THE RISE OF THE
VIRTUAL SUPERMODEL
TRENDS TO TRY BASED ON YOUR
HOROSCOPE
EXCLUSIVE W/
INFLUENCER SOPHIA MACKS
4 SU SENIOR
FASHION COLLECTIONS
THE Team
EDITORIAL EDITOR IN CHIEF Vivian Cheng MANAGING DIRECTOR Amanda Levkoff CREATIVE DIRECTOR Taylore Ratsep EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Danielle Clough EDITOR Elle Ross EDITOR Juliet Dore EDITOR Sasha Levin EDITOR Shannon Stubbs
ART ART DIRECTOR Lauren Hurwitz ART ASSISTANT Aiden Taylor ART ASSISTANT Amelia Lyttle ART ASSISTANT Jordan Clewner ART ASSISTANT Katie Pressman ART ASSISTANT Katya Jourvalev ART ASSISTANT Claudia Africano PRODUCTION Corey Sandler FASHION
PR/EVENTS
DIGITAL
SOCIAL MEDIA
MARKETING/FINANCE
VIDEOGRAPHY
FASHION DIRECTOR Marina Fernandez De La Cuesta
PR DIRECTOR Sara Jaskot
WEB DIRECTOR Jonathan Chau
SOCIAL MEDIA DIRECTOR Chloe Martin
MARKETING DIRECTOR Nadia Suleman
PR ASSISTANT Callie Collins
FASHION EDITOR Annie Blay
SOCIAL MEDIA ASSISTANT Becky Mauthner
FINANCIAL DIRECTOR Catherine Chung
Dylan Brzezinski Sarah Shane Jay Boyington
PR ASSISTANT Heni Danison
BEAUTY EDITOR Abby Fritz
SOCIAL MEDIA ASSISTANT Kat Hackel
PHOTOGRAPHY
SPECIAL THANKS TO:
EVENT DIRECTOR Meg Morris
LIFESTYLE EDITOR Alexandra McCartha
SOCIAL MEDIA ASSISTANT Maria Chandra
EVENT DIRECTOR Nicki Durazo
NEWS EDITOR Kate Regan
Sam Bloom Rachel LeClair Emporia Meng
Melissa Chessher Cameron-James Wilson Ben Anderson Sophia Macks
FASHION ASSISTANT Kristiana Morell FASHION ASSISTANT Marcus Holloway FASHION ASSISTANT Sofia Rasmussen FASHION ASSISTANT Dasha Bychkova
IN THIS ISSUE THREADHEADS An exclusive sneak peak of the 2019 Senior Collections at Syracuse University.
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THE RISE OF VIRTUAL MODELS W/ CAMERON-JAMES WILSON Go behind the scenes with the renowned photographer and artist and his Instafamous digital supermodels.
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SOCIAL BUTTERFLY EFFECT GenZ is upping the fashion ante one post at a time.
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URBAN REVIVAL: STREETWEAR LOOKS Damn son, where’d you find this?
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LET’S GET ETHICAL Join the fight against fast fashion.
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VIRTUAL VOGUE: ALTERING REALITY High fashion gets high tech in augmented and virtual reality.
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GOING ‘BEYOND THE MAG’ WITH SOPHIA MACKS The influencer of influencers gives us some insight into her Instagram success.
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RETURN OF THE TWENTIES Revisit the era of refinement with extravagant jewelry, golden glamour, and geometric patterns.
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CUSTOMIZE ME A deeper look at personalized beauty products made just for you.
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SCREW SKIN DEEP Build a holistic routine inspired by Japanese beauty traditions.
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THE VEGAN DYE-IT Would you want hair products tested on you?
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TRENDS TO TRY IN SPRING 2019 Based on your horoscope sign.
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LETTER FROM THE EDITOR
Photo by Josh Parsons
It’s Complicated. When I first pitched my cover idea to the editorial team, I was met with conflicting reactions. Enter the realm of Instagram, and you will find a whole community of virtual influencers. The woman on the cover is named Shudu, and she and her mate, Koffi, aren’t actually human. Created by artist Cameron-James Wilson, Shudu has faced a lot of controversy as the world’s first digital supermodel (pg 7). After talking to Wilson and reading up on various viewpoints on the subject, my team and I decided that we could not avoid the topic on the basis of sensitivity. Questions are an essential component of growth. And dialogues, like the one that took place among my team, are necessary for us to advance as individuals and as a society. Topics like these call your attention towards the future. It’s spring now, and maybe you’re reflecting on your year at Syracuse. Maybe you’re anticipating your summer internship or even (trigger warning) graduating into the real world. Either way, let us be your guide this season. If you’re looking to clean your closet, learn how you can make a difference while indulging in retail therapy (pg 19). Still craving change? Dye your hair with cruelty-free color (pg 39), or test out a new trend you’ve been itching to try (pg 41). Rain or shine, you’ve still got places to be. Whether you’re sporting streetwear on the weekends (pg 13) or prepping for a formal night out, we’ve got your back. On the brink of the 20s once again, revisit the original era of excess, and indulge with us when you go out this spring (pg 29). The greatest thank you belongs to my friends who made this happen; my team deserves all the credit in the world. I could not have imagined a better group of people to bring this issue to life. It is truly fulfilling to know such brilliant people, ones who share my belief that a campus magazine can be so much more than just an afterschool club. My team and I are beyond excited to bring you the spring 2019 issue of ZIPPED. Put on your VR goggles (pg 23), and ride with us into the future of fashion. Vivian Cheng Editor in Chief
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Transparent ‘Fuck’ Hair Clip Set, 2.5” length. SSENSE.com, $140
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EDITOR’S PICKS
SMARTWATEr, 33.8 fl oz/1 L. Target, $1.59
Stay stylish and hydrated this spring, & stock up with these 6 musthave items.
Urban Decay Full Spectrum Palette, Holiday 2016 Limited Edition. Amazon.com, $31.15
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Threadheads
PHOTO BY SAM BERLIN
PHOTO BY JORDYN GELB
ISA
by Monica Zuckerman With sky high mountains, cotton candy skies, mile-long deserts, luscious vegetation, and blue and pink oceans, “ISA” is a state of serenity with harmony between what the future will be and what I dream for the future to be. Combining futuristic elements with fluidity and organic shapes reinforce the balance that is present in not only this planet, but each piece of my collection. The young women who wear “ISA” are bold, unapologetically themselves, and are not afraid to stand up for what is right. This collection can be worn from day to night, and each piece is made to take you wherever you need to go.
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LAVABLE
by Alexandra Woj In a world where invention and fortune can make anything possible, it is important to re-examine the basics. Obsidian, an archaic and naturally occurring element, is a juxtaposition to modern-day technological advances. Syracuse University is home to the only furnace that can reheat obsidian into flowing lava. Paying homage to the simple things, “Lavable” mixes delicacy and precision with organic uncontrollability to form a modern collection of versatile garments. Basic silhouettes with badass personality instill a special strain of confidence in any wearer—because everybody knows the simple things make the most difference.
AN EXCLUSIVE SNEAK PEAK OF THE 2019 SENIOR COLLECTIONS AT SYRACUSE UNIVERSITY. THIS YEAR IS THE FIRST TIME IN SU HISTORY THAT THE SENIOR FASHION DESIGN MAJORS HAD THE CHANCE TO DEBUT THEIR COLLECTIONS IN NYC.
PHOTO BY JORDYN GELB
PHOTO BY SCOTT BRADLEY ROBINSON
SCOUT
by Kerry Phelan “SCOUT” aims to showcase the strength and beauty of women by pulling inspiration from nature’s powerful, impressive desert landscape. Color, shape, and texture are drawn from the strong, everlasting rock forms in the American Midwest, which can be seen throughout the collection through a series of different fabrics manipulations with hand-painted silk and embroidery, as well as digital fabric design. The symbolism for this collection is pulled from the wildlife of these areas, specifically the hawk, representing power, vision, and freedom. “SCOUT” aims to make women in the professional field feel empowered, strong, and beautiful.
THRIFTED LUXURY by Felicia Underwood
“Thrifted Luxury” pays homage to the art of home sewing. Often coined as a hobby or a task done out of necessity, sewing in fact opens a world of possibilities and has historically made fashion accessible to the masses. With a sustainable stance, this collection various textiles in the collection have been scavenged from thrift stores, harvested from remnant bins, and garnered through donations. The collection features interchangeable, layered pieces that transcend season, size, or body type. The woman you’ll find wearing “Thrifted Luxury” is on a budget, but values quality and timeless pieces that will remain in her wardrobe indefinitely.
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PICTURED: SHUDU AND KOFFI
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THE RISE OF THE DIGITAL SUPERMODEL By: Vivian Cheng Imagery by Cameron-James Wilson She’s literally so fake.
Take a glance into the digital universe, and you may find a population of virtual people. And
we’re not talking The Sims here. Celebrity photographer and digital artist Cameron-James Wilson has taken the practice of 3D rendering to the next level. Wilson has garnered an onslaught of attention in the fashion industry for his work with digital supermodels — aka virtual influencers with an uncanny resemblance to real humans. They even have pores. He also started the world’s first modeling agency for virtual models called The Diigitals Agency. The agency represents several of Wilson’s diverse animated supermodels, including his most popular model; her name is Shudu, and her Instagram account @shudu.gram has over 165,000 followers. Shudu has even been featured in numerous fashion campaigns with major brands like Fenty Beauty by Rihanna and Balmain.
Wilson’s virtual supermodels garnered controversy in early 2018. As a caucasian artist drawing diverse and African-inspired models like Shudu, many critics have alleged that he is not only taking away jobs from real dark-skinned models, but that he is also profiting off of the representation of them, thereby reinstating negative gender and racial norms. One Twitter user (@hodayum) tweeted, “A white photographer figured out a way to profit off of black women without ever having to pay one.” In an interview with blogger Isiuwa Igodan, Wilson defends his inclusivity. Wilson says, “Shudu represents what I’ve always seen as beautiful, but something I don’t see often enough.” In our exclusive ZIPPED interview, Wilson also mentioned that while he understands that his work may be perceived negatively by others, he is doing his best to pursue what he loves by portraying his models responsibly. He now labels his photos with hashtags and captions to clearly denote that his models are not actually human. Take a moment, and add supermodels onto the long list of jobs that might be taken over by robots in the coming years. If that happens to be the case, then there will inevitably be dialogues regarding the representation of different ethnicities and races within the pixelated realm of digital models. And Wilson welcomes that dialogue. “I want to raise awareness that this technology exists, and that very shortly, it will be hard to tell reality from fantasy,” Wilson says.
MEET THE MODELS Here are 3 other members of The Diigitals Agency. PICTURED LEFT TO RIGHT: DAGNY, BRENN, AND GALAXIA
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Q&A: CAMERON-JAMES WILSON
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When did you first come up with the concept of creating diverse 3D models?
When I created Shudu, I really wasn’t thinking of anything long term. I had imagined I’d just make beautiful art that I could sell as prints. However, after Shudu became popular, I realized there was so much potential here. I really enjoy creating different characters, and I love how many ways beauty can be interpreted. My work is an exploration of that.
Q
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Do the renderings take a team of people, or is it mainly you doing the design work?
It started off as just myself. However, my assistant Tom now helps me, and I’m looking build a bigger team to help manage the time it takes to create each individual piece.
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How many different models have you designed in total?
There are seven currently on my website, but there are models that haven’t been released or were made in private for other clients. Altogether, it’s probably over 20 total.
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Do you find yourself feeling competitive with other 3D models on Instagram? Or is it more of a community?
I definitely feel a part of a growing community, although there’s a healthy amount of competition too! I think that’s always important, but the focus is definitely on growing this as an industry and community, so I’m always open to advising artists.
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When did you first realize you were onto something with the 3D models?
When I first started 3D, I was posting some of my art to my photography Instagram [account], and the reception was really great. I got some really positive feedback from some amazing people in the fashion industry. That’s when I started to think maybe I was good at what I was doing. When Shudu’s following started to really grow, I realized that I had a responsibility that I hadn’t considered before. I started to get asked to attend talks and panels. My inbox was filling up with requests from amazing brands. It definitely made me realize that there was huge potential here and that I had tapped into something very innovative.
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What do you see in the future for virtual models and for your own models specifically?
I definitely see a future where all models have a digital counterpart, and every brand will have some form of digital ambassador. For my own models I’d love for their stories to unfold, their personalities to grow, and for them to step more into the real world.
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In the short term, what can your fans looks forward to in your work this season?
I’m working on some collaborations with artists, rather than brands, and working alongside some smaller designers, hopefully to uplift the community and showcase talent. There will of course be some really sun and amazing brand collaborations, but I’m always looking and thinking what can be done next! I want to raise awareness that this technology exists, and that very shortly, it will be hard to tell reality from fantasy.
Q
A
How do you handle all the expectations that people have for your inclusive models?
It can be hard as an artist, you want to experiment and try new things. However, people don’t always respond positively. You may not get as many likes when you try something new, and although that shouldn’t be the focus, you just can’t help wanting the response to be positive. It’s one of the hardest things to deal with.
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Social Butterfly Effect By: Elle Ross Illustration by Dylan Rheingold
GenZ is upping the fashion ante one post at a time.
G
en Z—otherwise known as the digital generation, is a term dedicated to the individuals who were born from 1997 onwards, according to Pew Research Center. This fashion-focused demographic grew up immersed in technology by having lifelong access to the Internet. They have lived through a rapid era of innovation, as well as an era of global turbulence, now quickly approaching the transition into adulthood. This development screams a wake-up call to anyone in the retail sector. Here’s why: social media has positively influenced fashion consciousness in Gen Zers, demanding crystal clear brand transparency.
Although older generations commonly reject the cursory nature of this mode of communication, it has made for a generation that views the world with a blank canvas. Gen Z has expanded their thinking on concepts earlier generations always assumed static. According to experts at AdWeekly, “studies have shown that Gen Z is interested in racial, gender and income equality, as well as environmental issues. Standing up for these values is becoming a differentiator for brands.” During their childhood, same-sex marriage became a constitutional right, the first African American was elected as president, and the nation outset a trend in becoming increasingly more multicultural each day. For many individuals in Gen Z, these historical milestones are seen as the norm. This shift in landscape has urged brands to evolve alongside them, offering their consumers a direct relationship that promotes progressive and cuttingedge products. Brands need to think about the broader image.
into the fashion industry. This has allowed Gen Z to explore what THEY like, making originality the new “trend.” Phillip Mak at the Huffington Post states, “social media-savvy Gen Zers are exposed to so many different styles, they’ve grown to value individuality over conformity.” This same concept has pushed fashion consciousness towards exclusivity, such as limited edition, impromptu collabs, and oneof-a-kind items. Luxury, streetwear, thrifting, a combination, or whatever it is — it’s unique and probably values our planet. Social media influencers, otherwise known as visionaries, play a significant role in Gen Z retail. Celebrities, a tool used in millennial marketing, are often scouted by companies— who keep the audience, engagement, and brand in mind—to advertise products on their social media accounts. Gen Z has fluctuated this trend a bit where we are now seeing an increase in engagement with “everyday” influencers. Topshop retailer asks its followers to post content wearing the brand using the hashtag, #TopshopStyle, bridging their social consumer market. The transparent connection between the brand and the “person just like you” offsets any concerns about quality or experience the consumer may have, making it a much more personal and trusted transaction.
Recently, teenage-focused fast fashion retailer Charlotte Russe filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy and plans to close 100 of their stores. According to CNN, the company made a statement in court recognizing its marketing strategies “failed to connect” with its customers and “shifted too far towards fashion basics.” Their efforts were Nevertheless, it’s important to note based too much on in-store sales rather that Gen Zers grew up during a time of than online. Businesses today, similar global conflict and economic hardship. to Charlotte Russe, have the difficult Their lives have been imperiled by task of shifting modes of retail that the Great Recession, 9/11, climate align with Gen Zers’ wants and needs. change, and resource scarcity. With Consumer habits have changed, and the presence of new technologies, for big businesses, the shift demands they recognize that society has a say an entirely new technique. That means in some of this chaos. They recognize digital everything. social media can be used as a mechanism for awareness. Gen Zers Fashion is art, and art imitates life. During this wave of technological value social inclusivity, sustainability, Today, Gen Zers’ lives are displayed progression, the rise of social media and transparency — and they have through public profiles. Social media allows users to live virtually through their something to say! Fashion, therefore, is plays such a huge role in fashion and online profiles—all of their experiences a mode of this expressionism, and never trends that it is no longer just about the made public. Jeff Fromm, co-author before has it seen this much variation. product; it’s about the conversation, of “Marketing to Gen Z” concludes that the philosophy, and the experience “teens view their personal identity as a Technology and social media prompt of shopping. curated composition; they are building an “individualistic” attitude from Gen their own personal brand over time.” Zers, which has undoubtedly divulged
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Urban Revival: Streetwe URBAN REVIVAL:
STREETWEAR LOOKS Photography by Rachel Leclair Makeup by Amanda Levkoff
Location: Black Mamba Skate Park in Shoppingtown Mall :
Damn son, where’d you find this Models: Katherine Nehring, Hairol Ma, Kaal Griffith, Daniel Bradley-Villarini
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Spring 2019
Damn so where’d y find this
Urban Revival: Streetwear Loo
ear Looks
Zipped Magazine
FA LL 18
Zipped Magazine
Damn son, where’d you find this
2019 Spring 2019
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val: Streetwear Looks
Damn son, where’d you find this
Your parents didn’t do it like this — with convenience and comfortability in mind, sport vibrant accessories, utility wear, and chunky sneakers this season to stand out. Through a combination of androgyny, hardware jewelry, layering, and random spurts of color, Zipped drew out the basics from our closets and elevated our style with layering. Take two: Urban Revival.
Urban Reviva
ks
Spring 2019
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Urban Revival:
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Urban Revival: Streetw Zipped Magazine
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LET’s get
Model: Alex Carlin
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Ethical
Let’s Get Ethical By: Sasha Levin Photography by Sam Bloom Makeup by Celia Volkwein Location: Thrifty Shopper in Syracuse, NY
Before you shop for the season ahead, slow down. Here’s why and how to join the ‘slow fashion’ movement.
S pring cleaning started extra early this year
with the airing of Netflix series Tidying up with Marie Kondo, which spread a worldwide decluttering movement like wildfire. The Japanese organizational guru’s so-called “Konmari” method suggests throwing away anything that doesn’t ‘spark joy.’ But after picking out all those clothes you ended up only wearing once, facing a massive pile of old stuff can spark more anxiety than joy.
says Mark Lichtenstein, Executive Director of Sustainability at Syracuse University’s School of Environmental Science and Forestry. “Look at the whole picture...What goes into the fabric? Where is it made? What kind of fair labor standards do they have?”. Some quick research on Google can often reveal whether a brand stands for ethical and sustainable values.
YouTuber Kristen Leo, 27, is a leader of Kondo’s method is one of many minimalist- the new community of fashion-conscious inspired movements popping up in past influencers. She produces videos, like most of years, urging people to take a cold, hard look these influencers, explaining how to upcycle, at the excess of “stuff” in their closets and buy second hand, and live more sustainably. consider its value. Since 2000, global clothes “Dear YouTubers, think before promoting production has more than doubled, and the these clothes,” Leo urges in a video to her average person now buys 60 percent more 180k followers, pointing especially to Zara. items of clothing every year and keeps them Zara is one of the companies that kickstarted for about half as long as they did 15 years the fast fashion model by being one of the ago, Vice News reported. first brands to take in merchandise bi-weekly, according to Elizabeth Cline, the author of The biggest culprits behind the mass Overdressed: The Shockingly High Cost of production of cheap, low-quality clothes are Cheap Fashion. ‘fast fashion’ brands like Zara, Pull & Bear, H&M, and FashionNova, who replicate trends When it comes down to it, becoming more at sonic speed with about 50 collections fashion conscious means thinking twice about a year. Not only are exploited workers how quickly we consume fashion, which is producing the clothing in poor conditions easier said than done. Even YouTuber, Leo, facing the consequences of mass production, knows we all have to start somewhere. Ten but the environment is too. The textile years ago, she was a poster child for Zara – industry is in the top three most polluting the brand even designed two shirts with her industries in the world. Every second, the face on it. She was wearing anything she equivalent of one garbage truck of textiles wanted, showcasing hauls from all the retail is landfilled or burned, according to a 2017 giants. But in the year 2000, news surfaced report by the Ellen Macarthur Foundation. that 9 out of 10 jeans Zara made are made And if nothing changes by 2050, the fashion with poisonous, carcinogenic dye. And industry will use up a quarter of the world’s While Zara said they had a zero-tolerance carbon budget, the same report published. policy in 2016, it was soon rediscovered that Syrian refugees and children working As the effects of the waste from the fashion in sweatshops in Turkey were distressing industry become more palpable, some social Zara jeans with toxic chemicals, without media influencers are actually leveraging their facemasks, for 12 hours a day. Leo decided platforms for good. The rise of the slow fashion to claim responsibility as an influencer and movement is pioneered by many fashion project a different message to her followers bloggers turned ethically conscious thrifters by cutting fast fashion almost completely out and sustainability enthusiasts. At the heart of of her life. it, their purpose is getting people to wake up and stop mindlessly consuming fashion. As Clothes made by ‘fast fashion’ brands the hashtag #WhoMadeMyClothes suggests, like H&M and Zara are very affordable, slow fashion calls for taking a moment to especially for college students. But secondstop and think about how your habits impact hand shopping for an entire year saves you the environment. “Every choice we make $2,420, and saves the planet 165 billion as consumers we need to understand,” pounds of carbon dioxide, according to a
ThredUp 2018 report. That’s why Syracuse University sophomore graphic design major Dasha Bychkova hits the thrift shop. In the past year, Bychkova’s become a bit of a thrifting expert, learning thrifting tips and hacks from different YouTubers. She’s seen thrifting challenges and slow fashion videos flooding YouTube the past year. “I’ve always been very conscious about conserving energy since high school, but once I started thrifting and watching thrifting videos on the YouTube, it has definitely made me more aware about sustainability,” Bychkova says. Within the past five years, the fashion industry has seen a resale revolution. Online thrift store leaders like ThredUP, luxury outlet The Real Real, and PoshMark are seeing Millennials and Gen-Z adopt secondhand apparel 2.5x faster than any other age group. By buying or selling secondhand and upcycling, you can extend the useful life of clothing by 2.2 years, which reduces the carbon footprint by 73 percent, a study published by Sourcing Journal shows. And besides sustainability factors or affordability reasons, in an age of endless scrolling online, the IRL thrill of finding vintage clothes is unique in itself. Taking the opportunity to go actually touch, feel, and try on clothes, makes for an overall more mindful experience where you can appreciate each item you buy more. And millennials aren’t so mindful about their clothes; millennials only wear an item one to five times before discarding it, according to ThredUp. Taking on the challenge of becoming a more ethical and eco-friendly shopper may seem difficult, but no one really likes tidying up, unless you’re a magical Japanese lady like Marie Kondo. The truth is, you don’t need Kondo to start when there’s a huge support system of knowledgeable sustainable living bloggers right on your phone. It’s about time we’ve started cleaning up our act. The days of not taking responsibility for contributing to fast fashion are behind us. So let’s dive into slow fashion as Kondo dives into a mess -- with intention, determination, and joy.
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recycle refuse redu re-use recycle refu reduce re-use recy re-use recycle refu
Model: Corey Sandler
Model: Gene Ratanadaros
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uce re-use recycle refuse reduce re-use recycle refus use reduce re-use recycle refuse reduce re-use recyc ycle refuse reduce re-use recycle re-use recycle refu use reduce re-use recycle refuse reduce re-use recyc refuse
Refuse to buy from brands that aren’t environmentally conscious. Try the DoneGood browser extension, which pops up in the corner of your browser when you’re online shopping and tells you whether or not the brand site you’re on is sustainable and/or ethical, and links you to alternatives if it’s not. Here are some environmentally conscious brands we love: Reformation, Everlane,Vejas, Outdoor Voices, Patagonia, Stella McCartney, and Alternative Apparel.
reduce
Cut down on the volume of things you’re buying. Increase your clothes’ lifespan by laundering them right and buying higher quality pieces to wear them longer. Avoid being stuck with ‘meh’ pieces you only wear once by buying only what you love.
re-use
Upcycle by repairing, restyling, and re-inventing old pieces. Swap clothes with friends, hand ‘em down. Thrift! By buying second hand you support keeping textiles out of the landfill or from being shipped overseas, and usually secondhand stores are owned by local or family-owned businesses. This goes for higher fashion too. Want to go all out on your look for a special event but know you’re not going to wear a green Chanel bag ever again? Rent designer luxury fashion statement pieces at websites like Style Lend, The Real Real, or Rent the Runway.
recycle
Using recycled fabrics and eco-friendly materials that minimize waste are key. The best fabrics to look for are natural fibers like organically grown cotton or wool sustainably harvested from animals, according to Lichtenstein. On the other hand, avoid buying clothing made from microplastics, microfiber, and polyester, which are dangerously polluting and have been proven to show up in drinking water sources and even glaciers.
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High fashion gets high tech in augmented and virtual reality
Consider the physical design aspect to these currently geeky and bulky headsets. Trends have shown us that that tech and design are not mutually exclusive, wearable tech has a design aspect arguably as impactful as the technical one it was created for. Typically, VR headset brands are being purchased by consumers primarily for their different software functionalities, not really for the hardware’s style or aesthetic. Maison Margiela’s John Galliano re-envisioned headset design in the fall/ winter 2018 show during Paris Couture Week when he took Oculus Go’s mundanely grey headsets and added some flair by coating them with different vibrant, shiny metallic textures. Since fashion is, for many people, an essential way of expressing oneself, it’s not impossible to envision a world where people make headset purchase decisions based on attributes like color, pattern, or form in addition to functionality.
Models: Jeremy Levin & Sofia Rasmussen
By: Taylore Ratsep Photography by Sam Bloom Location: Newhouse VR Lab
Hop in the spacewhip! The future of fashion is being
designed in the virtual space, and it’s full blastoff from here. The way the world experiences fashion is limitless now thanks to innovations in the virtual (VR), augmented (AR), mixed (MR), and extended (XR) reality realms. Fashion designers and artists alike are shifting over from flat, 2D pencil and paper sketches of apparel design, to 3D modeling their sketches using Google Tilt Brush in a fully immersive experience on the HTC Vive headset. In this virtual workspace, designers are empowered to escape the laws of physics and have full autonomy to design without limits. These 3D designs are not trapped in the VR space, in fact, they can be 3D printed into beautiful and sustainable garments.
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Maison Margiela may have brought VR to the runway, but Dior brought the runway to VR. Dior customized its own VR headsets, naming them “Dior Eyes,” and placed them in stores so customers could experience runway shows remotely by livestreaming 360 videos. Highfashion events tend to be very exclusive and elite, so by providing an immersive experience where the user is teleported into a fashion show crowd, Dior has created an opportunity for people who do not get to attend their events a chance to experience them first-hand. Similarly, Magic Leap partnered with Moschino to allow headset wearers to experience a new collection in AR. Users could interact with the virtual versions of the garments by touching them and moving them around the room since they appear like holograms when the headset is on. Both houses are exemplary of integrating this new technology into their brand’s designs and marketing schemes.
The virtual space has blossomed into a platform for the fashion industry as a design tool and marketing channel. Headset hardware is slowly becoming an accessory itself because of visionaries who pioneer wearable tech design. Instead of Gucci flip flops, soon there will be Gucci Oculus Go. Though it may take a few years for this technology to become an industry standard, it’s certainly headed in that direction.
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Photography By: Matthew Sperzel for FORTE_FORTE SS19 Courtesy of Beyond the Mag
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GOING ‘BEYOND THE MAG’ By: Sara Jaskot The influencer of influencers gives us some insight into her Instagram success.
It was Christmas morning. Kind of. At least it felt like it for creative director and consultant Sophia Macks when she first conceptualized her company, Beyond the Mag, in 2014. Craving change, Sophia had just quit her previous job at a creative talent recruiting agency, packed her bags, and headed home to Baltimore, Maryland. “Sophia disappeared into her room for weeks,” Mack’s mother, Ella, recalls. Ella remembers how Sophia refused to talk about what she was working on until she had a solid plan in place. Over the next several weeks, Sophia formulated this idea of what she wanted to do and the logistics of how she was going to do it. And thus, Beyond the Mag was born. Beyond the Mag formed when Instagram was just en route to becoming the social media platform of choice that it is for many young people today. Sophia had decided to begin the account anonymously so that she would not garner any outside opinions from others. She wanted to completely focus her energy on the content she was creating. Sophia then built her digital presence so that her vision could emerge and thrive. If you take a look at Beyond the Mag’s Instagram page today, you can view Macks’ energetic and color-filled creations, ethereal photographs with gorgeous clothing and a crisp aesthetic. Influential designers like Roberto Cavalli and Prada have approached her to create content that they can then publish on their own accounts. “My favorite way to work with brands is when I can create something that the brands themselves can use and is impactful no matter when it’s used and inspire people,” says Sophia. Although she may not have as many followers as other fashion influencers just yet, companies continue to seek Sophia out, because she exposes them to a consumer market that is likely to buy their luxury products. From 2014 to today, Beyond the Mag has evolved into something greater than Sophia had ever imagined. Through content creation, companies have turned her into an “influencer of the influencers,” because she is exposed to so many different projects and products before most other people in her industry have the chance to view it. Sophia has worked on and created a great number of shoots for high-end fashion designers including Viktor and Rolf, Chanel, and MSGM. She was the first person ever to document behind-the-scenes at Viktor and Rolf’s haute couture show in Paris. She has also worked with MAC Cosmetics. Sophia is the only person in the world who was not in-house employed by MAC Cosmetics to have access to their Instagram account. Not only does Sophia share the photos she creates, she also creates Instagram stories that are designed to yield the best possible engagement. For instance, she went behind the scenes at couture shows in Paris with MAC Cosmetics, and she documented the makeup and the products used to create the runway looks. So where is the future of fashion heading? According to Sophia, fashion is not just about predicting the latest trends in clothing — it can be used to predict the future in different industries as well, even real estate. “Fashion will tell you the climate of the world,” Mack argues. In the years to come, Sophia hopes that high fashion can be more accessible to the masses and that “people around the world will understand that [the fashion industry] is actually a very diverse and welcoming place to be, and not an intimidating, elitist place to be,” says Sophia. She hopes that fashion will eventually allow people to connect and understand each other better. Just because Beyond the Mag has garnered lots of popularity doesn’t mean that Sophia is anywhere close to finished. “There’s always room to do more,” says Sophia. She isn’t sure of where her projects will lead her next, but she is suited up to handle whatever comes her way.
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Return of The Twenties Photography by Taylore Ratsep Makeup by Celia Volkwein Location: Al’s Wine and Whiskey
100 years later
Revisit the era of refinement with extravagant jewelry, golden glamour, and geometric patterns. This is the decade of the new, independent spirit, one free of normalities and unattached to the binds of fads. Delve into a world of tradition with bedazzled brooches and glittering gems. Incorporating century-later innovations of metallic golds, nongendered makeup, and suede outerwear, this piece is a rebellion to mass culture and a tribute to individualism. We’re headed to the Savoy, you coming?
Models: Chloe Martin, Shoshana Smith, Matteo Chizzola
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Model: Colette Lathan
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Customize Me By: Shannon Stubbs Photography by Emporia Meng Illustration by Claudia Africano
A deeper look at personalized beauty products made just for you.
A
element of learning from the customers and what they want. I, myself, as the chemist behind it — I develop the product from there,” she says. “The machine just does what we tell it to do.” Even though the coolness and convenience are huge factors (for the consumers at least), it’s not the only reason why customization is so trendy right now. Inclusion is an emphasized word in the beauty world lately, and it doesn’t When we think of the word “algorithm,” many of us visualize only apply to a foundation shade range — customized things such as computer codes or something high-tech. products can lead to an industry that is further accessible The truth is that fashion and beauty industries frequently for all. Beauty brand Clinique just launched their own use algorithms to enhance products for you, the consumer. personalized moisturizer line, and their Senior Vice President Recently, both new and legacy beauty companies have of Global Marketing Julien Moignard agrees. “Customization been collaborating with their technological counterparts to equals inclusion,” Moignard told Allure. “We are all different, roll out more customized products to provide a personalized and one solution that fits all should not be the norm experience for their shoppers. There are brands such as anymore. Technology and science are pushing us further.” Curology, whose entire business model is built upon a customized skincare system to create a single moisturizer fit The new product range, called Clinique iD, allows customers to your skin’s needs, or Bite Beauty, whose brick and mortar to pick out of multiple hydrating bases and active ingredients “Lip Labs” offer lipstick lovers the chance to create a specific to tailor the product to what their skin needs. The choices shade, texture, and finish to make the cosmetics of their dreams. add up to a total of 15 combinations, so different consumers So, what’s the point? We’ve bought products made for can choose different product experiences. Moignard a general audience for years. But as products and the says that our technologically driven society was in part technology behind them advance further and further, so do our inspiration for the Clinique iD range. “In today’s digital world, wants and needs. Why use multiple products to fit your unique women are looking online before purchasing anything, features when you can just use one to address all of them? and they have access to much more information than in Product chemist Hien Nguyen asked herself that same the past. That’s why when we launch a product, we do it question when she and her business partner Zahir Dossa with a 360-degree approach. The beauty of this system founded customized hair care company, Function of is that it speaks to every single woman,” says Moignard. Beauty, in 2014. Having previously worked on a brand together, Nguyen says that consumers craved one thing So, will customized beauty be the future of the industry? the most: specificity. “People would always ask for a Maybe. Big brands that have already monopolized on the different fragrance, or they wanted [the product] stronger. beauty world are still considerably successful despite their They wanted to tweak what we had developed,” she says. many flaws. This makes it even harder for customizable From that, Dossa came up with the idea for Function of brands to find their footing, according to Nguyen, and the Beauty: an entirely personalized shampoo and conditioner bigger brands have their methods down to a science (albeit set based on each customer’s hair texture and needs. a simple one). “It’s not an easy feat to customize because formulas can be tricky. That’s why these big brands use a Their algorithm begins on the consumer side with a four-part lot of the same formulas because they know that it’s stable,” quiz, asking everything from hair type to scalp moisture, and says Nguyen. But she, as well as other beauty pioneers, having customers pick their “hair goals,” whether it be deep still have hope in the personalized approach. The fact conditioning or color protection. You can even customize which that these brands can potentially cater to every hair and/ fragrance and fragrance strength you want to use for your or skin type — basically every person on the planet — is shampoo and conditioner. That quiz data is then processed a powerful thing. And they work too! Function of Beauty and coded into a machine — one that Nguyen herself boasts a customer success rate of more than 99%, Curology performed the calculations for — used to fill the personalized has 88%. It might be a couple of years before we know for product. The entire procedure is extremely technical, but sure, but the future is bright for beauty customization. We’ll Nguyen insists that it still needs human touch to be possible. let you know when we see Curology being sold at CVS. “There is an automated process, but there’s definitely a human lmost everything is an algorithm — whether you know it or not. From the posts that come up first on your Instagram feed to how Google determines your identity through your data, our lives are filled with technological designs that help us navigate through the world. We participate in these methods regularly and, most of the time, unconsciously.
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screw skin DEEp
Build a holistic routine inspired by Japanese beauty traditions.
By now, we’ve all heard of and probably have fallen in love with K-Beauty. This centuries-old skincare ritual rocked the Western beauty world and brought us sheet masks, essences, and the beautiful art of double cleansing. Well, another skincare phenomenon is gracing our favorite beauty gurus’ top shelves, and yes, it still comes from the far away lands of Asia. Enter Japanese beauty (aka J-Beauty). Before we dive into the products and practices of Japanese skincare, let’s get one thing straight: J-Beauty is not the new K-Beauty. Both beauty cultures involve their own set of techniques, ingredients, and products, so it’s important to distinguish the two. While K-Beauty still reigns at the top of our beauty must-haves, it’s time to shed a little bit more light on our new friend J-Beauty.
By: Madison Breaux Illustrations by Aiden Taylor
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So what exactly is J-Beauty? Well, on the base level, J-beauty consists of skincare and makeup products that originated in Japan. Seems pretty simple, but the concept of J-beauty actually goes much deeper than a mere collection of products. Miyabi Kumagai, Shiseido Brand Manager, told Glamour UK that the beauty philosophy of Japan actually resembles that of healthcare. “Western culture is more concerned with correcting damages after they have occurred, whereas Japanese beauty care is more about anticipation,” Kumagai added. “For them, everyday prevention is a natural action.” When it comes to J-Beauty, the age old saying of “less is more” remains true. So, Japanese women have a small arsenal of key products that achieve that luminous glow we’re all after. Tatcha founder told Well+Good, “in Japan, they recognize that your skin is the outward reflection of your health. Instead of targeting a pimple or a wrinkle, they take the time to think about the deeper causes.” So that means if we’re really going to get into the rituals of J-Beauty, we need to take a closer look at what we’re putting into our bodies … not just what we’re putting on our faces. There’s only so much topical acne cream can do. With J-Beauty, that crystal clear complexion comes from actual skin, rather than layers of foundation and highlight. Purification and sustainability are some key terms to remember with Japanese beauty.
What products should we be adding to our own shelves? Now that we know the philosophy behind it all, it’s time to put it into action. Since skincare is the name of the game for J-Beauty, it’s all about creating the perfect base on which to apply minimal makeup. Japanese beauty tends to reflect the Japanese diet, which means the products include ingredients such as rice, seaweed, green tea, and camellia oil. So basically, sushi wrapped up into skincare. And with these ingredients, J-beauty has some of the best cleansers, essences, and oils that the western world could only dream about.
Tatcha The Rice Polish Foaming Enzyme Powder Sephora, $65 for 2.1 oz Tatcha is a J-Beauty staple, and this exfoliating face powder made from rice is definitely worth the splurge. DHC Deep Cleansing Oil ($28) ULTA, $28 for 6.7 oz And the perfect followup for the cleansing spa water is this cleansing oil that’s gentle on the skin, but packs a punch when it comes to purification. Koh Gen Do Cleansing Spa Water Amazon, $46 for 10.15 oz People credit French beauty experts for perfecting the trusty micellar water, but Japan has its own special version. This easy-to-use cleansing water removes any trace of makeup, dirt, excess oil, and anything else on your skin that’s not supposed to be there.
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the vegan dye-it By: Juliet Dore Photography by Emporia Meng Would you want hair products tested on you? Change starts in the roots—hair roots, that is. Next time you feel the urge to switch up your hairstyle, especially with spring coming, consider changing up your hair products and going vegan and cruelty-free. Using toxic, animal harming, wasteful products when a better alternative is both available and affordable is pointless. Not only are vegan hair products more sustainable and eco-friendly, but vegan products are a more natural and less toxic alternative to use when coloring and caring for your hair.
COLOR
Vegan, cruelty-free hair dyes have become more popular as new brands emerge each and every day. Yet, going vegan doesn’t require you to sacrifice the quality of the product or the number of shades; there is an alternative dye for all your color needs. Here are some of Zipped’s favorite vegan and cruelty-free hair dyes: Lime Crime Unicorn Hair is a deep conditioning color formula that comes in either full-coverage dyes (for a dramatic change) or tints (for something more subtle). It is a semi-permanent hair color that works best on blonde to brown hair, and leaves a tint on darker shades. Lime Crime Unicorn Hair, $16 oVertone is a unique brand with a two-part system — color depositing conditioner and deep conditioning treatment for quick, saturated color. With over ten colors, each coming in three shades—pastel, vibrant, and extreme—oVertone has a hue to suit any mood. oVertone Daily Conditioner, $17 oVertone Deep Conditioning Treatment, $28
CARE
Give those locks some love by using vegan and cruelty-free hair maintenance products that will revitalize any dull strands—leaving them smooth, shiny, and bouncy. Here are some of the best hair treatments to get you conditioned into the vegan lifestyle: Lush’s Hot Oil Treatment in ‘NEW’ is an all natural treatment comprised of organic oils, cinnamon, and peppermint. It alleviates the scalp by providing a refreshing, tingling sensation, and continues down your hair, hydrating and adding extra strength and shine. Lush Hot Oil Treatment in ‘New’, Lush, $11 Rusk Elixir Mist Thermal Shine Mist is a thermal heat protectant spray that promises a frizz-free shine to heat styled hair. This product protects hair, the environment, animals, and your budget, what more could you ask for? Rusk Elixir Mist Thermal Shine Mist, Ulta, $24
WEAR
Hair accessories are another great way to support the vegan and cruelty-free movement. They allow you to completely alter any outfit without purchasing new articles of clothing and aid the environment by practicing sustainability. Accessories are a great way to get that desired spring style transformation without having to commit to permanency with hair dyes or hair cuts.
A metal hair tie changes up the everyday ponytail to a sleek, futuristic edge. It’s easy to use and acts as a normal ponytail holder. First, put in a regular ponytail, and then follow with the Metal Plate Hair tie. This allows the volume of a high ponytail to stay without drooping or falling down throughout the day. Banana Republic Metal Plate Hair Tie, $9 Multi-colored barrettes provide an element of color pop to any outfit. Just clipping a few of these barrettes in will change any hairstyle into a showstopper for the warm weather. Start with a middle part and put one barrette on either side of your hair, clipping your bangs away from your face. You can even add more than one on either side for a more trendy look. These barrettes can add extra flair to a low bun or ponytail. Glam Party Clip Set, Dolls Kill, $8
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Models: Taylore Ratsep and Clarissa Lee Location: ESF Greenhouse
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TAURUS
GEMINI
CANCER
Platform Posse
Mix N ' Match
Monochrome 'Fits
CHANNEL YOUR productivity and determination, taurus. continue to stand tall in the face of challenges. rise above adversity by rocking platform sneakers this spring.
get extra creative this season. Show your adventurous side by thinking outside of the box and MisMATCHing colors. Try different colored laces, socks, or even nail polish to really spice things up.
This is the perfect trend to rock as you explore areas outside of your comfort zone. Pile on your favorite color and stand out as you take on this season, Cancer, ‘cause it’s all about you.
April 20 - May 20
May 21 - JUNE 20
JUNE 21 - JULY 22
TRENDS TO TRY
IN SPRING 2019 SCORPIO
Sagittarius
CAPRICORN
Belted Bags
Multi-colored Mane
Bold Blazers
Channel your inner passioN and power witH a belt bag, Scorpio. As someone who is resourceful, this is the perfect accessory to keep your things organized without too much hassle.
Stay stylish while seeking adventure, Sagittarius. flash your wild side by adding colorful pins or scrunchies. If you wanna have extra fun, try colored hair extensions or even dying your hair with a cruelty-free product (pg 39).
You love nice things, and a killer blazer is a staple that you must have this spring. Keep it simple, yet serious in an oversized blazer. wear it open with a tee underneath, or Rock IT as a dress to go from day to night instantly.
october 23 - November 21
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November 22 - DECEMBER 21
DECEMBER 22 - JaNUARY 19
LEO
VIRGO
LIBRA
Colorful Cosmetics
Sporty Spice
Foxy Flares
DITCH YOUR Old smoky eye. This Spring season is all about using bold makeup colors. From creamy glitter pens to colored eyeliners, there are so many way to push yourself to be bolder this spring, LEO.
KEEP UP THE GRIND, Virgo. PUT your best self out there, and reap the REWARDS. be sure to show off your hustle while keeping it chill by rocking some a-game AThleisure.
To keep things in balance, stay trendy while feeling comfY. Flare pants are calling your name, Libra. They’re back in style and perfect for YOUR freespirited SOul. Pair them with a crop top or graphic tee.
JULY 23 - August 22
August 23 - September 22
September 23 - october 22
Based on your horoscope. Written and Illustrated by Claudia Africano and Amanda Levkoff
Aquarius
PISCES
Aries
Mysterious Mesh
Tie-Dye Me Up
Statement Hats
break out of your shell, and be a little less shy, Aquarius. The mesh trend will let you flex while staying covered up. Mesh can dress up just about any look. As a bonus, you can stay cool while looking cool.
craving some magic, Pisces? Tie-Dye is the perfect trend for you. you cAN even flaunt your creativity by doing it yourself and making an original tie-dye outfit. Get ready to unleash your imagination and rock the rainbow.
Stay Ambitious as f*ck, Aries. Draw attention to yourself by flaunting a statement hat. It’s A genius way to block out the sun, while looking effortlessly on point. Say good bye to bad hair days for, like, ever.
JaNUARY 20 - February 18
February 19 - March 20
March 21 - April 19
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SPRING 19 zippedmag.com