SOUTHERN CHARM Nashville, TN By Carole Dixon
From honky-tonks to hot chicken, Nashville has become a top destination for West Coast travelers—and some never leave. On a recent trip to this steamy Southern city, dubbed “Music City,” word on the street was that entertainment and music industry folks from L.A. were moving here at a rate of 100 per day—the same fate fell upon Austin, which last year claimed 300 California residents per day were calling the Texas city home. There are obvious similarities between the two, from live music venues, a booming hotel scene and Michelin-worthy chefs moving to the suburbs. Now the industrial lofts of the urban landscape are beginning to look more like a fancy big city that’s ripe for a Soho House rather than its down-home Grand Ole Opry roots. In addition to the art friendly 21c Museum Hotel, which just opened downtown, there’s the hip Thompson in The Gulch area, the rugged Urban Cowboy B&B from Brooklyn in the East, and a Dream hotel concept from Rockwell that is on the way. The Kimpton Aertson aims to give midtown and Music Row that same coolness that prevails in other recent outposts of the city, with a mixed-use development designed by Gensler. The 180-room Kimpton hotel features industrial-sized rooms with exposed concrete ceilings, original art work and stitched leather headboards. As you enter the lobby, the Nashville playlist by the hotel’s music director, Lauren Bucherie, wafts through the air setting the tone. All of the international art for the property was commissioned by Boston-based Cynthia-Reeves contemporary gallery. Near the elevator, a stunningly intricate art installation of hot pink and orange Egyptian cotton threads, titled Redberry, by Anne Lindberg, takes over a corner ceiling while defying gravity. Add to the mix James Beard award-winning chef RJ Cooper at Henley—the flagship restaurant that serves American comfort fare with a Southern twist—and a hot spot is born. The bar is raised to new heights with a cornbread-dusted agnolotti with buttery Alabama crab or the low-and-slow simmered green beans with bacon fat. Breakfast bakery goods include duck fat beignets overseen by pastry chef Matt Clement. The bar with Bette Davis eyes as a backdrop takes center stage—led by Jon Howard—with fashionable locals sipping on a “Lovely Bunch of Coconuts,” playful tiki cocktails or hand-selected whiskies. Next door, marketplace-style eatery Caviar & Bananas is part deli counter, bakery, artisan grocery shop and wine bar. Originally from Charleston, S.C., the place is packed already for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Grab a Tennessee trio sandwich (stuffed with three kinds of meat including pork belly) if you’re in a hurry, then take a stroll through the leafy grounds of the Vanderbilt University campus across the street. You can descend upon the wine social hour every day (even weekends) from 5 p.m. to 6 p.m. before heading out to dinner or up to the rooftop pool with views overlooking the teeming party scene gearing up on Broadway. Just like Vegas, Nashville is now one of most sought-after bachelor and bachelorette party destinations in the country, and when you spot a tractor being driven by a cowboy-clad hunk pulling a mobile dance party full of screaming women in a trailer down the road—complete with a DJ and bar—you won’t disagree. But people don’t just come here to party. The Kimpton is in close proximity to other sought-after reservations such as the much-lauded Catbird Seat restaurant with 22 seats and a hard-to-book tasting menu. On the flip side of fine dining, you can also stroll to Hattie B’s Hot Chicken for a modern version of the city’s favorite dish, but be prepared for a line no matter what time of day. You will actually come to expect lines at most of the popular places and even become suspicious if there isn’t one—even at a fast-food concept. If you want to add a sporting event to your eating and drinking outing, Pinewood Social (closer to downtown) combines a bowling alley with a bar, restaurant and lounge that would fit right in perfectly in Hollywood. While this is all fine and dandy, be sure to visit the historic Capitol Grille for fried green tomatoes, deviled eggs and the Friday catfish sandwich special. The restaurant has its own cattle farm, garden and even makes its own chardonnay. For more superb dining, hit Husk for the shrimp and grits; Henrietta Red in Germantown for a fried oyster sandwich at the bar; or a bowl of pasta at Rolf & Daughters.
74
• www.westhollywoodlifestyle.com •