When creating new items for their menu, Chefs Vitiello and Martin aim to balance the composition of the plate. Having a single flavour is forbidden in their culinary aesthetic; combinations of flavours and textures are intended to play off of each other and create a depth of experience. A menu staple, the whitefish ceviche is an equilibrium of expertly marinated fish (not too tangy), pickled watermelon (juicy and delicious), avocado purĂŠe (creamy), shelled tender edamame (fresh), and is finished with a sprinkling of house-made corn nuts (an appropriate crunch).
While undoubtedly talented and worthy of the acclaim they receive, one does not get the impression that chefs Martin and Vitiello seek out praise. Chatting with them, it is evident they pursue a humble and progressive approach to their craft; reinvention is not the goal, but constant professional improvement is. Of course, accolades are a compliment, and often indicative of value, but the chefs rate the achievements of their restaurant differently. They prioritize fine food, fine work, fine atmosphere, camaraderie, and most importantly, a patron’s enjoyment. Does it matter that the slice of rutabaga in my composed winter salad was prepared sous-vide with notes of orange and mustard embedded within? Yes, but that culinary technicality is subordinate to its exquisite taste. The Harbord Room strips away the superfluous components of a restaurant and gets down to the heart of the matter.
The concept of balance is even extended to the decor. The space is framed by the wainscoting panels of a gentleman›s cigar nook, yet the paint colour is rosy in the dim evening light. Art Deco candleholders sit on marble tables surrounded by comfortable wood and leather chairs. Light streams into an open-air patio busy with heavy metal tables. Visually, The Harbord Room is vibrant and historic at once.
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