The Link, Issue 23

The Voice of the AHLC

A SPECIAL SECTION:

4 READ ME FIRST: Message from The Board 27 Introduction 28 Panel Discussion 32 Trichology in the UK

FEATURES

6 9 11 14 16 21 22 23 34

Mentoring Your Staff 5 Tips for 5-Star Service Scalp Micropigmentation Welcome New Members The Fine Artistry of Alternative Hair Motivation to Create Back to Basics: A Quick Reference Guide The Inevitable Question: Part II AHLC Academy

Subscription Information:

Subscriptions to The Link, The Voice of the American Hair Loss Council are mailed FREE to members of the AHLC within the continental United States. International members are provided digital copies free. Please contact us for additional shipping rates if you are an AHLC member outside the US and wish to receive a printed edition.

To become a member, renew your membership please contact us 615.721.8085 or log on to www.AHLC.org.

Issue 23, Autumn 2017

3

The Voice of the AHLC

FROM THE BOARD: ACTION NEEDED! The American Hair Loss Council was founded in the 1980s in-part, as a way to combine our resources and challenge those in our industry who were making false claims, deliberately deceiving the public for their own profit or simply doing sub-par work. Because, let’s face it.

When the public sees terrible work, receives poor service or is taken advantage of, it affects us all.

We want to stress that we do not feel it is our duty to police the industry or try to impose some arbitrary “standard of excellence” that we all should aspire to.

Instead, we fully understand that our industry is at it’s best when we collectively determine what’s best for it. We self-regulate far better than most industries simply because it’s in our best interest to do so, and we’ve always done a pretty good job. We call these “best practices” and most of us they are second-nature.

As the Hair Restoration Industry’s only non-profit trade association, we do have a responsibility to our members and to the industry as a whole. But ultimately, we each are responsible to our clients and our customers; those suffering from hair loss. We all want the same thing and we each have a passion for it. To help the hair loss sufferer and to earn a living doing what we love, helping people.

With this responsibility in-mind, we do feel that it is the place of The American Hair Loss Council to start the conversation. To ask the hard questions and hear what the industry has to say. To “stand up and speak, and to sit down and listen.”

Today, there is a growing confusion in the marketplace.

Our customers are reporting it. Our members are struggling with it. Yet, it seems that nobody wants to talk about it. At the risk of mixing metaphors, we feel that it’s time to acknowledge the pink elephant in the room.

Traditionally, it took years of intense dedication and study to earn the title “Certified Trichologist.” Now, one may become certified by any number of official bodies, in as little as a few days. This, combined with the myriad of similar-sounding certifications currently offered only add to the confusion of the market. And as a result, people suffering with hair loss simply can no longer make an informed decision as to where to get help.

Meanwhile, those who have put in the years of necessary study are finding themselves in a frustrating situation, unnecessarily competing with technicians, armed with fresh certifications from a weekend class.

So, what do we do? What do you think? We’re listening...

Read pages 27-31 and take our online survey to tell us what you think.

We’ll report our findings Join the Conversation: in the next issue of The WWW.BIT.LY/TRICHOSURVEY Link Magazine.

4 Issue 23, Autumn 2017

The Link, The Voice of the American Hair Loss Council is the official, quarterly publication of the American Hair Loss Council. For information on advertising or contributing to content, please contact us: The American Hair Loss Council 30 South Main, Shenandoah, PA 17976 615.721.8085 or info@ahlc.org

The Link Staff:

Editor: Janine Thornhill Design and Layout: Thornhill Creative Creative Director: Terrell Thornhill

Thanks to Our Contributors:

Bill Blatter, President, HLCC, , Board of Directors, Us Trichology Institute, Latham, NY Karla Hurtado, Business Development Manager, Hair Visions International, Ft. Lauderdale, FL Kelli L. Bray Joiner, Marketing Project & Events Specialist, Columbus, OH Michael Leigh, President, Joli Caméléon™, Westlake Village, CA Lindsey Reinke, Technical Services Manager & Educator, IHI Aderans Hair Goods, Inc., Eden Prairie, MN Leslie Robinson, Patient Coordinator/CEO, Mane Image, Merrillville, IN Sherri Renée Romm, Founder, Sherri Renée & Co., Owings Mills, MD Bobbi Russell, WTS Certified Trichologist, AHLC Certified Master, Owner, Hair Therapy for Women, Tampa, FL Sally-Ann Tarver, MIT.FTTS, The Cotswold Trichology Centre, Cottswold, England Mark Weston, Owner, M. Weston Non-Surgical Hair Restoration, Long Boat Key, FL Patti Wood, USTI, WTS Certified Trichologist, Owner Off 5th Salon, Bradenton, FL

AHLC Board of Directors Peggy Thornhill, President Joseph Ellis, Vice President Susan Kettering, Executive Director Betty Ann Bugden, Treasurer Marsha Scott, Past President The opinions expressed in The Link, The Voice of the American Hair Loss Council are those of the authors and do not necessarily reflect the views of the American Hair Loss Council. The advertisements in The Link do not necessarily reflect the beliefs, opinions or attitudes of the AHLC and does not imply product or service endorsement.

The American Hair Loss Council © All rights reserved.

Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is prohibited. Published for the AHLC by Thornhill Creative. www.thornhillcreative.com

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The Voice of the AHLC

Mentoring Your Staff Investments That Really Last Leslie Robinson, Mane Image, Merrillville, IN

A

s with many of Generation Xers, I too came from parents of divorce. I don’t see this as a bad turn of events, because it helped me to be more driven and independent. When I was little my father frequently traveled for work. When he was home and it came to home repairs he was not the handiest unless duct tape was involved. So not only was my mom (Sharon Suchak) baking cookies and taking my sisters and I to Girl Scouts, she was replacing ceiling fans, hanging blinds, cleaning out clogged plumbing and doing hair in the kitchen with me by her side. I have fond memories of her creative spirit while making people happy with their new look.

When my parents divorced my mom joined the corporate offices of John Amico and traveled opening and training new Hair Performers franchisees. As a teenager, it was so much fun for me as I watched my mom and her willingness to share her knowledge with other young women. My summers were the best because I could travel to these salons with my mom and sit back, watch and listen. Sometimes I even was the model for the hair styling. My mom took all these experiences and used them to fulfill her dream of owning her own business.

I have always been goal oriented, competitive, creative and a dreamer.

At 17 my mom took me in to work as a receptionist then to work at Mane Image. All along the way she emotionally supported me and encouraged me. She taught me that if you’re a good person, treat people with love and respect, listen to their wants and desires, then fulfill their goals and dreams you will be a success and the financial freedom with follow. I took over Mane Image in 2004.

6 Issue 23, Autumn 2017

I have taken on the privilege of mentoring my all female staff. I give them the tools to be self-sufficient, strong, individual women. From fixing clogged pipes, to creating a beautiful human hair system, my staff can do anything.

When a female comes in with thinning hair and is shy, crying, and feeling ugly and unloved, my staff and I rally around her to support her. When her makeover is complete we take photos of her for her to see the beauty that was inside her now shows on the outside too. Creating beautiful hair makes long lasting memories and friendships.

I have structured my business to focus on priorities; God, family, then work, in that order. I believe for a woman to be successful in today’s business atmosphere she has to have a healthy balance in her life. This means it can’t all be work. I value my employees time with their kids and family. I am always conscious of giving them the respect and feeling of pride to take personal days so as to not miss an important moment in their family’s lives. My staff and I travel for education, we have provided classes for self-defense, financial planning, and in-house for continuing education.

We celebrate each staff member’s birthday with presents and cake. We provide a paid week off between Christmas and New Year’s, a week during July 4th, and 5 days at Thanksgiving. This enables our staff quality family time.

We hold regular open houses and women’s seminars for the public to come in and learn about hair loss solutions. We also have multiple days throughout the year where we do professional photo shoots

of our clients. This gives our staff the opportunity to showcase their work.

I structure their pay to help them not have to depend on others for their well-being. Each is able to contribute to a pension, securing their future as women. They also receive a commission on retail products they sell, including wigs. This motivates them and we all benefit from it.

My staff and I have a democracy. Any changes in their work environment is decided by all of us. Let’s face it we spend 40 hours a week together work is our home. I provide my staff a safe respectful environment to excel in. We are so fortunate to have the opportunity as women in this country to be whatever we desire. I am so grateful that I have been able and will continue to fuel the fire in my staff and customers hearts. I hug my staff regularly and tell them they are needed and appreciated. I truly feel women should be uplifting to each other at all times.

When women put their minds together great things happen.

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The Voice of the AHLC

TIPS for

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Lindsey Reinke, Technical Services Manager Educator, International Hair Goods

I have amazing opportunity to visit a wide range of hair replacement studios. From single studios to large hair replacement centers I have seen some of the best... and the worst.

I put together my top 5 tips for simple ways to make sure you are providing your guest with the best!

1 Cleanliness is Key

Guests want to see you care about the place they are investing their money, show them that you value their business but keeping it clean. Overflowing trash cans, dusty shelves and hair are the biggest offenders. Set aside time each day for a quick clean, if you do it daily the mess won’t pile up.

2 Keep it Current

We are in a beauty industry and with that comes keeping up with the current trends. Take a look around your salon. When was the last time you changed the images on your walls? What about your décor? How about the magazines in your waiting area? If they are older than two months toss them, especially the beauty ones. Our guests rely on us to be the experts on current styles!

3 Be an Example

As we know wearing hair, especially the first time, can be an anxiety-inducing situation. The easiest way to normalize the experience is to show them how you wear hair! Even if you don’t typically wear hair have a small unit made for yourself so you can show your guest how well color can blend, or how it goes on with clips, etc.

If you wear hair on a daily basis be sure it looks current and undetectable. This allows guests to see firsthand how natural hair can look. It also lets them know that you personally relate and understand them.

4 Let Them Shop

One of the biggest no-no’s I see is keeping products behind the counter or desk. It is a proven fact that when someone touches a product they are more likely to buy, especially when it smells good! Display products where guests can see, touch and smell them. Providing testers are always an added bonus and can increase sales.

5 Encourage & Educate

Ditch the museum feel! While it’s it great to have beautifully displayed hair systems, you also want your guests to engage with what you provide. Invite them to touch products from wigs to sleeping caps. Have a small inventory that is strictly for guests to play with. The more involved they are, the more comfortable they will be, and the more likely to purchase from you.

Issue 23, Autumn 2017

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The Voice of the AHLC

To Anyone Considering Scalp Micropigmentation: Due Diligence is Paramount

M

Mark Weston, Owner M. Weston Non-Surgical Hair Restoration, Longboat Key, Florida

icropigmentation “artists” seem to be everywhere. It could be because the average fee for a Norwood 5 scalp micropigmentation treatment is about $4,000.

It is understandable that some people are dead-set against scalp micropigmentation, and for good reason. Unnatural hairlines, large blue dots and uneven coverage are all signs of amateurs who perhaps took a three-day online course and became industry “experts.” But with proper due diligence, potential candidates for scalp micropigmentation can find the right company and method for them, as scalp micropigmentation is a great hair loss option when properly and artistically executed.

When I formally made the transition from custom tattoos, permanent cosmetics and medical tattooing to scalp micropigmentation in early 2009, I already had developed my now patented needle and application method and my SMART Pigments. I was the first in the United States, but soon after the copycats started emerging. Most seem concerned with one thing, making the most money as quickly as they could. None of these new companies researched or developed anything, but claimed they did and I found myself contacting my intellectual property counsel quite frequently for plagiarism and copyright infringement.

Scalp micropigmentation companies were popping up exponentially. They were around for a year or two, they would disappear and twenty more would emerge. Since I have been in this field since the onset, I have seen companies come and go; new ones

start up claiming to be the first and the best. I personally know the history or each and every company now practicing. These companies forged ahead, with no regard for equipment, method of application or pigments. After all, it’s just “dots” to the scalp right? How difficult can that be?

Whom Can I Trust and Why There Are So Many Botched Procedures?

There are no laws pertaining specifically to scalp micropigmentation, although it’s covered under most American state’s general tattoo laws. As previously mentioned, some companies offer “training” with 3-day on-line courses. One must first know how to tattoo before taking any course for scalp micropigmentation, much less on line. But being promised customers waiting in line and get-rich-quick is too much for the inexperienced to pass up and fall for the high-pressure usedcar type of sales. The combination purchasing pigments from eBay and relabeling them as their own, inappropriate single needles and cheap equipment by some companies, all spells disaster for the anxious artist and the consumer. Many of these “artists” work unlicensed and under the radar, either out of hotel rooms or their private residences. Equally, beware of the lure of the fancy website, or choosing the first company that pops up in Google Ad words. Many spend thousands of dollars to remain prominent advertisers on Google, buying their way to the top.

When it comes to scalp micropigmentation, there is a lot of misinformation the Internet. Almost all practitioners claim they’re either the best or invented scalp micropigmentation.

This makes it difficult to find honest

answers, and confusing for potential clients.

Extreme caution is advised when seeking a scalp micropigmentation professional. Do not, for example, limit yourself to location. The company around the corner is unlikely to be the best choice. Thoroughly investigate the company/companies you’re considering. Contact each one and ask to speak to the person who’ll be performing your scalp micropigmentation. Don’t allow yourself to be pushed off to a salesperson. This is an elective cosmetic procedure, so be sure you have all your questions answered and peace of mind before you sign up.

Regardless of different providers’ claims, there are in fact only two methods of scalp micropigmentation; temporary or permanent. The most widely known are the temporary multisession (most commonly termed SMP).

Both SMP (and tricopigmentation) use various types of commercially-available equipment and needles. These methods last anywhere from 3 months to 5 years and require multi-sessions (up to as many as 9) to complete the end look over a period of many weeks/months.

As far as permanent methods go, there is only one; a US patented proprietary system that does not use the term SMP and requires only a one application (session) that lasts a lifetime.

Which Scalp Micropigmentation Procedure Is Right for Me – Temporary Multi-Session (SMP) or a Permanent Patented One Application Method?

Scalp micropigmentation (SMP is a specific term relating to the multi-session continued...

Issue 23, Autumn 2017

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The Voice of the AHLC continued... methods only) is often also called tricopigmentation. However, the claims and systems used under term each vary. For example, many scalp micropigmentation providers claim their method is permanent. However, SMP treatments will last a maximum of 5 years (at best). Tricopigmentation practitioners are more realistic with their claims. They typically acknowledge the temporary nature of the system (which utilizes different pigments and lasts a maximum of a year or two).

Despite their differences, both SMP and tricopigmentation are nonetheless both temporary applications and eventually require complete reapplication and touchups (in perpetuity).

Although there is controversy surrounding both temporary and permanent scalp micropigmentations, this mainly arises between the practitioners of each of the methods (one to the other). However, the industry as a whole has increasingly evolved into an accepted practice in the last few years for hair loss sufferers. In order to cut through the noise, and make an informed decision, it’s helpful to understand the distinct differences between both the temporary multi-sessions and the permanent patented method.

TEMPORARY MULTI-SESSIONS (SMP) The SMP method widely uses a single pin disposable cartridge-type needle. (Several providers claim that these needles are made specifically for scalp micropigmentation, however they are readily available at any tattoo or permanent cosmetics supply houses.) The reason for the temporary

One must also be adept in understanding skin undertones, which most scalp micropigmentation artists are not.

A thorough understanding of the color wheel is required in order to choose and mix the correct colors for a particular scalp. Many color sets used by practitioners are also limited to only a few choices. Some providers purchase generic brands of pigment and re-label them with their own names.

nature of these multi-session methods mainly lies in these single pin needles.

A single pin cannot hold enough pigment to embed under the skin for a long-lasting effect. The majority of the pigment is wiped off as it penetrates the scalp skin. The only points that remain between sessions are those where the remaining pigment managed to penetrate deep into the skin.

Typically, multi-session providers claim that 3-5 sessions are the average, but as many as nine can be required.

These methods utilize commercially available pigments, which are, for the most part, permanent cosmetics pigments. Permanent cosmetic pigments are not permanent at all and typically only last up to three years. Cosmetic pigments for the face should never be used on the scalp; they contain off colors such as blue and green that are accentuated when applied to the scalp.

For instance, if some of the permanent cosmetic colors that contain green were mixed with another color and then used on the scalp of an Italian man, his replicated follicles would be green.

The multi-session artist applies points to the scalp in a telegraph, dot… dot…dot type of movement. There is no stretching of the skin, which is required in tattooing to prep the skin before each embedding of the needle.

The points are placed shallow, in the very outer layer of the skin, which is shed daily. This is another reason why the multi-sessions fade quickly.

These methods also tend to establish new hairlines for the client by utilizing a template. The typical use of a surgical pencil to mark out hairlines is seen here. These thick lines do not permit the artist the ability for the natural placement of the replicated follicles for a natural-looking hairline. Hairlines result in a thick, solid fill by following

12 Issue 23, Autumn 2017

The Voice of the AHLC the surgical crayon mark. In addition, hairlines must never be dropped into the forehead skin as the pigment cures differently in forehead skin than scalp skin. The recipient will end up with an off-color stripe around the front of their head.

PERMANENT PATENTED ONE-SESSION METHOD

readily available for retail sale and is only utilized by the patent holder.

Hence, the permanent one-session method is presently available only through one provider globally, the patent holder.

This method uses proprietary pigments derived from the basic form of pigment mixing developed in Asia more than 40 years ago. Completely

organic and carbon-based, they contain no off-colors, such as green or blue, that would tint the scalp.Twenty-one base colors can be mixed from various shades of gray to browns, blondes and even strawberry/redheads into over 200 shades to exactly match the person’s natural hair color.

The only needle that has been developed for permanency (right-hand needle in photo) is a needle that was submitted for patenting in late 2009, with the final patent being granted in July of 2015. This needle was developed specifically to replicate a hair follicular unit for scalp micropigmentation. The configuration of this needle is based on a 3-round tattoo needle, but 7 times smaller. As a three-pin needle, a micro cup at the tip holds sufficient pigment for embedding under the skin. It cannot be used for conventional tattooing, or permanent cosmetics, because it’s designed for a pointillism application only. As a patent, the needle is not

is used constantly to wipe away excess pigment. This permits the artist to constantly stretch the scalp skin for the proper embedding of the pigment.

This also prevents the needle from implanting too deep as there is more control of the scalp skin. Each point is placed with specific precision into the scalp. Also notice the surgical stainless steel tube and tip in use (and not the mass-produced plastic cartridges).

This allows superior control of point placement.

This method always re-established the client’s natural hairline that was lost. Above is a correction of both an improperly placed natural hairline and faded scalp micropigmentation.

Notice the distinct difference between the scalp and forehead skin. A hairline must never be dropped below the original natural hairline. And when a hairline already established by a hair transplant surgeon, again this method strictly stays within that pre-established hairline by the surgeon.

THE FINAL DECISION

Points are applied in a deliberate and meticulous fashion to match the existing density of the remaining scalp hair. This application method is also the second part of the patent mentioned above for the needles. Note the wipe cloth in the left hand of the artist that

One must complete their due diligence and decide which provider and which method would best suit their needs. Investigate the prospective company closely. Time in business, background, proper licensing, artist(s) experience, etc. are all important. This is a cosmetic procedure that affects your self-esteem and your everyday life.

Make sure you make the best decision for you.

Issue 23, Autumn 2017

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The Voice of the AHLC

Welcome New Members!

To become a member or renew contact us at 615.721.8085 or log on to AHLC.org Nazy Curtis, Newport Hair Loss Center Newport Beach, CA Nazy began her hair styling career in 1983 at Vidal Sassoon in Germany and has traveled the world as a color educator.

She has worked with numerous well known hair stylists including Elliot Tumber, Juesepet Carnavale and Frank Henrich. Her extensive experience as a hair stylist combined with her personal challenges of hair loss from Alopecia and then Chemotherapy due to breast cancer ultimately led to the Amani product line. It is Nazy’s mission to help people experiencing hair loss regain their confidence and resume normal active lives. Beyond addressing hair loss due to medical issues, she has developed an extensive line of human hair products to meet the needs of anyone looking to add volume, length or achieve a new look that is comfortable, attractive and affordable. Nazy Curtis is a lead volunteer for the American Cancer Society at St. Joseph’s Hospital, Orange.

Newport Hair Loss Center specializes in real custom human hair wigs for cancer patients, Alopecia Patients, Trichotillomania Patients, and other hair loss patients.

New port Hair Loss Center has Locations in Los Angeles, San Diego, Orange County & Hamburg Christine Dupuis, Hair Solutions Riverhead, NY Christine Dupuis, a certified, licensed professional who specializes in hair replacement, trained in Medical Hair Loss and Hair Replacement at the Onrite Hair Academy.

She has been in the hair industry for over 35 years, operating in Riverhead for the past 13, always striving to stay on the cutting edge of her business. She believes in excellence and true professionalism and accepts nothing less for her many devoted clients. Her staff members are fully trained to perform all services and are understanding, compassionate and very pampering to all who enter the door. Ms. Dupuis believes there is a growing need for nonsurgical alternatives to people experiencing hair loss due to heredity or illness, “so they can take back their life and regain their confidence.” Hair Solutions caters to those particular needs, specializing in hair replacement enhancements, partial and full cranial prosthetics for medical patients, hair extensions for length and volume and medical wigs.

Tracey Hardaway, Hair Candy Salon, LLC, Germantown, TN Tracey is a licensed Cosmetologist and Certified NonSurgical Hair Replacement Specialist. She has over 10 years of hair extension/hair weaving and non-surgical hair replacement experience. Tracey is very passionate about helping people look their best. She is the owner of Hair Candy Salon, LLC located in Germantown, Tennessee. The salon is a private beauty hideaway where every client gets one-on-one attention. Tracey is certified and trained in several hair extension and non-surgical hair replacement techniques that are customized for each individual.

14 Issue 23, Autumn 2017

Pam Reilly, Hair Replacement Center Cedar Rapids, IA Owner, Pam Reilly has been in the Hair replacement and cosmetology business for nearly 30 years. Her commitment to her clients and how they look and feel make her perfectly suited to this detail oriented business. She is the licensed Cyberhair distributer for Linn and Johnson county. Recently certified in trichology, Pam is thrilled to be adding a strong prevention aspect for her clientele.

Restoring people’s confidence in themselves and empowering them to live life to the fullest is the goal of HRC. Todd Van Scoy Van Scoy Hair Clinic/PAI Medical Group Parma, OH Todd began his career in hair restoration 25 years ago.

Since then, he has become a certified hair hygienist and clinical director of Van Scoy Hair Clinic. Growing up, watching his father deal with hair loss has made him more compassionate of the feelings people go through in losing hair. Van Scoy Hair Clinics started in 1969 as and continues to be a family-run business with three locations in Cleveland, Columbus, and Ashland, OH. He is in the business of helping people feel like themselves. His professionalism, coupled with experience, make him one of Ohio’s leaders in hair loss treatments. Van Scoy specializes in both surgical and non-surgical hair loss treatments. The partnered PAI Medical surgeon provides hair transplants with the most advanced options in Multi-Unit Hair Grafting and FUE. Management of hair loss with products/treatments to high quality human hair wigs to the latest technologies in hair replacement options.

Mark A. Weston M. Weston Non-Surgical Hair Restoration Longboat Key, Florida When a friend approached Weston in 1989 to tattoo what looked like hair on his scalp, Weston proceeded to accommodate his friend. In early 2009, someone emailed a generic photo of a fully shaded tattooed scalp to him. Tattooing since 1976, Weston immediately began researching and developing types of needles to replicate a follicular unit to improve on the unacceptable shaded look in the photo. After trial and error, Weston designed a tattoo needle that was nearly the size of a hair follicle but retained sufficient pigment for injection into the scalp permanently.

Weston submitted his needle and application method to the USPTO in 2010 and received the world’s only patent for a specific needle and application method for scalp micropigmentation in 2015. Weston also developed SMART Pigments for the scalp in 2009 that remain true to color as well as being the first scalp micropigmentation company in the USA.

COLLECTION

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Uniquely Integrating the Fine Arts, Engineering and Innovation patented designs | education | editorial | marketing | consultancy

The Voice of the AHLC

Artistry

THE FINE

of

I

Alternative HAIR

Sherri Renée Romm, Owner, Sherri Renée

have always enlightened myself with the process of creation and transformation. Finding inspiration in everyday objects like magazines, music, and movies with a child’s curiosity, I spent many hours filling sketchbooks with endless ideas on fashion, hairstyles, furniture design, art objects and surrealistic imagery. I have always had an insatiable appetite to experiment and learn.

Intrigued by hair and makeup during the 60’s, I began my debut in beauty arts at age eight by dressing up my younger brother in our mom’s wigs, makeup and glamour outfits. All the while, I would coerce him to strike poses on our hallway catwalk so I could relish in his transformations. My mom was also a huge contributor to my curiosity, as she would transform her “skinny” short hairstyle into a Hollywood glam girl using one of her many falls and wigs she kept in my walk-in closet. With a switch of a hairstyle and a color change of lipstick, she could look like and be anyone she wanted. Little did I know this was a foreshadowing of my future.

Fast forward, I found myself in the corporate world as a computer engineer so I could earn a healthy living and be self-sufficient. Supporting myself was a necessity, but I became burnt out after 12 years of consulting.

My love has always been in the arts and I had to find a way to incorporate

16 Issue 23, Autumn 2017

my passion into my work (and still pay the mortgage).

defining moment in my life and I knew there was so much to learn.

At night, as a reprieve, I would attend one of my favorite places on earth, MICA (Maryland Institute College of Art). It was there that I could once again smell the magical scent of oil paint and turpentine, exchange creative ideas with other artists, and be in my happy place on a daily basis.

The learning has never stopped. I have spent the last 25 years working with clients; crying, laughing, creating, and always fine-tuning. My clients have taught me so much. I just keep asking the question and the answers come.

How can I make this more real looking?

What is the missing link? How can I improve this? With all of the technology available in our industry today, why is it that I can always tell that something looks artificial?

Not long after that a good friend of mine was diagnosed with breast cancer. I remember her buying a wig that somewhat resembled her hair, but when she put it on, she felt fake. She never wore it, nor did she leave the house except to go to the hospital.

At this time, my then-husband was losing his hair and was developing a men’s hair restoration process along with a doctor friend of his. He had a hair manufacturers palette of materials and a color ring laying around our house. Wanting to help my friend feel better, I told her I would do my best to design a wig that better resembled her look. Honestly, I had no idea what I was doing, but I was motivated to figure out a solution.

Leaning heavily on my art and engineering background, I took a cast mold of her head and went to work.

Six weeks later, her wig was delivered.

I hired a local stylist to cut the wig on my friend...and viola! Her spirit was lifted and so was mine. This was a

I now understand. We are missing the fine artistry of alternative hair. We need a shift in our paradigm and view our work as a craft and an art form.

We have continually approached the industry of hair restoration as a left-brainer, logical, technical and pragmatic. We are resting on our knowledge of materials, 3D mold taking, adhesives, hair, all of which are extremely important and we can’t move forward without it.

I believe the next step is to challenge ourselves to use more of our right brain, the hemisphere that exudes intuition and creativity. We need to exercise its use to develop a new, fresh perspective based on what we already know and refine our artistic skills and application.

It has taken me this long to be able to articulate in words what I have been tripping over and fine tuning for years

The Voice of the AHLC with my own clients. I have summarized my thoughts and experience into what I call the Principles of Fine Artistry of Alternative Hair.

important. Considering what and how the client’s scalp and hair will look and feel in a month, a year or five years should be critical when exploring a solution. Hair characteristics such as color, density (a huge one), proportion, origin, texture should be consistence and compatible with your clients own.

Lifestyle provides endless clues as to the best solution for your client’s budget, travel and care-compliance all play into the equation.

Principles of Fine Artistry of Alternative Hair Psyche of Your Client We are a sum of our parts and we all have our unique story, you might say we are living art. Our experiences, desires, expectations and vulnerabilities all hugely affect how we see ourselves.

We entered into this industry with the purpose and hope that we can help people heal themselves. We are in a position to truly change their life for the better or worse. They have come to us because they want to feel whole again. Who doesn’t want to feel good? We, the experts, need to truly listen to the conversation so we can extract the most important details while tapping into our intuition of a client’s psyche. I believe the longer we are in this business, we have a tendency to pigeon hole people and think there is only one solution for them. We should diagnose, educate them on their options and see what resonates with them. Earn their trust and your income by doing the best by your client.

Renaissance, refers to the treatment of light and shade in drawing and painting, chairoscuro is used to model three-dimensional forms. The underlying principle is that solidity of form is best achieved by the light falling against it. Today, chiaroscuro can be found in all art forms including music, cinema, photography, literature, poetry, and cooking. Our industry is just on the cusp of employing this art form.

Our adaptation of chiaroscuro uses its fundamental principles to render lights, shadows and graduating tones to hair surface thus creating the illusion hairs natural beauty, depth, and Fromof Chiaroscuro inherent nuances.

Color Design Class Color placement, proportion and color choices are eleLt Ashe BEFORES ments within chiaroscuro that play into a successful color design.

Hair Architecture & Connectivity BEFORE

AFTER

Design & Materials What does your material palette look like? Do you understand why you would use one material over another?

How will you join your materials to create a design with simplicity and compatibility, while addressing the your clients comfort, security, and lifestyle?

Base materials and their attachment should be comfortable, light, breathable and ultimately safe. Integrity of your client’s own hair and scalp is vastly

Chiaroscuro Observanc The application of light, shadow, color, intensity, placement and texture plays on one of the most important principles of a visually successful transformation. Beautiful hair is wonderful but if it doesn’t address the inherent organic nature and nuances of the clients own hair, then visually it is not authentic and simply doesn’t work.

Chiaroscuro is an Italian Renaissance term meaning light (“chiaro”) and dark (“scuro”). Developed during the

The anatomy of the human head (and body) plays a integral part of which hair restoration method and design is best for your client. The shape ofFrom theChiaroscuro skull, soft tissue vs bone strucColorsize, Design Class proclivities, pattern ture, unusual of and type of hair loss, hairlines, all Lt Ashe AFTERS leave valuable clues to the proper design, connectivity and hair architecture needed. Ask yourself: Where is the hair loss? What does the surrounding hair look like? Is the hair loss temporary or permanent? How can I best maintain the integrity of their natural growing hair? Etc. No matter what method is used, hair architecture and connectivity should be seamless and believable.

The Art of the Finish The Art of the Finish is just that, truly an art It begins with the right design, connectivity, color rendering, appropriate density, shaping and detailing.

This is where the stylist can make or break the look. Achieving a beautifully natural look requires knowledge, skill and constant refinement. However, this is where we can really shine. With an artist eye and the ability to continually critique the details of our work, we can realize our talent, purpose and ultimately best serve our clientele.

Issue 23, Autumn 2017

17

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helps us stay ahead in every way ff. We have e entire sta th d n a s in lf e lf of mys destination u on beha restoration yo ir t a n h e t n lim p ra om ost vib I want to c d of that. ne of the m quite prou ness into o ’re si e u w b o is S th s! built w both coast n took a ne y - now on r expansio u o t the countr a th e l w a t ices, bu ternation ts and serv ir Visions In c a u H d f o ro p lp d ir e the h on ha dvance focus just It was with provided a industry - a ve always e a h th f e fresh o W s . fo n g to look r upswin limitatio ng. Where g from the vi n a ri le e ff d n su a o g in were als hom are ag , many of w loss clients lems. re two prob business? ut there we B s. re of ic h w p aren’t a a emogra show they younger d s e th tic s tis a ing hair ta c w n (s it e ’t experi about us n Obviously w re e a kn m e ly th re any of mers ba second, m First, consu ustry). And d in e th f o our sector rd out put the wo yet. cation we ifi problems... rt e e c y g lp health. W Tricholo Head First air and sca h r u g o y in d g in te lo ta o le h in omp n to ma s on tric After we c r new focu -like solutio u a yo sp a re r e e h ff wo This is w that we no t respond. new marke le o ss. h w a si saw our bu ne intain their at boost to re g a n e e need to ma y e h has b T f. o roves to e and pro onding in d ge, scienc sp d re le re w o y’ e kn nd th nts like b market. A These clie ious. uncertain jo n a alth-consc e in h e c re n a o h w le appeara p peo tinue to g aimed at we will con our marketin able staff, p a c ry ve your nal. the help of s Internatio nt that with Hair Vision e in fid ” n n o io c is I’m put the “v grow. You thrive and

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Hair loss prevention and scalp therapy

The Voice of the AHLC

to Create Motivation Meeting Your Clients’ Needs Kelli L. Bray Joiner, Marketing Project & Events Specialist, Columbus, OH

M

aster Stylist and Hair Replacement Specialist, Patty Young, is a professional with more than 25 years of experience designing custom hair replacement units. While her training allows her to provide this service to people of all ethnicities and backgrounds, Patty’s expertise lies in the development of units specifically tailored to meet the unique needs of people of color.

Patty was motivated to learn more about hair replacement after recognizing that many of her clients experiencing hair loss were not always satisfied with weaves and wigs. An alternative solution was needed for clients faced with thinning due to the effects of radiation therapy, track alopecia from improper hair weaves, genetic hair loss and those simply wanting a thicker and fuller body of hair. “My customers really desired something more and I realized that I had not only the opportunity but an obligation to fill that void. Your clients really become like family – and I really wanted to be able to offer them a solution for hair loss beyond hair weaving.”

Seeing the satisfaction and confidence in her clients was gratifying and reassuring that hair replacement was the answer for her hair loss clients.

Patty’s extensive experience and advanced training in hair replacement has afforded her the opportunity to not only specialize in hair replacement but to also teach other professionals interested in providing hair replacement services for their clients.

Patty discovered several of her hair replacement clients were experiencing significant hair loss around the edges and on the crown

designed specifically for women of color. This relationship allowed Patty to hone in on those areas most sensitive to her hair loss clients.

Touting the ready-made units as “Patty’s Favorite Things,” the line is fast becoming the go-to line for clients desiring a stylish, confident and readily-available solution for hair loss. Each unit is designed to complement the client’s needs as well as desired texture and color, grafted on a breathable base allowing easy access to moisturize the scalp.

Patty Young of Young Hair, Inc. Springfield, OH resulting from over-processed relaxers and braiding.

“I found there was a specific need to develop units targeted for people of color, which was missing from what the average hair replacement company offered. My goal was to develop a unit that specifically addressed the thinning hairline prominent in African American women and a unit that provided fullness for the thinning crown commonly found in all people of color.”

In 2016, Patty was invited to join a team of other renowned hair replacement specialists in the development of a collection of hair replacement units

SERENA

GABBY

The signature collection includes four uniquely-designed pieces, each available in 5 different textures. For clients preferring a center part, Serena is unit that delivers the versatility of this simple, yet classic style. A popular unit for clients seeking a natural side part, the Gabby unit is a favorite for this very natural look. The Viveca unit was developed for clients with a very thin or no hairline, and offers a lace front to create a natural-looking hairline. Jess is a unit created for men, which offers a moderate, soft-textured curl that provides a natural look and feel.

Patty is honored to offer this great line of units to her clients of color, and continues to provide custom units as well. The ultimate goal is to make her clients feel confident and proud, because when you look good, you feel good!

VIVECA

JESS

Issue 23, Autumn 2017

21

A quick reference guide for everyday issues. _________ Hair Loss Terms _________

Alopecia Areata: Hair loss in sharply defined areas; autoimmune disorder in which the body rejects the hair but the follicle is not dead.

Alopecia Liminaris: Loss of hair at the hairline along the front and back edges of the scalp.

Alopecia Totalis: Loss of hair from the entire scalp.

Alopecia Universalis: Loss of hair from the entire body.

Amino Acids: The building blocks of protein; A deficiency of these may adversely affect hair growth.

Anagen Effluvium: The pathologic loss of the anagen or growth phase hair; the loss of hair due to internally administered medications that poison the growing hair follicle such as chemotherapy medication.

Androgenetic Alopecia: Male and female pattern hair loss.

Cicatricial Alopecia (Scarring Alopecia): Irreversible loss of hair associated with scarring.

Dihydrotestosterone (DHT): A hormone that is the main cause for the miniatur-

ization of the hair follicle and for hair loss; DHT is formed when the male hormone, testosterone, interacts with the enzyme 5-alpha reductase.

Finasteride (PropeciaÂŽ or ProscarÂŽ): Drug that binds with the type 2, 5-alpha reductase enzyme to reduce the amount of DHT. Keratin: A tough, fibrous protein forming the outer layer of hair and finger nails.

Symptomatic Alopecia: Loss of hair due to systemic or psychogenic causes or from stress.

Telogen Effluvium: Scalp disorder characterized by massive hair loss as an early entry of hairs in the telogen phase (resting phase); It may be due to a variety of causes such as eating disorders, anemia, chronic illness, etc.

Tinea Capitis (ring worm): Fungal infection of the scalp.

Traction Alopecia: Loss of hair caused primarily by a pulling force being applied to the hair.

Trichotillomania: Loss of hair from compulsive pulling or twisting of the hair until it pulls out or breaks off.

____ Ventilation Knots for Hair Systems ____ Double Knots (Flat Knots): For very flat style that will not change; flat back pomp requiring no lift; for long hair requiring no lift.

Double Split (3/4 Knot): Provides volume and lift; excellent for human hair, very durable.

Forward: Vented forward from specified crown position; has less lift than forward for pomp.

Forward for Pomp: Gives maximum lift to finished style; hair is vented forward with a center open crown.

Freestyle (Part Anywhere): Gives the same appearance as center crown forward for pomp, which will provide lift when brushed back.

Looped Knot: Hair is inserted into the base and brought back up through the base in a loop, but not knotted; base is then sealed with a coat of PU to secure the hair; fragile; Not used on mesh bases.

Reverse Wet Knot: Similar to the double split but has one additional 1/2 split added for extra security; creates a little more lift than the double split; excellent for multidirectional styles.

Single Knot (Single Flat): Small knot for light density, flat styles; not durable.

Single Split (Half Knot): Smallest of all knots; looks very natural in part; provides lift.

3/4 Knot (1-1/2 knot): Typically used with human hair to create a stable flat knot.

The Voice of the AHLC

The Inevitable Question:

PART TWO

OF A 2-PART SERIES

Who Is Responsible for The Life of a Fine, Human Hair Wig?

Michael Leigh, Joli Caméléon™

INTRODUCTION TO PART 2: We are exploring together why, when your client asks: “How Long Will This Wig Last” and “What is Your Warranty”, they are such difficult questions to answer and how to respond.

In the first part, we covered how these questions apply to premium fine hair wigs and considered both the Manufacturer’s responsibility and the Reseller’s responsibility. Read Part 1 online: https:// issuu.com/ahlc/docs/thelink-issue22/13.

In this second part, we will consider how to educate the customer by example, and the importance of understanding their experience & education profile (especially in the case of children). We will look at purchase terms, after-sales support as a philosophy, what can go wrong when dealing with a complaint and the dynamics of accusations, expectations & reality. We will conclude with the answer to the two title questions.

Our conclusion may surprise you.

Customer Education by Example One of the most effective ways to answer a new hair wearer’s questions: “How long will this last”? And “What is your warranty”? - is to bring them back to the world of something they are more familiar with, like shoes. How long a pair of shoes will last is highly individual.

How often worn? How many hours on average? Just walking, or dancing as well? If walking, on rough pavement or a smooth office building floor. How often are the shoes cleaned or waxed?

What products are used to clean them (ex: instant shoe polish with silicone, or real paste polishes with leather conditioners)?

HAIR-WEARING

CLIENT

INTERNET-INFORMED ONLINE REVIEWING

PROFESSIONAL

THIS WIG .

IS TANGLING IT ’S YOUR FAULT.

HAIR STUDIO

HAIR SYSTEM

MANUFACTURER How often did they get wet, or worse, covered in snow?

Any particular variable, such as the wearers weight? How much do their feet sweat? The reason for the shoe analogy?

What constitutes a valid reason to return shoes after they have been worn? How easy is it to get a pair of shoes repaired at no cost, or replaced, once you have worn them? Does a pair of Jimmy Choo’s last longer than a pair of Clarks? (as in, longevity is generally unrelated to cost.

There are other factors at play, but not longevity).

What about the new toothbrush analogy: Will it last for 6 weeks, or 6 months?

It depends not only on the toothbrush, but on how it is personally used (How hard you brush? How long? How often?

What toothpaste? How cleaned between brushing? How stored? Etc.).

Hair-wearer Experience & Education Profile If you want to minimize the potential for after-sales problems, you need to ensure your customer knows (not just say they know) how to correctly Brush, Shampoo, Condition, and Manage their new purchase. A Client’s hairwearing experience level is obviously an important factor in deciding how much hair maintenance education they need before leaving your studio. But not so obvious is that changing the type of wig or hairpiece they buy, may need just as much re-education as a neophyte wearer. For instance, moving from synthetics to human hair, from coarse Indian or Chinese hair to European hair. Or from a specialty wig, such as a relatively heavy, solid polyurethane base vacuum design, hair-injected wig, to an ultralightweight, all hand-knotted lace wig.

This is a BIG change. Even if the wearer continued...

Issue 23, Autumn 2017

23

The Voice of the AHLC continued... has been wearing that vacuum wig for years, their sweat will never have come into contact with their hair, it just pools inside the base, which means much longer time without washing it. In contrast, the lace wig is much lighter and breathable, big advantages, but needs to be shampooed and styled more often to look its best.

Children and Their Parents – a Special Case Parents of wig-wearing children need extra help, depending on age.

They may have zero experience of wigs and what their children need to know.

Children may not to be able to adapt to the necessary discipline of regular and proper maintenance without their parent’s help. And pre-teens and teenagers are, unfortunately, much more likely to want to copy celebrity styles, by coloring their hair and using oil-based products to provide the look they desire, regardless of whether the use of those products is suitable. If something does go wrong, they may well hide the information we need (what they used or did) from their parents and from you.

The Purchase: Terms & Conditions of Sale and the “Warranty” Most studio owners I know have formal retail policies and they require their clients to read and sign them before payment. This practice is strongly recommended for mutual protection of you and the client. And it is also a preferable way to protect your win-win working relationship with your manufacturer/supplier.

After Sale Support as a Philosophy: The Follow-up Call /Visit It is imperative that a client is contacted promptly after purchase to make sure they are happy and all is well. I recommend you attempt to do this within the first 72 hours after they leave your studio. Furthermore, regular appointments to monitor the condition and appearance of the wig are an important opportunity to proactively create and keep happy customers, thereby enhancing your reputation, client loyalty and referrals.

Even if a client is only replacing their hair every one-to-two years, there is

24 Issue 23, Autumn 2017

an opportunity to provide washing and styling services and to make retail product sales. Premium haircare products, not available online, or in regular stores, that enhance the appearance and life of their hair purchases, are a valuable service to your client and a money generator for you.

What Can Go Wrong: Everything In today’s transparent world, the internet-empowered client has all the power if they choose to use it. The longer an unhappy customer, or one with a legitimate product problem, is allowed to go unchecked, the bigger the problem inevitably becomes. And the more difficult and expensive it may become to mitigate whatever is occurring. For instance, using unsuitable hair care products and/or the

The longer an unhappy customer, or one with a legitimate product problem, is allowed to go unchecked, the bigger the problem inevitably becomes.

incorrect usage of them, such as not rinsing them out thoroughly, can and often does lead to residue build-up in the hair, especially at the roots. Residue build-up can lead to tangling and/or hair drying out and breaking. Another big issue is the increasing usage of leave-in conditioners and oils on wigs and hairpieces, such as the very popular argan oil based products, like the “Moroccan Oil” brand. When applied and left to penetrate the knots, they can become slippery and loosen, resulting in significant hair loss when brushing the wig. If that happens, and before you get to know about it, they may get their friends involved, or another hairdresser. Everyone has an opinion. There are many self-proclaimed, “wig experts” that may have a conflicting agenda to

influence your client that they have chosen badly.

The Complaint – First Reaction The first 24 hours after a complaint is received is the most important. Your rapid response is key to a successful conclusion. Your Client is unhappy and, invariably, they will infer in some form that is “your fault”. How you respond and how clearly you communicate your “resolution process” are of great importance. What has happened and who is responsible is a process of discovery that takes time. But what if your Client doesn’t have anything else to wear? Do you have a ”wig loaner pool”? Can your supplier help you? This is critical.

Who is at Fault? - the Accusations, Expectations & Reality must be carefully managed, yet transparently communicated. Do they sleep in their wig or hairpiece? What products do they use? How often? Are they generally “rough” on their wigs? Do they put them on and take them off correctly, without stressing, stretching, or - over time tearing the base? There may be no way to tell, and your Client may not wish to tell you, even if they do know.

What Has Happened and Who Is Responsible?

As a manufacturer, we will be the first to tell you - although it is rare – that sometimes something can go wrong when manufacturing a handtied, fine hair wig. We have created a sophisticated, proprietary quality control system that our factories adhere to, probably the most comprehensive in the industry, and related practices to minimize the possibility of product problems due to workmanship and materials.

All our hair starts off as cuticle-intact virgin ponytail hair. Every step in the manufacturing process must be managed to ensure no hair gets mishandled.

For instance, “Double-drawing” the hair, to remove most of the naturally occurring shorter hair in a ponytail, is something most other companies don’t do. It is an expensive, time-consuming process. It creates a very beautiful, fulllooking wig and enables hairdressers

The Voice of the AHLC to create many different styles that are not possible with straggly, singledrawn wigs. It means multiple ponytails are used to make every Joli Caméléon hair creation. Each one is unique and, like all natural growth hair, can act unpredictably when colored or rooted to match our color ring specifications.

We make every effort to meet our published product specifications, but there will always be tiny differences, just like in natural grain leather work. There are infinite natural differences in human hair. Oxidation of human hair is also a natural occurrence and, although Joli Caméléon uses proprietary long-lasting color processes, it can happen with our wigs and hairpieces too over the longterm. Any human hair product will likely become a little lighter during its first year than when initially acquired.

The elapsed time in which this occurs varies and depends on location, sun, water, shampoos, other products used and other variables, such as the hair wearer’s own morphology and hair maintenance habits. This change in color, unless it happens prematurely, is normal “wear and tear”. However, restoration of a Joli Caméléon piece to its original color, can generally be done by our master hairdressers. In such cases, we will provide a quote for approval before doing any work.

Joli Caméléon does everything possible to support its professional studio customers in dealing with any hairwearer complaints relating to our products. We are responsible for any fault in workmanship or materials. We cannot, however, accept responsibility for hair goods incorrectly cut, colored, permed, or otherwise modified, after delivery to our studio customer. Even then, we try to be responsive and offer reasonable repair services or a subsidized replacement in extreme cases.

In the vast majority of cases (which in total are only a very small percentage of all the wigs and hairpieces we ship) customer complaints relating to product returns for tangling, matting, hair loss, color change, or damage to the base, turn out to be for reasons caused by the hair wearer (and occasionally the studio relating to color

work), NOT the manufacturer.

An Ocean of Unsuitable Products The most frequent culprits, as noted in the section on: “What Can Go Wrong: Everything” – are residue build-up from poor maintenance, use of unsuitable products, or incorrect use of standard haircare products. There are so many examples. Here are a couple of them at random.

Our Salon Education Team was recently asked by one of our overseas resellers what products and formula to use to add a dark root effect to one of our Joli Flexi Toppe™ hairpieces. We recommended Goldwell products as we use them in our Los Angeles studio. A couple of months later, we are dealing with a complaint about significant hair

We were surprised to discover that there weren’t any (products) that we studied that we could recommend for our hair.

loss from this same Toppe and the end customer is very upset. The reseller said they had followed our instructions. But on further investigation, it turned out that they chose to use a different color line. This color line states in its ingredients list and features it: “enriched with palm tree oil“. The color was applied and left on the roots for quite a while. Oil-based products should not be left to sit on hand-tied wig knots. It is highly likely that it penetrated the knots, making them slippery, resulting in hair loss during brushing. It could be an excellent product to use on natural growth hair because, presumably, the oil is meant to be beneficial, but it is NOT suitable for use on our handtied hair creations.

There are many thousands of haircare products on the market. Most of them have been tested to work well on natural growth hair, but perhaps none of them have been designed for use on hair that has been cut and no longer receives blood supply and nutrients from the scalp. Even staying with the bigger brands is not a sure thing. As a random example, we were contacted by a reseller concerning Bedhead Brand Shampoo by Tigi.

Judging by its commercial success, it likely works very well for the purpose intended, but – based on the ingredients list – we deem it unsuitable for our hair and could, over time, cause the hair to become dry and brittle, leading to breakage.

When we further investigated the range of products available for maintaining and preserving the life of fine human hair wigs, that would also be gentle enough to use on human growth hair, we were surprised to discover that there weren’t any that we studied that we could recommend for our hair. Most added hair vendor products are merely relabeled versions of generic general-purpose products. And some others were actually developed for use on synthetic fiber wigs (plastic) and marked: “also good for human hair wigs”. Would you use a plastic cleaner on your hair? Many contain insoluble silicone, sulphates, parabens, and other toxic chemicals none of which we recommend.

We take this challenge very seriously and - as many of you saw and acquired at the recent AHLC annual conference in Orlando – we spent the last 2 years developing and testing our own Joli Caméléon Hair Naturelle™ nutritive cream premium haircare line, with none of these problem-causing ingredients. They also feature the natural health properties of perfume grade pure essential lavender oil, imported directly from the source in a small village in Provence, France. Offering your Clients a premium haircare line designed specifically for fine human hair wigs, as well as their own remaining natural growth hair, is not just good business. It protects you from continued...

Issue 23, Autumn 2017 25

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continued... them using unsuitable products that can prematurely damage the hair they purchased from you.

Conclusion: Who is Responsible for the Life of a Fine Human Hair Wig? There is undoubtedly a shared responsibility in ensuring the hairwearer (or their parents) are educated in a viable maintenance regime to maximize the life of their human hair wig. An open and transparent Manufacturer /Retailer Collaboration is necessary to mutually protect both parties’ reputations and interests, and to have the best chance of ensuring a happy, long-term, hair-wearer. At the same time, it is important to educate and communicate to that hair-wearer their responsibilities, up front, in writing and have them sign it. When they, or the products they use, are the cause of any problems they are experiencing, they need to be informed. Before they leave your studio, they need to know that sleeping in their wig or hairpiece is OK, but may reduce its useful life by

26 Issue 23, Autumn 2017

half and why. They need to know how to put on and take off their hairpiece correctly, to shampoo and condition it, and what hair care products to use.

They need to know that leave-in conditioners can cause build-up and breakage and that oils can penetrate the knots and make them slick if they are not careful. They need to know their wig is not like a dress, but more like a pair of shoes: they need to be happy with it and make sure it fits before leaving the studio. They can’t buy a pair of shoes on Friday, wear them to a wedding and take them back on Monday.

In today’s 24/7/365 “always-on” transparent world, the online-savvy internet-empowered client has all the power if they choose to use it. In this sense, it doesn’t even matter whether they are right or wrong - this Article’s Title becomes a moot point. The rules have changed and we - collectively have to change with it. The hair-wearer is in the driving seat like never before.

In recognition of today’s realities, including the importance of receiving

numerous positive hair-wearer reviews (hopefully 5-star) on Google, Yelp and the like, there needs to be a deep collaboration and mutual trust between professional studio and manufacturer.

As an example, and in response, we have proactively introduced, for our Authorized Professional Studios, the Joli Caméléon “Almost-Free 6-months Maintenance Program” on every piece purchased from us. ** It is an unprecedented step for a premium hair product and provides a level of reassurance that a professional studio can use when their client is in the chair in front of them.

Joli Caméléon will, for 6-months from first delivery of a new piece, address any tangling, matting, or premature hair loss issue, by reconditioning or repairing it for a nominal $50 handling fee – terms & conditions apply. Offer void if the piece has been recolored or bonded. There are other terms and conditions. Ask us for the small print.

SPECIAL SECTION

The Voice of the AHLC

A PANEL DISCUSSION EXPERT OPINION • UNEDITED In the U.S., the title “Certified Trichologist” can be earned by receiving training for years or as little as a few days.

Have Your Say: Take our online survey to tell us what you think.

We’ll report our findings in the next issue.

We asked our Experts:

• Do you recognize this as an issue?

• How does this affect the hair restoration industry?

• How does this affect people seeking help with their hair loss?

• What should be done about this?

• Should there be some form of standardization?

Join the Conversation:

WWW.BIT.LY/TRICHOSURVEY

OUR EXPERT TRICHOLOGY PANEL

PATTY WOOD, USTI, WTS Certified Trichologist Owner, Off 5th Ave Salon Bradenton, Florida

BOBBI RUSSELL, WTS Certified Trichologist Owner, Hair Therapy for Women, Tampa, Florida

KARLA HURTADO Head First Trichologist Specialist IAT member

DAVID KINGSLEY, PhD, WTS President, World Trichology Society and British Science Corporation, New York

WILLIAM C. BLATTER AMCA, USTI Certified Trichologist, USTI Board of Directors, President, HLCC, Latham, NY

Issue 23, Autumn 2017

27

Patty Wood: I was trained in hair replacement at the Hair Academy in Ft. Lauderdale, Florida. I am a member of the US Trichology Institute (USTI) and am a Board of Directors Educator for USTI. I also am a member of World Trichology Society (WTS). I am a member of American Medical Certification Association (AMCA). I attended the Huntington College of Health Sciences. I was published in the first issue of HairPlus by Modern Salon magazine. Additionally, I have been interviewed by an ABC news affiliate, as well as many newspapers. I have been a cosmetologist since 1977 and have owned several salons. When my daughter was nine years old she developed Alopecia Areata. It was then, after suffering with her through four years of hair loss, I discovered that specialists in this field are very scarce. That was the turning point in my career; I decided my focus would be to learn as much about hair loss and to devote my career to servicing people with hair loss issues. I now have a cottage salon offering privacy for my hair loss clients.

Bobbi Russell: I am the first AHLC Master Hair Replacement Specialist accredited in 2005, a licensed cosmetologist since 1985 and became a Certified Clinical Trichologist from the World Trichology Society in 2014. I have been in this industry and I have been an educator and a platform artist for over 29 years. Women’s hair loss and the emotional trauma they experience has always been my driving force.

I have teamed up with Easihair Professional and Paul Reynolds , the son of wig maker Jon Renau , to produce my invention for women with thin or thinning hair.

Together we developed Revive, a top of the head extension. It was designed so a women could keep every hair on her head while wearing beautiful additional hair. Revive works like a bond, holds like a bond, no shaving, comfortable, floating system. I am also the owner of Hair Therapy for Women in Tampa Florida. A all female women’s hair loss, hair addition and Trichology center. HTFW is a family run business that dedicates itself to helping women who need or desire more hair.

recognized by the American Hair Research Society (formerly North American Hair Research Society), the American Hair Loss Council, and Huntington College of Health Sciences.

I am president and co-founder of the WTS and have a bona fide doctorate (PhD) from the University of Portsmouth (UK). I am the only trichologist in the world who is a member of the American Academy of Dermatology (AAD), the International Society for Hair Restoration Surgery (ISHRS) and a member of the American Hair Research Society (AHRS). I have been an educator for over 30 years, teaching trichology, biology, chemistry, and I have been an anatomy & physiology professor at the City University of New York (CUNY).

One of the reasons why the World Trichology Society was founded was to try and improve standards of trichology certification and to provide ongoing education.

With this as our mission, we not only offer challenging associate and trichology certification courses, but at our conference in October we are also offering a unique “Advanced Trichology Course” for certified trichologists. Furthermore, we are the ONLY trichological organization in the world who also provides a US education department accredited “Doctor of Health degree with concentration in Trichology” (PhD level) through Huntington College of Health Sciences.

Although we include in-depth introductory trichological sciences in our course, the WTS trichology certification concentrates mainly on the consultation and how a trichologist should recognize, analyze and advise on different hair loss and scalp conditions. Our students are also taught to liaise with the client’s physician or other health care specialists to the benefit of the client.

Bill Blatter: The US Trichology Institute was developed, in connection with our broad which includes 4 Board Certified Physicians, Naturopaths, Laser & Transplant Surgeons and 4 Trichologists educated from our competing Trichology courses and programs.

Karla Hurtado: Initially, I became interested in trichology in 2014 when one of Hair Vision International’s clients called me and invited HVI to participate in the International Association of Trichology (IAT) in San Antonio Texas. I realized that a brand new business opportunity had emerged for the hair replacement industry. I became excited, intrigued, and challenged to learn more about trichology and the science behind it. I envisioned it as part of the future for our beautiful industry.

USTI was formed specifically to address the issues you have brought up in this article. We have developed our business development and Trichology programs to address what the other “Courses” were lacking or missing in their content & outdated materials. USTI strives to offer the most innovative technology and proven solutions, by providing current trends and comprehensive Trichology training.

The following year I went to the 2015 IAT Conference in Washington DC and decided to become part of the IAT community. I purchased the Hair Practitioner Certification Course, committing to receiving the certification the following year. HVI became interested in the opportunities that trichology would bring to it’s customers. After vetting a few trichology programs and products, the company decided to partner with Capilia for its Head First program and products.

USTI is validated by the American Medical Certification Association; an accredited third party Certification Association whom issues certifications in the fields of EKG, phlebotomy and medical technicians throughout the United States. USTI’s Trichology participants may achieve two program certificates of which are issued by USTI & AMCA, after successful completion & attendance in our structured training seminars, and receiving an acceptable test score during our proctored testing.

I took my first Head-First Certification class in April 2016, and received my HeadFirst Trichology specialist certification. This made it easier to finally dive into the IAT Hair Practioner certification and I passed the test that same year.

We provide four levels of trichology training and each has a certificate of completion. This documents that the participant has completed a specific level. We provide solutions and tools for the biggest complaints & concerns, that we have received from individuals, cosmetologists, barbers, and licensed professionals alike, thus leading to the formation of USTI. USTI has received an outpouring of inquiries from our Trichology participants, that have requested and stressed the need for d in person Trichology and business development training (which targets their area of local practice). In addition, there is a lack of knowledge and accessible tools offered in the industry, to help provide solutions & services to their clientele; thus leading USTI to provide industry specific education to utilize upon participation in our seminars. In addition, the Trichology participants receive a recognized and accredited “AMCA” third party certification validating their ongoing training and knowledge, of which represents volumes to their clientele.

Dr. David Kingsley: Just let me start by thanking you for doing this article. The number of trichology organizations have mushroomed over the past few years with, frankly, little thought in how to help the student become a competent clinical trichologist (that is, a trichologist who can assess a client effectively and work with other specialists).

The World Trichology Society (WTS), incorporated as a school in New York State, is accredited through the American Association of Drugless Practitioners and is

28 Issue 23, Autumn 2017

SPECIAL SECTION In the US, the title “Certified Trichologist” can be earned by receiving training for years or as little as a few days. Do you recognize this disparity as an issue, and how do you believe this affects the hair restoration industry?

Patty Wood: I do recognize this disparity as an issue. It is impossible to learn the vast amount of information required to be a certified trichologist in just a few days. For me, it took nine months of intensive investigation and work to prepare to go to clinicals.

Bobbi Russell: It definitely will affect the hair restoration industry.

There is a difference between a certified clinical Trichologist and a Trichology technician. I have taken both types of training. In a short term class you learn the basics of hair loss. In this training you learn to recognize the most common conditions and how to treat them with scalp treatments and to recommend at home treatments. The information is limited. As a Clinical Trichologist I have learned to recognize that hair loss can be for so many reasons and or a combination of reasons. It took me a over 2 1/2 years to complete my training. I had no idea what I didn’t know. Many conditions look the same and are hard to determine. Learning to work with other specialist like Dermatologist and Drs that do PRP and transplant surgery. Understanding how diet, medications and proper function of the body effect the hair and scalp. The WTS and Dr Kingsley taught me so much and still feeds me information to stay on top of the ever changing information.

If someone who has a “few” days training, as you put it, claims to be a Trichologist, they are very limited to the knowledge that they have on the subject of Trichology.

This limits the business, robs the client and discredits the profession.

Karla Hurtado: I realize the confusion that exists today when it comes to trichology certification. After going through our Head First Certification class and studying to pass the IAT Hair Practitioner course, I understood the effort and the time that certified trichologists put into their education and into their practice.

Although it takes years to earn full certification, there are various levels at which one can understand the science, preform analysis, and provide advice under the guidance of a certified trichologist. I believe there are only two organizations in the Unites States that have the qualifications to help a person become a certified trichologist: the International Association of Trichology and the World Trichology Society.

Dr. David Kingsley: I think this makes it very difficult to get the trichology field accepted by other professionals. In my opinion, it is only by getting acceptance from physicians and other health care professionals that trichology can become the ‘go to’ specialty to which people with hair loss are sent. Incredibly, many trichologists have the audacity to call themselves ‘doctors’–please note that a valid PhD can only be gained through a reputable university. It took me three years of intense study to become certified as a trichologist and a further seven years (part-time) to attain my doctorate (through the University of Portsmouth in the UK) and so I’m dismayed when I see or hear of uncertified people calling themselves ‘doctors’.

On another note, I ask my students these questions: 1) “Would you take your son/daughter to a trichologist with only one or two days training?”

2) “Would you feel confident if you had a young boy/girl crying in your office, and you need to analyze their condition correctly, with only a few days of training?”

The answer is always, “Of course not!”

The Voice of the AHLC Additionally, even for those courses which may take longer than a few days, how experienced are the teachers/trainers in the trichological field as clinicians and/or as teachers?

Bill Blatter: Yes, there is a big disparity and it does affect that seeking trichology certification. However, if trichology participants take the time to do their due diligence, they will find that there is real certification available now from USTI.

Have you been personally effected by this disparity?

Patty Wood: When I went for the four day clinical, it didn’t prepare me with the tools to start a Trichology Clinic. There was very little continuing education provided, leaving me to be “on my own” to further my career. Though that has changed, it is vital to determine organizations that provide quality instruction.

Bobbi Russell: It has only affected me with the misunderstanding of the profession and constantly trying to explain the difference Karla Hurtado: What I have experienced since I have been promoting our Head First Hair Loss and Scalp Health Certification is that there are a lot of misconceptions about the practice and that there are companies offering misleading information, promising trichology certification in 2 to 5 days. In our Head First Trichology program we offer the education to become a trichology specialist, and guarantee that they will be able to identify and treat the most common ailments at the end of our class, after being trained by a certified trichologist. We also encourage them to contact the organizations above for full certification.

Dr. David Kingsley: The WTS often get enquiries about our courses as the caller felt that they were not adequately trained as trichologists from other organizations. Also, I have had many patients complain to me that they have been to a trichologist who they felt was ill equipped to help them.

Bill Blatter: Yes, through talking to many disappointed trichology participants of other programs and not following through on promises.

Do you believe this disparity affects the market; people seeking help with hair loss?

Patty Wood: I do believe this will affect the hair replacement industry – there are always going to be people looking to make a “fast buck” and prey on clients and not offer solutions or quality services. People will lose trust if they seek service from an underqualified Trichologist. I believe that since my life has been touched in a personal way with my daughter’s condition that my career path changed and I was driven with my hunger for all information available.

Bobbi Russell: I believe it can affect the people seeking help with hair loss. How do they know if the professional they are talking to has had 3 days training or three years if we are all called Trichologist. The people seeking help will be the ones to suffer. continued...

Issue 23, Autumn 2017

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continued...

Karla Hurtado: I believe this industry will be best served by agreeing on standards so that we provide an offering that both practitioners and clients can accept as professional.

Dr. David Kingsley: As I mentioned previously, trichologists should be receiving client recommendations from other health care specialists, however, it is unlikely unless they have built a personal reputation over many years. I think the specialty in general gets disparaged due to the incompetent few.

Bill Blatter: It’s hard for people to distinguish who’s a real trichology program and who’s not. USTI has addressed this by getting a third-party certification, and validated through the American Medical Certification Association. This lets consumers know that not only does USTI represent, that they offer a certified trichology program, that in addition a nationally recognized organization that is accredited throughout the US, validates and attests to our Trichology business development seminars and program! This is also why unlike other programs, we offer four levels of certification; Hair Loss Specialist, Hair Loss Practioner, Associate Trichologist and a Full Certificate of Trichologist. This avoids the confusion, and offers distinct levels of achievement.

Do you believe something should be done to correct this? What would you recommend?

Patty Wood: Educate. Educate. Educate. With proper education for the stylists, as well as doctors, they will have the material available to refer their clients to a trained Trichologist. I personally call on salons and dermatologists regularly to let them know what services are available for clients and patients seeking help with hair loss. It is important to reassure the salon and stylists the referral is for Trichology services only, and that seeking hair loss help will not jeopardize their relationship. With salon referrals styling, coloring and cutting services are not performed.

Bobbi Russell: As a cosmetologist we are regulated and monitored by the state. At some point with the popularity of this profession and with the mass differences with the education I believe it will have to be governed the same as cosmetologist.

Karla Hurtado: I think we have to maintain a level of quality, use terms properly, and provide training to our technicians and service to our clients that is in line with recognized science and practices.

Dr. David Kingsley: Yes, but it’s very difficult. The WTS tries to educate the public by suggesting they thoroughly check a trichologist’s credentials. Ask them through which organization they got their certification, and then check with that organization’s website to make sure that they really are affiliated. Also, it is important for a WTS trichologist to be current with their annual fees for membership as the WTS offers continuing education through regular newsletters with all the latest research and treatments as well as conferences.

Bill Blatter: I believe trichology participants and hair loss suffers are becoming more educated and that the Trichology Market is too young and to small at this point for regulations which might end up being political or restraining its growth and end up hurting it more than helping.

30 Issue 23, Autumn 2017

Do you believe there should be some form of standardization in the certification of Trichologists in the US, and if so, who would/should oversee this?

Patty Wood: I do believe there should be standardization in the certification of Trichologists for the reasons I stated above. I do not feel a few days of training are adequate. There also needs to be a state regulated entity that oversees the organizations offering the certification, as well as the work product of Trichologists.

Bobbi Russell: Yes I do believe there should be a standard. I would imagine each state would have to regulate this process.

Karla Hurtado: Since trichology is not recognized as a medical specialty, it is up to professionals working with hair replacement techniques to recognize the two major organizations use certification terms properly.

Dr. David Kingsley: As most trichologists are cosmetologists, their licenses are governed by individual States and so it would be almost impossible or very expensive to regulate all trichologists in every State. I think States need to realize that trichology and cosmetology, whilst overlapping, are different entities and should license individuals accordingly.

Bill Blatter: USTI raised the bar, because we felt there should be higher standards. Regulations, in terms of government, typically hinder business, and if people are being hurt, or scammed, there are regulations in place. Standardizing the industry, will only minimize the opportunity for students and organizations, and hinder those already financially bound by tuition costs.

How do you define “Certified Trichologist” and what training do you feel is necessary to achieve the title?

Patty Wood: I believe Trichology includes knowledge of all elements of the human body and hair structure. Annual training is essential. I think the training should be done in modules ensuring each individual has adequate knowledge in each module before moving on.

Bobbi Russell: A Trichologist is a specialist that is trained in understanding disorders of the hair and scalp. A Trichologist is a bridge between a Cosmetologist and a Dermatologist. As a Trichologist you must be able to accurately recognize and advise on different type of hair and scalp conditions. A Trichologist must be trained on basic anatomy of the scalp. The endocrine system and how if effects the hair and scalp, proper diet, how to recognize contagious disorders, when to send someone to a physician , understanding basic human biology , physics and chemistry, genetics and the list goes on. My training was very informative and I use it every day.

Karla Hurtado: “Certified trichologist” and “trichology specialist” are the two levels we recognize. As stated above, the first is a longer-term course of study provided by the two industry organizations, and the second is a basic level training that is properly conducted and supervised by certified trichologists.

SPECIAL SECTION

The Voice of the AHLC

Dr. David Kingsley: A “hair loss specialist”.

As mentioned earlier, someone who is trained and equipped to accurately recognize, analyze and advise on different hair loss and scalp conditions. This takes a certain level of education and experience. They need to be able to find the causes of the condition, not just treat everyone with minoxidil and/or laser.

As with everything new that is popular and profitable there are going to be a lot of scams out there to take advantage of people. I encourage your readers to investigate any offerings fully, and bring the trichology information to their salons.

Look for a trichology program that offers education, products, encouragement, and support, is conducted by a certified trichologist, and delivers exactly what it promises.

Bill Blatter: USTI believes that you cannot be a full Certified Trichologist without extensive training and at least 4 days of clinical training in person. In addition, a student must understand the bulk of 500-600 pages of information on hair loss, scalp issues, understanding the body’s systems, and nutrition; the tools needed to treat hair loss and thinning hair cosmetically. This must all be validated by proctored testing with passing test scores, USTI and the AMCA attest & validates that our participants have sufficiently met USTI’s course standards. The AMCA, issues through an extensive validation process, a certificate of participation and completion in our business development classes (by level of achievement), thus giving title of Certified Trichologist. Most of our students choose to do at least nine days in person on top of studying the material outside of class. USTI’s online students are remotely monitored via proctored testing, just like major colleges offer and still must complete an in person four-day clinical training program to be recognized as a certified Trichologist.

Dr. David Kingsley: Many people take ‘easier courses’ for their length (short) and level of education (simpler academic learning) as it’s human nature to get certified ‘fast’. But you must ask yourself how confident do you feel when presented with a very difficult client in respect of his/her hair loss condition? How confident do you feel when speaking to another hair loss specialist/dermatologist about your client? Can you work out why the condition started and that maybe it’s not just ‘genetics’ but possibly other factors? For the benefit of your clients, it may be a good idea to think about continuing your trichological education though WTS.

What’s your advice to anyone currently considering themselves a “Certified Trichologist” but fall short of meeting the requirements you stated above?

Patty Wood: If you want to be a Certified Trichologist, continuing education is essential. Additionally, you must work hard to understand all aspects of the human body and hair structure as earlier stated. I feel that a successful Trichologist clinician must have knowledge in all aspects of the elements of the human body and hair structure. In order to effectively understand and learn this, developing a relationship with dermatologists is critical. Trichologists must have the empathy for hair loss victims, and they must continue to gain knowledge and grow with continuing education. I also feel the salon environment should be conducive to providing privacy to clients.

Bobbi Russell: My advice to anyone who has been certified as a Trichologist that only received a few days training I would say to add the word technician to your title and go back to school. You owe it to yourself to learn this amazing information. I was blown away the whole time I was doing my training and research about just how much there is to know. It’s not easy, its challenging and exciting at the same time. I am so happy that I did go to The World Trichology Society Training. As a certified Master Hair Replacement Specialist, Designer, Inventor and the owner of a Women’s Hair Replacement Studio it seem to bring everything together. I understand so much more clearly now how to help my quest in our studio and to be a better educator when I teach my Revive classes. I challenge you to step up and get a more thorough education. The people that come to you with hair loss and scalp conditions , will ultimately be the ones rewarded.

Karla Hurtado: My advice is to be careful of “too good to be true deals.” They usually are. People can spend a lot of money, and be motivated to learn and help people with scalp ailments, only to end up with a certificate that might not be recognized by anyone and with no tangible way to apply their new knowledge.

I would like to end on a positive note. The great thing about trichology is its flexibility and its wide range of expertise. In the near future, I envisage trichology to be part of the next wave of hair-care from the cosmetic industry. Even now hair-replacement companies and hairdressing chains are looking for ways to get ahead of the competition. They need to look no further than trichology to educate and improve the knowledge base of their employees.

I also predict hair-surgical companies will soon use trichologists to advise their patients on more than just transplants, but also other treatment options and lifestyle changes to enhance the long-term satisfaction of their patients. Dermatologists now often use inexperienced (hair knowledge-wise) nurse practitioners to see a lot of their hair-loss patients, so why not use trichologists? Trichology can bring both the cosmetic and medical disciplines together for the better of all our patients and clients. But adequate education is the key!

Bill Blatter: Come to USTI, we will work with you give you some or all the financial credit for previous Trichology training and help you achieve a Real 3rd Party Certified Trichology Certification. We care about you and you will know that when you call.

USTI believes Student deserve and should demand - 3rd party Nationally Certified Trichology courses, and in person training that is provided in their area. A program that’s broken down into 3-4 achievable parts, so they can earn certifications along the way and start to work, not pay and study for 2 years and have nothing to show for it or be able to start working until the end. They should demand support before during and after their Certifications and work with a organization with 1520 Educators and support staff, not one person who’s daily job is running their own clinic. Our students and educators having completed a full course compete with people who took a one or two-day seminar call themselves Trichologists making it harder to distinguish themselves to Consumers. It’s hard for people distinguish who’s a real trichology program and who’s not. USTI has addressed this by getting a third-party certification through the American Medical Certification Association. This lets consumers know that not only USTI says this is a certified trichology program, but a national medical certification Association that certifies EKG techs med techs and other medical people does as well.

USTI classes often change our students lives for the better, we encourage students to go to our website to watch and read the testimonials both videos and written and look for the same from other programs. Please ask all the hard questions from USTI and we believe you will become part of our growing Trichology family.

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Trichology Training in the United Kingdom is very different than in the US. We asked a leading Trichologist in the UK about her training, the courses she studied and what was required to earn the title “Trichologist.”

Sally-Ann Tarver MIT.FTTS, The Cotswold Trichology Centre, Evesham, Worcestershire. United Kingdom

I

UK there are two organizational bodies who offer diploma courses in Trichology. Both courses are home study in the style of the Open University with the majority of work being carried out at home in addition to regular visits to training centres for lectures and clinical observation. n the

The first and oldest is The Institute of Trichologists, founded in 1902. www.trichologists.org.uk The IOT run a two-year course – it is extremely structured with timetables that must be adhered to. Year 1 is made up of part 1 and part 2. Part 1 is an initial assessment level to ensure that students have the academic ability to continue with study at a higher level. It runs from September through until the end of December and students must have completed all assignments to a satisfactory level before being able to continue on to part 2 of year 1 which runs from January until July. Students must also attend clinical training sessions held once a month for 10 months of each of the two years of the course.

If students miss clinical training sessions they may not be permitted to sit the examinations in the July.

32 Issue 23, Autumn 2017

The IOT Trichology course includes study of the following topics:

· Basic anatomy & Physiology (human biology) · Anatomy & Physiology of the human hair. · Numeracy · Basic microbiology · Basic genetics · Processing of hair (Chemical treatment) · Clinic hygiene / health & safety · Nutrition · Basic inorganic chemistry · Basic organic chemistry · Hair disorders · Hair loss · Scalp disorders · Diagnosis & consultation · Micro-diagnostic techniques · Trichological procedures · Trichological preparations · Trichological treatments · Organizations & operation of a Trichology clinic.

Year 1 examinations are held in one day and consist of two 3 hour written examinations.

Year 2 runs through from September until July, the examinations are conducted over 2 days and are comprised of two 3 hour written examinations and a practical examination. The practical

consists of a viva voce, consultation, treatments and microscopy – each section taking 30 minutes.

The modules and assignments given build up and interlink with each other meaning at the end of the two year training the knowledge the student receives is quite extensive. The course used to be over 3 years but has been condensed into 2 years. There is no way students could assimilate the necessary knowledge in less than 2 years. It is not usually until year 2 that students become much more confidant when treating patients.

THE TRICHOLOGICAL SOCIETY

The second organizational body, The Trichological Society, www.hairscientists.org, operate a modular university style course. Over the three-year course students are assigned approximately 20 essay topics a year and submit a final dissertation at the end of the third year. Almost 70% of the course is based on the in-depth study of hair and scalp disease.

SPECIAL SECTION Students also attend seven days of clinical experience per year.

At the end of the course students take a final viva voce exam and demonstrate the execution of real-life trichology procedures (consultation, diagnosis, prognosis, discussion regarding treatment options and the performance of any recommended treatment) with new patients in the presence of examiners.

The Voice of the AHLC BELOW: Established in 1998. The Cotswold Trichology Centre, Evesham, Worcestershire.

United Kingdom

much I had to learn in what felt like a very short period of time.

Once examiners are satisfied with a students academic ability, competence and the student has achieved a minimum 85 credits from a possible 100, they are awarded a ‘Licentiate of The Trichological Society’ diploma at the annual graduation ceremony.

Once I’d got my qualification and opened my clinic, a second brick hit me. I realized I still didn’t know enough The following few years were spent attending many more Sally-Ann Tarver at Graduation lectures, workshops and semiSally-Ann Tarver MIT.FTTS is a leading Trichologist with 20 years’ experinars, reading dermatology, ence in hair loss diagnosis and treatment. She is a past President (2008nutrition, psychology, product 2010) and Fellow of The Trichological Society and a Member of The Institute ingredient and drug books... of Trichologists. Sally-Ann has been consulted as an expert in her field by Students are not just any books! It took many years a large number of UK national media publications and has also made TV trained in hair loss condiof additional study and pracappearances in the capacity of an expert. tions, Trichology is more tice experience before I felt than a knowledge of Male comfortable in my expertise Once qualified, I was mentored for and Female pattern baldness and their and could look at every patient in a a further three years before I could standard treatments. We must be able holistic manner. The holistic approach apply for my full IOT membership. UK to recognise any scalp or hair abnorreally is necessary; hair and scalp trained Trichologists practice under a mality, explain to the patient why it has conditions are often a symptom of an strict code of ethics and are expected occurred and what their options are for underlying health problem and only to constantly update their knowledge management or treatment. addressing that problem will resolve by attending CPD events. the hair issue.

UK Students who begin either of I am quite shocked to hear that twothe Trichology courses will spend If a person takes a two week Tricholweek long courses in Trichology are approximately 20 hours a week or more ogy diploma and sets up in practice, being offered in The US. It is simply not working towards their qualification. how would they know the difference possible to learn such a vast amount Many are mature students and will also between cicatrising and non-cicatrisof knowledge in a short period of time. be working in full time employment to ing alopecia, or differentiate between I would anticipate that such a course support themselves (and their families). forelock Alopecia Areata and frontal would offer little more knowledge than fibrosing alopecia or telogen effluvium British hairdressers would learn during When I studied Trichology with the and female pattern hair loss. How are their hairdressing diploma.

IOT in the mid ninety’s, I did a three they going to know that the young year course. All of my leisure time woman sat in their consulting room A little knowledge is a dangerous including days off work, vacation chair, complaining of patchy hair loss thing. I speak from experience as allowances and 2-3 hours an evening isn’t actually losing hair at all, she has before I began formal trichology trainwere spent studying and travelling trichotillomania and pulls her own hair ing I attended numerous ‘hair science’ to London for clinical experience or out. Without a proper education and short courses. I thought I already had a lectures. I earned my qualification and training in hair science, how will they good understanding of hair and scalp am immensely proud of what I do for a know all of theses things and much problems. When I started the Tricholliving. more? Quite simply, they won’t. ogy course it hit me like a brick; how Issue 23, Autumn 2017

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The Voice of the AHLC

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easihair professional education September 26th, Hair+ Summit Revive Certification, Peachtree Corners, GA Open to the public. Limited spots still available!

REVIVE 2 DAY HANDS-ON TRAINING CERTIFICATION

by Bobbi Russell, Licensed Clinical Trichologist, Master Hair Addition Specialist Revive is an innovative top of the head integration piece that does not require shaving and can be done in just ten minutes! This hands-on class focuses on: • Trichology basics, reasons for hair loss and measuring hair loss • Identifying ideal clients, consultation, pricing and color matching • Customizing by coloring, cutting and blending • Application, Removal, Reapplication and troubleshooting • At home maintenance and care • Marketing EASIHAIR PROFESSIONAL TAPE-IN HAIR EXTENSIONS CERTIFICATION Available hands-on training, online certifications and custom in salon classes that take you from identifying your ideal and potential clients, the complete consultation process, application, removal and reapplication, retailing to this specialized clientele and everything you need to know to dominate in this highly lucrative category.

Call us for additional information, in salon education opportunities and special AHLC class pricing! 855-704-4100

34 Issue 23, Autumn 2017

Hair Visions

International Hair Academy, Ft. Lauderdale, FL ONE-DAY HANDS-ON EXTENSION CLASS FEATURING ULTRATRESS AND SIMPLICITY - ALL APPLICATION METHODS September 11 Call for registration information - 800-327-5555 HEAD FIRST TRICHOLOGY CERTIFICATION CLASSES September 24 - 25 & November 12 - 13 Now available, in-studio Head First scalp and hair therapy certification. Differentiate and add value to your studio by offering your client’s a scalp and hair diagnostic assessment as a certified Head First trichology specialist. The Head First scalp and hair therapy program will set you apart from the competition in your area as the leader in the newest and most effective way to treat hair loss and scalp issues.

Call for registration information - 800-327-5555

HairArt

INTENSIVE ADVANCED HAIR REPLACEMENT TRAINING Hairart Salon, Los Angeles, CA Date: Open (call for available dates) Learn everything you need to know about the hair replacement business from one of the leaders in the industry. HairArt has been in the hair replacement business for nearly 40 years and founder and head stylist, Doris Yu will teach you all the intricacies of the business; from how to discuss with your clients the delicate nature of hair thinning/hair loss and recommending the correct solutions, to making a mold, proper hair ordering, techniques for applying perm and semi-perm attachments, performing proper hair ventilation, cutting and styling. You will get an intensive hands-on training on mannequins and actual clients, so by the end of the course, you will be able to incorporate hair replacement solutions for your clients immediately and add to your portfolio of services. Techniques and client interaction are crucial for success, so a one-day or two-day course is not enough practical experience to fully understand, which is why we strongly recommend a minimum of a one-week course. *All training materials and hair are included in the cost of the course. Mannequin, tools, and practice pieces are yours to keep.

Cost: $6,000 for one-week course. $10,000 for two-week course Contact: (310) 217-8900

IHI Aderans Hair Goods

DISCOVER IHI 10/23/17, Los Angeles,CA Do you have clients with thinning hair? Are you looking to set yourself apart from your competition? Learn about available solutions to help your clients and grow your business!

Cost: $FREE Contact: info@inthair.com

The Voice of the AHLC

Jon Renau​

CORE I AND CORE II October 1, Core I, Milwaukee, WI October 2, Core II, Milwaukee, WI – Sold out! Call to be put on wait list November 5, Core I, Kansas City, MO November 6, CORE II, Kansas City, MO The CORE Certification program was designed to support our retailers with the end-consumer’s needs in mind.

CORE I CERTIFICATION A foundational class focused on the client experience • Leads our retail partners through the complexities of client consultations, innovations in fibers, cap designs, proper care, etc • Furthers our partners’ knowledge and expertise in alternative hair, setting them apart as professionals $150, Contact: education@jonrenau.com CORE II CERTIFICATION offers advanced, hands-on education focused in elevating your service offerings.

• Hands-on demonstrations with cap alterations, cutting alternative hair, redirecting knots and styling of human hair to better service the end client.

• Elevates our partners’ business and service offerings, with the goal of increasing their market share. (Core I Certification is required.) $400, Contact: education@jonrenau.com

Joli Cameléon

THE ADVANCED 7C’S WORKSHOP: CAMÉLÉON CARE COLOR CUT CUSTOMIZATION CERTIFICATION COURSE October 2017 15-17, Los Angeles Curriculum Overview: Maximizing the life of human hair wigs. The Do’s & Don’ts. Advanced Color Class - customizing Joli Caméléon’s wigs and Toppe™ pieces for maximum effect. Product training. Creative cutting of short and long styles. Focus on Women & Children with Alopecia & Thinning Hair. Small personalized class size.

The Trainers: Vicka Khanis – Russian trained master hairdresser & colorist. Formerly with Follea® Salon, Beverly Hills & several others. Over 25-years’ experience with fine human hair wigs and hairpieces. Over 20-year working relationship with Michael, our founder.

Holly Slear – Joli Caméléon’s Technical Head and founding team member. Holly taught hundreds of hairdressers about hair care & wig maintenance. Previously at Follea® of Beverly Hills. Over 10 years detailed technical experience with human hair wig manufacturing.

Benefits: You have a thirst for knowledge. The more you know, the better the service you provide your Clients. And the more you will earn. Caméléon Class Certified Graduates are eligible for special offers and can upgrade their clients with “insider” customization choices. Better suited to experienced hairstylists.

Includes: All tuition, with 3 lunches & 1 hosted dinner.

Logistics: 50% deposit required. Balance due 14 days before the class. Limited class size. First-come, first served. We are located in Greater Los Angeles, about 1 hour from LAX and Burbank Airports in the beautiful Agoura Hills/Westlake Village area. Ask us about area Hotels. If you would like to come in earlier/ leave later, let us know how we can help with your plans.

Cost: 3-day class $1,295 one participant. $995 each 2 participants from same studio. $795 each 3 or more participants. POSSIBILITY OF FREE TRAINING: $250 credit off tuition for each piece purchased from time of paid reservation until last day of class, (maximum credit: all the way to zero cost tuition). *Ask Us About Bringing The 7C Class to Your Salon Location (Minimum 5 participants).

Contact Nancy: 310-593-9988 or email: Hair@JoliCameleon.com

New Image Labs

ADVANCED TRAINING & EDUCATION For over 40 years, clients have trusted New Image Labs for not only top quality hair and customer service, but also the latest innovation and technology. We provide the industry’s only online educational resource, New Image University, and a variety of other professional development and education courses. Become a Certified Hair Loss Specialist, or take it a step further and become a Certified Master Hair Loss Specialist. Acquire skills in advanced scalp therapy with Active Care or learn how to see the big picture with Aram Huvis Americas skin, scalp, and hair analyzers. Invigorate your business and create more revenue through our extensive, hands-on training opportunities.

Contact: 1-800-359-4247 or email info@newimagelabs.com

Sherri Renée | Atelier

FOUNDATION I: THE FINE ART AND DESIGN OF ALTERNATIVE HAIR COUTURE Sunday-Monday, October 29-30 Owings Mills, MD Two day foundation workshop offering ~ practical and artistic instruction on client lifecycle, the art of the consultation, the anatomy of hair architecture & design, refining the ordering process, and the basic application of chiaroscuro color rendering ~ empowering you to create the ultimate hair enhancement for your clientele.

Open up your mind and your market to the possibilities of using hair enhancements for those who want modern convenience and styling ease using our Parisian Hair Enhancement Collection.

Cost: $295 for non-partner salons (complimentary for partner salons) Contact: Bonnie Ertel via email at bonnie@sherrirenee.com CHIAROSCURO COLOR DESIGN Sunday-Monday, October 8-9 Owings Mills, MD Two day intense workshop explores the “behind the scene” artistry, color chemistry and unleashed creativity involved in successfully rendering chiaroscuro color design in alternative hair. Topics covered include the foundation of light and shadow, placement, proportion, and color choice. Sherri Renée, a fine artist, will impart a new perspective through applied observation coupled with Renaissance painting techniques so you can best create your own alternative hair artworks. Workshop includes a Sherri Renée Cheveaux Full Enhancement to work on and take home.

Cost: $1,195 Contact: Bonnie Ertel via email at bonnie@sherrirenee.com

AHLC MEMBER

SPONSORED EDUCATION Issue 23, Autumn 2017

35

9 TOPPER PARTIAL SYSTEMS FOR EVERY STAGE OF HAIR LOSS

easiCrown

BEGINNING

easiFringe

easiPart easiPart

easiPart XL

MID/PROGRESSIVE

Top This

Top Wave Essentially You Top Level Top Crown

I got my first topper, “IWhen walked away feeling

Top Secret Top Style

incredibly hopeful.”

Top Full

– Jessica, Homemaker advanced hair loss

before

Visit jonrenau.com/jonrenaugetsreal for more Real women. Real solutions.

jonrenau.com

1.800.462.9447

ADVANCED

Top Form