Tinos 360°

Page 1

ΖEFI POTIRI

CYCLADES - GREECE

www.tinos360.gr


TEXTS - EDITING ENGLISH TRANSLATION EDITOR PHOTOGRAPHS

: : : :

ZEFI POTIRI ELENA CHALKOUTSAKI IOANNIS VIDALIS ARISTEIDES KONTOGEORGIS IOANNIS VIDALIS ZEFI POTIRI EVELYN FOSKOLOU DIMITRIS KORRES

PRINTING - BINDING : GRAPHIC ARTS

www.typos-press.gr

TINOS

© 2008, Ioannis Vidalis (Francois Web Design), 1st edition Any copying, reprinting, photographic reproduction, etc. of all or part of this book is prohibited without the prior written permission of the publisher. 25th of March, Tinos 84200 τel.: 22830 25888, Fax: 22830 21111 e-mail: info@tinos.biz Cover photo: ARISTEIDES KONTOGEORGIS

ISBN: 978-960-98469-1-2


W R I T E R ’ S N OT E

Since my childhood, I used to wait impatiently for the summer vacation, so I could go to Tinos, my mother’s birthplace. Having many sleepless nights before the voyage, I used to imagine my departure from the Port of Piraeus and the trip on the boats called “Naias” or “ Panaghia Tinou”. On the day of the departure, I used to leave noisy Athens behind, clinging on the boat’s gunwale and trying to look as far as I could, in order to see my island appear, my Tinos. Like magical images, the villages of Ysternia, Kardiani, Saint Romanos and Kionia, were passing in front of my eyes, while the boat was crossing the clear blue Aegean Sea. Finally, I disembarked on the blessed island of Virgin Mary. The warm smile on peoples’ faces at the port and their wholehearted welcome, made me feel as being a member of the Tinian society from the first moment and adore this remarkable island even more. But the place where I really felt the power of Tinos was its interior, the so called “inside places” (mesa meri), as we Tinian people call them. Among the island’s unique jewels, you can find the villages that merge with the vivid natural scenery, the bench cultivations, the paths, the chapels, the dove-cotes, the threshing grounds, the windmills and much more. All such things were built in their own inimitable way, and you could not choose the prettiest one. They all have their own unique personality and they make you say every single moment: I like this. The years have passed and the tourist development of the islands imposed new conditions. Still, this island is resisting transformation. It can repeatedly say “No” to the bulldozer, aluminum and concrete. Nevertheless, there are still occasions that hurt my feelings, such as the backfill of archeological findings, the umbrellas on hire at the beaches, the stores approaching the sandy beaches very closely, the buildings with no permit, etc. Despite the above, Tinos continues to preserve its identity, due to the fact that it somehow manages to maintain some values that are currently disappearing elsewhere. That is why I invite you to explore it with me and enjoy a sumptuous feast of colors and shapes.


ΕΥΧΑΡΙΣΤΙΕΣ

ΕΕ ΥΥ ΧΧΑΑΡΡΙΙΣΣΤΤΙΙΕΕΣΣ

ΕΥΧΑΡΙΣΤΙΕΣ

Για τη συγγραφή συγγραφή του βιβλίου βιβλίου πουκ τη του που Για τη συγγραφή του βιβλίου που κρατάτε σταΓια χέρια σας χρειάστηκα τη βοήθεια πολλών συµπατριωτών µου, π Για τη συγγραφή του βιβλίου που κρατάτε στα χέρια σας χρειάστηκα τη βοήθεια πολλών συµπατριωτών µου, πέ φή του που κρατάτε στα χέρια σας χρειάστηκα τη αφή του βιβλίου βιβλίου που κρατάτε στα χέρια σας χρειάστηκα τη βοήθεια πολλών συµπατριωτών µου, πέρα από τις γνώσεις µου για τον τόπο Tinos – an island to discover καταγωγής µου και τις πηγές στιςοποίες οποίες βοήθεια πολλών συµπατριωτών πέρα απόκαταγωγής τις Θα γνώσεις µουκαι γιατις τον τόπο µου πηγές συµπατριωτών µου, από τις γνώσεις µου για τόπο συµπατριωτών µου, πέρα πέρα απόκαι τις γνώσεις µουµου, για τον τον τόπο καταγωγής µου τις πηγές στις οποίες ανέτρεξα. χρειαζόταν πολύς χώ-στις ρος για να ευχαριστήσω όλους εκείνου καταγωγής µου και τις πηγές στις οποίες ανέτρεξα. Θα χρειαζόταν πολύς χώρος για να ευχαριστήσω όλους εκείνους ιι τις οποίες ανέτρεξα. Θα χρειαζόταν πολύς χώτις πηγές πηγές στις στις οποίες ανέτρεξα. Θα χρειαζόταν πολύς χώρος για να ευχαριστήσω όλους εκείνους που µε γενναιοδωρία και χαµόγελο Talking about Greek islands, names like Mykonos, Santorini, Hydra or Rhodes αφιέρωσαν το χρόνο χρόνο καιτις τιςγνώσεις γνώσειςτο το ρος γιαemerge. να που ευχαριστήσω εκείνους που µεαφιέρωσαν γενναιοδωρία καιτου χαµόγελο το και στήσω εκείνους µε και στήσω όλους όλους εκείνους που µε γενναιοδωρία γενναιοδωρία και χαµόγελο χαµόγελο αφιέρωσαν το χρόνο και όλους τις γνώσεις τους, αλλά και τους φορείς νησιού Not so Tinos, the inτους, the Cyclades opposite που πρόθυµα µεcosmopolitan εξυπηρέτησαν σεό,τι ό,τιτο τ αφιέρωσαν το και γνώσεις αλλάπου καιπρόθυµα τους φορείς του νησιού σε µε εξυπηρέτησαν όνο τους, αλλά και τους φορείς του νησιού όνο και και τις τις γνώσεις γνώσεις τους, αλλά καιisland τουςτιςtreasure φορείς του νησιού που πρόθυµα µεχρόνο εξυπηρέτησαν σε ό,τι τους ζήτησα. Mykonos. Σε προσωπικό προσωπικό επίπεδο ευχαριστώτο τ πρόθυµα µε εξυπηρέτησαν σε ό,τι τους Σε επίπεδο ευχαριστώ ξυπηρέτησαν σε τους ξυπηρέτησανπου σε ό,τι ό,τι τους ζήτησα. ζήτησα. Σε προσωπικό επίπεδο ευχαριστώ τουςζήτησα. κ.κ. Στέφανο ∆ελατόλα και Στέφανο Γιαγιά για τιςπολύτιµες πολύτιµες πληροφο ΣεΓιαγιά προσωπικό επίπεδο ευχαριστώ τους κ.κ. Στέφανο ∆ελατόλα και Γιαγιά για τις όό επίπεδο τους κ.κ. Στέφανο ∆ελατόλα και Στέεπίπεδο ευχαριστώ ευχαριστώ τους για κ.κ.τις Στέφανο ∆ελατόλα και Στέφανο πολύτιµες πληροφορίες πουφανο µου έδωσαν, καθώς καιΣτέτον πληροφορ Nature, people and religion are the characteristics of Tinos. Solitary beachκαθολικό ιερέαπ. π.µε Μάρκο Φώσκολογια για φανο Γιαγιά για πολύτιµες που µουan έδωσαν, καθώς και τον καθολικό ιερέα Μάρκο Φώσκολο ιςις πολύτιµες που µου έδωσαν, καθώς και πολύτιµες πληροφορίες που µου έδωσαν, καθώς και τον καθολικό ιερέα π.τις Μάρκο Φώσκολο για τηντον ενηµέρωση σχετικά το Αρχείο es,πληροφορίες sometimes only accessible byπληροφορίες boat, contrast with impressive mountain της Καθολικής Αρχιεπισκοπής. Επίσης, τ καθολικό ιερέα π. Μάρκο Φώσκολο για την ενηµέρωση σχετικά µε το Αρχείο της Καθολικής Αρχιεπισκοπής. Επίσης, το Μάρκο για την ενηµέρωση σχετικά µε το Αρχείο Μάρκο Φώσκολο Φώσκολο για την ενηµέρωση σχετικά µε το Αρχείο της Καθολικής Αρχιεπισκοπής. Επίσης, τον κ. Σάββα Απέργη σχετικά µε τον landscape in the heart of the island. By car, mountain bike, or on foot, visitors τόπο καταγωγής του, τον Τριαντάρο,κα κα της Καθολικής Επίσης, τον κ.έθιµά Σάββα Απέργη σχετικά µε τον τόπο καταγωγής του, τον Τριαντάρο, χιεπισκοπής. Επίσης, τον κ. Σάββα Απέργη σχετικά µε χιεπισκοπής. Επίσης, τονsmall κ. Αρχιεπισκοπής. Σάββα Απέργη σχετικά µετατον τον can explore picturesque villages with beautifully ornamented doveτόπο καταγωγής του, τον Τριαντάρο, και του, αλλά και τα Τήνια του cotes offer hospitality Greece been acclaimed for. 1895, ενώ την καταΑγγελική Αγγελική Μωραΐτουτόποwhich καταγωγής του, τοναλλά Τριαντάρο, καιhas τατου έθιµά του,ενώ αλλά και Τήνια του 1895, την κα Μωραΐτου-Γ ου, και του, και τα ου, τον τον Τριαντάρο, Τριαντάρο, και τα τα έθιµά του, αλλά και τα Τήνια Τήνια του 1895, ενώ τηνέθιµά καthe Αγγελική Μωραΐτου-Γυφτογιάννη για το υλικό σχετικά µε τα «Πάνω Μέρη» της Τήνου, αλλάκαι καιτο το 1895, ενώΜέρη» την κα της Αγγελική για Μέρη» το υλικό σχετικά µεαλλά «Πάνω Τήνου, Αγγελική για υλικό µε Αγγελική Μωραΐτου-Γυφτογιάννη Μωραΐτου-Γυφτογιάννη για το τοΜωραΐτου-Γυφτογιάννη υλικό σχετικά µε τα τα «Πάνω Τήνου, αλλά καισχετικά το ποίηµα που µέσα από τηντης καρδιά της Giant stone parks as if placed by the Gods, endless kilometers of stoneµου εµπιστεύτηκε. τα «Πάνω Μέρη» που της αλλά καικαρδιά το ποίηµα πουεµπιστεύτηκε. µέσα από την καρδιά της της και το µέσα την της της Τήνου, Τήνου, αλλά αλλά και το ποίηµα ποίηµα πουΤήνου, µέσα από από την καρδιά της µου µου εµπιστεύτηκε. walls and bizarre rock formations, surprise the lonely island wanderer, as mysΕγκάρδιες ευχαριστίες στον καθηγη µου Εγκάρδιες εµπιστεύτηκε. Εγκάρδιες ευχαριστίες ευχαριστίες καθηγητή Κοντογεώργη γιαστον τις καθηγητ terious water caves reveal aστον touch of magic.κ. Αριστείδη µοναδικές φωτογραφίες που µεπροθυµί προθυµ Εγκάρδιες ευχαριστίεςπου στον κ. Αριστείδη Κοντογεώργη για τιςµε µοναδικές που αριστίες καθηγητή κ. Κοντογεώργη για τις αριστίες στον στονµοναδικές καθηγητή κ. Αριστείδη Αριστείδη Κοντογεώργη για τις φωτογραφίες µε καθηγητή προθυµία µας επέτρεψε ναφωτογραφίες χρησιµοποιήσουµε,συµβολή στον κ.people. Τάσο Αναστασίου γιατην τηνου ο µοναδικές που µεγια προθυµία µας επέτρεψε να χρησιµοποιήσουµε, στον Τάσο Αναστασίου ραφίες προθυµία µας να χρησιµοποιήσουραφίες που που µε µε προθυµία µας επέτρεψε επέτρεψε ναreflects χρησιµοποιήσουµε, στονcharacter κ.φωτογραφίες Τάσο Αναστασίου τηνthe ουσιαστική και υποδείξεις στα για The of Tinos character of itsκ. Mild-mannered hosts withστον wide-open hearts make visitors feel immediately home. «Οδοιπορικά», στονat Γιάννη Ψάλτηγια γ µε, κ. Τάσο Αναστασίου την ουσιαστική συµβολή καισχετικά υποδείξεις στα Ψάλτη «Οδοιπορικά», στον κ.κ.µε Γιάννη Αναστασίου για την ουσιαστική συµβολή και υποδείξεις στα Αναστασίου γιαστον την ουσιαστική συµβολή καιγια υποδείξεις σταενηµέρωσή «Οδοιπορικά», κ. Γιάννη Ψάλτη για την µου τους Their commitment to past, present and future is notable in each and every περιστεριώνες καιτη τηδράση δράση των«Φίλων «Φίλων «Οδοιπορικά», στον κ. Γιάννη για την ενηµέρωσή µου προσωπικό σχετικά µε τους περιστεριώνες και των ον Ψάλτη ενηµέρωσή µου σχετικά µε τους ον κ. κ. Γιάννη Γιάννηπεριστεριώνες Ψάλτη για για την τηνκαι ενηµέρωσή µου σχετικά µετου τους τη δράση τωνΨάλτη «Φίλων Πρασίνου», στο του encounter. as aτηsurprise comes love for unique specialties, such as για Αρχαιολογικού Μουσείου Τήνου γιατην τη περιστεριώνες και δράσηστο των «Φίλων Πρασίνου», στο προσωπικό του Αρχαιολογικού Μουσείου Τήνου τη «Φίλων του προσωπικό του τη δράση δράση των των «ΦίλωνNot του Πρασίνου», Πρασίνου», στο προσωπικό του Αρχαιολογικού Μουσείου Τήνου γιαtheir τηντου ανταπόκριση όταν προσέτρεξα εκεί, traditional sweets, honey, fried potatoes, sausages or raki. στονκ.κ.όταν Φρειδερίκο Πρίντεζη γιατις τιςπολ πολ Αρχαιολογικού Μουσείου Τήνου γιαπολύτιµες την ανταπόκριση προσέτρεξα εκεί, για στον Φρειδερίκο Πρίντεζη ουσείου για ανταπόκριση όταν προσέτρεξα εκεί, ουσείου Τήνου Τήνου γιακ.την την ανταπόκριση όταν προσέτρεξα εκεί,πληροφορίες στον Φρειδερίκο Πρίντεζη για τις για τις διαδροµές off road. Επίσης, έχουν την ευγνωµοσύ στον κ. Φρειδερίκο Πρίντεζη για τις πολύτιµες πληροφορίες για τις διαδροµές off road. Επίσης, έχουν την ευγνωµοσύν ο Πρίντεζη τις πολύτιµες πληροφορίες για τις διαδροµές κο Πρίντεζη για για τις πολύτιµες πληροφορίες για τις διαδροµές off road. Επίσης, έχουν την ευγνωµοσύνη µου ο π. Σεβαστιανός Φρέρης για Tinians are occupied with agriculture, (artichokes) in addition to the jobs τιςπ.marble πληροφορίες και υποδείξεις σχετικάµ off πληροφορίες road. Επίσης, έχουν ευγνωµοσύνη ο Σεβαστιανός Φρέρης για σχετικά τις πληροφορίες και υποδείξεις χουν την µου οοκαι π. Σεβαστιανός Φρέρης για έχουν την ευγνωµοσύνη ευγνωµοσύνη µου π. υποδείξεις Σεβαστιανός Φρέρης γιαΛουτρά τις σχετικά µε µου τα και τη Μονή Ιησουϊτών related to the Aegean Seaτην and the exploitation of since ancient times, και η κα Νικολέτα ∆ελατόλα-Φωσκόλο τις πληροφορίες και υποδείξεις σχετικά µε τα Λουτρά και τη Μονή Ιησουϊτών και η κα Νικολέτα ∆ελατόλα-Φωσκόλο αι σχετικά µε τα Λουτρά και τη Μονή Ιησουϊτών αι υποδείξεις υποδείξεις σχετικά µε τα Λουτρά και τη Μονή Ιησουϊτών και η κα Νικολέτα ∆ελατόλα-Φωσκόλου για την προσφορά των παραδοσιwhich has been developed into the extraordinary craftsmanship of marble carving of Νικολέτα Tinos. not to forget art of including hand-woven ακών συνταγών. και η κα γιαweaving, την προσφορά των παραδοσιακών συνταγών. ∆ελατόλα-Φωσκόλου για την προσφορά των παραδοσι∆ελατόλα-Φωσκόλου γιαAnd την∆ελατόλα-Φωσκόλου προσφορά τωνthe παραδοσιακών συνταγών. baskets whichοφείλω are famous far beyond the island. Ακόµα, οφείλωευχαριστίες ευχαριστίες στοΝίκο Νίκ ακώνΑκόµα, συνταγών. Ακόµα, οφείλω ευχαριστίες στο Νίκο Γκίζη για την πολύπλευρη και αµέρι- στο στη συµπαράστασή του, στηνΆνα ΆναΠετρό Πετρό Ακόµα, οφείλω ευχαριστίες στο Νίκο Γκίζη για την πολύπλευρη και αµέριστη συµπαράστασή του, στην ω στο Νίκο για την πολύπλευρη και ω ευχαριστίες ευχαριστίεςστη στοσυµπαράστασή Νίκο Γκίζη Γκίζη γιατου, την στην πολύπλευρη και αµέριαµέριΆνα Πετρόβα για τη γενική συµβολή και βοήθειά The Cathedral of Panagia, landmark of the town of Tinos, is only one της, στο συµβολή Λυκειάρχη Γεώργιο Αµιραλ στηΠετρόβα συµπαράστασή του, στην ΆναΑµιραλή Πετρόβα γιατις τη γενική καικ.κ.βοήθειά της, στο Λυκειάρχη Γεώργιο ήή του, για συµβολή και του, στην στην Άνα Άνα Πετρόβα για τη τη γενική γενική συµβολή και βοήθειά βοήθειά της, στο Λυκειάρχη κ. Γεώργιο για εύστοχες παρατηρήσεις και Αµιραλ of the numerous churches and chapels of orthodox and catholic faith, with υποδείξεις του και στον Νίκο Βαρθαλ της, στο Λυκειάρχη κ. Γεώργιο Αµιραλή για εύστοχες παρατηρήσεις και Βαρθαλίτ υποδείξεις του και στον κ.κ.only Νίκο η κ. Αµιραλή για τις εύστοχες παρατηρήσεις και χη κ. Γεώργιο Γεώργιο Αµιραλή γιακαι τιςστον εύστοχες παρατηρήσεις καιτις υποδείξεις του κ. Νίκο Βαρθαλίτη, υπάλληλο της Τυποκυκλαδικής, για impressive icons and frescoes found everywhere on the island. But not την υποµονή και την πολύτιµη βοήθειά υποδείξεις του και στον κ. Νίκο Βαρθαλίτη, υπάλληλο της Τυποκυκλαδικής, για την υποµονή και την πολύτιµη βοήθειά τ στον Βαρθαλίτη, υπάλληλο της Τυποκυκλαδικής, για στον κ. κ. Νίκο Νίκο Βαρθαλίτη, υπάλληλο της Τυποκυκλαδικής, για την υποµονή και την πολύτιµη βοήθειά του κατά τη διάρκεια του σχεδιασµού sanctuaries of stone have been built for the believers; religion is lived by the του οδηγού. του σχεδιασµού την υποµονή και την πολύτιµη βοήθειά του κατάτου τη οδηγού. διάρκεια ην βοήθειά του τη σχεδιασµού ην πολύτιµη πολύτιµη βοήθειά του κατά κατά τη διάρκεια διάρκεια του του σχεδιασµού Tinians. του οδηγού. Τέλος, ευχαριστώ τονκ.κ.Γιάννη ΓιάννηΒιδά Βιδ του οδηγού. Τέλος, ευχαριστώ τον Τέλος, ευχαριστώ τον κ. Γιάννη Βιδάλη που στήριξε ηθικά και οικονοµικά On Tinos, nature and man live in harmony. By this small informative bookτην προσπάθειά µου, αλλά κυρίως τουςγγ Τέλος, ευχαριστώ τονηθικά κ. Γιάννη Βιδάλη που στήριξε ηθικά και οικονοµικά την προσπάθειά µου, αλλά τους στώ Βιδάλη που στήριξε και οικονοµικά στώ τον τον κ. κ. Γιάννη Γιάννη Βιδάλη πουµου, στήριξε ηθικά καιτους οικονοµικά την προσπάθειά αλλά κυρίως γονείς µου που δεν παύουν ποτέ νακυρίως µε let, available now in English, hopefully its readers will be encouraged to visit ενθαρρύνουν καινα ναποτέ µουνα συµπαρίσταντα την τους προσπάθειά µου, αλλά κυρίως τους γονείς που δεν παύουν µε ενθαρρύνουν και µου συµπαρίστανται ου, γονείς µου δεν παύουν ποτέ να µε ου, αλλά αλλά κυρίως κυρίως τους γονείςκαι µου που δεν παύουν ποτέ να κάθε µεµου ενθαρρύνουν ναπου µου συµπαρίστανται σε εγχείρηµά µου. Tinos and share a unique experience. ενθαρρύνουν και ναεγχείρηµά µου συµπαρίστανται σε κάθε εγχείρηµά µου. να σε µου. να µου µου συµπαρίστανται συµπαρίστανται σε κάθε κάθε εγχείρηµά µου. Τουςευχαριστώ ευχαριστώόλους όλουςθερµά. θερµά. Τους Τους ευχαριστώ όλους θερµά. The island is waiting for you! Ζέφη Ποτήρη Ποτήρη Τους ευχαριστώ Ζέφη ώ όλους τώ όλους θερµά. θερµά. Ζέφη Ποτήρη όλους θερµά. Pierre F. Haesler Ζέφη Ποτήρη η

August 2012


κρατάτεστα σταχέρια χέριασας σαςχρειάστηκα χρειάστηκατητη κρατάτε πέρα απότις τις γνώσεις µου γιατον τοντόπο τόπο έρα από γνώσεις µου Introductionγια ςανέτρεξα. ανέτρεξα.Θα Θαχρειαζόταν χρειαζότανπολύς πολύςχώχώHistory υς πουµεµεγενναιοδωρία γενναιοδωρίακαι καιχαµόγελο χαµόγελο ς που Tradition ους,αλλά αλλάκαι καιτους τουςφορείς φορείςτου τουνησιού νησιού ους, τουςζήτησα. ζήτησα. ους The city (“Chora”) and the villages of Tinos τουςκ.κ. κ.κ.Στέφανο Στέφανο∆ελατόλα ∆ελατόλακαι καιΣτέΣτέους Sights ορίες πουµου µουέδωσαν, έδωσαν,καθώς καθώςκαι καιτον τον ρίες που Archaeological sites ατην τηνενηµέρωση ενηµέρωσησχετικά σχετικάµεµετοτοΑρχείο Αρχείο τονκ.κ.Σάββα Σάββα Απέργη σχετικά µετον τον ον Απέργη σχετικά µε Museums έθιµάAbbeys του,αλλά αλλάκαι καιταταΤήνια Τήνιατου του αιαιταταέθιµά του, -Γυφτογιάννηγια γιατοτουλικό υλικόσχετικά σχετικάµεµε Γυφτογιάννη Caves οποίηµα ποίηµαπου πουµέσα µέσααπό απότην τηνκαρδιά καρδιάτης της

Beaches ητή Αριστείδη Κοντογεώργηγια γιατιςτις τή κ.κ.Αριστείδη Κοντογεώργη Customs µία µαςεπέτρεψε επέτρεψενα ναχρησιµοποιήσουχρησιµοποιήσουία µας Products and Recipes ουσιαστική συµβολήκαι καιυποδείξεις υποδείξειςστα στα υσιαστική συµβολή Peregrination για τηνενηµέρωσή ενηµέρωσή µουσχετικά σχετικάµεµετους τους α την µου ντου τουΠρασίνου», Πρασίνου», στοπροσωπικό προσωπικότου του Routesστο ην ανταπόκριση όταν προσέτρεξα εκεί, ν ανταπόκριση όταν προσέτρεξα εκεί, Alternative tourism λύτιµεςπληροφορίες πληροφορίεςγια γιατιςτιςδιαδροµές διαδροµές λύτιµες Useful telephone numbers ύνη µουοοπ.π.Σεβαστιανός ΣεβαστιανόςΦρέρης Φρέρηςγια για νη µου µεταταΛουτρά Λουτράκαι καιτητηΜονή ΜονήΙησουϊτών Ιησουϊτών µε ουγια γιατην τηνπροσφορά προσφοράτων τωνπαραδοσιπαραδοσιου

κο Γκίζηγια γιατην τηνπολύπλευρη πολύπλευρηκαι καιαµέριαµέριο Γκίζη όβαγια γιατητηγενική γενικήσυµβολή συµβολήκαι καιβοήθειά βοήθειά όβα λήγια γιατις τιςεύστοχες εύστοχεςπαρατηρήσεις παρατηρήσειςκαι και λή λίτη, υπάλληλοτης τηςΤυποκυκλαδικής, Τυποκυκλαδικής,για για τη, υπάλληλο τουκατά κατάτητηδιάρκεια διάρκειατου τουσχεδιασµού σχεδιασµού του

δάλη πουστήριξε στήριξεηθικά ηθικάκαι καιοικονοµικά οικονοµικά άλη που γονείςµου µουπου πουδεν δενπαύουν παύουνποτέ ποτέναναµεµε γονείς αι σεκάθε κάθεεγχείρηµά εγχείρηµάµου. µου. ι σε

CONTENTS


ΠEPATH PERATI KAΛOΓEPOI KALOGEROI ∆YΣBATO DISVATO

Άγιος Θεόδωρος Ag. Theodoros

AΞENO AXENO

Π. ΚΟΥΜΕΛΑΣ KOUMELAS B.

ΟΡΜΟΣ ΚΟΡΦΟΥ KORFOS BAY

ΟΡΝΟΙ ORNI

ΛΑΤΟΜΕΙΟ ΜΑΡΜΑΡΟΥ MARBLE QUARRY

ΑΚΡ. ΑΓΚΑΝΙΣΤΗΣ AGANISTIS CAPE

ΑΜΠΕΛΑ ABELA

MALI B.

ΙΣΜΑΗΛ MAPΛAΣ ISMAIL MAMA∆OΣ MARLAS MAMADOS

ΠΛANHTHΣ PLANITIS

KABAΛOYPKO KAVALOURKO

ΠΡΟΦ. ΗΛΙΑΣ M.T. PR. ELIAS

AΓ. ΘAΛAΣΣA/ AG. THALASA BOΛIA/ VOLIA ΠANOPMOΣ PANORMOS Π. ΡΟΧΑΡΗ ROCHARI B.

Μ. Κυρά Ξένης M. Kira Xenis

ΚΑΡΑΜΠΟΥΣΑ KARABUSSA ΠYPΓOΣ PIRGOS BENAP∆A∆OΣ VENARDADOS

Π. ΒΑΘΥ B. VATHI

Αγ. Παντ Ag. Pant Άγιος Γεώργιος Ag. Georgios

Μ. Καταπολιανής M. Katapolianis

Άγιος Xαράλαµπος Ag. Charalampos

ΥΣΤΕΡΝΙΑ ISTERNIA

Π. ΒΑΘΥ VATHI B.

AΠOKOΦTOΣ APOKOFTOS

Αγ. Παρασκευή Ag. Paraskevi

ΠΛATIA PLATIA

ΚΟΡΗΣ ΠΥΡΓΟΣ KORIS PIRGOS

Θεοτόκος B΄ Εύρεση Theotokos B΄ Evresi

Π. ΟΡΜΟΣ ΥΣΤΕΡΝΙΩΝ ORMOS ISTERNION B.

KAΛΛ KALO

ΠΟΛΕΜΟΥ ΚΑΜΠΟΣ POLEMOU KAMPOS KAP∆IANH KARDIANI

KOYΣINIA KOUSINIA

Αγ. Υπακοή Ag. Ipakoi

ΟΡ. ΠΑΤΕΛΕΣ M.T. PATELES

ΟΡ. ΚΑΣΤΕ M.T. KAST

Π. ΟΡΜΟΣ ΓΙΑΝΝΑΚΗ ORMOS GIANAKI B. Π. ΚΑΛΥΒΙΑ KALIVIA B.

AB∆OΣ AVDOS

Π. ΑΓΙΟΣ ΠΕΤΡΟΣ AG. PETROS B. Π. ΚΑΝΤΑΝΗ KANTANI B.

Πανα Παναγία PanagV Panagia

Π. ΑΠΗΓΑΝΙΑ APIGANIA B.

Π. ΑΓ. ΡΩΜΑΝΟΣ AG. ROMANOS B.

Π. ΠΑΝΟΥΣΑ PANOUSA B.

Π. BOPNH VORNI B.


THNOΣ TINOS Ν. ∆ΡΑΚΟΝΗΣΙ DRAKONISI ISL. ΣEΛINOΣ SELINOS

τελεήµων Αγ. Παντελεήµων teleimon Ag. Panteleimon

Π. ΑΠΟΘΗΚΕΣ APOTHIKES B.

Προφ. Ηλίας Prof. Elias

Π. ΚΟΛΥΜΠΗΘΡΑ KOLIMBITHRA B.

ΛIMNH LAKE

Παναγία Κακή Σκάλα Panagia Kaki Skala

Παναγία Βουρνιώτισσα Panagia Vourniotisa

ΑΚΡ. ΦΕΡΟ ΓΚΡΕΜΝΟ FERO GREMNO CAPE BOPIANA VORIANA

AETOΦΩΛIA AETOFOLIA

KAPKA∆OΣ KARKADOS ΛONH KAΛΛONH ONI KALONI

KATΩ KΛEIΣMA KATO KLISMA

ΑΚΡ. ΠΑΠΑΡΓΥΡΟΣ PAPARGYROS CAPE

Aγ. γαπητός Ag. Agapitos AΓAΠH AGHAPI ΣKΛABOXΩPI SKLAVOCHORI

KΩMH KOMI

MONAΣTHPIA MONASTIRIA

ΠEPAΣTPA PERASTRA

ΕΛΛΑ ΟΡ. ΚΑΣΤΕΛΛΑ TELA M.T. KASTELA

KPOKOΣ KROKOS

M. Iησουιτών Jesuit Mon. M. Oυρσουλινών Ursulines Mon.

ΣMAP∆AKITO SMARDAKITO TAPAMΠA∆OΣ TARAMPADOS

αγία Βρυσιώτισσα Βρυσιώτισσα gia Vrisiotisa Vrisiotisa Π. ΑΓ. ΡΩΜΑΝΟΣ AG. ROMANOS B.

ΛOYTPA LOUTRA

KAMΠOΣ KAMPOS

XATZIPA∆OΣ CHATZIRADOS

BΩΛAΞ VOLAX

KOYMAPOΣ KOUMAROS

M. I. Kαρδίας H.Heart of Jesus

Aγ. Φραγκίσκος Ag. Fragiskos

ΟΡ. ΤΣΙΚΝΙΑΣ M.T. TSIKNIAS

MYPΣINH MIRSINI MEΣH MESI

Ιερά Μονή Κεχροβουνίου Kehrovouni Monastery

Προφ. Ηλίας Prof. Elias

Φανερωµένη Faneromeni

Aγ. Άννα Ag. Anna

Άγιος Γεώργιος Ag. Georgios

ΠOTAMIA POTAMIA

∆YO XΩPIA APNA∆OΣ DIO CHORIA ARNADOS TPIANTAPOΣ MΠEP∆EMIAPOΣ TRIANTAROS BERDEMIAROS

Π. ΆΓΙΟΣ ∆ΗΜΗΤΡΙΟΣ AG. DIMITRIOS B. Π. ΣΑΝΤΑ ΜΑΡΓΑΡΙΤΑ SANTA MARGARITA B.

Κιουρά των Αγγέλων Kioura Agelon Π. ΛΥΧΝΑΦΤΙΑ LICHNAFTIA B.

Αγ. Mάρκος Ag. Markos

Μ. Αγ. Τριάδος Γύρλα M. Ag. Triadas Girla

ΑΚΡ. ΓΑΣΤΡΙΑ ZEΦYPOΣ GASTRIA CAPE

Π. ΣΤΑΥΡΟΥ STAVROS B.

ΦAΛATA∆OΣ FALATADOS

ΞINAPA ΣTENH TZA∆OΣ XINARA STENI TZADOS ΕΞΩΜΒΟΥΡΓΟ EXOMVOURGO KAPYA KEXPOΣ ΣΠEPA∆OΣ KARIA KECHROS SPERADOS MOYNTA∆OΣ TPIΠOTAMOΣ MOUNTADOS TRIPOTAMOS

ΝΑΟΣ ΠΟΣΕΙΔΩΝΑ ΚΑΙ ΑΜΦΙΤΡΙΤΗΣ POSEIDON AND AMPHITRITE TEMPLE

Π. ΚΙΟΝΙΑ KIONIA B.

Παναγία Kαλαµάν Panagia Kalaman

ΣKAΛA∆OΣ SKALADOS

KTIKA∆OΣ KTIKADOS

ZEFIROS

Π. ΛΙΒΑ∆ΑΣ LIVADA B.

PETRIADOS ΠETPIAΔOΣ

AΓ. BAPBAPA AG. VARVARA

Eυαγγελίστρια Virgin Mary

ΦEPO XΩPIO FERO HORIO Π. ΠΑΧΙΑ ΑΜΜΟΣ PACHIA AMOS B. ΑΓ. ΙΩΑΝ. ΠOPTO AG. IOANNIS PORTO

ΠΑΛΛΑ∆Α PALADA XΩΡΑ ΤΗΣ ΤΗΝΟΥ TOWN OF TINOS Π. ΑΓΚΑΛΗ

ΑΚΡ. ΠΑΣΣΑΚΡΩΤΗΡΙ AGALI B. Π. ΑΓ. ΦΩΚΑΣ PASSAKROTIRI CAPE AG. FOKAS B. ΒΡΥΟΚΑΣΤΡΟ VRIOKASTRO

Π. ΑΓ. ΚΥΡΙΑΚΗΣ AG. KIRIAKI B. ΛAOYTI (ΣKYΛANTAP) LAOUTI (SKILADAR) Π. ΑΓ. ΣΩΣΤΗΣ AG. SOSTIS B.


PHOTO: ARISTEIDES KONTOGEORGIS


Ι ΣUΑCΓTΩ ΓN Η I N T R OΕ D IO

Tinos is anαποτελεί ideal destination for every traveler,κάθε because it combines various Η Τήνος τον αγαπηµένο προορισµό ταξιδιώτη, κι αυτό γιατί contrasting natural elements such hills and plains, µε mountain andτοsea, fertile συνδυάζει τα αντιθετικά στοιχεία τηςas: φύσης: το ορεινό το πεδινό, βουνό and infertile soil…The mild of the favorsτου anyνησιού kind ofευνοεί activity, while µε τη θάλασσα, το άγονο µεclimate το γόνιµο… Τοisland ήπιο κλίµα κάθε the strong summer winds the naming of Tinos as “The island of Aeolus”. είδους δραστηριότητα, ενώjustify τα «δυνατά» µελτέµια δικαιολογούν το χαρακτηριWith an area of 195 km², Tinos is the island of the Cyclades, after σµό που έχει αποδοθεί στην Τήνο: «Τοthird νησίlargest του Αιόλου». Andros Naxos (for some,χιλιόµετρα it is the fourth after Paros).καταλαµβάνει Its shape is almost Με and τα 195 τετραγωνικά έκτασης η Τήνος την triangular and belongs the geological formations of Andros Mykonos, τρίτη σε µέγεθος θέση to ανάµεσα στα νησιά των Κυκλάδων, µετά and την Άνδρο being an extension Euboia. The ridge that separates the island και τηconsidered Νάξο (κατ’ άλλους τέταρτηofµετά την Πάρο). Το σχήµα της είναι σχεδόν inτριγωνικό two parts, and southern, ends at the mountains καιnorthern ανήκει στη γραµµή Άνδρου-Μυκόνου, που είναι“Kehrovouni” προέκταση τηςand “Tsiknias”(estimated altitudeπου 714m.) where,τοaccording to mythology, Εύβοιας. Η κορυφογραµµή διαχωρίζει νησί σε δυο πλευρές, τηAeolus, βόρειαthe God the winds, had his The totalκαι length of the coastal is about και τηofνότια, καταλήγει στοpalace. «Κεχροβούνι» τον «Τσικνιά» (720line µέτρα υψό- 114 km andπερίπου), it is adorned with “frilled” sand beaches with countless creeks and capes, µετρο όπου κατά τη Μυθολογία είχε τα ανάκτορά του ο Αίολος, ο satisfying taste: or quiet, accessible through theείναι central network, θεός τωνevery ανέµων. Τοbusy συνολικό µήκος της ακτογραµµής 114road χιλιόµετρα through dirt roads or«δαντελωτές» scenic paths. Sixty thorps, moreορµίσκους, than forty ακρωof which και κατακλύζεται από ακτές two µε αναρίθµητους (as theyαλλά finally formed during the last πολυσύχναστες decades of theή20th century), τήρια, καιwere παραλίες για όλα τα γούστα: ήρεµες, προσι-are located allτου overκεντρικού the island. This multitude of villages is a rare phenomenon comτές µέσω οδικού δικτύου, χωµατόδροµων ή γραφικών µονοπαpared to other islands of the Cyclades of περισσότεροι similar size. According to the census τιών. Εξήντα δύο οικισµοί, εκ των οποίων από 40 χωριά (όπως ού ofδιαµορφώθηκαν 2001, there were inhabitants in Tinos, living between Capital and τις8.574 τελευταίες δεκαετίες του 20 αιώνα), είναιthe διάσπαρτοι στοthe rest the villages.σπάνιο The island is mostly ground. There large amounts νησί,ofφαινόµενο σε σχέση µε ταrocky υπόλοιπα νησιά τωνare Κυκλάδων και ofαναλογικά granite, schist marble (white green).Theτου flora consists of bushes and µε τοand µέγεθός του. Κατά and την απογραφή 2001 καταµετρήθηκαν trees (cedars, myrtles, ulex est.) as wellείναι as aromatic plantsστην thatπρωτεύουσα can be used και in de8.574 κάτοικοι της Τήνου, οι οποίοι µοιρασµένοι coctions and cooking (sage, chamomile, oregano, caper etc.) The fauna consists στα χωριά της. of pigeons, rabbits, hares, partridges, migratory birds (turtledoves, Κύριο χαρακτηριστικό του νησιούand είναιseveral το βραχώδες του εδάφους. Υπάρquails and more) with a passage between September andκαιFebruary. χουν µεγάλες ποσότητες γρανίτη, duration σχιστόλιθου ή µαρµάρου (λευκού πράThe economy of the island depends mostlyφυτά on agriculture, seafaring, fishing, σινου). Στη χλωρίδα ανήκουν τα θαµνώδη (κέδροι, µυρτιές, σπάρτα κλπ)and tourism (mostly during theπου summer), but alsoωςonαφεψήµατα the uniqueήgreen marble and και θαµνολιβαδικά φυτά χρησιµεύουν στη µαγειρική several other stone sorts,ρίγανη, which are on the of the exported, along (φασκόµηλο, χαµοµήλι, κάπαρη και list άλλα). Τηνproducts πανίδα αποτελούν τα with vegetables, fruit, potatoes, products, (Tinoscheese, gruyere, “kopanisti”), αγριοπερίστερα, οι λαγοί, τα dairy αγριοκούνελα, οι πέρδικες, καθώς και διάφορα thyme-honey of optimal quality and the marvelous “rozaki”(reddish) grape. αποδηµητικά πουλιά (τρυγόνια, ορτύκια και άλλα) µε πέρασµα από Σεπτέµβριο έως Φεβρουάριο. Η οικονοµία του νησιού βασίζεται κυρίως στη γεωργία, τη ναυτιλία, την αλιεία και τον τουρισµό (κυρίως κατά τους θερινούς µήνες), ενώ στα εξαγώγιµα προϊόντα του νησιού ανήκουν το µοναδικό πράσινο µάρµαρο και άλλα πετρώµατα, τα λαχανικά, τα οπωροκηπευτικά, οι πατάτες, τα γαλακτοκοµικά (τυράκι Τήνου, γραβιέρα, κοπανιστή), το αρίστης ποιότητας θυµαρίσιο µέλι και το περίφηµο «ροζακί» σταφύλι.


PHOTO: ARISTEIDES KONTOGEORGIS


History Ιστορία

www.tinos360.gr www.tinos360.gr


12

H I S TO RY

The name’s origin Tinos got its name from King Tino, the first resident of the island and chief of a group of Ionians from Karia of Asia Minor, which first inhabited the island during pre-historical. A local tradition ascribes the name to princess Tinos. Subsequent reports want the island to have been also named as “Idrousa”, due to the innumerable sources and waters in the place, but also “Ofiousa”or “Fidousa” from the number of snakes (fidia) existing. According to some surveyors the last appellation has been wrongly interpreted, due to the fact that “Fides” or “Efides” is some kind of cedar that was flourishing on the island( Today we can find it only in the area of Panormos), and not reptiles.The special status this plant holds in the life of the Tinians can be ascertained by its wide use on buildings, like houses and stables, since it is solid and durable through dampness and clothes moth. In the ancientry, Aristophanes in “Skordoforos” refers to Tinos for its prime quality garlic (Skordo), Callimachus refers to it in “Agathousa”, Aristotelian in “Idrousa”, and from Demosthenes and Echinus in “Erousa”. Today, Tinos also occupies the term “The island of Aeolus” because of its strong northers.

PHOTO: ARISTEIDES KONTOGEORGIS


MYTHOLOGY

PHOTO: IOANNIS VIDALIS

Mythology Tinos «carries» its myths and traditions just like every other place in Greece. The mountain “Tsiknias”, the highest peak of the island (714 m), is connected to mythology. In ancient times it was called «Girai Petrai» (old rocks) or “Gyros”, due to the “Gyraieis”, one of the twelve tribes of Tinos, who inhabited the southern slopes of the mountain. According to Appollodorus, after the campaign of the Argonauts,“Argo” anchored near the island and both Children of “Borias” (Northern) and “Oritheias”, “Zitis” and “Kalain”, found shelter on this mountain. Hercules was infuriated because “Borias” strangled his friend “Ila”, with his winds, so he chased them, killed them, and buried them separately in this place. It is said that when their father, “Borias”, found out about this, he mourned and, because of his great anger, let the winds free on the island to blow with rage until today. Another myth is based on the poems of “Homer”.“Odyssey” narrates that “Ajax” (Aias from Lokrid) returned from “Troy” and was shipwrecked on the Tinos coasts. Due to the fact that he committed “hybris” (meaning disrespect) against “Poseidon”, the god killed him on “Tsiknias”. Other ancient sources report that, in the same area, God Aeolus or ”Borias” was worshipped and the believers had founded a sanctuary and a thorp there. It is also said that “Tsiknias” inherited its name from the word “tsikna” (the smell from roasting meat) when the animals were being sacrificed in honor of the God.The abundance of vases and pottery on the site is a proof of this version. The relationship between the mountain, “Borias” and “Aeolus” is so tight, because of the fact that the mountain is usually cloudy and its peak is often hidden behind thick fog.

13


14 14

Y ΙHΣI ΤS T ΟOΡ RΙ Α

ΙστορικήRetrospective Αναδροµή Historical Tinos, as όπως proved by archaeological findings, has beenκατοικείται inhabitedαπό since Η Τήνος, µαρτυρούν τα αρχαιολογικά ευρήµατα, τα pre-history. προϊστορικά χρόνια και είναι ένα από τα νησιά της Ελλάδας που παρουσιάζουν It is one of the κατοίκησης. Greek islandsΚατά that την present signs of πρώτοι continuous inhabitation. σηµάδια συνεχούς παράδοση, κάτοικοι ήταν οι According to tradition, the first dwellers were the “Kares” and the Κάρες και οι Λέλεγες. “Leleges”. Ο παλαιότερος οικισµός που υπάρχει στο νησί είναι στη θέση «ΒρυόκαThe oldest remainsΑπό found the island on aβρεθεί hill called στρο» ή «Βρέκαστρο». τα on όστρακα πουare έχουν στην“Vriocastro”or περιοχή, µαρ“Vrecastro”. Human settlement, starting during the age of Copper, or the τυρείται κατοίκηση που ανάγεται στην Εποχή του Χαλκού ή Πρωτο-Κυκλαδική First Cycladic Age is documented by pottery that has been found in the area, Εποχή (3000-2300 π.Χ.), ενώ ο οικισµός οχυρώνεται κατά τη Μέση Εποχή του which was later fortified during the middle age of copper, or the MiddleΧαλκού ή Μεσο-Κυκλαδική (2300-1600 π.Χ.). Γενικότερα, την περίοδο εκείνη Cycladic Age (2300-1600 BC). Generally, during that era, the phenomenon απαντάται συχνά το φαινόµενο συγκέντρωσης πληθυσµού σε στρατηγικές θέof the population concentrating on a strategic spot was often encountered, σεις (όπως είναι και το Βρυόκαστρο). like in “Vriocastro”. Η του νησιού καιproves, κατά τη(situated Μυκηναϊκή Εποχή, όπως Asιστορία the domical grave συνεχίζεται of St. Thecla near the village µαρτυρεί ο µυκηναϊκός θολωτός τάφος στην Αγία Θέκλα (κοντά στο χωριό of Pirgos, and dating from the 13th century BC) the history of the island ος ος ος Πύργος) (13 αι π.Χ.). περίοδοAge. τωνDuring Σκοτεινών Αιώνωνof(12 π.Χ.) continues through theΤην Mycaenan the period the-10 “Darkαι Cenπειρατείες και επιδροµές των «Λαών της Θαλάσσης» παρατηρούνται σε όλη τη turies” (12th-10th century BC), piracies and invasions made by the “Nations Μεσόγειο, οποίες αποφεύγονται τη µετατόπιση των οικισµών σε θέσειςof the Sea”οιare being observed allµεover the Mediterranean. These attacks were movingαυτήν the human settlements to places that are natural φυσικάavoided οχυρά. by Άλλωστε, την εποχή χρονολογείται το Κυκλώπειο τείχος ος ος strongholds. στο Ξώµπουργο. Στη Γεωµετρική περίοδο (9 -8 αι π.Χ.) ανάγεται οικισµός The Cyclopean Wall is dated duringµε thisτάφους-«γεωµετρική period of time, in «Xomburgo». κοντά στο χωριό Καρδιανή, σύµφωνα νεκρόπολη» The Geometric Period remains (9th8th century BC) are to be near και άλλα ευρήµατα που έχουν ανακαλυφθεί. Κατά τους πρώιµους found Αρχαϊκούς the village of ος «Kardiani», specifically in some excavated tombs- otherwise χρόνους (7 αι π.Χ.) το κέντρο του νησιού µετατοπίζεται στο Ξώµπουργο. called “Geometrical Necropolis”as well asστα other that haveαιώνα, been Από τις ανασκαφές του Ν. Κοντολέοντος µισάantiquities του περασµένου discovered. During the early ancient years (7th century BC), the centre of το σηµαντικότερο από τα ευρήµατα που έρχονται στο φως είναι το Ιερό της the island is transferred to «Xomburgo». From the excavations of N. KonΜεγάλης Θεάς (ή ∆ήµητρας µεταγενέστερα) και οι µεγάλοι ανάγλυφοι πίθοι toleon, in the middle of the last century, the most important finding that που βρίσκονταν µέσα σ’ αυτό. Μετά το πέρας της ταραγµένης αυτής περιόδου came into light is the sanctuary of the “Great Goddess” called Demetra, και τις επιδροµές, η Τήνος (µαζί µε τις περισσότερες περιοχές της Ελλάδας) later on (Ceres) and the large relief-adorned jars that were found inside it. µετατοπίζει το κέντρο της από το οχυρωµένο Ξώµπουργο περιοχή After the end of this unstable eraφυσικά and the invasions, Tinos -along σε with most πιο ανοιχτή. places in Greece-, transferred its centre, from the naturally fortified XomΚατά Ύστερους Αρχαϊκούς χρόνους (6ος αι π.Χ.) καθώς και τους Κλαburgo, to aτους more open location. σικούς, η πρωτεύουσα του νησιού χαµηλά, During the later ancient yearsεντοπίζεται (6th century BC), κοντά as wellστη as θάλασσα, the Clasγύρω από το σηµερινό Ναό της Παναγίας στη Χώρα. Από τα σηµαντικά sic Period, the Capital of the island is detected at a lower location byέργα the της περιόδου αξίζει να αναφερθούν το Πεισιστράτειο Υδραγωγείο στηamong θέση sea, around the present Temple of Virgin Mary. Worth mentioning, the important masterpieces of period,π.Χ. is the Aqueduct of της Ληνοπής (κατασκευάστηκε σταthis 549-542 καιPeisistratus το οποίο µέχρι το 1934 “Linopi” (constructed during 549-542 BC), which provided water to the παρείχε νερό στη σηµερινή Χώρα), καθώς και το Ιερό του Ποσειδώνα και της harbor town untilθέση 1934,Κιόνια, as wellχώρο, as Poseidon’ s and Amphitrite’ s’ Αµφιτρίτης (4ος(Chora) αι π.Χ.) στη όπου λατρευόταν ιδιαίτερα, Sanctuary at “Kionia”, a site dedicated to their worship. αφού αποτελούσε το µοναδικό στις Κυκλάδες Ιερό αφιερωµένο εξολοκλήρου This was the only sanctuary in the Cyclades, dedicated to the God of the Sea.


ΦΩΤΟ: ΖΕΦΗ ΠΟΤΗΡΗ

PHOTO: ZEFI POTIRI

ΙΣΤΟΡΙΑ & ΠΟΛΙΤΙΣΜΟΣ 15


16 16

Y ΙHΣI ΤS T ΟOΡ RΙ Α

ANCIENT TINIAN COINS ΑΡΧΑΙΑ ΝΟΜΙΣΜΑΤΑ ΤΗΝΟΥ The Ενδιαφέρον ancient coins discovered in Tinos are of που greatβρέθηκαν interest,στην dueΤήνο, to the fact προκαλούν τα αρχαία νοµίσµατα καθώς that the engraved configurations indicate considerable features of the island. από τις παραστάσεις που είναι χαραγµένες διαφαίνονται κύρια χαρακτηριστικά του One specific coin, which was also που the ήταν mostκαιprevalent of its time, απεικονίζει bears the νησιού. Ένα χαρακτηριστικό νόµισµα, το πιο διαδεδοµένο, bustµια ofπλευρά the ancient God του of the Sea Poseidon depictedΠοσειδώνα, on one side, στη την προτοµή αρχαίου θεού της θάλασσας ενώwhile στην on the other side, a trident is depicted (symbol of that same God) encircled άλλη υπάρχει µια τρίαινα (σύµβολο του ίδιου θεού) πλαισιωµένη από δυο δελφίνια. by two dolphins. That ότι is why that Tinos, this specific Συµπεραίνουµε, λοιπόν, µέσωwe τουassume νοµίσµατος αυτού through η Τήνος προέβαλε τη coin, wished stand a naval power. απεικονίζουν Other coins,είτε revealing an κρατώντας abundant ναυτική δύναµηtoπου είχε.asΆλλα νοµίσµατα το Βάκχο production of wineείτεonτοthe either Bacchusπου holding grapesτην or σταφύλι και θύρσο, ∆ία island, Άµµωναdepict και βότρυ σταφυλής, φανερώνουν Thyrsus, as well as Zeus. πλούσια παραγωγή κρασιού του νησιού.

ΦΩΤΟ: ΑΡΙΣΤΕΙ∆ΗΣ ΚΟΝΤΟΓΕΩΡΓΗΣ

PHOTO: ARISTEIDES KONTOGEORGIS

under στο Furthermore, θεό της Θάλασσας. Μάaλιστα, certain period of time, σύµφωνα µε πηγές, ο the God was worshipped θεός λατρευόταν στην Τήνο also as a healer in Tinos. και ως γιατρός µέχρι κάποια In 338 BC, Philip II conστιγµή. Το π.Χ. ο Φίλιπquered the338 Cyclades, and πος Β’ κατέλαβε after the deathτιςofΚυκλάδες Alexanκαι, µετά θάνατο του Μ. der the το Great, Antigonus and later Ptolemy (King of Αλεξάνδρου, ο Αντίγονος Egypt) ruled inοTinos. After και αργότερα Πτολεµαί300 BC, Tinos was free and ος (βασιλιάς της Αιγύπτου) in 270 BC it was declared εξουσίασαν την Τήνο. Μετά as a Holy Island. In 146 BC, το 300 π.Χ. dominated η Τήνος ήταν the Romans the ελεύθερη το became 270 π.Χ.a island and και Tinos ονοµάστηκε Ιερόprovince νησί. of branch of the 146Despite π.Χ. στοthat, νησί Asia Το Minor. it enjoyed self-determination επικράτησε Ρωµαϊκή κυριαρand freedom untilαποτέλεσε the midχία και η Τήνος dle of the 2nd century τµήµα της Επαρχίας της AC, Μ. when piracy with repeated Ασίας. Ωστόσο, απολάµβαenslavements of the inhabνε αυτονοµίας και ελευθερίitants, hit the island. During ου ας ως τα µέσα του µ.Χ., the Byzantine era,2 it αι lapsed όταν ηobscurity, πειρατεία for και οιit συνεinto was being attacked by various χείς υποδουλώσεις έπλητταν intruders (Arabians, Saτο νησί. Κατά τη διάρκεια racens, Goths, Ottomans, των βυζαντινών χρόνων πεand more). Later on, some


H istoric a l R etros p ect

PHOTO: ZEFI POTIRI

earthquakes hit the island, combined with consecutive pestilence years (one of them lasted 52 years,) decimating the population. Until the crusades and the so called “Francs” (western crusaders), Tinos was experiencing the “Dark Years”. In 1207 the Venetian brothers Andreas and Jeremiah Ghizi gained the administration of Tinos and Mykonos.The “Ghizis” fortified the Castle of Xomburgo, in order to provide security for the island because, until then, it was defenseless towards invaders, due to the lack of fortified walls. Tinos is the only island that hasn’t been under the dominance of the Turkish Empire, except in 1715, for a very short period of time. It was then that Xomburgo was deserted by its inhabitants, and the island’s Capital was transferred to the location of the contemporary “Town” (Chora). A brief Russian dominance followed, and in 1821 the first the village in Tinos to raise the flag of the Greek revolution was “Pyrgos”, under the guidance of G. Palamaris. The finding of the Annunciation Icon, which gave courage and faith to the freedom fighters, supported the Greek tenacity which resulted in victory against the Turkish Empire. After liberation, the island flourished in every field, particularly in Culture and the Arts. As a consequence, Tinos island became “the birthplace” of important cultural personalities during this period of time. Most of all, it gave support to the nation’s battles, provided shelter to refugees and, later on, contributed substantially to the national resistance against the German occupation of Greece.

17


18

H I S TO RY

Important dates for the island In 480 B.C During the Midan Era (492-479 B.C), Tinos was conquered by the Persians. However, according to Herodotus, the Tinian trireme led by Panetius of Sosimenis, defects and joins the Greek fleet, while informing the Greeks about the Persian plans, just before the battle of Salamis. This heroic action of the Tinians contributed considerably to the victorious outcome of the sea battle for the Greeks.The Panetius trireme is today the symbol of the Municipality of Tinos. The Battle of Platees (479 B.C) Due to the important contribution of Tinos in this battle, the name “Tinos” was written on the dedicative Delphic trestle. 4th century A.C. Tinos joins the Christian Faith and the ancient Greek Dodekatheon (twelve-god cult) is renounced, along with the Sanctuary of Poseidon and Amphitrite in “Kionia”, after centuries of worship. Byzantine years. The island belongs to Greece and is the target of repeated incursions by the Saracens and several other tribes. 1207. Tinos is submitted to the Venetian rule, primarily as a dominion of the Ghizi family (1207-1390) and subsequently, until 1715, under the direct administration of the Saint Marcus Democracy. The continuous presence of the Venetians and the special status agreed upon between them and the Tinian society, played a very important role in the shaping of Tinos social characteristics. The island became the shelter of hunted Greeks, ensuring them stability and relative safety. Such conditions affected the local society by creating a special kind of feudalism, when culture and religion was concerned. (Noteworthy is the presence of the Catholic dogma.) 1538. The island is being plundered by the Pirate Hayreddin Barbarossa. June 15th 1715. The Turks, after 11 abortive attempts and in collaboration with the Venetians, conquered the island, one of the last not enslaved places in Greece. Their presence, though, is almost typical. Tinos, taking advantage of some favorable conditions, is spectacularly successful. It is independently ruled, attains financial development and excels in commercial activities and handicrafts. Tinos achieves a particular prominence in marble carving, thus becoming the biggest centre of this sort in Greece, with whole families dedicated to the Art of Marble, travelling throughout Greece,Asia Minor and the Balkans. Moreover, island heritage, religion and schools were well preserved, as was the system of no taxation that the Tinian people were used to. 1771-1774. A brief Russian stay on the island during the revolution of the Orlof brothers.


H istoric a l R etros p ect

March, 31st 1821. The borough of Tinos, Pyrgos, is the first to raise the

banner of the Greek revolution at the so called “External Side” (Exo Meria). “Chora”, the capital followed on the 20th of April, while Tinos contributed a lot to the cause of freedom on land and sea. January, 30th 1823. “From inside the Earth, the holy icon surfaced, revealing the freedom of Greece.” The finding of the miraculous icon of Virgin Mary, after the holy vision of a nun named Pelaghia, reinstated the island as the major contemporary symbol of our homeland and the Orthodox Faith. 1895. The “Tinians” (a local celebration combined with sports events) was organized on the island. These games are the precursors of the revival of Olympic Games of 1896 in Greece. August 15th 1940. The Italians torpedoed and sunk the Greek Navy cruiser “Elli” at the port of Tinos, while the island was crowded with pilgrims, on the very day of the religious celebration of the 15th of August. Mercifully, no one got hurt among the thousands of pilgrims, a fact that was considered as a miracle of Virgin Mary.

PHOTO: DIMITRIS KORRES

19


20 20

Y & TU ΙHΣI ΤS T ΟOΡ RΙ Α & CΠUΟL Λ Ι ΤRΙEΣ Μ Ο Σ

ΤΗΝΙΑ 1895 “TINIA 1895” The “Tinian Games”, precursor of the first modern time Olympic Games of «Τήνια» διοργανώθηκαν στην Τήνο το τριήµερο της 15ης Αυγούστου 1895. 1896 Τα in Athens, were celebrated during the three day binge of the 15th of August Αποτέλεσαν τον προποµπό των Ολυµπιακών Αγώνων κατά την αναβίωσή τους το celebration in 1895. 1896, αιώνες έπειτα από την κατάργησή τους (4ος αι. µ.Χ.). Απηχούσαν το αρχαίο They constituted the rebirth of the Olympic Games during 1896, many cenολυµπιακό πνεύµα, καθώς οι αγώνες τους εντάχθηκαν στις θρησκευτικές εκδηλώσεις, turies after their abrogation (4th century AC).They reflected the Olympian spirit, όπως γινόταν και κατά την αρχαιότητα. Την πρωτοβουλία για τη διοργάνωση αυτών while their games were integrated with religious celebrations, like they had been των αγώνων είχε ο Τήνιος γυµναστής και δικηγόρος Ξενοφών Σώχος. Μετά από during the ancient years. The Tinian gymnast and lawyer Xenophon Sohos had άρνηση του Πανελλήνιου Γυµναστικού Συλλόγου, ο Εθνικός Γυµναστικός Σύλλογος the initiative for the organization of those Games. After the refusal of the Panδέχτηκε να αναλάβει τη διοργάνωση. Πόσο µεγάλη δύναµη και λάµψη είχε η Hellenic Gymnastic Association, the National Gymnastic Association accepted to Μεγαλόχαρη στην ελεύθερη και αλύτρωτη Ελλάδα την εποχή εκείνη φαίνεται από sponsor the enterprise. The great power and resplendence that the Virgin Mary το πλήθος των πιστών και επισκεπτών που προσήλθαν. Όµως, αξίζει να αναφερθεί Sanctuary had in the free and unredeemed Greece, can be proven by the great ότι το Πανελλήνιο Ιερό Ίδρυµα Ευαγγελιστρίας Τήνου προσέφερε τη µεγαλύτερη number of believers and visitors that came to attend. Furthermore it is worth χρηµατική ενίσχυση και όχι µόνο. Απόδειξη αποτελεί το ποσό των 2000 δραχµών mentioning that the Greek Holy Institute of the Annunciation of Tinos provided (υπέρογκο ποσό για τα δεδοµένα της εποχής) που προσέφερε το Ίδρυµα, έναντι των the largest economic support. The amount of 2000 Drachmas (a very substan70 δραχµών που συνεισέφερε ο ∆ήµος Τήνου. tial amount in those years) is an indication of the extension of sponsoring by Από τα Τήνια του 1895 έχουν σωθεί δυο µόνο µετάλλια. Στη µια πλευρά είναι the Holy Institution, in comparison to the 70 Drachmas that the Municipality of χαραγµένη η σκηνή του Ευαγγελισµού, ενώ στην άλλη απεικονίζεται ένας οπλίτης Tinos contributed with. µε ασπίδα χωρίς δόρυ όµως, σύµβολο της ειρήνης που ήθελαν να προβάλουν οι From the “Tinians” of 1895, only two medallions have been saved. On one αγώνες αυτοί. side, there is an engraving representing the scene of the Annunciation and on the Έπειτα από 111 χρόνια, το 2006, τα Τήνια αναβίωσαν στην πατρίδα τους, την other, a soldier without a spear is depicted, as a symbol of the peace that those Τήνο. Σ’ αυτό το σηµαντικό για το νησί αθλητικό γεγονός έλαβαν µέρος όλοι οι games wanted to represent. After 111 years, in 2006, the “Tinian” games were φορείς του νησιού, οι οποίοι και ανέλαβαν και τη χρηµατοδότησή του. Όπως και το once again celebrated in their birthplace. All the local institutions participated in 1895, τη διοργάνωση ανέλαβε ο Εθνικός Γ.Σ. και έλαβαν µέρος οι ίδιοι σύλλογοι. this important sports event, sponsoring it at the same time. Like in 1895, the NaΜετά την επιτυχία τους, αποφασίστηκε να λαµβάνουν χώρα τα Τήνια στο νησί κάθε tional Gymnastic Association undertook the organization, in addition to its parτέσσερα χρόνια, όπως ακριβώς και οι Ολυµπιάδες. ticipating in it. After the Games` success, it was decided that the “Tinians” would be arranged on the island, every four years, exactly like the Olympic Games.


PHOTO: ARISTEIDES KONTOGEORGIS


PHOTO: ARISTEIDES KONTOGEORGIS


Tradition

www.tinos360.gr


PHOTO: ARISTEIDES KONTOGEORGIS


V ill a ges Π ΑoΡfΑ T∆inos ΟΣΗ

Η Τήνοςhas έχειbeen χαρακτηριστεί «νησί της τέχνης της οµορφιάς», “Tinos called theως“island of Art andκαιBeauty”, as it is καθώς full of είναι διάσπαρτη µε αριστουργήµατα αρχιτεκτονικής. Είναι προικισµένη τη architectural masterpieces. It is gifted by nature, not only for its rareαπό sorts φύση, αφενός µε σπάνια πετρώµατα, όπως το πράσινο και λευκό µάρµαρο, ο of stone, like the white and the green marble, schist and granite, but also for σχιστόλιθος και which ο γρανίτης, µε the το περιβάλλον της, το οποίο ευits environment, favorsκαι andαφετέρου stimulates artistic inclination of human νοεί και διεγείρει το καλλιτεχνικό συναίσθηµα. Γι’ αυτό, άλλωστε, «γέννησε» beings. That is why it is the «birthplace» of many acclaimed artists in both πλήθος καλλιτεχνών τόσο στην architecture and theπου restδιέπρεψαν of the figurative Arts.αρχιτεκτονική, όσο και στις υπόλοιπες τέχνες.

The Countryside of Tinos

ΦΩΤΟ: ΖΕΦΗ ΠΟΤΗΡΗ

Η ύπαιθρος της Τήνουof Tinos presents a great Alongside with architecture, the countryside interest. The climate and the environment shaped theπαρουσιάζει structure ofκαι theηharΜαζί µε την αρχιτεκτονική, εξαιρετικό ενδιαφέρον Τηvest fields, with the help of the local laborers. Thereby, the peasants νιακή ύπαιθρος. Το κλίµα και το περιβάλλον της Τήνου προσδιόρισαν transκαι τη formed the high slopes into cultivable land by means of constructing sustainµορφή των χωραφιών, αλλά και καθόρισαν τις ασχολίες των ντόπιων. Έτσι οι ing stone-walls (or “scales” in the local dialect) which they created, building

PHOTO: ZEFI POTIRI

χωρικοί µετέτρεψαν τις (like απότοµες πλαγιές καλλιεργήσιµο χώρο µε τις even αναthem with dry stones benches). Thisσεusage was present in Tinos βαθµίδες (ή «σκάλες» στην ντόπια διάλεκτο) που δηµιούργησαν, χτίζοντας µε during antiquity.The phenomenon existed already since the 4th century BC, ξερολιθιές «πεζούλες». συνήθεια namely thatαναληµµατικούς the inhabitantsτοίχους, of the island used toΑυτή giveηthis form toυπήρχε theseστην narrow earthχρόνια. along the the island hills, sustaining the earth π.Χ. υπάρχουν µαρτυρίες ότι οι Τήνοbands από ταofαρχαία Ήδηslopes τον 4οofαιώνα masses in between. Indeed those “scales” were also called “Trafos” (ana-

25 25


26

TRADITION

grammatism of the ancient Greek word (tafros) “trench”) and they formed natural water tanks or cultivable land. In this way, the surface becomes even, the ground is kept back and doesn’t drift away because of the rains. On the inside part of the “scale”, fig trees or vineyards are planted, so they

PHOTO: ARISTEIDES KONTOGEORGIS

can protect the crops from northern winds, but also in order to preserve humidity. The farmers’ access into their property is allowed through narrow paths, similarly built with dry stones along the borders of the fields, usually with steps due to the inclination of the ground. These paths provide a pleasant experience to the visitor, either when tracking or walking, or merely observing. On the places where water is found, mostly through digging wells, the farmers prefer to create olive and citrus groves and fruit gardens. In this attempt, the prevailing conditions in those places play a very important role. In the low plains in the center of the island, around the village of “Komi” the fields are being protected from the animals with dikes, which also help preserve dampness.


PHOTO: ARISTEIDES KONTOGEORGIS

V ill a ges o f T inos

Villages of Tinos The majority of the thorps of Tinos were established in the 17th century and it was then they reached their peak. Their form was influenced by a variety of factors. The most important were the weather and the winds that prevail on the island, as well as landscape and the social and historical environment. The invasions through sea during several historical periods, forced the locals into human settlements in the inside of the island, building the majority of their settlements there. Built in the rural areas of Tinos surrounded by mountains, (like the villages “Volax”, “Pyrgos”) they weren’t visible to the enemy. For that matter, the use of the local schist that is plentiful on the island contributed to this solution, as did the closeness between the houses that were built one upon the other. Surely, some boroughs have a view of the sea (for example the villages “Kardiani” and “Isternia”) but they were also protected from the East, where the biggest danger came from. The winds that hit the island, particularly the northern ones, are stronger than on the other islands of the Aegean. This resulted in building the majority of the villages on sheltered places. The Tinian craftsmen, cleverly taking advantage of the topography of the ground, oriented the villages in such a way, so they could achieve exposure to the sun and good ventilation, but at the same time, protection from the powerful winds. Furthermore, some other weather conditions influenced the shaping of the Tinian house.

27


28

TRADITION

The presence of flat terrace roofs is caused by lack of snow and intense rainfalls, while the arches in the alleys of the villages protect from rain and sun. Always near the verges of mountain slopes, the Tinian villages take advantage of the water supply and the fertility of the fields for their crops. In conclusion, topography and the local environment conditions played a really important role in shaping the villages and the construction of the houses, positioned according to the existing PHOTO: ZEFI POTIRI landscape of the island. The earth slopes with the “scales”, similar to what was mentioned for the countryside, had a similar effect in village planning. The island’s rock beds were widely used by the local builders, that is, the schist and dry stones of the house walls, the marble on the alley pavements and elsewhere, to the extension each owner afforded. The Tinian architecture is original. In spite of the Venetian presence on the island for many centuries, any western elements were rather limited. Only in some exceptions, we can see marble columns, a characteristic of western buildings and churches. PHOTO: ZEFI POTIRI


V ill a ges o f T inos

PHOTO: ZEFI POTIRI

The Turkish occupation in Tinos didn’t leave any architectural remains.The short period of time the captors occupied the island (1715-1821 with intervals) contributed to this situation.

PHOTO: ZEFI POTIRI

29


30

TRADITION

The main feature of Tinos villages is the lack of entrenchment or the nonexistent fortification, with the only exception being the Castle-Xomburgo, due to the previously mentioned circumstances. This is mainly due to the specially established order that Tinos and the Venetian captors had agreed on, thus preserving the island`s self-determination. The structure of the villages indicates how “close” the society of the village was, with one house stuck to the other. The roads and paths of the thorps form a tight web, following the inclination of the ground. Many villages have public buildings, such as schools, community establishments and more. Furthermore, the fountains, the open spaces for the festivals, the town-squares, are lively places for a pleasant living. The main feature of the Cycladic town planning is the space forming a neighborhood. The biggest emphasis is given to the town square and the church, which often coexist or are very close. All public buildings or meeting places (e.x cafeterias) or commercial places (like stores) are placed around the main square i.e. the village center of social life. In big villages there are sometimes more than one squares. Unfortunately, in the Harbor Town (Chora), due to concurrency over precious city space for commercial purposes, things are PHOTO: ZEFI POTIRI different. The traditional public space structure is different here and emphasis is given on the water-front and the port. However, neighborhoods based on the traditional town planning still exist in Chora. The appellation of many villages in Tinos comes from the long period of feudalism prevailing on the island. An example of that are some village names ending in –ados. Some other villages, “Komi”, “Pyrgos”, “Steni” and more, bear witness about their founding in ancient times (for ex. Komi = Town (Chora) during the ancient classical period.) Others, owe their name to the first inhabitants the “Kares”, for example “Karia”, though others have been given their name by some characteristics of the area such as “Loutra” (Βathing resorts), “Tripotamos”(Three Rivers), “Krokos”(Crocus).


T he T ini a n H ouse

The Tinian House

PHOTO: ARISTEIDES KONTOGEORGIS

The houses on the island constitute a marvelous example of folk art. They stand out for their simplicity and functional design. They are small with few openings, which are rare at the sides facing north, like in other Mediterranean settlements. In the old days, the house façades were left without paint in order to melt with the environment. Today they are whitewashed or otherwise painted in light colors, mainly for the sake of cleanliness and secondly for reflecting the intense sunlight, in order to avoid overheating. The building materials used here are mostly local marble and schist, whereas the whitewash is used in construction and decoration, or for crack coverage. The floor is covered with schist or with “compact” dir t. The traditional Tinian houses usually consist of one spacious room, the lounge, which is used as a reception for visitors, two or three smaller rooms, the bedrooms, directly connected to the main room (depending on the number of the family members), situated on the back or the sides, a kitchen with a fireplace (which is mainly used for cooking and not for heating). The basement floor is placed under the living quar ters, where all the agricultural products are stored, as well as the oven, and the rooms where the harvest elaboration is taking place, such as the wine-press room, the raki-brewing room, the barn and more.

31


ΦΩΤΟ: ΖΕΦΗ ΠΟΤΗΡΗ

32 32

TR Π Α AΡ D Α I∆TΟI O ΣN Η

σπάνια βόρειο Περιβάλλεται απόfront κτιστούς τοίχους, τα Theέχει yard, open προσανατολισµό. or rarely indoors, is usually on the side of the buildπεζούλια, «ντυµένους» µε πλάκες σαν διπλό περβάζι It(το ing, on theσυνήθως first floor, which almost alwaysµαρµάρου, has a southern orientation. is ένα χαµηλότερο), όπου κάποιος µπορεί να καθίσει και να χαρεί τη µαγευτική surrounded by walls, banquettes, usually clad with marble tiles, as a double θέα Αιγαίου Πελάγους. ρόλος της αυλήςsomeone ήταν και can είναιsitσηµαντικός, καledgeτου (with one of the partsΟshorter), where and enjoy the θώς γύρω της αναπτύσσεται η ζωή και η κοινωνία της οικογένειας. Άλλωστε magical view of the Aegean Sea.The role of the front yard was and still is imδεδοµένος είναιsocial και οlife «εξοπλισµός» αυλής: around πάγκοι, it. τραπέζι, αλτάνες για portant, as the of the familyτης gravitates The equipment of τα λουλούδια, σταµνοθήκες, σκάλα για τον πάνω όροφο ή την ταράτσα κλπ. the yard includes: benches, tables, flower beds, chairs and stairs for the upper Ο πρώτος µε το και with το δρόµο, συνήθως µεand µια floor or theόροφος terrace.επικοινωνεί The first floor is ισόγειο connected the ground floor εξωτερική σκάλα by από ή σχιστόλιθο. Η κύρια είσοδος, πουentrance, στα πεthe road usually anµάρµαρο open staircase, often marble-clad. The main ρισσότερα σπίτιαhouses βρίσκεται της which in most is inστη theµέση middle πρόσοψης του σπιτιού ανάµεσα στα παof the house façade, between the winράθυρα, διακοσµηµένη µε υπέρθυdows, is είναι decorated with semi-circular ρα. Στην οροφή του σπιτιού –ταράτσαmarble lintels. On the house-roof or terrace there are beautiful chimneys, υπάρχουν υπέροχες καµινάδες, οι οποίεςa real pleasure to the eye. ευχαρίστηση In many houses δηµιουργούν αισθητική µε these chimneys have the form of a clay τις λιτές τους γραµµές. Σε πολλά σπίτια, jar. This use of σηµείο materials always ideal στο ψηλότερο τηςisκαµινάδας τοfor the purpose they serve; the practical ποθετείται ένα πήλινο πιθάρι. Μία τέτοια side is combined beautiful design, ιδανική χρήση τωνwith υλικών δίνει µια ιδέα serving human needs perfectly. για το πώς οι πρακτικές και αισθητικές On the inside, the houses have quite ανάγκες των ανθρώπων µπορούν άψογα simple lines, with the only decorative να συνταιριαστούν. characteristic being the main arch, comΕσωτερικά, τα σπίτια έχουν πολύ λιmonly called “Volto”, placed in the midτές µε µοναδικά διακοσµητικά dle γραµµές, of the lounge. Other elements are στοιχεία το ηµικυκλικό τόξο, το «βόλτο» the built-in niches in the walls (smaller όπως ονοµάζεται, στοdifferent µέσο της σάλας or larger for placing objects). και τις κτιστές εσοχές στους τοίχους The “Volto”, a particular attribute (τις of θυρίδες). Το βόλτο, χαρακτηριστικό insular architecture, is essential toγνώthe PHOTO: ZEFI POTIRI support of the weight of the roofστην or ρισµα νησιώτικων σπιτιών, βοηθά υποβάσταξη του βάρους του άνω µε τα αναγκαία, the upper chamber. The homes areδώµατος. furnishedΕίναι withεπιπλωµένα the indispensable but also πλην όµως παραδοσιακά, έπιπλα (µπουφέ, κοµό, ντιβάνι, µπαούλο), τα οποία traditional furniture (buffet, chest of drawers, divan and trunk). The furniture καλύπτουν λευκάhand-embroidered χειροποίητα ή στονlinen αργαλειό κεντήµατα,woven ενώ στα παράθυρα is covered with or hand-made sheets made κρέµονται κουρτίνες µε νησιώτικες δαντέλες. on the drawloom, while laced curtains are hanging from the windows. The standard of livingζωής in traditional Tinos high, the proof being a comΤο επίπεδο στην Τήνο είναιhomes υψηλό.was Απόδειξη αποτελεί ότι, αντίθετα plete separation the animals from the family quarters, the µε άλλα µέρη της of Ελλάδας, τα ζώα διαχωρίζονται τελείως not από resembling την οικογένεια traditional livingκατοικία. conditions in και theγύρω rest of rural Greece, at that ειδικοί time. Specific και την τηνιακή ∆ίπλα από τα σπίτια υπάρχουν χώροι areas exist forστάβλοι, the animals beside and around theκαι houses, γι’ αυτά, όπως χοιροστάσια, περιστερώνες άλλα. like stables, hog

pens, dovecotes and more.


PHOTO: ARISTEIDES KONTOGEORGIS ΦΩΤΟ: ΑΡΙΣΤΕΙ∆ΗΣ ΚΟΝΤΟΓΕΩΡΓΗΣ

ΕΚΚΛΗΣΙΕΣ ΚΑΙ ΞΩΚΛΗΣΙΑ 33


TRADITION

THRESHING AND WILLOWING The visitor of Tinos has the chance to see and admire one more creation, made with superb craft and practical sense by the experts of the Tinian rock: the threshing ground. It has a circular shape with a 4-5 m diameter, is paved with floor slabs and is surrounded by short walls made of upright ashlars 50-60 cm high. Around the gap of the threshing ground, there is a stone string course. Outside the threshing ground, the farmer used to accumulate bundles of hay, which shape the cock of hey. In the beginning of July, threshing started. For this purpose, the farmer usually used two cows (sometimes one cow and one mule or donkey), which he put on the thrall, and after that he threw in the threshing ground 8-10 bundles of wheat and started threshing. That meant he paced the threshing ground in circles, while following the cattle and instigated them to run, for the hay to be rubbed and the corn to be separated from it. When he judged that the grain was well stepped on and crossed, he threw in new bundles (throwing), until the cock of hey was finished. While the threshing was done under the hot summer sun, the thresher received cool water, bread and cheese from the family members, who walked along with him on the string course. The willowing followed the threshing, but in order for the farmer to willow, a light breeze had to blow.The test of the strength and direction of the wind was done by throwing some hay in the air.When the farmer saw fit, he started the willowing procedure, usually very early in the morning.With the fan (“muck fork� something like a wooden trident) he threw the hay high in the air and the wind swept it beside and outside the threshing ground, where a huddle of straw was created, which was later going to be carried to the barn, to feed the animals during winter. The harvested wheat and barleycorn, being heavier, fell down to the threshing ground, for their bolt to follow, firstly with the sharpener and then with the sieve for a more refined separation. Afterwards, by means of large square tin buckets, which also consist a capacity unit, they stuffed sacks and that is how the harvest was transferred to the store room, and then to the mill for grinding. PHOTO: ARISTEIDES KONTOGEORGIS

PHOTO: ARISTEIDES KONTOGEORGIS

34


PHOTO: ARISTEIDES KONTOGEORGIS


PHOTO:ΑΡΙΣΤΕΙ∆ΗΣ ARISTEIDES KONTOGEORGIS ΦΩΤΟ: ΚΟΝΤΟΓΕΩΡΓΗΣ

36 36 TR Π Α AΡ D Α I∆TΟI O ΣN Η


hurches a Ιnd ΕΚC ΚΛ ΗΣΙΕΣ ΚΑ Ξ ΩCΚhΛaΗp Σels ΙΑ

Churchesκαι and Chapels Εκκλησίες ξωκλήσια

ΦΩΤΟ: ΑΡΙΣΤΕΙ∆ΗΣ ΚΟΝΤΟΓΕΩΡΓΗΣ

ΦΩΤΟ: ΖΕΦΗ ΠΟΤΗΡΗ

religious centreήταν since ancient times, whenεφόσον the Sanctuary Η Tinos Τήνοςwas απόaτην αρχαιότητα θρησκευτικό κέντρο, το ιερό ofΠοσειδώνα Poseidon and Amphitrite made it the biggest pilgrimage destination του και της Αµφιτρίτης την καθιστούσε πανελλήνιο προσκύνηµα. Η for Greeks. Still, the faithτου andνησιού, the religious of theκαιisland πίστη και θρησκευτικότητα όµως,aspects συνεχίστηκε κατάcontinued τους επόthrough the µέχρι centuries, untilΑυτό the present day. A και proof is theαριθµό great µενους αιώνες σήµερα. αποδεικνύεται απόofτοthis µεγάλο number of churches erected διάσπαρτες all over the σ’ island. των εκκλησιών που βρίσκονται όλο το νησί. Αυτό το γεγονός καθιστά τη συστηµατιThisδύσκολη fact constitutes a difa meκήficulty µελέτηwhen τους,undertaking µε αποτέλεσµα να thodical study over them and µην έχει ακόµη ολοκληρωθεί. Με a result, it has not finished τιςas1000 περίπου Ορθόδοξες και yet. Having around 1000 OrΚαθολικές εκκλησίες, η Τήνος καthodox and Catholic churches, τέχει ξεχωριστή θέση στον κόσµο Tinos has a special place in the της εκκλησιαστικής αρχιτεκτονικής, world of church architecture, όπου η ευαισθησία τηςofΤηνιακής where the sensitivity the Tiψυχής έφτασε στο αποκορύφωµά nian soul reached its peak, usτηςingχρησιµοποιώντας Ανατολικές eastern and western buildκαιing ∆υτικές τεχνικές ένα µοναδιtechniques in µε a unique way. PHOTO: ZEFI POTIRI theΜε help of local materials κόWith τρόπο. ντόπια υλικά και µεράκι, Τηνιακοί the τεχνίτες εκκλησίες, οι οποίες είναι πραγµατικά andοιdevotion, Tinianέκτισαν builders and wrights constructed churches έργα that τέχνης. Επιπλέον, τα καµπαναριά τουςthe σαγηνεύουν τον επισκέπτη προσκυνητή are real masterpieces. Moreover, belfries beguile the visiting pilgrim their magnificence combined with their Every single one is µεwith τη µεγαλοπρέπεια αλλά και την απλότητά τους.simplicity. Όλα, µαρµάρινα και πέτρινα, είναι είτεof ιδιαίτερα διακοσµηµένα made marble and rock, either είτε αφάνταστα λιτά.decorated, or when especially wonderfully Κατά τη austere. Βυζαντινή περίοδο During the Byzantine years, ανεγέρθηκαν πολλοί ενοριακοί many churches were ναοί στα parochial χωριά. Όµως, στο κτίσιµο erected in the villages. The buildτων πολυάριθµων εκκλησιών συνέing of this multitude of churchβαλε και η ειδική συνθήκη µεταξύ es is mainly due to the special των κατοίκων της Τήνου µε τους agreement among the inhabitΤούρκους, µετά την παράδοση του ants of Tinos and the Turks, after νησιού από τους Βενετούς. Έτσι, οι the island rulers, the Venetians, Τηνιακοί ήταν ελεύθεροι, εκτός των delivered it to the Ottoman άλλων, ναThe χτίζουν εκκλησίες Empire. Tinianόσες people were ήθελαν. Σε κάθε χωράφι σχεδόν free to build as many churches PHOTO: ARISTEIDES KONTOGEORGIS as theyκαι wanted. In every propχτίστηκε µια οικογενειακή εκκλησία. η κατοχή ξωκλησιού θεωρείται ευλογία για την οικογένεια erty, aΆλλωστε family church was built. Furthermore, a church possession is considered blessing for the family από that γενιά owns σε it. Itγενιά is transferred from generation που το aέχει. Το µεταβιβάζουν και το φροντίζουν χωρίς to generation, without minding effort and expenses.

37 37


ΦΩΤΟ: ΑΡΙΣΤΕΙ∆ΗΣ PHOTO: ARISTEIDESΚΟΝΤΟΓΕΩΡΓΗΣ KONTOGEORGIS

ΦΩΤΟ: ΚΟΝΤΟΓΕΩΡΓΗΣ PHOTO:ΑΡΙΣΤΕΙ∆ΗΣ ARISTEIDES KONTOGEORGIS

38 38

TR Π Α AΡ D Α I∆TΟI O ΣN Η

να υπολογίζουν καιcelebrates, έξοδα. Όταν γιορτάζει το κάθεor εκκλησάκι, ιδιωτικό When each κόπο church either being private not, all the devoκαι µη,friends όλοι οιand παρευρισκόµενοι, φίλοι καιand ξένοι, κάθονται και απολαµtees, strangers sit together enjoy treats κοντά from the ownerβάνουνorκέρασµα απόvillage. την οικογένεια ή απόTinian όλες treat τις οικογένειες χωριού. family the whole The traditional consists ofτου coffee, raki Το παραδοσιακό τηνιακό κέραand Turkish delight. σµα περιλαµβάνει καφέ, ρακί και (During Christmas they also λουκούµι (αν είναι Χριστούγεννα offer homemade fried honey προσφέρονται και σπιτικά «ξεροdough “diples”, while during τήγανα»-δίπλες, ενώ αν είναι ΠάEaster, sweet cheese pies). Usuσχα τυρόπιτες γλυκές). Συχνά, µαζί ally, alongside with the above µε τα παραπάνω προσφέρονται specialties, they also offer more και παραδοσιακά εδέσµατα, όπως traditional dishes, such as Tinian τυράκι τηνιακό, λούζα, σκορδάcheese, “Louza” (a special pork το (είδος ντόπιου λουκάνικου µε dainty), “Skordato” (a sort of loπολλά µπαχαρικά), αγκινάρες «του cal spicy sausage), artichokes in λαδιού» και άλλα φαγητά συνοoil m.m.; all of the above usually δευόµενα µε ντόπιο κρασί. washed down with wine. Οι εκκλησίες τηςlocal Τήνου χωρίThe churches of Tinos are ζονται σε τρία είδη: τους καθεδριdivided in three types: The parκούς ναούς (ενοριακές εκκλησίες ish thatστα stand out in πουchurches ξεχωρίζουν χωριά καιthe τη villages and “Chora”, the chapels, Χώρα), τα παρεκκλήσια (µικρότερες εκκλησίες που βρίσκονται κοντά στιςand καθέδρες), καιones. τα ξωκλήσια. τελευsmaller churches near the cathedrals, the rural The lastΤα ones, all ταία, όλα κατάλευκα, είναι αµέτρητα και διάσπαρτα στην ύπαιθρο της Τήνου: white, are innumerable and can be found everywhere in the countryside of στις κορυφές των βουνών, σε Tinos: on the mountain peaks, on απόκρηµνα βράχια, σε παραλίες, rocky landscapes, near beaches, µέσα σε κάµπους, πάνω σε µονοin plain fields, beside paths and πάτια και δρόµους, σε λαγκαδιές. roads, in dells, or generally eveΌπου δηλαδή µπορεί να φτάσει η ryplace a Tinian believer can imφαντασία του Τηνίου πιστού, αλλά agine, in the villages, but also in και µέσα στα χωριά και τη Χώρα. “Chora”. Those and Αυτά γεµίζουν τηνchapels Τήνο καιfillστολίenrich countryside. They ζουν την the ύπαιθρό της. Αποτελούν, comprise an integral part of the πλέον, αναπόσπαστο τµήµα της και σήµα κατατεθέν. κάποιο ξωκλήσι γιορτάζει και µικρά landscape and are a Κάθε tradeµέρα, markόλο for και Tinos. Everyday, there is certainly one πανηγυράκια δίνουν ζωή στη φύση και αποτελούν αγνές συγκεντρώσεις των church celebrating somewhere. Small church festivities enliven nature and νησιωτών. constitute genuine assemblies of the islanders. As for the architectural asΑπό άποψη αρχιτεκτονικής οι εκκλησίες της Τήνου είναι µονόκλιτες, δί-

pect, the churches of Tinos are either aisled, two-aisled or three aisled.


PHOTO: ARISTEIDES KONTOGEORGIS


TR Π Α AΡ D Α I∆TΟI O ΣN Η

PHOTO: ARISTEIDES KONTOGEORGIS

κλιτες ή τρίκλιτες. Το κυρίαρχοof χαρακτηριστικό είναι το τους The main characteristic the churchesτους in Tinos is καµπαναριό their bell tower, που δεσπόζειinσεvarious ποικίλαshapes. σχέδια.Many Πολλές φορές, µάλιστα, βρίσκεταιbeside µόνο του, constructed times, it stands individually the χωριστά από την εκκλησία. Οι παλιές εκκλησίες δεν έχουν καθόλου ανοίγµατα, church.The old churches do not have any openings, while the later ones, do. ενώ οι µεταγενέστερες έχουνofλιγοστά. Η µακραίωνη συνύπαρξη Ορθόδοξου The long lived coexistence the Orthodox and Catholic dogmas on the και Καθολικού δόγµατος στο νησί είχε ως αποτέλεσµα επιρροές στην αρχιτεisland, resulted in mutual influences when architectural style is concerned. κτονική πιοcases, σπάνια, ναούς και σταtoδυο δόγµατα, όπως Αγ. In someκαι rare there areαφιερωµένους churches dedicated both dogmas, like ηSaint Αικατερίνη στον Τσικνιά. Γενικά, οι παραδοσιακοί ναοί της Τήνου, και ιδιαίCatherine in “Tsiknias”. Generally, the traditional churches of Tinos, and parτερα της the υπαίθρου, δε διαφέρουν από την the παραδοσιακή τηνιακή κατοικία. Τα ticularly rural ones do not differ from Tinian houses when construcκυρίαρχα δοµικά υλικά είναι τα ίδια που χρησιµοποιούνται και στο χτίσιµο της tion materials are concerned, such as slate clay and whitewashed outside τηνιακής δηλαδή σχιστόλιθος ασβέστης. όπως και walls. Theκατοικίας, ceiling, like in theοhouses, is flat και andοformed by Το oneταβάνι, big monolithic στα σπίτια είναιsmall επίπεδο δηµιουργείται µε wooden µια µεγάληbeams µονολιθική πλάκα ή µε slab or with onesκαιthat rest against (or “Traves”, as µικρότερες που στηρίζονται σε ξύλινες (τράβες). Σε µερικές εκκλησίες they are locally called). In some churchδοκούς façades, we come across triangular στην όψη τουςThese συναντούµε τριγωνικά στοιχείο πουtradition, δε συµφωνεί µε frontispieces. elements do not αετώµατα, concur with the local but are ου ού recent (of παράδοση, the 19th andαλλά 20thείναι centuries). την ντόπια µεταγενέστερο, των 19 και 20 αιώνων.

ΦΩΤΟ: ΑΡΙΣΤΕΙ∆ΗΣ ΚΟΝΤΟΓΕΩΡΓΗΣ

40 40


PHOTO: ARISTEIDES KONTOGEORGIS


TR Π Α AΡ D Α I∆TΟI O ΣN Η

Dove-cotes Περιστεριώνες

PHOTO: ZEFI POTIRI

ΦΩΤΟ: ΑΡΙΣΤΕΙ∆ΗΣ ΚΟΝΤΟΓΕΩΡΓΗΣ PHOTO: ARISTEIDES KONTOGEORGIS

The dovecotes are the pigeons’στην houses. The love for doves always exΟι περιστερώνες-περιστεριώνες ντόπια τηνιακή διάλεκτοαποτελούν isted since ancient times and throughout Christianity, when the dove symτα σπίτια των περιστεριών. Ανέκαθεν υπήρχε αγάπη για τα περιστέρια. Από τα bolized the Holy The Greeksµεhave connected with peace, love αρχαία χρόνια ως Spirit. το Χριστιανισµό το Άγιο Πνεύµα.them Ο ελληνικός λαός τα and tenderness. and την songs have τη been writtenγι’inαυτό theirάλλωστε honor but we έχει συνδέσει µε Poems την ειρήνη, αγάπη, θαλπωρή, έχουν also come across them, in traditional engravings, or paintings. γραφτεί ποιήµατα, τραγούδια προς τιµήν τους, αλλάembroidery τα συναντούµε και σε παDove-cotes exist κεντήµατα in other Cycladic islands too, but the most arresting ραδοσιακά ανάγλυφα, ή ζωγραφιές. Περιστεριώνες υπάρare to be found in Tinos. χουν και άλλα closely κυκλαThey haveσε been δίτικα νησιά, αλλά οι πιο connected with the island εντυπωσιακοί βρίσκονται and they can be considστην Τήνο. Έχουν συνδεered as its trademark. The θεί στενά µε το νησί και local builder knows that, in αποτελούν το σήµα καorder to attract doves, the τατεθέν του. Ο ντόπιος appropriate location must αρχιτέκτονας γνωρίζει ότι be That is why they για found. να προσελκύει τα περιare built in rural sites, στέρια, πρέπει να βρεθεί inη specifically places, κατάλληλη chosen τοποθεσία. Γι’ near fields στην and αυτό, cultivated είναι κτισµένοι ενδοχώρα σε ειδικά επιλεγµένες περιοχές, κοντά but σε καλλιεργήσιµες εκτάσεις water sources, in mountain banks and gulches never on a mountain. και πηγές νερού, σε πλαγιές βουνών και σε ρεµατιές, ποτέ δηλαδή σε βουνό. This helps the flying of the birds, but also it helps them find their way back. Αυτό βοηθά στο πέταγµα των πτηνών, αλλά και στο να βρουν το δρόµο της The existence of water nearνερού the structure is necessary their survival. επιστροφής τους. Η ύπαρξη κοντά στο κτίσµα είναιforαπαραίτητη, αφού Alongside the functional cause of their existence, the dovecotes are καλύπτει τις ανάγκες τους. signs Εκτός of gracefulness and από το λειτουργικό λόγο ύπαρξής τους,a aristocracy. Possessing οι περιστεριώνες είναι και dove-cote was considered δείγµα ευγενείας και αριan honor for the owners, στοκρατίας. Έτσι, ήταν since it gave higher προνόµιο γιαthem τους aιδιοκτήsocial status. τες τους, αφούDove-cotes τους προσέδιδαν αίγλη. Αποτελούν are considered as ornaκοσµήµατα του Τηνιακού ments of the Tinian landτοπίου και αξιοσηµείωτο scape and the remarkable είναι ότι καθένας είναι διaspect is how one is differαφορετικός από τον άλλο. ent from the other. ΦΩΤΟ: ΖΕΦΗ ΠΟΤΗΡΗ

42 42


PHOTO: ARISTEIDES KONTOGEORGIS


44

TRADITION

PHOTO: ARISTEIDES KONTOGEORGIS

They are fair-sized, with rock built walls. The ground floors are used as warehouses for agricultural products and tools and the upper parts for the doves. Like the rest of the buildings in Tinos, local materials are used (Slate clay and other rocks, whitewash) for the construction of a dovecote. The building has only one small wooden door that is used for the entrance of the owner, but also for the protection of the doves from predators, such as snakes and mice. The dove-cote builders used slate clay, to create rare decorations on


D ovecotes

one or more surfaces of the structure (rhombs, triangles, suns, cypresses and more). These decorative elements create one inconceivably harmonious image and have been called “architectural embroidery�. Every singular one, or all combined together, make a set of rare monuments and can be seen as an expression of a popular art form that is unique in the whole world. It seems like a deep emotional need is seeking to emerge in the form of creative architecture.

45


ΦΩΤΟ: ΓΙΑΝΝΗΣ ΒΙ∆ΑΛΗΣ

PHOTO: IOANNIS VIDALIS

46 46

TR Π Α AΡ D Α I∆TΟI O ΣN Η

Although were present on the islands for many centuries, it seems υπάρχει τέτοιοdoves αποτέλεσµα. που ταintroduced περιστέριαtheir υπήρχαν σταbreeding. νησιά για πολλούς αιώνες, φαίthat Παρόλο the Venetians regular While during the Veneνεται ότι οι Βενετοί εισήγαγαν τη συστηµατική εκτροφή τους. Ενώ επί Ενετοtian domination the dovecotes were a privilege of the Venetian conquerors κρατίας οι περιστεριώνες ήταν δικαίωµα των Βενετών κατακτητών (“droit de (“droit de colombiers”), the locals formed them according to the folk tradicolombiers”), οι ντόπιοι τους διαµόρφωσαν σύµφωνα µε τα λαϊκή παράδοση tion and έκαναν made them own. majority ofπεριστεριώνες dovecotes were during και τους δικούςtheir τους. ΟιThe περισσότεροι του built νησιού κτίο the 18thκατά and το 19th στηκαν 18centuries. και 19ο αιώνα. Dove-breeding so Τόσο µεγάλη ήτανwas η εκτροφή περιστεριών, ώστε οι Τηνιextensive then, that the Tinακοί τα εξήγαγαν σε them όλη την ian people exported to Ελλάδα, τη Σµύρνη, την Κωνall parts of Greece, reaching σταντινούπολη και αλλού. Το even so far as Smyrna, Istanbul κρέας τους πουλιόταν ακριβά, and elsewhere. Their delicious ακόµαwas και highly σε γυάλες µε ξύδι, meat appreciated, αφού αποτελούσε και αποτελεί especially when conserved in αριστοκρατική καιsince πολύit θρεjars with vinegar, was πτική τροφή. Ακόµα και σήµεand still is considered as a very ρα, οι ντόπιοι µαγειρεύουν και high class and nutritious food. σερβίρουν περιστέρια. ΩστόEven today, the locals cook and σο, τα εκτρέφουν όχι µόνο για serve doves. However they το νόστιµο κρέας αλλά και για breed them not only for their τα περιττώµατά τους, τα οποία delicious meat but also for their αποτελούν πρώτης ποιότητας excrements, which are considφυσικό λίπασµα. ered Ο to ακριβής be a natural fertilizer αριθµός των ofπεριστεριώνων the finest quality. The exact δεν είναι γνωnumber of σίγουρα dove-cotes is not στός, αλλά ξεπερνάει known, but it certainly exceeds τους 1000. Οι περισσότεροι 1000. of them built in από Most αυτούς είναι are κτισµένοι the and και eastern areas στιςcentral κεντρικές ανατολικές ofπεριοχές the island, in the valτουmostly νησιού, κυρίως ley the village but also around “Tripotamos”. στηνofκοιλάδα του“Tarabados”, χωριού Ταραµπάδος, αλλά και γύρω από τον Τριπόταµο. Σήµερα γίνονται προσπάθειες να συντηρηθούν περιστεριώνες της ΤήPresently, effort is made for the dove-cotes ofοιTinos to be preserved. νου. Με εθελοντική εργασία και σύλλογος «Φίλοι του Πρασίνου» With voluntary contributions andµελέτες surveys,ο the Association “Friends of Greenέχει στηρίξει και συνεχίζει να στηρίζει αυτό το δύσκολο έργο. Μέχρι τώρα ery” has supported and continues supporting this initiative. Until now over έχουν αναπαλαιωθεί πάνω από 140 περιστεριώνες, ενώ στόχος του δραστήρι140 dovecotes have been restored, while the1007. target of this activity of the Asου αυτού συλλόγου είναι να αναστηλωθούν sociation is to reconstruct 1007.


PHOTO: ARISTEIDES KONTOGEORGIS

D ovecotes 47


TRADITION

Windmills Tinos can be the ideal place for mills to function, while the strong winds that dominate the island are a serious advantage. After scientific survey, it was ascertained that here existed more windmills than on the other islands of the Cyclades. From the period even before Christianity, more than 80 windmills were operating, which milled the wheat not only of Tinos but also of the neighboring islands. During the Venetian domination, the windmills increased, while the wheat was being cultivated systematically for the needs of the population that had been tripled. They are built from local stones, on hills’ peaks and at passages, so that the

PHOTO: ARISTEIDES KONTOGEORGIS

48


W indmills

wheat could be easily transported from the nearby villages to the mill. The building is divided in three sections; at the last one and highest, the milling was done.We can encounter them in clusters or individually all over the island. On the hill overlooking the village “Ysternia�, many windmills are grouped together, due to the fact that there has been a developed flour export industry in the past, the merchandise being exported through the little harbor of the village. However, there are many windmills all over the island, for domestic use. The milling went on also during the Greek war of independence for the alimentation of the Greek fleet, and afterwards, during peaceful times. The windmill operation coincided with prosperous times, when milling meant that everything was going well for the country and its economy.

49


TR Π Α AΡ D Α I∆TΟI O ΣN Η

PHOTO: ARISTEIDES KONTOGEORGIS

έβαιναν ευνοϊκά τον τόπο και War, την οικονοµία του. During the για Second World the millers of the island, risking their Κατά τη διάρκεια του ∆ευτέρου Παγκοσµίου Πολέµου, οι µυλωνάδες του own lives, offered important services to the population suffering from hunνησιού µε κίνδυνο της ζωής τους προσέφεραν σηµαντικές υπηρεσίες στον πληger, by milling flour secretly night,αλέθοντας to satisfy local needs. Theirαλεύρι, courseγια conθυσµό που υπέφερε από τηνatπείνα, κρυφά τη νύχτα να ικανοποιήσουν πορεία συνεχίστηκε µέχρι the και tinued until the τις 70’ανάγκες s, when των mostντόπιων. of themΗwere shutτους down. Until recently, τη δεκαετία οπότε έκλεισαν οι περισσότεροι. Μέχρι πρόσφατα that λειlast mill wasτου still ’70, functioning in the valley of Kambos, but unfortunately, τουργούσε ο τελευταίος εν ζωή µύλος στον Κάµπο, αλλά δυστυχώς έπαψε κι one was shut down as well. αυτός να λειτουργεί.

ΦΩΤΟ: ΑΡΙΣΤΕΙ∆ΗΣ ΚΟΝΤΟΓΕΩΡΓΗΣ

50 50


PHOTO: ARISTEIDES KONTOGEORGIS

W indmills

The small number of mills that have survived until today, are considered as examples of art and the local craftsmen’s ability. Being now remnants of passed centuries, the windmills justify the connection of the island with Aeolus, the god of the wind. The Tinian windmills have ten wooden rays, on which the masts are tied, rotating according to wind strength and direction. For their construction only local materials are used, except for the millstone, which was imported from Milos island. The miller’s profession was hereditary.The millers are considered as the best amateur weather-forecasters. Like the sailors, they knew the winds on the island, and that is how, after enough consideration, they chose where to build their windmill. Furthermore, so as to ensure that everything was progressing well, they preyed to the Saints, like Saint Nicholas patron of sailors, Saint George and Saint Minas, hanging their icons in the mill, high under the wooden beams.

Watermills The watermills were invented the 1st century BC and it is unknown when they first operated in Tinos. They are connected to the old appellation of Tinos “Hydroussa”, revealing the presence of water and sources on the island. The locals, took advantage of this and used watermills together with the windmills for grinding wheat. Like the windmills, they can also be seen individually or in clusters all over the island, in places where the water abounds, like “Livada”, “Marouli” and “Perastra”. In Tinos until recently, the watermills were systematically operating. Unfortunately though, just like it happened with the windmills, they surrendered to disuse and fell into oblivion, due to the evolution of technology.

51


TRADITION

The art of marble and stone carving

PHOTO: IOANNIS VIDALIS

Masterpieces of marble Art may be found everywhere in Tinos. They are at the roads and the alleys of the island, near churches and houses and generally wherever you look. The Tinian marble has been carved with love and imagination by efficient sculptors and technicians, and the marble adornments and engravings decorate all the sites, where this stone has been used. That way, the technician is always justified for his choice. The well-known and unique Tinos marble, white or green, has been used and continues to be one of the first choices for the lining of monuments and architectural projects. Thus, it isn’t surprising that it was used at the Buckingham Palace and the Louvre. PHOTO: IOANNIS VIDALIS

52

Tinian craftsmanship, as a consequence of dedication and love, succeeded in making artistic masterpieces using this local material. Tinos, in addition to the works of Art which have been commissioned by other Greek and foreign cities, is also being called an “outdoor museum of traditional marble sculpture”. The most illustrious examples of local art are the churches, the cemeteries (mainly the graveyards of the villages “Pyrgos” and “Platia”), the Strongholds/Castles, the marble fountains, the rural community “laundry-houses” in the villages, and finally the semi-circular lintels over the doors and windows that decorate the houses and churches. It has to be mentioned that around 1845, marble sculpture and architecture are the main pre-industrial features, on the island of Tinos and they occupied more than a thousand people among sculptors, stone- masons and technicians.


Art on the m a rble a nd stone

Marble Art- Marble Sculpture

PHOTO: ZEFI POTIRI

According to tradition, the most outstanding sculptor of antiquity, Phidias, came to Tinos and taught his ar t and its secrets. That is also indicated by the large amount of archeological findings. The local marble was also used for the construction of Poseidon’s and Amphitrite’s temple in “Kionia”, and the Tinian ar tists par ticipated in the construction of the Sanctuaries in “Delos” island. Fur thermore, the quarries of the noted green marble in Tinos operated since ancient times, mostly during the Roman and the Early Christian eras. The biggest development of the marble Ar t, took place after the Greek revolution, in 1830, when Tinos evolved so much as to become the largest centre of marble carving in Greece, but also one of the biggest for the whole world. The Tinian marble sculptors made their island famous worldwide by winning a high reputation. Tinos itself, with its high ar tistic status and natural beauty, inspired and still inspires every ar tist. The sinuous coasts, the nature-carved rocks, the peaceful banks but also the wild life surrendered to the maddening winds that carve any kind of rock into great shapes. Even the trees growing in the area, are a source of inspiration and they invigorate every visitor of the island. It is not strange that all kinds of ar tists come to the island to be inspired and creative. Some of them even settle here, founding their workshops. The following factors have contributed to the development and progress of the Ar t of marble and stone carving: The social and financial conditions prevailing during long periods of time, The Venetian domination and Catholic Faith, that bolstered the marble sculpture and favoured the ar tworks in general

53


54

TRADITION

• The Tinian land, rich in precious stone, noted for its white and green marble (specifically on the north-western part of the island, where the quarries are located) • The cohabitation with artists and sculptors that inspired the rest of the Tinian people and encouraged their inborn talent • The scholarships issued by the Greek Holy Institution of the Annunciation of Tinos, that financed the studies of many artists abroad (among them, Ghizis and Lytras), • Finally, the School of Fine Arts, that operated in the village of “Pyrgos”. All the abovementioned conditions induced the locals to occupy themselves with marble and its artistry, supporting them along the way. It is not accidental that the marble-crafting profession was connected to that of the marble sculptor and artist. Indeed, according to evidence, the first organised marble workshop started operating in the village of “Pyrgos” during the 17th century. From then on, many workshops were created and the competition that was developed among them favoured their progress, while they reached the peak of their performance during the 19th century. The travels of local artists to other parts of Greece and abroad helped them in the creation of original and varied patterns of work. Artistic creation was extended to include many related kinds of activity and construction. Thus, today we come across masterpieces all over Tinos: in churches and their chancel screens, on house lintels or marble “coats of arms”, the marble fountains, the gravestones and grave monuments, that are everywhere and anywhere the local artist’s inspiration could take him. The renowned Tinian sculptors, such as Giannoulis Halepas, Dimitris Fillipotis and many others, were well travelled and had dealt with many projects like the royal palace, the University, the Academy, the Polytechnic, the Archaeological Museum, the National Library, the Zappeio Mansion and elsewhere. Although marble sculpture and the relative workshops underwent a crisis in the middle of the last century, the return to the traditional values even for touristic purposes or for construction of residences based on the traditional Tinian houses, have supported the continuation of the marble sculpture tradition. These workshops exist mainly in the villages of “Pyrgos” and “Ysternia”, where the marble is produced. The various museums of the island display some works of Tinian artists. Some more artistic creations can also be encountered around the villages, in case the visitor wants to discover the artworks of marble and other rocks, since they are everywhere to be found.


Art on the m a rble a nd stone

Marble lintels (or transoms)

PHOTO: IOANNIS VIDALIS

The marble lintels (or transoms, according to another appellation) can be found all over the island. They comprise authentic creations of traditional builders and they are now directly connected with the Tinian traditional house. They are carved in marble, shaped as rectangles or semi-circles, always perforated. They follow various designs, offering better illumination and ventilation to the Tinian home. They are considered an improvement of the “alleviative triangleâ€? of the Mycenaean period. Many of those lintels have maintained their original use in the village houses and the city of Tinos, until today. They are positioned over the exterior doors or even windows of the house, in order to lead the light into the darker rooms (traditional houses have a few and small openings). Those artworks, use decorative patterns, such as birds, ships, flowers, fish and trees, usually of Venetian or Byzantine inspiration, being clear examples of the unique verve in Tinos. They have an important aesthetic value, they are the house adornment and they have a great significance in the world of Arts. Besides the practical reasons for their existence, the transoms are a decorative element of the house façade. They even carried blazons or emblems of eminent families, but also protected the family with the inscriptions on them, with some of them averting evil. Furthermore, according to popular belief, the main entrance of the house has to be defended from perils and enemies. In some houses in Tinos we do not come across lintels at all. The main reason for their lack is financial difficulties of the owner, who could not afford something that added prestige to the household.

55


TRADITION

CULTURAL ASSOCIATIONS The love of the Tinian people for their motherland has been unique, a fact that can be proven by the approximately 50 cultural associations existing today. There is no village or district in Tinos that does not have its cultural association. The beginning was made in 1876, when the “Fraternity of Tinians Living in Athens” was established at Alexandras and Asimaki Fotila Street. Abandoning rural Greece for a better life in the cities, resulted in depopulation of the countryside during the 50’s. This tendency brought many Tinian people to the capital city. Still, their love and longing for their village, their church, their school, their ancestral houses, induced them to create separate associations for every village. The first associations started appearing in the middle of the 40’s, like the ones of the villages “Karia” and “Kardiani”.

PHOTO: IOANNIS VIDALIS

56


A ΕL ΣA SΕ SΚO T IΣOΕNΙ Σ S Π Ο ΛC ΙUΤLΙTΣUΤ RΙ Κ ∆ CΗIΛA Ω

Το που αναπτύσσουν είναιare πραγµατικά ξεχωριστό, σ’ αυτούς Theέργο causes they have endorsed really varied and, to aκαι great extent, οφείλεται σε µεγάλο βαθµό η διατήρηση των εθίµων και των παραδόσεων του a lot of the initiatives for the preservation of customs are owed to them. νησιού, καθώς επίσης ως ένα βαθµό και η προστασία της αρχιτεκτονικής των They also care about protecting the village architecture from external influχωριών από πολεοδοµικές υπερβάσεις. ences, when urban planning is concerned. Πέρα από την προσφορά τους σε έργα κοινής ωφελείας αξίζει να σηµειIn addition to dealing with projects of common interest, their important ωθεί η σηµαντική συµβολή τους στη διατήρηση περιστεριώνων, µονοπατιών, contribution to the preservation of dove-cotes, paths, raki-brewing shops, ρακιζιών, µύλων, αλωνιών, καθώς και της ξερολιθιάς. windmills, threshingείναι, grounds andηdry-stone walls, worth mentioning. Αξιοσηµείωτη ακόµα, παρουσίαση απόis αυτούς πολιτιστικών εκWorthyµεofοµιλητές remark καταξιωµένους is also the arrangement of cultural inviting δηλώσεων επιστήµονες πάνω σεevents, θέµαταbyπαιδείας, well-known scholars to πολιτισµού give speeches educational,του religious θρησκείας, παράδοσης, κ.ά. on Ο επισκέπτης νησιούand έχειcultural την ευκαιρία, ιδίως τους καλοκαιρινούς µήνες, να επιλέξει µέσα από τις πολλές matters. The island visitor has the chance, mainly during the summer,αξιto όλογες εκδηλώσεις αυτή που τον ενδιαφέρει και, παράλληλα, στο τέλος της choose between a number of significant events to attend and, at the end of εκδήλωσης να απολαύσει τηνιακά γλυκά και ρακί. the event, enjoy Tinian hospitality.

TINIAN PRESS ΤΗΝΙΑΚΟΣ ΤΥΠΟΣ

In 1877 first newspaper of εφηµερίδα the island του appeared name Το 1877the κυκλοφόρησε η πρώτη νησιούunder µε την the ονοµασία “Tinos” with Mr. Nik. Aggelidis as editor, while the “Voice of Tinos” followed, «ΤΗΝΟΣ» και διευθυντή τον Νικ. Αγγελίδη, ενώ ακολούθησε η «ΦΩΝΗ ΤΗΣ in 1881. During those 130 years, 60 έχουν newspapers published, ΤΗΝΟΥ» το 1881. Σ’ αυτά τα 130over χρόνια εκδοθείhave πάνωbeen από 60 εφηµερίδες, άλλεςaµεlasting µακρόχρονη και άλλες βραχύχρονη παρουσία. συµβολή some with and others with aµεtransitory presence. TheirΗcontribuτους στην ανάδειξη και προβολή της πολιτιστικής κληρονοµιάς του νησιού είναι tion in promoting the cultural inheritance of the island is very important, σηµαντική, ακόµα το συνδετικό κρίκο-wherever των απανταχού while they ενώ still are theαποτελούν link between Tinian people they ευρισκοare- and µένων Τηνίων µε τη γενέτειρά τους. ∆εν είναι, άλλωστε, λίγες οι φορές που their birthplace. Furthermore, the Tinian Press blocked the progress of some ο Τηνιακός τύπος στάθηκε εµπόδιο στην αλλοτρίωση του περιβάλλοντος συinitiatives that would cause a negative environmental impact, not hesitating γκρουόµενος µε συµφέροντα. Σήµερα κυκλοφορούν οι παρακάτω εφηµερίδες to act against powerful interests. Until recently, the following newspapers και περιοδικά: and «Κυκλαδικόν magazines were circulating: Φως» (1950) “«Ο The Cycladic Light”(1950) Φάρος της Τήνου» (1959) “ Tinos Pharos”(1959) «Υστερνιώτικα» (1983) «Τηνιακά Σύµµεικτα» “ Isterniotika”( News(1993) from Isternia)(1983) «Φωνή της Καρυάς» (1998) “ Tinian Interests”(1993) «Τα της of Καρδιανής» (1999) “ TheΝέα Voice Karya” (1998) «Μαντάτα» (2000) “ Kardiani News” (1999) «Τηνιακή Ενδοχώρα» (περιοδικό-2002) “ Mandata”( recent news in slang)(2000) «∆ηµότης Τήνου» (ενηµερωτικό δελτίο ∆ήµου Τήνου) “ Tinian Hinterland” (magazine-2002) «Εν ∆ράσει» (ενηµερωτικό δελτίο ∆ήµου Εξωµβούργου) “ Tinos Citizen” (news-letter of Tinos borough) “ In action” (news-letter of Exoburgo borough)

57 57


PHOTO: IOANNIS VIDALIS


The city(χώρα) (“chora”) Η πόλη τα χωριά και οι οικισµοί της Τήνου

www.tinos360.gr www.tinos360.gr


60

T he city ( “ C hor a ” ) a nd the vill a ges o f T inos

THE CITY (“CHORA”)

PHOTO: IOANNIS VIDALIS

The history of the harbor-city (Chora), the Capital of Tinos, begins in antiquity. Its present form came about during the period between the years 1715 and 1745. As mentioned in the historical references of the previous pages, peace, prosperity and mainly the ending of pirate incursions made it possible to establish a city at the port. During the 6th century BC the ancient “City” was founded near the place where the Cathedral of Virgin Mary is standing now, precisely on the location named “Poles” today. The inhabitants were divided into 12 clans/tribes.


T he city

The Capital stayed on the same location until the Byzantine years, when, due to invasions, its inhabitants sought the assurance of the rock of Xomburgo, once more. The most important remains of the Ancient City glory are the walls that spread over the temple of Virgin Mary, (In fact, a Hellenistic tower has been excavated, but unfortunately it still remains under the belt highway, surrounding the city), the aqueduct of Peisistratus, which has been providing water until recently, and the Sanctuary of Poseidon and Amphitrite in “Kionia�.

61


T he city ( “ C hor a ” ) a nd the vill a ges o f T inos

From ancient descriptions, we learn about the existence of important features: the sanctuary of Dionysus and the theatre, where the famous Games “The Donysians”, were held, the “prytaneum”, the ancient “agora” and the “gymnasium”. Unfortunately, all these and many more are still lying under the new City. From the book by the ancient philosopher Aristotle called “Tinian Republic” (which, unfortunately, hasn’t been rescued), we can deduct that the ancient city was organized and well known. The establishment of today’s City coincides with the abandonment of the Castle. “The city of S. Nicholas”, as the capital was named, due to the homonymous church at the port, took its final form after the immigration of people from Crete, Eubia and elsewhere. The inhabitants of “Chora” got into commerce, restraining the farmers to the villages of the hinterland. Under a Τhe memorial of Tinian killed during the Balkan wars, which dominates on a rock on the left of Chora (city). limited period of time, Tinos was one of the best mercantile islands. Among the items Tinos exported were wine, leather, silk, figs and many more local products. The Tinian merchant vessels reached the West, Asia Minor, and the Black Sea. Until the revolution of 1821 Tinos had over 30 large business establishments. After the slaughtering of the people in Chios, Kydonies (1822) and in Psara (1824), the number of the city’s habitants increased considerably, as crowds of refugees reached the island. The inhabitants of the City (Chora) continued to deal with commercial activities, although in a smaller range. PHOTO: ZEFI POTIRI

62


During a short period of time Tinos, along with nearby Syros, was distinguished in the import and export trade, though soon, Tinos leaves the precedence to Siros. The migration of many residents of the City to other countries contributed to this. This emigration left an open space that was soon covered by inhabitants of the island’s villages. The finding of the Annunciation Icon in 1823 was the most important incident for the island (mainly for the City), its name and its economy. It has attracted, and continues to attract believers and visitors from all over Greece and abroad. Thereby the economy of the island, apart from shipping and commerce of agricultural products, depends on commercial activity (especially in the Capital) that has to do with the influence the image has over its audience. The waterfront harms the beauty of the Capital but, behind the façade, the old City of Tinos is patiently waiting and invites every visitor to walk and explore it. Besides the church of Virgin Mary, which stands out at the highest point of the City and the museums around it, the tourist should consider visiting the archaeological museum at The Virgin Mary Avenue and the important Library of Virgin Mary with thousands of books, just behind the museum. Furthermore, a walk in the «old road» which leads to the church, offers pleasure, with the innumerable little shops and all kinds of souvenirs and the old «Kato Vrissi» (a marble fountain, dating as back as the City itself).

PHOTO: ZEFI POTIRI

T he city

63


T he city ( “ C hor a ” ) a nd the vill a ges o f T inos

Something else that is enticing is the exploration of the City’s traditional alleys. In fact, every visitor is advised to walk through the alleys around the churches of “Malamatenia”, Saint Nicholas the Catholic, and The Three Hierarchs, but also the old neighborhoods of Pallada and Saint Eleftherios. Enjoy the picturesque paths with the white houses and the spruce gardens with flowers in bloom and the eye-catching jasmine bushes, arresting time and reminding us of old times. The Church of the Angels (Taxiarchs) near the port is also very interesting, because it hosted temporarily the image of the Annunciation, after its finding and until its transfer to the Temple of Virgin Mary. The alley where music bars are located today has been a commercial center, where the monopoly of fuel and salt had been going on sometime in the past. The monument of “Elli”, which has been erected at the port recently, was designed and constructed by the local sculptor N. Paraskevas. Its stature is defying any weather conditions, by giving a new dimension to the sinking of the historical cruiser. Another interesting destination is the weaving-workshop in “Chora” which is found on the old PHOTO: IOANNIS VIDALIS

64


PHOTO: ZEFI POTIRI

T he city

road with the shops. There, you can admire the traditional handmade embroidery, but also observe Tinian women working on the weaving-loom. A City of Tinos visit can not exclude the imposing building of the Tinian Culture Institution, at the far end of the port. A little further, at the eastern side of the port there is the “Pasakrotiri�cape, an imposing rock, with a unique view of both the sea and the rest of the island. By standing up there, you can have a complete view of the City. The monument in honor of the warriors lost in the Balkan Wars, is built on this cape. For curious visitors, and especially for those who are History and Archeology amateurs, a stroll near the ancient town walls, which spread behind the Temple of Virgin Mary, is a special destination, amidst the natural scenery. Finding accommodation and entertainment in the town of Tinos is an easy matter. There are many hotels and rooms to let, of any class, in every neighborhood. The public services (Police, Hospital, Citizen Service Center, Cultural Center) accommodate the public. There are also innumerable taverns, traditional restaurants, but also restaurants for more demanding tastes, everywhere. Apart from those, there are plenty of cafeterias, bars, confectioneries and traditional coffee-houses.

65


PHOTO: IOANNIS VIDALIS

T he city ( “ C hor a ” ) a nd the vill a ges o f T inos

The Cultural Institution of Tinos It was founded in 2002 and it is housed in a historical neo-classical building among the island’s most important (beginning of the 20th century), which has also functioned as a hotel and a Hospital (called “Polymereio”, after its donator). It was bought in 1977 and was recently renovated with funds provided by the Greek Holly Institution of the Annunciation that maintains and operates it, making it an adornment of the City. The Institution’s mission is to study and promote Tinos history, culture and tradition. It incorporates modern conference and exhibition rooms, but also a library with books concerning Tinos and the Cyclades in general. Several exhibitions and cultural events take place there. There is also a permanent exhibition of the work of the great sculptor of Tinos, Giannoulis Halepas. PHOTO: IOANNIS VIDALIS

66


T he city

The tourist market of Tinos

PHOTO: ZEFI POTIRI

An errantry in the town of Tinos is incomplete without strolling through the old street, leading from the port to the temple of Virgin Mary. Here, time has stopped a long time ago and the scenery reminds us of the markets of Constantinople and Cairo.The numerous shops, smaller or bigger, have their merchandise outstretched on the tiled pavement in front. They are filled with the voices of the colorful crowd and the passers by, who are drawn to it and can hardly “step out of this fairytale�. Here you can find any kind of Tinian souvenir. Small and big icons, local embroidery, jewelry and strings of beads, traditional confectionery and whatever one wishes is in front of the eyes of the passer-by who, in many cases, is invited by the shopkeeper to stay and see them. As we are approaching the temple of Virgin Mary, outdoor wooden kiosks sell mostly wax candles in every size, oblations, dedications and small bottles for the holy water to be stored in, while smells of burning incense fill the air. There are souvenirs for every taste and wallet.

67


T he city ( “ C hor a ” ) a nd the vill a ges o f T inos

The holy ceremony of the burial of Christ (sepulchral tradition) The interest of the crowds of believers is drawn by the circumambulation of the sepulchral on Good Friday in the Town of Tinos.After the evening Mass, the five parish churches’ sepulchral processions, each one parading slowly, meet at “Pantanassa” square, by the waterfront. Each flowerdecorated sepulchral, is being escorted by its parishioners. The sepulchral of the Virgin Mary church is left unadorned, because it differs and has only wood-carved details. Emerging from different roads, they ascend on the marble platform. After they chant the “eulogy”, each single procession, accompanied by the parishioners, goes back to the church it belongs. There is an exception, though: the sepulchral procession of Saint Nicholas, wanders to the nearby coast of “Kalamia”.There, along with the priest, they get into the water and make an invocation for the well-being of seamen. This tradition is recent, dating back to the 80’s.

PHOTO: IOANNIS VIDALIS

68


T he city

The Taxiarchs’ church

PHOTO: IOANNIS VIDALIS

The metropolitan church of the Taxiarchs (Angels) is in “Pallada”. The first small church was Catholic. In 1715, during the Turkish dominance on Tinos, after an agreement between the Catholic and the Orthodox dogmas, an exchange was made between this church and Saint Nicholas’s which until then was an Orthodox church. Thus, the Taxiarchs became Orthodox and Saint Nicholas, Catholic. This church was renovated in 1759, as shown on the engraved inscription over the entrance of the church. The renovation was carried out by “Meletius” the archbishop of Tinos, with the contribution of the Orthodox people of Tinos. The church is considered a museum of Post- Byzantine Art, mostly due to the wooden gilded chancel - screen and its icons. According to common belief, the chancel- screen was constructed in Constantinople in the 18th century, following both Byzantine and baroque tradition. It is considered as one of the most beautiful chancel screens (8 meters long), because it is embellished with perforations, making it look like fine lace, giving a flimsy effect between the surrounding icons. This adds gracility and delicacy to the entire work of art. The various elements portrayed are framed by plants and flowers, eagles and doves, lions and other animals, weaving an intricate pattern. All the above, as well as the fact that the church lodged the image of the Annunciation during the period when the Church of the Virgin Mary was under construction, makes this church special and attracts many visitors.

69


ΦΩΤΟ: ΖΕΦΗ ΠΟΤΗΡΗ

PHOTO: ZEFI POTIRI

70

Η ΠΟΛΗ (ΧΩΡΑ), ΤΑ ΧΩΡΙΑ ΚΑΙ ΟΙ ΟΙΚΙΣΜΟΙ ΤΗΣ ΤΗΝΟΥ


L L∆AΟGΣE Η S Π ΑVΡI Α

ΤΑ ΧΩΡΙΑ ΤΗΣ ΤΗΝΟΥ VILLAGES OF TINOS

ΦΩΤΟ: ΖΕΦΗ ΠΟΤΗΡΗ

Με το η Τήνος σε δύο δήµους, Τήνου και After theνόµο recentΚαποδίστρια, law about regional andδιαιρέθηκε local administration, Tinos Municipality Εξωµβούργου, και την Κοινότητα Πανόρµου. Στοwas ∆ήµο Τήνου περιλαµβάνονται comprises the entire territory of the island, that previously divided into two η Χώρα και χωριά,the στοother ∆ήµο περισσότερα της boroughs, theκάποια one of Tinos, of Εξωµβούργου Xomburgo andτα(separately) theχωριά historical ενδοχώραςofκαι στην Κοινότητα Πανόρµου ο Πύργος και τα γύρω χωριά. Τα community “Panormos”. χωριά τουthat ∆ήµου Τήνου, Πανόρµου, και το µεγαλύτερο Note Tinos City της withΚοινότητας the villages around it,καθώς plus the inhabitants of µέρος της είναιwhereas ορθόδοξα, ενώ ο ∆ήµος Εξωµβούργου “Pyrgos” areΧώρας Orthodox, villages around Xomburgo are both περιλαµβάνει Catholic and χωριά καθολικά, άλλα µεικτά, δηλαδή µε κατοίκους και των δυο Orthodox, with theορθόδοξα inhabitantsκαι coexisting peacefully, under several centuries. δογµάτων, οι οποίοι για αιώνες συνυπάρχουν ειρηνικά. Triandaros ΧΩΡΙΑ ∆ΗΜΟΥ ΤΗΝΟΥ It is a big lively village with the traditional elements preserved, but also with many new houses where foreign people reside. It has a great view, many arches, narrow alleys andΤριαντάρος steps, while the church of the Disciples of Πρόκειται για ένα aspect µεγάλοin «ζωντανό» διατηρηµένα τα παραδοσιChrist is a dominant the heartχωριό of theµεvillage. The reconstructed ακά στοιχεία αλλά και πολλά καινούρια σπίτια που κατοικούν ξένοι. olive oil press and the water source at “Lefkes” (due to the Έχει treesωραία that θέα, πολλές καµάρες, στενά σοκάκια και σκαλιά, ο ναόςofτων abound in the area) attract the tourists. At the ενώ entrance theΑγίων villageΑποand στόλων δεσπόζει στο κέντρο του. Το επισκευασµένο παραδοσιακό λιοτρίβι beside the war memorial, there is the bust of “ Ambrosius Pleanthidis”, και η πηγή «λεύκες» bishop of “Moschoni(λόγω των δέντρων sia” and national holy που αφθονούν στην martyr, made by the περιοχή) προσελκύουν sculptor N. Paraskeτους περαστικούς. Στην vas, while in the vilείσοδο του χωριού και lage there is alsoυπάρthe δίπλα στο Ηρώο bustπροτοµή of the eminent χει του Αµcitizen “Gregory Pliβροσίου Πλειανθίδη, anthis”, Bishop of επισκόπου ΜοσχονηPHOTO: ZEFI POTIRI σίων-εθνοϊεροµάρτυChalkis under 50 ρα, φιλοτεχνηµένη γλύπτη Ν. of Παρασκευά, ενώ µέσα στο χωριόofυπάρχει, years. This village isαπό theτο birthplace many traditional “builders” the isεπίσης, προτοµή του ντόπιου Πλειανθού, Μητροπολίτη land. Butηmostly, the village wasΓρηγορίου the birthplace of some significant Χαλκίδας personεπί 50 χρόνια. Από εδώ κατάγονται αρκετοί παραδοσιακοί «χτιστάδες» του νηalities such as Ioannis Kardamitsis (Former High-School Principal, Mayor σιού. Το χωριό έχει αναδείξει προσωπικότητες όπως ο Ιωάννης Καρδαµίτσης of(σχολάρχης, Tinos andδήµαρχος presidentΤήνου of the Institute of Virgin P.I.E.T.), as και Holy πρόεδρος του ΠΙΙΕΤ) και οMary Σάββας Απέργης well as Savvas Aperghis (Teacher, scholar, writer andΤήνου). Mayor Εδώ of Tinos). The (εκπαιδευτικός, µελετητής-συγγραφέας και δήµαρχος υπάρχουν ακόµα ένας παραδοσιακός φούρνος αλλά και ταβέρνες-καφενεία. Ο σύλλογος village association organizes traditional festivals, such as the customary του χωριού διοργανώνει συχνά παραδοσιακά πανηγύρια, όπως χοιροσφάγια “pork-slaughters” and the ripping carnival ball. There are also traditional και τον περίφηµο «αποκριανό» χορό. bakeries, taverns and coffee-shops in this village.

71 71


72

T he city ( “ C hor a ” ) a nd the vill a ges o f T inos

THE CARNIVAL BALL Formerly, in the village of «Triandaros», during the days of the carnival, the villagers kept the tradition of the “carnival ball” alive. For 21 days, as long as the carnival lasted, the inhabitants of the village returned at home at night, entertaining themselves with songs such as the following: Oh, my tongue, please start Singing a song in honor Of our friends here, To entertain our little nice company Then, they continued with sarcastic and erotic verses. In the meantime they danced spontaneous merry dances following the rhythms being played. Today, attempts are being made by the people of «Triandaros» and the association of the village, for the rebirth of this original tradition.

Berdemiaros It is a small picturesque thorp the little sibling of «Triandaros», built on

PHOTO: ZEFI POTIRI

a mountain slope, with its houses climbing the hill. After a period of de-population, its houses were mostly inhabited by Europeans, who kept the traditional style unaltered either in those they built or in the ones they restored.

Dyo Horia This village, with the panoramic view to the Aegean and the neighboring islands, has several water sources and green spaces, as well as a healthy climate. According to tradition, the five natural sources were dedicated to the corresponding Nymphs of the village. Its name comes from the two villages existPHOTO: ZEFI POTIRI


VILLAGES

PHOTO: ZEFI POTIRI

PHOTO: ZEFI POTIRI

ing in the area, that were previously separated by a river. Afterwards, due to the reconstruction, those two villages were united. Its central square with the plane-trees is one of the most beautiful of the island, with an ultra-centenarian plane-tree near the water source. Here, the village association “Glisterni” organizes lamb-roasting feasts with music and dances, during Easter. Its two churches are placed at the two opposite ends of the village, namely the church of Saint John and the Assumption of the Virgin Mary church. The traditional path connecting this village with the nearby villages of “Arnados” and “Triandaros” is worth walking through. During the summer season, a cafeteria and a tavern are open, with delicious dishes and a marvelous view. From here you can get to the beaches of “Lychnaftia” and “Fero Horio”. Arnados It is placed east of “Kehrovouni” Convent and is one of the most ancient villages but also the one with the highest altitude. Its great traditional architecture makes it worth visiting. There, you will find mediaeval arches and arcades, the cobble-stone pavements, the historical water fountain of 1823 at the upper square, but also the view to the Aegean and Mykonos island. The village town planning bears a great resemblance to that of the adjacent “Kehrovouni Convent”, and that is not so surprising. It has two big churches, namely the “Assumption of Virgin Mary”, within the village limits and Aghioi Anargyroi by the road to the village of “Dyo Choria”. “Panaidaki”, (or little Madonna-Church) is another interesting monument hidden in an arcade, where, the legend says, a so called Secret School operated.

73


T he city ( “ C hor a ” ) a nd the vill a ges o f T inos

The village has two museums, the Church Museum, founded in 1987, with the ecclesiastical equipment of churches in the area and books, and the agricultural museum with domestic appliances and old tools. The active village association publishes the newspaper “Our Arnados”. There are some cafeterias and taverns.

Moundados Moundados is placed on the slope of “Kehrovouni” mountain. It is one more traditional village with many arches, white houses close to each other, roads paved with marble slabs and many steps. In the village center, there is a stone bridge over a creek flowing during winter months, to which the village owes its greenery. Nearby, there is a traditional well. The impressive church of Saint John, the village “cathedra”, has a marble crafted chancel screen and holy icon stands, while more old churches are all over the village. The inhabitants of “Moundados” and its active association offer their hospitality during the two church festivities of Saint John and Aghioi Anargyroi at “Gyrla”. Until the beginning of 1800, the village had a tradition in commercial activities, fishing and seafaring (the henchman of Miaoulis, Captain Sigalas came from here). One of the best olive presses of Tinos was located here

PHOTO: ZEFI POTIRI

74

until the 60’s. The village is the birthplace of the “Lambaki” brothers, as well as John Platis and the archeologist Lila Maragou.


VILLAGES

JOHN PLATIS (Wood carver-image engraver) He was born in 1838 in “Moundados” and, at an early age, moved with his parents to Athens and inhabited the house of Alexander Rangavis. The poet detected the boy’s talent very early and prompted his parents to let him attend lessons at the school of Fine Arts. Indeed, at the age of 13 the young Platis started taking lessons in painting, chalcography and wood- carving from the teacher and monk Agathonicus Triandafilou. He was a classmate of the great painters Lytras and Ghizis, as well as of other major personalities of the Art world, becoming a prominent figure, due to his artistic creations The church of the Annunciation gallery has some of his work, the most important being the one of the Trinity, sized 24.5 x 29.5 cm, in which 57 religious configurations are portrayed, as well as the “Virgin Mary of Kikkos”, while a very important piece is also called “Axion Esti”, and is to be found at Mount Athos. (Agion Oros). Platis had participated in several exhibitions, and was widely acclaimed. He taught his art at the Popular University of the “Friends of the People Society” for many years, free of charge. During the last thirty years of his life, he lost his sight, and that is why no pieces of his exist from that period. He passed away in 1928, at the age of 90.

“LAMBAKI” BROTHERS The three Lambaki brothers, come from “Mountados”. The first one, John (1851-1916), was the official photographer of the Olympic Games of 1896, as well as the Royal Family photographer. The second one, George (1854-1914), studied Christian Archaeology and was one of the founding members of the “Christian Archeological Society”. The rescue and preservation works of “Dafni” Monastery are his own merit, while, at the same time he held a professorship of Christian Archaeology at the Athens University. The third one, Emmanuel (1859-1909), a painter, studied at the School of Fine Arts and continued at the Academy of Munchen with Nicholas Gizis as a professor and had earned a scholarship by the Panhellenic Foundation of Virgin Mary (P.I.E.T). Several of his works were awarded prizes in painting exhibitions and in 1905 he founded a private School of Painting. From 1903 to 1909, year of his death, he had been a Professor at the School of Fine Arts.

75


76

T he city ( “ C hor a ” ) a nd the vill a ges o f T inos

Karya

PHOTO: ZEFI POTIRI

The village, being built on a slope and the green area of the bank, is distinguished for its proximity to “Xomburgo”. It has a view of the bank of mountain “Kehrovounio” with the chapels, the dovecotes and the Monastery overhanging on the top, but also the harbor town and the blue of the Aegean Sea. It is undoubtedly one of the most ancient villages, as the name reveals: Karya from the people called Kares (it is also said that it was named after the walnut tree “Karidia” which abounded in the area). It has been an important head-village, both during the Venetian period and afterwards. It should be mentioned that here was the place of the first cheese-dairy of the island. A school for female students a lyceum and afterwards another school existed as well. Today, some old mansions, but also three more parochial churches (Saint Eleutherios, Saint Dimitrios and Madonna’s Assumption ) bear testimony of the old glory. The newly built houses, according to the traditional standards, the beautiful gardens, the cobbled alleys, the drinking fountains and the beautiful circular square, induce in visitors a wish to discover the beauties of the village. Its village park, the only one on the island protected, is a trademark with its post- Byzantine church of Virgin Mary’s Assumption and the war memorial, work of Art by “Evriviadis Lampaditis”.


VILLAGES

PHOTO: ZEFI POTIRI

This is the birthplace of important men and women:“Hatzigeorgakis Siotis”, a great benefactor of Virgin Mary, “John Siotis, son of Anthony”, who had been Minister of Education under the period of 1922-1923, as well as the first woman sculptor of the Cyclades, “Irene Hariati”. Here one can visit an interesting folkmuseum, which is housed in the old elementary school, property of the village cultural association. A marble workshop is also operating, as well as a carpenter workshop and a tavern, beside the ravine with the old well under the shadow of the trees.The active cultural association publishes a newspaper “The Voice of Karia” arranging all sorts of festivals and similar activities, thus continuing to feature the traditional cultural events of this historic village and Tinos in general.

SUMMER FESTIVALS IN KARYA In 1996 the association of Karya, after having completed 50 years of creative progress, began to organize outdoor festivals in the village square. Those festivals continue until today and they are considered a cultural treasure for the island, as they are being attended by hundreds of the association’s friends. History, culture, language, tradition and religion are the themes of those festivals, while the collaboration of outstanding Tinian scholars contributes to their success.Topics like “Greek language studies and the local dialects in Tinos”, “The history of Xomburgo”, “The contribution of the clergy in the progress of the Orthodox church”, ”Modern Tinian poets”, “Tinian press and its history”, “Last century ships”, are only some of the ones that have been already presented. At the end of every festival, the hospitable inhabitants of “Karia” offer homemade confectionery and raki (arrack) to the guests.

77


78

T he city ( “ C hor a � ) a nd the vill a ges o f T inos


PHOTO: EVELYN FOSKOLOU

VILLAGES 79


80

T he city ( “ C hor a ” ) a nd the vill a ges o f T inos

Tripotamos- Sperados Tripotamos is the first village the tourist meets when travelling to the hinterland of the island, at the roots of mount Xomburgo, built among three rivers, where it also got its name (Tripotamos=three rivers). It is one of the oldest villages with arches, arcades, steps, cobbled alleys and both traditional and modern houses.The parochial church of Virgin Mary stands out and, on the day of its celebration, the villagers, keeping the tradition alive, organize parties in their houses inviting all guests and worshipers. Here, the custom of “The Birth of Jesus” (Kavos) is celebrated during Christmas, following local mediaeval New Year traditions. Close by, there is the cheese dairy factory of the island, as well as pottery and confectionery workshops. “Sperados” is a small thorp that belongs to Tripotamos. The delicate houses give it a picturesque aspect, while a traditional path connects it with “Tripotamos”. In the middle of it, you can encounter the old elementary school. Those two thorps are “birthplaces” of many professors, such as the Greek Academy member “Markos Siotos”, artists of the figurative arts like G. Paraskevas (Icon painter and teacher), “Fr. Desypris” (Icon painter), “D. Desypris” (painter), while the modern time philosopher Cornelius Kastoriadis also lived here.

PHOTO: ZEFI POTIRI


VILLAGES

THE FRATERNITY BANQUET IN TRIPOTAMOS (KAVOS) It is a Christmas custom taking place annually on the 25th of December in Tripotamos. One family, headed by a “kavos”, as its leader is called, takes care of all yearly matters and obligations concerning the parochial church of the village, honoring the “Presentation of the Virgin Mary”. The noon of Christmas day, the “kavos”- household prepares a sumptuous banquet, (including soup, boiled meat, onion stew, dolmas, roast and fruit) this way expressing love and brotherhood.The banquet is attended solely by the village men and the priest. After the meal, some of the men, along with the priest, move the Icon of the “Jesus Nativity” to the house of the new host, who will be taking over the previous host’s duties, chanting Christmas anthems. They place the Icon on the table near the priest, who distributes holy bread, while candles are lit by everyone. After the new “Kavos” takes over, sweets are offered, wishes are exchanged and the Icon is returned to the church.The next day, they all gather at the old leader’s house and eat what has been left from the previous day.The duties of the old “kavos” end with this Christmas meal, apart from his duty to light the candle in front of the Icon, until the end of the year. This custom is being followed since very old times and, as it seems, will continue for many more years, as proven by the fact that the catalogue with the chiefs reaches the year of 2025.

SAINT TRYFON FESTIVAL (01/02) On the 1st of February, the day of Saint Tryfon celebration, and after the first opening of the year’s barrels of wine of Saint Minas has taken place (11/11), a competition for the best wine has been established under the past few years. This day, at the homonymous chapel near the village Tripotamos, after the Mass, a real festival is being held by the villagers who arrange a wine competition. For that cause every wine producer brings his own new wine. A committee is formed by the people attending and everyone offers wine to be tasted.The committee chooses the best and everyone congratulates. A traditional feast follows.

81


T he city ( “ C hor a ” ) a nd the vill a ges o f T inos

82

PHOTO: ZEFI POTIRI

Ktikados It is a traditional village with a view to seaside “Kionia”, with large houses decorated with lintels, paved with marble slabs, alleys and arches. At the entrance of the village, there is the beautiful Catholic church of the «Holy Cross» distinguished by the significant bell tower, which is dated in the 17th century, and further away the Candlemas church called also Megalomata (Big eyed), with the unique marble entrance (Orthodox). The old tap with the marble laundresses complete the image of the picturesque village. A tavern and a traditional cafeteria can also be found there.

PHOTO: ARISTEIDES KONTOGEORGIS

A CUSTOM OF “LOVE”, IN THE VILLAGE OF “KTIKADOS” Every year on Easter Monday, after Mass at the village’s cathedral dedicated to the Candlemas, a procession of the Resurrection Icon takes place around the village. On twelve o’ clock at noon, the bell-ringing invites both the locals and the visitors into participating at a Communal table, the custom of “Love”, as it is named, held in an appropriate room under the church, with a capacity of 300 people. They all sit together, near each other and eat veal soup, roast meat and a variety of appetizers, as the custom dictates, all cooked by the women of the village. After the meal, a chant follows together with a speech by the parish priest and, afterwards, a memorial service is held, in the name of every single parish priest that had ever served at the chapel as well as for the villagers’ souls. After the Sanctus comes to an end, the collection tray of the church “comes out” for the villagers to contribute for the preservation of the custom of “Love”.


VILLAGES

Hatzirados

PHOTO: ZEFI POTIRI

PHOTO: ZEFI POTIRI

It is a picturesque village with a beautiful view, paths paved with flagstones, white houses and yards filled with flowers. It is embellished by the cathedra of the Holy Trinity, dated from 1850, while near the square there is the second parish church, the old Trinity, which was renamed as the “Transfiguration of Jesus Christ”. At the entrance of the village, there is a tavern-cafeteria. Kambos It is placed in the center of the island, in the fertile valley of the Tinian hinterland. The church of Saint Catherine in the village (Orthodox) is a remnant of the brief Russian dominance on the island, with a remarkable carved chancel screen. It was built in 1771, in honor of the empress Catherine the Great, of Russia, under the supervision of G. Dorizas and the chief of the Russian fleet, and was financed by Admiral Orlof. The second church, the Trinity (Catholic), stands out for its beautiful pebble-paved front yard. Nun Pelaghia (later declared as a Saint), who dreamt of the Virgin Mary Icon, was born here. At the edge of the village, there is the old elementary school, which was conceded by the borough of Xomburgo, so as to be transformed into the museum of the painter “Costas Tsoklis”. It is the only museum of this modern artist and comprises an attraction for the village’s visitors and Tinos, in general. Until recently the last windmill was functioning near the village of “Kam-

83


84

T he city ( “ C hor a ” ) a nd the vill a ges o f T inos

HONEY CELEBRATION In the begining of September, at the village “Kampos” they celebrate the production of honey. Every apiarist/producer of honey brings samples of his new production and offers to everyone being there to celebrate this “sweet” custom. A treat with honey-arrack follows, together with honey-based local confectionary, rich eating and naturally, the necessary supplement of a celebration like this; violins and dancing with traditional songs, “Syrtos” and “Ballos”.

bos” and it is considered the best preserved windmill on the island. The village’s traditional well with the marble “laundresses” are preserved until today. Here, the bakery makes tasty crackers, while there is also a cafeteria.

Tarambados It is built since 1700, with many arches and unique beautiful houses, and the church of the Angels «Taxiarchs» which dominates the village profile. The nun, that dreamt of Virgin Mary of Vrissi, whose Icon is kept in the church, used to live here. Its position is a privileged one, because it is placed at the little valley where the unique cluster of dove-cotes exists. Those dove-cotes differ from the rest, on account of their size, their beauty and their ar tistic design. After an initiative of the association called “Friends of Greenery”, most of them have been repaired. PHOTO: ZEFI POTIRI


VILLAGES

VIRGIN MARY OF «VRISSI» PHOTO: IOANNIS VIDALIS

Virgin Mary of “Vrissi” comprises the largest Catholic pilgrimage on the island. The church and its building compound are built beside the road to “Exo Meri” of Tinos, near the crossroads of Saint Marina, leading to the sea. It is built in a green meadow, among olive trees, aspens, cypresses and eucalyptuses. There, a natural water source can be found, which possibly gave its name to the village “Vrissi”(Tap). Others believe that the name “Vrissi” comes from the word “Vresi”, a folk version of the word “Evresi” (finding). The icon of Virgin Mary of “Vrissi” (representing the child-holding Madonna) was discovered at the beginning of the 17th century, but the icon itself is dated during the 15th century. A Franciscan order nun, who lived in “Tarambados”, dreamt of Virgin Mary, who indicated the place where they should dig to find her Icon. After repeated tries, the nun convinced the locals to search and, at last, the icon was found under a heap of reeds, according to what Virgin Mary hinted. It was transferred to the church of Tarambados, but although they had decided to place it there, the icon returned to the place it was found. Finally, they built a small chapel on that site, dedicated to Virgin Mary of “Vrissi”. Today the Icon is kept in the Cathedral of Tarambados and on the eve of its celebration (14/08) it is transferred to “Vrissi”. There, a great festival takes place, with the reunion of the Catholic priests and believers from Tinos and elsewhere.The second big celebration takes place in “Vrissi” on the second Sunday of May. The once small chapel has been rebuilt as an expanded version, so as to satisfy the needs of the crowds of pilgrims. According to a folk tradition, the Icon has passed some adventurous moments. After it was transferred to Constantinople to cure a patient, he sent back to Tinos an identical copy, after his recovery, instead of the original icon. Only after his death this fraud was discovered and the real icon returned to its base. Today”, the copy is kept in “Vrissi, as well.

85


T he city ( “ C hor a ” ) a nd the vill a ges o f T inos

PHOTO: ZEFI POTIRI

Smardakito This village has been preserved more than any other, keeping its traditional architectural features. With a view to the valley of “Komi” and Xomburgo, it is all green, due to the bountiful waters in the area. At the square of the village, there is the church of Saint Anthony with the high bell tower, and on the opposite side, the famous drinking fountain with the cool water which placates the visitor’s thirst. The local cultural association created a folk- museum which exhibits old furniture, embroidery, household utensils and agricultural tools dating as back as the 16th century. Kardiani The first village we come across at the southwestern side of the island (Exo Meri), is «Kardiani». This special village has a privileged and unique position, with its water sources as well as its archeology. It is built like an outdoor theater and is “clambered” on the slope of the mountain “Pateles”, with a view to the Aegean Sea and its islands.

PHOTO: ZEFI POTIRI

86


VILLAGES

The village is green due to the numerous water sources. The drinking fountains are found all over the place, even inside the houses. Furthermore, the area comprises one of the most ancient sites, proving that life existed on the island since then.The discovery of the geometrical tombs in the area and the existence of the plateau “War’s valley” are facts beyond dispute. The village is inhabited by Orthodox people, their Cathedra being the Holy Trinity, but there is also the presence of Catholics with their two churches, “Metastasis of Virgin Mary” called “Santissimo” by the locals and “Virgin Mary’s Birthday” called “Kiura”. Pay attention to the picturesque arches and slab-paved steps and alleys. Even the houses with marvelous architecture are a proof of the artistic temperament of the villagers, decorate the village and invite the visitor to explore it. It has two cultural Associations, the “Holy Trinity” and the “Popular Kardiani Brotherhood”. The historian-researcher Stefanos Delatolas was born here. There is a traditional coffee house combined with a grocery, as well as a tavern. Finally, anyone wanting to combine their strolling with swimming, can choose among three beaches offered, the cove “Giannaki” with taverns, “Kalyvia” and “Saint Peter” with the homonymous chapel.

Ysternia It is one of the biggest villages in Tinos, clambered on the bank of the mountain “Meroviglio”, with a fantastic view to Syros, a real balcony over the Aegean Sea. It is located at the southwestern side of the island, and it owes its name to this fact, the word Ysternia meaning outmost. Due to its position, close to marble deposits, the village is abundantly clad with this stone. On the houses, the lintels, the yards, the drinking fountains, the busts and the statues that have been sculpted by local sculptors, the steps, even the ground, wherever the imagination of every builder can go, white color is present. The square “N. Glini” with the bust of the village benefactor attracts the visitors, inviting them to rest in the shade of the old plane-tree and to refresh themselves at the drinking fountain. The Byzantine church of Saint Paraskevi, at the centre of the village is marble-clad inside out. This village is a real cradle of art and virtue, as many of the village artists have contributed to its decoration. It is the birthplace of many considerable sculptors such as, Ant. Sohos, L. Lameras, G. Kyrarinis, I. and Fr. Malakates, and the Fytali brothers. In the village there is a museum, where pieces of the village artists works are exhibited.

87


T he city ( “ C hor a ” ) a nd the vill a ges o f T inos

PHOTO: ZEFI POTIRI

88

The cultural Association of the village publishes the newspaper “Ta Ysterniotika” (news of Ysternia) since 1983 and with the events it organizes, contributes to highlighting local tradition and culture. The village has some coffee houses, a grocery store, a tavern, rooms to let, as well as a marble sculpting workshop. A road leads to the cove and the beach “Skinaki”, where rooms for rent are located together with sea food taverns. At the northern part of the island, we come across an impressive landscape, where remnants of an array of many windmills have been standing as signs of past glory. They have been declared as ‘listed monuments’ by the Greek state. Near this area, the church of “The re-discovery” is placed. It was built there, after the rescuing of the Annunciation Icon, when it was stolen. PHOTO: ARISTEIDES KONTOGEORGIS


VILLAGES

GEORGE VITALIS He was born in “Ysternia” in 1840 from an architect father, whom he didn’t follow professionally. He studied sculpting at the School of Arts of the Technical University of Athens and after seven years he graduated with the first prize. He continued in the Academy of Arts in Munich, where he rose to

prominence and he was offered a teaching job there. He preferred though, to return to Greece and particularly to Syros, where he founded a marble sculpting workshop, where he created many remarkable sculptures that embellished the city of “Hermoupolis”, such as the marble chancel screen of Saint Nicholas. Furthermore, he decorated the royal palace and the mansions of Athens, while Harilaos Trikoupis, appraising his work, kept asking his opinion about the artworks he was going to decorate the Capital with. Among his creations there is the statue of the English politician Gladstone, a supporter of the Greek cause, placed in the yard of the Athens University.

LAZARUS SOHOS Lazarus Sohos from “Ysternia” was born in 1862. At the age of 14 he studied at the School of Arts in Athens. At the end of his studies, in 1881, he left for Paris, on a scholarship by the Holy Foundation of the Annunciation of Tinos. He studied at the French Academy of Fine Arts, where he made himself known. While being in Paris, he founded a workshop of marble sculpting, where the greatest artists of Europe used to meet.

89


90

T he city ( “ C hor a ” ) a nd the vill a ges o f T inos

The works that he designed and created are inspired by the Greek history and nature. He seems influenced by Roden’s art and he stands out for his romanticism. He is one of the most highly acclaimed artists, having been awarded prizes up to 17 times. In 1905, together with Lazarus Fytalis, he started the reconstruction of the monument of the “Lion of Haironia”, while simultaneously, he supervised the reconstruction works in the archeological site of Ancient Olympia. In 1908, he was granted a professorship in the Higher School of Arts in Athens and three years later he passed away at the age of 49.

ANTONY SOHOS He was born in “Ysternia” in 1888 and he passed away in Athens in 1975. Coming from a family with artistic tradition in marble Arts, he studied at the Higher School of Arts, where he won his degree, and afterwards with the help of a public scholarship, in Paris at the School of Fine Arts. He took part in competitions and he was frequently awarded prizes. From 1926 until 1953 he taught sculpting at the Higher School of Arts in Athens. During the last years of his life he practiced wood carving. A room in the yard of the Annunciation church of Tinos was dedicated to Antony Sohos, where pieces of his are exhibited. His work is embellishing various places in Greece and abroad.

LAZARUS LAMERAS From a family with a tradition in sculpting, Lazarus Lameras was born in “Ysternia” in 1918. He was influenced by Tinos and the great G. Halepas and he studied at the Higher School of Arts and in Paris, where he rose to eminence and fame. He is the first sculptor who presented abstract works of sculpture in Greece, while he designed monuments, busts, war memorials and much more, as well as the biggest copper statue in Greece, 5,5 meters high(“Sentinel” in Kalpaki).

MALAKATE BROTHERS Bothers Jacob and Francisco Malakates come from “Ysternia”. They had been top sculptors. In Athens, they founded the first sculpting workshop, where great artists have emerged. The first brother had been executing all the big ornamental works, which the Bavarian architects assigned him and he was decorated with the “Silver Cross of the Saviour”. The second one had been a great statue sculptor.


VILLAGES

FYTALI BROTHERS (George, Markus, Lazarus, John and Haralambos) They were born in “Ysternia” right after 1820, from a sculptor father from whom they inherited the artistic temperament. They founded a workshop in Athens, which had been an artistic cradle, between 1840-1878. All the brothers came to be distinguished in the field of Arts, complementing each other. Many of their works can be found in the 1st Cemetery of Athens, while the piece “Jesus holding the lamp” is done solely by George (Fytalis).

91


T he city ( “ C hor a ” ) a nd the vill a ges o f T inos

Giados PHOTO: ZEFI POTIRI

It is a small picturesque village with a structure formed like a pyramid and a nice view. It is placed on the bank of “Kehrovouni”, with the church of Saint Anna built at its highest point. On Her name day, in the summer, it draws crowds of people for the renowned festival and the hospitality of its inhabitants. In the green dell there is a traditional well (a source with laundresses) and running water.

It is one more small and hospitable village with pretty houses and the church of Virgin Mary (Myrtiotissa) with its bell tower dominating the village. It is known for the art of the horse-saddle makers which were formerly working there as well as for the many confectioners who are established in Athens and elsewhere.

PHOTO: ZEFI POTIRI

Kehros

Mesi It is placed on a hub of the area’s road network (where the name comes from), since at the borders of “Mesi”, at “Pentostrato”, five central main roads unite, leading to every direction on Tinos. It is a village with a few arches and a beautiful square in its middle as well as a remarkable church of the Taxiarchs at its entrance. Here, you can come across the monastery of Saint Francesco which houses the museum of agricultural tools, but also taverns and a traditional confectionary and bakery. The village Association is wor th mentioning. PHOTO: ZEFI POTIRI

92


VILLAGES

Steni It is a central village, placed at the foothill of “Tsiknias”. The inhabitants, both orthodox and catholic, cohabitated peacefully, during long periods of time. Saint Anthony, in the neighborhood of “Kamari”, cathedral of the orthodox people, is an old church with a delicate wood carved chancel screen, a pulpit and a bishop-throne. At the lower “Steni”, Saint Nicholas of the catholics is a beautiful and newly refurbished church. The village has plenty of arches, traditional houses but also modern ones, while it also has a day-care center, an elementary school, a rural doctor’s PHOTO: ZEFI POTIRI office, two grocery stores, a butcher shop, an electrician’s shop and a car-repair shop. Taverns, coffee houses and cafeterias meet the visitors’ demands. During the summer months, the folk-museum operates. It was founded in 2000, with the collaboration of the two Associations of the village, named “Tsiknias” and “Saint Antony”. The items exhibited are mostly old (up to 2 centuries) household utensils, many of them being original and highly interesting. Those two Associations present a remarkable cultural activity. It has a great tradition in athletics and is the birthplace of many outstanding athletes (Fr. Alvertis).

PHOTO: EVELYN FOSKOLOU

93


T he city ( “ C hor a ” ) a nd the vill a ges o f T inos

Potamia It is located near “Steni” with a view to Mykonos and the Sea of “Tsiknias”, surrounded by green dells with running waters which formerly had been used in running the watermills of the area. The village has the traditional houses built close to each other. In the village centre, its cathedral is called “Virgin Mary of Car-

PHOTO: ZEFI POTIRI

millo.” There are only a few permanent inhabitants left, who are farmers, but there is a considerable Association that during the summer organizes special events. From here you can visit the beautiful beaches of “Santa Margarita” and “Faneromeni”.

Myrsini On the way from “Steni” to “Livada”, we come across “Myrsini”, a clearly traditional village. The church of “The Annunciation of Virgin Mary”, has three aisles, is magnificent and has a well organized architectural structure. There are

PHOTO: ZEFI POTIRI

94

two taverns, as well as a grocery store and an English language center. Whoever desires to climb “Tsiknias”, the highest mountain of Tinos, can start from here.


VILLAGES

PHOTO: ZEFI POTIRI

Falatados It comprises the second biggest village after “Pyrgos”, dated since 1400 AC.The village is traditional, with narrow cobbled alleys and many arches. The inhabitants, in cooperation with their progressive Association, organize many events of cultural and religious content. The Holy Trinity, a massive and impressive church with a cupola, adorns the village. It has a coffee house-grocery, cafeterias and taverns with traditional dishes. Here a place of figurative Arts operates with both contemporary and old exhibits, as well as the so called “house of exhibitions”. Some other interesting feature is the exhibition center, housed in the old elementary school, with paintings of classic artists. During September, the famous festival of the arrack production takes place in its schoolyard.There are also many old winepresses and arrack makers here which are well preserved and operating “RAKIZIO” (Arrack brewing) The «rakizio» belongs to the auxiliary rooms of the village house, where the farmers brew their raki (from the Indian orak), the traditional strong drink of Tinos. After the vine harvest and the grape stepping in the wine presser, they take the remnants of the bunches and put them in a copper boiler with a 40-120 kg capacity, on which a cap is firmly placed which ends at a coniform exit with a pipe. They place it on a focal point with strong fire, for the distillation to start (after getting a special permit from the chemical state authorities). The pipe goes through a water tank, and comes out from the opposite side. During the boiling the steam produced from the boiler goes through the pipe which is cold because of the water and there it is liquefied, dripping at the exit into a container.The first arrack is so strong, that it was used as ethanol in the past. After some time, the next raki, is produced. In the village of “Falatados” the “rakizio” has been established as a celebration and every year on the 8th of September, people from all over the island, meet in the old elementary school yard. As the raki is produced, the people who attend drink together, while the women offer food. Dancing and singing with violins and lutes, follow.

95


T he city ( “ C hor a ” ) a nd the vill a ges o f T inos

Koumaros It is a small traditional village on Tinos, built on the slope of the mountain “Fourka”, under the shadow of the imposing rock of Xomburgo. It faces PHOTO: ZEFI POTIRI

96

the valley from above and most of the villages of the Tinian hinterland. An old path connects the village with the old castle of Xomburgo. There is a coffee house which operates with a Swiss system and everyone can be self serviced.

Near by, there is the old derelict monastery of the Ursulines and the chapel of Saint Angela, founder of the brotherhood.

Volax This village is built in the most unique landscape, not only of the island, but also of the rest of the world. The white houses with the flower yards

PHOTO: ZEFI POTIRI


VILLAGES

are found among the granite blocks offering a remarkable spectacle. The only workshops of baskets of the island are found here and the elderly technicians proud of their art, show their baskets to the visitors. A small outdoor theatre, well used under the summer, gives a special note to the village, while a folk- museum is also available. PHOTO: ARISTEIDES KONTOGEORGIS

THE PHENOMENON OF THE LANDSCAPE IN «VOLAX» One of the unusual sights of Tinos is the landscape of the village “Volax”. The visitor comes across a remarkable phenomenon: enormous round rocks are to be found scattered around a vast territory. The big and small rock formations, that have given their name to that beautiful picturesque village standing among and on them, provoke the interest and curiosity of the beholder trying to explain the reason they were created and took these shapes. The specialists advocate that granite existed here. As the time went by and after the corrosions and detritions took place, some pieces were separated from one another. Their present circular shape is owed to external factors, like dampness, the changes of the temperature and the wind. On the other hand, myths want the phenomenon to be attributed to meteorites, to the Titan fights or simply to the sea that someday covered this area. At any rate, the scenery is marvelous and satisfies every visitor.

PHOTO: ARISTEIDES KONTOGEORGIS

97


98

T he city ( “ C hor a ” ) a nd the vill a ges o f T inos

Xynara On the slope of Xomburgo there is this village, built among pines and palm trees, with the old houses and the two Catholic churches at the edges, Virgin Mary of Rodario (Metropolis of the Catholic Archbishop) and the church of the Apostles Peter and Paul. During the mediaeval years this village was the island’s centre of trading and commerce. At its entrance, a big building stands out, headquarter of the Catholic Archbishop of Tinos. It is PHOTO: ZEFI POTIRI called the “Bishop’s Palace” with the seminarists’ study room, while today the church archives are found. One can find the archives of the catholic parishes (the oldest in Tinos) and an ecclesiastic heirlooms museum, where items from 23 different parishes of the island and other Cycladic islands are exhibited.

THE ARCHIVE OF THE CATHOLIC ARCHBISHOP OF TINOS The archive is housed at the headquarters of the Catholic Archbishop of Tinos, in the village of “Xynara”. It is mainly ecclesiastical, but it also includes documents regarding the life of the Tinian villagers, during the past centuries. The oldest document, which is dated since 1390, concerns the catholic community and due to its nature it increases continuously. The archive consists of three sections: • The episcopal archive. It involves mainly the relation among the bishop of Tinos and Rome, the local authority, the Greek government, other bishops, the correspondence among bishops and more. • Parochial archives. Codes and files are included from the villages of Tinos, original family documents which they consigned to the parish priest to keep, certificate books, church history and their property, ecclesiastical books etc. • Documents of the Consistory Court. They mostly regard the life of the inhabitants and the differences between them but also equity documents at the time of the dominance of the Venetians and the Turks. Apart from these, the archives of the catholic churches of Mykonos, Andros, Chios, Lesbos and Samos, are also kept. Furthermore, various documents, such as the Consistory Court of Crete code (1580-1610), Sultans’ and Turkish officers’ diktats and more. The archive is classified until 1850 and available to the public. Efforts are being made for the subsequent documents to be classified too.


VILLAGES

99

ing equipment, the academy pharmacy, several means of audio-visual teaching and more. There is also the significant Church of Saint Joseph (of the middle of the 19th century), built as a baroque neoclassical buildings with an extraordinary interior design (efforts are being made to collect money for its preservation). At the Convent of the Ursulines, embroidery is exhibited, previous students’ books, pianos, and other instruments. The village’s active Association, organizes events of cultural interest quite often.

THE CONVENT OF THE URSULINES

It was founded in “Loutra” in 1862 by a nun of the Ursuline order. It started with bright perspectives and it was meant to house an orphanage, a boarding school, a French high-school, a university, a Greek elementary school and a carpet making school. It reached its peak at the end of the 19th century, while in the beginning of the 20th century it had over 300 board students from all over Greece. During World War II, the school closed down and when it reopened it limited its operation to the elementary school, which closed down around 1980, while the carpet making school operated until 1990.Today, the building comprises the landmark of the village and it is somehow preserved even though it is abandoned as a teaching institution.

PHOTO: ZEFI POTIRI

Loutra The village has taken its name from the baths (loutra), that formerly existed in the area. It is green and full of gardens and citrus fruits. It has a large history, as this was the place with the sabbeys of the Jesuit monks (after the destruction of the Castle at the beginning of the 19th century) and the Ursuline nuns. It had been one of the most important thorps of the island during the past two centuries and it comprised a religious and cultural centre. In the Jesuit monastery, a folkloric museum operates, where you can admire, apart from the monastery’s heirlooms, agricultural and other professional tools of the 19th and 20th century, an olive-press, a wine-press, a raki brew-


100

T he city ( “ C hor a ” ) a nd the vill a ges o f T inos

PHOTO: ZEFI POTIRI

Skalados The village is built on the mountain slope with innumerable steps and a marvelous view to the villages around it. It combines both traditional and modern architecture. There are a coffee house and a tavern, where a tourist can have a pleasant stay.

Krokos It owes its name to the homonymous plant and it is built in a green ravine, where the visitor can stop on his way to «Komi» for a pleasant and refreshing break. It is the birthplace of the doctor-philosopher Markakis Zalonis, author of the “History of Tinos published in 1809. The village has coffee houses and picturesque taverns.

PHOTO: ZEFI POTIRI

Monastiria It is an abandoned village. The scenery is brilliant and reminds the visitor of an outdoor museum. The well-preserved whitewashed church of Saint Joseph, at the entrance of the village, above the house ruins is creating an interesting contrast.

PHOTO: ARISTEIDES KONTOGEORGIS


VILLAGES

Sklavohorio It is small village, very well hidden from the others but with a unique view to the wild nor thern side of Tinos and the village “Agapi”. It should be mentioned that there is the church of the Holly Trinity, as well as the laundress that was constructed in 1821. The great painter Nicholas Ghizis comes from this village and you can visit his paternal house. It is the only exclusively or thodox village among the catholic villages of the vicinity.

NICHOLAS GHIZIS He was born in 1842 in the village of “Sklavohorio” in Tinos. Since he was a child he liked to sketch and work with all sorts of drawings. In 1850 his family settled in Athens and his father wanted him to be a carpenter in the small carpentry he had. With the help of his mother, Nicholas studied for one year at the Technical School of Athens. According to the school’s rules, the students attending should be at least twelve years old but Nicholas was only eight. By forging a birth certificate that made him four years older, he could study there and completed his studies in 1861. In 1865, he earned a scholarship from the Holy Foundation of the Annunciation of Tinos, and studied in Munich for seven years where he excelled, following his own personal style. In 1872, when he returned to Athens, he created a painting studio and two years later, went back to Munich, as he was obliged by his scholarship. He was being praised by the top art critics of Munich for his work and, as a result of his merits, he got elected as an ordinary professor of fine arts at the Academy of Munich in 1888. In December of 1900 he passed away, in Munich among his friends and family, causing sadness in the artistic world, his students and the Greek community of Munich.

101


102 102

T he city ( “ ΤΑ C hor a ΚΑΙ ”) a the vill a ges o f T inos Η ΠΟΛΗ (ΧΩΡΑ), ΧΩΡΙΑ ΟΙnd ΟΙΚΙΣΜΟΙ ΤΗΣ ΤΗΝΟΥ

οικογένειά του, σκορπίζοντας στον καλλιτεχνικό µαθητές τουideκαι The cardinal point ofθλίψη his inspiration is theκόσµο, humanτους being in an την ελληνική παροικία του Μονάχου. alistic environment, specific events of family life but also the world of Επίκεντρο της he θεµατολογίας τουhis Γύζηcharείναι children, where expresses ο άνθρωπος µέσα σε εξιδανικευµένο περιβάλacter. λον, ιδιαίτερα συµβάντα οικογενειακής ζωής, Apar t from the East that he visited αλλά και ο κόσµος του παιδιού, µέσα από τον with his friend N. Lytras, he has been οποίο εξωτερικεύει τον ψυχισµό του. influenced by archeological topics and Εκτός από την ανατολή, την οποία επιmythological configurations, the most σκέφτηκε µαζί µε το φίλο του Ν. Λύτρα, έχει impor tant among them beingθέµατα the one επηρεαστεί από αρχαιολογικά και ofµυθολογικές a woman holding a Lyre. During the συνθέσεις µε σηµαντικότερη last years of his life,µορφής the arπου tist κρατά expresses αυτή µιας γυναικείας λύρα. his existential agony by painting reliΣτα τελευταία χρόνια της ζωής του, ο καλλιτέχνης µέσα από θρησκευτικά έργα εκφράζει gious themes. The environment playsτηνa υπαρξιακή αγωνία. Εδώ το περιβάλλον δευτερεύοντα ρόλο, ενώSome κυριsecondarτου y role here, while the light παίζει and darkness dominate. αρχούν το φως και το σκοτάδι. Από τα σηµαντικότερα έργα του είναι το «Κρυφό of his most impor tant pieces are “The secret school”, “The kissing” Σχολειό», το «Φίληµα» και άλλα. and more.

ΦΩΤΟ: ΖΕΦΗ ΠΟΤΗΡΗ

PHOTO: ZEFI POTIRI

Agapi Αγάπη It is one the most traditional andχωριά hospitable villagesαπλωµένο of the island, Από τα πιοofπαραδοσιακά και φιλόξενα του νησιού, στην spread onιδιαίτερη the slopeαρχιτεκτονική, with a specific architecture, arches, lintels, alleysσοκάκια paved πλαγιά µε καµάρες, υπέρθυρα, πλακόστρωτα with slabs and και πηγάδι. Το aρυάκι well. και Theοιriver καand the well λοδιατηρηµένοι preserved π ε ρ ι σ τ ε ρ ι doveώνες cotes induce τον the προκαλούν visitor to explore επισκέπτη να το it.εξερευνήσει. The remarkΗ able church of αξιόλογη εκκληSaint has σία Agapitos του Αγίου given its nameέχει to Αγαπητού the village. δώσει το όνοµα στο χωριό. Υπάρχουν καφενείο και ταβέρνα, και απόThere εδώ is a coffee house and a tavern, and fromΠαναγία here you can be led to the conµπορεί κανείς να οδηγηθεί στη γειτονική τη Βουρνιώτισσα. tiguous Virgin Mary (Vourniotissa)

Περάστρα Perastra

Είναι χτισµένη στην οµώνυµη ρεµατιά, δίπλα στην Κώµη, µε την οποία τη It is built on the ravine with the same name, beside “Komi” with which συνδέει παραδοσιακό µονοπάτι. Είναι καταπράσινη µε ωραία πετρόκτιστα γεis connected by a traditional path. It is green with cute rock stone- bridges, φύρια, κρύες βρύσες, ερείπια ελαιοτριβείων και νερόµυλων.

refreshing fountains, ruins of oil presses and windmills.


PHOTO: ZEFI POTIRI

VILLAGES

Komi It is a head village of Tinos, built on the fertile valley of the island,“Livadi”. It is a village full of life, whith many people in the little streets and alleys and several children playing in the squares. It is also self-sufficient, as it provides all the goods, not only to its inhabitants, but also to the villagers around it. Walking through the paths, resting at its beautiful squares and visiting the catholic church of Saint John, with the marble pre-Christian engraved column found in its yard, can be a nice experience. The largest part of the island’s agricultural and artichoke production is done here. Furthermore, the artichoke festival which is organized in “Komi” at the beginning of May is pretty popular. The village has a tavern, a coffee shop, a grocery store, a rural doctor’s office, as well as the active Association of “Komi-Perastra”.

Kato Klisma It is one of the most fertile villages of the island, while the grassland starts from here. It has a lot of water, cornstalks, and a lot of green. The church of Saint Anastasia is very interesting, built on the ruins of a preChristian sanctuary and ruins of old oil presses.

103


104

T he city ( “ C hor a ” ) a nd the vill a ges o f T inos

ARTICHOKE FESTIVAL The importance of the artichoke production on this island is shown in the “Artichoke festival” that was started the last few years, valorizing this special vegetable. For this reason, 5000-10000 artichokes are being donated by the local farmers. In the morning of the established day at the beginning of May, the women of the village of “Komi”, where the festival takes place, start cleaning and cooking the artichokes. In the evening, when crowds of people reach the village to celebrate, they have filled the tables with various dishes, based on this tasty vegetable. The recipes used are many and you can find artichokes: in omelets, papoutsakia, “a la polita”, with fish, with meat, with eggs and lemon, boiled, in salads and more.The people taste all these culinary creations, while the violins and other instruments play traditional music. People are following the celebration, dancing until dawn.

Aetofolia

PHOTO: IOANNIS VIDALIS

This village has taken its name by its position resembling an “eagle’ s nest”. It is built high on a slope of the “North Mountain” (tou voria to vouni). It is picturesque, with its traditional elements preserved and with a nice view to “Kato Meri”.The new road that was recently opened connects the village to “Exo Meri” through the location “Tis koris o pyrgos” (The daughter’s Tower), one of the most ancient on the island.


VILLAGES

Karkados The thorp took its name from the word “Halkados”, due to the ancient copper (=halkos) quarry that functioning in the area. In this small village you can find the old church of Sotiras, (The Savior) which is distinguished for its bell tower “the small Pisa tower” which has a slight inclination.

Kalloni It is a big green village at the edge of the plains of “Komi” with a lot of beautiful arches. Its old name,“Kellia”, refers to some monk cells that existed in the area. Worth visiting is the great church of Saint Zaharias, one of the biggest in Tinos, with its pebble-paved yard as well as the Monastery of Saint Ypakoi (obedience). The pork slaughters, although being held in many villages, turn into festivals, here. On the last Sunday of the carnival, the locals preserve the custom of burning down the carnival sight. Formerly, there used to be a carpet making school in this village. The last few years, there is a road connecting “Kalloni” and the villages around with the main road “Chora-Pyrgos”. The village has a coffee house, a tavern, a grocery store and more.

PHOTO: IOANNIS VIDALIS

105


106

T he city ( “ C hor a ” ) a nd the vill a ges o f T inos

THE PORK SLAUGHTERS In several villages in Tinos, the pork slaughters are being held during the autumn months.This custom has been celebrated for many years, through a long ceremony, not only with the presence of the family that holds them, but nearly the whole village. Days before the slaughter of the pork the women pick up, blight and grate flavourings along with salt, while the house, the yard and the surrounding areas are being cleaned. The men take care of storing enough wood, to be available for the fire that will be needed for the slaughter. In the middle of October, when the temperature starts to drop and the rain comes, the villagers fix the date that the pork will be slaughtered. The weight of the pork signifies pride for a high accomplishment for its owner, since a well-fed pork can get over 200 kg. That means enough meat and fat for the family for the whole year. The pork slaughter is being started very early in the morning, with the participation of other villagers and wishes are being given to the family man for the pork to be “well eaten”. The cleaning of the slaughter house follows, while the girls treat the participants with raki along with prunes, almonds, walnuts, delights and much more. Thereafter, the animal is being taken out and killed; then, his body hair is burned. Afterwards it is hanged high on a hook for its slaughtering and it is cut into pieces. First, its entrails are being taken out and fried or cooked by the housewife for lunch. Part of the animal turns into sausages and “Louza” (special ham), while the skin fat is being melted in boilers, to turn into fat, to be kept for the winter. Participants in the dinner are the village priest, the rest of the villagers and some friends that are also invited. The tables with the spotless table linen are covered, apart from the delicious pork, with local specialties, salads, Tinian cheese, olives as well as local wine, offering inimitable moments to the guests. Many times, the violin and the lute play music, to complete this special ceremony.This procedure is repeated by all the households during autumn and the beginning of winter.


ΤVΑI LΧL Ω ΡE ΙΑ AG S

ΦΩΤΟ: ΓΙΑΝΝΗΣ ΒΙ∆ΑΛΗΣ

Platia ΚΟΙΝΟΤΗΤΑ ΠΑΝΟΡΜΟΥ “Platia” is located on the way to Pyrgos, viewing the northern side of Tinos and the sea of “Panormos”. The parish church, “Virgin Mary’s birthΠλατιά Πλατιά βρίσκονται στο day” isΤαparticularly considerable πέρασµα προςmarble τον Πύργο, µε for its artistic decoraθέα στη βορινή πλευρά της tion. The war memorial, listing Τήνου και τη θάλασσαofτου Παthe village members «Panνόρµου. Ο ενοριακός ναός, ormos» that took part in the τα Γενέθλια Θεοτόκου, είBalkan Wars της is also important, ναι ιδιαίτερα αξιόλογος για το a piece of the great sculptor µαρµάρινο καλλιτεχνικό του Michael Kouskouris. The base PHOTO: IOANNIS VIDALIS διάκοσµο. Εξάλλου, σηµαντικό of the memorial, which stands είναι και το Ηρώο πεσόντων on local rocks, presents a comPHOTO: IOANNIS VIDALIS Πανορµιτών κατά τους βαλκανικούς πολέµους, έργο του µεγάλου γλύπτη Μιplex flags, gun-fires, cannons and laurel branches, while on top there is χάλη of Κουσκουρή. Η βάση του µνηµείου, η οποία στηρίζεται σε its ντόπιες πέτρες, an eagle. Theένα village has a museum of ecclesiastical heirlooms a tavern. παρουσιάζει σύµπλεγµα από σηµαίες, τουφέκια, πυροβόλα καιand κλαδιά δάφνης, ενώ στην κορυφή του είναι τοποθετηµένος ένας περίτεχνος αετός. Στο χωριό υπάρχει µουσείο εκκλησιαστικών κειµηλίων και ταβέρνα. Venardados

ΦΩΤΟ:ΖΕΦΗ ΠΟΤΗΡΗ

Just before “Pyrgos”, we come across “Venardados” built amphiΒεναρδάδος theatrically, following the hill slopes, with old traditional houses, as well Λίγο πριν από τον Πύργο συναντάµε τον Βεναρδάδο χτισµένο αµφιθεαas the well. It has as a cathedra of «Saint John the Theologist», with a τρικά, σύµφωνα µε το επικλινές του εδάφους, µε σπίτια παλιά παραδοσιακά, marble and τον Άγιο Ιωάννη το Θεολόγο, µε µαρµάρινο καθώς καιchancel πηγάδι. screen, Έχει καθέδρα the byzantine icons made by τέµπλο, στο οποίο υπάρχουν Nicholas Gaitis, αγιογραφίες του icon Νίκουpainter Γαΐτη, and church “chanter”, whose ζωγράφου-αγιογράφου και ιεbirthplaceοisοποίος here. Down at ροψάλτη, κατάγεται από εδώ. Κάτω ρεµατιά, the ravine, hiddenστη among the κρυµµένο µέσα στις isφυλλωσιές tree foliage, there a chapel των δέντρων, βρίσκεται το εκof Saint Fanourios, where κλησάκι Αγίου people του from the Φανουρίου, nearby vilπου όταν γιορτάζει PHOTO: ZEFI POTIRI lages are drawn συγκεντρώto, on the

νεται κόσµος από τα γύρω χωday αλλά of itsκαιcelebration. Giannoulis Koulouris wasκατάγονται born here,ο as well as ριά, περαστικοί από όλο το νησί. Από εδώ Γιαννούλης Manolis Boulgaris, marble sculptors, LiliΒουλγαραίοι, Berde, balletµαρµαρογλύπτες, dancer of the Κουλουρής, ο Μανώλης Βούλγαρης καιand άλλοι Opera. In earlier times, a sewing school was operating, where girls from καθώς και η Λιλή Μπερδέ, χορεύτρια της Λυρικής Σκηνής. Παλιά λειτουργούσε Pyrgosραπτικής, also came to µαθήτευαν study. σχολή όπου κορίτσια και από τον Πύργο.

107 107


T he city ( “ C hor a ” ) a nd the vill a ges o f T inos

Marlas It is built on a slope viewing “Pyrgos”. In this beautiful and picturesque village, the parish church of Aghioi Anargyroi dominates the surroundings, distinguished for its artistic marble decoration, as well. Over the main entrance, the Saints with the cross in the middle and a snake wrapped around have been engraved on a marble slab, the only relief of this sort existing in Greece. At a short distance, a Mycenaen dome-shaped geometrical tomb has been discovered, while the Monastery of Kyra Xeni and Saint Thecla are placed further, in the peace and beauty of the arid and wild landscape. Formerly, laboratories of “talcum” and “flint stone” operated there. PHOTO: ZEFI POTIRI

108

Mamados It is the most remotely placed village of Tinos, with a view to the channel between Tinos and Andros. This small thorp is pure and clean, due to the winds blowing there. It is picturesque, with traditional white houses, flower gardens and alleys paved with slabs. The Association of Marlas-Mamados organizes interesting cultural events. PHOTO: IOANNIS VIDALIS

Ismael It is a derelict village near “Marlas”. The inhabitants that had been left took refuge to the villages “Marlas” and “Mamados”, while in 1968 the last resident left as well.


VILLAGES

Pyrgos The biggest village in Tinos and one of the oldest ones, owes its name to an old Venetian Castle (Pyrgos), which existed in the area and to which documents of the 16th century refer. It is surrounded by mountains and stands out for the picturesque and beautiful architecture, while it preserves the Tin-

PHOTO: ZEFI POTIRI

ian tradition unaltered. It is the birthplace of many great artists of Tinos and

the entire Greece as well: names as Giannoulis Halepas, D. Fillipotis, N. Lytras are mentioned here. The artistic tradition is obvious from the house architecture, the marble lintels, the numerous ornaments everywhere, even in the streets, the drinking fountains and the marvellous churches. The local sculptors, taking advantage of the privilege of the white and green marble deposits, which abound in the area, have carefully decorated the village, which could be considered an outdoor museum. The following places are worth visiting: The ÂŤArtists of PanormosÂť museum, the houses of Halepas and Lytras, the multitude of workshops of local sculptors, the unique square with the marble dinking fountain and the centenarian plane-tree and, finally, the impressive churches of Saint Nicholas and Saint Dimitrios with their delicate decoration.

109


PHOTO: ZEFI POTIRI

T he city ( “ C hor a ” ) a nd the vill a ges o f T inos

The village cemetery is of great interest with the amazing marble crafted gravestones, great artistic pieces of sculpture, and the School of Arts, the only one in Greece, while beside it was recently founded the museum of Marble Arts. «Pyrgos», even though remote, has all the necessities. With the traditional coffee houses all concentrated on the main square, but also all over the village, the bakery and many more stores, the village is an ideal destination for every visitor.

PHOTO: ZEFI POTIRI

110


VILLAGES

GIANNOULIS HALEPAS He was born in the beginning of the 1850-ies in «Pyrgos». His father was a marble sculptor and this contributed to his artistic inclination for the Art of Marble carving, from a very young age. After his apprenticeship at the Lyceum in Syros, and although his parents were destining him for a commercial career, he managed to persuade them to let him attend the Higher Academy of Figurative Arts in Athens, between the years 1869 and 1872. His performance surprised his professors; he soon got his degree as a sculptor with excellent grades and left the next year for the Higher Academy of Figurative Arts in Munich, on a scholarship by the Holly Foundation of the Annunciation of Tinos. When he returned to Athens, he rented a small ground floor store and set his lab. In this workshop he completed his work named «The Satyr playing with Love» and started working on his most famous sculpture, «The sleeping Lady» a monumental grave sculpture, still located outdoors, at the First cemetery of Athens. In 1878 he got a nervous breakdown and, as a result crushed a lot of his works, while he repeatedly tried to commit suicide. The first period of the artist’s work ends here, being the most creative and important. After visiting specialists in Greece and abroad, his relatives decided to put him in the psychiatric clinic of the Hospital in Corfu. During the several years he stayed there, the doctors and guards forbad him to draw and destroyed everything he created. The same happened when he was transferred to his home in Tinos, under the strict supervision of his mother, who din’t permit any contact with Art, neither coal nor clay, getting to the point of destroying his works. After her death, in 1916, and having been totally estranged from his Art, the artist becomes a shepherd, carrying the stigma of a lunatic. Nonetheless, he finds the power to create some pieces of work in clay. Due to the noise and commotion that several Art critics are making about his abandonment by the Government, he emerges from obscurity. In 1927, the Athens Academy rewards him with the blue ribbon of Arts. In 1930, the second period of his work, that reveals his disturbed psychological situation, is completed. The last years of his life he lived and started working again in the house that his niece had accorded to him in Dafnomili Street in Athens, where he lived until his death in 1938. The works of this third period are of lower value, in comparison to his previous artistic level.

111


112

T he city ( “ C hor a ” ) a nd the vill a ges o f T inos

Giannoulis Halepas belongs to the top sculptors of contemporary Greek Ar t. His work refers to classicism, but in the same time, their geometrical structure signifies something modernistic. The expressiveness of the faces and the bodies of the statues he creates, either being the «Satyr», or “Medea” or even his most famous one, “The sleeping beauty,” is noble, magnetizes every observer and places Halepas on the same level as Rodin.

NIKIFOROS LYTRAS In 1832, another great ar tist was born in «Pyrgos»; Nikiforos Lytras. He studied in Athens after his teacher’s encouragement, who detected his flair for painting. He attended the Higher School of Ar ts at the Athens Technical School and then, with a governmental scholarship he studied in Munich. His progress won the admiration of his teachers and he was offered a position as a Professor in the Munich Academy, which he turned down and returned to Greece. In 1866, he was assigned as a Professor of the Athens Higher School of Ar ts, where he taught for 38 years, until his death in 1904. He was loved by his students for his mild and genial character. He was appraised as much in his country as internationally, for his ar twork. He was the official por traitist of the Athens high society and with his ability to penetrate the character of his subjects, he enhances the personal elements of each person. His two travels to the East, along with his friend Ghizis, enriched his world with exotic figures of black people. Among his most impor tant pieces are; «The Christmas Carols», «The bather» and more.


VILLAGES

DIMITRIOS FILIPPOTIS He was born in «Pyrgos» in 1839 and had an excellent marble sculptor father. He studied in the Art Academy of Rome, where he was admired and prized by his teachers. After his return to Athens, he founded a marble workshop, where he created marvelous pieces, which today embellish Athens as well as other places. «The wood-cutter», inside the «Zappeio Mansion» park is one of the best ones. The honors that were denied him by the government when alive, even though graduates of the Athens Technical School were practicing in his workshop, were given to him after his death (1919) with the big prize of Literature and Arts.

JOHN GAITIS Born in 1923 in Athens with origins from «Pyrgos», John Gaitis, studied at the Higher School of Arts with teachers such as Konstantinos Parthenis and John Filippotis. While in Paris, he came across all the important artistic tendencies of the 20th century. Under the years 1944 - 1984, (when he died), he was really very productive, because he created over 4000 pieces or artwork and participated in many exhibitions. His «little people» with the char acteristic striped suits, appear first during the 60’s and they are established as the artist’s trademark. Monotonously repeated, clad in suits resembling bar-codes, they express the response of Gaitis to the mechanical rhythms of the modern society. The painter was widely acknowledged abroad. Several of his paintings are to be found all over the world and a copy of his work is placed today at a Metro station in Athens.

113


T he city ( “ ΤΑ C hor a ΚΑΙ ”) a the vill a ges o f T inos Η ΠΟΛΗ (ΧΩΡΑ), ΧΩΡΙΑ ΟΙnd ΟΙΚΙΣΜΟΙ ΤΗΣ ΤΗΝΟΥ

SCHOOL ARTS ΣΧΟΛΗ ΚΑΛΩΝOF ΤΕΧΝΩΝ

PHOTO: ZEFI POTIRI

PHOTO: IOANNIS VIDALIS

PHOTO: IOANNIS VIDALIS

ΦΩΤΟ: ΓΙΑΝΝΗΣ ΒΙ∆ΑΛΗΣ

ΦΩΤΟ: ΓΙΑΝΝΗΣ ΒΙ∆ΑΛΗΣ

It was founded in the middle of the past century in the village of «Pyrgos»,Ιδρύθηκε birthplace many artists, with the purpose training students in σταofµέσα τουgreat περασµένου αιώνα στον Πύργο,ofτην ιδιαίτερη πατρίδα marble carving. The graduates have the opportunity to continue their studies πολλών µεγάλων καλλιτεχνών µε σκοπό την κατάρτιση των µαθητών στη µαρµαροin the Higher Schoolέχουν of Arts Athens, while the best two of them,τους achieving τεχνία. Οι απόφοιτοι τη inδυνατότητα να συνεχίσουν τις σπουδές στην the best scores, enter without exams. Ανωτάτη Σχολή Καλών Τεχνών της Αθήνας, ενώ οι δύο µε την καλύτερη βαθµολογία Being unique, attracts students from all over Greece. The studies last εισάγονται σ’ αυτήν itχωρίς εξετάσεις. threeΜοναδική years and the courses taught are sculpture, painting, marble carving, στο είδος της προσελκύει µαθητές από όλη την Ελλάδα. Η φοίτηση free-hand drawing, Art history and composition. The graduates can work as είναι τριετής και τα µαθήµατα που διδάσκονται είναι γλυπτική, ζωγραφική, µαρµαροfree-lancers in their workshops or in reconstructive works in archeological γλυπτική, γραµµικό σχέδιο, ιστορία τέχνης και έκθεση. Οι απόφοιτοι µπορούν να sites (such as Parthenon et.al.) The Pan-Hellenic Sacred Foundation of Virgin εργάζονται ως ελεύθεροι επαγγελµατίες στα εργαστήριά τους ή στις αναστηλωτικές Mary in Tinos (P.I.I.E.T) played and still plays a very important role for the εργασίες σε αρχαιολογικούς χώρους (π.Χ. Ακρόπολη). Το Π.Ι.Ι.Ε.Τ. έπαιξε και παίζει School of Arts from its start until today, supporting it financially as well as καθοριστικό ρόλο από την ίδρυση της Σχολής µέχρι σήµερα ενισχύοντάς την οικοsubsidizing the students’ meals. Besides that, other local institutions support νοµικά καθώςsuch και τους σπουδαστές οι of οποίοι σιτίζονται Εκτόςthe αυτού και the School, as the “Fraternity Tinian people δωρεάν. in Athens”, former άλλοι τοπικοί παράγοντες Σχολή, όπως η Αδελφότητα των Τηνίων εν «Panormos» Municipalityενισχύουν and theτηborough of Xomburgo (nowadays inteΑθήναις, η κοινότητα Πανόρµου και ο ∆ήµος Εξωµβούργου. grated to Tinos Municipality). In the beginning, the School belonged to the Αρχικά στο Υπουργείο Παιδείας και Θρησκευµάτων, σήµερα υπάγεGreek Stateανήκε Education and Religion Ministry, while today ενώ it belongs to the ται στο Υπουργείο Πολιτισµού, το οποίο την επιχορηγεί σε ετήσια βάση. Ministry of Culture, which sponsors it every year.

ΦΩΤΟ: ΖΕΦΗ ΠΟΤΗΡΗ

114 114


VILLAGES

Panormos It comprises the seaport of «Pyrgos». This sea port village, built near a natural bay and beside a little lake, is located at the north side of Tinos. With the island «Planitis» in the centre of the port, it was considered one of the biggest ports of the island during the past centuries, as witnessed by the abandoned lighthouse on «Planitis». (Today efforts are being made for its preservation). The transit trade of «Exo Meria» was being conducted through this port. Today, there are only small fisher boats and ketches, as well as touristic crafts. It is a beloved destination for both the visitors and the locals, because it combines picturesque beaches on either side of the port (Aghia Thalassa (Saint Sea), Kavalourko, Rohari and others) with the unique coffee shops and taverns offering fresh sea food. That is the reason why it is considered one of the best touristic seaside resorts of Tinos. PHOTO: IOANNIS VIDALIS

115


PHOTO: ZEFI POTIRI


T he C hurch o f V irgin M a ry ’ s Annunci a tion

Sights Αξιοθέατα

www.tinos360.gr www.tinos360.gr

117 117


118

S ights

The Church of Virgin Mary’s Annunciation The first thing one comes across when arriving at the port of Tinos on a boat, is the bell-tower of the church of Virgin Mary’s Annunciation and the marvelous church, dominating the image of the hill above the town. It comprises a lifetime destination for many Christian Orthodox believers and a beloved one for those interested in Religion, Art and History. This church is directly connected with the history of Tinos, as well as the island’s economy and tourism. Its architecture fallows the island’s tradition with strong influences from PHOTO: ARISTEIDES KONTOGEORGIS


T he C hurch o f V irgin M a ry ’ s Annunci a tion

both the West and the East. It has been built on the ruins of an Early Christian church, dedicated to Saint John Prodromos, where an ancient sacred temple in honor of God Dionyssos already existed. The church of Virgin Mary is a vast two-floor building, that houses the main Sanctuary on the upper floor and many other outbuildings incorporated to its yard. It has three aisles, with the middle one broadened and elevated, distinguished from the lateral ones by colonnades. Above the main entrance of the church, anyone can see a marble lintel with the two vivid archangels and between them, the engraved inscription of the creators’ names.

119


120

S ights

The miraculous icon of the Annunciation is located on the left side, when entering the church. It is placed on a marble shrine. The wooden icon, ÂŤwoundedÂť by a previous fire, but also broken into two pieces by the axe of the worker during its finding, seems brilliant, covered almost entirely by rich adornments and dedications by the first pilgrims. Among the ornaments, the faces of Virgin Mary and the archangel Gabriel can be distinguished. Some believers maintain that the icon was created by the Evangelist

Lucas,

while

other researchers date it later. From an identical copy, we know that the scene of the Annunciation is portrayed with the angel offering the lily on the left and Virgin Mary kneeling with devotion, on the right. The church is filled with oblations left by innumerous believers, with which they expressed their prayers and their gratitude for the miracles that Virgin Mary had performed. Among those, the silver orange tree, distinguished on the right of the entrance, representing a tree that a blind man saw when healed by the Virgin Mary, the ship with a fish stuck in a hole on its craft, thus helping it from sinking, dedicated by the captain and many others that can be observed hanging from the ceiling.


T he C hurch o f V irgin M a ry ’ s Annunci a tion

All these, along with the remaining decorations, the artifacts of sober beauty and the gilded chancel screen, the pulpit and the bishop’s artistic throne contribute to the admiration by each and every visitor. Under the main Sanctuary there is the one of the Life-giving Source. Here, the pilgrim can get holy water from the source that was discovered together with the Icon and soil from the place that the icon was found. In the buildings surrounding the yard, offices, museums and other services of the foundation and the visitors’ needs are PHOTO: ZEFI POTIRI housed. Furthermore, in the yard there is the bottle-fountain, a donation from a Muslim, who attributed his cure to Virgin Mary. The imposing bell-tower was erected beside the church. Its base is made of stone and it rises 30 meters high, with three marble lanterns. This sublime bell tower was created by John Filippotis, based on a project designed by Anastasios Orlandos. Its bells resound in the entire Town and the villages around and it comprises the landmark of the Virgin Mary compound and the Capital as well, because it is the first PHOTO: ZEFI POTIRI thing the visitor sees from the boat upon arrival.

121


122

S ights

THE FINDING OF THE HOLY ICON In the beginning of the 19th century, at the monastery of «Kehrovouni», there was a nun named Pelaghia. She had the dream of Virgin Mary telling her about where they should dig to find Her Icon. This dream was repeated three times until the nun was convinced and applied to the authorities, which organized the search for the Icon. After some unsuccessful results, they abandoned the quest, but after the plague hit the island, they resumed the works, with greater eagerness. Digging at the substructure of an old Christian church in order to build a new one, on sanctification day, (01/01/1823) water sprang from a dry well in the area, a fact that was considered as a miracle. The new temple was dedicated to the Life-giving Source. While the works for the finding of the icon continued, on the 30th of January, the axe of a laborer from the village «Falatados» hit the Icon, breaking it in two pieces, leaving the images of Virgin Mary and the archangel unscratched. The joy-bringing message of the finding spread all over revolutionary Greece and the believers came to worship and to offer financial support for the construction of Her church, giving their valuables as dedications, while the works continued. Among the first pilgrims were the heroes of the war of Independence, Kolokotronis, Makrygiannis, Miaoulis, Kanaris and more. THE «LITTLE LANTERNS» It is a custom that takes place every year on the 30th of January in Tinos town, celebrating the anniversary of the Icon finding. The celebration with people gathering from every corner of the island, relives the day the Holy Icon was discovered and the news about its finding were spread. The people started coming, bearing lit lanterns in order to worship the Icon of Virgin Mary. Since then, in the evening of January 30th the city brass band, the students of every school level, but also small children and adults of every age, each holding a lantern, gather around the church. These little lanterns are especially hand-crafted usually by the children themselves, using wooden sticks and colorful transparent membrane. Everybody starts from the church of Virgin Mary and, while marching through the narrow alleys, chant joyous songs referring to this big celebration of Tinos, such as: PHOTO: EVELYN FOSKOLOU


T he C hurch o f V irgin M a ry ’ s Annunci a tion

«Come and gather here, Tinian people , to celebrate the finding of our Virgin Mary Icon and let us all praise Her Grace»

PHOTO: EVELYN FOSKOLOU

Forerunners are the clergy and the Authorities of Tinos and the Cyclades, followed by a crowd from all over the island, as well as visitors. They all meet at «Pantanassa» square, while fireworks light the sky and the boats blast. From the marble platform of the square, wishful speeches are given and this joyful event ends with a sumptuous treat by the Municipality of Tinos.

THE GREEK HOLY FOUNDATION OF THE ANNUNCIATION OF TINOS The G.H.F.A.T is a legal entity of Public Equity, under the surveillance of the Ministry of Education and Religion. It is being run by a ten member committee presided by the Bishop of Syros -Tinos. Its income comes from private contributions, endowments, ritual rights, oblation sales and real estate income (rents). The activities endorsed by the Foundation until now are varied and of great importance. In particular, it sustains a multitude of National, Educational, Charitable, Religious, Social and Cultural activities. Those include: the care of thousands of refugees during troubled times in the past, the dispensation of valuables to the Government during periods of war, the founding, financial support and enhancement of schools, the scholarships to locals with important achievements, the help to the poor, sick and elderly, the subsidizing of city infrastructure and many more. PHOTO: ZEFI POTIRI

123


124

S ights

THE 15TH OF AUGUST The biggest celebration of Tinos and one of the biggest in the Orthodox Faith is the celebration of the “Virgin Mary Assumption Day” on the 15th of August. For a long time, the whole island and its people prepare for this day. In the afternoon of the eve, the church is crowded with devotees inside the Virgin Mary court, as well as outside, on the pavement of “Megalohari Street”, who listen to the hymn: «When alive, you kept your virginity, after your death you haven’t abandoned the world...» All night the chanting and the bells bond with the invocations of desperate people praying to Her. When it dawns on the day of the great religious feast, the place is so crowded, that it is quite impossible not merely to enter the church, but also to get close to its surroundings, in the streets, the square, the port and wherever the procession passes from. After the Big Mass being celebrated in the church in a solemn and moving atmosphere, the procession starts parading towards the «Pantanassa» square.


T he C hurch o f V irgin M a ry ’ s Annunci a tion

It is accompanied by both the Church and the Navy brass bands playing. The Holy Icon is carried by soldiers of the Greek Navy, followed by the whole clergy, State and local authority representatives and private citizens. As the holy procession heads to the port, the people are elbowing each other in order to get into the middle of the street, so that the Icon passes above them and they get the opportunity to touch It and beg for miracles to happen. Along with the chanting and the music, you can hear desperate people’s voices, begging and invoking the mercy of the Mother of Jesus, but also happy voices of gratitude for the miracles that happened to them. At the marble platform square, “Te Deum” is being held and speeches are being given by religious and political representatives. Afterwards, an honorary boat with a State representative reaches the sea-spot where the cruiser «Elli» sunk in 1940, torpedoed by an Italian submarine, in order to pay honors to the lost crew members. In conclusion, the Icon returns back to the church the same way, leaving behind both awe and hope for every soul.

125


ΦΩΤΟ: ΓΙΑΝΝΗΣ ΒΙ∆ΑΛΗΣ

PHOTO: IOANNIS VIDALIS

126 126 S ights Α ΡΧΑΙΟΛΟΓΙΚΟΙ ΧΩΡΟΙ


KIONIA

Archaeological sites

www.tinos360.gr

127


128

ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITES

KIONIA - TINOS «Kionia» is considered as one of the most important places of worship of the ancient Greeks, coinciding with the foundation and prosperity of the ancient «Town» of Tinos, from the 4th century BC and on. It comprises the only place in the Cyclades that is exclusively dedicated to Poseidon, the sea-god. According to archaeological sources, during ancient times, the god was worshiped equally as a doctor. Furthermore, there is documentation about an increasing adoration concerning doctors, who were considered as heroes. At the end of the 4th century BC, the successors of Alexander the Great and mainly the royal families named Antigonides and Lagides, hold the fate of the Cyclades in their hands and organize building programs, in which the Sanctuary of Poseidon in Kionia might have been included. A proof of the sanctuary’ s influence might be the eight-ray star that decorates the panel of the roof of the drinking fountain, a beloved theme in Macedonia, found in the tomb of King Philip, as well. Some evidence of pre-historical presence was found in the western area of the Sanctuary, without evidence of any continuity. It is confirmed that the sanctuary was founded in the middle of the 4th century BC, when the first signs of worship in the area are dated. Under the same period, the borough and the administration headquarters were transferred from «Xomburgo» to the present town of Tinos, while at the end of the same century, the first monumental buildings appear in the area of «Kionia».

PHOTO: ARISTEIDES KONTOGEORGIS


KIONIA

Before its foundation, another Sanctuary existed there already, built inside a garden. It is said that sailors and travelers prayed there to placate the sea god and have a good voyage on their way to the sacred island of nearby Delos, the destination of their pilgrimage. The reconstruction of the famous temple of Poseidon and Amphitrite, as we mentioned above, is dated to the middle of the 4th century BC. Its order is Doric, rigorous and simple, except for an original touch, like the drinking fountain-platform, owed to the Tinian inspiration. The building materials used are entirely local and among them are found gneiss and marble in different colors. Sculptors from several places were invited to decorate the Sanctuary, such as Telesinos from Athens, Agasias from Ephesus, while the Macedonian Andronicus from Kyristos constructed a great solar clock (it is now in the island’s archeological museum). The building program of the end of the 2nd century BC, which included imposing buildings like the great arcade and the monumental altar, coincides with the big economic growth of the Cyclades, when Delos became a free port and many foreigners, mainly Italians, settled down there. Limited building activity is detected during the Roman rule, after a period of decline.

129


130

ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITES

By the middle of the 1st century BC, though, the old splendor vanishes and, in the middle of the 3rd century AC, the Sanctuary is abandoned. The problems of the Roman Empire, in addition to the invasions of the “Erouls”, that destroyed Athens in 267/8 AC, put an end to a history of six centuries. A ceramic oven operated for a while, amidst the ruins. It seems that the Sanctuary was only a wreck, where only those who sought ready-to-use building material hang around, in order to use it elsewhere. The Temple’s fame can be confirmed by the historian “Strabo”, referring to it as «massive and worth seeing», but also from the wide range of its fame, that exceeded the borders of the Greek world and reached Italy and Asia Minor. In this Sanctuary, festivals were also organized in honor of the god, the well known «Poseidonia» and «Poseidia» (in January-February). Many people came from all over Greece, theatrical competitions took place and lamb sacrifices were made. On account of some descriptions and excavations of the Temple, we learn that the statues of Poseidon and Amphitrite were placed in the Sanctuary. Under the same period, the worship of Amphitrite, Poseidon’s wife, was also established. She was worshiped for her curative powers applied to women who couldn’t conceive. This Sanctuary had a healing fame, equal to that of Asclepius in Epidaurus, so ailing people wishing to be cured visited it, trusting its beneficial powers. Furthermore it’s a fact that the environment where it was built -in a garden by the sea- favored their cure. The temple priests, in addition to their other tasks, performed operations on the patients, as well. The worship of this Sanctuary lasted until the 4th century AC, when Christianity, the new religion, was established and the Greek


KIONIA

Dodecatheon was renounced. After the end of the Sanctuary’s worship, many of its building elements were used by locals for house and church constructions. The gardens were used as well, for banquettes. The final destruction of the Temple happened during the Venetian and Turkish eras, when the captors took advantage of everything that had remained at the place, i.e. statues, columns and other parts, for constructing churches and other buildings. From the excavations of the Belgian archeologists H. Demoulin and P. Graindor in the beginning of last century, (1903 and 1905) the remains of the Temple, the drinking fountain, the statues, the mosaics and the Andronicus famous solar-clock were discovered. Some of these findings are currently exhibited at the Archeological museum of Tinos.

PHOTO: ARISTEIDES KONTOGEORGIS

131


132

ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITES

XOMBURGO The rock of Xomburgo is located at a height of 640 m and dominates the middle of the southern part of the island. It is a landmark of Tinos, welcoming visitors when the boat reaches the port of «Chora». It is directly connected to the lives and safety of the inhabitants, due to its natural entrenchment. Its history starts from the ancient years, but we will only refer to the evidences found by documentation and excavations. The first signs of human settlement go back to the Copper period, when the Cyclopean wall is built in Xomburgo. This fact indicates that until then, the previous main settlement in the area «Vriocastro» ceased being safe, probably due to invasions from the sea. Consequently its inhabitants are forced to seek a safer shelter. Dwelling on this rocky hill continues through the Dark Ages and the Geometric period. The cemetery outside the walls, which came into light by the


XO M BU R G O

Professor of Archaeology Mrs Nota Kourou, is a common phenomenon, during that period of time. The fire-holes in the area are dated to the same period (10th-7th century BC), while the Sanctuary of the Great Goddess and Daughter, is being traced back to the archaic period. Its worship was subject to the cultural conditions of that era and the Dodecatheon (twelvegod) cult. The Temple was dedicated to goddess Dimitra (Ceres) and her daughter, Persephone.The safety and peace that prevailed in the Aegean Sea during the Classic years, gave the opportunity to the island inhabitants to abandon Xomburgo and found a coastal city. The rock will lapse into obscurity until the Byzantine years, when it will be inhabited once more, reaching its climax. Incursions and continuous invasions made local inhabitants within and around the granite rock reunite, establishing a capital in the area of the present village of ÂŤXynaraÂť. PHOTO: ZEFI POTIRI

133


A ΡR Χ CΑ H ΙAΟE Λ OΟ LO E SΙ Α ΓG Ι ΚI C Ο AΙ LΧ SΩI T ΡΟ

µαζευτούν απόAndreas το γρανιτένιο βράχο, αρχικά πρωτεύουIn 1207,ξανά the γύρω brothers and Jeremiah Ghizi ιδρύοντας captured Tinos. One σαtheir στηνfirst περιοχή τουwas σηµερινού Ξυνάρα. of moves to erectχωριού fortifications and entrench the rock, making Το 1207 τηνThe Τήνο κατέλαβαν οι αδελφοί Ιερεµίας Από it a stronghold. «Castle of Saint Helen» Ανδρέας as it wasκαι called, tookΓκίζη. its name τις πρώτες τους κινήσεις ήταν να οχυρώσουν βράχο χτίσουν of φρούfrom the homonymous chapel on its peak. το Until the και lastναoffspring the ριο. Το «Κάστρο της Αγίας Ελένης», όπως ονοµάστηκε, πήρε την ονοµασία Ghizi family in 1390, the castle of Tinos was famous for its entrenchment του από οµώνυµο εκκλησάκιtoπου του. was Μέχριfollowed και τον and the το safety that provided theυπήρχε people.στην Theκορυφή Ghizis’ rule τελευταίο απόγονο των Γκίζηδων, το 1390, το κάστρο της Τήνου φηµιζόταν by the Venetian Democracy and, after the locals made a pact not to subjuγια την οχύρωσή to τουthe καιTurkish την ασφάλεια που παρείχε στο λαό.was Τους Γκίζηδες gate themselves dominance, a Commander appointed διαδέχτηκε η Βενετική ∆ηµοκρατία και, έπειτα από συνεννόηση µε τους bearing the title of «Rector of Tinos and Mykonos». In 1537, Hayreddin ντόBarπιους ώστε να µην περιέλθουν σταbehalf χέρια of τωνthe Τούρκων, ορίστηκε διοιbarossa conquered Tinos, for the Sultan. Tinos roseένας in revolt, κητής µεthe τον τίτλο τουback. «Ρέκτορα Τήνου Μυκόνου».” Το 1537 οthe Χαϊρεντίν asking Venetians This way “LaκαιSerenissima, retrieved island, Μπαρµπαρόσσα κατέλαβε για λογαριασµό την Τήνο, οποία, which was the Venetians’ only dominion του left Σουλτάνου in the Cyclades. The ηfortress όµως,rebuilt επαναστάτησε ζητώντας και πάλι Έτσι, η Γαληνοτάτη επαwas to become stronger thanτους everΒενετούς. and, according to the building νέκτησε το νησί, το οποίο αποτέλεσε τη µοναδική τηςside στιςofΚυκλάδες. conditions prevailing during the 16th και century AC, theκτήση NE-SE the rock Το φρούριο ξαναχτίστηκε πιο δυνατό από ποτέ και σύµφωνα µε τη σύγχρονη was used as a natural fortification. Consequently, only the sides of the castle ου δόµηση backing, στα µέσαwhere του 16the αιtown µ.Χ. was Η ΒΑ-ΝΑ πλευρά του βράχου ήταν φυσικά needed built. The documentation reveals that οχυρωµένη. Εποµένως, ενίσχυση χρειαζόταν µόνο η πλευρά της πλαγιάς, όπου there were about 100 buildings, houses and stores, as well as two churches ήταν χτισµένη η πόλη. Οι πληροφορίες δίνουν περίπου 100 σπίτιαwith και in Borgo (thorp outside the castle). Most inhabitants wereκτίρια, occupied καταστήµατα, καθώς και δυο εκκλησίες στο Borgo (=οικισµός έξω από το κάagriculture, as the castle comprised, apart from a shelter, also the main στρο).Οι στην πλειονότητά τους ασχολούνταν µε τη γεωργία, αφού market ofκάτοικοι the island. το κάστρο αποτελούσε, εκτός από καταφύγιο, και την κεντρική αγορά όλου

ΦΩΤΟ: ΖΕΦΗ ΠΟΤΗΡΗ

134 134

PHOTO: ZEFI POTIRI


PHOTO: ARISTEIDES KONTOGEORGIS

XO M BU R G O 135


136 136

A ΡR Χ CΑ H ΙAΟE Λ OΟ LO E SΙ Α ΓG Ι ΚI C Ο AΙ LΧ SΩI T ΡΟ

του The νησιού. 600 wall περίπου µέτραa του περιλάµβαναν ΝΑ 600Τα m long included: highτείχους tower named Tower A, orένα the ψηλό «half πύργο, Α το αποκαλούµενο «µισοφέγγαρο», Α-ΒΑ το κεντρικό οχύρωµα, ΒΑ moon» at the SE side, the main entrenchment in the E-NE, a high square ένα ψηλό τετράγωνο πύργο (“La Punta”), και Β∆ τη δευτερεύουσα πύλη, απ’ tower («La Punta») in the NE and finally, in the NW side, the secondary όπου εισέρχονταν στο κάστρο οι κάτοικοι και τα ζώα σε περίπτωση πολιορκίgate, where the inhabitants and the animals could go in, in case of a siege. ας. Η ζωή µέσα στο κάστρο ήταν στενόχωρη, καθώς οι δρόµοι ήταν στενοί και The living conditions inside the tower were congested and uncomfortable, στα σπίτια µετά βίας χωρούσαν δυο άτοµα. Οι κάτοικοι του κάστρου κυµαίνοas the roads were narrow and the houses could barely accommodate 2 νταν στους 1000-2000. people. The ο inhabitants of the castle were about 1000 - 2000. In the 17th Το 17 αι οι κάτοικοι δεν ξεπερνούσαν τους 800, από τους οποίους µόνο century, the inhabitants exceed αποτελούσαν 800, of which γυναικόπαιδα only the 200 were men. οι 200 ήταν άνδρες. Τηνdidn’t πλειονότητα και ηλικιωThe majority consisted of women, children and elderly people. Apart from µένοι. Εκτός από τους άντρες και οι γυναίκες του νησιού ήταν φηµισµένες για men, women were contribution to the life and τη συµβολή τους στηequally ζωή καιrenowned συντήρησηfor τουtheir Κάστρου. Το κάστρο ΤήνουThe άντεξε σε of πολλές Σαρακινών, maintenance of της the castle. castle Tinos επιδροµές: withstood many attacksΤούρfrom κων, ∆υτικών κ.α. Το 1715-42 έγινε η τελευταία επιδροµή, η οποία ήταν και Saracens,Turks and Westerners. In 1715-42, the last catastrophic invasion ocκαταστροφική. ειδική συνθήκη µεταξύ τωνbetween διοικητών νησιού και curred. With a Με special convention accorded theτου governors of των the Τούρκων, το νησί περιήλθε στους τελευταίους, οι οποίοι φρόντισαν να καταisland and the Turks, the island fell into the hands of the latter, who managed στρέψουν ολοσχερώς το κάστρο. Έτσι, το «Φρούριο της Αγίας Ελένης», έπειτα to destroy the castle completely.The “Fort of Saint Helen” succumbed after από 508 χρόνια πέφτει. Οι κάτοικοι, όσοι δε µετακόµισαν στη νεοσύστατη 508 years. Χώρα, εγκαταστάθηκαν σε χωριά, εγκατέλειψαν το νησί ή µάταια προσπάθη-

ΦΩΤΟ: ΖΕΦΗ ΠΟΤΗΡΗ

PHOTO: ZEFI POTIRI


XO M BU R G O

PHOTO: PHOTO: IOANNIS IOANNIS VIDALIS VIDALIS

The inhabitants who didn’t move to the emerging new city of «Chora», settled in villages or abandoned the island. Those still remaining tried to settle in the abandoned «Borgo», but to no avail. It was then that “Exomburgo” or “Xomburgo” got its current name (it was called “the Castle” before), based on the Italian word «sobborgo» meaning suburb. The settlement «died» in the beginning of the 20th century.Today, Xomburgo attracts many visitors and invites them to walk through its forgotten historical roads and ruins. It is the believers who take care of the maintenance of the chapel of Saint Minas and Saint Eleousa, old church. The Monastery of the «Holy Heart of Jesus» has a long history, going back to the 17th century, that will be narrated below.

137


PHOTO:ΓΙΑΝΝΗΣ IOANNISΒΙ∆ΑΛΗΣ VIDALIS ΦΩΤΟ:

138 138

AR OLOGICAL SITES Μ ΟCΥHΣ AΕ EΙ Α


THE ARCHEOLOGICAL MUSEUM

Museums

www.tinos360.gr

139


MUSEUMS

140

PHOTO: ZEFI POTIRI

THE ARCHEOLOGICAL MUSEUM The archeological museum is located in the heart of the Town, at the central road that leads to the church of Virgin Mary and no passer-by can ignore it. It was built in the beginning of the 60’s with the initiative of the Archeological Society. In this museum, marvelous and considerable collections of archeological findings are exposed, from all over the island. The most important collections worthy of visiting are: the big and unique ceramic jars, that were discovered inside the famous Sanctuary of Goddess Ceres and her daughter, at the foothill of Xomburgo, dating back to the “archaic period” (8th- 7th century BC), statues and architectural parts from Poseidon’s and Amphitrite’s Temple in «Kionia», Andronicus solar clock, which is one of the most important findings of this temple (1st century BC), a beautiful mosaic floor that was found in the district of Virgin Mary, coins from several periods and various other archeological findings. PHOTO: ZEFI POTIRI


THE ARCHEOLOGICAL MUSEUM

PHOTO: ZEFI POTIRI

The building is going to be expanded, in order to exhibit more collections that now are placed in the museum’s storage room, a fact that will make it even more significant. The ticket price of the museum is symbolic, and the staff always ready to inform every visitor.

PHOTO: ZEFI POTIRI

141


MUSEUMS

PORTRAIT GALLERY The portrait gallery is housed in a wide space in the precinct of Virgin Mary’s church. It includes more than 100 paintings, both authentic and copies, by many famous painters from Tinos and elsewhere, such as: N. Lytras, G. Iakovidis, N. Ghyzis, K. Parthenis, I. Altamouras, K. Volonakis, G. Roilos. Fur-

PHOTO: IOANNIS VIDALIS

142

thermore, in this area, some “cinquecento”- (Italian fifteenth century) paintings from Italy and the Ionian islands are exhibited. In addition to these, the visitor can admire several objects of European Art like vases, furniture, a fabulous mirror and other objects of great value.

MUSEUM OF TINIAN ARTISTS The museum of Tinian artists is located in the forecourt of the church of the Annunciation. It includes representative samples of the artworks of Tinian artists. There are remarkable paintings and sculptures, as well as authentic works and copies. Among the artists that have created the paintings are; N. Ghizis, Nikiforos, Nicholas and Pericles Lytras, G. Roilos, M. Renieris, G. Gaitis, while there are also sculptures and reliefs made by G. Halepas, L. Sohos, D. Filippotis, G.Vitalis, Lazarus and Marcus Fitalis and I.Voulgaris.


virgin m a ry ’ s museums

ECCLESIASTICAL HEIRLOOM AND ICON EXHIBITION It is housed in one of the rooms of theVirgin Mary church’s forecourt. It includes many ecclesiastical objects from the island, mainly icons from the 14th-19th century, as well as the Rigas Fereos map (one of the three authentic that have been saved) and the ring of KolokotPHOTO: IOANNIS VIDALIS ronis. There are also woodcuts of the Tinian artist Ioannis Platis. In conclusion, the collection has paintings of famous artists such as F. Kontoglou and N. Lytras. PHOTO: IOANNIS VIDALIS

AMBRY It is placed on the eastern side of the Virgin Mary’s church. It contains many important sacred objects, like valuable bibles, icons, crosses, priestly vests, communion cups and even elephant tusks.

ELLI’S MAUSOLEUM Beside the church of the finding of the Annunciation, there is the so called mausoleum of Elli. Here, along with the commemorative marble relief representing victory, parts of the Italian torpedo that hit the Greek warship Elli, some ship objects and the victims’ bones are kept.

THE MUSEUM OF ANTONY SOHOS It is housed inside the Virgin Mary’s church enclosure. The wooden and plaster engravings of the Tinian Academy member are exposed there. PHOTO: ZEFI POTIRI

143


144

MUSEUMS

MARBLE SCULPTING MUSEUM This modern museum, which the Cultural Foundation of the Bank of Piraeus has created in 2007, is one of the most interesting museums on the island and the first of its kind in Greece. It is located in the village of «Pyrgos», beside the renowned School of Marble Art and it is housed in a modern building, according to the public’s modern demands, integrating it very well with the Tinian landscape. Here, the visitor can wander about and be guided through the circle of life of the marble. From the quarries where it is extracted to the workshop and the creation of artworks, we can follow and understand the whole procedure, through representations and audio-visual material on the extraction, the elaboration, the use of several tools and, in the end the transformation from an amorphous clump into different artistic artifacts. For the museum’s needs, several of the island’s authentic marble sculptures are exhibited, modern and old, due Source: Piraeus Bank Foundation to citizens’ and authorities’ donations such as; architectural parts, lintels, as well as artworks’ rough drafts created by some famous local sculptors.

KOSTAS TSOKLIS MUSEUM Kostas Tsoklis museum is newly founded and situated in the village of Kambos. The collection exhibited includes much more than just K. Tsoklis’ work. There is a collection of the artist’s private files, exhibition catalogues, books, photographs and the like. Visitors can daily enjoy extracts of his TV and radio shows in a specially equipped room. This museum is mainly designed to expose Tsoklis’ art, so that the wide public becomes familiar with this particular artist’s work. Moreover, there is a wide range of side activities held at this museum, such as an art library, a series of lectures by art historians and well known academic personalities, authors and theater playwrights, as well as a series of creative workshops for children, teenagers and adults.


145

MUSEUM OF ARTISTS FROM «PANORMOS» It is housed in a building at the entrance of the village of «Pyrgos», beside the house of Giannoulis Halepas. Here, sculptures and reliefs made by artists from «Panormos» are exhibited, such as; G. Halepas, D. Filippotis, Eur. Lambaditis, I. Voulgaris, L. Lukas, G. Vitalis, L. Sohos and more. Indeed, some of works are the authentic rough versions of marble masterpieces, where sometimes you can detect the marks carved by the artists. PHOTO: ZEFI POTIRI

THE HOUSE-MUSEUM OF GIANNOULIS HALEPAS The house of the famous Tinian sculptor, in the village of «Pyrgos», has been transformed into a museum. Here, apart from the area where the artist lived and created, the family photos, the furniture and the household utensils that he used, the visitor can also see and admire sculptures of his. PHOTO: ZEFI POTIRI

MUSEUM OF ARTISTS FROM «YSTERNIA» In this museum that is placed in the village «Ysternia», artworks of the local artists are exhibited, like: the Fytali brothers, Malakates, G. Vitalis, Lazarus and Anthony Sohos, L. Lameras and more. There are several other museums in some villages of Tinos, containing artistic, folkloristic, ecclesiastic, agricultural as well as many other kinds of exhibits worth visiting, with the purpose of discovering the tradition, art and culture of the island (see the description of Tinian villages).


ΦΩΤΟ: ΖΕΦΗ ΠΟΤΗΡΗ

PHOTO: ZEFI POTIRI

146 ΜΟΝΑΣΤΗΡΙΑ


147

Abbeys Μοναστήρια

www.tinos360.gr www.tinos360.gr


AB SΤΗΡΙΑ Μ ΟBΝE ΑY Σ

ΤοThe µοναστήρι τηςof«Κυρίας των Αγγέλων» Convent the «Angels’ Lady» στο«Kehrovouni», Κεχροβούνι Τήνου on Tinos According to the local tradition, three sisters from the village of Κατά τη ντόπια τρεις αδελφές από το χωριό Τριπόταµος είδαν «Tripotamos» saw παράδοση, the same dream: a lady (Virgin Mary) was telling them to το ίδιο µια monastic γυναίκα (ηvows, Παναγία) τους υποδείκνυε να κτίσουν build anόνειρο-όραµα: convent and take in a specific place on the mounµοναστήρι και να µονάσουν σε could συγκεκριµένο σηµείοlight. στοAfter όροςcontroversies Κεχροβούνι, tain «Kehrovouni», where they see a strange εκεί όπου έβλεπαν παράλληλα ένα περίεργο φως. Έπειτα απόthe αντιπαραθέσεις with the rest of their family, they finally decided to obey lady of their µε την υπόλοιπη οικογένειά τους, τελικά αποφάσισαν να υπακούσουν στηarea γυdream. Since the winds at that specific area were very strong and the ναίκα οράµατός τους. Επειδή, στο συγκεκριµένο σηµείο οι άνεµοι full of του snakes, they attempted to όµως, build their cells a little bit further to the ήταν πολύ ισχυροί και η περιοχή γεµάτη φίδια, επιχείρησαν να χτίσουν τα κελιά south. However, although they tried hard, the new built cells were ruined τους λίγο όσο και να προσπαθούσαν, τα κελιά γκρεµίζονταν during theνοτιότερα. night and Όµως, the construction tools were mysteriously found at the κατά τη διάρκεια της νύχτας και τα εργαλεία βρίσκονταν στο αρχικό spot recommended initially. After they were convinced that they σηµείο should υπόδειξης. Μετά από αυτό πείστηκαν ότι έπρεπε να υπακούσουν στις αρχικές obey the holy command, they built three cells which afterwards comprised οδηγίες, και έχτισαν τρία κελιά, τα οποία µετέπειτα αποτέλεσαν τον πυρήνα the convent’ s centralταpoint. της Μονής. Due to the lack of reliable sources that could confirm this legend, it is Λόγω that έλλειψης πηγών που επιβεβαιώνουν παραδόσεις, estimated the convent wasναbuilt around the τις 10th-11th centuryυπολογίζεAC, even ο ο ται ότι η Μονή χτίστηκε γύρω στον 11 -12 αι. µ.Χ., αν και το πρώτο έγγραφο though the first document that refers to it is of the 17th century (possibly ου που την αναφέρει είναι του 17 αιώνα (πιθανότατα το 1614). Χτισµένη σε 1614). Built on an altitude of 600 m, clambered on the top of the mountain υψόµετρο 600 µέτρων, κορυφή του but βουνού, µε υπέροχη with a great view of theσκαρφαλωµένη Town and the στην villages of Tinos, also the Aegean θέα τη Χώρα και τα χωριά της Τήνου αλλά και το Αιγαίο πέλαγος τα γύρω and the islands around, this convent is a joy to every visitor and µε pilgrim. νησιά, δικαιώνει κάθε επισκέπτη και προσκυνητή της.

ΦΩΤΟ: ΖΕΦΗ ΠΟΤΗΡΗ

148 148

PHOTO: ZEFI POTIRI


PHOTO: IOANNIS VIDALIS

T he M on a stery o f the “ Angels ’ L a dy ”

149


ABBEYS

PHOTO: IOANNIS VIDALIS

150

Sister “Pelaghia” was one of the nuns of this Convent. One night, she saw a dream of Virgin Mary, indicating her the place where Her Icon was finally found, the one depicting Annunciation. After this incident, Tinos became the point of attraction for the Christians around the world. Nun Pelaghia was blessed by the or thodox church and was declared a Saint. Her remembrance is celebrated with a glorious ceremony in Tinos every year on the 23rd of July. In honor of the dreamer, the Annunciation Icon is escor ted with a religious procession to the Convent in the morning. A Holy Mass is celebrated in the convent church by high ranking priests, while the nuns are chanting. A reception is following for the believers and, in the afternoon of the same day, the Icon is returned to its original place, at the Annunciation church in «Chora». The returning procession back to the city is very grandiose, where the Bishop, the Tinian clergy, the abbess and the nuns, plus thousands of people par ticipate, following on foot. The Abbey risked being closed down repeatedly, like for example during the reign of king Otto and his Bavarian cour t, when he decreed the abolition of many Greek Abbeys and he actually succeeded in shutting down several ones. Never theless, the love and devotion of the Tinian people, the nuns and monks of the time, as well as the opposition of all devoted Christians, resulted not merely in the Abbey’s not closing, but, on the contrary, in


T he M on a stery o f the “ Angels ’ L a dy ”

its acquiring glory and fame all over the Christian world. Formerly, hundreds of nuns lived in the Abbey, but today their number has been reduced significantly, though it hasn’t stopped attracting both pilgrims and visitors. The Abbey of the «Angels’ Lady», apart from being a stronghold for the orthodox faith, is standing as a sample of traditional Tinian architecture, as well.With the narrow marble paved alleys, its many arches and its whiteness and simplicity, it is a characteristic example of a Tinian settlement. The only difference from the rest of the villages is that it is built within walls, as an entrenchment, while the Tinian thorps (in contrast to the rest of the Cycladic islands,) are spread freely in the Tinian countryside. Today, you can visit Saint Pelagia’s cell, which has been kept unaltered, worship her skull, but also wander around the alleys, enjoying the peace and the quiet, where only nature’s sounds are audible. The few nuns are always eager to give you a tour and talk about the abbey’s history but also to offer a simple treat to the travelers. It is worth mentioning that the Monastery contains a library with over 2000 books, which are many centuries old. Today the nuns pray, but also work to earn their living, like they did during the Byzantine years. With the marvelous needlework, other embroidery and herbs that they collect themselves, they try to preserve the Abbey, where they have lived until today, but also where the dreamer of Virgin Mary had lived.

PHOTO: IOANNIS VIDALIS

151


AB SΤΗΡΙΑ Μ ΟBΝE ΑY Σ

Το Μοναστήρι Καρδίας τουofΙησού Ξώµπουργο The monasteryτης of Ιεράς the Holy Heart Jesus στο in Xomburgo The Monastery of the Holy Heart of Jesus is considered one of the Το pilgrimages Μοναστήρι of τηςthe Ιεράς Καρδίας του Church. Ιησού θεωρείται από τα by µεγαλύbiggest Greek Catholic It was founded Jesuit τερα προσκυνήµατα της Ελλαδικής Καθολικής Εκκλησίας. Ιδρύθηκε από monks, who came to Tinos in the second half of the 17th century and τους setΙησουΐτες µοναχούς, Τήνο στοthey β΄ µισό του 17ου αιώtled in a house givenοιtoοποίοι them ήλθαν in the στην Castle, which transformed into να και εγκαταστάθηκαν σε σπίτι παραχωρήθηκε Κάστρο the church of Saint Sofia. After που the τους castle’ s capitulation µέσα to theστο Turks and που το µετέτρεψαν σε εκκλησία της Αγίας Σοφίας. Μετά την παράδοση του its destruction, the Jesuits settled in «Borgo» where in 1720-25 they built Κάστρου στους Τούρκους και την καταστροφή του, οι Ιησουΐτες εγκαθίσταa big church, beside the chapel of Saint Catherine, naming it the church νταιSaint στο Sofia, Μπόργκο, όπου χτίζουν ναό το περίπου, δίπλαthey στο of in memory of theµεγάλο first church in 1720-25 the Castle. In 1837-38, εκκλησάκι της Αγίας Αικατερίνης, το ναό της Αγίας Σοφίας, σε ανάµνηση του moved to the village of “Loutra” where, on their own property, they built πρώτου ναού του Κάστρου. Το 1837-38 µεταβαίνουν στα Λουτρά, και στο a Monastery and a church dedicated to Saint Joseph. At the end of the ιδιόκτητο κτήµα τους χτίζουν µοναστήρι και εκκλησία αφιερωµένα στον Άγιο 19th century, though, withουthe mediation of the abbot of the Monastery of Ιωσήφ. Στο τέλος του 19 αιώνα, όµως, µε τη µεσολάβηση του ηγουµένου «Loutra» and the villagers’ donations, the collapsing church of Saint Sofia της Μονής Λουτρών και την προσφορά των χωριανών ανακαινίζεται εξολοwas totally renovated and was renamed as church of the Holy Heart of κλήρου η ετοιµόρροπη εκκλησία της Αγίας Σοφίας, η οποία µετονοµάστηκε σε Jesus. After a period of abandonment, it was renovated again in the midεκκλησία της Ιεράς Καρδίας του Ιησού. Ύστερα από µια περίοδο εγκατάλειψης, dle of the 20th century, taking its expanded present form. It includes, apart ανακαινίστηκε γύρω στα µέσα του 20ού αιώνα και επεκτάθηκε παίρνοντας τη from the church, a restaurant and chambers for the guests. Standing in the σηµερινή µορφή. Περιλαµβάνει, εκτός από το ναό, εστιατόριο και κοιτώνες για middle of των the forecourt, of the Holy Heart of Jesus, created by I. φιλοξενία επισκεπτών.the Στηstatue µέση του προαύλιου χώρου δεσπόζει το άγαλFilippotis in 1950, is dedicated to the Catholics lost in wars under the time µα της Ιεράς Καρδίας του Ιησού, φιλοτεχνηµένο από τον Ι. Φιλιππότη το 1950, periods between and 1950. Every second Sunday of July, celebrations αφιερωµένο στους1912 Καθολικούς πεσόντες το διάστηµα 1912-1950. Κάθε δεύare withτου theΙουλίου turnoutεορτάζει of believers comingµεfrom all over Greece. Both τερηheld, Κυριακή πανηγυρικά την προσέλευση πολυπληthe believers and the visitors receive a warm welcome and hospitality, durθών πιστών απ’ όλη την Ελλάδα. Τόσο αυτοί, όσο και οι επισκέπτες κατά τους ing the summer months. καλοκαιρινούς µήνες τυγχάνουν θερµής υποδοχής και φιλοξενίας.

ΦΩΤΟ: ΖΕΦΗ ΠΟΤΗΡΗ

152 152

PHOTO: ZEFI POTIRI


PHOTO: ZEFI POTIRI

T he M on a stery o f the “ Angels ’ L a dy ”

153


PHOTO: ΦΩΤΟ: IOANNIS ΓΙΑΝΝΗΣVIDALIS ΒΙ∆ΑΛΗΣ

154 ΣΠΗΛΑΙΑ

Eίσοδος σπηλαίου Γαστριά


155

Caves

www.tinos360.gr


156 156

V EΛ SΑ Ι Α ΣC ΠA Η

ΣΠΗΛΑΙΑ CAVES Η Τήνος είναι ένα προικισµένο από τηtreasures. φύση νησί. Εκτός απόthe τη peaceγαλήνη και Tinos is an island with many natural Apart from την ηρεµία τηνιακού τοπίου, υπάρχει και ηside, άγρια πλευρά του µε τα βράχια, ful and calmτου Tinian landscape, there is its wild with the rocks, carved σκαλισµένα τους ανέµους καιwaves. τα µανιασµένα Τοofνησί αυτό, λοιπόν, by the strongαπό winds and the wild This islandκύµατα. has a lot unexplored περιλαµβάνει και αρκετά χρόνο καιThe σταbiggest φυσικά - φαι caves that capitulated toσπήλαια, time andπαραδοµένα the natural στο phenomena. νόµενα, ανεξερεύνητα περισσότερα). Απόfollowing: τα µεγαλύτερα και σπουδαιό and mostκαιimportant caves (τα of the island are the τερα σπήλαια του νησιού είναι:

ΦΩΤΟ: ΓΙΑΝΝΗΣ ΒΙ∆ΑΛΗΣ

The cave of «Gastria» It is located 1 km west of «Kionia» and it is ascertained that some Το Σπήλαιο Γαστριά ceramic workshops existedτων here in the και past.θεωρείται The notion supported Βρίσκεται 1χλµ δυτικά Κιονίων ότιisπαλαιά εδώ by υπήρ the fact that the soil here is rich in clay, but also by the existence of two χαν αγγειοπλαστεία. Σ’ αυτό συνηγορεί και το έδαφος, που είναι πλούσιο σε firing kilns found here. In addition to that, Στην manyπεριοχή ceramicέχουν fragments have άργιλο, αλλά και η ύπαρξη δυο καµινιών. βρεθεί πολλά been found in the area, θραύσµατα αγγείων και due to the proximity κοντά ήταν το µεγάλο of the Temple of Poιερό του Ποσειδώνα και seidon and Amphitrite, της Αµφιτρίτης, που κα which needed ceramic τανάλωνε αγγεία pots for πήλινα the pilgrim προς εξυπηρέτηση του crowds. Moreover, the πλήθους των προσκυ name «Gastria» pos-νητών. Άλλωστε η ονοsibly comes from the word (clayµασία «Glastria» «Γαστριά» προέρ vessels). χεται πιθανότατα από τη cave is over λέξηThe «Γλαστριά». 50 mΤοlong and του its inteµήκος σπηrior dimensions widen λαίου είναι πάνω από considerably in some 50 µέτρα και εσωτερικά points. Just behind σε ορισµένα σηµεία είΣπήλαιο όρµου Λιβάδας the cave entrance, a ναι ιδιαίτερα ευρύ. Στο PHOTO: GEORGE GOUMAS strange circular conάνοιγµα στο του έχει ανακαλυφθεί παράξενη οικοδοµή. struction hasεσωτερικό been discovered. According toµια tradition, it κυκλική was here the Κατά την παράδοση, εδώ κατέφευγαν οι χριστιανοί κατά τη διάρκεια των - δι Christians came to hide and find shelter during the period of their perωγµών τους. Άλλωστε, έχουν ανακαλυφθεί επιγραφές secution. Some Early-Christian inscriptionsπαλαιοχριστιανικές have been discovered on theστα τοιχώµατα της Σπηλιάς. cave walls and they are considered a proof of this fact. Ο θρύλος θέλει η σπηλιά αυτή συνδέεται το Κάστρο τουthe Εξωµβούρ The legend wants this cave toνα having been µε connected with Cas-tle throughόµως a secret This assumption is almost γου,ofωςXomburgo, µυστικό πέρασµα, αυτόpassage. είναι δύσκολο να αποδειχτεί, καθώς η impossible to prove, since the cave ends abruptly at a certain Το point, σπηλιά τερµατίζει σε ένα σηµείο, πιθανότατα λόγω κατολίσθησης. µέρος probably to some περισσότερο, rock and earαφού th masses collapsing above. Thisαυτό αξίζειdue να ερευνηθεί εκτός από γεωλογικό, παρουσιά place wor th being ενδιαφέρον. explored fur ther, because it presents both geologiζει καιisαρχαιολογικό cal and archaeological interest.


PHOTO: IOANNIS VIDALIS

157


158

C AV E S

PHOTO: IOANNIS VIDALIS

Mygospilia or Kameni Spilia (Fly-Cave or Burnt Cave) It is located 6 km west of the village «Aetofolia» and 200 m above sea level, in the area «Kastela». This cave is 55 m long and has two entrances. There are human bones of at least six women and children scattered around. From the clay-pot fragments found here, we can deduct that the remains date back to the Greek revolution and beyond. The tradition says that some destroyer lit a fire at the entrance of the cave and condemned these people to torture and martyrdom. A curious aspect of the cave is the rare species of flies living here in a swarm. Specialists maintain that this fly species exists only here.

«Drakolakas» It is 4 km far from the village «Platia» and 1 km from «Vathi»- bay. The cave’s name comes from «Drakoti» which is a local appellation for the affliction «cyanosis». The locals brought the children affected from the sickness here, and changed their black clothes into colorful ones. They prayed there for their cure and the children stayed in the cave for three nights. The ones that survived were considered to be cured by the healing capacities of the cave.

The cave of «Panormos» This cave is located north of «Panormos», in the northwestern side of Tinos. It was discovered in 1854 and was transformed into an extraction quarry of marble.


159

Some of the minor caves of the island are:

The cave of «Vriocastro» It is located in the southeast side of the pre-historic hill «Vriocastro». It is 4 m wide and its length is about 5m. The access can be achieved only from the sea.

The cave of «Vourlismena» It can be found near the location bearing the same name, in the eastern part of the island. It is 4 m wide and 5 m deep. Its ground is rocky and it is considered a wild pigeon reservation.

The cave of «Kithara» («Guitar») It is 3 km north of the above cave. It got its name from the cove that has the shape of a guitar. It is 5 m wide and 6 m deep. It can be reached only by sea. It is also a reservation for wild pigeons. It is said that this cave is connected to the mountain Tsiknias. Other caves of the island are «Fournakia», “Spilia,” (the «cave») “Kamara” (the «chamber»), «Koufagreli» and more. PHOTO: IOANNIS VIDALIS


ΦΩΤΟ: ΖΕΦΗ ΠΟΤΗΡΗ

PHOTO: ZEFI POTIRI

160 ΠΑΡΑΛΙΕΣ


BEACHES

Beaches Παραλίες

www.tinos360.gr www.tinos360.gr

161


BEACHES

BEACHES «Aghios Fokas» (Saint Fokas) It is the biggest and one of the most beautiful and varied beaches on the island. It is only a few minutes far from «Chora» and can be reached on foot. It includes everything a beach can offer. In some parts there is only sand, in others only pebbles or both, while pines and thrift offer some shade along the coast. Restaurants, PHOTO: IOANNIS VIDALIS

cafeterias, rooms to let, umbrellas and deck chairs, but also beach-bars offering sea sports, satisfy any taste.The heliport of the island is placed here, beside the middle of the beach. Saint Fokas is ideal for swimming, wind-surfing, jogging and strolling up to the ancient hill of «Vriocastro», with a view to Delos and Mykonos.

Stavros (The Holy Cross) Westwards, at a short distance from «Chora», there is the ancient port of «Stavros».This small picturesque beach, where the ruins of the harbor columns are still visible, is ideal mainly for an afternoon swim, while its sunset view is remarkable. The small homonymous chapel and the minimal ouzo-tavern just behind it, offers fresh octopuses and other seafood, rewarding the tourists for their choise. PHOTO: ZEFI POTIRI

162


BEACHES

PHOTO: IOANNIS VIDALIS

Aghios Markos (Saint Marcus)

Beside «Stavros», there is «Aghios Markos». The small picturesque chapel is built on the rock that hides the small beach beneath it. The pebbles and the crystal clear water attract those who do not prefer the water to be warm. When the strong northern wind blows, «Aghios Markos» is considered a hideaway and an ideal solution for the bathers.

Kionia

PHOTO: IOANNIS VIDALIS

Right after «Aghios Markos» we come across the beaches of «Kionia» and «Tsambia», the latter owing its name to the historical homonymous river «Sampias» ending here. The extended beach with pebbles and pines is located in front of the archeological site of «Kionia», with the Sanctuary of Poseidon and Amphitrite just opposite Syros. A multitude of restaurants and rooms to let, meet the most different needs. After «Kionia», there is a series of small bays with the last one, «Platia Ammos», or «Germanos» as the locals call it, being the most beautiful.

163


BEACHES

Aghios Sostis A few miles east from «Chora» there is a series of popular sand beaches, with a marvelous view to Mykonos.The first one is Aghios Sostis, named after the beautiful church on the beach, dating back to the 19th century.This PHOTO: DIMITRIS KORRES

164

leeward and shallow beach is ideal for diving and attracts not only families but also individual tourists.

Laouti or Skylandar This beach together with the nearby «Aghia Kyriaki» is ideal for families, because it combines the clean sea with a nice sandy beach not only for sunbathing but also sports. The cafeterias and taverns are an interesting feature for the visitor.

Aghios Ioannis Porto In the east side of «Agia Kiriaki» we meet the gulf of «Aghios Ioannis Porto» which formerly had been a little port. It is one of the most popular and crowded beaches of the island. It is named after a little chapel on a rock by the beach. The lovely dark and compact sand, the shallow sea and the shadowy trees make it an ideal destination. A coffee-bar and umbrellas are an additional service to the bathers.

Pachia Ammos Just the name (thick sand) prepares the visitors of this beach about what to be expecting. Here the sand is compact and darker than usual, the water is blue-green and the sand-dunes remind us of the desert. Apart from a pleasant swim, the location is perfect for playing games.


BEACHES

Lychnaftia Along the road to «Triandaros»-»Dyo Choria» we come across the intersection leading to «Lychnaftia» beach. It is a special coast with sand, pebbles and luxuriant vegetation. The rocks at its edge, offer shadow and form natural chambers. The green water is always cool and Mykonos seems very close.

Santa Margarita After the village «Potamia», we descend to «Santa Margarita». It is a quiet little sandy beach that owes its name to the homonymous catholic chapel of the area. The fact that it does not draw round a lot of people, makes it the first choice to anyone that likes privacy and quiet.

Livada It is a unique beach which you can reach by continuing down the road «Steni- Myrsini». The natural landscape beguiles every visitor, with the little river flowing out into the sea, forming a small lake, the strange massive rocks, the wind and the waves. The beach is ideal when calm. It has pebbles that continue into the sea which deepens unexpectedly. As in «Kolymbithra», when the northern wind blows, the waves are high, lively and remind us of exotic places. The location is ideal for an exploration and the tourist can walk beside the river under the oak trees, take pictures and eat at the tavern.

PHOTO: ARISTEIDES KONTOGEORGIS

165


166

BEACHES

Kolybithra In «Komi», we come across the crossroads to «Kolybithra».After a pleasant trip through the little fertile valley, we end up at the beaches of «Kolybithra». It is a natural twofold sea-basin, with «Drakonisi» just outside the middle of the gulf. A little lake with ducks, turtles and other animals is beside it. The place has been declared as a natural bird-reservation because several rare bird species pass through here.The biggest sea basin is less crowded, but fewer people prefer to swim there, due to the waves created by the northern wind. The smaller bay is the most popular for swimmers. It is protected from the wind, and considered ideal for beach sports on the sand, with umbrellas and deck chairs, making it one of the most popular destinations for any visitor. The fish-taverns near and above the beach, offer hospitality to the bathers.The old establishment of the Ursuline nuns’ summer camp, currently belonging to the Leondios School, is also placed here.

PHOTO: IOANNIS VIDALIS


BEACHES

Aghios Romanos It is located in the southern coast of the island, with a small summerhouse area built during the 80’ies. It has an unobstructed view of the Aegean and Syros. The long beach is sandy with shadowy trees. At the edge of the beach there is a small port with a homonymous chapel. A tavern welcomes the visitors. West from «Aghios Romanos» you can see the beautiful deserted beach of «Apigania» with green-turquoise waters. To reach that beach you have to take a small path. Bring along water and an umbrella.

Aghios Petros It is the first of the three beaches of the village «Kardiani» (along with «Kalivia» and «Ormos Giannaki»). In the middle of this beach, on a rock, there is the homonymous catholic chapel (built in the 16th century) that separates the coast in two parts. Here, on 30/09/44 German invaders were hit when landing from the sea. You can enjoy the quietness the place can offer, the crystal clear water and the thin white sand.

Ormos Giannaki It is located under the beautiful village of «Kardiani», which is literally climbing on the mountain. Apart from the asphalt roadway connecting the beach to the village, there is also an old traditional marble clad path. It is a family beach with pebbles and sand and there are taverns there. East of «Ormos Giannaki», there is «Kalyvia»-beach, a quiet and peaceful coast with sand and shadowy vegetation.

It is the seapor t of the homonymous village and had been a por t in the past. It is a summer resor t with several vacation houses, coffee-shops and taverns near the sea. Beside this coast, there is the beach «Skinaki» with rich sand and a little thrift that offers shadow. This leeward coast is an ideal choice when the nor thern winds are blowing.

PHOTO: IOANNIS VIDALIS

Ormos Ysternion

167


168

BEACHES

Mali At the northwestern edge of Tinos, there is a picturesque cove discovered and loved by several people who built some houses recently, due to the new road that was opened, starting from the village «Marlas». This romantic landscape opposite the PHOTO: EVELYN FOSKOLOU coast of Andros is ideal for an idyllic promenade along the white-pebbled beach and a swim in the clear turquoise waters.

Panormos It is an old port of Tinos and the seaport of «Pyrgos» with the island «Planitis» in front of the center of the bay. There are several beautiful beaches around this port. The one in the cove with a little lake with ducks, turtles and other animals, attracts people due to this particularity but also because it is located almost inside the thorp with the white houses, the sea food taverns and the boats swaying in the calm water. On the left of «Panormos» there is a series of beautiful beaches, the most interesting being «Agia Thalassa». With its marvelous sand it is an ideal destination when the northern wind blows, because it is protected. On the right side of «Panormos» at a distance of 1 km, we come across the beach of «Rohari». It is a big cove with clean sand, light blue water and shadowy trees. A beach bar and showers are at the swimmers’ disposition.

PHOTO: IOANNIS VIDALIS

PHOTO: IOANNIS VIDALIS


PHOTO: ZEFI POTIRI

BEACHES 169


PHOTO: ZEFI POTIRI

170

BEACHES


BEACHES

Beaches of Tinos and capacity of coasts

(special regional planning study, B’ phase, Daskalakis K., Athens September 1993) Beach

Stavros St. Marco Kionia I Kionia II Gastria C. Ballos I C. Ballos ΙΙ St. Romanos St. Romanos Ι St. Romanos ΙΙ Vouno I (Livada) Vouno II St. Petros Kalyvia Giannakis (Kardiani) Isternia Bay Aspros Gyalos Malli Koumelas Megali Ammos (Kolympithra) Kolympithra I Kolympithra II Kolympithra III Livada Planitis St. Fokas St. Sostis I St. Sostis II St. Ioannis (Skyladar) St. Ioannis (Porto) Pacheia Ammos Ferro Chorio Lychnaftia Santa Margarita Agapitikia I Agapitikia II Rochary Panormos

length (m) width (m)

100 80 450 100 120 80 70 90 500 40 250 170 340 160 100 320 150 50 80 350 90 200 40 150 200 1400 500 50 350 270 90 50 350 200 120 30 180 180

10 10 15 10 15 10 15 20 20 15 20 20 20 25 10 25 25 25 30 50 40 50 15 30 20 15 15 15 35 25 20 10 25 20 40 20 50 20

surface (m²)

capacity of bathers

1000 800 6750 1000 1800 800 1050 1800 10000 600 5000 3400 6800 4000 1000 8000 3750 1250 2400 17500 3600 10000 600 4500 4000 21000 7500 750 12250 6750 1800 500 8750 4000 4800 600 9000 3600

100 80 675 100 180 80 105 160 910 60 455 310 620 360 100 725 340 115 220 1450 300 830 60 400 360 2100 750 75 1020 610 180 50 795 360 400 55 750 325

171


PHOTO: ARISTEIDES KONTOGEORGIS

ΦΩΤΟ: ΑΡΙΣΤΕΙ∆ΗΣ ΚΟΝΤΟΓΕΩΡΓΗΣ

172

C U S TO M S


C U S TO M S

Customs

www.tinos360.gr

173


174

C U S TO M S

Like every other island in Greece, Tinos has its own customs as well, which the village associations and the inhabitants try to preserve until today. The visitor of the island will have the chance to get acquainted with them and experience these different traditions. The Carols, the Tinian Wedding, the evening party, the local music are some aspects of the Tinian cultural heritage.

TINIAN WEDDING The wedding is a religious ceremony but also a cultural expression, since, apart from the ritual factor, the wedding keeps local traditions alive. In Tinos, weddings are celebrated following the same procedure in both dogmas, orthodox and catholic. Some days before each wedding, girls and other relatives of the pair about to be married, go around the houses of the village and the neighboring villages to invite people. On the wedding day, the village barber goes to the bridegroom’s house to cut his hair and shave him. Young men come to help him dress and, in the mean time, they shoot with a riffle. The young girls go to the bride’s house to help her dress. A wedding procession starts then, with the folk instruments (violin, lute) in the front, playing wedding songs, followed by the groom (formerly on a horse or mule) and his family, the relatives and the guests. The same happens with the bride, who enters the church escorted in the same manner by her own relatives and friends. At the church forecourt, she meets the groom and together they go into the church. The religious ceremony follows and afterwards the procession starts again. The musicians go first, playing wedding songs. Right behind them the newlyweds are following, then the parents, the maids of honor and everybody else. At the house, a great reception is waiting, with traditional confectionery (almond cookies, traditional pastry called «fishes», honey-baked sesame sweets, and fried dough honey rolls), as well as food. Formerly, rabbit stew was a necessary dish.The wishes and treats are countless. Everybody sits around the table and the instruments start playing. The first to dance are the newlyweds, while the musicians sing improvised songs for the groom and the bride, complimenting the groom’s youthful vigor and the bride’s beauty. The merry celebration goes on until dawn but in old times, it used to continue until the afternoon of the next day.


C U S TO M S

LOCAL MUSIC AND INSTRUMENTS The “par excellence” necessary instruments in a Tinian “panigyri” (revel) are the violin and the lute. Formerly, the hornpipe was usually played as well, but unfortunately it is extinct nowadays and the hornpipe musicians on the island are few.The guitar, the “outi”, the bouzouki, the accordion and the clarinet are secondary and they follow the main instruments in big orchestrations. The most popular dances in Tinos are «Balos» and «Syrtos».

CAROLS (CHRISTMAS - and EASTER -) The Christmas Carols are a special category of religious folk songs that are chanted all over Greece on Christmas Eve, New Year’s Eve, the Eve of Epiphany, and Palm Sunday to praise the Lord, Jesus Christ, Saint John the Baptist, and Basil the Great. In Tinos, during the past, these carols expressed mainly the religious feeling. The elderly people of the village chanted at the night of the Eve around the houses, starting from the priest’s house. As the years went by and the old carol chanters were passing away, younger people started singing them around the villages, holding drums, which today have been displaced by triangles.

«VEGHERA» (EVENING PARTY) The «Veghera» is an ancient custom that has been preserved until recently in the villages of Tinos, during the cold winter nights. This custom contributes to the villagers’ social life, brings relatives and friends closer together and gives joyful play opportunities to children. The family that organized the «Veghera», used to prepare the oil lamp early in the afternoon making it, at the same time, the necessary guide for the road. During the course of the evening, the younger child held the lamp and walked up front, leading the rest of the family to the house where the “veghera” was taking place. When they arrived at their final destination, the children of the two families enjoyed themselves playing various games in the yard and at the end, when they were tired they sat and listened to the grandmother narrating fairy tales and stories with elves (called Ayeloudes in Tinos). Beside the table filled with all sorts of delicacies, there was the wood basket for the fireplace, where the chestnuts were baking. The adults sat all together, while the housewife knit and plied the distaff. The «Veghera» lasted until ten or eleven o’clock in the evening and when it ended, the guests lighted the lamps again, the families wished each other good night and went home.

175


U ΙS Μ TO ΕC Θ ΑMS

ΠΑΝΗΓΥΡΙΑ ΧΩΡΙΑ in ΤΗΣ ΤΗΝΟΥ Church ΣΤΑ festivals Tinos

25. Του Ευαγγελισµού της Θεοτόκου / APRIL Παναγία 24. Madonna of Kalaman,Volax (Catholic) ΑΠΡΙΛΙΟΣ 24. Παναγίας Καλαµάν / Βωλάξ MAY 16. Aghioi Theodoroi, Steno ΜΑΪΟΣ 21. St. Constantin-Helena Ζωοδόχου Πηγής / Ξώµπουργο, ∆υο Χωριά (κινητή εορτή) JUNE 16. Αγ. Θεοδώρων / Στο στενό της Άνδρου 13. Aghios Antonios, Smardakito/Xobourgo 21. Holy Κωνσταντίνου Ελένης / Spirit/Holyκαι Trinity, Kardiani/ Αγ. Τριάδα Falatados/Hatzirados 24. Aghios Ioannis, Moundados ΙΟΥΝΙΟΣ 29. Aghioi Petros and/ Αρνάδος Pavlos, Triandaros Της Αναλήψεως 30. Holy Apostles, Triandaros (κινητή εορτή) 13. Αγ. Αντωνίου / Σµαρδάκιτο, JULYΞώµπουργο Αγ. Πνεύµατος Αγ.Τριάδα, 01. Aghioi Anargyroi,/Arnados/Marlas/Porto Καρδιανή, Φαλατάδος, Χατζηράδος 20. Prophet Elias, Vaketa, Chora (κινητή εορτή) 25. Santa Anna, Tzados 24. Αγ. Ιωάννη, Μουντάδος 26. Aghia Paraskevi, Ysternia 29. Πέτρου και Παύλου / Τριαντάρος 27. Aghios Penteleimon, Triandaros 30. Αγ. Αποστόλων / Τριαντάρος

AUGUST ΙΟΥΛΙΟΣ 01.Metamorfosi Αγ. Αναργύρων / Αρνάδος, Μαρλάς, 06. Sotiros, Πόρτο (The Transfiguration of Christ) 20. Προφήτη Ηλία / Βακέτα, Χώρα Choria 25.Priastro/Karia/Karkados/Dyo Αγ. Άννας / Τζάδος 26. Αγ. Παρασκευής / Υστέρνια 15. Assumption of Virgin Mary, Chora/ Vryssi 27.Aghios Αγ. Παντελεήµονος, 18. Agapitos, AgapiΤριαντάρος 23. Kyra Xeni, Pyrgos ΑΥΓΟΥΣΤΟΣ 06.Aghios Μεταµορφώσεως / Πριάστρο, 29. Ioannis, Komi Καρυά, Καρκάδος, ∆υο Χωριά 15. Κοίµηση της Θεοτόκου / Παναγία, SEPTEMBER Βρυσί 07. Sostis, Aghios Sostis 18.Aghios Αγ. Αγαπητού / Αγάπη 23. Κυρα-Ξένης / Πύργος 08. Birth of Virgin Mary,Vourniotissa 23. Εννιάµερα της Παναγίας / Τσικνιάς, 14. Timios ΚαρυάStavros, (Holy Cross) Ktikados/ ChoraΑποκεφαλιστή / Κώµη 29.Priastro, Αγ. Ιωάννου ΣΕΠΤΕΜΒΡΙΟΣ OCTOBER 07. Αγ. Σώστη / Αγ.Σώστης 26. Dimitrios, Pyrgos/Karya 08. Aghios Γενέθλιο της Παναγίας / Βουρνιώτισσα 14. Τιµίου Σταυρού / Κτικάδος, NOVEMBER Πριάστρο, Χώρα (στις 15) 08. Taxiarchis, Chora 11.ΟΚΤΩΒΡΙΟΣ Aghios Minas, Kardiani, Xobourgo 26.Eisodia Αγ. ∆ηµητρίου / Καρυά, Τσικνιάςof 21. Theotokou (Presentation Virgin Mary), Tripotamos ΝΟΕΜΒΡΙΟΣ 25. Aikaterini,(Catherine) Kambos 08.Aghia Ταξιαρχών / Χώρα 11. Αγ. Μηνά / Καρδιανή, Ξώµπουργο 21. Εισοδίων Θεοτόκου / Τριπόταµος DECEMBER 25. Αγ. Αικατερίνης/ Κάµπος 04. Aghia Barbara, Chora ∆ΕΚΕΜΒΡΙΟΣ 05. Aghios Savas, Chora 04. Αγ. Βαρβάρα / Χώρα 06. St. Nicholas, Steni 05. Aγ. Σάββα / Χώρα 12. Spyridon,/ Στενή Ktikados 06.Aghios Αγ. Νικολάου 12. Αγ. Σπυρίδωνος / Κτικάδος 13. Santa Loukia (Lucia) Karya/Arnados 13. Αγ. Λουκίας / Καρυά, Αρνάδος 15. Aghios Eleftherios, Karya 15. Αγ. Ελευθερίου, Καρυά 22. Anastasia, Karya 22. Aghia Αγ. Αναστασίας, Καρυά PHOTO: IOANNIS VIDALIS

JANUARY ΙΑΝΟΥΑΡΙΟΣ 06. Άγ. Θεοφάνεια 06. Theophania (Epiphany), Chora 07. Αγ. Ιωάννη, Μουντάδος 07. Aghios Ioannis, Moundados 15. Οσίου Ιωάννου 17. Aghios Antonios, του SteniΚαλυβίτου 17. Αγ. Αντωνίου , Στενή 25. Aghios Grigorios, Falatados 25. Γρηγορίου του Θεολόγου / 30. Finding of the Holy Icon, Chora Φαλατάδος 30. Tης Ευρέσεως-Τριών Ιεραρχών, FEBRUARY Χώρα 02. Ypapanti (Candlemas), Ktikados ΦΕΒΡΟΥΑΡΙΟΣ 10. Aghios Charalambos, Tarambados 02. Holy Της Υπαπαντής του Κυρίου, Κτικάδος Trinity, Chora/Platia 10. Αγ. Χαραλάµπους / Ταραµπάδος, Αγ.Τριάδα, Χώρα, Πλατιά MARCH 25. Annunciation of Holy Mary, Chora ΜΑΡΤΙΟΣ

ΦΩΤΟ: ΓΙΑΝΝΗΣ ΒΙ∆ΑΛΗΣ

176 176


PHOTO: ARISTEIDES KONTOGEORGIS

C U S TO M S 177


ΦΩΤΟ: ΑΡΙΣΤΕΙ∆ΗΣ ΚΟΝΤΟΓΕΩΡΓΗΣ

PHOTO: ARISTEIDES KONTOGEORGIS


PRODUCTS FROM TINOS

Products Προϊόνταand και Recipes Συνταγές

της Τήνου

www.tinos360.gr www.tinos360.gr

179


180 180

P RΡ O UC Π ΟD ΪΟ ΝT Τ SΑ FΤRΗOΣM ΤTΗI N ΝO ΟSΥ

ΠΡΟΪΟΝΤΑ FROM ΤΗΣ ΤΗΝΟΥ PRODUCTS TINOS Ο επισκέπτης της Τήνου έχειchance την ευκαιρία να the γευθεί αφενός kitchen µεν την of παραThe visitor of Tinos has the to taste traditional the δοσιακή αφετέρου τα ξεχωριστά εδέσµατα µε Cyclades,κυκλαδίτικη but also theκουζίνα, remarkable Tinianδεspecialties, madeτηνιακά with local genuine τα ντόπια αγνά υλικά που παράγει το νησί. Πέρα από τα κηπευτικά που αφθοproducts.Alongside the garden production that abounds in irrigated gardens, νούν ποτιστικά σηµεία του island. νησιούFurthermore, ευδοκιµούν many σε kinds of fruitπεριβόλια, tree thriveστα in απάνεµα the hillsides of the όλων των ειδών οπωροφόρα δέντρα. Ακόµα στο νησί αναπτύσσονται some bushy plants and wild fruits grow freely in the non cultivated αυτοareas. φυή θαµνώδη φυτά σε άγονες τοποθεσίες συνήθως, όπως κάπαρη, µανιτάρια, These can be caper, sage, dictamnus, thyme, oregano, chamomile and many αλιφόνοι, δίκταµο, θυµάρι, άγριες αγκινάρες, ρίγανη, φραγκόσυκα, φασκόµηother kinds of vegetation, as well as prickly-pear cactuses and mushrooms, λο, χαµοµήλι και όλων των ειδών τα αφεψήµατα. while the so called “wild artichokes” are widely cultivated. Η πλούσια βλάστηση του νησιού, κυρίως στα Κάτω Μέρη, δηµιούργησε The island’s opulent vegetation, mostly in «Kato Meri», created prosευνοϊκές συνθήκες για ανάπτυξη της κτηνοτροφίας. Κάθε αγροτικό σπίτι έχει perous conditions for husbandry. Every farmer household has self suffiαυτάρκεια σε καταναλωτικά αγαθά. Συγκεκριµένα οι χωρικοί εκτρέφουν αγεciency when basic food products are concerned. In particular, the farmλάδες, αιγοπρόβατα, πουλερικά, κουνέλια κ.ά., ενώ οι περιστεριώνες που βρίers breed cows, sheep, chickens, rabbits and more, while the dove-cotes σκονται διάσπαρτοι σε όλο το νησί δηλώνουν και την εκτροφή περιστεριών. that are all overπου theδεisland, testimony dovebreeding. animal Το ζώο, όµως, λείπειare απόa κανένα σπίτιofτου χωριού και τοThe οποίο συthough, that every rural household in Tinos was breeding for a whole ντηρεί για ένα χρόνο ο ιδιοκτήτης του, είναι ο χοίρος, τον οποίο τρέφειyear για is the swine, which is being fed in order for its weight to increase, preparing να αποκτήσει µεγαλύτερο βάρος, προκειµένου να εξασφαλίσει το κρέας και το it to the pig-slaughtering in winter, thus ensuring the family’s yearly meat λίπος της χρονιάς. and Ύστερα fat provisions. από όλον αυτό το φυτικό και ζωϊκό πλούτο είναι φανερό ότι η After vegetable animal στους affluence, it is apparent Tinos Τήνος έχειall τη this δυνατότητα να and προσφέρει ντόπιους αλλά και that στους επιhas the της capability the locals and the visitors, genuine pure σκέπτες γνήσια of καιoffering αγνά παραδοσιακά προϊόντα, ορισµένα από and τα οποία, products, someεκτός of them, exported and in great demand. «Louza»,(special µάλιστα, εξάγει του νησιού και είναι περιζήτητα. Η λούζα, το λουκάνικο, το σκορδάτο, τοham χοιροµέρι είναιham, ονοµαστά για τη γευστικότητά Πασίwine-processes ) sausage, and «Skordato», are famousτους. delicacies. γνωστα, εξάλλου, είναι το εύγευστο τηνιακό γάλα, η γραβιέρα Τήνου, η κοπαFar-famed also are: the tasty Tinian milk and various cheeses like the gruyere, νιστή, τοcheese τυράκι το στρογγυλό, πέτρωµα (τυρίcheese, ανάλατο), ανθότυρο, το the soft «kopanisti», theτοround Tinian the το unsalted cheese µαλαθούνι, που παράγονται σε ένα σύγχρονο συνεταιριστικό τυροκοµείο. «petroma», the unsalted soft cheese «anthotiro» and «Malathouni», which Ο produced επισκέπτηςinθα βρει ακόµα ντόπιο milk θυµαρίσιο µέλι, λιαστές ντοµάτες, are all a modern corporate and cheese dairy factory. χλωρά και ξερά σύκα και όλα τα είδη των ντόπιων φρούτων και ζαρζαβατιThe visitor can also find local thyme-honey, sun-dried tomatoes, fresh κών. Γνωστό είναι,every επίσης, το of άριστης ροζακί σταφύλι, ενώ µπορεί and dry figs and kind fresh ποιότητας fruit and vegetables. The first-quality κανείς να δοκιµάσει µουσταλευριά φτιαγµένη από γλυκύτατο µούστο. Τέλος, red grape is also known, while you can try grape juice-jelly. In conclusion, ο επισκέπτης δε θα φύγει από το νησί, αν δεν πιει τηνιακό κρασί, αλλά κυρίως the visitor can not leave the island if he doesn’t drink Tinian wine and exρακί. quisite raki (arrack). Όλα τα παραπάνω προϊόντα µπορεί να προµηθευτεί κανείς από το συAll the above products can be purchased from the food store owned by νεταιρισµό, τα καταστήµατα τροφίµων και τις λαϊκές αγορές της Τήνου. Είναι the agricultural cooperative, as well as at the super- markets of Tinos. It is cerβέβαιο ότι ο καθένας φεύγοντας θα αγοράσει και τα ονοµαστά τηνιακά γλυtain that everyone before departure will buy the famed Tinian confectionery κά φτιαγµένα από αγνά υλικά: αµυγδαλωτά, ξεροτήγανα (δίπλες), «ψαράκια» made of pure products; almond cookies, sweet κ.ά. dough rolls, «diples», (σκαλτσούνια), µπεζέδες, τυρόπιτες (γλυκές),fried λουκούµια

«psarakia», «bezedes», sweet cheese-pies, Turkish delights and more.


PRODUCTS FROM TINOS

181


182

RECIPES

Sun-dried tomatoes in batter INGREDIENTS FOR 15 PIECES 15 sun dried tomatoes 1 ½ cup flour 2 spoons fine-cut parsley 1 small dry onion grated 2 spoons fine-cut fennel 2/3 cup water 1 ½ cup olive oil for the frying, salt and pepper DIRECTIONS: Put the dried tomatoes in the water for a day, so they loose their salt and get fluffy. In a bowl, pour the flour, add the onion, fennel, salt and pepper. Mix all these ingredients with water, as much as needed, until a thick batter is made. Pour the tomatoes into the batter. Take the tomatoes one by one along with some mash and fry them in hot oil, both sides. They are served hot.

PHOTO: to fotografio

VARIATIONS: The tomatoes are also tasty without the vegetables. Put some sugar on the soaked tomatoes and then pour them in the mash.

Omelet or «Furtalia» with sausage INGREDIENTS FOR 4-6 PEOPLE 200gr sausage pieces 1 kg potatoes 2 spoons butter 2 spoons olive oil 5 eggs 2 spoons grated cheese 2 spoons milk salt and pepper


RECIPES

DIRECTIONS: Peal the potatoes. Cut them in thin slices. Put in a non-stick frying pan the butter and the potatoes and add the sausage cut in small pieces. Cover the pan and braise. Stir regularly with a wooden spoon, until they are baked. Mix the eggs with all the rest of the ingredients and pour over the potatoes. Fry one side of the omelet and then turn it the other side to fry as well. It is served hot and goes with a season’ s salad.

Savore with molasses

PHOTO: to fotografio

INGREDIENTS FOR 6-8 PEOPLE 1kg of small fish ½ cup flour 1 cup frying oil For the sauce: 3 spoons olive oil 3 slices of garlic fine-cut 3 spoons flour 1/4 cup vinegar 1/4 cup molasses 1 cup water 1 small spoon sugar salt, pepper DIRECTIONS: Wash the fish, salt them and leave them for a while in the salt. Then strain them. Afterwards, roll them in flour and fry them. Put them in a shallow platter. Put the garPHOTO: to fotografio lic in the hot frying oil until golden and add the flour, stirring. Add the molasses slowly, the vinegar the water

183


184

RECIPES

and the sugar and stir them with a wooden spoon, avoiding the forming of lumps. Add water, if needed, to make a liquid sauce and adjust its taste until it’s sweet and sour. As it is hot pour it over the fish. They are served hot or cold. VARIATIONS: Add a branch of rosemary and eliminate the molasses. NOTE: The fish covered with this sauce could be preserved unaltered for days. In the old times, when they didn’t have fridges, the farmers and fishermen took them along when they were to come back after 2 or 3 days.

Stuffed Squid INGREDIENTS FOR 4 PEOPLE 1 ½ kg Squid 1 big onion finely-cut ½ cup of rice 1 cup parsley finely-cut 3 spoons of caper 1 slice of hard grated bread 1 cup olive oil 1 cup white wine, salt, pepper DIRECTIONS: Clean the squid by separating the head from the tentacles and the rest of the body, removing the guts and the thin transparent back-bone. Wash the parts. Fine-cut the tentacles and strain them. Put the oil to warm up and add the onion. Sauter for a few minutes, add the tentacles, wait for their water to evaporate and then, add the ½ cup wine and the rice. Stir for a few minutes until the rice absorbs the liquids. Take it from the hot plate and add the parsley, the capers, the bread, salt and pepper and stir. Stuff the squid and PHOTO: to fotografio close them with a toothpick. Put them in a deep frying pan. Add ½ cup olive oil, ½ cup wine and simmer for half an hour.


RECIPES

Sweet fried Dough-Rolls (Xerotigana) INGREDIENTS FOR 40-50 PIECES 500 gr. all purpose flour ½ cup lemon juice ½ cup olive oil 1 shot of raki (arrack), water 3 cups olive oil for the frying Finely cut walnuts, sesame, cinnamon For the syrup: 3 glasses of sugar ½ glass of water 3 tablespoons of honey DIRECTIONS: Put the flour in a bowl, make a hole in the middle and pour the olive oil, the lemon juice and water, mixing until the dough is thick. Cut the dough in orange- sized balls. Flatten it until you get a very thin puff pastry and cut it in rectangular stripes 10 x 20 cm. If the puff pastry is sticky, powder it with corn flour. Heat the frying oil. Put the stripes one by one and with fast moves fold it into a tube, rolled with the help of two forks. Fry each roll golden all around. Put the fried roles on absorbent paper so they are free from oil. Put all PHOTO: to fotografio the ingredients for the syrup in a pot and let them boil until ready. Put the fried rolls on a platter and pour the syrup. Sprinkle with the walnuts, cinnamon and sesame.We can preserve the fried roles after we fry them for two or three weeks and when we want to serve them, then we pour syrup and we garnish. VARIATION:You can make the dough with orange juice and without water. The recipes were given by Mrs Nicoletta Delatolla-Foscolou and are included in her book «Tastes of the Cyclades», with photos of Chrysa Paraskeva («To Fotografeio»).

185


ΦΩΤΟ: ΑΡΙΣΤΕΙ∆ΗΣ ΚΟΝΤΟΓΕΩΡΓΗΣ

PHOTO: ARISTEIDES KONTOGEORGIS

186


Peregrin a tion

Peregrination

www.tinos360.gr

187


188

Peregrin a tion

10 MAMA∆OΣ MAMADOS

MAPΛAΣ MARLAS ΠANOPMOΣ PANORMOS ΡΟΧΑΡΗ ROCHARI ΠYPΓOΣ PIRGOS

Π. ΒΑΘΥ B. VATHI

9

9

ΠΛATIA PLATIA

BENAP∆A∆OΣ VENARDADOS

10

ΥΣΤΕΡΝΙΑ ISTERNIA

Μ. Καταπολιανής M. Katapolianis

ΟΡΜΟΣ ΥΣΤΕΡΝΙΩΝ ORMOS ISTERNION

10 KAP∆IANH KARDIANI Π. ΟΡΜΟΣ KAP∆IANHΣ ORMOS KARDIANIS

Π. AG.


Peregrin a tion

Προφ. Ηλίας Prof. Elias ΚΟΛΥΜΠΗΘΡΑ KOLIMBITHRA

Κακή Σκάλα Kaki Skala

Βουρνιότισσα Vourniotisa

9 AETOΦΩΛIA AETOFOLIA KAPKA∆OΣ KARKADOS

AΓAΠH AGHAPI

KAΛΛONH KALONI

ΑΓ. ΡΩΜΑΝΟΣ ΑΓ. Π. ΡΩΜΑΝΟΣ . ROMANOS B. AG. ROMANOS B.

5

KΩMH KOMI ΠEPAΣTPA PERASTRA

ΛΙΒΑ∆ΑΣ LIVADA

ΣKΛABOXΩPI SKLAVOCHORI KPOKOΣ KROKOS

ΣMAP∆AKITO SMARDAKITO

2

ΛOYTPA LOUTRA

ΣKAΛA∆OΣ SKALADOS BΩΛAΞ VOLAX

2

5 ΦAΛATA∆OΣ FALATADOS

ΟΡ. ΤΣΙΚΝΙΑΣ M.T. TSIKNIAS

1

MYPΣINH MIRSINI KOYMAPOΣ KOUMAROS MEΣH MESI ΞINAPA ΣTENH TZA∆OΣ XINARA TZADOS KAMΠOΣ KEXPOΣ STENI KECHROS KAMPOS KAPYA KARIA XATZIPA∆OΣ 3 ΠOTAMIA MONAΣTHPI TPIΠOTAMOΣ CHATZIRADOS MONASTIRI TRIPOTAMOS POTAMIA KTIKA∆OΣ KTIKADOS APNA∆OΣ ΣΠEPA∆OΣ ARNADOS SPERADOS MOYNTA∆OΣ ∆YO XΩPIA MOUNTADOS DIO CHORIA ΟΡ. ΕΞΩΜΒΟΥΡΓΟ MT. EXOMVOURGO

TAPAMΠA∆OΣ TARAMPADOS

ΚΙΟΝΙΑ KIONIA

1

4

MΠEP∆EMIAPOΣ BERDEMIAROS

7 ΛΥΧΝΑΦΤΙΑ LICHNAFTIA

TPIANTAPOΣ TRIANTAROS

8

4

THNOΣ TINOS

6

ΑΓ. ΙΩΑΝ. ΠOPTO AG. IOANNIS PORTO ΑΓ. ΣΩΣΤΗΣ AG. SOSTIS ΑΓ. ΦΩΚΑΣ AG. FOKAS

189


190 190

Peregrin tion Ο ∆ Ο Ι Π Ο Ρ aΙ Κ Ο

Ο επισκέπτης Τήνου, το προσκύνηµα της ΜεγαλόχαThe visitor of της Tinos mustπέρα bearαπό in mint that, beyondστο theναό pilgrimage to the ρης, θα πρέπει να εξερευνήσει το εσωτερικό τοπίο του νησιού, που έχει καταφέchurch of Virgin Mary an exploration of the inner landscape of the island is ρει µέχριThe σήµερα παραµείνει από ξένες περιπατητής advised. ruralνα areas of Tinosαλώβητο have managed to επεµβάσεις. stay almost Ο unaffected by θα βαδίσει σε λιθόστρωτους δρόµους και µονοπάτια απολαµβάνοντας το πέτριexternal influences until today. The ambler will walk through cobbled roads νο στοιχείο της τηνιακής ενδοχώρας, µε την περίτεχνη ξερολιθιά της φτιαγµένη and paths, enjoying the rocky surroundings of the Tinian hinterland, lined with από µοναδικούς τεχνίτες που φρόντισαν να τη «δέσουν» µε το περιβάλλον. dry stone walls, made by brilliant builders, who managed to make them merge Θα έχει, ακόµα, την ευκαιρία να απολαύσει αποµακρυσµένους περιστεριώνες, with the environment. He will also have the chance to enjoy remote dove«κεντηµένους» µε µοναδική µαεστρία από µάστορες της πέτρας, αγροικίες και cotes, «embroidered» with unique expertise by stone-carvers, country cottages ξωκλήσια µε περίτεχνα καµπαναριά, αλλά και καταπράσινες ρεµατιές που στολίand withτοπίο. artistic bell-towers, but also green ravines that embellish the ζουνchapels το γαλήνιο peaceful scenery. διαδροµές είναι µερικές µόνο από τις πολλές που προσφέροΟι παρακάτω The routes below are only some of the various alternatives suggested to νται στους λάτρεις της πεζοπορίας.

the hiking devotees.

ΦΩΤΟ: ΑΡΙΣΤΕΙ∆ΗΣ ΚΟΝΤΟΓΕΩΡΓΗΣ

1

ΦΑΛΑΤΑ∆ΟΣ -- (MYRSINI) [ΜΥΡΣΙΝΗ] -- ΜΑΓΓΑΝΑΡΙ - ΠΛΑΤΥ FALATADOS MAGGANARI - PLATY LIVADA COAST ΑΚΤΗ ΛΙΒΑ∆ΑΣ

διαδροµή αυτή παρουσιάζει εξαιρετικό εφόσον ο star οδοιThisΗroute presents a great interest, whileενδιαφέρον, the foot passenger, tπόρος µε αφετηρία το Φαλατάδο, έναbiggest από τα µεγαλύτερα ωραιότερα χωing from «Falatados», one of the and most και beautiful villages ριά της Τήνου, έχει chance την ευκαιρία να περπατήσει σε λιθόστρωτο στο in Tinos, has the to walk on a cobbled path forµονοπάτι the biggest µεγαλύτερο µέρος του, να par t of the way, through βαδίσει στις σκιερές όχθες the shadowy waterside του ποταµού της περιοχής of the adjacent creek µε την πυκνή βλάστηση από with the rich vegetation πλατάνια και βελανιδιές και of sycamores and oaks να εξερευνήσει τοποθεσίand explore locations ες µε παλιούς νερόµυλους. with old watermills. Στη θέση «Λυδάκια», At το the named «Lidaτοπίοsiteείναι εντυπωσιακό, kia», theάπειροι scenerαποσαθρωy is specκαθώς tacular, with innumerable µένοι γρανιτόλιθοι καθηPHOTO: ARISTEIDES KONTOGEORGIS weather-beaten big granλώνουν τον περιηγητή. Η περιπλάνηση µπορεί να ολοκληρωθεί, των ειδυλλιακών περιοχών Πλατύ ite rocks. The wandering can end µέσω through the rural areas of «Plati» και στον at Όρµο Λιβάδας, µιας πανέµορφης και πεντακάθαρης andΜαγγανάρι, «Magganari», theτης coast of «Livada», a beautiful and clean παραλίας. Βέβαια, η διαδροµή αυτή µπορεί να παραταθεί ως το Φάρο της Λιbeach. Fur ther, the excursion can be extended to the lighthouse of βάδας, πουlocated βρίσκεταιatστο ΣτονThe ίδιοsame προ«Livada», theβορειοανατολικό nor th-eastern άκρο coastτου of νησιού. the island. ορισµό µπορεί ναbe καταλήξει κανείς µε ting αφετηρία χωριό Μυρσίνη, που destination can reached whenκαιstar fromτο the village «Myrsini», βρίσκεται στους πρόποδες του Τσικνιά.

situated at the root of mount «Tsiknias».


PHOTO: ARISTEIDES KONTOGEORGIS

Peregrin a tion 191


192

Peregrin a tion

XYNARA - XOMBURGO - KOUMAROS - SKALADOS KROKOS - SMARDAKITO - TARAMBADOS - KAMBOS LOUTRA - PERASTRA It is a long and tiring route but following it can be worthwhile, because the tourist will have the chance to know many villages of the hinterland, passing through them and experiencing the grandeur of the natural scenery along the way. Starting from the village of «Xynara», head of the former «Xomburgo» borough, where the noble and impressive building of the Catholic archbishop stands, the sight-seer can climb up to «Xomburgo» which overhangs this village, casting its shadow imposingly. At the

PHOTO: ARISTEIDES KONTOGEORGIS

top of the castle, the panoramic view is breathtaking, while the large marble cross presents a great interest. It was erected in memory of the old church of Saint Helen that had been there. Afterwards, the road goes through «Koumaros», along the slope of the mountain «Fourka», with a view to the valley of «Komi» and its villages. Having the unique landscape of «Volax» with the huge granite rocks on his right, the hiker arrives to the nearest village, «Skalados», where he can have a coffee break or a get a soft drink at the village coffee-shop. The way down will continue to «Krokos», a picturesque village in the ravine with traditional taverns. The route afterwards becomes steep but pleasant, while it continues through a path between fields with water creeks and fruit trees. Coming across picturesque chapels, dove-cotes, threshing grounds and windmills, the tourist will reach «Smardakito», a village with nice surroundings, architecture and a cool water fountain where he can rest.


Peregrin a tion

Continuing to «Tarambados» the tourist will have the chance to enjoy the marvelous sight of the artistic dove-cotes, grouped together and considered among the biggest and the best preserved ones in the whole island. He will carry on to the nearby village of «Kambos», where he can buy wonderfully smelling loafs of bread. Further, he will reach the village of «Loutra», with citrus groves and the former convent of the Ursuline nuns and Jesuit monks. At the end, he will arrive at «Perastra», walking alongside the valley of «Komi», among oleanders and osiers, passing through stone bridges and marble-paved alleys.

KEHROVOUNI ABBEY - MOUNDADOS SBERADOS - TRIPOTA MOS - XOMBURGO This route that starts from the «Kehrovouni» abbey and ends in «Xomburgo» or vice- versa, can be compared to communicating vessels where the beginning and the end are located on the peaks of the two mountains with the same altitude. Thus, anyone that tries to walk has to expect climbing many steps, but this will be very rewarding, while besides the physical exercise, he will have enjoyed a fabulous route. From the abbey starts a cobbled twisting path, going down the slope with the fields and the innumerous terraces, the stables and the threshing grounds and ends up in the village «Moundados».

PHOTO: ARISTEIDES KONTOGEORGIS

193


Peregrin a tion

Here the tourist has the chance to visit the beautiful and picturesque village and rest a little, drinking water from the village fountain. Afterwards, passing over a stone bridge and leaving behind on his right the village of «Karya» and the hill of «Kolokithas» with the abandoned windmill, he will reach the villages «Sberados» and «Tripotamos». Both are traditional thorps, charming the visitor with several dove-cotes, marble fountains and chapels scattered around them. After the village of «Tripotamos, the road becomes steeper and coincides with the ancient road to «Xomburgo».The route, passing through the ruins of the ancient city with the remnants of the imposing ancient wall, the interesting buildings and the Sanctuary of Ceres, reaches the foothill of the rock that for centuries stood as the medieval castle of the island. Furthermore, the visit can be completed with a tour of the cloister of the «Holy Heart of Jesus», but also with the climbing of the rocky hill, for those who are able climbers.

KIONIA - KTIKADOS - SMOURDIA - VARY - POLES CHORA The two smaller paths of this route are those that connect the villages «Ktikados» and «Hatzirados» with «Kionia», a seaside touristic settlement with an ancient sanctuary, where the ruins of the Temple of Poseidon and Amphitrite exist. They are quite short and effortless walks, since they lead downhill, but they are enjoyable and offer a great view to the endless Aegean sea and the nearby island of Syros. The hiker will pass through rural roads and bridges in the vert. This part of the route is connected with the marble-paved road between «Chora” and the fortress of “Xomburgo», passing through the ruins of the ancient wall of Tinos at the location «Poles», as well as the ruins of the Peisistratus aqueduct. If someone wants to follow the whole route, one has to start from «Hatzirados» or «Ktikados», pass through the ruins of the old village and the position «Smourdia» and go down the cobbled road of «Xomburgo-Chora». PHOTO: ARISTEIDES KONTOGEORGIS

194


Peregrin a tion

FALATADOS - VOLAX - GRIZA - SKLAVOCHORIO AGAPI This route leads from the «Pano Meri» to the «Kato Meri» of Tinos, starting from the north edge of «Falatados» and particularly «Kathlikados», ending at the village of «Agapi». The ambler, after passing through a unique landscape with massive granite rocks, will arrive at the village of «Volax». A tour around the picturesque village and the purchase of traditional baskets are a must, as well as a stop at the coffee house and tavern of the little village. Afterwards, heading to the village «Griza» along the valley with the briers and oleanders, he will arrive at the village «Agapi» with PHOTO: ARISTEIDES KONTOGEORGIS the stone bridges, many dove-cotes, the prickly pear cactuses and almond trees. Through a small sidetrack, the ambler can visit the small village of «Sklavochorio», birthplace of the painter Nicholas Ghizis.

PHOTO: ARISTEIDES KONTOGEORGIS

195


196

Peregrin a tion

STENI - POTAMIA - MAROULI - LIHNAFTIA If someone visits «Steni», head village of Tinos, and likes hiking and exploring, it is preferable to follow the path that starts here and goes down to the southeastern par t of the island with an ending at the vert and the peaceful «Lihnaftia» beach. During the route he will come across the village «Potamia» with its ravines, will walk on the old road of «Tartari», after he has passed through the stone bridge and while going down to the village «Marouli», he will meet traditional PHOTO: ARISTEIDES KONTOGEORGIS dove-cotes built inside gardens. At the site called «Neromilos» it is nice to rest and see the old thorp with its watermill. The end of this route is the magical beach of «Lihnaftia» with the colorful pebbles, green waters and the view to Mykonos.

MYRSINI - PROFITIS ELIAS - TOP OF TSIKNIAS The island visitor will have a view of the entire island of Tinos if, apart from the other routes, he also follows the one that leads to the top of mount «Tsiknias»(726 m), with many myths around its name. Starting from the village «Myrsini», he takes the path to «Xokopi» that leads to the foothill of the mountain. At the location «Marmaras» the serpentine ascension starts, heading to PHOTO: ARISTEIDES KONTOGEORGIS the chapel of «Profitis Elias», and finally ending at the top of the mountain. Here, the ambler is rewarded for his choice, because the view of Tinos, the Aegean and the islands all around, is all in front of his eyes.


Peregrin a tion

DYO CHORIA - FANEROMENI - KOUNARES - (AGHIA VARVARA) - AGHIOS SOSTIS With «glysterni» (that is the lower village fountain) in Dyo Choria», as a point of departure, the foot wanderer can follow the old snaky path and go down the slope having an endless view of the sea. In the front, one can see the pastures of «Mantalous», while, all around, one can find chapels and olive groves. Arriving at the Abbey of «Faneromeni» and at the site called «Kounares», it is worth making a stop to admire the scenery and watch the ruins of the ancient thorp. After «Kounares», the route is divided into two sections: one of them leads to «Aghia Varvara» and the other one- the main route- to the picturesque port of «Aghios Sostis» with a beautiful beach.

KALLONI - AETOFOLIA - KORIS PYRGOS - STAVRIA - MONI KATAPOLIANIS - PLATIA - PYRGOS The wanderer deciding to walk this long route of great cultural interest in order to reach «Kato Meri» and «Exo Meria», will have the chance to get a unique experience, because he will discover the unexplored side of Tinos. He will walk from «Kalloni», (meaning beauty) a really pretty village, as its name reveals, and continue up to «Aetofolia» with the great view and the picturesque source. He will pass the stonebridge and will reach «Agioi Anargyri» church and «Pyrgia», where ruins of the Hellenistic era exist. PHOTO: ARISTEIDES KONTOGEORGIS

197


198

Peregrin a tion

Heading always to the north side of Tinos with the steep slopes and the wild insular nature, having on the right side the Aegean, the tourist will stop at the position «Koris Pyrgos», to enjoy the marvelous view of the dell of «Halakia» and the country cottages of an ancient thorp. During the whole route the scenery is dry, with poor vegetation and fields with the characteristic terraces, built with local rock. The next station is the Abbot of «Katapoliani» dated from the 18th century. It is located at the slope of the mountain in the area of «Ysternia» and has a great view to the villages of «Exo Meria» and a source with cool water. Afterwards the track is going down to the village of «Platia» with the war memorial, dedicated to the «Panormos» inhabitants lost in war. The final destination is «Pyrgos», the biggest village in Tinos. Here the tourist can walk through the marblepaved alleys, visit the Museums of «Halepas» and «Artists of Panormos», the School of Marble Art, the village cemetery with its impressive sculptures, the new Museum of marble Art, admire the rare lintels and rest at the picturesque square of the village with the centenarian plane-tree.

PHOTO: ARISTEIDES KONTOGEORGIS


Peregrin a tion

KARDIANI - YSTERNIA - (COAST OF YSTERNIA) VENARDADOS - PYRGOS - MARLAS - MAMADOS Having the village of «Kardiani as a point of departure, (a green village on the southwest side of Tinos that literally hangs on the slope of the mountain with an imitable view to the Aegean and Syros,) the ambler moves further on a path parallel to the provincial road to «Ysternia», a big and beautiful village with a view comparable to that of «Kardiani». Here, one can stop in order to walk through the marble-paved alleys, visit the Museum of the Artists from «Ysternia» and the ornamented cathedral of Saint Paraskevi. If he wishes and has some time to spare, he can walk down the old cobbled path with stairs to the coast of «Ysternia», where he can sit for coffee at the coffee-shop or for sea food at the taverns. Otherwise, he continues for «Pyrgos», passing through the picturesque village of «Venardados» which is located in a ravine with plane-trees. Afterwards, one can reach the biggest and most beautiful village of Tinos, «Pyrgos», and further take the old cobbled road leading to «Panormos». Later, he can follow an uphill branch of the road to the village of «Marlas» with the beautiful church of Ag. Anargyri and the neighboring monastery of Kyra-Xeni, as well as the village of «Mamados», the island’s outmost village to the west, with a great view to the channel PHOTO: ARISTEIDES KONTOGEORGIS Tinos-Andros and Andros island itself. Meanwhile, he can explore the thorp of «Ismael», which is lying in ruins.

These peregrinations through Tinos were based on information obtained from the publication «Peregrination through Tinos», with a text by Mr Tassos Anastasiou.This publication, written in three languages -Greek, English and French- was published and circulated simultaneously with an initiative related to the above topic, concerning peregrination routes in Tinos.They were organized by the Cultural Department of the Cycladic Regional Authority and aimed at preserving and highlighting the well-planned network of old cobbled roads and paths of the island.

199


ΦΩΤΟ: ΖΕΦΗ ΠΟΤΗΡΗ

PHOTO: ZEFI POTIRI


R outes

Routes

www.tinos360.gr

201


PHOTO: IOANNIS VIDALIS

202

R outes


∆ Ι Α ∆RΡoutes ΟΜΕΣ

∆ΙΑ∆ΡΟΜΕΣ ΜΕ ΑΥΤΟΚΙΝΗΤΟ ROUTES BY CAR The road network of Tinos favors the routes by car or motorcycle της chance Τήνου ευνοεί τις διαδροµές ή µηχανή, and Το theοδικό visitorδίκτυο has the to wander around µε andαυτοκίνητο explore the island και ο επισκέπτης έχει την ευκαιρία να γυρίσει και να γνωρίσει το νησί σε τρεις ή in three or more days. The routes below are recommended and enable και περισσότερες µέρες. Οι παρακάτω διαδροµές είναι προτεινόµενες και επιτρέthe tourist to guide himself around the Tinian countryside and its tradiπουν στον περιηγητή να ξεναγηθεί µόνος του και µε τον καλύτερο τρόπο στην tional villages, best way. χωριά της. τηνιακή ύπαιθροinκαιthe τα παραδοσιακά

1

TRIANDAROS - DYOΧΩΡΙΑ CHORIA - ARNADOS ΤΡΙΑΝΤΑΡΟΣ - ∆ΥΟ - ΑΡΝΑ∆ΟΣ MONASTIRI ΜΟΝΑΣΤΗΡΙ - STENI ΣΤΕΝΗ -- FALATADOS ΦΑΛΑΤΑ∆ΟΣ

ΦΩΤΟ: ΖΕΦΗ ΠΟΤΗΡΗ PHOTO: ZEFI POTIRI

Ακολουθώντας τονcalled «παλιό» - άλλοτε µοναδικόγραφικό ασφαλτόδροµο Following the so «old» picturesque asphalt road leading from που οδηγεί Χώραwe σταchoose χωριά,toεπιλέγουµε να πάµεAt προς «Chora» toαπό the τη villages, visit «Monastiri». theΜοναστήρι. exit of the harbor Town,της weπόλης comeσυναντούµε across «Saint a former abbeyµοναστήρι and now Στην έξοδο τηνParaskevi»Αγία Παρασκευή - πρώην aκαιparish church. The whole is marvelous, sinceκαθώς the scenery τώρα ενοριακό ναό. Όλη ηroute διαδροµή είναι υπέροχη, το τοπίοaround τριγύitρωisείναι magical with fields built with rock terraces, filled with olive and fig µαγευτικό µε χωράφια χτισµένα µε πέτρινα πεζούλια, γεµάτα µε ελιές trees, dovecotes and white και συκιές, περιστεριώνες chapels, bridges and ravines και κάτασπρα ξωκλήσια, γεbut also a view of «Chora» φύρια και ρεµατιές, αλλά και and the ψηλά sea. Atστη theΧώρα location θέα από και «Derafia- Kokkines eclissies» τη θάλασσα. Στη θέση «∆εwe follow the road on the ράφια-Κόκκινες Εκκλησιές» right of the intersection toακολουθούµε το δρόµο δεwards «Monastiri». The first ξιά της διασταύρωσης προς villages we encounter are Μοναστήρι. Τα πρώτα χωthe picturesque «Berdemiριά πουand συναντούµε είναι ο aros» the traditional γραφικός Μπερδεµιάρος και «Triandaros». It is worth ο παραδοσιακός αξίζει σταµατήσουµε γιαthe να περιπλανηstopping here andΤριαντάρος. wanderingΕδώ around theναnarrow alleys with arches, reθούµε στα στενά σοκάκια µε τις καµάρες, να δροσιστούµε στην κρύα βρύση, να freshing ourselves at the cool tap, watching the old olive- press equipment δούµε το at παλιό που εκτίθεται είσοδο να φάµε σε ταβέρexposed theελαιοτριβείο entrance and eating at a στην tavern in theκαι ravine or higher up. να στη ρεµατιά ή ψηλότερα µε θέα. Στη συνέχεια ανηφορίζουµε στα ∆υο ΧωAfterwards, we go up to «Dio Choria» where the unique view to the endριά, blue όπουbeguiles η µοναδική θέα στο απέραντο γαλάζιο σαγηνεύει κάθεis περαστικό. less every passer-by. An exploration of the village proposed, since this village,του apart from είναι its beauty, has a big αφού squareτοasχωριό well, with Μια εξερεύνηση χωριού προτεινόµενη, αυτό some εκτός old their thick shadow. Next station is the neighboring από plane-trees γραφικότηταcasting και οµορφιά διαθέτει µεγάλη πλατεία µε γέρικους πλατάνους «Arnados». It is one of theστάση most traditional villages of the island, with many που τη σκιάζουν. Επόµενη είναι ο γειτονικός Αρνάδος. Πρόκειται για arches and arcades. There, we can pay our respects to the church of, called έναν από τους πιο παραδοσιακούς οικισµούς του νησιού, µε πολλές καµάρες «Panaidaki», little Madonna) hidden in a crypt. We can visit museums και στοές, το (The κατανυκτικό «Παναϊδάκι» κρυµµένο σε κρύπτη, µουσεία, αλλά και and eat at taverns with a great view. Following the road, we reach the Conταβέρνες µε ωραία θέα. Ακολουθώντας το δρόµο φτάνουµε στο Μοναστήρι

vent of the «Lady of Angels» in «Kehrovouni».

203 203


R outes

Here, you must have a little time at your disposal, to visit the convent and wander around the narrow alleys taken care of by nuns, in order to worship the skull of Saint Pelaghia (the nun that dreamt of finding the Annunciation Icon) and buy souvenirs handmade by the nuns. The route continues through the path on the mountain slope. On the left lies the green village of «Karya», which we can visit going down an old path, while subsequently there are the villages of «Tzados» and «Kehros». At the five street crossroads called «Pentostrato», we will turn right towards «Steni», a central village with the cathedrals of Saint Nicholas and Saint Anthony and we will visit its museum with the rare exhibits. We will continue a little further to the picturesque and green villages of «Myrsini», with the public fountains combined with an open air laundry for the villagers and finally arrive to «Potamia» with the old dovecotes, watermills and the threshing-grounds in the dell. Afterwards we can return to «Pentostrato», passing through the village «Mesi» heading right, towards «Falatados», the second biggest village of the island, outstretched on the hillside, where we will walk through narrow alleys paved with slabs, visit its cathedral with the high dome, the museums, but also taverns that serve traditional delicacies. If you wish, you can visit «Xomburgo», on top of the rocky hill with the Catholic Monastery of the «Holy Heart of Jesus» and climb up to the top with the fantastic view, walking through the Castle ruins. PHOTO: ZEFI POTIRI

204

PHOTO: ZEFI POTIRI


R outes

TRIPOTAMOS - KTIKADOS - XYNARA - LOUTRA VOLAX - KOMI - KALLONI

PHOTO: ZEFI POTIRI

With «Chora», the harbor town as a starting point and going up the so called «new» road we are heading to «Pyrgos».Apart from the Tinian countryside with the terraces and the flocks that graze in the fields, the artificial water reservoir of «Vaketa» is impressive, seeming like a little lake near the town.After a 5 km drive, we meet «Tripotamos» with many dove-cotes scattered around the village.The village is genuinely picturesque and is worth visiting.The modern philosopher Cornelius Castoriadis had chosen to live here.The intersection on the right leads to the pretty villages of «Karia» and «Moundados». After taking the road on the left towards «Pyrgos», we pass beside some old windmills and the island’s dairy factory, where the tasty cheese varieties are produced. After a

short distance, (about 1 km) we arrive at the villages «Ktikados» and «Hatzirados».A stop for coffee and food with a view of the seaside settlement «Kionia» is advisable, before going on with the trip towards the hinterland. Afterwards, when meeting a crossroads, we turn right and are led to the historic village of «Xynara» on the western slope of «Xomburgo». The Catholic Archbishop was based here, in an impressive public building with considerable archives.This building housed the municipal office in the past. Hence, we reach the nearby village of «Loutra» with the historical Convent of the «Ursuline» nuns and the Monastery of Jesuit monks.

205


206

R outes

Here, the stop is advised, since the tourist has several sites to visit i.e. the museums of the village and its green surroundings. Continuing and turning right at the intersection, we go up to the villages «Skalados» with the magical view to the valley of «Komi», «Koumaros» at the foothill of the mountain «Fourka», and «Volax» with the inimitable geological scenery that impresses with the massive weather-beaten rocks scattered everywhere. Here, you can meet the last craftsmen left that create a variety of baskets woven with a unique expertise. Returning to the main road we turn right towards «Krokos», a village placed in the ravine with the shadowy plane-trees and the taverns that invite the visitor to taste some PHOTO: ZEFI POTIRI traditional treats. Continuing on the same road and at a short distance we turn to the right on a secondary road leading up to the abandoned village of «Monastiria», that is in ruins, but retains its beauty. At the end of the road, there is the small but picturesque village of «Sklavochorio». After this compulsory deviation we return to the central road and we reach «Komi» coming across the village of «Perastra» on our left, which is built in the ravine with stone-built bridges. A little further to the right, we visit the village «Agapi» with the running waters, the distinctive architecture and the beautiful church dell. If we continue, we are led to «Vourniotissa», a monastery with myths woven around its holy image. Returning again to the main road, we will reach «Komi» a head village that is located in the most extended valley of Tinos, with numerous fruit trees and rich agricultural production. From here, you can go to the beautiful beach of «Kolymbithra» where, after an unforgettable swim, you will also enjoy fresh sea food at the tavern overlooking the waves. A little further from «Komi», there are the villages «Kato Klisma» and «Aetofolia». Reaching the end of the route, we pass «Karkados» on our right with the canted bell tower of its church and we end our trip in «Kalloni», one of the biggest and most beautiful villages of Tinos.


R outes

Vourniotissa It is an abbey that is located at a distance of 4 km from the village «Agapi», with a view to the Aegean and «Kolymbithra». This monastery is dedicated to Virgin Mary «Vourniotissa» whose miraculous icon is kept in the Abbey of «Kehrovouni». Its celebration is held on the 8th of September, the day when, as it is said, the icon was found through a miracle. Someone that lived nearby saw light on the sea one night. When he went closer, he found a clay-jar with an icon inside it. He transported it up to a certain point and then it became too heavy to be lifted. He concluded, therefore, that Virgin Mary wanted to stay there. On this spot, where the chapel of Saint John already existed, a big church was built, which today has a marble floor, a wooden chancel screen and attracts crowds of believers.

KAMBOS - TARAMBADOS - KARDIANI - YSTERNIA - PYRGOS - PANORMOS

PHOTO: ZEFI POTIRI

This route is special, due to crossing over the whole southern side of the island, having always the endless blue sea on the left and the extended, rocky and windswept areas on the right.This is one more beautiful and magical part of Tinos.With the innumerable terraces, the wind-scuffed rocks and the white chapels spread all around, the environment is very pleasing and gratifying for the visitors. Starting from «Chora», the harbour town, we follow the new road leading to «Exo Meri» (Pyrgos) and passing by the villages of «Tripotamos» and «Ktikados», we take the street that is parallel to the sea. The first village that we come across is «Kambos», with the church of Saint Catherine, erected by the Russians while they ruled the island.A stop here, to buy fresh tasty crackers and warm bread, is a must. Afterwards, the exploration of the nearby villages of «Smardakito» and «Tarambados» is a pleasant experience. Those villages preserve their traditional color and conquer the visitor`s heart.

207


208

R outes

Close to the last village, Tarambados, there is a group of the biggest and most beautiful dove-cotes, which is advisable to explore and photograph. The next section of the road is different, later on, because villages are absent and the scenery changes into infertile windswept soil, its main characteristics being the terraces, the rocks, the small chapels scattered here and there and the flocks of sheep. After a ten minute drive we will stop to admire a weird rock at a road’s nook. It is sculptured by the winds and its shape reminds us of a giant mushroom or an umbrella. The next village we meet is «Kardiani». It literally hangs on the rock, while the water creeks flowing in the area have transformed the scenery into a little green paradise-like oasis. The cool source that refreshes us, but mainly the village itself, are the island’s jewels that deserve a pleasant stop for a stroll. The next village «Ysternia» is one of the biggest and most beautiful villages of the island; it will be our next stop.We will walk through the marbleclad alleys, admire the architecture of the houses and have some coffee at the village coffee-house.A little further, on top of the hill, there are many old windmills lined one beside the other, as remnants of the past commercial activity of wheat-grinding in that area. The scenery here is ideal for taking pictures and exploring the beautiful surroundings. Not far from there, after passing through the villages of «Platia» and «Venardados», we reach the village of «Pyrgos», the biggest village of the

PHOTO: IOANNIS VIDALIS


R outes

island but also the most important, since it has been the birthplace of many famous artists. The village itself is very noteworthy, with the picturesque marble-paved paths, traditional houses and sculptured details, that are builtin everywhere. There are two impressive churches, some museums, a cemetery with marble works of art, but also a beautiful and hospitable square, with the big old plane-tree that casts a wide and thick shadow over the tables of the surrounding coffee-houses. After an extended walk and a stop for coffee and confectionery at the square of «Pyrgos», we move to its seaport, «Panormos». We will stop here for a swim in one of the beautiful beaches that surround the small port, but also for seafood at one of the picturesque taverns. If we want, we can visit the nearby villages of «Marlas» and «Mamados», which are the most far-away villages of Tinos, as well as the old Abbey of «Kyra- Xeni», near «Marlas».

KYRA - XENI

PHOTO: ZEFI POTIRI

Near the village «Marlas» there is the Monastery of «KyraXeni», which was being built from 1732 until 1756. According to tradition, a ship coming from the straights of «Dardanellia» was in danger outside «Panormos», because of a storm.The captain and the crew prayed to Virgin Mary to save them, while the captain also promised to become a monk.As a matter of fact, when the ship was sinking and they fell into the sea, he found in the waves an icon of Virgin Mary (according to another version, he had it with him on the ship) and she asked him to carry it ashore. After being rescued, he went to «Marlas» and sat down to rest. When he got up to leave, the icon was too heavy to be lifted. He realised then that he should built a church right on that spot. He built it, after selling his property and dedicated it to Virgin Mary «Kyra-Xeni» (the Lady from afar).The captain became a monk taking the name Kallinikos and lived there the rest of his life.Today «Kyra- Xeni» is celebrated on the first Sunday after the 15th of August and people come to visit from all over Tinos.

209


210

R outes

ΙΣΜΑΗΛ ISMAIL MAMA∆OΣ MAMADOS

MAPΛAΣ MARLAS ΠANOPMOΣ PANORMOS ΡΟΧΑΡΗ ROCHARI ΠYPΓOΣ PIRGOS

BENAP∆A∆OΣ VENARDADOS

Π. ΒΑΘΥ B. VATHI ΠΛATIA PLATIA

ΥΣΤΕΡΝΙΑ ISTERNIA

ΚΟΡΗΣ ΠΥΡΓΟΣ KORIS PYRGOS Μ. Καταπολιανής M. Katapolianis

ΟΡΜΟΣ ΥΣΤΕΡΝΙΩΝ ORMOS ISTERNION

ΠΟΛΕΜΟΥ ΚΑΜΠΟΣ POLEMOU KAMPOS KAP∆IANH KARDIANI Π. ΟΡΜΟΣ KAP∆IANHΣ ORMOS KARDIANIS

Π. AG.


R outes

Προφ. Ηλίας Prof. Elias ΚΟΛΥΜΠΗΘΡΑ KOLIMBITHRA

Κακή Σκάλα Kaki Skala

Βουρνιότισσα Vourniotisa

AETOΦΩΛIA AETOFOLIA

ΠΕΤΡΙΑΔΟΣ PETRIADOS

KAPKA∆OΣ KARKADOS AΓAΠH AGHAPI

KAΛΛONH KALONI

ΑΓ. ΡΩΜΑΝΟΣ ΑΓ. Π. ΡΩΜΑΝΟΣ . ROMANOS B. AG. ROMANOS B.

KΩMH KOMI

KPOKOΣ KROKOS ΛOYTPA LOUTRA

ΣMAP∆AKITO SMARDAKITO

ΛΙΒΑ∆Α LIVADA

ΣKΛABOXΩPI SKLAVOCHORI

ΠEPAΣTPA PERASTRA

ΣKAΛA∆OΣ SKALADOS BΩΛAΞ VOLAX ΦAΛATA∆OΣ FALATADOS

MYPΣINH MIRSINI KOYMAPOΣ KOUMAROS MEΣH ΞINAPA MESI TZA∆OΣ XINARA ΣTENH TZADOS KEXPOΣ KECHROS STENI KAPYA KARIA ΠOTAMIA MONAΣTHPI POTAMIA TPIΠOTAMOΣ MONASTIRI TRIPOTAMOS APNA∆OΣ ΣΠEPA∆OΣ ARNADOS MOYNTA∆OΣ SPERADOS ∆YO XΩPIA MOUNTADOS DIO CHORIA

ΟΡ. ΤΣΙΚΝΙΑΣ M.T. TSIKNIAS

ΟΡ. ΕΞΩΜΒΟΥΡΓΟ MT. EXOMVOURGO

TAPAMΠA∆OΣ TARAMPADOS KAMΠOΣ KAMPOS XATZIPA∆OΣ CHATZIRADOS KTIKA∆OΣ KTIKADOS

MΠEP∆EMIAPOΣ BERDEMIAROS

ΚΙΟΝΙΑ KIONIA

ΛΥΧΝΑΦΤΙΑ LICHNAFTIA

TPIANTAPOΣ TRIANTAROS

ΤΗΝΟΣ TINOS ΑΓ. ΙΩΑΝ. ΠOPTO AG. IOANNIS PORTO ΑΓ. ΦΩΚΑΣ AG. FOKAS

ΑΓ. ΣΩΣΤΗΣ AG. SOSTIS

211


212

R outes

OFF ROAD ROUTES (BY JEEPS AND ENDURO MOTORCYCLES) The road network of Tinos is over 1000 km, with 600 km of this being a dirt road. The island, apart from its other virtues, is a small heaven for the visitors that want to discover it by Jeep or Enduro motorcycles. The routes below are the most popular, and the visitor must know that the dirt roads and the paths one can follow are widely spread.

I

AROUND MOUNTAIN «TSIKNIAS»

Starting from the village «Steni» the visitor can follow the dirt road which also has some asphalt parts, to visit the highest mountain of Tinos. The road is level and the scenery magical, since on one side there is the imposing fog-covered mountain that casts its shadow, while on the other one there is a wide sea view. From here, the island of Mykonos can be seen very clearly. In addition to the trip around «Tsiknias», the ambler can climb to the top only on an Enduro motorcycle or very tough Jeep, or else on foot. The route is very rocky and one must pay attention, but whoever follows it, has the chance to enjoy the wild natural rocky landscape and be rewarded by the panoramic view. At the top of the mountain there is the church of «Profitis Elias» at an altitude of 714 m. The enthusiastic bikers should know that they have the opportunity to follow every path they find, exploring the mountain and its secrets that way.

PHOTO: IOANNIS VIDALIS


R outes

II PETRIADOS - FALATADIANA

PHOTO: IOANNIS VIDALIS

By taking this route, the tourist has the chance to meet the unknown northern part of the island with the inimitable view and the round granite rocks spread all over the place, making the site seem fantastic. The choices are many, while the ambler is not limited to follow only one route. With a Jeep and the village «Falatados» as a starting point, one can move to «Kakia Skala» and the church of Virgin Mary. Another route connects «Vourniotissa»

with «Kolymbithra» beach and «Exo Meri». This could be accomplished by motorcycle but even by a tough Jeep in the past, but lately the same road was partially paved with asphalt.Again, the choises are many and the driver has the opportunity to change tracks to any destination through paths or dirt roads.

III POLEMOU KAMBOS (WAR - FIELD) This route is special because it is an errantry in the largest plateau of the island. Here the scenery is mountainous and arid with widespread wild brushwood, while any kind of human presence is absent. The chaotic place needs a local guide. Driving a Jeep one can move to Saint Panteleimonas, a catholic church with a great view, using the village of «Aetofolia» as a departure point and wander around the plateau. On the contrary, the enduro motorcycle driver has the opportunity to choose any destination around the mountainous bulge and follow any path. The final destination could be to the NE, at the church called “of the second Finding of the Icon”, above the village «Ysternia».

213


R outes ∆ ΙΑ∆ΡΟΜΕΣ

∆ IV ΣΤΕΝΟ IV STENO-- ΠΡΑΣΙΝΑ PRASINAΜΑΡΜΑΡΑ MARMARA (GREEN MARBLES) Και ηroute, διαδροµή αυτή, όπως και οι προηγούµενες είναιthe ενδιαφέρουσα, This like the previous ones, is interesting and ambler will εφόσον ο περιηγητής θα γνωρίσει το Β∆ άκρο της Τήνου. Με τζιπ η µετάβαση reach the NW edge of Tinos. By Jeep, the way to the «Tinos-Andros» προς το Στενό Τήνου-Άνδρου σχετικά καθώς τελευταία ανοίχτηchannel is quite easy, while είναι lately a dir tεύκολη, road has been opened (forκε ευρύς χωµατόδροµος (παλαιότερα η διαδροµή ήταν πιο δύσκολη, επειδή ο merly the route was much more difficult due to the gnarled old road). παλιός δρόµος ήταν κακοτράχαλος). Το τοπίο είναι άγριο και η πλαγιά απόThe scenery is wild and the slope threatening, while the road is located τοµη και απειλητική, αφού ο δρόµος βρίσκεται στο χείλος του γκρεµού, µε τη on the edge of the crag with the sea spreading magically beneath. On θάλασσα να απλώνεται από κάτω µαγευτική. Με µηχανή η εξερεύνηση του τοa motorcycle the exploration of this site is easier, while there are many πίου είναι ευκολότερη, καθώς υπάρχουν πολλές εναλλακτικές λύσεις. Μάλιστα, alternative routes. Besides reaching the pretty lighthouse that reminds εκτός του προορισµού στον όµορφο Φάρο που αναδίδει αναµνήσεις κάποιας us of old times, the beaches «Mali» and «Koumelas», the παλιάς εποχής, ή τιςorπαραλίες Μαλί-Κουµελάς, ο περιηγητής µπορεί να ambler µεταβεί can move on to reach «Profitis Elias», a church on the mountain peak, στον Προφήτη Ηλία, εκκλησάκι στην κορυφή του οµώνυµου βουνού µέσω through a narrow path. Here, the beautiful view to the nearby villages στενού µονοπατιού. Εδώ, η πανέµορφη θέα στα γύρω χωριά και τη θάλασσα and the sea gratifies theανάβαση. adventurous climber. δικαιώνει τη ριψοκίνδυνη

ΦΩΤΟ: ΓΙΑΝΝΗΣ ΒΙ∆ΑΛΗΣ

214 214

PHOTO: ARISTEIDES KONTOGEORGIS

Οι διαδροµές εδώ... ΌπωςTinos προαναφέρθηκε, η ΤήThe routes doόµως not δεν endτελειώνουν here...As mentioned, is ideal for walkνος προσφέρεται για περιπλάνηση χωµατόing through innumerable paths µέσω or dirαναρίθµητων t roads and µονοπατιών invites the ήvisitor to δροµων και προσκαλεί τον επισκέπτη να την εξερευνήσει. explore it.


PHOTO: ARISTEIDES KONTOGEORGIS

R outes 215


ΦΩΤΟ: ΑΡΙΣΤΕΙ∆ΗΣ ΚΟΝΤΟΓΕΩΡΓΗΣ PHOTO: ARISTEIDES KONTOGEORGIS


A LT E R N AT I V E T O U R I S M

Alternative Tourism

www.tinos360.gr

217


218

A LT E R N AT I V E T O U R I S M

Tinos is the ideal destination for any visitor. Apart from the historical remnants, the traditions and the cultural activity, there is a great potential in other forms of tourism that can satisfy even the most demanding visitor.

FISHING The island, as most Cycladic islands, is offered for fishing. This can be underwater fishing for well equipped fishermen, but also from land with a rod or a fishing-line. The fish var y depending on the season and the area and consist mainly of “sargos�, blackfish, John Dor y, rockfish and squids. PHOTO: DIMITRIS KORRES PHOTO: ARISTEIDES KONTOGEORGIS


PHOTO: IOANNIS VIDALIS

A LT E R N AT I V E T O U R I S M

DIVING There is a diving school on the island. Those interested should be informed about where they could dive legally. Tinos has many sea caves and wrecks which are worth visiting and being explored.

HUNTING Game varies according to the season. A hunter on Tinos can hunt for partridges, rabbits, turtle doves and quails. There is a Hunting Association on the island, that is taking care of pray breeding and sees to the cultivation of fields, so the wild animals can find food.Take notice of the fact that there are areas where hunting is forbidden.

HIKING The mountains and the weather-beaten rocky summits are ideal for hiking. The most popular places for this sport are the rock of «Xomburgo» but also the giant granite rocks scattered around the landscape of «Volax» and «Livada».

219


PHOTO: EVELYN FOSKOLOU


AC K N OW L E D G E M E N T S

For the composition of the book you are holding in your hands, I have used the help of many of my fellow citizens, alongside with my knowledge of the place I come from, and the sources I consulted. A lot of space would be needed to thank every single person who, with great generosity and smile devoted their time and their knowledge to help me, alongside with the authorities of the island which eagerly helped me in everything I asked for. Individually, I would like to thank Mr. Stefanos Delatolas and Mr. Stefanos Ghiaghias for the valuable information they have given me, as well as the Catholic Priest Father Marco Foscolo, for the documents regarding the archives of the Catholic Archbishop. Furthermore, Mr. Savvas Aperghis, on account of his birthplace, Triandaros and its customs, as well as the games Tinia of 1895, but also Mrs Angeliki Moraitou-Gyftogianni for material concerning the “Upper Places” (Pano Meri) of Tinos. Heartfelt thanks to Professor Aristides Kontogeorgis for his unique photographs he generously let us use, to Mr. Tassos Anastasiou for his essential contribution and recommendations for the peregrinations (Odoiporika), to Mr. Giannis Psaltis for my acquaintance with the dovecotes and the initiatives of “The friends of Greenery”. (Fili tou prasinou), to the personnel of the archaeological museum of Tinos for their prompt response when I needed them, to Mr. Frederick Printezi for the precious information on the off road tracks. I also express my gratitude to Father Sebastian Freri, for information and suggestions concerning the village of Loutra and the cloister of Jesuits, and to Mrs Nicoletta Delatolla-Foskolou, for her traditional recipes. Moreover, I owe thanks to Mr. Nicos Ghizis for his manifold and generous support, Mrs. Ana Petrova for her general contribution and help, to the High School Principal Mr. George Amiralis for his appropriate remarks and tips and to Mr. Nicos Varthalitis, employee of Typokykladiki, for his patience and valuable help during the lay-out and design of this guide-book. In conclusion, I would like to thank Mr. John Vidalis, who sustained me both morally and economically in this attempt of mine, but most of all my parents who never stop encouraging and aiding me in every venture of mine. I warmly thank them all. Zefi Potiri


222

USEFUL TELEPHONE NUMBERS

AREA CODE: �+30� 22830 POSTCODE: 84200

MUNICIPALITY OF TINOS:

ROOMS FOR RENT ASSOCIATION

ΦΩTO: EBEΛYN ΦΩΣKOΛOY

22344, 23548 CAMPING POLICE: HEALTH CENTER: TOURIST POLICE: TOURIST INFORMATION CENTER: TINOS PORT AUTHORITY: PIRAEUS PORT AUTHORITY: RAFINA PORT AUTHORITY: FIRE DEPARTMENT: TAX OFFICE: SOCIAL INSURANCE INSTITUTION: PUBLIC ELECTRICITY COMPANY: TELECOMMUNICATIONS ORGANIZATION: LAND REGISTRY OFFICE: BUSES: TAXI: 51888 Wi - Fi

TΗΛ: FAX: ΚΕΠ:

2283360100 2283360139 2283360300 PHARMACIES:

CHORA:

PYRGOS: ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM OF TINOS: FOUNDATION OF HOLY MARY’S ANNUNCIATION: SCHOOL OF FINE ARTS AT PANORMOS: CULTURAL FOUNDATION OF TINOS: COSTAS TSOKLIS MUSEUM AT KAMPOS: 2283031290 MUSEUM OF MARBLE CRAFTS AT PYRGOS: 2283051009


BIBLIOGRAPHY • Amiralis G., “Tiniakes Parousies. Istoria-Laografia”, Adelfotis Tinion en Athinais, Athens 2000.

• Georgantopoulos E., “Tiniaka”, Adelfotis Tinion en Athinais, Athens 1971.

• Delatolla-Foskolou N., “Kykladon Gefseis”, Tinos 2006. • Delatolas St., “Adelfoi Lampaki”, Mountados, Athens 2006. • Delatolas St., “Ioannis Platis”, Athens 2005. • Drosos Dr., “Istoria Nissou Tinou”, PIIET, Athens 1996. • Dorizas G., “Archaia Tinos”, Athens 1974. • Dorizas G., “Mesaioniki Tinos”, Ahtens 1976. • Dorizas G., “Nea Tinos”, Athens 1981. • Koutelakis Ch., “Tinos Archaia-Christianiki”, PIIET-Adelfotis Tinion, Athens 2001.

• Linardos P.-Delatolas St., “Tinia 1895”, Dimos Tinou 2002. • Florakis A., “Tinos: Laikos Politismos”, Ell.Vivlio, Athina 1971. • Foskolos Markos p., “Tinos: Istoria –Politismos”, Dimos Exomvourgou, Tinos 2006 (A&B)


PHOTO: ARISTEIDES KONTOGEORGIS






“bourou”tavern

Kionia - Tinos | t. 22830 25760


GRAPHIC ARTS, PUBLICATIONS & ADVERTISING PANAGIOTIS TOUFEKLIS

TROHANI 7, GR - 84200 TINOS • TEL: (+30) 2283025727 • FAX: (+30) 2283023726 info@typos-press.gr • www.typos-press.gr


NOTES


NOTES


Issuu converts static files into: digital portfolios, online yearbooks, online catalogs, digital photo albums and more. Sign up and create your flipbook.