LUXURY OF TIME February 2015 |www.cheektochic.co.za
2 | Editor’s Letter
Editor’s letter
T
ime is a luxury for many - as is a really beautiful timepiece.
Collection in Paris, with a nod to fashion pioneer Christopher Nemeth.
The SIHH in Geneva features watch trends for the upcoming year, as well as craftsmanship from the 16 brands at the show which raise the bar in terms of know how and innovation, like the sensational Audemars Piguet “punk watch” on the cover.
Perfume has become an art form that transcends mere smell; top “noses” at top fragrance fairs like the Pitti Fragranze in Florence push the boundaries with experiential creations that are more about zeitgeist than commercial appeal. Niche, signature and limited edition are the buzz words.
In these pages you can feast your eyes on exquisite one off haute horlogerie watches and clocks from Van Cleef & Arpels, Cartier, Parmigiani (inspired by a vintage Lalique watch) and other high end jewellery houses. South Africa’s top chefs share their romantic secrets with aphrodisiac ingredients like truffles (the “diamonds of the kitchen”), oysters and fresh seasonal fruits; and of course there are lashings of Veuve Cliquot and Moët et Chandon to accompany the food of love, as well as tips from a top Lindt chocolatier. Artist Stephen Graham reveals his glittering array of Pin Art pieces and brightly coloured paintings before his upcoming exhibition at the Alliance Francaise with iBi Art. Cheek2Chic speaks to an 80 year old watchmaker from IWC whose groundbreaking complications revolutionised the watch world and introduces readers to Princess Caroline of Monaco’s daughter Charlotte Casaraghi , who has been named the brand ambassador for Montblanc. Menswear has become really exciting of late and Louis Vuitton discovers their inner dandy in their new Winter
One of Cheek2Chic’s favourite occupations is sourcing beautiful things for readers to buy and the Brooklyn Mall, so beloved of Pretoria’s well heeled and diplomatic community, is overflowing with goodies. Watch this space in 2015 for regular shopping sprees at this upmarket mall. Beauty editor/blogger Candice Lee Kannemeyer rounds up five of her most luxurious beauty products, while luxury writer Kevin Taylor finds all the most cutting edge gizmos and gadgets and enthuses about the new BMW 2 Series Active Tourer. Plus we whisk readers off to the 154th L’Ormarins Queen’s Plate in Cape and to the red carpet in Geneva for an IWC gala dinner. In short, it is a bumper issue with something for every refined taste ....
Sarah Cangley Cheek2Chic Editor
Cover picture by: www.audemarspiguet.com Diamond Punk, a stunning haute joaillerie watch from Audemars Piguet with 7,848 snow-set diamonds
4 | Horlogerie
KE
Picture by: Eric Maillet © Cartier
EEPING TIME
T
he Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie celebrated its quarter century in Geneva this year. Buyers from around the world viewed the new models for 2015 from 16 of the world’s leading watch and jewellery brands, in a refined, relaxed and rarified atmosphere.
New trends and innovations in watchmaking were revealed as well as limited edition haute horlogerie special pieces made for the occasion. One of Cartier’s new watches was the Clé de Cartier with its innovative crown. Not only is it one of the watch’s most distinctive features but also the inspiration for its name. “Clé” means key in French and the crown has been designed to resemble a key. After resetting the time and date the crown is pushed back into place and returned to its vertical position without the hands moving.
Picture by: www.montblanc.com
6 | Horlogerie
One of the horological highlights in Montblanc’s Heritage ChronomÊtrie Collection is the new ExoTourbillon Minute Chronograph that combines two of the most important chronometric complications: a chronograph to measure the duration of brief intervals and a patented tourbillon construction for absolute precision
Picture by: www.iwc.com The Portugieser Annual Calendar is one of the models from the new collection in which IWC Schaffhausen celebrates the 75th birthday of the Portugieser watch family.
Pictures by: www.vancleefarpels.com
8 | Horlogerie
Cadenas® Inspiration
Created in 1935, the Cadenas® watch marks the birth of one of Van Cleef & Arpels’s most emblematic pieces. A symbol of sentimental attachment in the image of its clasp, the watch is said to have been inspired – like the Zip necklace – by the Duchess of Windsor.
Cadenas® Sertie bracelets in yellow gold, white gold and Cadenas Pavée Saphirs Roses Bracelet with pink sapphires
Picture by: www.rlwjpress.com/sihh2015 Six new Ralph Lauren Automotive timepieces are offered for 2015, using a combination of materials, including rare hardwoods, to emulate the richness and clarity of the Bugatti’s dash, which has been a model for the Ralph Lauren Automotive timepieces since the collection launched in 2011, and which continues to influence the designer’s vision.
Picture supplied by: Piaget
10 | Horlogerie
Piaget presents a new ultra-thin hand-wound chronograph in its iconic Altiplano collection with its 4.65 mm movement in a 8.24 mm case, which will appeal to a dynamic clientele with an equally self-assured penchant for classicism.
Picture supplied by: Jaeger-Le Coultre Jaeger-Le Coultre drew inspiration from the solar system and used a new celestial material in its Master Calendar in the form of a meteorite stone dial. Composed of a single block of meteorite discovered and officially registered in Sweden, the stone comes from the asteroid belt between Mars and Jupiter.
12 | Horlogerie
Picture supplied by: Vacheron Constantin Manufacture Vacheron Constantin unveils the seven first models of a new collection called Harmony with a new cushion shape and a design inspired by one of the brand’s first wristwatch chronographs introduced in 1928. Here is the Harmony Dual Time Caliber 2460DT
14 | Horlogerie
Dream of Panther Vincent Wulveryck Š Cartier
Pictures by: Laziz Hamani Š Cartier Ballon Bleu de Cartier 42 mm Vibrating Setting Watch Limited edition of 20 individually numbered timepieces 42mm case in rhodium-finish 18-carat white gold set with brilliant-cut diamonds
16 | Title Horlogerie
The Le Jour et La Nuit clock project, led jointly by Parmigiani Fleurier and Lalique, reflects the fusion of haute horlogerie with the purest jewellery and crystal-making expertise. The partnership has given rise to two table clocks, the Soleil de Gaïa clock and the Serpent clock, which depict the themes of Day and Night and each boast the very highest levels of craftsmanship.
The two pieces in the collection hark back to the many jewellery pieces created by René Lalique which illustrate the themes of Day and Night. With their Lalique crystal casing and watch dial created by Parmigiani Fleurier’s craftsmen, these pieces recreate an aesthetic that is rich in symbolism and history, paying homage to the master jewellers and watchmakers that are the foundations of the Maison’s heritage.
Pictures supplied by: Parmigiani Fleurier
18 | Horlogerie
Picture supplied by: www.vancleefarpels.com Carpe Koï watch bracelet Yellow gold dial, princess-cut diamonds, spessartite garnets, yellow sapphires. Quartz movement Bracelet: yellow gold, white gold, diamonds, yellow sapphires, spessartite garnets, Paraíba-like tourmalines, black spinels unique piece
Pictures supplied by: Stephen Graham
20 | Art/Design
PINS AN
W
ith a background in theatre, art, film, magazine styling and photoshoots South African artist Stephen Graham focuses on “experiential design”. His techniques include thickly layered, texturised acrylic paint, acrylic ink swirled with water, paper cutouts, sketches and also “pin art”, using office pins and Swarovski crystal to create 3D sculptural pop art images.
1
HOW DID YOU COME UP WITH THE USE OF PINS?
I was at the Joburg Art Fair and I started to think of those office toys from the 90s, you know, those ones that you pushed your hand into and it formed a shape.
2
HOW DID SWAROVSKI CRYSTALS FIND THEIR WAY INTO YOUR WORK?
There were originally no crystals and then I thought: How can I colour and shade the works without painstakingly painting each pin head? What can I add to it to make it valuable before I sell it? The crystals are more beautiful in reality as they are threedimensional and pick up on light and reflections.
3
WHAT INSPIRES YOU WITH YOUR PIN ARTWORK?
I love Pop Art and Andy Warhol and will use the same image in four different colours like him, then sell the work as a set. I like a recognizable image with a basic silhouette, like a shoe or a duck. I play with the same images but never do the same work twice. Everyday objects become glamorous and the use of coloured crystal makes something very modern and edgy.
4
WHAT SIZE CRYSTALS DO YOU USE?
I use an SS7 pinhead size and can use different sizes to get texture. I shade with colours like Siam for the light areas and use darker colours so there are gradations from light to dark.
5
THE NAMES OF YOUR WORKS ARE VERY QUIRKY AND ORIGINAL …
I use the titles as a form of social commentary and try to play with words. They are tongue in cheek but are intended to spark questions in the viewer’s mind.
The lips are called “Read My Lips” – I want the viewer to react and question what this is about. And I have fun with the names. For example, the pink gun is called “Calamity Jane”. I name all the guns after movie characters. People say, how can you have a picture of a gun in your living room, but the gun become a thing of beauty, an ornament. I called the icecream picture “Stone Cold”. Even my skulls become personified – I called one of them “Yorick”. People say my hearts are similar to those of Jim Dine but my treatment of them depends on my mood.
6
I CAN SEE FROM YOUR ART THAT YOU USE SKULLS AND BIRDS A LOT.
There is a darkness there that belies the bright colours. Those birds remind me of the famous Hitchcock movie… I love Hitchcock because he was an artist/director who knew all about timing. I like dark birds surrounded by bright colour and I use unexpected shades for my skulls, like a bright pink.
7 8
HOW MUCH DO YOU SELL THE PIN ART FOR? They can cost up to R35 000, crystal is an expensive material to work with.
ARE THE DIFFERENCES BETWEEN WORKING WITH PINS AND WITH ACRYLIC INK?
I am a Virgo so I am very structured and neat. The pins are very precise. Everything is equidistant and level. I draw a grid, which allows me to work out the position of the pins, and use a thimble to push them in. When I work in acrylic ink I don’t have so much control and I like the unpredictability of the medium. The painting is very expressive and the ink goes everywhere. I paint with a lot of water and use a paper towel.
9
WHAT ABOUT YOUR ACRYLIC PAINT PIECES?
It is about impasto and texture for me. You can almost touch the painting. I am experimenting with longer brush strokes instead of short ones at the moment.
ND PAINT
Pictures supplied by: Stephen Graham
22 | Art/Design
Q&A 10
Lip Series
I AM STRUCK BY HOW BRIGHT THE COLOURS OF YOUR PAINTINGS ARE!
I actually hate colour but I paint in it because it brings my work to life. I like working in a bright space and this way I have colour around me every day.
11
AND YOUR SWAROVSKI?
COLLABORATION
WITH
Swarovski is a brilliant product and I am actually a partner of their brand, I can brand my work with their logo. Pairing with their company gives me tremendous credibility.
I would never use any other stone. The stones change from the different angle you look at them and this plus the lighting affects the work.
12
TELL ME ABOUT YOUR OTHER WORK: ANY PAST OR UPCOMING EXHIBITIONS?
A hotel group in the Maldives, Gilli Lankanfushi, commissioned me to do 50 pictures of dolphins and starfish for their guests as Christmas gifts two years running. Besides exhibiting in Cape Town I have also contributed to group exhibitions at In Toto Gallery in Joburg and in May this year my sculpture and painting will be on at the Alliance Francaise, in collaboration with iBi Art which is owned by Isa Schwartz.
Afrcan Unicorn
Calamity Jane
Bleeding Love
Swarovski is a brilliant product and I am actually a partner of their brand, I can brand my work with their logo. Pairing with their company gives me tremendous credibility.
Pictures supplied by: Stephen Graham
24 | Art/Design
I love Pop Art and Andy Warhol and will use the same image in four different colours like him, then sell the work as a set.
Picture supplied by: Š Cartier White gold necklace, rock crystal, onyx, emeralds, diamonds Tania & Vincent Š Cartiert
Picture supplied by: IWC
26 | Watchmaking
THE WATCH MAKER, PAST
T
he stereotypical image of the Swiss watch maker of yesteryear bent over his work bench in a white coat, with his tools, lamp and eye glass, has given way to some of the most sophisticated technology on the market used to assemble complicated components inside a line of luxury watches in an almost clinically sterile laboratory environment.
In-house movements and high complications such as the minute repeater, the tourbillon and the perpetual calendar are becoming increasingly more complex and innovations such as power reserves and diving watches are some of the newer innovations in modern watches. However, the craftsmanship and tradition of yesteryear still underpin today’s watches. Handcrafting a fine timepiece is a time honoured skill and modern watch makers combine many classical features with modern technology. With each new explosion of knowledge and the ever changing face of the watch world, the master watchmaker is still the heart of the operation. Legendary watch maker Kurt Klaus has been in the business for over 50 years and was responsible for many of the most important technical developments of the International Watch Company (IWC). Kurt studied watch making from 1951 until 1955 in Solothurn, which is near the border between the German and French speaking parts of Switzerland. Then he got a job at the Eterna factory before deciding to go back to eastern Switzerland to work for IWC. The 1970s nearly killed the watch industry and the working week for many watch makers was reduced to just four days a week. This did not stop Kurt from creating a new watch with a moon phase based on a pocket watch design in 1976, which sold like hot cakes at the Basel fair. He also came up with the perpetual calendar with moonphase and easy-to-use crown settings, both radical ideas back in the 1980s, as well as the Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Edition Kurt Klaus. Kurt’s innovations and designs led to a repositioning of the company and today, retired after a long and illustrious career, he works with the manufacture’s young engineers at the IWC’s modern gleaming headquarters in Schaffhausen which overlook the waters of the Rhine, combining his experience with their new technologies. He also travels the world as a technical ambassador for IWC.
since he was a watchmaker. “There are two parts in watch making, the production and finishes of the parts which are today done by machine, and the handicraft, which remains the same, as all the IWC movements are assembled by hand. “I started to learn in 1951 and today when I look at the watch makers in our manufacture they perform exactly the same as I did. They have some new tools and more comfort than I had but the essentials have not changed.” He is right about the comfort. The air quality in the IWC headquarters West wing is similar to an operating theatre. Anti-dust and anti-dirt airlock systems have been installed, the temperature is kept constant and the watchmakers’ area must be one of the cleanest surfaces on earth, with each tool arranged with military precision. Visitors must wear slip-on shoe covers and dust coats. The balance is one of the most important components in a watch and the active length of the balance springs is still counted by hand, as it has been done for centuries, as no machine, no matter how carefully calibrated, can reproduce the sensitivity and dexterity of the human touch. Hand finishing and decorative arts are also still very much part of the watch maker’s domain. The human eye is also needed to scrutinise the components, some of them of infinitesimal scale, within the case. “Our fingers are our most important tools,” Kurt says, expressively moving his fingertips. “Our eyes are only the second most important tool. A watchmaker can always use a microscope or an eye glass but the feeling in the fingers - for this there is no instrument, a watchmaker has to feel with his fingertips. Either a watchmaker has this feeling or he does not, it comes from inside and cannot be learnt.” He tries to illustrate this by conducting watch making classes for customers and consumers, using a pocket watch movement which he reassembles and feels with his fingertips. It must be a strain on the eyes to work so closely and I ask him if you have to take frequent rests. Turns out the watch makers of old used only one eye to work with, either the left or right, but Kurt worked with both eyes.
Every year this gently smiling, modest watch maker attends the SIHH in Geneva where the IWC booth attracts the watch cognoscenti of the world, celebrities and press.
What are the differences between being a watchmaker today and being one 50 years ago, I ask him.
I ask him what it must have been like to celebrate half a century in the industry and how things have progressed
“In my time if you were a good skilled watchmaker you did the sketches then the prototypes. But today the
T, PRESENT AND FUTURE
Picture supplied by: IWC
28 | Watchmaking
modernised process is different. First you study watch making for four years then you study engineering. The two go hand and hand. “One person no longer does everything - people work in teams.” “A watchmaker is quite micro-mechanical. In the first year I had to make my tools myself, for example a turning machine when I had to mill something. So what tools did he make for himself? “A watch maker needs a lot of tools, not just screwdrivers, needles for example. Sometimes he works with 100 tools and needs to make some, like needles for example.” Learning watch making is a slow process and only after four years can a novice assemble or repair a watch movement. It takes even longer to be able to create a new watch and to create new movements, as he did. I want to know from Kurt: is there a distinction between watch engineering and watch making? “Watch engineering means to create new mechanisms, while watch making is to assemble the parts,” he tells me. We look at the case of the new IWC Aquatimer as an example; it’s very technical as there are between 60 and 80 parts just in the case, and many more parts inside the watch itself. I ask Kurt if he were a young watch maker in today’s world, would he find it quite daunting? He replies: “When I was young we never created complicated watches. In 1967 IWC brought out their first Aquatimer which was much less complicated than the 2014 version, for example there was only one turning ring for the diving time.” Seems there is a lot of pressure on youngsters coming into the field. The popular perception is that watch making skill is in Swiss DNA so it has proved a highlight for journalists that Kurt’s granddaughter was also a watch maker and joined him to make prototypes of his new developments before she had to leave to have a family. But perhaps creating a whole new generation of watch makers is just as important a task as making the watches! Kurt comes from the same era as Roger Dubuis, the only founder/watch maker of a brand, and Walter Lange, who revived the German A. Lange & Söhne watch brand. Is there ever rivalry between watchmakers, I ask him? “It is such a small industry, almost like a family so it is very respectful and there is no conflict,” he replies. So where does he see one of Switzerland’s most successful industries going in the future? “I did my job during all those years and I think it will continue as today as I am always an optimist.”
30 | Montblanc
NEW FACE OF
Picture by: www.montblanc.com
F MONTBLANC M
onaco royal Charlotte Casiraghi was announced as the new global brand ambassador of luxury brand Montblanc at this year’s Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie.
This equestrian champion, philanthropist, writer and producer will appear in Montblanc’s forthcoming advertising campaign, as she takes on the role of worldwide ambassador for the luxury Maison’s timepieces, jewellery and writing instruments. Like her grandmother, Princess Grace of Monaco, and her mother Princess Caroline, the elegant Charlotte possesses beauty and a distinctive sense of style. Qualities that will be highlighted in Montblanc’s upcoming campaign for its Bohème Collection – elegant and timeless watches, jewellery and writing instruments designed for the self-confident, independent and stylish contemporary Bohème lady. A philosophy graduate of the Sorbonne in Paris, Charlotte has demonstrated her journalistic skills contributing to leading international publications, and her entrepreneurial flair co-founding a magazine and a production company. A committed philanthropist, she regularly lends her support to charitable organizations in Monaco and beyond. Montblanc International CEO Jérôme Lambert said: “We are delighted to welcome Charlotte Casiraghi into the Montblanc family. She perfectly represents the Bohème lady of today, with her charming combination of style and substance. Her beauty, allure and charisma are matched by her fascinating personality and her many accomplishments, from sport to business or philanthropy. She displays all the attributes of the contemporary Bohème lady: independent, sophisticated, inspired, talented and pioneering with an uncompromising commitment to perfection in everything she does.” Global Brand Ambassador Charlotte Casiraghi said of her new role: “I am thrilled to be collaborating with Montblanc, a luxury brand that stands for outstanding European craftsmanship, excellence in design and the finest quality pieces. With its heritage of sophistication, Montblanc excels at creating enduring pieces with a truly distinctive contemporary yet timeless style. The Maison is also committed to the advancement of arts and culture, and has been on many occasions an active supporter of Arts.
32 | Food
THE FOOD
Picture supplied by: Absa Champagne Festival
D OF L VE E
very day should be dedicated to love – the love of food. Some of South Africa’s finest chefs explore ingredients reputed to have aphrodisiac qualities - and come up with wonderful culinary ideas!
TRUFFLES Chantel Dartnall, chef at Restaurant Mosaic at the Orient and Eat Out’s Chef of the Year 2014, says: “French gourmand Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin described truffles as ‘the diamond of the kitchen,’ and I can wholeheartedly concur with him.” Chantel recently returned from a trip overseas and packed in her luggage was a treasure trove of white Alba truffles and black Perigord truffles that she bought in Italy. “I am currently using my truffles in my new dish, Millionaire’s Nest Egg which consists of quail eggs, black truffle paste, courgette and fresh black truffle slices.” OYSTERS Philippe Wagenfuhrer of EAT restaurant has some mouthwatering ideas: “I love oysters and would serve them as dish of six oysters served six different ways on a long platter. “Firstly, a tempura of oysters with cured cucumber and yuzu, next oysters au gratin with a sharp Gruyere sauce, flavoured with truffle oil and gratinated. “Thirdly, fresh oysters with a touch of lime and chilli, fourthly, oysters with a ceviche dressing. Then comes smoked oysters with buttered saffron mash and, lastly, oysters done Provençale-style with tomato, thyme, black olives and olive oil.” TOMATOES Chef David Higgs of 500 at The Saxon has an entire Valentine’s Day menu in mind, typically using fresh produce from his herb and vegetable garden. “A floral Valentine’s feast bursting with summer flavours: garden marrows with ripe Heirloom tomatoes and flowers, followed by beef and breads with spice, then textured watermelon with Karoo cheese and a medley of Campari and raspberries for dessert.” SUMMER FRUITS Luke Dale Roberts of The Test Kitchen can work magic with seasonal fruit: “The combination of nectarine, strawberry and rose work really well together in a crumble.
Picture supplied by: Knysna Oyster Festival
34 | Food
I love oysters and would serve them as dish of six oysters served six different ways on a long platter.
“I love the fact that roses and nectarines are available in the same season. On occasion I go down to the local Chart Farm in Wynberg to gather fresh roses. “With these ingredients I would sweat off diced nectarine in butter and a bit of sugar and cook them down with white wine, cut strawberries and rose petals. Served with cardamom crumble and vanilla custard, this makes a delicious summer dish. “Both nectarines and strawberries are rich in antioxidants and vitamin C.” CHAMPAGNE Chef Jacqui Brown, who is known as a ‘champagne chef’ who can create a meal using champagne in every dish believes: “A great recipe for true romance begins with a glass of champagne. “Add a hint of sweet luscious strawberries, then seal with a kiss….” Two beautiful new roses for Jacqui to play with are: VEUVE CLICQUOT ROSÉ “SCREAM YOUR LOVE” Champagne and love have always been a happy pair and as with most romantics, Veuve Clicquot likes to express its feelings - sometimes in surprising ways. With the Veuve Clicquot Rosé Scream Your Love megaphone, Veuve Clicquot and its “zeste de folie” celebrate love in the most audacious way possible. In Japan, where culture is said to be more emotionally reserved, the powerful Scream Your Love campaign was born. Men who had difficulty expressing their feelings to their partners were given a forum, a stage, and a megaphone to scream their love. The Love Your Wives Day on Japanese television quickly became an annual tradition, precipitating Valentine’s Day and encouraging men to declare their appreciation in an inspired way. Veuve Clicquot, ever the expressive brand, adhered immediately to the concept of affectionate shouting. With innovation and enthusiasm, Veuve Clicquot has designed the reusable Scream Your Love gift which can serve as a waterproof ice bucket, or be converted into a lover’s megaphone. With inspired spontaneity, this Valentine’s Day, champagne is now as lovely to hear as it is to drink! Gift set (bottle & two glasses) will be available from leading liquor merchants nationwide from the beginning of February 2015 from: R849.95 Picture supplied by: Blubird Organic Market
36 | Food MOËT ROSÉ IMPÉRIAL ‘UNFURL THE TIE’ The Moët & Chandon black tie has elegantly dressed the Maison’s legendary champagne bottles since 1886, and in 2015 it will take on a stylish new demeanour. Moët Rosé Impérial Unfurl the Tie proposes a chic new way to enjoy and share the famed Moët Rosé Impérial: an elegant moment with a significant other, a glamorous occasion with our friends, or a joyful get-together with family and loved ones! Moët Rosé Impérial Unfurl the Tie features a stylish rounded case that pirouettes open to reveal a bottle of Moët Rosé Impérial and its new elegant ‘Toasting Tie’ stand. The stand reinvents the Moët & Chandon tie as a bold and eye-catching new service ritual that holds four delicately stemmed, footless champagne flutes. Vibrantly suited in pink and black with elegant leather accents, Moët Rosé Impérial Unfurl the Tie perfectly reflects the delicate yet bold nuances embodied in the Maison’s rosé champagne. Available from leading liquor merchants nationwide from the beginning of February from: R2999.95 CHOCOLATE Lindt master chocolatier, Dimo Simatos, loves using liquid chocolate: “It can be transformed into any shape and any texture imaginable, it pairs well with almost everything and is an ever changing medium. “Chocolate can be used not only in desserts but also in savoury dishes. The trend in Europe is to use high cocoa percentage chocolate and specifically raw cocoa butter in savoury dishes, as well to glaze, fry and add texture in mousses. “Some desserts are substituting gelatine for cocoa butter and chocolate as a setting agent.” His favourite chocolate desserts are a well-made 70 % Chocolate Soufflé or Lindt’s 70 % Ecuador chocolate gelato. CHILLIES Deena Naidoo, former Masterchef SA winner and owner of Aarya restaurant: “Because of my heritage I grew up using a lot of spices incorporating chilli. This is a spice which is phenomenal if used in the right proportion. Certain dishes, like my garlic stir fry prawns, require just a hint of chilli, because prawn is very delicate and has its own character. “How you use chilli is a measure of how experienced a cook you are - you should taste chilli at the end of a mouthful, rather than at the beginning. “I grew up thinking that the heat of the chilli is in the seeds, but if you butterfly a chilli and look at the white veins inside, the veins contain a substance that give the heat. “I use dried chillies very sparingly in curries because the taste is so concentrated but my favourite type of chilli is fresh green chillies, finely sliced.”
Pictures supplied by: Manley Communications
I love the fact that roses and nectarines are available in the same season. On occasion I go down to the local Chart Farm in Wynberg to gather fresh roses – Luke Dale Roberts
Pictures supplied by: MoĂŤt et Chandon
38 | Food
Available from leading liquor merchants nationwide from the beginning of February from: R2999.95
40 | Title
It can be transformed into any shape and any texture imaginable, it pairs well with almost everything and is an ever changing medium – Dimo Simatos
Picture supplied by: Lindt SA
Picture supplied by: Blubird Organic Market
How you use chilli is a measure of how experienced a cook you are - you should taste chilli at the end of a mouthful, rather than at the beginning – Deena Naidoo
Pictures supplied by: Mosaic at The Orient
42 | Food
“I am currently using my truffles in my new dish, Millionaire’s Nest Egg which consists of quail eggs, black truffle paste, courgette and fresh black truffle slices.”
44 | Shopping
Dolce & Gabbana Red The One, limited edition. Ladies fragrance 75ml, R1530.00. Men’s fragrance 100ml, R1255.00. Hero.
Emporio Armani Ceramica AR5995 water resistant watch, in brown leather and rose gold. The Watch Republic. R5699.00
Cavalinho red suede shoes, made in Portugal. R3500.00. Elegant Man.
Pictures by: Dylan le Roux 18ct rose gold pendant with heart-shaped amethyst with mother of pearl and brilliant cut diamonds R38 720. Matching earrings R 52 685. Matching ring R 40 675. One –off special pieces from Vienna Jewellers.
Freya lingerie bra (R725.00) and panties (R395.00). Barclay & Clegg. Veuve Clicquot RosĂŠ champagne. Woolworths. R495.00
46 | Menswear
Pictures supplied by: Louis Vuitton
A PAEAN TO FASHION PION
T
he recent Louis Vuitton Menswear Collection AutumnWinter 2015/2016 is a paean to the visionary spirit of London, Tokyo and Paris, and to one of fashion’s foremost pioneers: Christopher Nemeth.
“I think Christopher Nemeth is the most important designer to come out of London alongside Vivienne Westwood,” says Kim Jones, the men’s artistic Director of Louis Vuitton.
“He is Savile Row, he is the street, he is the club … his designs define London. He trained as a fine artist and came into fashion from being an illustrator, and that chimes with how I started. I can see the influence of his work in so many collections, and yet it is not often acknowledged and still seems unknown to many. That’s why, as we approach the fifth anniversary of his death, I wanted to openly celebrate Christopher Nemeth’s life and work this season at Louis Vuitton.”
NEER CHRISTOPHER NEMETH
Self-taught in pattern cutting, Christopher Nemeth utilised the canvas he would paint on, as well as discarded post sacks and reconfigured old suiting. Each became distinct signatures of his nascent “deconstructed” style, a style revolutionary in clothing that was itself indivisible from his art practice. Christopher Nemeth’s clothes defined the spirit of London from the beginning to the mid-eighties; the make-do-and-mend attitude, the eschewing of “labels”, the self-actualised creativity of rebellious “home-craft” were all part and parcel of a London in the throes of recession and Hard Times.
Pictures supplied by: Louis Vuitton
48 | Menswear
“He is Savile Row, he is the street, he is the club ‌ his designs define London. He trained as a fine artist and came into fashion from being an illustrator, and that chimes with how I started. I can see the influence of his work in so many collections, and yet it is not often acknowledged and still seems unknown to many.
Picture supplied by: The Intertrade Group
50 | Perfume
LOVE POTION N
NUMBER... MINE S
cent is an elusive medium that is one of the riddles of the universe. Like smoke, it is invisible, yet it can be “seen”. It is silent, but it can be heard. It has no voice, yet it can speak to us of many things: of emotions, memories and the otherworldly.
While the mass market will always remain a multi-billion dollar industry, perfume today is less about trend and more about zeitgeist. The perfumer as artist provokes, challenges and explores new frontiers. He does this with new ingredients, new ways of exploring and new methods of capturing and examining various scents. The world’s top fragrance fairs see the best noses in the business creating this kind of conceptual olfactory art. For example, in 2014 eight of the greatest international noses committed themselves to finding the ultimate scent of passion in a unique experimental project, UNSCENT 2014 - LOVE MAGIC POTIONS. The olfactory art project debuted at international fragrance fair Pitti Fragranze in Florence and the perfumers hand-picked by Celso Fadelli, CEO of the Italian-based perfumers Intertrade Group, to develop signature scents were Cécile Hua, Ralf Schwieger, Cyrill Rolland, Celine Ripert, Christian Vermorel, Alex Lee, Arturetto Landi and Vanina Muracciole. The one-off love potions explored the fragrance of passion – the good, the bad and the tearful – and followed on the success of the Intertrade Group’s signature conceptual UNSCENT installations as well as its unique instore approach at its five Avery Perfume Galleries around the world that sets out to make the multifaceted experience of smell come alive. “Scent is the most important sense in memory creation and experience. Our sense of smell is unique and mysterious and is a fundamental aspect of love, life and desire,” said Fadelli. The project went on to make its debut in South Africa at the SA Fashion Week, thanks to its director, the fashion forward Lucilla Booyzen. The installation also introduced some of the other new perfumery ideas from the Intertrade Group as well as its existing stable of limited edition perfume brands that included: Acqua di Stresa - fragrances from the Italian lakes; Agonist - evocative of Scandinavia; Azagury - refined elegance; Boadicea The Victorious - heady, victorious fragrances dedicated to the legendary Celtic Queen; Blood Concept - vital saps and blood aromas; Czech & Speake - a quintessentially British twist; Couto - a nostalgic revisit of this classic toothpaste formula; Diane Pernet - the distinct signature of this fashion icon; Automobili Lamborghini - the power of L1; Re Profumo - the classical decadence of Venice; Roads - inspirations, places and paths in life; S-Perfume - Japanese art and culture inspired by the artist Nobi Shioya; soOud - the essences and nectars of East meets West; Santa Eulalia - the new fragrance brand evocative of the impeccable fashion glamour of Barcelona.
Picture supplied by: The Intertrade Group
52 | Perfume
In addition, world-renowned fashion critic and video journalist Diane Pernet, who is based in Paris and created four fragrances with the Intertrade Group last year, has now created, with the direction of Mike Figgis, four short movies dedicated to her fragrances. Diane produced a series of short fashion movies dedicated to the fragrances, directed by the Oscar-nominated British director and styled by fashion editor Tina Leung, to debut online with the launch at Liberty. The project presents a vision of beauty pollinated by cinema and music, with a gaze towards fashion. Each movie is inspired by Mike’s experience of the perfumes, which all capture an intimate aspect of Diane Pernet’s persona: secret desires, the quest for happiness, the pleasure of being worshipped, the power of truth.
“Scent is the most important sense in memory creation and experience. Our sense of smell is unique and mysterious and is a fundamental aspect of love, life and desire,”
The four fragrances are: the woody To be Honest, the oriental Wanted, the citrusy In pursuit of Magic and the ocean-fresh Shaded. The sleek design of the bottle is adorned with one of her iconic symbols: the spider, exclusively created for her by designer Mario Salvucci.
Then there is the “scent bar� where consumers can have a scent personally tailored to fit their personality and needs. These have infiltrated top department stores like Saks Fifth Avenue and Harrods, where niche perfumes make up the bulk of revenue.
Leaving high art aside, the world of perfume is exploding and as the UNSCENT installation shows, the lines available tend towards the signature and the niche, the unexplored.
While our grandmothers rushed out to buy a bottle of perfume favoured by their favourite movie star, today’s woman or man can play with a host of ingredients to suit him or herself and personalise a scent.
A niche brand offers originality and higher concentrations of perfume extracts, as well as more natural ingredients. After all, who wants to smell just like everyone else?
The current trends for women are rhubarb, mint and tea for spring and summer, as well as traditional floral fragrances like lilac, jasmine, wild flowers, tulip, lily and peony.
The big houses are rising to the challenge with limited editions created by their inhouse noses.
Men on the other hand tend towards oud, which is still enjoying huge success, and leather will always be a popular male choice.
Pictures supplied by: The Intertrade Group
54 | Perfume
Luxury hotels are scentscaping, creating mood through fragrance, using a signature scent throughout their hotel to create a resonance within their clients. It adds an olfactory dimension to their experiences. It is a brave new world for fragrance, an exciting one that is exploding with possibility.
Scent is an elusive medium that is one of the riddles of the universe. Like smoke, it is invisible, yet it can be “seen�. It is silent, but it can be heard. It has no voice, yet it can speak to us of many things: of emotions, memories and the otherworldly
56 | Beauty
BEAUTY DE LUXE
Giorgio Armani Si eau de toilette. A floral, lighter interpretation of the original Si fragrance that pays tribute to modern femininity. Delicate notes of blackcurrant and green pear blend beautifully with May rose and musky blonde woods. (Available March).
Sisley Black Rose Precious Face Oil. Formulated with 5 plant-based actives that soften and nourish the skin whilst boosting moisture levels. A few drop of this elixir, morning and evening, leaves skin smoother, softer and more toned. R2265.00
R995.00 for 50ml
Filorga Perfect + perfect Skin Serum (available at selected Edgars and Red Square stores) This serum works hard to refine the skin’s texture and tighten pores while giving the complexion a healthy, golden glow. Natural exfoliants derived from fruit acids gently slough away dead skin cells, while a gentle astringent constricts pores. R865.00
Candice Lee Kannemeyer is a fashion & beauty obsessed writer, stylist and personal shopper. Candice spent the last 15 years working as a specialist fashion & beauty editor on titles like FAIRLADY, SARIE, Destiny and True Love.
Candice also has her own fashion & beauty blog, called www.inmybag.co.za. Here she shares all her fashion and beauty knowledge gained over the years, and blogs about new products and innovations in beauty.
Pictures supplied by: Various Cosmetic Brands Chanel Creation Exclusive Jardin de Chanel. A limited edition blusher embossed with Madame Coco’s favourite flower, the Camellia. Lightly dust a little this precious powder onto the apples of the cheeks to give them a gorgeous glow. R665.00
Lancôme Visionnaire Yeux Advanced Eye Contour Perfecting Corrector. This eye treatment works to eliminate dark circles, wrinkles and unevenness. The formula contains Haloxyl and caffeine that reduce surface wrinkles whilst invisible, dark-circle-correcting pigments reduce shadows under the eyes. (Available March) R699.00
Picture supplied by: BMW
58 | Luxury Motoring
TREMENDOU
I keep it no secret that I am a fan of BMW. Their evolution over the past decade has been somewhat astounding. From sink-in-your-seat, pocket rocket, M-range speed machines to the go-anywhere and do-anything, gutsy X-rage SUVs, BMW knows how to cater to a market hungry for more. And they are not quite done yet. By Kevin Taylor
US TOURING
60 | Luxury Motoring
T
he ‘premium compact’ is a class of vehicle I find dreary. There is not much – in terms of design aesthetic – that manufacturers can do to make these types of cars look sexy. We all know they are designed for the family type with plenty of space for those odd sundries, the four Vuitton luggage pieces and kid’s bicycles – training wheels included. For years their functionality has always come before any kind of serious design input, and rightfully so. But in true BMW fashion, this has all changed with the allnew 2 Series Active Tourer.
Finally, a vehicle exists in this segment that comes with all of the storage space, large cabin size and nooks to hide your bits and bobs, but that looks fantastic too. Classic BMW design makes the Active Tourer instantly recognisable, but forces a second glance as it is unlike any other Beemer on the road. Yes, it comes with the attributes of a family vehicle, but boasts incredible lines from the rather aggressive-looking front, complete with the trademark forward-slanting kidney grille, right the way through the body all the way to the rear, where lighting is perfectly sized and positioned. The A, B and C pillars also all work symbiotically to create a very sporty side angle, forcing the eye horizontally over the car from bonnet to boot, making it appear shorter and sportier than it really is. On the inside, a raised position for the driver and passenger means you sit at a higher position on the road than an ordinary sedan. It also means that for someone over six-foot – much like myself – getting in and out is a breeze. The Active Tourer’s long wheelbase and raised roofline results in an airy, spacious and un-cluttered cabin. Throw in the panoramic sunroof as an optional extra and an unadulterated feeling of nonclaustrophobia will have mom, dad, kids and pooch happy for hundreds of kilometres.
Pictures supplied by: BMW
Picture supplied by: BMW
62 | Luxury Motoring
As with any BMW, standards of safety and comfort are incomparable – augmented by an infotainment system known as ‘ConnectedDrive’. By downloading an app to your smartphone, you are instantly connected to the BMW ecosystem, giving you access to a concierge service, real-time traffic updates, entertainment and much more. Moreover, a nifty Head-Up display further proves BMW’s dedication to innovation. Not new to the motoring world, Head-Up displays have been around for some time, but a new, transparent screen is used in the Active Tourer as opposed to the data being projected directly onto the windscreen – enabling drivers to avoid removing their eyes from the road altogether. The 2 Series Active Tourer will be available in South Africa in four engine variants, all with their own unique attributes that I find makes them desirable in their own right. All are front-wheel drive, three or four cylinder engines. The entry-level 218i is an exciting three-cylinder engine and makes its debut to the BMW core brand. This engine provides an exciting and smooth drive across all gear ranges and is the most economical of the range. The 220i and 220d engines are both four cylinders, with the diesel variant offering a typical torquey kick, and the range-topping 225i takes full advantage of the newly developed chassis, offering drivers that exciting thrill of a 6,6-second zero to 100 km/h sprint. In fact, it is this new chassis that gives the Tourer immense stability and steering accuracy, inspiring
confidence in the driver through most road conditions. Each model comes with a host of driving qualities and attributes, with thanks to BMW’s exemplary ‘EfficientDynamics’, including their ‘EcoPro’ mode that monitors consumption and driver habits – notifying you when your right foot becomes too heavy. Six airbags as standard give it a five-star NCAP rating and you can customise additional safety options such as lane departure warnings and collision aversion through pre-emptive braking. The models are also available in Sport, Luxury and M variants – offering the driver unique qualities, tailoring and finishes throughout. The cabin is comfortable too – loaded with BMW’s renowned seats that offer supreme comfort. Fully adjustable rear seats allow you to configure the cabin to increase either leg or boot space, depending on what it is you are carrying – or how badly behaved the children have been! Once again, BMW has given a market crying out for something fresh, exciting and fun something to really enjoy both for longdistance driving and those quick trips around town. I believe the BMW 2 Series Active Tourer is a great family vehicle. It carries with it all of the sensibilities BMW has become known for – unique design, safety, luxury and comfort – and combines this with a well-priced people mover that looks good and drives exceptionally.
Length
4,312mm
Width
1,800mm
Height
1,555mm
Wheelbase
2,670mm
Luggage capacity
From 468 to 1,510 litres depending on seat configuration 218i
220i
220d
225i
Consumption (litres/100km)
5,1
6,0
4,5
5,9
CO2 Emissions (g/km)
118
140
117
138
Power (kW)
100
141
140
170
Torque (Nm)
220
280
400
350
Zero – 100km/h
9,2
7,5
7,6
6,6
Entry Price* (six speed manual)
R378,000
R401,000
R428,500
R447,000**
* **
Including 14% VAT, excluding CO2 Emissions Tax Eight speed Automatic Transmission Steptronic
Visit www.bmw.co.za for more information.
THE FUTUR 64 | Technology
POWER FLOWER
TECHNO-POOCH
Parrot Flower Power Sensor If you, like me, love plants but lack the inherent green-fingered abilities ever-present in some of our more botanical brethren, the Parrot Flower Power Sensor might come in handy. Place this gadget into either potted or ground soil for it to digitally monitor the four pillars of healthy plant life, namely sunlight, temperature, fertiliser, and moisture. Using Bluetooth, the Flower Power will then communicate with you through your smart device should your beloved Bougainvillea require some TLC. You can then administer the correct amount of water or fertiliser, or move the plant’s position for it to bathe in more or less sunlight. I’ll take one for each of my plants!
Whistle Activity Monitor Staying connected to your dog has never been easier with the Whistle Activity Monitor health tracker. Simply fix the tracker to Bruno the Bulldog’s collar and receive updates to your smartphone on his levels of activity…and not so much activity. The app assists you to optimise your pup’s health by analysing his play and resting levels and sets goals and challenges for him and you should he (or you) be on the lazier side of life. Pair this with a GoPro camera fixed to the nifty GoPro Fetch doggie harness (R800.00 available at www. outdoorphoto.co.za) and you will also have a visual update of where, when and what was chewed on, dug up or chased after. It’s a dog’s life!
Recommended Retail Price: R300 Available at: Selected Dion Wired stores nationwide Website: www.parrot.com
Recommended Retail Price: R1090.00 Website: www.whistle.com Available at: www.jawbone.com
RE IS NOW
BUT FIRST, LET ME TAKE A SELFIE
CAPPUCCINO SE IL VOUS PLAÎT!
Parrot AR Drone 2.0 Legalities surrounding airspace in South Africa aside, these drones are fun! Fly-by-smartphone technology allows you to control the Parrot AR Drone 2.0 with your very own iPhone and, what’s more – you can live stream whatever it is your are flying through, past, over, under or in front of directly to your smart device thanks to the built in 720p HD camera. AR.FreeFlight is the primary application used to control the drone – simply download it, connect via WiFi and the sky is the limit – literally. Different modes allow for easier flying and filming, like ‘Director Mode’ that enables a set of pre-installed movements making filming smoother and more controlled. Selfies have never been more enjoyable…watch out Instagram!
Victoria Arduino Venus Century Limited Edition Celebrating 100 years of Victoria Arduino, this French coffee giant has created just 100 numbered Venus Century espresso machines, and this exclusive find is certainly not for someone on an instant-coffee budget. Combining heritage with modern technology, the design may look historical but this espresso heavyweight packs a big 21st century punch, complete with digital control panel. Knobs made from mother of pearl and stainless steel complete a refined look. If it’s good enough for Pope Benedict, it’s good enough for us. Sip slowly!
Recommended Retail Price: R5,299.00 Available at: Incredible Connection, Smac (www.smac.co.za) and The Gadget Shop (www.thegadgetshop.co.za)
Recommended Retail Price: $20,000.00 (R230,000.00) Website: www.victoriaarduino.com Pictures supplied by: ???
Picture supplied by: ????????
66 | Technology
TECH TRAVELING Bluesmart Connected Travel Suitcase Running out of laptop power will be a thing of the past with the Bluesmart Internet connected travel suitcase. You can control your luggage from your smartphone via an app that allows you to track your case if lost, digitally weigh it before getting to the airport and get feedback about your travelling habits including distance traveled, airports visited and time spent at each destination. The app also allows you to lock the case from anywhere in the world and if you are running low on power, the suitcase has a charging port that will charge phones, tablets and eBooks six times over. With a 34-litre volume, it weighs only 3.8kg, and with small dimensions of 55 x 36 x 23cm, can be used as carry on. All aboard! Recommended Retail Price: $470.00 (R5,170.00) Online pre-order placement at: www.bluesmart.com
Delve into a world of the season’s most exciting technology gizmos, gadgets and trends. By Kevin Taylor
Kevin Taylor is a luxury aficionado with a penchant for fast cars and smart gadgetry. International travel also tops his list of most exciting things to do
68 | By Invitation 6
7
The L’Ormarins Queen’s Plate is one of the Cape’s foremost equestrian, fashion and social calendar events. With over 4000 people in attendance, guests were treated to a show both on and off the track. Anticipation ran higher than ever as the favourite, Legislate, geared up to defend his reputation, only to be defeated by Futura. Pictures supplied by: CSA Communications
70 | By Invitation
IWC Schaffhausen and around 800 prominent guests gathered to celebrate the 75th anniversary of the legendary Portugieser watch family at the 2015 Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) in Geneva. Guests and brand ambassadors who attended the gala evening included movie stars Emily Blunt, Christoph Waltz, Zhou Xun and Moritz Bleibtreu, filmmaker and screenwriter Marc Forster, sports personalities such as Lewis Hamilton, Nico Rosberg and LuĂs Figo, supermodels Adriana Lima and Karolina Kurkova and musicians Aloe Blacc, Ronan Keating and Mick Hucknall. Pictures and text by: www.iwc.com
72 | By Invitation
The latter was responsible for the evening’s musical highlights after Marco Tempest had transported the guests to the infinite depths of the universe through his hightech animations. The theme of the event was “Journey to the Stars”. Pictures and text by: www.iwc.com