE Quay House VIBE Book & Music Shop
2890 8606 2882 8710 2984 9371
SPORT & RECREATION Lantau Base Camp Long Coast Seasports Pause by the River - pilates ∙ yoga ∙ dance Treasure Island Group
5463 6060 2980 3222 9708 0187 2546 3543
TRANSPORT New Lantau Bus Company
2984 9848
USEFUL NUMBERS Alcoholics Anonymous Phoenix Wills
9073 6922 6108 8471
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EDUCATION DBIS Kindergarten DBIS Primary School Discovery College Discovery Mind International Play Centre Discovery Mind Kindergarten Discovery Mind Primary School, North Plaza Discovery Montessori Academy, North Plaza Discovery Montessori School, North Plaza Epic Adventurers , North Plaza Eye Level Education Learning Centre, North Plaza Lingostars HK, North Plaza Mandarin for Munchkins, North Plaza Mathemagic – home tutoring Mathnasium, North Plaza SKH Wei Lun Primary School Sunshine House International Preschool Zhi Zhi Chinese
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FOOD & RESTAURANTS 22˚ North Coyote Mexican Cantina Epic Foods, North Plaza Gilmore’s by the Golden Pig, North Plaza Hemingway’s McSorley’s Ale House The Pier Bar Uncle Russ, North Plaza
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PROPERTY LISTINGS & BOATS Headland Homes Okay.com Savills Hong Kong
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RETAIL Bookazine P-Solution Wing On Star Mart, North Plaza
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SPORT & RECREATION DB Pirates Rugby, Netball, Hockey & Dragonboat Greenwich Yoga School, North Plaza HK Dragons Football Club Harry Wright International Island Dance Kapuhala Train-in-Space, North Plaza Yoga Bay, North Plaza Yoga Up, North Plaza
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TRANSPORT Passenger Telephone Hotline
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USEFUL NUMBERS Alcoholics Anonymous Auberge Discovery Bay Hotel, North Plaza Island Veterinary Services
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June / July 2020
LIFE ON LANTAU 31
MOMENTS
Bird’s Eye View In an excerpt from his bestselling memoir A Small Band of Men, former Marine Police commander Les Bird looks back to 1978 and recalls his first meeting with the then priest of Tai O, Father Don Giovanni Vigano
I
n 1978, there was one other Caucasian living on my half of Lantau, the priest of Tai O Father Don Giovanni Vigano. Rob Naylor [my predecessor], briefed me about him before he left.
“The old priest has led quite an amazing life, and is a bit of a character,” he said. “I think you and the father will get along very well. Your challenge will be language. Unfortunately, he can only speak a lick of English, but he can get by in Cantonese, and is fluent in Mandarin.” After a few days in the job, I decided to pay the father a visit. The chapel was a modest structure, located on the outskirts of the village. I walked up the tree-lined track to the front of the church, pushed open the main door and peered into the darkness.
I nodded and he rushed out, returning after a minute with a tray of small porcelain cups and a plate of delicate pastries. In a mixture of broken English, elementary Cantonese, and some Italian, the latter of which I understood little, I ascertained that Father Giovanni loved three things: God, altar wine, and football. ‘Inter Milano eez-a-much-a-betta than-a Leev-a-pool.’ Over the next few months our friendship grew, while our methods of communication remained basic. I discovered that the father’s Cantonese was actually very good so the villagers found it highly comical that their only two foreign residents often communicated in their own tongue.
“Les! Les. Is it Les?” came a lively, accented voice from the darkness. “Yes,” I said immediately, trying to make out the owner of the voice.
When the father and I dined together in one of the village restaurants, the locals would pull up their chairs so they could eavesdrop. When I got a little muddled with my Cantonese, there was always advice shouted from the crowd that had gathered at the rear. When one of us got a sentence or phrase spot on it would be accompanied by laughter and applause. Dinner with the father in Tai O was never dull.
“Come, come,” said the voice again. “I am here.”
Photo courtesy of Les Bird
putting away papers and straightening cushions. “Please, sit,” he said, pointing to a vacant armchair. “Tea,” he announced with a broad smile.
As my eyes became accustomed to the change in light, I took a couple of cautious steps, doing my best not to trip over anything, but only succeeding Les Bird with Father Don Giovanni Vigano in 1978 in walking directly into the advancing figure of Father Don Giovanni Vigano as he emerged out of the darkness. I looked down at a small, slender man. He had a bright smile and twinkling green eyes that reflected the sunlight as it washed FIND IT across his face. He grabbed my right hand between both his and shook enthusiastically. • A Small Band of Men: An Englishman’s Adventures in Hong Kong’s Marine Police (Earnshaw Books 2019), by Les Bird is “Come, come, Les. Please this way,” he said, guiding me through available at Bookazine, Kelly & Walsh and Swindon the church and into a back office. “Si, si, a-Rob he tell me, Les will come. He say Les will come, si,” he muttered as he fussed around
32 LIFE ON LANTAU
June / July 2020
www.lifeonlantau.com
WANT TO REACH AN ENGAGED AUDIENCE OF AFFLUENT RESIDENTS AND FAMILIES IN LANTAU? June / July 2019
WIN! A term’s dance classes with Twinkle Dance Company, tickets to Hong Kong Disneyland, a place on a Treasure Island summer camp and an A Tavola dinner voucher
NEW FESTIVAL ALL SET TO BOOST THE LOCAL LIVE MUSIC SCENE
EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT DRAGON BOATING
HIKING THE LANTAU TRAIL (SECTIONS 7 TO 9)
Love our ocean M E E T E C O M A R I N E AC T I V I S T K E I L E M N G
NEWS & EVENTS * PRIZES * COMMUNITY SNAPS * CLASSIFIEDS * THOUGHTS ON ISLAND LIFE
Publishers in Lantau since 2002
For 17+ years the Bay Media team has been publishing the original community magazine in Discovery Bay. Around DB is the most trusted source of content for DB residents. From our humble origins we have grown into another two publications, Life on Lantau and Best of Lantau, and a design studio. We have a very active Facebook presence, over 40,000+ visitors to our website every month and provide tailor-made marketing campaigns to reach our unique readership. We are currently offering special advertising packages (both print and digital) for 2020.
For further enquiries on details of our packages please contact our publisher, Philip Jay, at philip@baymedia.com.hk.
publishing and design studio