PUBLICATION LICENSED BY DUBAI PRODUCTION CITY, DCCA
EDITION 54
WOMEN IN THE CULINARY FIELD
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CELEBRITY CHEF INTERVIEWS
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SUSTAINABLE COOKING
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EDITORIAL EDITOR: Nicola Monteath nicola.monteath@cpimediagroup.com DIGITAL EDITOR: Serena Botelho e Warren serena.warren@cpimediagroup.com ADVERTISING SALES MANAGER: Liz Smyth liz.smyth@cpimediagroup.com BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT MANAGER: Diarmuid O'Malley diarmuid.omalley@cpimediagroup.com prochef.sales@cpimediagroup.com DESIGN Froilan A. Cosgafa IV
EDITOR'S NOTE
Welcome Summer in Dubai looks slightly different this year, and now that more countries have reopened their borders, a lot of us are escaping the heat. Nevertheless, there’s plenty going on in the city, and country, with exciting concepts, menu additions, restaurant launches and more. In this issue, we speak with legendary butcher and chef, Dario Cecchini, who recently opened Carna at SLS Dubai, where he uses the entirety of the animal in his dishes (p18). You will also discover a day in the life of Chef Alessandro Miceli – Executive Chef, Bella Restaurant and Lounge and Partner at Gr8 Hospitality, where he discusses everything from a positive mindset to how he preps his agenda for the day ahead (p16).
FOR OTHER ENQUIRIES, PLEASE VISIT: www.theprochefme.com FOUNDER CPI MEDIA GROUP Dominic De Sousa (1959-2015)
Our cover story sheds light on women in the culinary industry, highlighting the challenges and rewards within the male-dominated space. Turn to page 20 to read what Chefs Anne Laure Morisset Dutel and Silvena Rowe have to say. As always, we have recipes and the latest news for chefs, independent restaurateurs and those within the F&B space. Happy reading!
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Edition 54 / The Pro Chef Middle East
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20 CONTENTS 5 NEWS BITES
Culinary news from the Middle East and beyond. Discover new chef appointments, upcoming hospitality events, expansion plans and more.
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DINING IN THE COUNTRY
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CHEF’S SPECIAL
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A DAY IN THE LIFE OF…
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THE LEGENDARY BUTCHER
Explore the latest summer menus and new restaurant openings in the UAE.
We follow stunning, inventive creations on menus across the country. Chef Alessandro Miceli – Executive Chef, Bella Restaurant and Lounge and Partner at Gr8 Hospitality.
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The Pro Chef Middle East / Edition 54
Chef Dario Cecchini discusses the launch of Carna Dubai and his cooking philosophy.
THE PRO CHEF MIDDLE EAST
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WOMEN IN THE CULINARY WORLD
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CEO TALK
Chefs Anne Laure and Silvena Rowe delve into their past and present experiences within the F&B field.
A chat with Walid Hajj, Co-Founder and CEO of Kitch, about Cloud Kitchens, industry disruption and work-life balance.
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MEET THE DISTRIBUTOR
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FUSION FLAIR
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A CHAMPION OF SUSTAINABILITY
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AROUND THE WORLD
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Joanie Dall’anese, Head of Marketing at Chef Middle East (UAE, Qatar and Oman) introduces us to the establishment that caters to leading hotels and restaurants.
Head Chef Avneesh Gautama from the newly opened Dialogue at Majestic Hotel, shares two modern Indian recipes.
Celebrity Chef Norbert Niederkofler shares a recipe from his ‘Cook the Mountain’ menu, which led him and St Hubertus, Rosa Alpina Hotel and Spa, to win their third Michelin star.
Stay up-to-date with current F&B news at key locations.
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CULINARY NEWS FROM THE MIDDLE EAST AND BEYOND
THE WORLD’S 50 BEST RESTAURANTS IS COMING TO THE MIDDLE EAST & NORTH AFRICA 50 Best will launch the highly anticipated Middle East & North Africa's 50 Best Restaurants, with the awards being held in Abu Dhabi. The launch will mark the first time, since 2013, that 50 Best unveils a new regional restaurants list and awards programme. The event programme will be hosted in partnership with the Department of Culture and Tourism – Abu Dhabi from February 4-11th, as part of the Abu Dhabi Culinary Calendar, with the gala awards ceremony taking place on February 7th. The inaugural list of Middle East & North Africa’s 50 Best Restaurants will be revealed in a live countdown, along with a series of special awards, culminating with the announcement of The Best Restaurant in the Middle East & North Africa 2022. The ranking will reflect the best restaurant experiences collated from 250 voters, made up of anonymous restaurant experts from 19 countries across the region.
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MARK YOUR CALENDAR Gulfood Manufacturing, the MEASA region’s largest food and beverage processing and packaging industry event, is back from November 7-9 2021 at Dubai World Trade Centre. This year, the event will witness four leading shows under one roof. Make your way towards Yummex Middle East, the leading trade fair for producers and manufacturers within the sweets, confectionery and snacks industries. Speciality Food Festival will host powerful collaborations while highlighting the latest discoveries in the gourmet market. Expect everything from artisan produce to speciality beverages, food services and more. If you’re a restaurateur, or launching a new F&B brand, and looking to connect with private label suppliers, brand licensors and contract manufacturers, add the Private Label & Licensing Middle East show to your agenda. For more information on Gulfood Manufacturing and the other shows, visit gulfoodmanufacturing.com.
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TH E C OUN TR Y
GIANFRANCO PIRRONE JOINS VANITAS Sicilian chef Gianfranco Pirrone takes on the role of Chef de cuisine at Vanitas, the much-loved Italian fine dining restaurant at Palazzo Versace Dubai. Born in Calatafimi, a small town in the province of Trapani, Sicily, Gianfranco Pirrone began his culinary journey in the early 2000s as a pizza chef at Gallini’s restaurant in Wales. Ever since, Gianfranco has climbed the ladder with roles at Harrods in London, Club Med in Cefalu, Sicily, Sedona Hotel in Burma, The Rania Experience in the Maldives and the Grand Mercure Park Avenue in Thailand, followed by a stint at La Buvette in Rome. At Vanitas, chef Gianfranco seeks to bring his Sicilian heritage to the table, with a refined twist to the region. The menu will feature flavours, aromas and memories of his childhood seen in dishes such as black truffle pizza, grilled octopus, linguine with sea urchins and mullet bottarga inspired by the Italian coast, spinach tagliolini with parmigiano cream, pasteurized egg and shaved truffle.
MIDDLE EAST AND GULF COUNTRIES FOCUS ON TUTTOFOOD 2021 Visitors from the Middle East and Gulf Countries will be in the spotlight at TUTTOFOOD 2021, held simultaneously with HostMilano at the fieramilano exhibition centre from October 22-26th. This quality-oriented edition will bring together buyers and visitors, to meet with more than 600 exhibitors from Italy and around the world, starting with Europe. Among the most represented countries are Belgium, the Netherlands, Portugal, Spain, with participants also from the UK and Ireland, Germany, France, Nordic Countries and Eastern Europe (Czech Republic, Romania, Hungary). Outside Europe, interesting presences are confirmed from Asia (India), Middle East and North Africa
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(Egypt, Turkey), North and South America (USA, Peru, Uruguay). Particularly noteworthy this year is the presence of multi-country booths, such as Eat Nordic (Denmark, Norway, and Finland) and Balkans (Slovenia, Serbia, and Kosovo). For chefs, the collaboration between TUTTOFOOD and APCI, the Professional Association of Italian Chefs, will include show-cooking and a real Academy with numerous VIP moments. The programme will also feature two “plazas”, the Retail Plaza dedicated to innovative solutions in large-scale distribution and retail, and the Evolution Plaza focused on digital innovation. This year’s latest feature will be the TUTTOFRUIT area, dedicated to fresh fruit and vegetables and to product innovations in the IV and V ranges, which adds to the sections launched in recent editions such as TUTTOHEALTH, TUTTODIGITAL and more. The 2021 edition will also present an organic focus on established sectors: TUTTODAIRY, TUTTODRINK, TUTTOFROZEN, TUTTOGROCERY, TUTTOHEALTH, TUTTOMEAT, TUTTOOIL, TUTTOPASTA, TUTTOSEAFOOD, TUTTOSWEET, TUTTOWORLD. For more information, visit www.tuttofood.it/en/
The Leading Sweets & Snacks Event for the Middle East & North Africa Region
Do business in one of the world’s most well-connected and thriving F&B markets.
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LIMESTONE LAB LAUNCHES IN THE UAE
The restart for the entire Ho.re.ca. Industry is at HostMilano (fieramilano, October 22 to 26, 2021). The 42nd edition will have additional features, thanks to the simultaneous holding of TUTTOFOOD and the possibility of exploiting system synergies between hospitality and the agri-food ecosystem. Expect to meet top players in the hospitality industry, flagships of Made in Italy and suppliers from all over the globe. This edition will showcase 1,000 registered exhibitors from 40 countries, as well as multiple high-profile buyers. You can take a close look and touch the most modern equipment, make new acquaintances and discuss trending topics: from sustainability and the Internet of Things to Artificial Intelligence, safety and sanitisation of environments. For more information, visit host.fieramilano.it/en/
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THE HO.RE.CA INDUSTRY IS BACK AT HOST2021
A new experience-driven hospitality group has entered the market. Limestone Lab, a company with a vision of introducing new and innovative hospitality concepts to the UAE social and dining scene, is set to roll out a lineup of unique concepts between Q4 of 2021 and Q4 of 2023, with a disruptive approach to the traditional brick-and-mortar models. Founded by Dubai-based serial entrepreneurs, Hassan Ballout and Hani Doueik, the company wil bring forth their extensive hospitality expertise. Ballout, CEO of Limestone Lab, is known for his recent position as Chief Growth Officer for Seven Management, where he launched and managed Seven Sisters and Antika Bar in Dubai. In addition to this, he co-created and rolled out 12 virtual restaurant brands in Dubai, Abu Dhabi, Kuwait & Saudi Arabia, including Tawook Nation, Luca, Japang and Vigilante, to name a few. Hani Doueik will also serve as the Co-Founder and COO of Limestone Lab, adding his consulting experience alongside managing and founding F&B outlets in Lebanon.
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The content of this promotion campaign represents the views of the author only and is his/her sole responsibility. The European Commission and the European Research Executive Agency (REA) do not accept any responsibility for any use that may be made of the information it contains The European Union supports campaigns that promote high quality agricultural products.
DISCOVER THE LATEST MENU ADDITIONS AND LAUNCHES IN THE COUNTRY
TASCA BY JOSÉ AVILLEZ EMMY SQUARED The celebrated American restaurant known for its Detroit-style pizza and handcrafted sandwiches, will soon open its first international outpost at Yas Bay Waterfront. The licensed restaurant will be the first of its kind in the UAE, specializing in Detroit-style pizza, which boasts a square shape, crispy bottom, fluffy focaccia-like dough, caramelised cheesy “frico” crust and signature sauce stripes. In addition to this, diners can also enjoy handcrafted sandwiches served on a buttery pretzel bun, including the award-winning double-stacked grass-fed burger "Le Big Matt.”
Sunday to Thursday. AED135 per person. Contact +9714 777 2231.
SCALINI DUBAI
The end of summer will see the opening of a Cantonese concept featuring 14 private dining rooms with music bars, lounges, a ballroom and karaoke rooms. Look forward to contemporary classics such as Peking-Style roast duck, Cantonese barbecue goose, Charcoal grilled beef and plenty more, with beverages to accompany. The location’s décor boasts shades of blue, grey and gold, with an ambience for corporate events, celebratory banquets and delightful gastronomy.
Get a feel of summer by the Italian shore, with seasonal specials inspired by a small archipelago of islands on the Amalfi Coast. Curated by Chef Giuseppe Giampietro, the dishes showcase fresh seafood, ripe fruits and Mediterranean vegetables bursting with invigorating flavours. Served under the gorgeous lemon tree on the temperature-controlled terrace, the menu comprises fresh burrata served on a bed of pink paradise tomatoes, yellow and red cherry tomatoes, avocado, Taggiasca olives and a homemade pesto sauce, followed by Fritto misto (Fried breaded calamari, octopus, shrimp, zucchini chips served with tartar sauce alla paprika). The Tartare di tonno, diced bluefin tuna on a bed of chopped avocado with sea salt and lime zest, as well as oysters and Carpaccio di Gamberoni (Carpaccio of prawns and avocado) are designed to be shared. The Paccheri seafood special (Sautéed clams, mussels, calamari, and prawns in a light cherry tomato sauce topped with bottarga) make a spectacular main, but you can also opt for catch of the day with a choice of grilled, salt baked or Guazzetto, served with a rich tomato sauce. End your meal with an espresso and irresistible pistachio gelato, bomboloni, tiramisu or crème brulee.
Stay tuned via jiangnanspring.ae.
Contact +9714 349 0068.
JIANGNAN SPRING, DRAGON MART 2
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Portuguese flavours will liven up your next weekday dining experience, thanks to this three-course summer lunch menu. Whet your appetite with freshly baked bread and lupini bean hummus, followed by three small bites including tempura cod cake, wagyu or tuna tartare cone and tempura avocado. Mains feature piri piri chicken and Bacalhau à Gomes de Sá, and for desserts, traditional Pastel de nata with coffee ice cream or sorbet, for a cooling treat.
The Pro Chef Middle East / Edition 54
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various toppings. My favourite will have to be the very unique Black Angus beef with Spicy labneh flatbread.
Tell us about the dish.
ON MENUS ES CURRENTLY THE BEST DISH I – AS S ACROSS DUBA AT RESTAURANT LV S THEMSE ES CHOSEN BY CHEF
HEAD CHEF PETER OSTA
THE NAME
What is your favorite dish on the menu?
What makes it a standout dish? The flavours of this dish are incredible. The unique combination between the spicy labneh and the freshness of the greens and tomato definitely compliment the delicate flavours of the Black Angus beef.
Where do you source the ingredients from? We source all of our ingredients locally as we believe in supporting homegrown businesses here in the UAE. We're passionate at The Name about using locally-grown produce from farms in Al Ain and in Sharjah.
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At The Name, we have an extensive range of homemade dishes that cater to all tastebuds so it's difficult to pick just one. I suppose we would suggest the oven-baked flatbreads with
Our doughs are all fully vegan including the flatbreads which are flavourful and crusty. It is made of only water, flour, yeast, and just a pinch of sea salt. When the freshly baked bread comes out of the oven, we drizzle a balsamic vinaigrette over it for that added Mediterranean flavour. The fresh flatbread is then topped with succulent Black Angus beef perfectly surrounded with wild rocket, micro greens, cherry tomatoes, and a spicy labneh made tangy with spicy olive oil.
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HEAD CHEF RENE MANZANILLA
What makes it a standout dish?
What is your favourite dish on the menu?
The complex preparation of the dish itself makes it special. We require the perfect amount of burning a mix of vegetables and spices to turn it into ash. We then create the marinade and cure the salmon to enhance its juiciness. The procedure results in a combination of flavours and aromas that attract the senses of the guest and plays with their imagination. The dish gives a 'burnt' illusion, however, the charcoal mixture added to the salmon provides a burst of extraordinary flavours making this a key stand-out dish on our menu.
My favorite on the menu has to be the Salmon Loin. It's a very unique dish and one that definitely stands out.
Where do you source the ingredients from?
RUMBA CUBAN BAR & KITCHEN
Tell us about this dish. The Salmon Loin is based on a specific Mayan technique from Yucatan in the South of Mexico. The intricate process includes the usage of ashes from different vegetables, paired with spices to create the black matte marination that resembles a piece of charcoal instead of salmon. This method adds creativity to the dish and creates an unexpected surprise factor.
We take pride in sourcing fresh meat and fish locally and import authentic Latin American products required to create our dishes. For the Salmon Loin, we use a special spicy black paste from Yucatan called the “Recado Negro”. Our Sous Chef travelled to different countries across Asia regularly (pre-Covid) to explore new ingredients and flavours, and scout food trends that can be acquired to Rumba, to ensure we're catering to our guests' needs and staying on-trend.
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How did you get started in this industry? I first stepped into a professional kitchen at the tender age of 14 and I just knew this was my calling. I was a pot washer back then, but even so, I was already in my happy place! I knew that this was my natural habitat. Even today, I still get a sense of belonging in any kitchen. This goes without saying, that my passion for this industry runs through my veins. It is said that opportunities are lost in the blink of an eye but when opportunity and luck collide, that very moment makes us ready for the next level. It was a couple of weeks later that one of the chefs reported sick and there was an opening. I had then asked the chef at the time to allow me to cook something as a willingness to help. He taught me how to prepare and cook a simple yet inspiring dish- Zeppoline di Alghe. You should have seen the smile on my face!
Has your childhood influenced your cooking in any way?
FROM CASA DI NONNA TO DUBAI Executive Chef Luigi Vespero discusses his fondest memories, right from his grandmother’s home and first job in Italy, to working with Gordon Ramsay and the Galvin brothers
As with many Italian chefs, the food inspiration comes from “Di Casa” - home. In my particular case, it was my Nonna (grandmother), who produced the most delicious yet simple dishes. To this day, I still remember the taste, smells and textures, and always strive to recreate those in my household. The very first time I tried Spaghetti Alle Vongole, I immediately knew what would be my ultimate ‘last supper’ – the final dish I would choose to eat before I die. It must be made with the freshest ingredients – some ripe Italian tomatoes, freshly caught clams, homemade pasta. It makes my mouth water just thinking of it, Pasta La Vista!
Of all your career highlights to date, which one are you most proud of and why? I must say I have been fortunate enough to work with some of the most highly respected people in our industry. From the first day I stepped into Gordon Ramsay’s kitchen, my life changed forever and I was immediately catapulted into a different league. This helped me so much throughout my career and was certainly a key to opening many doors later on. It did in fact, land me the job with Chris and Jeff Galvin, two mentors who I now call friends. I learnt from them that nothing in life should ever be taken for granted. You have to work extremely hard to gain the success you dream of, but something to always bear in mind is that nothing is unachievable, you just need to go out there and grab it. Chris and Jeff also taught me a great deal about French cuisine, something that
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I completely fell in love with. They have a profound respect for the ingredients and the suppliers. This is another thing I learnt from them, the significance of establishing and maintaining strong working relationships with suppliers and those around you. At the end of the day, they account for a great deal of your overall success so working with them respectfully and ethically is incredibly important.
Where does your culinary inspiration stem from? My philosophy of food is very simple: let the ingredients be the star of the show. I am very much focused on the sensory elements of the dish, it must look right, and of course nowadays, there is such an importance on making food look Instagrammable. It also must smell and taste delicious. I also give particular attention to the acidity levels of a dish, which is very important especially when we think about what the consumer will pair with the dish, perhaps a glass of grape or another beverage, and how that impacts the overall sensations and taste. Food and drink must be well-balanced and complement each other, not fight or compete for the senses.
Describe some of the standout dishes on your restaurant’s menu and the inspiration behind it. My team and I are constantly looking at what the market can offer in terms of seasonality, quality, and of course, sustainability. The dining experience at Waldorf Astoria Dubai International Financial Centre offers three incredibly unique outlets. Our iconic destination lounge, Peacock Alley is beautifully elegant with art deco interior design elements and is the ideal spot for a freshly brewed coffee, delectable pastries as well as an indulgent afternoon tea. It is also located adjacent to our Cigar Lounge. The rooftop bar, St.Trop is the perfect spot for sundowner drinks and social bites. We serve a Mediterranean-infused menu with regional accents featuring dishes such as Dibba Bay oysters, and flame-grilled wagyu beef. Our signature award-winning restaurant, Bull & Bear offers imaginative cuisine with a global twist. Born in New York City as a steakhouse in the original Waldorf Astoria, we have maintained the grill element while adding a great mix of international cuisine inspired from East to West. Our prawn cocktail has become one of the must-try dishes, reinvented for a new millennium, while the Vegan Bowl is a zesty melange of
tofu, organic quinoa, chickpeas, avocado, pomegranate, buckwheat, carrots and kale, topped with a creamy sesame dressing and soy-cress garnish – this was a dish I wanted to include alongside the traditional prime cuts, the very popular signature dish Beef Rossini and seafood options to offer a delicious, healthy and vegan alternative to diners. The Big Apple dessert has also become a big hit, paying homage to the original Bull & Bear in Waldorf Astoria New York, with generous helpings of apple textures combined with a nutty sweet crumble.
GET TO KNOW THE CHEF A chef who inspires you the most and why? Alain Ducasse, he is simply a master in culinary art.
An Italian can never go about without utilising the freshest tomatoes, deliciously fragrant garlic, fresh basil and the very best extra virgin olive oil.
Favourite culinary destination: I’ve never been, but I would love to discover South America, a highly diverse area of land whose nations have varying cuisines. I wish to explore and get inspired by its food culture that holds its beauty from the ethnic fusion of South America.
How do you seek to minimize waste and ensure sustainability throughout the restaurant?
Go-to dish when cooking for your family: Lasagna - always a winner!
Are there any ingredients you’re particularly enjoying working with?
By reducing large buffet set ups in favour of individual portions while still displaying a lovely spread. Our chefs are also educated on the importance of minimizing food wastage, and effectively managing portion control.
What do you believe diners are seeking in the current environment? Following the current trends, something that has caught my attention again and again is the concept of whole plant-based foods. I enjoy following other chefs, both in the
Middle East and internationally, to see the creations they come up with for vegan menus as diners are seeking and adopting healthier, conscious eating habits. At Bull and Bear, the Vegan Bowl is a prime example which I believe will continue to be an important trend throughout the years to come as the consumer becomes more socially and sustainably responsible.
TH E C HEF
A DAY IN THE LIFE OF…
Chef Alessandro Miceli – Executive Chef, Bella Restaurant and Lounge and Partner at Gr8 Hospitality
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9am –
Regardless of whether it’s been a busy night, the night before, my eyes open at 9am. I spend time on my phone, which I refers to as “my monster”. It is now that I check the reports from the previous day and review emails and messages across all my social media platforms. I like to post on social media, at least one connected to Bella and one to the other projects in the pipeline.
9.30am –
I message “Buon Giorno” to my family and partners on WhatsApp to let everyone I am awake and ready for the day. This is a very important part of my day. With so many groups on WhatsApp (32 groups for family members, 27 groups for business partners, 24 groups from Bella Restaurant and Lounge and well as 35 other groups related to businesses), it is critical that I stay on top of all the messages as not only do I use this as my main method of communication, but I interact with many of our guests via WhatsApp, as many guests like to book for Bella directly with me.
10am – Having showered and reset
my mindset for the day, I get into my car and head to my weekly board meeting at the Gr8 Hospitality offices. The weekly meeting is with all the business partners to discuss each new project. We currently have a new beach club project at the W Dubai - The Palm in the pipeline for October, as well as another restaurant and lounge project scheduled to open at the Opus Building in November, so it’s all systems go.
11am –
I prep the team to be ready for the game (operation). Generating positive energy is very important to me as well as nurturing talent in the team. Before service begins, I also like to talk to my team to discuss any issues raised in the report from the previous day.
11.45am – Before we begin the
lunch service, I have my first team briefing of the day. Service is at the heart of operations at Bella so I always instruct my team to focus.
12pm – I use the lunch service to
experiment with products and menus. Every fortnight, we change the lunch menu at Bella. We want our guests to feel like they are taking a trip to Tuscany or Milan. Absorbing the feedback from the dishes at lunch is very important, so that certain dishes from the lunch menu get absorbed and added to our a la carte menu.
1pm – I like to dedicate time to each
of my kitchen employees for training. I believe that spending 10 mins every day to training each employee in a new skill is very important, for the team to grow.
3pm –
Meelz Meeting. Meelz is the first marketplace in the world that connects chefs directly to customers. I am working with Meelz on not only a delivery menu and recipe boxes, but masterclasses, special Chef’s Table experiences to come into Bella’s Private Dining room and selected products for the e-store. I have pasta that I have created in my own shape that will be sold exclusively online, as well as two brands of coffee that I have developed. I have also hand-selected seafood products, conserves that keep 100% of their vitamins and nutrients, honey, gluten-free products, nectar, water, flour, chocolate and nuts.
4pm –
After checking my task list for the day, it’s meeting time at Bella with either the front of house management team or the kitchen management. For the kitchen management meeting, I like to block out two hours every Wednesday afternoon where we
don’t look at our phones and can focus on the task at hand.
6pm –
I meditate and reset every day, ahead of the evening service. I either walk or do a sport to clear my head so I can be “fresh” for the busy service ahead.
7pm –
I like to refer to evening service as “kickoff” or “starting the match.” The chefs are not stopped at the pass. I want our guests to be able to put a face behind the dish. As Chef Alessandro Miceli, I know that I am representing the face of the restaurant. One of the USPs at Bella is that we serve dishes in front of the guests. That means many of our dishes are finished at the table.
12am –
I makes sure to oversee the last order/dish to leave the kitchen. Before each member of the kitchen team leaves, I say goodbye personally, and then head out - I am one of the last people to leave the venue.
1.30am – My day is not yet over. I
use the time on the drive home to send voice messages which include recommendations based on the days meetings and service and send reports to staff based on the feedback from the service.
2am –
I get home but before bed, I work on my agenda ahead of the next day. No two days are ever the same, but I love every part of it.
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TH E C HEF
Renowned Chef Dario Cecchini discusses the launch of Carna Dubai and why this region was his next big step
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The Pro Chef Middle East / Edition 54
Why was Dubai your next big move? I come from a small village in Tuscany, in the heart of the Chianti region, called Panzano. I’m from a family that for 250 years, eight generations, has passed on the art of butchery from father to son. Carna, for me, is a wonderful opportunity to carry forth a message, that it is not just a restaurant, but it's an experience. It’s an opportunity to eat meats of the highest
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THE LEGENDARY BUTCHER
Y
ou will most likely recognise the butcher-cum-chef Dario Cecchini from Netflix’s popular series Chef ’s Table. The spirited chef - who had ambitions of becoming a veterinarian instead of a butcher - had to take over the family-owned business, which is why Cecchini has much respect for produce and uses the entirety of the animal in his dishes. Here we find out about his first international outpost at SLS Dubai.
quality in an ambience that is not only comfortable, but the entire menu and philosophy of the restaurant is based on respect for the animal. There are not only wonderful steaks on the menu but also skewers of beef heart, there's a wonderful Bollito Misto including tongue and other delicious parts of the animal. It's my way of showing people how it can be wonderfully delicious to use all parts of the animal, from nose to tail.
Describe Carna. Here, diners will enjoy the comfortable atmosphere. They'll find a service that is influenced by great professionality, wonderful food and a team that I feel represents me to a T, and that I adore. Diners will find a great experience of conviviality and wonderful cuisine at Carna.
How would you describe your cooking style? It's the cuisine of a butcher. Therefore, I look for the simplest, best recipe for every cut of beef.
Name some of the standout dishes on the menu. The Bistecca alla Fiorentina (a traditional Tuscan cut) and the beef heart skewers, which allow you to enjoy a cut that is not often used these days. The Bollito Misto is another great one, and in general, these are three dishes that represent a butcher's way of cooking. I grew up eating a wonderful Bollito Misto, which is a dish that my grandmother made for me. And I think, in particular, the cuisine that a butcher enjoys at home absolutely is the cuisine that includes the lesser-known cuts of the animal, hence the beef heart skewers.
Any special plans in place for the near future? Carna in Dubai has been a great honour to inaugurate and to build for the future with sbe and Accor. We will soon be opening Bottega de Carna in Detroit, and have plenty of other plans that we are working on and looking forward to creating together, where we will always keep in mind using every part of the animal well out of respect.
GET TO KNOW THE CHEF Favourite kitchen appliance A good knife! A chef you admire the most I truly, deeply admire Chef Jamie and Chef Philippe at Carna, SLS Dubai. They are professional, always prepared, and a dream to work with. Your go-to meal I love to prepare for myself and my family, my beef tartare. I always serve it with a glass of classic red grape from the Chianti region. Favourite restaurant in Dubai and why? As far as my favourite restaurant in Dubai, I have to say, I'm not lucky enough to have a great experience dining out as yet. This is one of my very first trips to Dubai, and for now, my favourite restaurant here is Carna. It is truly where I feel at home. Carna is a casa, which in Italian means home!
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WOMEN IN THE CULINARY WORLD Despite there being multiple Michelin starred and top Executive female Chefs across the globe, women are often underrepresented in this space. Here, Anne Laure Morisset Dutel, Executive Chef at La Serre Bistro & Boulangerie, and Chef, Food Writer, Restaurateur and Television Personality Silvena Rowe, who helms Nassau, Jumeirah Golf Estates (JGE), weigh in on the challenges and rewards of being a woman in a male-dominated field
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“Even today, when a deal is on the table for restaurant development, a male chef will often get better financially rewarded” - Chef Silvena Rowe
have at least 30 per cent female chefs; and at one point, her whole pastry kitchen was made up entirely of women. “Professional chefs’ lives are tough, with long hours, mentally and physically exhausting, which is not the right choice for most women,” says Chef Silvena. When asked about the disparity in numbers between female and male chefs, Chef Anne Laure replies, “it is a social issue and not just consigned to kitchens. The same thing happens in boardrooms and in
Serena Botelho e Warren
“I got into this field because I was always at my happiest when I was with my family, cooking in the kitchen - there is no feeling like it in the world,” says Chef Anne Laure, whose current role includes the development of menus and kitchens across the Lincoln Hospitality group in Dubai, while also taking the lead on the international expansion of their franchises. “Pure greed for food,” says Chef Silvena, “As a little girl, I would constantly think about food, its various colours and textures. All my holiday postcards were solely about the food eaten while holidaying and it was very early on that I understood the power of food.” Chef Silvena Rowe has been in the F&B industry for over 33 years, donning multiple hats. She is known to be one of the few female global MasterChef judges, has authored eight cookbooks, conceptualised Omnia Gourmet, Al Botanica and Nassau at JGE, and has recently partnered with Spinneys Middle East to create a range of healthy savoury and sweet food products. Chef Silvena has always prioritised women in the industry, ensuring her kitchens
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every company across the globe, not just in the hospitality industry.” What is the reality of being a female chef in a male-dominated industry? “To be honest, a lot has been made of the male-dominated industry that we as female chefs work in,” says Chef Anne Laure, who previously worked at Michelin star restaurants in the South of France. “I strongly believe that talent, not gender, will always shine through. I’m not saying it’s easy, however it drove me to work hard and to be the best at everything I do - from when I started as a trainee to my current role, it drives me every day to excel.” Chef Silvena declares “It is hard! There is still inequality.” That said, she agrees that the rewards of making it big in the male-dominated environment are great and she urges more women to join this field. When questioned about their first experience in the kitchen, Chef Anne Laure states her experience as a trainee was like being in the army. “You follow orders and do what needs
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“A lot has been made of the male-dominated industry that we as female chefs work in” - Chef Anne Laure to be done.” She also wasn’t treated any differently from her male counterparts. “Michelin star kitchens don’t see anything but the end product, which is the dish plated perfectly no matter what you have to do to get there.” Chef Silvena’s experience was rather different. “Even today, when a deal is on the table for restaurant development, a male chef will often get better financially rewarded.” The chef admits she has had some incredible experiences too. “I personally have been very fortunate. Working with local Emiratis has been the best experience, with total respect and acknowledgement of my talent and experience. It is the Western colleagues who have to start treating female chefs on equal footing,” she says. So what is life in the kitchen like? “Everyone has this picture of chefs screaming on ‘the pass’. It’s not always like that, in fact it’s rarely like that,” says Chef Anne Laure, who discloses she used every challenge to learn and improve herself. Both chefs also had words of wisdom for up-and-coming female chefs. “The kitchen is a hard environment but at the same time, the most creative place. A woman thrives in a kitchen, naturally! Women are full of warmth, affection and passion, as life-givers! Enjoy and thrive,” says Chef Silvena. Chef Anna Laure adds, “it won’t be easy. Trust your knowledge, learn and develop, and push yourself every day. I would say that any young chef out there should not take anything personally and should soak up as much information through experience as possible.”
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CLAIRE’S f lair French award-winning pastry chef Claire Heitzler is known for her subtle yet sophisticated desserts that draw inspiration from the past but fit perfectly into the present. She tells us more about her background and of course, French ingredients and her coveted creations.
When did you first fall in love with French pastry? Ever since I was a young child. I come from a very small village in Alsace, France and right in front of our family home is La Maison Ferber, run by a famous pastry chef and chocolatier, Christine Ferber. I grew up eating her pastries (the vanilla eclairs were my favourite, and still are – I love them) and I was fortunate to watch how everything was made by hand. I had a lot of admiration for her and always found the process interesting. Also, her pastries set the standard for me – they became my reference for good quality pastry, which meant I’ve had high expectations ever since I was young. Did you go straight into studying French pastry after school? No, I actually started culinary school when I was 16 years old. And after three years of focusing on general cuisine, I specialised in pastry for another two years. You’ve worked with worldrenowned chefs at famous restaurants during the tenure of your career – take us on a brief journey of what you’ve accomplished… I began at Troisgros in Roanne and following this I worked with Georges Blanc in Vonnas and Jean-Paul Abadie in Lorient before moving to London where I worked as the pastry chef at L’Oranger Restaurant. A year later, Alain Ducasse offered me the opportunity to become the pastry chef at his new restaurant Beige Alain Ducasse
in Tokyo. I stayed in Japan for three years, then moved to Dubai to be the executive pastry chef at the Park Hyatt hotel. After this, I went back to Paris to join the Ritz and in 2010 I joined Lasserre Restaurant. I became the creative director at Ladurée in 2016 and then left to open up my own consultancy two years ago. You’ve really travelled around! Did you enjoy living in so many different countries? Absolutely, I love to travel, meet new people and discover new cultures – it opens my mind and inspires me. Is there one country which has had the biggest impact on you as a chef? It would have to be Japan. I love the country’s food and culture; everything is beautiful – actually so much deeper than beautiful. Everything makes sense in the way it is done and there is always a story behind it. And these stories always draw inspiration from nature and the seasons. I love nature and I respect seasonality in my work. I simply cannot use fruits and
The content of this media represents the author’s point of view only and is the sole responsibility of the author. The European Commission is not responsible for any use that may be made from the information contained herein.
vegetables that are not in season. The Japanese tend to limit the amount of sugar, salt and fat in their food – this has also influenced my approach. As a highly acclaimed chef you must have many highlights from your career – but are there one or two of which you are immensely proud? I’d say working for Alain Ducasse is definitely a highlight. He is demanding, but that makes one grow, quickly. I learnt a lot from him and liked him very much. We had a great relationship. The five years that I spent at Lasserre was also a good experience. I was completely free to make any dessert I wanted to. I created a special
menu – the “Séquence Sucrée” – where everything was sweet, from the appetizers right through to the petits fours. It was amazing. We made things like a buckwheat brioche instead of regular bread and our butter was made from hazelnut and chocolate. We also used a lot of fruits and vegetables such as carrots, artichokes, tomatoes and peas for their natural sugars. Our challenge was to keep things light – it’s the only way if one is going to eat a series of plated desserts. As a French Pastry chef, you obviously use ingredients like butter and cream in your creations – how do you keep these light? It all comes down to finding a good balance between your ingredients. I also like to play with salt and citrus – with just a dash of lime juice for example, you can instantly cut through the richness of a creamy dessert. Why are French dairy products such key ingredients in the pastry industry and what makes them special? French cream, butter and milk are the base of everything we do. And in France, we are very fortunate to have excellent quality dairy products because of our unique terroir and farming methods.
Photographs SUPPLIED
TH E BR AN D
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CEO TALK
Walid Hajj, Co-Founder and CEO of Kitch, takes us through Cloud Kitchens, industry disruption and what’s in store for the future
C
o-founded by Walid Hajj and Saudi entrepreneur Fahad Alhokair in 2020, Kitch is a privately owned, hybrid, deliveryfocused cloud kitchen and premium store-front operator in Saudi Arabia and the UAE. Walid Hajj has over two decades of hands-on expertise in food services and related businesses, with the founding of Cravia, one of the region’s leading food and hospitality groups that brought world-class franchises to the Middle East, including Zaatar W Zeit, Five Guys, Cinnabon and Seattle's Best Coffee. Prior to establishing Cravia, Walid was a Brand Manager at Procter & Gamble for two years and Vice President of Operations for his family business, United Group, in Saudi Arabia.
How has Kitch disrupted the cloud kitchen concept? Capitalising on huge advancement of technology application in the industry and more importantly the sharp rise in delivery aggregators and the convenience they offer end consumers, Cloud Kitchens are perfectly fit to be an integral part of the fabric of the F&B space. At Kitch, however, we also believe that the brick & mortar part of the business will not die. Guests will still want to go out and enjoy the overall experience, and some brands will require the “flagship” presence. As a result, we are operating on a hybrid approach covering both parallels of the industry.
How are cloud kitchens shaping the future of restaurant franchising?
Cloud Kitchens are the new agent of growth for restaurants in general. With the recent disruption in the industry, Cloud Kitchens allow restaurants to grow quicker, cheaper and build their brands in record times, which was unheard of before. Just compare the three to five months it used to take to build a store previously, to the two weeks it takes for a brand to be on-boarded in a cloud kitchen. Compare also the cost involved in both. With delivery taking over the majority of business, you can be up and running in no time, and still achieve huge top line results. This is the opportunity for everyone involved in this value chain and Kitch intends to be a key player in it.
What’s in store for the future? Frankly, no one knows. I lived through 20 years of the restaurant industry being stagnant, and with little change, just to see massive disruption that shook everyone involved. What I can tell you is technology is here to stay and the changes are permanent. I am a big believer, however, that we will never live in a fully virtual world. We will still want to go out and eat and have the full experience.
What does work–life balance look like? To me, balance is not about dedicating certain hours a day for work, family and yourself, because work, especially when you start a business, takes over everything - when you are home, with your kids and even when you are sleeping. Balance to me is to ensure that whatever you are doing, is keeping you happy and sane. The excitement behind starting a new business, and the beautiful chaos of a start-up keeps me very fulfilled and content. When I feel that, I know I am able to give my family what they deserve in terms of quality time and attention, and to also ensure that I try to look after myself whether it is through sports or selfdevelopment.
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TH E DISTR IBUT OR
MEET THE
DISTRIBUTOR Joanie Dall’anese, Head of Marketing at Chef Middle East (UAE, Qatar and Oman) introduces us to one of the region’s leading distributors of food and beverage products
D
escribe the concept.
With over 25 years in the business, we are the leading distributor of speciality food and beverage products, serving chefs and culinary professionals in the Middle East with unparalleled quality ingredients and cutting-edge foodservice kitchen solutions from leading brands around the world. Our company services more than 3,000 customers from 5-star hotels and international chains to world-class dining and concept restaurants in the UAE, Qatar, and Oman. We also provide the same exceptional quality of service and products to customers in locations such as the Indian Ocean, Africa and CIS.
How does your company stand out from the rest? Over the years, Chef Middle East (CME) has shaped itself as a prominent speciality broadliner and a highly regarded player in the GCC foodservice sector. That is mostly because CME has managed to consistently adapt to the ever-changing market conditions and customers’ needs while building trust and credibility with customers and suppliers alike through reliability and the highest quality of service. Paired with best in class import practices and the availability of an exceptional range of ingredients from all over the globe, it is the investment in the people and infrastructure that supports the business, which has enabled driving focus and service excellence for their customers.
How does the company support the local community? In January 2021, CME unveiled its
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exclusive partnership with ‘The Best of Dubai’, an initiative pioneered by award-winning author Flavel Monteiro, aiming at raising the culinary bar in a quest to highlight Dubai as one of the best culinary destinations in the world. It also helps creating a community that brings together some of the most talented chefs in Dubai while providing a platform that features them and the emirate as a culinary hub beyond the region’s borders. In other markets such as Qatar, CME is an active member of the Qatar Culinary Professionals (QCP) and always works in close collaboration with its steering committee to keep the network alive and provide educational content to their chefs and F&B members. Additionally, CME takes pride in regularly participating in corporate social responsibility initiatives, may it be on its own or through some of its brands. Most recently, CME provided ingredients to help raise awareness around food waste in the industry and to give back to those in need through a campaign led by the UAE Food Bank, in association with Sofitel Dubai The Obelisk.
Any new launches or brands that chefs and restaurateurs can look forward to? CME has recently launched a new health segment to cater to this vertical of new, more health-conscious diners through onboarding different brands such as Violife, with an entire range of Vegan cheese; Rude Health, with a special selection of organic alternatives to milk; and Wheyhey - sugar-free ice cream loaded with proteins, ideal for guilt-free snack or dessert. The distributor is also
expanding and sharpening its beverage solution with a new coffee brand from Italy, MIKAH Coffee, as well as teas from Vertea and The Leaf brands, and a full range of sugar free fruit juices from Juicy brand, launching an exclusive and iconic cranberry juice with no added sugar in the region. CME is currently working on a new project within its Meat & Poultry category, which will come as a real game changer for operators in regional markets, with the launch of US based brand, Stockman’s Finest Meats. An entire selection of the highest quality deli meats will be available regionally at the outset of Q4, definitely something to look forward to and be very excited about!
T HE SEASON
FUSION FLAIR The newly opened Dialogue, sited at Majestic Hotel in Bur Dubai, serves modern Indian cuisine and exotic concoctions, bringing to the city a thrilling nightlife experience coupled with good vibes. At the helm of the kitchen is Head Chef Avneesh Gautama, who graduated from Le Cordon Bleu in London with a French cuisine qualification. Together with his in-depth understanding of South Asian flavours through culinary experience across Mumbai’s hospitality sector, Chef Avneesh has curated a special menu with each course showcasing the perfect fusion of his delicate French cookery skills and bold, exciting Asian flavours
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TH E SEASON
Chilli Idli, Coconut Snow 500g Byadgi chilli (whole) 200g garlic (peeled) 20g curry leaves 20g mustard seeds 20g black pepper, crushed 20g Deggi mirch powder 50ml oil 2 cups water, to soak chillies 30g salt 10gm urad dal (whole) 200g instant/readymade idli batter To plate 30g coconut, grated 10g curry leaves, fried 15g fresh coriander, chopped Few wedges of lemon
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Method 1 Soak the Byadgi chillies in hot water to soften them. Once soft, blend the chillies in a mixer using the soaking liquid, until it forms a smooth paste. You can deseed the chillies if you prefer a milder spice level. 2 In a deep pan, add oil, mustard seeds, dal and curry leaves. Allow them to crackle. Add the chopped garlic and cook until soft, and there is no pungent smell. Add a tablespoon or so of water to deglaze the pan, to avoid the garlic from sticking to the base. Add the chilly paste to the mix and cook. Once cooked, set aside and use as required. 3 Take the readymade batter in a bowl and add water to adjust consistency. The idli batter can be put into moulds of desired size. Steam. 4 In a sauté pan, add 4 tbsp of the chilli paste. Add the idlis and give it a good toss. Add lemon juice and salt, and finish with chopped coriander. Place it in the serving plate/bowl. Sprinkle grated coconut on top and curry leaves and serve hot with coconut chutney.
Grilled Chilli Chicken 180g chicken supreme/fillet 40g ginger garlic paste 15g red chilli powder 5g salt 15ml oil For the sauce 80g onions, diced 150g mixed bell peppers, diced 10g green chillies, sliced 15g ginger, finely chopped 20g garlic, finely chopped
50ml sriracha sauce 20ml dark soy sauce 10g cornflour, make a slurry with 1 tbsp of water 25g spring onions, chopped (set aside 10g for plating) 10g fresh coriander, chopped 20ml oil 15g dried red chilli 6g sugar
Method 1 Mix together the ginger garlic paste, red chilli powder, salt and oil, with the chicken, and marinate for half an hour. Grill it on a hot plate till chicken is cooked. 2 In a pan, add oil and allow it to smoke. Add dried red chilli, onion and bell peppers. Fry on high heat for a minute. Add sugar and cook until slightly caramelized. 3 Add ginger, green chillies and garlic and sauté for a minute. Add all the sauce mixtures and combine. When it comes to a slight simmer, add the cornflour slurry. Add spring onions and coriander. 4 Toss the grilled chicken with the freshly prepared sauce and give it a good toss on a medium to high flame. 5 Serve hot on a plate and garnish with spring onions.
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Chef Norbert Niederkofler is best known for his culinary philosophy ‘Cook the Mountain’ - which sees him cooking solely with locally grown produce, drawing inspiration from his mountain surroundings in Italy, while giving value to the ingredients. Here, the Consultant Chef at Aman Venice, Executive Chef of St. Hubertus at Rosa Alpina Hotel and Spa, and winner of the Green Star 2020 (the latest accolade by the Michelin Guide) shares a recipe from the ‘Cook the Mountain’ menu, which quickly gained notoriety and led him and St. Hubertus, Rosa Alpina Hotel and Spa, to win their third Michelin star in 2017
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Spaghettoni, Cornel Cherry and Lake Sardines SERVES 4 1,200g cornel cherry berries Spaghettoni 250g spaghettoni 10g butter 2 sage leaves 15g Formai de Mut (mountain cheese)
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100 ml cornel cherry juice Other ingredients 30g dried lake sardines Spruce bark
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Method 1 Remove the seeds of the cornel cherries. Place the cherries in a stand mixer with the paddle attachment set at the lowest speed and break them down. Once the cornel cherries have yielded all their juice, pass through a fine sieve to remove the residue of the berry skin and pulp. 2 Grill the dried lake sardines over a charcoal grill and smoke them lightly with some spruce bark pieces. Let them cool down and shave into the fines flakes using a mandolin. 3 Cook the spaghettoni in lightly salted boiling water. 4 Melt the butter in a pan and add the sage leaves. 5 Mix the spaghettoni and cream together with the sage, butter and the Formai de Mut cheese. Finally, add the fresh cornel cherry juice. 6 Plate up a nest of spaghettoni in a deep plate, finishing with the dried lake sardine flakes.
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O N THE PASS / S W EET EN D I N G
AROUND THE WORLD
Here’s what celebrity chefs and restaurateurs are up to
SPAIN BOTÀNIC unveils an upscale plantforward dining experience. Nestled in Palma de Mallorca, the vibrant and bold restaurant offers a sophisticated twist to green cuisine. The menu features lettuce vegetable tacos; locally sourced chicken, fish, and vegetables. Menu highlights include Carrot in orange-based ceviche, lobster, celery, coriander and chillies; Pumpkin stuffed with red prawns, Thai bouillabaisse and saffron crust; and Pineapple carpaccio, slush rice with coconut and green curry ice cream, amongst other dishes.
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GREECE Ultimate Collection announced the launch of its organic farmto-table experience at Ultima Corfu. Perched over the Ionian Sea with views of the Greek and Albanian coasts, guests of the villa can head to the Bioporos Organic Farm, on the south of the island, for a day of discovery. Stretching across a 70-acre olive grove, the organic farm offers seminars about sustainable living and more. Diners can then head to Corfu’s only organicexclusive restaurant where chefs use fresh, organic local produce and animal products made from organically grown free-range animals, to prepare age-old Corfiot and Greek dishes.
AUSTRALIA Heston Blumenthal recently released a plant-based burger range for the Australian burger chain, Grill’d. The burger comprises a mushroom-based patty made by alt-meat brand Fable Food and is a limited-edition item with just 4,000 burgers available. Diners can try the Fable Spicy Cheeseburger by Heston Blumenthal, Fable Truffle and Fable Southern BBQ.
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