The Trail to McKenzie’s Farm

By Pamela Hance

First-time visitors to McKenzie’s Farm in Milton, New Hampshire may sense and then wonder at the sprightly breeze or light-footed blur that rushes almost imperceptibly past them as they explore the farm. The magician’s phrase, “Now you see ‘em, now you don’t”, may even come to mind. The regulars will recognize this breeze, this blur, this abracadabra. The familiar but fleeting apparition is not a magic trick; it is mercurial and hardworking Annie, seemingly in many places at once. One moment hovering over the perennials, then whisking past the wide doors of the country store, then planting marigolds in the dark soil beside one of her many young employees. Suddenly, she disappears between the greenhouse and the apple orchard. No doubt about it, Annie has what it takes to be a major force behind the success of the eighty-plus acres that comprise this highly productive enterprise begun over 30 years ago. Initially, Annie and Jock purchased 5 acres and offered pick-your-own strawberries to the public, but an attack of “evil weevils”, as the McKenzies call them, wiped out their crop and the burgeoning growers replaced the strawberries with raspberries and apples. Eventually, the strawberries returned. The greenhouse came later, where lush plants heavy with tomatoes, peppers and cucumbers are produced for a wider market and transported to stores in Maine and Massachusetts six days a week.

The McKenzie home was built in the pre-weevil days. Implementing a passive system, the house is situated to “collect and transport energy by non-mechanical, natural means”. Strategic orientation and building materials are utilized to optimally receive the warmth and light of the sun. Here, Annie and Jock raised their daughter, Kyle, and son Brett who now contributes his youth and vigor to his parents’ endeavors, as well as his degree in business from the University of Tampa. Fundamental to the farm’s continuing growth and success, Brett manages the far-reaching wholesale distribution. He keeps up with the latest technology and has given a 21st-century boost to the farm’s productivity through social media, as well as inventory and payment system.

Even an energizer bunny hasn’t the force to handle the many aspects of this agricultural operation. In fact, Jock held down the fort while Annie was still teaching 4th and 5th grades in Wakefield. It may seem ironic that a veteran of the United States Navy was destined to carve a farm out of the rocky but fertile New Hampshire soil. From 1966 until 1978, Jock followed in the footsteps of previous family members who also served the country on ships at sea. In the years following the Gulf of Tonkin incident, he sailed aboard the USS America on the South China Sea as the Vietnam War escalated in the mid-60s. But the lives of Annie, originally from Wisconsin, and Jock, from Maine, were to take a turn when they serendipitously met on the Appalachian Trail at Sunfish Pond, New Jersey. First, they were drawn together by a love of hiking, then they shared the rest of the trail together, all the way to Maine, and at last, to Milton. Eventually, they both earned horticultural degrees at the University of New Hampshire. Looking back on that first encounter, it is not surprising that they planted their feet on a path of country living and have gone quite a distance.

Their hiking continues. They’ve followed the main ridge of the Green Mountains on Vermont’s Long Trail, the challenging Northville Lake Placid Trail in the Adirondacks, as well as New Hampshire’s well-known mountain trails. Winter is no deterrent to their love of outdoor exertion. When the snow falls, they strap on their skis and head for the steep slopes, near and far, from Colorado to Italy, from Germany to New Zealand. No one can say that the McKenzie’s have not covered a lot of ground.

Those that benefit from the hard work at the McKenzie’s are pleased to know that the long and distant roads traversed by this pair will lead them back to Milton in preparation for the return of the summer season. From May until November 22nd, the farm is abundant with plants, fruits, vegetables and fun. A great variety of lush and vibrant flats of flowers, herbs and vegetables are sold to those who tend their own gardens. In due season, the whole family can enjoy gathering baskets of strawberries, raspberries, blueberries, peaches and apples, or selecting the perfect pumpkin amidst the acres of beds and orchards. No doubt, the exertion of harvesting, as well as the heady aroma from the nearby bakery ovens will evoke a hearty appetite. Wise visitors will bring their lunch, claim a nearby picnic table and compliment their repast with the freshly made apple cider donuts, named the Number 2 cider donut in the state by WMUR channel 9. A variety of pies and an assortment of breads are also available in the substantial but homey Country Store which also carries a range of locally sourced products, including meat, dairy, syrup, honey, wine, candles and soap. The fruits of Annie and Jock’s efforts can be enjoyed beyond Milton. Regular travelers heading toward Ossipee on Route 16 eagerly anticipate arriving at the familiar stand at the intersection of Route 109 in Wakefield where they can buy seasonal fruits and vegetables, especially the sweet, signature New Hampshire corn of summer.

The McKenzies work with Community Supported Agriculture (CSA), which has become a popular way for consumers to buy local, seasonal food directly from a farmer. The hi-tech process makes it simple to maintain and save on any purchases, whether produce or products, by establishing a ‘house account’, good for a year, where basic information is stored. Shareholders reap a gift of 10% off on whatever they buy at the farm in Milton or the farmstand in Wakefield. Meanwhile, this is a boon for local growers and a way to avoid costly bank loans, as well. Other advantages for the local community are the job opportunities for prospective employees, ages 16 and up. Working at the farm is an education, as training is provided for all jobs, which • Farm continued on page 22 may include work in the greenhouse, store or field.

The most recent venture, a wedding venue set in a spacious barn-like building with a 225-person capacity, was opened in 2022, an inauspicious time considering the impact of Covid. It is thriving, nonetheless. Large windows offer a generous view of the trees that surround the building. Renters of the space provide the decorations and caterers to suit their own tastes and budget.

As the busy summer season wanes, McKenzie’s Farm presents a grand autumn event, the McKtoberfest. A craving for a seasonal swig of fresh apple cider can be satisfied with a beverage made on the spot, using an old-fashioned press and fruit you’ve picked yourself. Caramel apples will fill the bill for anyone who fancies a more substantial treat of crunch and gooi- ness. A variety of foods are also available, as well as refreshing lemonade to wash down the delicious indulgences. Kids or children-at-heart can have their faces painted or make friends with the animals, including alpacas. Or one can hop atop a tractor-pulled trailer and take a ride around the farm, perhaps getting a glimpse of the perfect pumpkin. Once it’s discovered, the owner can paint it fresh from the field and take it home for display on Halloween night. The brave and the curious can defy the convolutions of the 2-acre corn maze. In between cider pressing, animal petting, apple picking, pumpkin painting and corn “mazing”, celebrants may take to their feet and dance to the live music that fills the air.

The residents of New Hampshire, Maine, Massachusetts and beyond are fortunate that the Appalachian Trail led the McKenzies to Milton and to the creation of a resource for farmers, shoppers and lovers of healthy locally grown food, fresh air, and fun.

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