LocaLs know that Vegas is home to some of the finest thai restaurants this side of the Pacific. the newest entry into this beloved category is chada thai & wine, opened in fall 2012 by Bank atcharawan, who understands a thing or two about pairing the perfect spice with the perfect glass. atcharawan was the well-respected sommelier and manager of Lotus of siam, a thai-foodie favorite on sahara avenue. when he started, there were five wines on offer, “including a white Zinfandel,” he says. more than a decade later, Lotus of siam has become known for its excellent wine list and is a favorite spot for other local sommeliers. now atcharawan has struck out on his own with chada, pairing his love for thai cuisine, which he learned to cook with his father, and his knowledge of wine. he not only runs the restaurant, but he’s also in charge of the kitchen, serving dishes that put an emphasis on southern thai cooking, such as kua kling, a homemade curry with ground pork, and Lo-Ba—lightly fried pig ear, tongue, liver and heart. atcharawan sees a natural fit between wines and spicy cooking. to demonstrate he fires up a beautifully blackened wok and plates a favorite with a twist: Pad kee mao, or Drunken noodle, served with thai basil and stir-fried ribeye steak ($14). he matches a 2011 egon müller scharzhof Riesling ($45 per bottle) from the mosel region of germany to the noodles. this off-dry, easy-drinking white wine has plenty of acidity and pleasing greenapple flavors. “acidity plays a huge role in combating the spice, not just the sweetness,” atcharawan says. appropriately enough, he says the name of the dish originated from a need to sober up the thai drinking masses through copious use of noodles and heat. to match the variety of dishes on the menu, atcharawan keeps a wall of wines, most with moderate levels of alcohol to avoid accentuating the heat of the dishes (the higher the alcohol, the more you feel the spice of the dish). Bottles are generally $30 to $60, with 80 percent of the list coming in under $100,
making chada an excellent value in Vegas dining. “our philosophy is just to come in and drink some good wine,” atchawaran says, noting the relaxed atmosphere and 3 a.m. closing time.
Tasting Notes atcharawan suggests another direction for the Drunken noodle: Pair it with a 2009 anthill Farms anderson Valley Pinot noir ($48 per bottle). this wine is “not overly ripe” and delivers a uniquely fragrant, red-cherry nose that evokes a fresh—not candied— fruit style. he says that, to him, the “smoky, unfiltered” style is more Burgundian than californian, and he detects “some smokedmeat” aromas. the character in the glass reflects the winemaker’s gentler approach to winemaking: paler ruby with a bit of sediment. in fact, the palate is much more giving than some might expect at a glance, should they equate deep flavor with a dark color. this wine is an example of why that is simply not so. 3400 S. Jones Blvd., Suite 11A, 702.641.1345; chadavegas.com
INSIDER INTEL / on a scale of one to 10, 10 represents the full power of Tai culinary fury. You might be curious how a Tai restaurateur spices his own cooking. Simple: atcharawan likes a 7.
vrated.com / 57