überdog magazine

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032 Surfing Article V03.qxp

3/7/11

17:34

Page 32

SURFING

SAFE SURFING & WATER ETIQUETTE By Iain Gilmour

s we all know surfing has exploded in popularity on Irish shores over the past few years, and with summertime now upon us and more people taking to the water than ever before what should surfers new to the sport and some of those who should know better be aware of in the water? There are several unwritten rules to surfing that if you follow them will ensure you have a fun safe session. MAKE SURE that you are a good swimmer and that you are aware of the sea so you can identify rips, wind changes and other hazards. IF YOU ARE UNFAMILIAR with a break, check with the local surfers. Ensure the waves are suitable for your ability. You will get more enjoyment out of surfing small waves as a beginner. Only when you feel confident on small waves should you try bigger waves. Beginners should always surf with more experienced surfers for safety. MAKE SURE your equipment is in optimum condition, especially your leash. If you do happen to find yourself in difficulty in the water try not to panic. Remember that your surfboard and wet-suit will act as floatation devices.

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There are several unwritten rules to surfing that, if you follow them, will ensure you have a fun, safe session

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Safe Surfing WHEN YOU WIPE OUT, don't come to the surface too soon, allow your board time to land and come to the surface with your hands protecting your head. When paddling out, never obstruct a surfer who is up and riding a wave. Either paddle wide of the shoulder or into the white water. YOU SHOULD NEVER ever ‘Drop In’ on another surfer. ‘Dropping In’ is taking off on a wave in front of someone who has right of way. The surfer nearest to the peak has priority/right of way. if any two or more surfers catch the same wave the surfer(s) furthest from the peak should pull up off the wave and let the surfer closest to the peak ride the wave. YOU SHOULD BE at all times aware of all other surfers and water users. Respect the line-up and the other people in the water.

Rip Currents Each year dozens of people swimmers and surfers will get caught in a rip current along Ireland’s coast, so what exactly is a rip and how would you recognise it? A rip current is formed by water along the shoreline finding the point of least resistance as it returns to the sea, this forms a feeder channel

A view of a rip from above, they can be identified by looking for discoloured water from sand churned off the bottom

which creates an outgoing current that will eventually subside approximately 100 metres or more out to sea. Rips can be identified by looking for discoloured water from sand churned off the bottom, or an area where there seems to be no waves breaking with surf breaking either side of it. On calmer days you would also be able to see a rippled appearance on the surface when the water around would be calm. So what do you do if you’re stuck in a rip? Firstly don’t panic, never paddle towards the shore as you will be

going against the current and will tire yourself out. Many people have lost their lives by doing this. Instead paddle parallel to the shore and you will soon get out of the current as rips tend not to be too wide generally 20 to 30 metres. If you really can’t paddle your way out of it and you see people on the beach raise both hands above your head and wave so that your arms cross. NEVER leave your board and try to swim for it! It is your lifeline in this situation. Follow these basic steps and your water time will be safe and enjoyable. Remember if in doubt don’t go out! o

Iain Gilmour is a Level 2 ISA Surf Coach and qualified RLSS Beach Lifeguard with 30 years surfing experience.

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