The Fire of Peru at
ROSALINÉ By Carole Dixon
Los Angeles first fell in love with Ricardo Zarate, the humble South American chef from Lima, Peru, when he was occupying a tiny stall at the Mercado la Paloma, called Mo-Chica, near the garment district downtown. He moved up quickly to open a larger version of his first eatery (where Ray Garcia’s B.S. Taqueria currently resides) and the ambitious Picca project on Pico (now closed) with a stunningly modern design serving cantina-style causas (think sushi with potato), tapas and pisco cocktails from his homeland that quickly dubbed him “the Godfather of Peruvian cuisine.” Then everything went quiet for a minute, but Zarate was not taking a break. “I was traveling a lot and spending more quality time with my family and my kids,” he says. “During that time, I had also just released my cookbook, Fire of Peru, so I was working really hard on that campaign as well.” The chef also hit the road back to Peru for a little recharging and inspiration, while also visiting Columbia, Japan, Taiwan and Europe. “Any time I travel, I look for inspiration, for new produce, new techniques that I can use.” And use them he did. Early this year, he opened the fast-casual concept Mamacita (as a result of a temporary test kitchen put in place to prep for his new restaurant in WeHo) in the Hollywood & Highland complex. While not an obvious location, the food is simple and satisfying with BBQ wraps, rice bowls and ceviche. “I don’t think I have ever felt the need to step away from cooking. It’s my passion. It’s what I love to do. I have literally been cooking as long as I can remember, since I was about 8 years old. For me, it’s a way to relax,” says the chef. Still not one to boast about his past or present successes, Zarate has resurfaced big time with Rosaliné (named after Zarate’s mother) in the old Comme Ça space on Melrose. In another chic build-out by Culinary Lab and Kevin Tsai Architecture, the sunny and wood-based décor is the perfect backdrop for serving a mix of traditional Peruvian dishes with authentic street food that’s heavily influenced by Southern California culture and produce. This was a personal journey for the chef, who is fully embracing the next phase of his career with food that was inspired by his family. “I’ve lived in Los Angeles for eight years, and every day I blend my culture with this one,” says Zarate. “Now Rosaliné, a tribute to my mother, will give my cuisine to the community again. I wanted to have a hand in every detail, down to the handmade flatware. I have no limitations or boundaries—it’s just me. If I want to use a dish one day that I created for Mo-Chica, I can do it—whatever I want to do. I wanted Rosaliné to be a concept I’ve put my mark on, a space that people enjoy and one my mother would be proud of. I think we have accomplished that.” The results have been astounding. You still can’t land an unreserved table even months after its opening, and it’s also hard to score a seat at the buzzy bar even on a week night. “When I was looking in Los Angeles for a place to open Rosaliné, I had a few offers to open in Abbot Kinney, which was very tempting because I like that area, but when the space on Melrose and La Cienega became open, I knew I wanted it. West Hollywood is so full of life, and it’s so close to everything, to downtown and to people who love Peruvian cuisine,” confirms the chef. Plan ahead, and try to sit on the “patio,” which, thanks to skylight panels and plenty of greenery, gives off the effect of sitting outside. The menu offers Zarate’s childhood favorites that are also featured in his book. Some of the tools to help this cuisine come to fruition include a traditional Josper oven with an open charcoal grill that infuses ingredients with smoky, rich, earthy flavors and spices. And this wouldn’t be a Zarate restaurant without a ceviche bar. The freshly caught fish is sourced from the Santa Monica Farmers Market and sold by the ounce.
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