The Cultured Traveller, June-August 2022 Issue 38

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JUNE – AUGUST 2022 UK £10

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GREECE’S YOUTHFUL & ENERGETIC SECOND CITY

R O T T E R DA M ➤ L A NGK AW I ➤ WA R S AW ’ S F O OD S C E N E MELBOURNE ➤ THE LALEE ➤ LA SAMARITAINE FA I R MON T Q UA SA R ISTA N BU L ➤ M I L LO

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highlights

46 GREECE’S YOUTHFUL SECOND CITY Often dwarfed by the nation’s historic capital, Greece’s second city is diverse, young-hearted, energetic and welcoming. Brimming with creative young people who know how to enjoy life, Nicholas Chrisostomou explores the vibrant port city of THESSALONIKI.

6 4 T H E D A V I N C I O F I TA LY ’ S ST R E E T S Well known in his homeland, the work of Francesco Camillo Giorgino, also known as MILLO, can be seen in Paris, London, Rome and Rio. As his popularity grows with every mural he paints, The Cultured Traveller chats to the much-loved Italian street artist.

116 D I N I N G W I T H L I L L I E L A N GT R Y Inspired by the Victorian doyenne of London society who used her charms to beguile the Prince of Wales, Nicholas Chrisostomou visits Lillie Langtry’s new namesake eatery in the heart of London’s Chelsea, housed within the very building where she lived.

12 8 T H E R E B I R T H O F A PA R I S I A N R E TA I L I C O N Founded in 1869 by a street hawker, LA SAMARITAINE started life in a small café close to the Pont Neuf in Paris. Following a massive investment by LVMH, The Cultured Traveller visits the reborn shopping legend, which today magnificently marries the old and new in dazzling retail opulence.

4 4 W I N A F O U R - N I G H T L U X U R Y M A U R I T I A N STAY Soak in the tropical vibes of magical Mauritius in an Indian Ocean-view room at THE RESIDENCE MAURITIUS, including daily breakfasts, one dinner for two and local airport transfers.

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Freedom by Millo, Vilnius, Lithuania, 2015

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8 CONTRIBUTORS 1 0 E D I T O R’ S L E T T E R 12 NEWSFLASH Virtually every day, a fascinating festival, cultural event, musical gathering or colourful fiesta is happening somewhere around the world. In NewsFlash, browse The Cultured Traveller, pick of global experiences occurring in the coming months, including the standout classical music FESTIVAL OF SAINT-DENIS held in a delightful Parisian suburb; the grandfather of modern-day music festivals GLASTONBURY, which returns after a three-year hiatus headlined by legendary Beatle Paul McCartney; BATALLA DEL VINO, held in the capital of northern Spain’s Rioja-producing region; the unique no-holds-barred RED BULL SOAPBOX RACE spectacle; the ultimate electronic dance music festival, Tomorrowland, in Belgium, and one of the most iconic festivals on the planet, BURNING MAN.

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2 6 R E S T YO U R H E A D In issue 38 of The Cultured Traveller, the team checks-out a dozen new hospitality offerings around the world, including RAFFLES THE PALM DUBAI, nestled between the turquoise waters of the Arabian Gulf and Dubai’s skyscraperfilled skyline; COMO’s newest resort, set in unspoiled wilderness bordered by dreamy white sand beaches on LAUCALA ISLAND in Fiji; chic new boutique hotel XENODOCHEIO MILOS located in the bustling heart of downtown Athens; intimate new eco-retreat, Six Senses Botanique, located at the forested confluence of three river valleys in the heart of the Mantiqueira Mountains in Brazil, and gorgeous Provençal retreat LA COQUILLADE PROVENCE RESORT & SPA, set in a 100-acre estate in the Luberon Valley, between Roussillon and the Colorado de Rustrel.

72 SUITE ENVY Quite literally hovering above the rooftops of Turkey’s largest city, perched on a hill overlooking the Bosphorus Strait and beyond, Nicholas Chrisostomou road tests a sumptuous hotel suite that boasts astonishing views of ISTANBUL.

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100 82 ISLAND HOPPING Southeast Asia is awash with glittering islands that dot its coastlines like bright, twinkling stars on a clear, dark night. A short hop from Kuala Lumpur and brimming with rich folklore and fascinating tales, Kelly Johnstone explores the numerous natural treasures of LANGKAWI. 90 SPOTLIGHT Punctuated by some of the most headturning contemporary architecture on the continent, Dawn Gibson re-visits The Netherlands’ striking second city of ROTTERDAM, where the world’s first public-facing art storage facility recently opened – Depot Boijmans van Beuningen.

1 0 0 T R AV E L L E R L O W D O W N Often namechecked as the nation’s cultural capital and undoubtedly the most European metropolis in the antipodes, Nicholas Chrisostomou and Dawn Gibson are enamoured by the cobbled lanes, burgeoning food scene and artistic spirit of Australia’s second city of MELBOURNE. 1 1 2 TA S T E & S I P R E V I E W A constantly bubbling melting pot of a mega city straddling Europe and Asia, Nicholas Chrisostomou reviews a standout

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Pan-Asian restaurant in ISTANBUL, where the fine food shares centre stage with a funky musical soundtrack.

1 2 1 TA S T E & S I P F O O D S C E N E The past 20 years has seen WARSAW undergo a food revolution. Young chefs who cut their teeth in the kitchens of foreign capitals have returned to their homeland with new skills and bags of ideas and the city is now brimming with innovative restaurants. Joe Mortimer and Nicholas Chrisostomou investigate.

136 STYLISH GLOBETROTTER Whether heading to the sun on your first holiday in forever or vacationing closer to home, Jackie Needleman rounds-up some SUMMER FASHION STAPLES that will work equally well in the Greek islands or on the Cornish coast.

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145 LITTLE BLACK BOOK Web addresses for everywhere featured in issue 38 of The Cultured Traveller, magazine.

1 4 6 T R AV E L T I P S Best known for his hit single Hear Me Now, it’s all about in-flight comfort for Brazil’s most famous DJ and producer ALOK, as he travels the world to headline at festivals and mega clubs.

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JOE MORTIMER ➤ TASTE & SIP FOOD SCENE A UK-based travel writer and editor who specialises in luxury travel and high-end hospitality, and former editor of Destinations of the World News in Dubai, Joe has contributed to titles including National Geographic Traveler, Robb Report and Jetsetter, as well as a collection of prestigious inflight and hotel magazines.

E D I TO R - I N - C H I E F

N I C H O L AS C H R I S O STO M O U C O C O L AT T É G I N O TA M B I N I E D I TO R I A L J E M I M A T H O M P S O N A DV E R T I S I N G J E R E M Y G O R I N G P I CT U R E S S T E L L A A L E V I Z A K I PUBLISHER DESIGN

T H I S I S S U E ’ S C O N T R I B U TO R S

J o e M o r t i m e r, J a c k i e N e e d l e m a n D a w n G i bs o n - Fa wc et t , Ke l l y J o h n sto n e W I T H T H A N KS TO

CONTRIBUTORS

G i o rg os Pa p a n a s , A n a sta s i a Ka ra c h i s a r l i Cit y of Thessaloniki, Fox C ommunications B o ra K i z i l i r m a k , D i re n ç Ko c a , E l e o n o ra Av i n o

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T h e C u l t u r e d Tr a v e l l e r is published by Coco Latté

D AW N G I B S O N - FAW C E TT ➤ TRAVELLER LOWDOWN Dawn is a professional writer and editor who has visited more than 30 countries and lived on four continents. She is equally at home indulging in Michelin-starred cuisine at a chic European eatery, scuba diving in the Red Sea and exploring the mysteries of ancient religious sites in India.

Advertising and sponsorship enquiries: ads@theculturedtraveller.com Editorial enquiries words@the culturedtraveller.com Subscription enquiries subscribe@theculturedtraveller.com

T H E C U LT U R E D T R AV E L L E R ➤ ISSUE 38 © 2022 Coco Latté. All rights reserved Reproduction in part or in whole of any part of this magazine is prohibited. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without written permission from the publisher.

The views expressed in The Cultured Traveller are those of its respective contributors and writers and are not necessarily shared by The Cultured Traveller Ltd. or its staff.

The Cultured Traveller always welcomes new contributions, but assumes no responsibility for unsolicited emails, articles, photographs or other materials submitted.

Download the digital edition of issue 38 of The Cultured Traveller magazine at

➤ www.issuu.com/theculturedtraveller/docs/38

K E L LY J O H N ST O N E ➤ ISLAND HOPPING Having grown-up an expat child and called UAE, Qatar, Spain and Malaysia home, a love of travel is in Kelly’s blood. These days, when she’s not working as a copy editor or dealing with mum admin, you’ll find Kelly planning the family’s next great overseas adventure.

JUNE - AUGUST 2022

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From left to right: Rotterdam; Thessaloniki; Darts & Hearts

by Millo; Belvedere, Warsaw

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NOW THAT TRAVELLING is less frequent for and more appreciated by many of us, careful planning is needed to wisely choose destinations that make the most of our time abroad.

For lovers of city breaks, it’s often natural to gravitate towards the big names such as Barcelona, Paris and Berlin, but one of the most fabulous things about Europe is that the continent reveals numerous charming underthe-radar second cities. Often as fascinating and colourful as Europe’s capitals, their more manageable size makes them the perfect post-pandemic destination for a swift dose of cosmopolitan discovery. Further afield, away from its well-known capitals, Asia is especially awash with vibrant metropolitan gems, their smaller size making them easier but no less appealing to explore. In this issue, we champion second cities around the world and explore the streets of Thessaloniki (page 46), Rotterdam (page 90) and Melbourne (page 100), all three of which exude their own unique characters and delight visitors with their untold gastronomic and cultural pleasures.

ORIGINALLY A FORM OF ARTISTIC AND socio-political expression communicated via urban environments, from humble beginnings, street art has become a worldwide phenomenon.

Today a mainstream artistic genre which has evolved in scale, technique and public perception, works of street art now grace countless cities across the planet, including those of Italian street

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artist Millo, who takes time out of his hectic schedule to talk to The Cultured Traveller. (page 64)

YOUNG POLISH CHEFS who cut their teeth in the kitchens of foreign capitals have returned to their homeland with new skills and bags of ideas. Deconstructing and rethinking traditional Polish recipes for a new generation of diners, Warsaw is now brimming with their innovative restaurants which capture the essence of Poland’s culinary heritage. Having swiftly bounced back from lockdown, Joe Mortimer and I discover that Warsaw is currently one of Europe’s most unlikely gastronomic stars. (page 120) WITH MANY OF EUROPE’S AIRPORTS AS busy now as they were pre-pandemic, it’s easy to get carried away with it all and jump on a plane to literally anywhere so long as you’re away. Don’t. Ponder what type of holiday you really need and plan as you did when you were a teenager, for only then will you truly appreciate the joy of travelling and make enduring memories. And travelling is all about making memories.

Nicholas Chrisostomou Editor-in-Chief

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news

FA S C I N A T I N G C U LT U R A L E V E N T S AND OUTSTANDING FESTIVALS HAPPENING AROUND THE WORLD IN THE COMING MONTHS

MEADOWS IN THE MOUNTAINS FEW PLACES ON THE planet offer such an offbeat slice of unconventional community-based collaborative action as the Meadows in the Mountains festival, which takes place in an eerily beautiful space in the Rhodope mountains, which straddles the border between Bulgaria and Greece. Indeed, the location provides the perfect setting complete with stunning vistas to tune out of everyday life and plug into some good, old-fashioned free-spirited debauchery.

Meadows in the Mountains prides itself on its respect for and integration with the native community. Local inhabitants house attendees and the environmental policies are stricter than almost every other global gathering. This is not a festival about global music superstars, but rather the wild and romantic atmosphere and an overall sense of escapism that comes as much

FESTIVAL OF SAINT-DENIS

from revellers as it does from the diverse range of musicians and artists performing across various stages, each of which has its own, distinct feel.

THIS STANDOUT

perform side-by-side with prestigious Parisian

classical music festival

orchestral acts plus some of the greatest

is hosted inside

artists on the international classical circuit. A

the Basilica Saint-

highlight of the 2022 festival will undoubtedly

Denis, a masterpiece of Gothic art, and is

be the special guest appearance of MC

a good excuse to cross the périphérique

Solaar on 14 June, pictured. A French rapper

and discover a delightful northern Parisian

of Senegalese and Chadian origin, Solaar is

suburb. A main event in the French cultural

one of France’s most famous and influential

calendar since 1968, the festival is organised

hip hop artists and considered by many

by the city of Saint-Denis under the auspices

to be the best French rapper of all time.

of the Île-de-France region, the French

Also performing at the festival will be the

Ministry of Culture and Communication, Le

celebrated Mahler Chamber Orchestra.

Centre des Monuments Nationaux and Radio

31 May - 3 June 2022

France. International conductors and soloists

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www.festival-saint-denis.com

2-5 June 2022 www.meadowsinthemountains.com

NEWSFLASH

FEAST OF ST. RANIERI THE SECOND PART OF an annual celebration which takes place on Saint Ranieri’s feast day, the first regatta was held in Pisa in 1292, during the Palio of Our Lady of the Assumption. Since then, every year, Pisa stages a 1,500 metre dash up the River Arno in celebration of San Ranieri, the city’s patron saint. In memory of the city’s nautical traditions, four narrow rowing boats, each differently coloured to represent the city’s four main districts, challenge each other in a flamboyant race. Each boat resembles a large gondola, is fashioned in the style of the frigates of the Medicean Order of the Knights of St. Stephen founded in 1561 and is crewed by 8 oarsmen, a helmsman and a montatore. Rowing against the river’s natural current, the race starts near the bridge used by trains to cross the river and ends in front of the Palazzo Medici near the Ponte della Fortezza.

16-17 June 2022

SÓNAR OFFICIALLY BILLED AS A

Sónar by Day includes workshops and exhibitions

festival of progressive music

as well as concerts, while the main event, Sónar

and multimedia art, music is

by Night, comprises a series of extraordinary

by far the main focus of this

spectacles held at Fira Montjuïc and Fira Gran

annual award-winning music extravaganza held

Via. The line-up for the 29th edition of Sónar

in Barcelona, which began in 1994 as a networking

includes some 30 new artists hailing from five

opportunity for the music industry. Sónar now

continents as well as a healthy dose of local

attracts tens of thousands of lovers of

talent, headlined by a first-time back-to-back set

electronica who visit the Catalan capital to

from Jennifer Cardini and Perel, and two of

worship cutting-edge artists and DJs and enjoy

the godfathers of amapiano, Kabza De Small x DJ

avant-garde music and spectacular multimedia

Maphorisa performing as Scorpion Kings.

art exhibitions. Sónar features an eclectic mix of

16-18 June 2022

music, technology and art, divided into two parts:

https://sonar.es/en/2022

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KIRKPINAR OIL WRESTLING Oil-covered wrestlers, literally grabbing anything they can in an attempt to beat their opponent, at a traditional, annual wrestling competition which has taken place every summer near Edirne in Turkey since 1346.

27 June - 3 July 2022

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NEWSFLASH

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PRIDE NEW YORK EARLY IN THE morning of 28 June 1969, police raided the Stonewall Inn, a gay bar in New York’s West Village. The ensuing Stonewall riots lasted several days and are considered to be the beginning of the modern gay-rights movement. The first gay pride march was held in 1970 and has become an annual civil rights demonstration around the world. Over the years its purpose has broadened to include recognition of the fight against AIDS and to remember those the community lost to illness, violence and neglect.

Pride New York is now a massive celebration, attended by tens of thousands and watched by even more. This year, a full week of activities, festivities, concerts and shows will culminate in a show-stopping, carnival-like march through the streets of New York on Saturday 26 June, when the city’s gay community will be celebrating its resilience.

26 June 2022 www.nycpride.org

GLASTONBURY THE GRANDFATHER OF

boozy jocks stripping-off at the first sight of

modern-day festival

sunshine, spiritualists and yoga teachers,

gatherings,

dedicated hippies, yuppies, hipsters and

Glastonbury launched

fashionistas. Since Glastonbury is

in 1970 and is now more of a settlement than

essentially a music festival above all else,

a music fest. The size of five or six large

unsurprisingly there’s an awful lot of musical

festivals rolled into one for 150,000 people,

talent to check out and it’s impossible to see

Glastonbury is akin to a short-term

everything. This year’s line-up is headlined by

residential camp for British society’s most

Billie Eilish (Friday night), Motown

arty and is more liberal than anything you’ll

legend Diana Ross (Sunday teatime) and the

see elsewhere during Blighty’s packed

legendary Beatle Paul McCartney, who will

summer season. Such breadth offers

be the festival’s oldest ever headliner, since

something for pretty much everyone,

he will have turned 80 by the time he

attracting a vast and diverse selection of

performs at Glastonbury.

people, ranging from middle-aged

22-26 June 2022

backpackers with portable deckchairs,

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www.glastonburyfestivals.co.uk

NEWSFLASH

BATALLA DEL VINO EVERY YEAR ON ST.

or-garden feast day, locals refer to this

Pedro’s Feast Day in

messy event as La Batalla de Vino de Haro,

Haro – the capital of

or, quite simply, the ‘Wine Fight’. While the

northern Spain’s

main event happens annually on the day of

Rioja-producing region – thousands of thirsty

the patron saint San Pedro, the liquid

locals, together with wine-loving tourists,

madness actually kicks-off the previous night

climb a mountain and literally throw wine all

on 28 June. As the proceedings unfold, pretty

over each other. Some brandish giant water

much all of the townsfolk – from the little ones

pistols loaded with wine. Others are armed

though to their grandparents – gather

with pump-action super-soakers or spray

outdoors in Haro’s cobbled streets and quite

cans filled with wine. Meanwhile

literally paint the town red with wine.

traditionalists opt for gourds, buckets, bottles

29 June 2022

and even old boots! Rather than a common-

www.batalladelvino.com

RATH YATRA ONE OF INDIA’S

(considered to be the lord of the universe and

LARGEST and most

an incarnation of Vishnu, the god of

important Hindu festivals,

preservation), his older brother Balabhadra,

Rath Yatra routinely

and their sister Subhadra. They travel more

draws more than a million pilgrims and

than a mile in elaborate wooden chariots from

devotees to the streets of Puri. Over the years,

Jagannath Temple to Gundicha Temple where

poets, saints and scriptures have consistently

they remain for nine days. During the loud

praised the good fortune associated with

procession, pilgrims vie for even a glimpse of

attending this ‘festival of the chariots’, since it

the gods, since they’re associated with

is one of the only times annually that the

extreme good fortune and the righting

deities leave the temple of Jagannath and are

of wrongs.

exposed to non-Hindus and visitors. The three

1 July 2022

figurines that make the trip are Jagannath

www.rathyatra.org

MONTREAL INTERNATIONAL JAZZ FESTIVAL MONTREAL IS A CITY

the resurgence of jazz in the 1980s, the

WHERE a heady mix of

Montreal International Jazz Festival has grown

innovation, musical

into the largest jazz festival in the

appreciation, joie de vivre

world. Headliners for the 43rd edition include

and public celebration are all important

the Jazz at Lincoln Center Orchestra complete

ingredients of the civic cocktail. It’s a city that

with celebrated American trumpeter Wynton

loves the tradition and history that jazz

Marsalis (pictured), American hip hop band The

represents, but also respects the flexibility and

Roots, which was formed 35 years ago in

improvisation implicit within the genre. The city’s

Philadelphia, and multi Grammy award-winning

inaugural jazz event in 1980 was headlined by none

singer, songwriter and actor Gregory Porter.

other than the great Ray Charles, who helped

30 June - 9 July 2022

invent soul and R&B music. Since then, aided by

www.montrealjazzfest.com

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IL PALIO Deeply rooted in religion and one of Italy’s most famous annual sporting events, this epic horse race takes over the Tuscan city of Sienna for two days every year, and is as much about pageantry and Sienese pride as it is about bareback horse racing.

2 July 2022

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NEWSFLASH

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RED BULL SOAPBOX RACE A UNIQUE NO-HOLDS-BARRED downhill race spectacle, in which drivers use only gravity and courage as fuel (plus perhaps a certain energy drink), Red Bull has held well over 100 soapbox races around the world since the first took place in Brussels in 2000. Now an international event staged everywhere from Australia to Italy, amateur drivers race homemade engine-less vehicles in a colourful downhill battle in front of thousands of enthused fans. This unique, non-motorised racing event challenges both experienced racers and amateurs alike to design and build outrageous dream machines and compete against the clock. Over the years, previous entries have included a piano, a giant baby carriage, a rodeo clown, a massive corn on the cob, a jail cell and even the Golden Gate Bridge. At this summer’s Red Bull Soapbox Race at London’s Alexandra Palace, teams will be judged on speed, creativity and showmanship. This assumes, of course, that they make it to the finish line!

3 July 2022 www.redbull.com/gb-en/events

FIESTA DE SAN FERMÍN EVERY YEAR, THOUSANDS OF Pamploneses (people from Pamplona), plus countless visitors who flood into the pretty Spanish town from all over the world, all dressed from head to toe in immaculate white clothing with red handkerchiefs tied around their necks, fill the streets of Pamplona to celebrate the week of festivities in honour of San Fermín, also known as Los Sanfermines. The festival of San Fermín mixes a variety of contrasts: official and popular culture, religion and profanity, new and old and, as is often the case with a Spanish festival, order and chaos. Celebrations kick off with the launch of a rocket (el chupinazo) in Pamplona’s Plaza Ayuntamiento at noon on 6 July and end nine days later on 14 July. Every day includes a much publicised bull-run, a parade of colourful gigantes or cabezudos (big headed giants), a bullfight, fireworks, obligatory carousing and a copious amount of non-stop partying.

6 - 14 July 2022 www.sanfermin.com

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NEWSFLASH

VERBIER FESTIVAL FOUNDED IN 1994

by Martin Engstroem, the Verbier Festival has since garnered a worldwide reputation for artistic excellence and is now considered to be one of Europe’s most important music gatherings. Every July, the greatest names in classical music circles gather for two weeks amongst the breathtaking landscape of the Swiss Alps, for an exceptional series of dozens of concerts featuring choirs, orchestras and intimate recitals. In addition to showcasing world-renowned performers, promising new artists and talented young musicians from all over the world are invited to perform alongside their grand masters. This year, a re-imagined programme calling for peace, solidarity and the inclusion of musicians from all nations opens the festival on 15 July, with Italian conductor Gianandrea Noseda conducting the Verbier Festival Orchestra in a concert that features Shostakovich’s Fourth Symphony preceded by Rodion Shchedrin’s Second Piano Concerto and Silvestrov’s poignant work, Prayer for Ukraine. At the piano will be Ukrainian pianist Anna Fedorova, an alumna of the Verbier Festival Academy.

15-31 July 2022 www.verbierfestival.com

TOMORROWLAND FOR MANY,

who enjoy the same kind of pulsating music. After

Tomorrowland

an enforced break courtesy of covid, this

is the ultimate annual

year’s festival will take place over three

electronic dance music

consecutive weekends. Designed to impress with

festival. Held in Belgium, the sheer extravagance

a stacked list of DJs that touches on a wide

of this festival, with its psychedelic motifs and

variety of genres and electronic music styles, the

spectacular stages, gets everyone going right

impressive line-up includes Martin Garrix,

from the start and the energy basically never

Deadmau5, Armin van Buuren and superstar DJ

stops. Coupled with open fields filled with tents

Hardwell, who earlier this year returned to the

and camps surrounding the stages for people to

music industry with a new album and global tour

rest and sleep while enjoying the music,

after a break of almost four years.

Tomorrowland is both a musical melting pot and a

15-17 + 22-24 + 29-31 July 2022

global meeting place for people around the world

www.tomorrowland.com

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NEWSFLASH

WORLD BOG SNORKELLING CHAMPIONSHIPS For more than thirty years, the small Welsh town of Llanwrtyd Wells has hosted this unusual and somewhat dirty competition, which requires individuals to swim two lengths of a long waterfilled trench cut through the middle of the weed-infested Waen Rhydd peat bog.

28 August 2022

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MAINE LOBSTER FESTIVAL TWO-HOURS’ DRIVE from Portland and four from Boston, this annual non-profit celebration of all-things lobster is held in the classic American harbour town of Rockland, in the nation’s easternmost state of New England.

What began more than seventy years ago as an initiative to revive local Midcoast Maine marine communities is today an internationally recognised celebration of local seafood. Very much a family-orientated gathering, the proceedings include a parade, live music, a 10-kilometre road race, local arts and crafts, an array of entertainers; cooking contests and fairground rides, not to mention the

COMIC-CON INTERNATIONAL

consumption of more than 20,000 pounds of cooked lobster. Add in clams, calamari, scallops and haddock – all freshly sourced from the Atlantic Ocean – and Maine Lobster Festival is without doubt a marine crustacean-lovers

THE MASSIVE RISE IN

dream! This year’s activities even include a

popularity of animated

race across a makeshift bridge of lobster

films, western cartoons

crates, which is open to anyone brave enough

CELEBRATED IN JAPAN

and Anime, as well as

to risk falling in the ocean with thousands of

for more than half a

video games and fantasy novels, has caused

people watching!

millennium and a historic,

the Comic-Con franchise to grow hugely since

3-7 August 2022

in recent decades. Comic-Con International

www.mainelobsterfestival.com

annual occasion to commemorate one’s ancestors, Obon is based

– San Diego’s four-day convergence of

on a Buddhist legend that tells of the spirits of

costumes and fun – is where fans meet comics

the deceased returning to earth to visit

creators, science fiction and fantasy authors,

their families. The main Awa Odori part of Obon

film and TV directors, producers and writers

lasts for three days in Tokushima Prefecture on

and play in their very own comic fantasyland.

the east side Shikoku, which is the smallest of

For those seeking to reawaken the child inside

Japan’s major islands. While chochin lanterns

them, this lively gathering is literally the perfect

are ritually hung in front of houses to guide in

place to be. Packed with everything from

the ancestors’ spirits, graves are visited, and

autograph signings and costume contests to

food offerings are made at home altars and

animation and film screenings, a massive

temples, traditional folk dances are performed

programming schedule features hundreds of

by dance troupes led by musicians playing a

individual events including hands-on

range of Japanese instruments, including the

workshops, educational and academic

shamisen, taiko drums and the shinobue.

sessions, video games forums, portfolio

Obon ends with the beautiful ritual of Toro

reviews, art shows, a masquerade competition

Nagashi, during which hundreds of candlelit

and the Will Eisner Comic Industry Awards, all

lanterns are released into the ocean, rivers and

crammed into just four days.

lakes and float away carrying ancestors’ spirits

21-24 July 2022

back to the afterlife.

www.comic-con.org

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OBON

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13-15 August 2022

NEWSFLASH

BURNING MAN FOR ONE WEEK this summer, Nevada’s unforgiving Black Rock Desert will spring to life when tens of thousands of people come together for Burning Man, the largest outdoor arts festival in North America and one of the most iconic festivals on the planet. Described as the ultimate culmination of community, art, selfexpression and self-reliance, participants combine their efforts to create Black Rock City, a temporary metropolis dedicated to art and togetherness. Burning Man celebrates alternative lifestyles through music, art and the unique comradery that develops during the gathering. The vision is to “bring experiences to people in grand, awe-inspiring and joyful ways that lift the human spirit, address social problems and inspire a sense of culture, community and personal engagement.”

The event’s name comes from the ritual burning of a wooden effigy, which occurs on the last Saturday night of the festival.

This year’s theme – Burning Man 2022: Waking Dreams – will undoubtedly be an endeavor that involves every person attending this iconic global gathering.

28 August - 5 September 2022 www.burningman.org

LA TOMATINA FIRST HELD IN 1945

the tomato throwing and exactly one hour

and now attended by

later a second firing signals the end of the

tens of thousands of

messy mayhem. There are conflicting

people annually, La

stories about how the festival first began:

Tomatina basically involves participants

some say it happened when two boys got

hurling more than 100 tons of

into a fight during a parade and began

overripe Spanish tomatoes at each other

lobbing tomatoes from a vegetable stand at

until everyone is pretty much soaked

each other. Others believe that the

through! Held in the pretty Valencian town

tomatoes were thrown to protest about an

of Buñol, on the east coast of Spain, La

unfavourable decision by the city council, or

Tomatina is essentially a giant food fight

launched at a particularly bad musician!

held on the last Wednesday of August. The

31 August 2022

firing of a water canon heralds the start of

www.latomatina.org

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DUBAI

UNITED AR AB EMIRATES

rest your

RAFFLES THE PALM DUBAI NESTLED BETWEEN THE CALM TURQUOISE WATERS OF THE

become a destination in its own right in the UAE, with many visitors having no

Arabian Gulf and the city’s skyscraper-filled skyline, The Palm

reason to leave The Palm for the duration of their holidays.

Islands are three artificial islands off the coast of Dubai in the United Arab Emirates. Created two decades ago using extreme land reclamation, The Palm

Filling 25 acres of The Palm Jumeirah’s prestigious West Crescent and hung

Jumeirah is the largest of the three and was built in the shape of a palm tree,

with more than 6,000 Swarovski crystal chandeliers, Accor’s sumptuous

with a 4 kilometre trunk and a fan of fronds lined with luxury villas

second Raffles property in the city opened in October 2021 occupying a prime

and five-star hotels.

beachfront piece of Dubai real estate boasting spectacular sea views.

Today a year-round haven for vacationers, the man-made archipelago boasts everything from water parks to Michelin-starred restaurants and has

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Embodying the best elements of the iconic Raffles brand, the palatial destination resort offers super-luxe accommodation, a wealth of

head

T H E C U LT U R E D T R AV E L L E R C H E C K S O U T T W E LV E N E W S T A N D O U T H O S P I TA L I T Y O F F E R I N G S AROUND THE WORLD

➤ D U B A I ➤ L A U C A L A I S L A N D ➤ R E Y K J AV I K ➤ B I L B A O ➤ AT H E N S ➤ C A M P O S D O J O R D Ã O ➤ L O S A N G E L E S ➤ GA R GA S ➤ T R A N C O S O ➤ SY RO S ➤ KO H SA M U I ➤ P U E R TO E S C O N D I D O

premium dining experiences and a vast array of amenities, including a private 500-metre beach and a Parisian Cinq Mōndes Spa which features 23

Dubai’s glittering skyline.

Raffles The Palm Dubai is also home to a collection of super-luxe

treatment rooms, two spa suites and an indoor swimming pool. A sanctuary of

shoreline villas, each encapsulating the grandeur of the resort and staffed by

well-being and bliss, the spa offers complete rejuvenation for body and mind

Raffles’ famed 24-hour butler service, as is every guest room in the resort.

courtesy of an immersive array of treatments.

Catering to globetrotters, couples and families alike, the resort’s 389

A majestic Middle Eastern retreat crafted by Portuguese and Italian master craftsmen, affording everyone who checks in VIP treatment, Raffles The Palm

keys range from ocean-view rooms to duplex and presidential suites and

Dubai is a lavishly appointed and altogether decadent addition to the city’s

everything in between. All are spacious and elegantly styled with antique

lifestyle, dining and hotel scenes.

furnishings, and offer uninterrupted panoramic views of the Arabian Gulf or

www.rafflesthepalmdubai.com

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LAUCALA I SLA ND

COMO LAUCALA ISLAND KNOWN AS THE ‘GARDEN ISLE’ FOR ITS PRISTINE LUSH rainforests brimming with endemic birdlife and rare flora and fauna, the somewhat remote island of Taveuni in Fiji’s Cakaudrove province is an eco-tourist’s dream South Pacific destination.

The third largest island in Fiji and shaped a little like a cigar, Taveuni is essentially a massive, low profile shield volcano which rises from the floor of the Pacific Ocean. Visitors enjoy incredible diving, prolific bird watching and the perfect balance of relaxation and adventure in Taveuni’s colourful coral reefs and waterfall-laden forests.

One of three privately-owned small islands that lie off Taveuni’s east

F IJI

coast, Laucala is the location of upscale hospitality brand COMO’s newest resort, which is set in unspoiled wilderness bordered by dreamy white sand beaches and framed by incredible turquoise-blue waters. Guests land on the island’s private airstrip after a 45-minute private flight from the country’s Nadi International Airport.

At the heart of this exclusive private island sanctuary, the resort’s nurturing wellness centre, COMO Shambhala Retreat, wholly embodies

round of golf on the hotel’s own 18-hole David McLay Kidd-designed course.

25 standalone residences located on the northern shore of the island

the brand’s philosophy for holistic, healthy living. Signature Asian-inspired

– built in natural Fijian wood in a South Pacific style – provide guests with

massages and body treatments make use of COMO Shambhala’s signature

unparalleled levels of luxury living. Thoughtfully designed spaces at one with

products, as well as the island’s herbs, spices, flowers and fruits and its river

nature, complete with panoramic ocean vistas and private pools, ensure

stones, mineral crystals and rich volcanic soils. Guests can also jet-ski, sail,

that guests make the most of the spectacular island setting.

dive, game fish, horse-ride, mountain bike, hike, play tennis and partake of a

www.comohotels.com

A

n enchanted village, with surrounding vineyards and olive trees and the serenade of the South of France’s eternal cicadas. Deep in the Provençal hills, five-star nights tinged with the heady fragrance of lavender and pine. Relish the balmy Mediterranean breeze whispering across your skin, treat your taste-buds to flavour at its finest, and step into a dream world enclosed within the sun-baked walls of a luxury hotel and spa in Provence.

coquillade.fr +33 (0) 490 74 71 71 | reservations@coquillade.fr Coquillade Provence Resort & Spa Provence, France

RE Y K J AV I K

ICEL AND

THE REYKJAVIK EDITION MAROONED IN THE NORTH ATLANTIC OCEAN JUST BENEATH the Arctic Circle, Iceland is quite literally constantly evolving as a result of rumbling volcanoes, bubbling hot springs, erupting geysers and shifting tectonic plates.

Rapidly becoming increasingly renowned for its culture and history as well as its immense natural beauty, the Icelandic capital of Reykjavík – located halfway between Europe and North America – has recently emerged as a global hotspot of creativity and contemporary art. Indeed, IMAGES: NIKOLAS KOENIG

with the island’s vast nature and rich history feeding its creative population with bountiful inspiration, it’s perhaps unsurprising that Reykjavík’s happening art scene is vibrant and Icelandic artists are openly passionate about the dialogue that accompanies it. And every two years, Reykjavík’s multidisciplinary Art Festival focuses on new commissions and the creative intersection of the arts.

Coupled with sweeping glaciers, stunning fjords and breathtaking natural landscapes within a short distance of Iceland’s capital makes Reykjavík an utterly unique city break destination within a short flight of the European mainland.

All boasting floor-to-ceiling windows and kitted out with custom-made Italian furnishings and large tiled bathrooms with marble sinks and walk-in rain showers, the hotel’s 253 guest rooms and suites are linked via long,

With typical élan, the visionary pioneer of the boutique hotel concept, Ian Schrager, has deftly captured the youth and energetic spirit of Iceland in

A selection of onsite food and beverage venues, including a nightclub,

the new Reykjavik EDITION hotel, which opened late last year in the capital’s

provide a variety of cool places to eat and drink, crowned by a 7th floor

scenic downtown heart. Perched on the harbourside right on the water,

rooftop venue which offers panoramic mountain, ocean and old town vistas.

adjacent to landmark glass-sided Harpa concert hall and minutes from the

Even the hotel’s lobby is a dynamic, social space.

main shopping street of Laugavegur, to a backdrop of glorious mountain

Combining the best of the Icelandic capital with the tailored, intimate and

views with the snowy peaks of Mount Esja within eyesight, the Reykjavik

individual experience that the brand is known for, The Reykjavik EDITION is

EDITION has both set a high new standard of hospitality luxury in the city

set to become a Nordic hospitality destination in its own right.

and made a striking addition to the downtown architectural landscape.

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moody passageways.

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www.editionhotels.com

B I LBAO

RADISSON COLLECTION HOTEL, GRAN VÍA BILBAO lifestyle Radisson Collection property in Spain recently opened in the

Gehry-designed Guggenheim Museum Bilbao, which sparked

historic former headquarters of Banco Hispano Americano, located in

a revitalisation of the northeast Spanish industrial port city when it opened in 1997, Bilbao has since become a magnet for culture vultures and dedicated foodies hailing from around the world.

Tucked into a lush corner of the country surrounded by rolling green

the heart of the city on one of its most prominent avenues, Gran Via. Designed by Manuel Galíndez and built in 1945, the building is an architectural landmark in Bilbao and has been lovingly transformed into a 137-room five-star hotel over six floors, including two impressive

hills, parks and plazas dot the city centre and Gehry’s shimmering

rooftop suites featuring private terraces, jacuzzis and spectacular,

architectural icon now stands amongst other great buildings, including

sweeping city views.

the soaring Zubizuri bridge designed by Santiago Calatrava and Philippe

The hotel’s original Art Deco-inspired interiors were brought to life

Starck’s Azkuna Zentroa, a wine storage warehouse turned multi-faceted

by dAAr Arquitectura, with each space individually designed. Fresh

cultural centre.

interiors of marble, natural stone and wood, as well as an earthy colour

Food wise, Bilbao is home to everything from pintxo bars and family-

S PAIN

BROUGHT TO THE WORLD’S ATTENTION BY THE FRANK

palette complemented with gold and blue hues, provide a chilled

run restaurants to Michelin-starred eateries and fine dining venues,

environment in which guests can relax. Curved lines, welcoming seating

each offering a different take on Basque cuisine, with the old town›s

and the use of numerous fabrics and textures add glamour, elegance

cobblestoned streets providing a vast array of delicious rewards for

and sophistication throughout. Leisure facilities include a gym, spa,

visiting foodies, of which there are many year-round.

indoor pool and yoga studio.

Crowned on its rooftop by the world’s first NKO restaurant by local multi

Hotel, Gran Via Bilbao the perfect location from which to discover

Michelin-starred chef Eneko Atxa, which offers guests a unique fusion of

everything that the vibrant city of Bilbao has to offer.

Surrounded by pedestrianised streets makes Radisson Collection

Basque and Japanese gastronomy, Radisson Hotel Group’s second luxury

www.radissonhotels.com

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AT HE NS

XENODOCHEIO MILOS

GR EECE

BEING THE BIRTHPLACE OF MODERN DEMOCRACY, ATHENS HAS ALWAYS possessed a unique allure. Indeed, there’s something inescapably attractive about the place where the concept of a democratic society was first formed.

A decade after Greece’s financial woes caused many to evolve and reinvent themselves, which has today manifested itself in a variety of hip bars, trendy hotels, funky restaurants and cool galleries liberally scattered around the city, Athens is teeming with creativity at every turn. And post pandemic, the city’s enormous ancient history and massive body of relics is creatively offset by a wealth of artistic energy, a burgeoning culinary scene and a dynamic art culture. The tourism industry is also booming, with overseas visitors flocking back to Greece and filling the capital’s hotels, archaeological sites and best restaurants.

It is only April, but Athens is positively buzzing when The Cultured Traveller checks into new boutique hotel Xenodocheio Milos for a short spring stay. Located in downtown Athens opposite historic Old Parliament House – an architectural gem in the beating heart of the city center – the streets around the hotel may be alive with locals and tourists, but once inside Xenodocheio Milos, calm and tranquility prevail and the affable staff are intent on attending to guests’ every whim.

Dedicated to the Ancient Greek art of philoxeníā, which is a love of strangers and eagerness to show hospitality, Xenodocheio Milos appears to have ushered in a new level of Athenian hospitality by offering genuinely warm and personal service to every guest occupying its 43 refined rooms and chic suites. A tastefully understated lobby gives way to a pair of lifts which whisk guests to their accommodation in a flash.

There’s no waiting around at Xenodocheio Milos – like a well-oiled machine, everything is attended to swiftly and efficiently.

Housed within two neo-classical mansions and a glossy new extension which quietly sits in between, Xenodocheio Milos offers its guests an Athenian home-away-fromhome in rooms that range from the cosy, classic and charming to spacious, stylishly appointed suites with space to entertain. All are thoughtfully designed and wellappointed with high-quality furnishings and premium beds, fine linens and marble bathrooms. The Cultured Traveller’s suite boasts a sprawling, party-sized terrace complete with a huge jacuzzi and views over Old Parliament Square towards Lycabettus Hill. It’s a delightful scene – staying right in the thick of it all, yet somehow separated from the craziness of Athens by an invisible cloak of sophisticated hospitality. As a guest at Xenodocheio Milos, you know that you’re being cared for and looked after, which is a rather lovely feeling.

At the centre of hotel is a beautifully lit, architecturally impressive split-level restaurant, which is the new Athens outpost of Costas Spiliadis’ now world-famous culinary brand, Estiatorio Milos. Established more than four decades ago and headquartered in Montreal, there are Milos restaurants in London, New York, Miami and Las Vegas, amongst others. But being a Greek brand, the re-opening of its Athens outpost in its new location was obviously a pivotal part of the creation of the hotel and restaurant. Unsurprisingly, dining at Estiatorio Milos Athens is a superlative gastronomic experience in every possible way and cannot be faulted.

Xenodocheio Milos stands out in Athens courtesy of its classy simplicity, with attentive, straightforward personal service matching the well-dressed surroundings. By check-out time, you will almost certainly know the names of some of the hotel’s genuinely hospitable staff, which is something of a rarity in the Greek capital, even amongst its grandest hotels. https://xenodocheiomilos.com

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CAMPOS DO J ORDÃO

BR AZIL

SIX SENSES BOTANIQUE THE MANTIQUEIRA MOUNTAIN RANGE IN SOUTHEASTERN Brazil straddles the states of São Paulo, Minas Gerais and Rio de Janeiro. Rising abruptly from the northwestern bank of the Paraíba do Sul River and extending northeastwards for more than 300 kilometres, its 600 of so mountain peaks reach heights of up to 3,000 metres and the region contains countless conservation areas of breathtaking natural beauty, amongst them Itatiaia National Park, which is the oldest national park in the country. A wildlife haven in the heart of brazil, Itatiaia boasts more than 300 species of birds and an array of mountains.

An intimate eco-retreat located at the forested confluence of three river valleys in the heart of the Mantiqueira Mountains, Six Senses Botanique is the sustainability and wellness-focused brand’s first property in the Americas.

Driven by Brazilian authenticity, designed by regional architects and constructed using sustainable indigenous materials, jacaranda wood, natural stone and chocolate slate, as well as 120-year-old wooden beams reclaimed from nearby farms, the property offers 7 suites in its main building and 11 private villas dotted in the hills surrounding it, which are punctuated with springs and rivers. Seamlessly integrating local traditions,

which features treatment rooms, a beauty salon, a floatation pool, an

enjoy the sunny serenity of the Mantiqueira Mountains while feasting on

isotonic pool, sauna and steam rooms, and an expert alchemist to teach

farm-to-table fare that showcases the best of the region’s cuisine and

guests about the abundant local ingredients. Guests can even create their

seasonal produce, including herbs, fruit and vegetables grown in the

own scrubs and body masks to be used in their spa treatments.

resort’s own organic gardens.

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Nowhere is the local influence more evident than in the resort’s spa,

contemporary surroundings and modern-day luxuries throughout, guests

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www.sixsenses.com

ISTANBUL

First Radisson Individuals Hotel in Turkey Unique staying experience in the heart of the Old City www.radissonhotels.com info.hagiasophia@radissonindividuals.com +90 0212 892 66 76

LOS ANG E LE S

DOWNTOWN L.A. PROPER THE LIVELY CITY CENTER OF LOS ANGELES, WHERE THE cutting-edge and the classic sit side by side in gritty metropolitan harmony, Downtown L.A. is in the midst of a retail, institutional and architectural resurgence that’s turning the area into a walkable, Metro-friendly destination dotted with world-class museums, standout restaurants and great buildings.

Feeling somewhat different to most other large cities’ downtown areas, while some blocks are not conducive to family-friendly activities or tourism, others are hip and trendy and sport a multitude of cultural offerings such

UNITED S TATES

as art walks and street festivals, as well as innovative businesses that include indoor/outdoor markets, funky boutiques and pop-ups. An influx of new, upwardly mobile residents has also helped to re-energise the area, and Downtown L.A.’s reemergence is also being driven by open spaces and urban oases such as Grand Park, which offers expansive views from the landmark Walt Disney Concert Hall across town.

Every Proper Hotel is design-forward but obviously different from one another.

Set in a reimagined 1920s landmark brick building in the heart of Downtown’s South Park District, a stone’s throw from the Fashion District, the 147-room Downtown L.A. Proper showcases the vision of internationally acclaimed designer Kelly Wearstler, via a design narrative that blends vintage elements from the building’s historic roots with modern influences to create a hub for local creatives.

Feeling deeply residential, rooms and suites are canvases for curated pieces and custom furnishings, with charcoal and mauve tones lending depth and warmth. A range of thoughtful in-room amenities include fine Fili D’oro linens, Aesop amenities, Kelly Wearstler x Parachute Home robes and Vifa bluetooth speakers. Meanwhile, James Beard Foundation Award-winners chef Suzanne Goin and restaurateur Caroline Styne deliver the culinary delights in three distinct spaces, with signature restaurant Caldo Verde scheduled to open as this issue went to press. www.properhotel.com

GARGAS

F R ANCE

LA COQUILLADE PROVENCE RESORT & SPA FAMOUS AROUND THE WORLD FOR ITS OUTSTANDING natural beauty, with craggy limestone hills, olive groves and forested valleys punctuated by beautiful medieval hilltop villages, the Luberon region of Provence is essentially a massif of the Pre-Alps made up of three mountain ranges: The Petit Luberon, the Grand Luberon and the Luberon Oriental.

Located in the heart of the Regional Natural Park of the Luberon, approximately 70 kilometres north of Marseille in southeastern France, the region is bursting with history, is rich in agriculture and the gorgeous city of Avignon, set on the River Rhône, universally enchants with its art de vivre and immense architectural heritage.

Located on a gorgeous 100-acre estate nestled in the heart of the Luberon

inventory and begun to welcome guests. All accommodation features

Valley in the idyllic village of Gargas, between Roussillon and the Colorado

locally crafted stone walls and woodwork, with a neutral colour palette

de Rustrel, five-star Coquillade Provence Resort & Spa epitomises the

mirroring the colours of the Ocres of Roussillon married with plush fabrics

quintessential tranquility of a relaxed Provençal retreat.

by Pierre Frey, Canovas, Rubelli and Zimmer Rohde. Rooms and suites

Majestically perched on a hill overlooking the Luberon national park, ancient vineyards, alleys of established Cypress trees and 300-year-old olive groves surround Coquillade’s 11th century hamlet, which, according to

are scattered across a collection of delightful bastides, all meticulously decorated to reflect the history and allure of the region.

In all of its food and beverage offerings, sustainability is at the forefront

the legend, was founded by Cistercian monks of the Sénanque Abbey. Two

of Coquillade›s culinary program, with skilled chefs Thierry Enderlin

centuries later, the vines were planted in what is today the estate’s Aureto

and Aurélien Trousse presenting creative menus which highlight the

Vineyard and the hamlet has been lovingly restored to offer 63 spacious

plentiful bounty of Provence. With three restaurants to choose from, all

rooms and suites, a six-bedroom villa, three restaurants, two bars, a cycling

delivering delicious culinary experiences that showcase the earth’s natural

center and a deluxe, multi award-winning spa.

treasures, there really is no need to venture past the estate’s ancient gates.

Five new luxury pool suites have just been added to the resort’s

https://coquillade.fr

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T RANC OSO

B R AZ IL

HOTEL FASANO TRANCOSO OFTEN NAMECHECKED AS BRAZIL’S VACATION EQUIVALENT to Tulum, the tiny bohemian beach town of Trancoso is located on the south coast of Bahia. Once a sleepy fishing town favoured by hippies, who lived harmoniously with the fishing population enjoying the area’s unspoiled beauty, today Trancoso is home to just over 11,000 inhabitants and is known for its beautiful beaches. There are no resorts, no marinas, no fancy shops, no Michelin-starred restaurants and no nightlife.

But it is precisely this lack of fancy trappings that has brought in the international stylish crowd, fashionable Brazilian jetsetters and celebrities, including Naomi Campbell and Beyoncé. Yet despite an influx of monied visitors, Trancoso’s intimate pousadas, small boutique hotels, restaurants and cafés have remained unpretentious, and its beaches and town square have thankfully remained unspoiled by mass tourism.

Occupying hundreds of hectares bordered by Itapororoca Beach - which must surely be one of the most beautiful beaches in the world - around 4 kilometres from the center of town, Hotel Fasano Trancoso is a new luxury

A 500 metre deck which runs the length of the residential part of the

resort in the midst of a Garden of Eden-like setting, designed by famed

property provides guests with a bird’s eye view of the sea and houses two

Brazilian architect Isay Weinfeld and surrounded by native forests, lush

swimming pools. A sophisticated spa with a sauna, a wellness pool and a

botanicals and warm waters.

fitness center offers a vast menu of holistic and relaxing therapies. And an

Guests make themselves at home in one of the 40 individually decorated bungalows which are scattered over the hotel’s sprawling grounds, 100 hectares of which are environmentally protected. The smallest being 60 square metres, bungalows range in size up to more than 200 sqm and provide plenty of space for guests to relax and enjoy the gorgeous setting,

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including private terraces laid with sun loungers.

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onsite restaurant, helmed by chef Zé Branco, presents a seafood-focused menu encompassing Italian gastronomic traditions.

For those guests who wish to completely switch off, food and drinks are served on the beach, and a huge almond tree provides the perfect shade. www.fasano.com.br

SY ROS

HOTEL ARISTIDE LOCATED ROUGHLY 100 KILOMETRES SOUTH-EAST OF THE Greek capital of Athens, the calm and authentic Cycladic island

Guests dine on a delightful roof terrace seated in gorgeous vintagestyle armchairs by Honoré Décoration surrounded by panoramic views of the Aegean Sea and neighbouring islands. A seasonal menu that

the neighbouring islands which can get incredibly busy in the high season.

changes daily is inspired by traditional Cycladic recipes and makes the

An island where Greek traditions and western influences come together

best use of fresh produce from the hotel’s organic smallholding. While the

in harmony, Syros boasts picture-postcard scenes, traditional Cycladic

hotel’s cocktail menu was developed in collaboration with award-winning

architecture, neoclassical mansions, beautiful squares and standout

bartender Christos Gkolfis and an excellent wine list offers some of the

religious monuments, not least majestic St. George Cathedral which crowns

finest Cycladic and Greek vintages.

the beautiful medieval hilltop settlement of Ano Syros. Meanwhile the

GR EECE

of Syros is ideal for vacationers seeking a more relaxed vibe than some of

Each individually designed suite features designer furnishings, solid

island’s capital Ermoúpoli, with its pastel buildings and picturesque old town,

oak flooring, bluetooth speakers and a king-sized bed with a sumptuous

is a stylish and aristocratic town with an elegant European vibe.

mattress laid with top quality linens. The walls are hung with original artworks or photographic prints including pieces by Nicolas Le Beaun

Located in the historical heart of Ermoúpoli, boutique Hotel

Benic and Christy Lee Rogers. Bathrooms feature rain showers and eco-

Aristide occupies a lovingly restored neoclassical mansion and offers

friendly amenities. Three suites boast private terraces and plunge pools.

guests a range of nine suites. Its owners, sisters Jasmin and Oana Aristide,

Occupants of the penthouse suite enjoy one of the best views on the

fell in love with the island and this rather special property, which was one

island.

of the last neoclassical mansions to be built in Greece. Considerately

Smart yet colourful and eclectic with a focus on design, art and

refurbishing the property to maintain as much of its original detailing and

sustainability, the Aristide sisters’ skillful combination of contemporary

generous proportions, using traditional Greek materials including nine

furnishings and lighting with original features and design-led touches

different types of marble, the result is a something of a chic and utterly

makes staying at Hotel Aristide an intensely pleasant Cycladic hospitality

individual island retreat, hidden away from prying eyes yet right in the middle

experience.

of the island capital.

www.hotelaristide.com

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KOH SAMUI

TH AIL AND

KIMPTON KITALAY SAMUI A FAMED, LAIDBACK PARADISE ISLE of pristine beaches, verdant greenery and palm trees at every turn, the tropical island of Koh Samui in the Gulf of Thailand is known for its luxury resorts, sprawling spas, happening nightlife, coconut groves and dense, mountainous rainforest.

Something of a cocktail of everything mainland Thailand has to offer, Koh Samui boasts deserted bays and crowded sun-bathing beaches and everything in between. Its own airport and shopping centre give the island a larger-than-life feel and make it easier to get around and do stuff than on some other Southeast Asian islands.

Derived from two Thai words, kita meaning ‘song’ and lay which translates to ‘sea’, luxury hotel brand Kimpton’s first resort in

a different take on Thai hospitality and Samui’s way of life. Signature perks

Southeast Asia is a joyous ode to the song of the sea as well as the warmth

include a nightly, hosted social gathering, an industry-leading pet-friendly

of human connection and community in an idyllic escape, and this is woven

policy and a range of approachable luxury experiences fuelled by a team

into every aspect of Kimpton Kitalay Samui.

which champions heartfelt human connections.

Located on Choengmon Beach in the northeast of Koh Samui and just

decorated in earthy palettes and wave-inspired furnishings. Meanwhile, five

styled oceanfront resort with tranquility and privacy paramount.

different dining venues cater to guests’ every culinary desire, including an

Occupying a quiet cove on the pristine beach, far from the hustle and bustle of Chaweng, the resort embraces island living while offering guests

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Guests are accommodated in 138 design-led rooms and pool villas

minutes from the airport, Kimpton Kitalay Samui is the island’s only village-

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all-day beach house, a Thai lifestyle café and an onsite bakery. www.kimptonkitalaysamui.com

THESSALONIKI'S MOST FASHIONABLE BOUTIQUE HOTEL

www.excelsiorhotel.gr

PUE RTO E SC ONDI DO

MEX ICO

HOTEL TERRESTRE THE HIGHLY MOUNTAINOUS TERRITORY OF PUERTO

also believed to be the birthplace of mezcal, the uber fashionable smokey

Escondido in Mexico’s south is the most biodiverse state in one

cousin of tequila, now found in trendy cocktail bars across the world.

of the most biodiverse countries in the world. Something of a hidden gem and roughly consisting of a 110 kilometre stretch of coastline that runs from

Located in the jungle outside the town of Puerto Escondido, Grupo Habita’s

pristine Roca Blanca in the north to the towns of Mazunte and Zipolite in the

newest hospitality project, which opened in February 2022, invites guests to

south, the coastal town of Puerto Escondido is in the middle, set between

reconnect with bountiful nature through sophisticated simplicity. Connected

the Pacific Ocean and the Sierra Madre del Sur mountain range.

to the earth, sun and sea and entirely powered by solar energy, Hotel

The region’s numerous microclimates have fuelled the development of

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Terrestre’s sustainable ethos and commitment to providing a sanctuary of

hundreds of botanical, animal and bird species, as well as cultures such as

rest and relaxation makes it an ideal getaway for rejuvenation, a place to

the 2,500-year-old Zapotec and 1,100-year-old Mixtec. Puerto Escondido is

soak in the lush surroundings and a base from which to bond

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with the Oaxacan coast.

An idyllic modern oasis aimed at wellness aficionados and travellers who are attracted to the natural elements, the property›s Brutalist-inspired

with a signature copal scent. And each villa houses a small selection of books.

Hotel Terrestre’s vibrant garden surrounds a wellness area and a

contemporary buildings are nestled in pristine landscape and blend into

standalone al fresco restaurant, where Mexican gastronomic heritage

the lush Oaxacan jungle›s flora and fauna offering stunning views in all

is fused with the region’s rich ecology in an effort to help guests detox

directions.

during their stays. A short walk away, a casual beach club serves health-

Guests are accommodated in 14 interconnected villas which invite

focused drinks. A communal circular pool and a long swimming lane

the outside world in. Each has two terraces, an outdoor shower and

punctuate the hotel’s wellness area. A striking hexagonal spa features a

its own private pool. Exteriors are defined by earth, brick, wood and

chilled water tub, steam room and indoor and outdoor showers.

concrete, enhanced by the addition of clay and sand. Slotted wooden doors

A veritable Oaxacan retreat, Hotel Terrestre is a unique, unpretentious

and windows replace the need for glass. Inside, the inherently earthy colour

Mexican hideaway to relax and reconnect with the earth and life through

palette is complemented by custom furniture by Mexican designer Oscar

simplicity, beauty and rest.

Hagerman. Bath amenities are also locally produced and are fragranced

https://terrestrehotel.com

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WIN

a four-night luxury stay at

the residence 44

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P R I Z E D R AW

SET OFF THE EAST COAST OF Africa, the magical Indian Ocean island of Mauritius enjoys a tropical climate with year-round crystal clear warm waters and brilliant white beaches complemented by a vibrant mix of Indian, Asian and African cultures and an abundance of natural charms.

Whether relaxing on its stunning beaches, hiking through its national parks or luxuriating in its sparkling lagoons, the friendly locals charm visitors and Mauritian culture universally enthralls.

Spread over 25 acres of lush, mature gardens on the island’s east coastline, The Residence Mauritius is a luxe five-star resort of 163 guestrooms and suites, each of which evokes a sense of nostalgia, with interiors combining classic European charm with contemporary elegance.

From taking a Creole cookery class or visiting a Traditional rum distillery to cruising through endemic natural forests and day-tripping to the island’s wild south, the resort offers a multitude of experiences to fully immerse guests in the magic of Mauritius. Meanwhile, back at The Residence Mauritius, guests can choose from a range of relaxing spa treatments at The Sanctuary, dine on a variety of cuisines at a collection of restaurants and sip an expertly prepared cocktail at an assortment of bars. www.cenizaro.com/theresidence/mauritius

TO E N TE R S O A K I N T HE T ROPI CAL VIBES O F M A GI CAL MAURI T I US I N AN IN DIAN O C E A N -VI EW ROOM I NCLUD IN G DAILY BR E A K FAST S, ONE DI NNER F O R TWO A N D L O CA L AI RPORT T RAN SF ERS

Email your contact details to ➤ win@theculturedtraveller.com The draw will take place after 1 September 2022 and the winner will be notified via email. This prize can be used any time before 1 September 2023 subject to availability when booking. Blackout dates will apply. The prize is not transferable to another person. The Cultured Traveller will not share your details with third parties. Multiple entries will be disqualified and excluded from the draw. All entrants will be added to The Cultured Traveller’s mailing list.

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THESSA G R E E C E ’ S C R E AT I V E A N D G A S T R O N O M I C A L LY RICH SECOND CITY

ALON IKI O F T E N DWA R F E D BY T H E N AT I O N ’ S H I S T O R I C C A P I TA L , G R E E C E ’ S SECOND CITY IS DIVERSE, YOUNG -HEARTED, ENERGETIC AND W E L C O M I N G . T E E M I N G W I T H C R E A T I V E S P I R I T, N I C H O L A S C H R I S O ST O M O U E X P L O R E S T H E V I B R A N T P O R T C I T Y O F T H E S S A L O N I K I

Aristotelous Square

Travel

beyond the ordinary A SΙXT car is waiting at your destination

contact:

+30 211 95 50 000 sixt.gr

sixtgr

CITY FOCUS

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F

LOCATED IN THE NORTH OF THE country and lying in a transitional climatic zone in the Thermaic Gulf, Thessaloniki has a warm Mediterranean climate which is slightly cooler than Greece’s more southerly located cities. With a prevailing oceanic climate, the best time to visit is May through October.

Somewhat young by Greek standards, Thessaloniki was established in the late antiquity years and is 2,300 or so years old. The city played an important role for Christianity during the Middle Ages and was for several centuries the second most important city of the Byzantine Empire, after Constantinople. Hence it was lavished with numerous impressive buildings, built in the Byzantine architectural style, and the city was protected by stout fortifications and formidable towers around its perimeter to keep Thessalonians safe from invasion.

POSITIONED AT THE NORTH-EASTERN corner of the old walled city in the historical part of Thessaloniki above Ano Poli (Upper Town), medieval Trigonion Tower is one of the most imposing defence elements of the city's ancient walls and is the perfect place to commence an immersion in Greece’s charismatic second city. For seeing the Byzantine fortifications that still surround part of its modern city center conveys to 21st century visitors the importance bestowed on Thessaloniki by every ruler in the city’s long, tumultuous and artistically vibrant history, due to its strategic

IMAGE: GEORGE PAPANAS

REQUENTLY overlooked in favour of Greece’s charismatic capital, the country's second largest city has a very different flavour to Athens, due in large part to its comparative youth, both in terms of the average age of its population and the age of the city. Boasting a long and unsettled history, rich in art and culture, Thessaloniki is an intensely fascinating place to visit, either as a dedicated city break destination or as part of a Greek road trip, for Halkidiki's three gorgeous peninsulas are just a few hours’ away by car.

location. The Trigonion Tower will also give you an incredible, panoramic vista across the entirety of Thessaloniki.

Within the center of the city, some fifteen remaining historic buildings – all magnificently decorated, lovingly conserved and UNESCO world heritage monuments – collectively showcase the evolution of Byzantine art and architecture spanning centuries of Thessaloniki's past. Since many of them are still adorned by richly colourful wall paintings and beautiful gold-tessellated mosaics, Thessaloniki could be said to be one of Europe’s cultural jewels, albeit somewhat unsung.

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AFTER THE CITY'S OCCUPATION BY THE Ottoman Turks in 1360, Thessaloniki became the prime destination for Sephardic Jews, following their expulsion from Spain by the country's Christian rulers. Very rapidly, Sephardic creativity spread throughout Thessaloniki, greatly contributing to the city’s artistic heritage.

Built in the 15th century after the fall of Thessaloniki to the Ottomans in 1430, the city's famous waterfront White Tower has been known by many names as it has guarded the eastern end of the city’s seawalls for centuries. Today the tower houses a small museum and is probably Thessaloniki’s most recognised landmark. It is said that the tower was painted white by the Greeks when they took back Thessaloniki from the Ottoman Empire during the First Balkan War. www.lpth.gr As if to complicate matters, Mustafa Kemal Atatürk, Turkey's first ever president, was born in Salonika when the city was a thriving port of the Ottoman Empire. Atatürk was formerly an army officer before founding the independent Republic of Turkey out of the ruins of the Ottoman Empire, so Thessaloniki also has a spiritual importance for many Turkish people.

With such a chequered and battle-weary history and having been part of the Hellenic, Roman, Byzantine and Ottoman empires, its perhaps unsurprising that the population of Thessaloniki is multicultural and its communities are diverse. French influences are evident all over the city. Thessaloniki’s Armenian community is influential and the city's colourful ethnic mosaic also includes Slavs, Bulgarians and Roma. Today,

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IMAGE: SAKIS GIOUMPASIS

Clochard

Yedi Kule Fortress

this multi-layered human geography can be seen in the mosques, orthodox monasteries and synagogues which coexist in Thessaloniki.

AS WELL AS INVASIONS, THESSALONIANS have lived through a number of natural disasters over the years. A massive fire in 1917 was utterly devastating for the metropolitan melting pot that had evolved during Ottoman occupation. Destroying 9,500 houses, leaving 1 square kilometre of the centre in cinders and making 70,000 people homeless, the fire left many of Thessaloniki’s Jews

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destitute, causing many of them to depart soon afterwards.

Following the fire, the enlightened French architect Ernest Hébrard redesigned the centre of Thessaloniki in a European style, complete with imposing façades, open squares and boulevards stretching from what is now Aristotelous Square on the seafront to Venizelou Square and the Roman forum. To stress the city's historic connection with the Byzantine empire, Hébrard incorporated elements from Byzantine and Western architecture, rather than the Ottoman era.

Trigonion Tower.

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Today, Aristotelous Square is one of the most famous places in Greece and synonymous with the city of Thessaloniki, playing an important role in the sociopolitical life not only of the city but of the wider country as well. The square is often the scene of large rallies and political speeches and is also used for cultural events, festivals and religious celebrations. Numerous cafés, bars and restaurants line the huge square, making it popular with both globetrotters and Thessalonians alike.

THESSALONIKI MAY BE GREECE’S second city but for many Greeks it is number one for gastronomy. The surrounding area is incredibly fertile, the sea is on the city’s doorstep and an array of fresh local produce is readily available. Moreover, due to its location in the far north of the country, Thessaloniki has been a hive of culinary activity for more than two millennia. Over the years, this has translated into a range of cuisines being served on its bustling streets. With a new café or restaurant popping up almost every week further fueling the

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Charoupi

city’s reputation as Greece's gastronomic capital, eating-out in Thessaloniki is better value than Athens and a multitude of bars, cafés, tavernas and restaurants cater to local and visiting foodies.

LESS THAN 5 MINUTES’ WALK FROM Aristotelous Square, luxe adults-only and pet-friendly Excelsior boutique hotel is the perfect city-centre base from which to explore Thessaloniki. Housed within a carefully renovated historic building and a member of Small Luxury

The Rotunda of Galerius

Hotels of the World, The Excelsior stylishly fuses old and modern in its 34 rooms and suites, including a number of original 100-year-old features. Staffed by a warm and friendly team for whom nothing is too much trouble, to stay at The Excelsior is to rest one’s head in the throbbing heart of Thessaloniki and occupying the hotel’s street-level rooms is one of the best places to eat in town. www.excelsiorhotel.gr Established for more than four decades, Clochard is a relaxed fine dining restaurant founded by George Vasiloglou in 1978, after a massively destructive earthquake of the same year which damaged one-quarter of the city’s buildings, claimed 50 lives and brought about untold economic

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The Arch of Galerius

hardship. Today Clochard is helmed by Vasiloglou’s son, Alexandros and its kitchen skillfully combines traditional, eastern and international cuisines in modern and elegant dishes fashioned from the freshest produce, many of which are made to traditional recipes. To a backdrop of vocal house music, dining at Clochard is both a social occasion and a gastronomic treat. www.clochard.gr

Mamalouka

WALKING FROM CLOCHARD TOWARDS THE waterfront, to the right of Aristotelous Square and set within a Hébrard-designed colonnade, Mamalouka combines the atmosphere of a funky bar, the tapas serving style and bistro touches in

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Check in

to Thessaloniki’s grand past Discover a new hospitality experience in the building of the historic Olympos Naoussa restaurant on Thessaloniki’s seafront.

High level services, gastronomic discoveries with wonderful sea views, will spirit you away

Design: Red Creative, Photos: Yannis Megas Archive, Central Library, AUTH

to the city’s glorious past.

Nikis Avenue 5, 546 24 Thessaloniki, Greece onresidence.gr

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IMAGE: GEORGE PAPANAS

T H ESSA LO N I K I

an energetic and unpretentious restaurant, with tasty modern Greek cuisine taking centre stage. A shabby-chic interior with comfy banquettes makes the dining room an inviting place to laze over a long meal. But if you just want to drink, nibble and people watch, Mamalouka's bar is a great place to park yourself after a busy day, order a bottle of wine and enjoy the atmosphere as the dining room fills up. https://mamalouka.gr

BEFORE THE GREAT FIRE OF 1917, Ladadika was a central market dating back to Ottoman times, which sold olive oil and related products. Literally meaning “with oil”, Ladadika's location close to the port made it the perfect trading post for merchants and traders. Following the fire of 1917, the area slowly deteriorated until it was completely abandoned by the 70s and became something of a salubrious neighbourhood. But when

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bars, tavernas and restaurants began to re-open in the area in the 80s and 90, Ladadika was given a new lease of life and is now one of the most vibrant parts of the city by night. Entirely pedestrianised, its characterful and narrow cobbled streets are lined with neoclassical buildings and spending an evening in the area is a must when visiting Thessaloniki.

On the edge of Ladadika and the brainchild of award-winning Greek chef Manolis Papoutsakis, Charoupi is a down-to-earth restaurant fronted by a completely glazed façade which serves high quality Cretan food. Papoutsakis’ passion for Cretan ingredients is evident in his delicious fare, which is presented at Charoupi in a modern and simple style, every plate allowing its components to shine.

Staff are warm and hospitable and a hand-picked list of affordable Greek wines accompanies a menu which offers something for everyone, albeit lunch or dinner. Indeed, Papoutsakis’ honest and no-nonsense approach to running a restaurant is indicative of a new generation of talented chefs who have chosen to set out their culinary stalls in Thessaloniki rather than Athens. www.xaroupi.gr

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Marea Sea Spirit

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Salonica Restaurant

fresco people-watching and greeting friends, Marea is a spirited and buzzy restaurant, making it a good choice for a weekend night dinner before hitting the bars. https://mareaseaspirit.gr Speaking of which, one of the city’s most jumping bars and a longtime favourite of The Cultured Traveller is literally 500 metres from Marea – Vogatsikou 3 will have you dancing until the early hours. https://vogatsikou3.gr

Ktima Gerovassiliou

OF COURSE, AS WELL AS YOUNG CHEFS with fresh inspiration there are highly experienced established chefs holding culinary court in Thessaloniki, one of which helms the city’s hospitality grande dame, Makedonia Palace. With decades of cooking under his belt toiling in Athens, Monte Carlo, Paris and Hong Kong, chef Sotiris Evangelou today tickles the tastebuds of diners at the hotel’s signature Salonica Restaurant, where his deep knowledge of Greek gastronomic traditions and vast culinary awareness combined with the finest and freshest produce come together in modern and innovative dishes bursting with flavours. Married with a distinguished wine list that showcases the country’s best producers, to dine on the terrace at Salonica is a refined experience to be savoured. https://makedoniapalace.com FOR FRESHLY CAUGHT FISH SERVED IN casual, modern surroundings, Marea Sea Spirit is a restaurant to enjoy the food, drink and atmosphere in equal measure. Popular with in-the-know locals who feast on the catches of the day as they dine al

THESSALONIKI’S APPOINTMENT AS A European Capital of Culture towards the end of the 1990s triggered a change in the fortunes of the city’s landmark port area. Now a burgeoning cultural hub punctuated by huge cranes and old warehouses reimagined as galleries, exhibition spaces and specialist museums, the city's port area feels like the coming together of industry and creativity in working, day-to-day harmony, facilitating cultural and creative activity side-by-side.

The Thessaloniki Museum of Photography, housed in a former warehouse, hosts fascinating photographic exhibitions. Meanwhile its sister space opposite, the Experimental Center for the Arts, supports the expression of contemporary art via a range of disciplines, with a particular drive to support young Greek artists. Both are worth checking-out and are part of the wider, city-run MOMus group of five visual arts museums, which also includes a very good mustsee contemporary art museum close to the White Tower. www.momus.gr/en BEING GREECE’S BIGGEST STUDENT CITY (its four universities have a combined student population of 150,000) Thessaloniki is awash with a youthful spirit and enthusiastic energy that is nowhere more evident in all of Greece, and opportunities have been created for the young population to flourish alongside its ancient

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Bringing confidence in an evolving world www.dbeluxurycruises.com

DBE EXPERIENCES, LUXURY CRUISES AND MORE…

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IMAGE: GEORGE PAPANAS

T H ESSA LO N I K I

monuments. As well as new businesses constantly emerging, a widespread energetic dynamism is palpable and the city’s creative spirit is visible at almost every turn.

Since the 15th Biennale of Young Creators event that was hosted by Thessaloniki in 2011, street art has gradually become more popular and the city now has its own flourishing scene, with a number of impressive large-scale murals now an integral part of the cityscape. The work of both local and international artists, many have changed the urban landscape of Thessaloniki in a welcome and colourful way. In particular, a huge mural painted by artists DAL and Faith47 on a building at the eastern end of Tsimiski Street, to mark the 100th anniversary of the liberation of Thessaloniki from Ottoman rule, is worth seeing.

APPROXIMATELY 25 KILOMETRES SOUTHWEST of Thessaloniki, in a verdant area characterised as Mediterranean by mild winters and warm summers that are gently tempered by sea breezes, lies one of Greece’s hottest wine producing regions.

Nestled amongst the slopes of Epanomi, surrounded by sea on three sides with views of mythological Mount Olympus in the distance, few people have championed and progressed Greek wine more than Vangelis Gerovassiliou and his family, who have been involved in vine cultivation and winemaking for more than four decades and today produce a variety of internationally renowned and multi award-winning wines. One of Greece's top vineyards, setting aside a few hours to visit Ktima Gerovassiliou is the perfect antidote to a busy city break. Don’t miss sampling the estate’s superb Sauvignon Blanc-Fumé, which is made to be

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IMAGES: GEORGE PAPANAS

sipped in the Macedonian sunshine. Also unmissable is elegant Avaton, a sophisticated blend made from Greek Limnio, Mavrotragano and Mavroudi grapes. www.gerovassiliou.gr A couple of miles from Gerovassiliou, positioned on elevated, sloping terrain overlooking the sea and Mount Olympus, Domaine Florian is a much newer and smaller boutique family-owned vineyard producing fine modern Greek wines sustainably and environmentally sensitively. Very much handson, owner Florian Schneider manages all aspects of the estate, which he will likely show you around personally and arrange tastings of his rather palatable whites and reds. www.domaineflorian.com FUELLED BY YOUNG GREEK PEOPLE WHO really know how to enjoy life and a resilient population that has seen the coming and going of numerous rulers, Thessaloniki is a truly multicultural metropolis in which twenty-three centuries of history can be seen in its many impressive monuments.

Boasting a fascinating history, progressive creative scene, established art culture and a unique culinary cosmopolitanism crowning its inimitable character, Greece’s second city has everything one would expect from a vibrant European capital. And some.

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Tell us about your earliest artistic experience?

I have clear memories of painting a wall in my grandma’s house at the age of 5. Drawing, in general, has always been a safe place for me, instead of playing football when I was young, for instance. I was the child sitting at his desk with his coloured pens. My parents quickly noticed this, but I never attended an art school, so I guess you could say that art was my childhood passion.

Did you come from an artistic family?

My parents were not especially interested in art, but my grandpa used to run the local theatre in my hometown, and he was creative.

Which artists most influenced you in your formative years?

N WITH IN CONVERSATIO

millo

WELL KNOWN IN HIS HOMELAND, THE E P I C W O R K S O F M I L LO , A L S O K N O W N A S

F R A N C E S C O C A M I L L O G I O R G I N O, C A N B E S E E N I N PA R I S , L I S B O N , L O N D O N , R O M E A N D R I O D E JA N E I R O. A S H I S P O PU L A R I T Y G R O W S W I T H E V E R Y M A S S I V E M U R A L H E PA I N T S , T H E C U LT U R E D T R AV E L L E R C H A T S E X C L U S I V E LY T O

T H E I TA L I A N A RT I S T A B O U T H I S L I F E A N D W O R K

When I was a teenager, my city didn’t have a place to see or to learn about art.

It didn’t have even a library. Luckily, a few older friends were into music, so music became a constant in my life. I used to listen to a lot of grunge, connected with that musical genre and follow the scenes in the States. I dreamt more about becoming a musician than a painter. Thankfully life brought me to painting because I was not a particularly talented musician!

How did you begin your artistic career?

As I grew up, I painted for myself, since painting was my passion. When I was 18, I moved from my hometown in southern Italy to attend university in Pescara, where I still live today. I was very much into art, but in late 90s Italy it was rare to find any parents who encouraged their children to join an art academy, since art was not considered to be a viable career. As a solution, I decided to study architecture, which I loved. Unfortunately, when I got a degree in architecture, Europe was in the midst of a serious economic

A R T & C U LT U R E

Never Give Up, Santiago, Chile, 2016

crisis and there was no work for me as architect. So I dedicated time to my passion of painting, gradually painted more and more and entered competitions and joined group shows.

Eventually I began to express myself in murals.

What first attracted you to street art and muralism?

I’ve always looked at street art as a challenge, both in terms of the sizes of the surfaces involved and the difficulties in expressing my ideas outside. When I realised that that my works on canvas would adapt to different media – those being outdoor surfaces – and would also give me an opportunity to paint for longer and extend the feeling of peace that painting gives me, I began to paint murals and haven’t stopped since.

Your first public work?

I had been painting small, outdoor surfaces in Italy since 2010 but didn’t

The Power Of Imagination, Kremenchuk, Ukraine, 2017

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consider them to be public works.

My first bona fide public work, which was commissioned by a professional organisation, was a mural I painted in 2014 in Fondi, Italy for the Memorie Urbane street art festival.

The first piece you sold?

In 2006 I created a series of works on canvas about mental health. My style back then was already monochromatic, but totally different to my style today, since it looked like stencil work. The first one I sold for EUR 1,000 was named Asperger’s Syndrome.

When you decided to make art your profession, how did you set about making a name for yourself?

It basically just happened. Every day of my life I painted something, on paper and panels to murals. Little by little, people started to recognise my style.

Eventually I began to receive invitations to join festivals around Europe. That was the moment I knew that my passion was becoming my full-time job.

Some of your works are huge and cover many storeys of a building. Tell us about the planning process for a large-scale Millo work.

Because I’m usually invited to create my works of art, there’s always a team in each location, which takes care of all the logistics. It may look like an easy job but it’s not, because they must deal with permissions, renting machines and organising the paints. This is the boring of creating each work, but without this team, I would not have been able to to paint so many murals in my career so far.

Once I reach the location, I spend the first day sketching freehand the layout of the work, usually on a crane, using a brush attached to a long, extendable pole. I will sketch the main characters and few buildings close to them. From the second day, I start to colour, first the greys to create the shadows, then the other colours. Only once I have finished with the colours, do I add the black freehand.

Where did the name ‘Millo’ come from?

Your favourite work to date?

I really don’t have any favourite works, because behind every mural there’s always an untold story. Much of the time, the story begins when I close the door of my apartment and jump on a plane. For me, every mural is different and has its own story, its own message and reflects a moment in time of my life.

You paint large-scale murals that feature characters exploring their urban setting, largely using black and white linework with added pops of colour. How did you develop this signature style?

At the start of my career, because I just wanted to be fast and realise what I had in my mind as quickly as possible, I found that the sole use of black colour and linework was the quickest to express my ideas. By working more and more, I eventually understood that I could add layers of meaning to my murals.

That’s when I started to add colour, to underline messages.

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It comes from my second name, Camillo.

My full name is Francesco Camillo Giorgino.

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King Of Barriera, Turin, Italy, 2014

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And the trademark character added to your works?

My characters are a medium through which I express what I have on my mind. I use them as actors in a scene and I let them play with what I want to say. Some people see them as children while others see them as aliens. Personally, I think they represent the purest part of us, the part we lost when we grew up, the part we forgot to have, or the part that is still able to be surprised by life.

What inspires the scenes and stories in your works?

Literally everything, from the music I hear to the news on the radio. I allow everything that surrounds me to influence me in a certain way. Every time I am commissioned to paint a mural, I research extensively, because I want to know where I’ll be painting, I want to understand the neighbourhood and know about the history and stories of the place that will host my work.

My goal is always to create something can fits into its setting but can at the same time talk to people who don’t live there.

Name the most significant work in your career to date?

The 2013 B.ART project. I won an international competition to paint 13 massive blank facades on public and private buildings in the Barriera di Milano neighbourhood in Turin. It took me two and a half months to paint them all.

Where is home for you currently?

I’m based in a small city on the Adriatic coast of Italy named Pescara.

We consider it to be a new city because much of it was destroyed in the Second World War. Whilst Pescara is not a particularly creative city, it is full of creative people like me, who often need to travel to express themselves.

Sound Of You, China, Shanghai, 2017

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Dream, Pescara, Italy, 2017

One work in your hometown which is important to you?

In 2017 I painted a mural in Pescara named Dream, which is about emphasising the idea of believing in your dreams as a way to create and effect change in reality.

You have travelled a lot for your work – what is your favourite destination?

Asia has a unique effect on me, not least some of its futuristic styles of urban planning. I particularly loved China.

Is your painting style evolving?

Where would you love to paint but haven’t had the opportunity yet?

Yes - my painting style evolves a little every time I paint a mural.

Brazil because its art scene is incredibly vibrant.

Tell us about your most recent work?

How do you relax?

I was invited to paint a water tower in the centre of the coastal village of Geroskipou in Cyprus. The project involved painting the tower and upgrading the area surrounding it, to give to the residents of Geroskipou a children’s park and sports area. The finished work is called Surround.

I like to walk and listen to music. I also find cooking relaxing.

Surround, Geroskipou, Cyprus, 2022

Where is your next work?

I just painted at the STAMP street art festival in Hamburg and in Helsingborg in Sweden. This month I will be painting a portion of the longest bicycle lane in Italy, that crosses the region where I live. ➤ www.millo.biz

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HOVERING ABOVE THE ROOFTOPS OF TURKEY ’S L A R G E S T C I T Y, N I C H O L A S C H R I S O ST O M O U R O A D T E S T S A

SUMPTUOUS HOTEL SUITE THAT BOASTS ASTONISHING VIEWS

suite envy O F I S TA N B U L

P R E S I D E N T I A L S U I T E ➤

FA I R M O N T

I S T A N B U L ,

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HE MEGA CITY OF ISTANBUL IS A giant cultural melting pot with a massive population of more than 15 million people. Stretching as far as the eye can see in every direction, visiting this vast, sprawling metropolis can seem daunting to some. Being honest, Istanbul is not an easy city to navigate for even experienced travellers and getting around for everyone can prove to be testing. But for those who do visit Istanbul, it can provide inimitable experiences and cultural insights like no other in Turkey.

So if you have the resources to stay at a world-class hotel with a killer concierge team, when visiting Istanbul is the time to do it. Then you stand a jolly good chance of scratching below the surface of Turkey’s most charismatic economic, cultural and historic hub.

A HIGHLY LUMINOUS OBJECT IN THE EARLY universe thought to be powered by supermassive black holes, a quasar is a young galaxy located a vast distance

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from planet Earth. The inclusion of the word quasar is perhaps indicative of Fairmont Quasar Istanbul’s presence in Turkey’s largest city, literally towering above the surrounding rooftops, heading skywards.

Standing proudly on a hilltop overlooking all of Istanbul, facing the Bosphorus Strait and beyond, there is perhaps no other hotel in the city which commands quite such a superior position.

IMAGES: ANDREW BEASLEY, ADRIAN HOUSTON

LOCATED IN THE LIVELY MECIDIYEKÖY neighbourhood in affluent Şişli on the European side of the city, Fairmont Quasar Istanbul is situated within a sleek urban complex which incorporates green areas, public spaces and a city landmark of great architectural importance. With a reputation for its expert understanding of the hospitality industry, the hotel and complex in which it sits were designed

by Wilson Associates, a renowned global firm.

Directly in front of the hotel stands the 1930s Mecidiyeköy Liquor and Cognac Factory. Built to reflect the modern face of the new Turkish republic by renowned French modernist architect Robert Mallet-Stevens, the horizontal, strong and dramatic lines of the reinforced concrete structure are indicative of the period’s modernist tendencies.

Since the liquor factory was built 90 years ago, it has become one of the finest examples of the contemporary art deco style erected between the two world wars. Faithfully restored when the complex was developed, the liquor factory is today an important local architectural icon and used as an exclusive hotel event space.

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SUITE ENVY STRATEGICALLY PLACED ADJACENT TO highways and close to upscale shopping centres in the heart of one of Istanbul’s most prominent business districts, the Fairmont’s central location attracts both business and leisure travellers. Ensconcing them in a contemporary-chic hospitality enclave, the hotel provides both a calming retreat from Istanbul’s teeming streets and a resort-like array of multiple restaurants, bars and leisure facilities. Of them, award-winning modern Turkish restaurant Aila is not to be missed and a few hours spent in the hotel’s sumptuous Willow Stream Spa will re-set even the most jet-lagged globetrotter.

Gold Lounge

A VERITABLE HUB FOR THE WELL-TRAVELLED, uniting the sophistication of modern Istanbul with the city’s unique customs and immense heritage, the Fairmont deftly delivers an urban experience fusing glamour, culture and luxury without being over-thetop or pretentious like many other five-star hotels in the city. Indeed, arriving at the Fairmont is a both a discreet and cultural experience that sets the tone for the premium hospitality experience to come.

Supporting urban culture and contemporary art throughout the property, colourful works by

Ukiyo Pool

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prominent Turkish street artists adorn a number of walls surrounding the driveaway, providing both an interesting arrival experience and introducing an artistic voice from the get-go. This voice is continued in the hotel via an exclusively curated “Flow” collection of artworks displayed throughout the property.

ONCE INSIDE, THE LOBBY AND ITS ADJOINING lounges are elegant and modern without being

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overwhelming or intimidating in any way. Staff are warm and polite, and a bank of elevators whisk guests to more than two hundred rooms and 64 residences which span 44 floors topped by a private helipad.

ON THE 15TH FLOOR, THE HOTEL’S GOLD Lounge provides an exclusive sanctuary for VIP travellers and guests staying in suites. It is here that The Cultured Traveller checks-in for a 72-hour stay in

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the property’s premiere accommodation offering – the 260 square metre Presidential Suite – and is greeted by butlers extraordinaire Ali and Seven for whom quite literally nothing too much trouble. A standout duo completely in tune with the needs of their special guests, their attentiveness and genuine warmth epitomise the service style of the hotel at large.

SPANNING ROUGHLY A THIRD OF A COMPLETE

floor of the building, the hotel’s singular Presidential Suite is located on the tower’s 11th floor, which due to the lofty situation of the hotel, places the suite at what feels like a regal vantage point. Yet despite hovering above the surrounding metropolis, the suite is set just close enough to hear the sounds of Istanbul, ensuring that its inhabitant feel part of the city. For it is the sounds of the city, together with its scents and tastes, which form the basis of Istanbul’s distinctive character.

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SUITE ENVY

TAKING INTERIOR DESIGN INSPIRATION from the liquor factory’s industrial form as well as the building’s art deco qualities, the Presidential Suite deftly juxtaposes luxury and the offering of every amenity with contemporary design and slick functionality accented with Turkish objets d’arts, glass vases and stone sculptures. A variety of artworks adorn the walls and the dark walnut floors are laid with custom rugs and designer carpets. The entire ensemble is designed to give way to the incredible views over the city’s rooftops towards the Bosphorus Strait and beyond, via uninterrupted walls of floor-to-ceiling windows and sliding doors which open onto a long terrace that runs the entire length of the suite. The liberal use of rich timbers and gorgeous marbles throughout the vast suite gives it a luxe, relaxing and timeless urban feel and invites its inhabitants to use and enjoy the space.

So I pour myself a glass of a rather palatable Turkish Sauvignon Blanc, take a seat on the terrace, gaze

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towards the mighty Bosphorus, spot dozens of domes and minarets around my feet and soak in the sound of the city. The setting is incomparable and nothing short of breathtaking and I ponder whether I actually want to leave my luxe surrounds during the three days that will follow.

BOASTING TWO SPACIOUS BEDROOMS en-suite, an enormous lounge, a lavish dining area, an executive desk space, a butler’s kitchen and a separate cloakroom for guests, the Presidential Suite is essentially a fully serviced super-luxe apartment within the hotel.

Ample sofas and armchairs in the lounge

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comfortably seat more than a dozen people while a powerful Bose system provides the musical backdrop.

The dining area is dominated by a huge table seating 12, above which a beautiful contemporary chandelier sparkles. On the wall, an angular mirrored sculpture provides an artistic focal point.

And throughout the suite, numerous other statement works vie for the attention of its inhabitants.

In the master bedroom suite of rooms, an oversized dressing room and substantial spa-like bathroom are attached to a plush bedroom boasting the same extraordinary city views. A walk-in shower room is lined on two sides by full-height glazed walls to the outside world. In the mornings, the touch of a

button electrically raises the blackout blinds throughout the master bedroom suite in unison.

HIGHLIGHTING THE CITY’S DYNAMISM, THRIVING art scene and constantly changing streets, the Fairmont Quasar Istanbul is nothing short of a cultured hospitality beacon in the centre of Turkey’s most happening city, and its magnificent Presidential Suite is a uniquely lofty and luxurious space from which to observe everything that Istanbul is about.

A night in the Presidential Suite at Fairmont Quasar Istanbul costs EUR 4,500 inclusive of breakfast, taxes and private chauffeured airport transfers. ➤ www.fairmont.com/istanbul

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L A N G K AW I M A L AY S I A

malaysia’s tropical island of legends A S H O RT H O P F R O M KUA L A LU M PU R A N D B R I M M I N G W I T H R I C H F O L K L O R E A N D FA S C I N A T I N G T A L E S , K E L LY J O H N ST O N E E X P L O R E S T H E N U M E R O U S N AT U R A L T R E A S U R E S O F L A N G KAW I

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OUTHEAST ASIA IS AWASH with glittering islands that dot its coastlines like bright, twinkling stars on a clear dark night. Some are little more than mainstream, overpopulated tourist traps, that simply offer cheap places to drink and a sandy beach on which to relax. Meanwhile others are so far off the beaten track, that only seasoned globetrotters or die-hard backpackers with a need to escape everyone and everything dare venture to them. An archipelago of some 100 islands scattered 30 kilometres off Malaysia’s northwest coast, where the balmy Andaman Sea merges with the Strait of Malacca, Langkawi falls somewhere in between.

AFFECTIONATELY KNOWN AS THE JEWEL of Kedah, Langkawi is steeped in an engaging history brimming with magic and myth, in which spurned princesses, scorned maidens and dangerous pirates unwittingly come together to earn the tropical paradise its fabled reputation as an island of legends. In fact, mention Langkawi to a Malaysian and prepare to be regaled with countless tales of the island’s rich folklore.

Perhaps the most well-known (yet tragic) story is that of the beautiful maiden //Mahsuri//, who was falsely accused of adultery and then sentenced to death at the hands of brutal villagers. Legend says that white blood flowed from her wounds signifying her innocence and, as she lay dying, she cursed Langkawi to endure seven generations of bad luck.

LANGKAWI IS THE LARGEST AND MOST populated of the islands in its archipelago, which was declared a UNESCO Global Geopark in 2006. Boasting a diverse range of topography and landscape of significant geological uniqueness and importance, dating back to the Palaeozoic

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The St. Regis Langkawi

Era more than 500 million years ago – including some of the world’s oldest, naturally formed gems – Langkawi was shaped by plate tectonics, volcanic activity, ocean submersion and erosion. Today, many different, ancient rock formations have evolved into enticing natural habitats for marine life.

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Indo-Pacific finless porpoises, Indo-Pacific humpback dolphins and Irrawaddy dolphins are to be found in abundance in Langkawi’s shallow, tropical waters and it’s not unusual to chance upon a school of 100 or more dolphins. As well as some of the largest groups of dolphins in Southeast Asia, the waters around the Langkawi Archipelago host one of the largest numbers of porpoises in the region. All of this marine life makes for spectacular snorkeling and diving experiences, not to mention watersports.

Indeed, nature and adventure go hand-in-hand in Langkawi and a vast range of well-organised activities are available to visitors, from cruising in a glass-bottomed boat to parasailing over the archipelago’s clear seas.

SERVED BY ITS OWN INTERNATIONAL airport, Langkawi is just a 60-minute flight from Kuala Lumpur and 90 minutes from Singapore.

A window seat on the plane will afford you an opportunity to take in the full glory of this paradise

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Dayang Bunting Marble Geoforest Park

Pantai Tengah

island, surrounded by azure waters and elegantly rimmed by white powdery beaches, and you’ll most fly likely over Pulau Payar as you come into land.

Located 30 kilometres south of Langkawi in the north of the Strait of Malacca, and officially declared a marine park in 1985, Pulau Payar is a collection of four emerald green islands surrounded by coral reefs which are home to numerous endangered marine species. It takes about an hour to reach Pulau Payar by speed boat from Langkawi. Once there, you can snorkel for hours amongst a plethora of tropical fish above incredible coral reefs and will probably also encounter baby blacktip sharks. Often leaping above the surface, rotating several times and splashing down on their backs as part of a stealthy feeding method to strike at schools of fish near the surface of the water, blacktips can grow up to 8 feet in length and weigh more than 200 pounds but typically shy away from humans.

ESSENTIALLY ALL ABOUT NATURE, Langkawi is home to dense lush forests, white sand beaches, cascading waterfalls, limestone cliffs and an abundance of caves, with areas as diverse as mangrove forests, sandstone mountains, tidal flats and reefs coexisting in abundance and harmony.

Since many of Langkawi’s natural formations are steeped in legend or a story of old, every tale adds to the mystique and allure of the island.

Some of Langkawi›s caves were subterranean streams millennia ago or formed part of a primordial seabed. A few even contain archeological artifacts, cave paintings and mysterious human markings that have yet to be deciphered.

THE SECOND LARGEST ISLAND IN THE Langkawi archipelago, Dayang Bunting is one of three, main geoforest parks within Langkawi›s UNESCO Global Geopark and features an array of caves and karstic landscapes surrounded by dense rainforest-covered hills. Located 18 kilometres

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south of Langkawi and well worth a half-day trip, the island’s biggest draws are its large freshwater lake, natural sea stacks, marble and limestone formations. Also known as the ‘Lake of the Pregnant Maiden’, local legend has it that its waters are beneficial to women›s fertility. Possibly contributing to this tale is that, from afar, the outline of the lake appears to resemble a heavily pregnant woman lying on her back.

OF ALL LANGKAWI’S NATURAL ATTRACTIONS, perhaps the island’s most spectacular are its stunning, sandy beaches. Some stretching for miles, most are genuinely tranquil and year-round you will never see people fighting for sunbathing space or blocking the view of an incredible sunset.

Being the most popular beach on Island, Pantai Cenang offers the most cafés and restaurants to

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attract tourists, so is best avoided. But also on Langkawi’s western coastline, dreamy Pantai Tengah begins at the southern end of Pantai Cenang and runs southwards for about 700 metres.

Had there not been a rocky cliff separating the two, the beaches would have been one. Fringed by coconut and palm trees gently swaying in the breeze providing some welcome shade, Pantai Tengah boasts that rare blend of thick white sand mixed with shades of yellow that one sinks into as it’s stepped on. Watching the sunset on Pantai Cenang is a wholly spellbinding experience.

AS WITH MANY OF LANGKAWI’S NATIVE charms, several legends and stories shroud the origin of the enigmatic black sand beach of Pantai Pasir Hitam on the island’s northern shore.

Approximately 25 kilometres from Pantai Cenang,

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regardless of how its marble-textured sands became black and white, because this particular beach generally attracts less visitors, it offers a unique sense of calm and serenity. Home to one of Langkawi’s oldest fishing villages, the restaurants close-by also serve the freshest catches of the day.

Sitting gracefully near the town of Kuah – which is the jump-off point for most trips to nearby islands – Pantai Beringin is something of a beach sanctuary due to its lack of beach activities. Punctuated by coconut palms and sheltered by cliffs, Beringin is popular with surfers thanks to its steady and high waves.

CLOSE TO PANTAI BERINGIN ON THE southern tip of the island, plush St. Regis Langkawi resort sits within its own secluded cove. Here, the tropical surroundings blend effortlessly with

crisp, modern interiors with Moorish influences accentuating the hotel’s classic-contemporary aesthetic. With some of the world’s most revered hotel designers having played a part in the creation of this unique vacation destination, it’s little wonder that The St. Regis Langkawi is one of the finest hotels on the island. www.stregislangkawi.com EASILY ACCESSIBLE BY PLANE AND BOASTING a wealth of natural wonders as well as a good selection of luxury accommodation and a variety of dining options, Langkawi is an island which begs to be explored. An excellent choice for those wishing to escape, unwind, discover and enjoy nature, the numerous marine treasures of the archipelago also provide untold pleasures for those willing to dive below the surface.

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R O TT E R D A M THE NETHERLANDS

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he massive new Depot Boijmans Van Beuningen – the world’s first public-facing art storage facility, which has a permanent work by Pipilotti Rist projected onto its side – is the latest of many head-turning buildings which dot the Dutch second city of Rotterdam, making it one of the most distinctive and modern metropolises on the European continent today.

RE-INVENTED AS A MATTER OF NECESSITY after the city centre was almost completely destroyed during WWII, the Netherlands’ strategically positioned North Sea port city, at the mouth of the river Nieuwe Maas, is an ever-evolving tribute to the vision of future thinking international architects, not least, renowned Rotterdam-born Rem Koolhaas.

The city’s glittering blue waterfront and wide, well-kept thoroughfares are flanked by futuristic skyscrapers that compete to be noticed. Yet the

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soaring creations of glass, steel and chrome are interspersed at street level with a plethora of modern art and sympathetic landscaping that keep the mood friendly and human. And beyond the award-winning architecture, numerous unique facets continually contribute to the growing reputation of the nation’s second city as a chic alternative for cultured travellers, especially amongst those international adventurers seeking something different to the usual city break destinations.

WHILE IT WILL NEVER RIVAL AMSTERDAM’S reputation for hedonism, Rotterdam has a more nuanced ability to delight in a way that has found favour with an increasing number of visitors inthe-know. As Europe’s largest cargo port, it may seem the most unlikely of contenders for the latest hip, happening and cultural destination. However, initial impressions are often deceiving, just as much as for cities as they are for people. Gaze beyond the bustling port known as the ‘Gateway to Europe’ and suddenly a multitude of world-class art galleries and museums come into view, within an easy stroll from

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Kunsthal

charming streets bursting with bohemian cafés and lively nightspots.

TRAVELLING GOURMANDS RELISH THE wealth of places to eat in Rotterdam, including a variety of fine dining establishments spanning many

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culinary cultures, not least two Michelin-starred FG Restaurant, Parkheuvel and Restaurant Fred.

In fact, Michelin stars seem to come relatively easy to Rotterdam’s restaurants, which is something of an achievement for a city of just over 600,000 people. Yet whilst the number of inhabitants may be relatively small, Rotterdammers certainly know how to enjoy themselves, courtesy of a very full calendar of festivals, exhibitions, cultural and sporting events, including Koningsdag (King’s Day) in April and Europe’s second largest annual Caribbean carnival, Zomercarnaval every July. www.zomercarnaval.org AS ONE WALKS AROUND THE CITY, A multitude of surprises abound. Walk the streets or catch a water taxi and you will soon discover that, while most of Rotterdam is bold and modern, there are pockets of the old town waiting to be discovered down quiet laneways and sleepy canals, telling snippets of a fascinating maritime story that started when a little fishing village sprung up beside a dam built in the Rotte River around 1270. Elegant canal

Euromast

houses are not as ubiquitous as in Amsterdam, but they are there if you care to look. Also visible are smart gingerbread and cream 19th century mansions, the status symbols of an era when some made their fortune on the seas while others gathered on the docks to emigrate en masse, hoping that brighter days were waiting for them in the New World.

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Part of the Westersingel sculpture park

WHILE YESTERYEAR’S TRAVELLERS WOULD arrive and depart Rotterdam by steamship, the city is well serviced today by numerous airlines flying into RTM airport as well as much larger Schiphol, the latter providing the most choice in terms of fares and flight times. From Schiphol, a 30-minute train ride into Rotterdam Centraal, the city’s main railway station, is a faster option than driving or taking a taxi.

Rotterdam has an efficient and extensive public transport network well connected to RET intercity and inter-country trains, so unless you’re planning to drive out of the city, you won’t need a hire car. A three-day Rotterdam Welcome Card, providing unlimited travel on the RET metro, tram and bus networks costs just EUR 24.50 and also includes discounts on many museum admission fees as well as a number of attractions. www.rotterdamwelcomecard.com TO GET YOUR BEARINGS ON DAY ONE, head straight for the imposing Euromast observation tower, which offers unrivalled panoramic vistas across the city. Designed by Hugh Maaskant and built in the late 50s to a height of 100 metres, before being

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extended upwards a decade later to 185, the tower is located in the city’s Scheepvaartkwartier district.

Halfway up, Euromast’s restaurant serves tasty fare or afternoon tea at reasonable prices, complete with expansive city views. The tower’s main viewing platforms are at 100 and 112 metres. Then a rotating, circular lift takes visitors to the very top, providing far-reaching 360-degree vistas of Rotterdam through giant windows as it rises to 185 metres. Euromast is a wonderful way to literally get a big picture of the city. www.euromast.nl FROM EUROMAST, THE KUNSTHAL IS A short 10-minute level walk. A modern, glass-fronted architectural pearl by Rem Koolhaas that showcases temporary art and cultural exhibitions, it’s easy to spot the wide, low silhouette of one of the 1990s most talked about buildings. Inside, seven exhibition spaces host continually changing displays of new wave design, fashion, photography, digital art and modern masterpieces, with several cutting-edge exhibitions often on display at the same time. www.kunsthal.nl The city’s iconic Erasmus Bridge is a few minutes from the Kunsthal and links the north and

Depot Boljmans Van Beuningen

south of Rotterdam across the Maas. Affectionally dubbed ‘The Swan’ by locals because of its distinctive shape, the impressive steel suspension bridge was designed by Ben van Berkel and is today a city landmark.

AFTER 24-HOURS IN ROTTERDAM IT IS evident that walking is the most pleasurable way to get around because there is just so much to see en route. The Westersingel sculpture trail is a perfect example.

Starting at Rotterdam Centraal – a work of art in its own right, with its dramatic solar panel-clad roof – and walking along the Westersingel canal towards Westzeedijk, the route features 17 works from the city’s international collection, including major pieces

by Rodin, Carel Visser, Joel Shapiro and Umberto Mastroianni. The canal setting complements the art well, the sculptures seamlessly blending into the urban landscape and providing aesthetically beautiful distractions from the buildings. Yet the sculptures are very much a cultural amuse-bouche, whetting one’s artistic appetite for the sights within Museumpark at the southern end of Westersingel.

The park includes Museum Boijmans Van Beuningen, which houses a world-class collection of Dutch and European masterpieces, and the new depot cum museum, Depot Boijmans Van Beuningen, which provides a new type of experience for museum goers. Housing the museum’s complete collection of more than 150,000 pieces, thanks to the depot’s reflective façade, the building is already fully integrated into its surroundings despite its not insignificant size. Don’t miss the depot’s rooftop urban forest, at a height of 35 metres, which has already won awards. www.boijmans.nl ONCE YOU HAVE HAD YOUR FILL OF museums, walk back to the Westersingel and amble down the Witte de Withstraat, the city’s artistic

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Delfshaven

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Markthal

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heart, which is lined with galleries, avante garde fashion boutiques, hipster cafes, restaurants and bars. Immerse yourself in new media art and underground films at alternative cultural centre WORM www.worm.org, or while away an hour at the Witte de With Center for Contemporary Art. www.wdw.nl

AS DAY TURNS TO NIGHT, THE WITTE DE Withstraat is an uber cool place to be, since not only is the street well known for its vibrant eating and drinking, but the entire area is art central and hence brimming with fun and creative types.

Visit Supermercado for feisty Latin American fare and chilled tequilas www.supermercadorotterdam.nl, Café LaBru for CafeLaBru and relaxed drinks with friends subterranean German-styled Wunderbar for craft beers, live gigs and alternative DJ sets. https://worm.org/spaces/wunderbar LESS THAN 10 MINUTES’ WALK FROM Witte de Withstraat, another neighbourhood with an intriguing past and present is Laurenskwartier, which is home to the only building that survives from medieval times. Built between 1449 and 1525, the Church of St. Lawrence today stands proudly beside some of Rotterdam’s most cutting-edge

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contemporary structures, including Piet Blom’s famous Cube Houses, and one of the city’s newer landmarks, MVRDV’s spectacular Markthal.

A space-age horseshoe of 228 apartments arching over a vast, covered market hall containing 96 market stalls and eight restaurants, Markthal is located on the original site of Rotterdam, which dates back to the 13th century and a variety of historic artefacts found during its construction finds are now displayed, museum-like, adjacent to escalators serving the vast car parks four storeys below ground. The effects of Markthal’s opening in 2014 have been vast, extending to many local residents even calling the area Markthalkwartier (Markthal quarter) rather than its traditional

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name of Laurenskwartier. Inside, Markthal is a gastronomic wonderland of colours, smells and textures, with stalls offering a boggling variety of processed meats, pyramids of yellow, crimson and smoky brown spices, fresh seafood laid out on beds of ice and, of course, dozens of varieties of cheese. www.markthal.nl After parting with some of your holiday money at Markthal, jump on a metro and make your way across town to explore an entirely different pocket of Rotterdam.

LIKE LAURENSKWARTIER, DELFSHAVEN IS one of the jewels of the old city that miraculously survived the 1940 bombardment. On the right bank

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of the river, not far from Euromast, Delfshaven feels a world away from the busy streets surrounding it. Stroll along its waterside, herringbone-paved lanes and the sounds of cars and trams fade into the distance, replaced by the tinkle of bicycle bells and the soft chatter of old friends seated at al fresco cafés. Old-fashioned streetlamps line the waterfront and it’s so quiet that you can hear church bells chime as you admire the boats moored in the little marina.

Dating back to 1389, Delfshaven has a wonderfully rich history. Not least, it was both the departure point for the Pilgrim Fathers’ journey to the Americas, and the birthplace of Dutch maritime hero Piet Hein. Previously home to herring fishermen and gin distillers, the tall, handsome

canal houses are now used as art studios, antique stores, gin bars and beer breweries. Pitstop for a drink at one of the pocket-sized pubs and wander back outside to enjoy the inimitable, picturesque setting.

THE OLD AND NEW SITTING SIDE BY side, seemingly seamlessly fused in one dynamic, innovative and constantly moving city, is the essence of Rotterdam and what gives the Netherlands’ second city its unique energy. Add to this Rotterdam’s multilayered past, the ghosts of seafarers and fishermen, merchants and pilgrims, and the result is a rather special city break destination with an intensely charismatic heart.

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MELBOURNE AUSTRALIA

FA S C I N A T I N G C U LT U R A L E V E N T S AND OUTSTANDING FESTIVALS HAPPENING AROUND THE WORLD IN THE COMING MONTHS

australia’s artistic capital N I C H O L A S C H R I S O ST O M O U A N D D AW N G I B S O N A R E E N A M O U R E D B Y

THE COBBLED LANES, BURGEONING FOOD S CENE AND ARTISTIC SPIRIT O F A U S T R A L I A’ S C U LT U R A L LY R I C H S E C O N D C I T Y

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FTEN NAMECHECKED AS the nation’s cultural capital and undoubtedly the most European metropolis in the antipodes, while Melbourne may be less wellknown and marginally less populous than Sydney, the capital of the state of Victoria is a delightfully modern world city complete with a genuinely kind and welcoming heart. For many, Melbourne is more edgy and characterful than any other city in Australia.

And now that the antipodes have re-opened to international travellers, Melbourne’s Victorian charms, feisty attitude, artistic spirit, happening restaurant scene and hip bar culture are all ripe for rediscovery in a new post-pandemic world of greater global appreciation.

MELBOURNE EMBODIES A WIDE VARIETY of elements that appeal to seasoned travellers, not least, intriguing streetscapes mixing contemporary design with handsome 19th century terrace houses and glorious art deco landmarks; a flourishing and constantly evolving food scene punctuated by some of the continent’s best restaurants; internationally revered art galleries and world-class museums; lush parks and sprawling gardens and, last but by no means least, some of the best coffee shops on the planet. It’s perhaps unsurprising therefore, that Melbourne has repeatedly been namechecked as the most liveable city in the world, beating Vienna and Vancouver.

FOUNDED IN 1835 ON THE NORTH BANK OF the Yarra River, taking advantage of the natural bay of Port Phillip, Melbourne is made for exploration on foot, for its streets were designed and laid out in an easy-to-navigate grid system. And for those a little short of time, getting around by public transport and taxis is relatively stress-free.

Melbourne has the largest urban tram network in the world and tram rides within the centre of the city are completely free. For travel by train, tram and bus, buy a re-usable ‘myki’ smartcard at main train stations or online. Seven days of unlimited travel within Melbourne’s two central zones will set you back just AUD 46, which is less than four Pounds per day. www.ptv.vic.gov.au

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CONTEMPORARY MELBOURNE DEFTLY ACHIEVES a harmonious balance between a glorious past and a thriving present. Just decades after it was founded, the fledgling community on Australia’s south-eastern coast became one of the biggest and richest cities in the world as a result of the gold rush of the 1850s. As hundreds of thousands of prospectors flocked to its shores, glorious Victorian architecture sprung up, much of which is happily still evident today.

Following the federation of Australia in 1901, Melbourne served as the new seat of government for more than twenty years, until 1927. Hence, as a result of its pivotal role in the nation’s history, Melbourne is home to some of Australia’s oldest and most significant cultural landmarks, including the UNESCO World Heritage-protected Royal Exhibition building and the city’s world-famous cricket ground, both of which date back to the 1800s.

THE BEST WAY TO VISUALISE MELBOURNE is as a network of neighbourhoods radiating out from the Yarra River, each with its own style and ambience.

From the buzzing Southbank on the south side of the Yarra and the adjacent, more relaxed Docklands district, to the upmarket boutiques, cafés and cocktail lounges of South Yarra and the laid-back seaside suburb of St Kilda, it’s worth setting aside at least half a day to explore each neighbourhood and absorb its unique characteristics. But a meteorological word of warning: while Melbourne enjoys a temperate climate of warm summers and cool winters, the weather is notoriously fickle, so a bright sunny morning can easily turn into a raging thunderstorm in the space of an hour. The song Four Seasons in One Day, by Melbourne band Crowded House, sums-up the city’s variable climate perfectly, so do check the forecast every time you head out and don’t ignore the lead of locals who often wear layers!

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THE NATURAL PLACE TO START A Melbourne immersion is the city’s central business district, where an abundance of inviting al fresco cafés and semi-hidden bars jostle for space along cobbled laneways amid antique emporiums, jewellery shops and boutiques showcasing Australian and international designers. Of course, there are the department stores and global chains one finds everywhere, but it is the original and quirky which make Melbourne’s CBD such a fascinating place to explore.

The heart of Melbourne’s rag trade in the mid-20th century, Flinders Lane today is something of a food and beverage destination, brimming with awardwinning restaurants, boutique bars, contemporary galleries and vintage shops and really coming alive at night.

From Flinders Lane, head towards Russell Street and turn into Hosier Lane, which is renowned for its ever-changing canvas of colourful graffiti and street art. Whilst Hosier is a tourist hotspot and undoubtedly Melbourne’s most popular concentration of graffiti, other less popular city laneways boast street art of a higher standard, amongst them, AC/ DC Lane off Flinders and Croft Alley in the centre of Chinatown.

Not to be missed for lovers of pop art is the energetic mural painted by Keith Haring in 1984 in Collingwood. Today, Haring’s now iconic mural is at the centre of an arts precinct named Collingwood

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Flinder’s St Railway Station

The National Gallery of Victoria State Theatre Melbourne

ACROSS THE ROAD FROM FED SQUARE, Flinders Street Station was the first railway terminus built in any Australian city. The first ever station on the site opened in 1854. The famous French Renaissance edifice which replaced it, completed in 1910, was the result an architectural competition held in 1902. Having recently emerged from a AUD 100 million upgrade, the station is a historic city landmark and a cultural icon of Melbourne.

Yards, where community and creativity meet in harmony. A not-for-profit organisation, the precinct provides permanent and affordable homes for hundreds of creative workers and artists working across music, visual arts, performance, digital media https://melbourneharingmural.com.au and beyond.

A FEW HUNDRED METRES FROM HOSIER Lane on the edge of Melbourne’s CBD, Federation Square is a modern piazza that has become the city center’s public square since opening 20 years ago. An architectural landmark and popular local gathering spot, the square is often the location for many of https://fedsquare.com Melbourne’s festivals.

FIVE MINUTES’ WALK FROM THE STATION, crossing the Yarra to Southbank, the Arts Centre Melbourne boasts the highest concentration of arts organisations on the continent and is in the throes of being transformed into one of the greatest creative and cultural destinations in the world. Home to both Australia’s busiest performing arts centre and Australia’s most visited art gallery (The National Gallery of Victoria), thousands of performances and exhibitions are staged in its venues every year, making the Arts Centre Melbourne a year-round cultural magnet for both locals and visitors alike. www.artscentremelbourne.com.au

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Royal Botanic Gardens

MELBOURNE’S MUSEUMS ARE AMONGST the best in Australia. Scattered around the city, more than 30 world-class museums offer an incredible variety of experiences and span the genres of science, film, sports and Greek culture as well as the more traditional arenas of contemporary, modern and classic art.

Just last year alone, new state-of-the-art Science Gallery Melbourne and THE LUME Melbourne

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were unveiled, the former being the first and only Australian node in the internationally acclaimed Science Gallery Network. https://melbourne.sciencegallery.com Meanwhile THE LUME is an immersive digital gallery featuring cutting-edge floor-to-ceiling projections and multisensory experiential experiences. https://thelume.com/global Next scheduled for 2023, the NGV Triennial

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presents a multitude of projects spanning contemporary art, design and architecture produced by more than 100 artists, designers and collectives hailing from dozens of countries. The 2023 NGV Triennial is surely one for any art aficionado visiting www.ngv.vic.gov.au Melbourne next year.

After exploring so many galleries and absorbing so much artistic culture you’ll be needing to pit stop for refreshment. Thankfully Melbourne’s Arts Centre is

located on the edge of one of the city’s most inviting hubs for eating and drinking so you won’t have far to walk. Built on prime riverfront real estate right next to the city centre, Southbank boasts a glitzy promenade bursting with stylish eateries and trendy bars. Some Southbank venues are heavily tourist-orientated and a tad over-priced, but a few are less pretentious and offer hearty fare at reasonable prices.

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MELBOURNE’S BEAUTIFUL GARDENS AND public parks are considered by many to be the best in Australia, with the Royal Botanic Gardens the bucolic emerald in the city’s green crown. Sprawling over 38 hectares in Southbank, around a kilometre from the Arts Centre, the gardens encompass lakes, lawns and some 50,000 individual plants grouped into dozens of separate collections, including a cacti garden, rare and threatened species and an Aboriginal heritage walk. Keep your eye out for the gorgeous black swans. www.rbg.vic.gov.au FOR DECADES, MELBOURNE HAS BEEN renowned for its wonderfully diverse multicultural culinary scene, the legacy of waves of immigration since its Gold Rush days. Today, the city’s restaurant landscape is fiercely innovative and punctuated by some highly talented and visionary chefs, all of whom make excellent use of an abundance of fresh, local produce.

Gourmands in the know are sure to have heard of Attica. A regular in The World’s 50 Best list, chef Ben Shewry’s clever use of native ingredients and his ability to deliver emotional, boundary-pushing Australian cuisine results in a premium dining experience to rave about for weeks. www.attica.com. au But you don’t need to spend a fortune to eat good food in Melbourne and the city’s culinary diversity makes it possible to sample a wonderful variety of cuisines without blowing your holiday budget.

For unpretentious seasonal plates and an extensive list of speciality wines which highlights inspired varietals from the region, take a pew at Edwin Wine

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Bar and Cellar which occupies the ground floor of landmark Southbank Tower. www.edwinwinebar.com.au Red Emperor has been serving excellent classic Chinese cuisine since the mid-1990s, including good value all-you-can-eat Cantonese brunch style Yum Cha every day. https://redemperor.com.au

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POPULAR WITH FOODIES, NIGHT OWLS AND fashionistas, the bohemian suburb of Fitzroy is known for its vibrant mix of hip bars, art galleries, cafés and home-grown designers. Brunswick Street is the perfect place to start exploring the neighbourhood, with a flat white sipped to a backdrop of locals chatting about yoga, mindfulness and artists’

residences. Pose for a picture on one of the mosaictiled couches – an enduring symbol of Fitzroy’s ubiquitous street art – before strolling down the strip, where you will be hard pressed to decide where to dine, drink or shop. Many of the boutiques and cafés were hipster haunts before hipster was a thing and the upbeat vibes in the air are positively contagious.

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WHEN IT COMES TO MUSIC AND NIGHT life, Melbourne’s bar and after-hours scene is hugely varied, somewhat eclectic and ever-changing. The fact that the city has also produced a number of Grammy awardwinners, rock and pop stars, chart toppers and contemporary singer-songwriters, amongst them Nick Cave, Tina Arena and Kylie Minogue, is testament to Melbourne’s longstanding musical history.

As well as cocktail bars, craft breweries and late-night drinking venues, rooftop bars are popular when the weather is fair and a multitude can be found scattered throughout the inner-city.

QT Rooftop is a glamorous watering hole in the heart of the city’s CBD, where stylistas, media types and trendsetters quench their thirst whilst taking in the heart and soul of Melbourne from above. www.qthotelsandresorts.com For a sophisticated after-hours night cap, sink into a comfy Chesterfield and enjoy a rare single malt, cognac or port in a distinctly civilised European setting at The Melbourne Supper Club. www.melbournesupperclub.com.au GIVEN THE PLETHORA OF HAPPENING venues and the seemingly unending array of cafés, bars, clubs, art spaces, exhibitions and restaurants, Melbourne is a city where it is virtually impossible to be bored, with a new experience literally just around every corner.

The city’s ever-present creativity is almost tangible, bursting to the surface of the everyday in urban art and café culture, expressed in the tens of thousands who throng excitedly to gallery openings and first nights, and even extending to the buskers playing to appreciative crowds.

More than living up to its moniker of Australia’s cultural capital, Melbourne’s iconic laneways, eclectic nightlife, tantalising food and wine and dynamic arts scene make visiting the city a must for any seasoned cultured traveller.

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I N I S S U E 3 8 , T H E C U LT U R E D T R AV E L L E R V I S I T S R E S T A U R A N T S I N I STA N B U L , L O N D O N A N D T H E P O L I S H C A P I T A L O F WA R S AW

ISOKYO ➤ I S TA N B U L , T U R K E Y

THE LALEE ➤ LONDON, UNITED KINGDOM

WA R S AW ’ S FOOD SCENE ➤ POLAND Isokyo, Istanbul, Turkey

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R E VIEW N I C H O L A S C H R I S O ST O M O U R E V I E W S A S T A N D O U T PA N - A S I A N

R E S T A U R A N T I N T U R K E Y ’ S L A R G E S T C I T Y, W H E R E T H E F I N E F O O D S H A R E S C E N T R E S TA G E W I T H A F U N KY M U S I C A L S O U N D T R A C K

ISOKYO ➤ I S T A N B U L , TURKEY

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BOASTING A RICH GASTRONOMIC heritage, it is Istanbul’s massive population hailing from all over Turkey and beyond, many of whom arrived in the city with their own food dishes, recipes and cuisines, which has translated into such an energetic, creative and constantly evolving dining scene in Turkey’s largest city.

A constantly bubbling melting pot of more than 15 million people straddling

Europe and Asia, split in two by the Bosphorus Strait which connects the Black and Marmara seas, it is perhaps unsurprising that one can find pretty much every type of cuisine in Istanbul.

THANKS TO HISTORICALLY being at the centre of numerous ancient trade routes linking China to the West, Istanbul has always seen plenty of spices passing through its city walls, all making

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Edamame

their way west, most having originated in in Xi’an. And while the main spice routes thrived across the oceans, the overland route of the Silk Road still saw plenty of Asian flavours end-up in Istanbul. Even today, Istanbul’s spice market is the second largest covered bazaar in Turkey and quite possibly the biggest spice trade centre in the world. And as eclectic as its culture, Istanbul boasts one of the widest varieties of places to eat on the planet, ranging from Turkish street food to American-style barbecue and quite literally everything in between.

SINCE CELEBRITY CHEF Nobuyuki “Nobu” Matsuhisa fused traditional Japanese dishes with Peruvian ingredients to create an innovative new style of fusion cuisine, generations of chefs have been pushing Japanese food in unexpected

directions, some of them successful and some of them less so. With their fresh, free and easy interpretations, their restaurants, scattered around the world, are constantly challenging longheld ideas about what Japanese cuisine actually means. In Istanbul, this translates into Japanese restaurants that range from the best avoided to the very good. Thankfully Isokyo is one of the latter.

LOCATED ON THE FIRST FLOOR of glitzy Raffles hotel at the chic Zorlu Center in the Beşiktaş district of Istanbul, Isokyo was designed from the outset to be a social dining destination, taking guests’ tastebuds on a culinary journey while entertaining their ears with funky sounds. This may sound easy to achieve, but you’d be surprised how many restaurants get the music so wrong.

ITS NAME REPRESENTING A gastronomic journey stretching from Istanbul to Tokyo, Isokyo serves a wide-ranging Pan-Asian menu with an innovative Turkish twist, encompassing a variety of dishes from different nations and cultures hailing from the Asian continent, and blending flavours of the orient with the West’s contemporary cooking techniques.

This allows diners to expand their culinary horizons beyond the norm and sample foods that are perhaps unusual to them.

The intense umami flavours of Japan.

Thailand’s elegant balance of the sweet and the spicy. Korea’s pickled and fermented delicacies, and age-old Chinese recipes including spicy Sichuan dishes. All of these and more are showcased at Isokyo in a vast range of dishes that literally offers something delicious for everyone, even those with an inexperienced palate when it comes to Asian fare.

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WHEN THE CULTURED TRAVELLER arrives at Isokyo at 8pm on a Thursday evening, the main dining room is already more than half-full, the DJ is playing laidback tunes and the atmosphere is restrained but palpable, conceivably in anticipation of the food to come. Always up for a pre-dinner cocktail, we decide to kick-off the proceedings in Istanbul’s contemporary incarnation of Raffles Singapore’s iconic Long Bar, which adjoins Isokyo.

Pulling up a stool at the seductive bar – under a canopy of hundreds of crystal glass spinning tops in homage to Turkey’s famous whirling dervishes – we order Bosphorus Slings and the night is underway. A delicious concoction of Sipsmith gin, cherry liquor, pomegranate juice and homemade hibiscus grenadine, the cocktail skillfully combines the Raffles brand’s Asian origins with Turkish ingredients in a tall and tempting drink. Of course, one is never enough and two cocktails later we walk the shining, mirrored pathway from the Long Bar towards the restaurant.

ESPECIALLY SKILLED AT creating distinctive interiors which tell a story, Isokyo’s rooms were fashioned by Turkish interior designer Handan Öney to create a hip, elegant and inviting ambiance. 300-year-old Tibetan doors,

Oshi Sushi

emblazoned with tigers and dragons, mark the entrance. In the main dining areas, unconventional curvy banquettes make a central statement while gossamer curtaining breaks-up the room together greenery. Subtle Asian accents abound and the walls are hung with a variety of post-modern artworks, many with a spiritual quality. Standout are a trio of original pieces by celebrated Turkish artist Beril Ateş, which harmonise with Isokyo’s Asian and aquatic sensibilities. The combined effect is a refined yet fun place to enjoy the fine fare produced by Raffles Istanbul’s executive chef, Clinton Cooper and his team.

New Zealand born, Cooper reputedly possesses an encyclopedic knowledge of Asian cuisines and his colourful career has seen him cooking in UAE, China, Thailand and India, thus making his experience somewhat perfect for a Pan-Asian restaurant. Something of a showcase of the wide variety of Asian flavours pivotal to Cooper’s life for decades, we opt for the degustation menu and head to the hotel’s Champagne Room where we are to feast in decadence and privacy seated at a marble high-top.

THE FIRST OF 10 COURSES IS A simple bowl of Edamame beans lifted by Lapsang Souchang tea and smoked salt, served with a glass of perfectly chilled

Bao Bun Sliders

Champagne Room

Taittinger. The beans are followed by delicious parcels of Yellow Fin Tuna tartare and avocado purée, sandwiched between crisp, squid ink brioche toast and topped with distinct Asian-style Tobiko caviar from Japan.

A salad of spinach, tofu and avocado with a sesame dressing is a little underwhelming, but a small bowl of Shiro miso broth, emulsified with foie gras, pleasingly tastes sweet and earthy.

Cumin spiced lamb rib, slow-cooked

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TA S T E & S I P REVIEW AUDIBLY FUELING THE MEAL throughout is a fantastic, toe-tapping soundtrack of vocal house and retro pop, seamlessly mixed by the restaurant’s resident DJ. Accompanying the food perfectly, this attention to musical detail lifts the meal and makes eating at Isokyo much more than a mere dining experience.

A HIGH-END COCKTAIL BAR, decadent champagne room and atmospheric restaurant rolled into one, married with superb music, delectable cocktails and excellent food hailing from multiple Asian countries, Isokyo is a spirited, stand-out dining option in a city of multitudinous food possibilities.

IS O K YO FOOD ATMOSPHERE EXECUTIVE CHEF: Clinton Cooper ADDRESS: Raffles Istanbul, Zorlu Center, Koru Sokak, Istanbul, Turkey TELEPHONE: +90 (212) 924 02 44 EMAIL: reservations@isokyo.com WEBSITE: www.isokyo.com CUISINE: Pan-Asian OPENING HOURS: Tuesday - Sunday 17:00 - 23:00 DINNER PRICE: Bao bun sliders TRY 145; Asian quinoa salad TRY 135; Oshi Sushi TRY 140; Coconut pannacotta TRY 95 IDEAL MEAL: Degustation menu TRY 895

for 18 hours and served with miso and chargrilled eggplant babaganoush in small homemade tacos, is absolutely divine, the lamb meltingly tender.

A plate of vegetable spring rolls served with a spicy umeboshi mayonnaise is followed by a presentation dish of Oshi Sushi which is theatrically accompanied by dry ice, a snowy haze cascading over the table. The Oshi is superb, topped with crispy tempura prawns which were freshly fished from Iskenderun on the

Mediterranean coast of Turkey.

Dumplings of grain fed beef and spring onion, served with a spicy soy dipping sauce, are authentic mouthfuls of Chinese delight. And the final dish of the main courses – crisp, wild Aegean coast sea bass, served with wok fried vegetables and a Sichuan sauce – is a culinary triumph and a fitting end to a magnificent meal, throughout which a crisp Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc is liberally poured.

RESERVATIONS: Essential WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes CHILDREN: Aged 12 and over welcome.

No kids menu CREDIT CARDS: All major PARKING: Valet TRY 90. Car park TRY 50 TCT REVIEWER: Nicholas Chrisostomou for dinner Star ratings out of five reflect the reviewer’s feedback about the food and service and, separately, the atmosphere in the dining room

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INSPIRED BY THE VICTORIAN DOYENNE OF LONDON SOCIETY AND HOUSED WITHIN THE V E RY B U I L D I N G W H E R E S H E L I V E D , N I C H O LAS C H R I S O STOMO U V I S I T S L I L L I E L A N GT RY ’ S N E W

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KINGDOM RESTAURANTS in-and-around London’s most upscale shopping avenue of Sloane Street cater to everything from low-budget tourists to some of the world’s most wealthy and everyone in between, including trust fund kids, fashionistas, models and seasoned globetrotters. So pitching a new food and beverage venue in the Royal Borough of Kensington & Chelsea is not the easiest thing to get right, which is perhaps apparent by the number of bars and restaurants which repeatedly launch and fold.

Being one of London’s most prosperous neighbourhoods, it is, of course, home to a variety of upmarket gastronomic staples, not least Bibendum and Daphne’s, plus a plethora of Michelin-starred establishments. But until recently, Sloane Street appeared to lack a relaxed and refined all-daydining establishment that fulfilled all of the discerning neighbourhood’s culinary needs.

The Belmond Cadogan

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OPENING JUST A FEW MONTHS ago and set within Belmond’s gorgeous Cadogan hotel in the heart of Chelsea, The LaLee is a new all-day café, bar and restaurant with a distinctly neighbourhood feel and a simply wonderful backstory. Inspired by and paying homage to one of The Cadogan’s

NEW

most legendary past residents – actress and professional socialite Lillie Langtry – The LaLee takes guests on a culinary journey to Europe’s grand cities with classic dishes finished tableside, playful cocktails taking centre stage and a theatrical wine list featuring a number of rare vintages served by the glass,

all presented in comfortable yet chic surroundings which incorporate one of Langtry’s original rooms.

DESIGNED BY LITTLE-KNOWN architect H.B. Brace in the late 1800s in the Victorian Queen Anne architectural style and constructed

by the wealthy Willett family, The Cadogan has played an integral role in the area’s social history since it first opened as a hotel at 75 Sloane Street in 1887. Eight years later, the hotel acquired and incorporated the gabled mansions immediately behind it.

Today, The Cadogan fills a block

COMER Manish Mehrotra

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bounded by Sloane Street, Pont Street, Pavilion Road and Pavilion Street and is an amalgamation of five individual adjoining buildings on the plot, all of which make a positive architectural contribution to the Hans Town Conservation Area. A particular feature of the conservation area is intricate gauged brickwork, which was traditionally carved by skilled brick masons and seen as an external sign of wealth and taste. Itself a grand redbrick building, of The Cadogan’s five buildings, one is a former house at 21 Pont Street where Lillie Langtry lived from 1890–1897 with eight servants.

BORN ON THE SEA SWEPT ISLAND of Jersey, Lillie Langtry moved to London aged 23 and soon became known for her effervescent personality.

Beautiful and fashionable, she wasn’t shy to capitalise on her popularity or use her looks to ascend the social ladder. More often than not the life of the party, she was also a keen traveler and charmed everyone she met as she swept through the grand cities of Europe with her group of bohemian friends and adoring devotees.

In London, Langtry’s natural charms made her the most fascinating woman of any group she entered. Employing her charms to beguile the capital’s elite, with whom she had frequent flirtations and affairs, amongst her suitors were the Prince of Wales (who later became King Edward VII) as well as the Earl of Shrewsbury and Prince Louis of Battenberg.

Langtry’s close friendship with Oscar Wilde led her to become an actress and subsequently found her own acting troupe. As she toured, while critics were often less than kind, Langtry was enormously popular with audiences and was in such demand that she often crossed the Atlantic to appear in plays.

LIVING AT 21 PONT STREET before the house was absorbed into The Cadogan, Langtry sold her home to the hotel’s owners on the understanding that she could keep her bedroom, entertain guests and eat free of charge in the hotel’s restaurant. Langtry

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Augbergine Parmigiana

continued living at The Cadogan, in her original bedroom, until 1897.

NEEDLESS TO SAY, THE RICH storied history of The Cadogan and the life and times of colourful Langtry are now inextricably intertwined forever. Today, the original staircase and mosaic floor which led to Langtry’s lodgings remain, acting as a private entrance for hotel guests. And the dining room where Langtry ate, entertained and hosted legendary parties is today part of The LaLee’s restaurant.

AS A HOME-AWAY-FROM-HOME for international travellers and a meeting place for the refined residents of the Royal Borough, the modernday Belmond Cadogan strives to echo

Langtry’s rip-roaring spirit while the hotel’s culinary legacy is continued by its well-travelled executive chef, Chris Hill, who himself boasts a rich and diverse culinary background.

Curated by Hill, The LaLee’s all-day every-day menu pays homage to the cuisine that fuelled Langtry’s epic travels and features a range of familiar and much-loved European dishes, all lovingly crafted making the best use of the freshest produce and finest ingredients sourced from across the British Isles. Dishes range from classic schnitzels and an exceptionally good beef tartare to Cornish lamb rump served with artichokes and a pepper sauce. To finish, an enticing array of delectable desserts run the gamut from British cheeses courtesy of Neal’s Yard to a traditional apple tart tatin

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designed for two to share. The service is warm, efficient and personal and the multiple sommeliers are informative and helpful.

A WHIMSICAL COCKTAIL LIST, perhaps as bubbly as Langtry was herself, includes a childhood-inspired modern clarified milk Jersey Punch, made with Black Cow vodka and raspberry jam, and Cobalt & Tonic fashioned from Ellis Scottish Gin No.3 Butterfly Pea and elderflower tonic.

Shimmering somewhat with tones of Langtry’s favourite colour purple, the latter is the perfect light-hearted beverage to launch a night of fine fare and animated chit-chat.

UPON LANGTRY’S PASSING IN 1929, The Guardian newspaper wrote, “She danced with the vitality of a young woman when she was seventy.”

Some of Langtry’s exuberance and vitality undoubtedly lives on in the stylish and upbeat LaLee, making it the perfect Chelsea retreat for a coffee, cocktail, lunch or the full enchilada, or perhaps even a wild post-theatre bash which continues in one of the hotel’s gorgeously decadent suites upstairs. ➤ www.thelalee.co.uk

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FOOD SCENE

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S U F F I C I E N T LY C R E A T I V E A N D V I B R A N T T O S TA N D A L O N G S I D E M O S T O T H E R E U R O P E A N C A P I TA L S , WA R S AW ’ S C U L I N A RY S C E N E I S PROGRESSIVE AND HAPPENING. H A V I N G S W I F T LY B O U N C E D B A C K FROM LOCKDOWN, JOE MORTIMER A N D N I C H O L A S C H R I S O ST O M O U INVESTIGATE ONE OF THE CONTINENT’S TWINKLING F O O D S TA R S .

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WARSAW HAS UNDERGONE a food revolution in the last 20 years. Young chefs who cut their teeth in the kitchens of foreign capitals during the noughties have returned to their homeland with new skills and bags of ideas, and so the city is now brimming with innovative restaurants. The intent is clear: to breathe new life into traditional Polish cuisine with contemporary concepts that capture the essence of Poland’s culinary heritage.

Poland’s gastronomic repertoire is characterised by its rustic dishes and hearty stews, fresh seafood from the Baltic and savoury dumplings stuffed with a smorgasbord of wild game and foraged ingredients. Today, Warsaw’s chefs are deconstructing and rethinking those traditional recipes for a new generation of curious diners.

At the same time, savvy chefs and restaurateurs are tapping into other elements of Poland’s culinary history: products like Polish potato vodka, homemade ferments, cured meats and Poland-made farmed caviar are championed in bistros and restaurants across the city, 13 of which have been recognised in the Michelin Guide.

And don’t leave without sampling a few Polish wines: cool climate grapes you’d expect to find in Germany and Austria like Riesling, Zweigelt and Pinot Noir are finding a foothold in the vineyards of Southern Poland, and indigenous grape varieties are well worth a taste for adventurous oenophiles.

JOE MORTIMER

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BE LV E D E RE ONE OF THE MOST glamorous places to dine in Warsaw, having been graced by everyone from Barack Obama and Jacques Chirac to Claudia Schiffer and Mick Jagger, Belvedere is set within a 150-year-old cast iron and glass palm house in Royal Lazienki Park.

Following a modish 2014 renovation courtesy of National Opera stage designer Boris Kudlička, Belvedere’s dining spaces inside the New Orangery are a moody and dramatic affair.

A carefully curated mix of modern, elegant furnishings, discreetly placed artworks, theatrical lighting and lush, tropical greenery surround diners. Together, these elements create a magical and opulent atmosphere, especially in tandem with the lamp-lit park beyond the soaring windows.

A culinary reference point in Warsaw, Belvedere’s topnotch contemporary Polish fare is prepared by chef Tomasz Lagowski. Reinvented classics with a modern twist skillfully allow high-quality meats, poultry and fish to shine, often garnished by refined additions such as Polish caviar and local truffles. An exceptionally good encyclopedic wine list accompanies the fine food.

NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU www.belvedere.com.pl

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O PAS LY TOM LOCATED IN THE FORMER bookshop of the State Publishing Institute, five minutes’ walk from Pilsudski Square in the city centre, at Opasly Tom, chef Konrad Kowalski serves moreish modern takes on Polish cuisine boasting complex flavours yet unfussy presentation. Easily one of the best places to eat in Warsaw, Opasly Tom is spread over two floors which have been designed with great attention to detail and complement the dining experience perfectly. All relaxing coral, sage, honey and ink blue hues, the restaurant’s street-level dining room strikes a visually pleasing balance between designed, cool and comfortable. Punctuated by terrazzo floors, corrugated steel walls upholstered in velvet, poplar burl detailing and Art Deco accents, the cosseting room

is hung with beautiful bespoke lamps of stacks of glass spheres.

Food wise, the smoked goat›s cheese tartelette with rhubarb and yoghurt, served with a delectable yet simple parsley mayonnaise, is a delicate yet flavourful starter that showcases the chef’s talent for skillfully combining a few ingredients

to create utterly delicious fare.

Similarly, the nettle dumplings drizzled with a homemade nettle pesto are a triumphant and unpretentious contemporary take on a Polish culinary classic. Kickback, relax and don’t rush a meal at Opasly Tom, for the food is just too good not to savour every delicious mouthful.

NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU www.kregliccy.eu/opaslytom

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Bite into

WARSAW www.Go2warsaw.pl

The capital of Poland connects tradition with modernity. It is a ever-evolving melting pot of cultures, flavors and ideas.

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BEZ GWIAZ D E K YOU CAN LEARN JUST AS much about a country and its people through food than you can in a museum or guidebook.

That is certainly the case at Bez Gwiazdek, an unpretentious little bistro that takes diners on a culinary journey through Poland via a revolving regional menu that changes every couple of months.

The tasting menu is a wonder: a collection of clever dishes that combine traditional ingredients and recipes with modern techniques and presentation to create contemporary plates that are as aesthetically pleasing as they are delicious.

We’re teased by a baked potato morsel with parsley sauce, topped with a sprinkling of tangy wild garlic caper pips and crunchy buckwheat as we sip on a delightful glass of Polish

sparkling Riesling, followed by goat’s cheese cheesecake with leek chutney and earthy rape seed oil, balanced nicely with an off-dry Riesling from the same producer (Winnica Marcinowice).

Every wine pairing is excellent. Potato balls in fermented cabbage broth and beef lardons are transformed into rich little mouthfuls with an oaked German Pinot Gris, and the flavours of Polish caviar are complemented with a Bordeaux-

style South African SauvignonSemillon blend.

I have never visited the Swietokrzyskie (Holy Cross) province of south-central Poland that inspired the dishes, but if I did, I feel like I would be overwhelmed by a sense of nostalgia as I tuck into one of the desserts: fermented blueberries with ewe’s milk ice cream sprinkled with shaved juniper — an intoxicating blend of rustic flavours.

The dining room itself is small and unremarkable, but if that puts you off, you’re missing the point. Bez Gwiazdek means “no stars” in Polish, an intentionally ironic comment from a restaurant that stands out as an unforgettable culinary and cultural experience: the food is exceptional, the wine divine and the team, enlightening.

JOE MORTIMER www.bezgwiazdek.eu

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Warszawska

Szóstka

SZÓ STKA AS IS OFTEN THE CASE, THE most surprising dining experiences are often preceded with the least fanfare. Located on the top floor of Hotel Warszawa and occupying an impressive, modern conservatory-like structure with a curved glass ceiling and a large open kitchen, Szóstka is the hotel’s premium offering and has garnered much praise for its chef, Dariusz Baraǹs-

ki, a graduate of Le Cordon Bleu cooking school with more than two decades’ experience. And quite rightly so, for the unpretentious and exquisitely executed vegetable-focused dishes which come out of Baraǹski’s kitchen are standout, elevating the simple qualities of vegetables. Szóstka’s short,

K IE LIS ZKI N A .

P RÓ Z N E J IT’S A YOUNG AND ARTISTIC crowd when we visit on a Tuesday night, framed by industrial style wine racks and graphic illustrations in a space that feels more like Shoreditch than central Warsaw. Here, a few minutes’ walk from Zacheta Gallery, wine takes centre stage. The team behind .

Kieliszki na Próz nej has a mission to find a balance between what’s on the plate and what’s in the glass and with 250 wines on offer and a selection of small plates inspired by traditional Polish fare, there’s plenty to tempt.

The steak tartare is made with melt-in-the-mouth tenderloin topped with a perfect little egg yolk and a light rice-cracker crisp, and delicious duck hearts are encased in a crispy crumb accompanied with zingy jalapeño

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mayo. A light, red-fruit-forward Valpolicella recommended as an accompaniment is a triumph: brave enough to stand up to

seasonal à la carte menu is based upon the availability of quality ingredients from trusted suppliers, so you can be sure that what you’re eating is made from the finest local produce. Not that this isn’t evident in the food - it is. The fried potatoes with black garlic are incredible. And you will have never tasted tomatoes like the carefully curated selection served as a starter at Szóstka. Mains equally impress.

the umami flavours of beef and the salty duck hearts and light enough not to drown out an elegant sea trout fillet, served under a canopy of chicory leaves and sea buckthorn with pistachio crumb.

A young zesty Riesling accompanies the first main: a fillet of Skrei cod in butter and crayfish sauce with sweet rhubarb morsels, but I am distracted by the chiller-cabinet of prime beef rib in the corner of the room, dry-aged in Poland for 28 days before finding its way onto the grill. Perfectly tender, the 300 grams of rib-eye is cooked over wood chips, lending it a smoky flavour that stands up beautifully next to a young Rioja in the prime of its life.

The decadence of the meal reaches its zenith at dessert: a Valrhona Guanaja Grand Cru chocolate mousse with olive oil,

WARSZAWSKA Meanwhile in the bowels of the same hotel, set within a mammoth, modern bunker-like space, Baraǹski’s other charge – Warszawska – is a more casual restaurant. Also based on the availability of the freshest ingredients, Warszawska is all about sharing everything from small plates of mushroom pâté, classic beef tartare, artichoke and spinach salad and suchlike – which diners mix and match to create their ideal meal – to a selection of meats which are cured onsite in the restaurant’s own smoking room.

Main dishes run the gamut of cabbage stuffed with veal and duck to a traditional pork schnitzel.

The service is supremely friendly and the wines are priced for easy drinking, making Warszawska popular for social gatherings.

NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU www.warszawa.hotel.com.pl

orange and salt, accompanied by a glass of Taylors LBV port poured from an Imperial sized bottle — an impressive climax to a delicious performance.

JOE MORTIMER www.kieliszkinaproznej.pl

EPOKA PERHAPS THE EPITOME of the Warsaw’s widespread drive to reinvent Polish cuisine comes courtesy of Epoka, located within grand Raffles hotel on the Royal Route, a stone’s throw from the Polish National Opera House, from whence the restaurant’s interior designer hails.

Fashioned by Slovak set designer Boris Kudlička, who was responsible for the theatrical interior of the restaurant, in collaboration with architects WWAA, and helmed by much lauded chef Marcin Przybysz who won the third edition of Poland’s Top Chef program, to dine at Epoka is to take a culinary journey through the historic portals of Polish gastronomy in plush and decadent surroundings.

Lovingly prepared tasting menus of 15 or 20 elements and small dishes, known as “recipes” and served as exquisite consecutive courses, each

illustrate a particular era in Polish culinary history based upon a cookbook of the time.

Dish upon dish of flawless food is served by a bevy of incredibly well-trained and affable waiting staff for whom perfection is key.

And menus are paired with fine wines carefully matched by knowledgeable and well-travelled sommeliers. The result is a worldclass culinary experience like no other in the Polish capital, the execution of which, from start-tofinish, simply cannot be faulted.

Indeed, despite the lofty price tag, many of those who dine at Epoka are regulars, with their own napkin rings displayed on ornate hooks close to the restaurant’s dramatic entrance, showing that Poles really know their food, appreciate fine dining and don’t mind paying top dollar for the best.

NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU https://epoka.restaurant

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FA S C I N A T I N G C U LT U R A L E V E N T S AND OUTSTANDING FESTIVALS HAPPENING AROUND THE WORLD IN THE COMING MONTHS

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IMAGE: © VLADIMIR VASILEV FOR LA SAMARITAINE

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N I C H O L A S C H R I S O ST O M O U

VISTS HISTORIC 19TH C E N T U R Y PA R I S I A N D E PA R T M E N T S T O R E L A S A M A R I TA I N E , W H I C H

MADE A GLAMOUROUS COMEBACK IN 2021 A F T E R A M A S S I V E LV M H MAKEOVER

IMAGE: PIERRE-OLIVIER DESCHAMPS FOR LA SAMARITAINE

F

OUNDED IN 1869 BY Théodore-Ernest Cognacq – a former street hawker, who sold ties under the second arch of the PontNeuf – it is perhaps hard to fathom, looking at the vast, grand department store today, that the Samaritaine brand started life in a small, sub-let former café on the corner of Rue du Pont-Neuf and Rue de la Monnaie.

NAMED AFTER AN OLD WATER PUMP station close-by which was demolished in 1813, that sported a statue of a samaritan woman pouring water for Christ, Cognacq drew inspiration from Aristide Baucicaut and applied the same principles to his shop, which he named La Samaritaine. Prices were lower and clearly labelled, everyone was allowed in and shoppers had the option of trying-on clothes before buying. Small business owners sold their wares in Cognacq’s shop and his revolutionary marketing techniques attracted crowds.

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In 1871, Cognacq obtained a proper lease on the converted café and took on two members of staff.

The following year, he married Marie-Louise Jaÿ, who was a salesgirl in the dressmaking department of Bon Marché at the time. The Cognacqs worked hard, every Franc was re-invested and before long the couple succeeded in buying the property.

A clever and ambitious businessman, Cognacq steadily acquired neighbouring buildings and soon enough, entire blocks were reworked to make space for his growing empire.

Not only shaking up the traditional distribution system at the time, Cognacq also asked leading Belgian architect Frantz Jourdain – who was a pioneer of Art Nouveau and ironframe architecture in France – to redesign the interiors of La Samaritaine, as well as do some work on the Cognacqs’ home.

IN 1905, THE COUPLE TASKED JOURDAIN with the design of a new, second La Samaritaine building. Inaugurated in 1910 and boldly embodying the Art Nouveau style with its visible metal structure, twin cupolas and elaborate façade adorned with enamelled igneous rock panels, sandstone and mosaic detailing, the vast new building was a masterpiece of Parisian style and La Samaritaine became known as the Grands Magasins de La Samaritaine.

A beautiful palace of retail, outwardly La Samaritaine was organised and managed as a department store while it was inwardly arranged as a collection of individually owned concession-like stores, each managed by a petit patron who operated autonomously but in harmony with others.

OVER TIME, THE COGNACQS’ SUCCESS from such humble beginnings fuelled a passion for philanthropy. Keen to give back, in 1916 the Cognacq-Jaÿ Foundation was born, which reached out to orphans, children, the sick, the retired and the homeless. The foundation survives today. www.cognacq-jay.fr/la-fondation The Cognacqs were also avid art collectors and their incredible collection can still be seen at the Musée Cognacq-Jay in Paris. www.museecognacqjay.paris.fr AFTER LA SAMARITAINE’S SALES EXCEEDED one billion Francs in 1925, in partnership with celebrated French architect Henri Sauvage, Jourdain extended the 1910 building outwards towards the river in the mid-late 1920s.

Since urban planning regulations at the time obliged the architects to hide Jourdain’s original Eiffelesque metal structure beneath a stone façade, the grand, new tiered extension built on the banks of the Seine was designed in the Art Déco style.

Sadly, La Samaritaine’s visionary founder died before the new building was completed and Cognacq’s nephew Gabriel succeeded him.

But once the new Art Déco building opened in the early 1930s, La Samaritaine occupied four buildings between the river and the Rue de Rivoli and the new Pont-Neuf building was designated a historical monument in Paris.

NOW PARIS’ LEADING department store, these were La Samaritaine’s glory days.

Parisians enjoyed grand parades and colourful festivals at the store throughout the year, La Samaritaine became known and loved as “La Samar” and celebrated poet André Suarès even wrote about it. At its peak during the interwar period, La Samaritaine employed almost 20,000 people.

AFTER WWII, GABRIEL COGNACQ WAS dismissed in light of his collaboration with the Nazis and the Renant family took over. They kept La Samaritaine popular but were nowhere near as experienced as its founder and steadily the store began to decline. Parts of its buildings were gradually closed off to the shopping public and visibly fell into disrepair. When La Samaritaine closed its doors in 2005, chunks of the store were deemed unsafe.

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SHORTLY AFTER THE TURN OF THE millenium, the luxury goods group LVMH acquired a controlling interest, from the founder’s grandnephews, in La Samaritaine’s four timeworn buildings, along with an adjoining apartment block which it agreed to renovate and sell back to the city as social housing. At the time, architecture enthusiast and LVMH chairman Bernard Arnault promised that the renovation of the quadrilateral building would be driven by innovation.

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ONCE LVMH OWED 100% OF LA SAMARITAINE in 2010, plans began in earnest to bring about an ambitious renovation as part of the neighbourhood’s transformation into a partly pedestrianised green heart of the capital, including designated space for art and galleries. Yet while the proposal for La Samaritaine’s restoration and rebirth skillfully fused the historic, old and new, it had some Parisians in uproar. After years of legal wrangling due to various court cases and campaigns, construction eventually commenced in 2015.

SHOPPING ICON

L A S A M A R I TA I N E

IMAGES: PIERRE-OLIVIER DESCHAMPS FOR LA SAMARITAINE

LOVINGLY BREATHING NEW LIFE INTO THE 19th and 20th century architecture, Pritzker Prizewinning Japanese architects SANAA carefully renovated the original Art Nouveau and Art Déco buildings and introduced glass-domed courtyards to throw natural light into the depths of the complex.

On the Rue de Rivoli side of the store, a dilapidated building which had no real historical interest was torn down and replaced by a controversial contemporary SANAA-designed undulating glassclad structure. Comprising 343 glazed panels each measuring 2.7 x 3.5 metres, the irregular glass waves lend an obvious contemporary element to La Samaritaine, weaving a dialogue between past and present while literally reflecting the Parisian surroundings.

The striking glass façade sports an entrance on the Rue de Rivoli that leads into sleek interiors which provide a playground for the latest streetwear brands.

This modern wing of La Samaritaine also hosts pop-ups curated by young, urban designers as well as several Insta-ready street art corners for snaphappy shoppers.

IN LA SAMARITAINE’S PONT-NEUF BUILDING, the emblematic Art Nouveau façade was carefully restored together with the exposed metal structure, decorative pillars, cast-iron signage, ceramic decorations and the crowning 1905 glass roof that had been covered to reduce light levels. Today, the glorious restored roof is fitted with electrochromic glass which tints according to the sun’s brightness.

In redesigning the interiors of the Art Nouveau building and preserving its historic architecture, Yabu Pushelberg has successfully bridged the past with the present by highlighting original details alongside the introduction of sympathetic contemporary design elements that work with the old in perfect harmony.

LVMH HIRED FOUR SEPARATE FIRMS to redesign different parts of the store, while specialist contractors were brought in to painstakingly renovate countless historical features, including the magnificent glass roof, the monumental staircase, the stunning 115-metre peacock fresco on the top floor and 674-metres of enamelled Volvic Lava panels on the façade.

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THE SHOWSTOPPING GRAND STAIRCASE that occupies the center of the Pont-Neuf building was completely renovated, with special attention paid to the Art Nouveau ceramic under the landings and 270 original oak steps, not to mention some 16,000 gold leaves. In terms of new materials, Yabu Pushelberg incorporated terrazzo floors to echo the shape of Parisian cobblestones.

EMPLOYING MORE 1,200 PEOPLE TO BRING La Samaritaine back to life, including master stonemasons, ceramists and sculptors obviously came at great cost, rumoured to be almost a billion Euro. But the result is undeniably impressive, warm and luxurious, from the basement to the top of the store’s cupolas and across every inch of the mixedused complex that today contains a nursery, 96 social housing units and 15,000 square metres of office space in additional to a dozen food and beverage outlets and a 400 square metre spa incorporating 7 treatment rooms and a private hammam. And for those seeking some rather special personal shopping, a super-chic and expansive apartment-like space is available for VIP shoppers to enjoy a personalised Samaritaine experience in complete privacy.

IMAGES: PIERRE-OLIVIER DESCHAMPS FOR LA SAMARITAINE

A REMARKABLE EXAMPLE OF SOCIAL ascension courtesy of the late 19th century department store boom, Ernest Cognacq and his wife Marie-Louise would surely be taken with their reborn shopping legend, which today magnificently marries the old and new in dazzling 21st century retail opulence at Samaritaine Paris Pont-Neuf. www.samaritaine.com

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summer 2022 fashion staples DUE TO VARYING STATES OF NATIONAL LOCKDOWN, HOLIDAYMAKERS ACROS S THE CONTINENT ARE PREPPING FOR A SUPREMELY CAREFREE SUMMER THIS YEAR, LIKELY PUNCTUATED BY WARDROBES WHICH ARE CONSIDERABLY MORE FUN AND LIGHT-HEARTED THAN WE’VE SEEN SINCE 2019. WHETHER HEADING TO THE SUN ON YOUR FIRST HOLIDAY IN FOREVER OR VACATIONING CLOSER TO HOME, JACKIE NEEDLEMAN ROUNDS-UP S OME SEAS ONAL FASHION MUST-HAVES THAT WILL WORK EQUALLY WELL IN THE GREEK ISLANDS OR ON THE CORNISH COAST.

VERTEX M-60 AQU AL I ON DIV E WATCH FOUNDED IN 1916 BY CLAUDE LYONS, Vertex has been resurrected by his great-grandson and there’s real integrity to the refreshed brand. Vertex’s first purpose-built dive watch, the AquaLion, is neatly linked to the

R ALP H LAUR EN AMALFI SWIM SHO R T S

past via various subtle design details but is very

A DAY ON THE BEACH

attracting too much attention, making it a classy

looks even better with

and versatile holiday timepiece.

the right swimwear. Defined by their relaxed silhouette, these lightweight Ralph Lauren Purple Label swim trunks are crafted from a fine Italian fabric that features a custom-developed paisley print. A genuine mother of pearl button and Ralph Lauren script embroidery add a sophisticated yet understated finish. This season’s colorway comes in shades of orange and green.

EUR 395

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much a 21st century watch driven by a Swiss Sellita SW360-1 movement the like of which is used by Tag and Hublot. The same design that makes the watch waterproof to any depth makes it robust enough to withstand anything you’ll throw at it and understated enough to wear anywhere without

GBP 2,850

https://vertex-watches.com

ST Y L I S H G L O B E T R OT T E R

D EVOT ION TW I NS EL LA MINI DRESS STYLISH AND SPIRITED, this gorgeous boho-style Ella tunic dress by Devotion Twins features delicate ruffled details and striking geometric embroidery. With a tunic v-neckline, relaxed tailoring, flared sleeve ends and a tiered skirt with ruffle trim, this versatile number can also be worn as a kaftan or paired with jeans making it perfect for pretty much any summery occasion.

From EUR 219.90 www.devotiontwins.com

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EMI L I O PU CCI BEACH BI KI NI TOP A FUNKY BIKINI TOP IS A practical beachwear essential that can take you into the evening with the addition of a cool sarong. This emerald green top by Emilio Pucci Beach in the iconic brand’s abstract printworks is underwired for support and made with plenty of stretch for comfort.

EUR 161

N OV E STA STAR MAST E R T R AIN E RS STEEPED IN HISTORY, Novesta opened its Slovakian factory in 1939 and continues to make shoes from the very same premises, making it one of the last purely European produced brands in existence today. Novesta is also one of the last sports shoe brands which still produces trainers using the original method on original machinery, so buying Novesta is like buying a piece of sneaker history! Every pair of Star Masters is handmade from the finest natural rubber and canvases and features Novesta’s trademark chunky sole.

EUR 65

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www.gonovesta.com

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www.lyst.com

ST Y L I S H G L O B E T R OT T E R

JW AND E RSON BU CKE T HAT ASYMMETRIC BUCKET HATS are something of a core accessory for British fashion label JW Anderson, founded by Jonathan Anderson. The stepped brim of this versatile bucket hat makes it look really fresh and modern and it’s paneled from a lightweight shell that’s printed with logos and trimmed with webbing ties.

GBP 160

www.jwanderson.com/gb

REI SS RU B E N L I NEN SHIRT CRAFTED FROM PURE lightweight linen with a subtle marl texture, this Ruban shirt by Reiss marries classic comfort with versatile styling. Staying comfortable throughout the day, it is the perfect choice for balmy summer evenings.

GBP 95

www.reiss.com

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SAN D QV I ST H E GE BAC K PAC K FOUNDED IN 2004 AS AN experimental design project by three childhood friends, Sandqvist has grown organically in response to a lack of reasonably priced, well-crafted, design-led functional bags. Practical, strong and minimal, this spacious Hege backpack is made from organic cotton canvas and high-quality leather and is happy in an airport, on the beach or at a business meeting making it a very versatile piece of summer luggage. And an inner compartment will look after your laptop on-the-go.

GBP 225

www.sandqvist.com

RAYBAN CL U BMASTER SU NGLASSES COOL, TIMELESS AND INSPIRED BY THE 1950S, RAY-BAN’S UNMISTAKABLE RB3016 Clubmaster sunnies are both distinctively retro and a stylish classic with vintage appeal. Wear them to the beach, by the pool or to sundowners on a yacht and everywhere in between.

From GBP 137

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www.ray-ban.com/uk

KNOCKOUT UNDIES & NIGHTWEAR www.british-boxers.com

LOEW E PAU LA’ S I BI ZA ANAGRAM TOTE AN ESSENTIAL BEACH BAG that also looks the part on dry land, this gorgeous tote from Loewe’s Paula’s Ibiza collection is crafted from iraca palm that’s been cultivated, harvested and sundried in Colombia, where it’s then woven by artisans from the fair trade company Corporación Oficio y Arte and embellished with an embossed leather patch.

GBP 625

AN C IE N T GR E EK IK AR IA SAN DALS SO LIGHT AND NATURAL THEY CAN BE worn with anything, these Ikaria sandals capture the heart of the Ancient Greek Sandals brand and are wonderfully enchanting thanks to their leather composition and signature ankle wings. Inspired by the enchanting tale that continues to fuel the label, whereby this sandal style was reputedly made for Hermes and imbued with magical powers, Ancient Greek Sandals manufactures locally to reduce its carbon footprint, uses low impact non-toxic dyes and regularly visits suppliers in its supply chain.

EUR 170

142

www.ancient-greek-sandals.com

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www.selfridges.com

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PA U L SMITH STRI P ED RAFFIA T RI L BY FEELING BOTH OLD-SCHOOL AND cool at the same time and made in Italy from lightweight, breathable straw, Paul Smith’s charming version of a classic trilby is woven with zigzags and the brand’s signature colourful stripes, and is finished with a tonal grosgrain inner headband for comfort.

GBP 145

www.paulsmith.com/uk

BE AC H R I OT X R E VO LVE PA L M SARONG A SARONG IS HANDS-DOWN THE PERFECT SEA-SIDE COVER-UP. Taking-up virtually no space in your luggage, a sarong is one of the most hardworking pieces in your vacation wardrobe, so it pays to have a few to choose from. Made in India, this statement pink and green palm-print sarong is channeling major island vibes, making it a quick and super-stylish cover-up whether lunching by the pool or having sunset cocktails.

GBP 68.04

www.revolve.com

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INDEX

L I T T L E B L AC K B O O K WEB ADDRESSES FOR EVERY DESTINATION AND VENUE MENTIONED I N I S S U E 3 8 O F T H E C U LT U R E D T R AV E L L E R M A G A Z I N E

A

ARTS CENTRE MELBOURNE ➤ www.artscentremelbourne. com.au ATTICA ➤ www.attica.com.au

B

BATALLA DEL VINO ➤ www.batalladelvino.com BELVEDERE ➤ www.belvedere.com.pl BEZ GWIAZDEK ➤ www.bezgwiazdek.eu BURNING MAN ➤ www.burningman.org

C

CHAROUPI ➤ www.xaroupi.gr CLOCHARD ➤ www.clochard.gr COMIC-CON INTERNATIONAL ➤ www.comic-con.org COMO LAUCALA ISLAND ➤ www.comohotels.com

D

DEPOT BOIJMANS VAN BEUNINGEN ➤ www.boijmans.nl DJ ALOK ➤ https://alokmusic.com DOMAINE FLORIAN ➤ www.domaineflorian.com DOWNTOWN L.A. PROPER ➤ www.properhotel.com

E

EDWIN WINE BAR AND CELLAR ➤ www.edwinwinebar.com.au EPOKA ➤ https://epoka.restaurant EUROMAST www.euromast.nl

F

FAIRMONT QUASAR ISTANBUL ➤ www.fairmont.com/istanbul/ FESTIVAL OF SAINT-DENIS ➤ www.festival-saint-denis.com FIESTA DE SAN FERMÍN ➤ www.sanfermin.com

G

GLASTONBURY ➤ www.glastonburyfestivals.co.uk

H

HOTEL ARISTIDE ➤ www.hotelaristide.com HOTEL FASANO TRANCOSO ➤ www.fasano.com.br HOTEL TERRESTRE ➤ https://terrestrehotel.com

MILLO ➤ www.millo.biz MONTREAL INTERNATIONAL JAZZ FESTIVAL ➤ www.montrealjazzfest.com MOMUS - THESSALONIKI ➤ www.momus.gr/en

SUPERMERCADO ➤ www.supermercadorotterdam.nl SZÓSTKA ➤ www.warszawa.hotel.com.pl

N

THE EXCELSIOR ➤ www.excelsiorhotel.gr THE LALEE ➤ www.thelalee.co.uk THE LUME ➤ https://thelume.com/global THE MELBOURNE SUPPER CLUB ➤ www.melbournesupperclub. com.au THE RESIDENCE MAURITIUS ➤ www.cenizaro.com THE REYKJAVIK EDITION ➤ www.editionhotels.com THE ST. REGIS LANGKAWI ➤ www.stregislangkawi.com TOMORROWLAND ➤ www.tomorrowland.com

NGV TRIENNIAL ➤ www.ngv.vic.gov.au

I

O

K

P

ISOKYO ➤ www.rafflesistanbul.com

KEITH HARING MURAL, MELBOURNE ➤ https://melbourneharingmural. com.au KIELISZKI NA PRÓŻNEJ ➤ www.kieliszkinaproznej.pl KIMPTON KITALAY SAMUI ➤ www.kimptonkitalaysamui.com KTIMA GEROVASSILIOU ➤ www.gerovassiliou.gr KUNSTHAL, ROTTERDAM ➤ www.kunsthal.nl

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LA COQUILLADE PROVENCE RESORT & SPA ➤ https://coquillade.fr LA TOMATINA ➤ www.latomatina.org

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MAINE LOBSTER FESTIVAL ➤ www.mainelobsterfestival.com MAKEDONIA PALACE ➤ https://makedoniapalace.com MAMALOUKA ➤ https://mamalouka.gr MAREA SEA SPIRIT ➤ https://mareaseaspirit.gr MARKTHAL ➤ www.markthal.nl MEADOWS IN THE MOUNTAINS ➤ www.meadowsinthemountains. com

OPASŁY TOM ➤ www.kregliccy.eu/opaslytom

PRIDE NEW YORK ➤ www.nycpride.org

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QT ROOFTOP ➤ www.qthotelsandresorts.com

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RAFFLES THE PALM DUBAI ➤ www.rafflesthepalmdubai.com RADISSON COLLECTION HOTEL, GRAN VÍA BILBAO ➤ www.radissonhotels.com RED BULL SOAPBOX RACE ➤ www.redbull.com/gb-en/events RED EMPEROR ➤ https://redemperor.com.au ROYAL BOTANIC GARDENS ➤ www.rbg.vic.gov.au

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SALONICA RESTAURANT ➤ https://makedoniapalace.com SAMARITAINE PARIS PONT-NEUF ➤ www.samaritaine.com SCIENCE GALLERY MELBOURNE ➤ https://melbourne. sciencegallery.com SIX SENSES BOTANIQUE ➤ www.sixsenses.com SÓNAR ➤ https://sonar.es/en/2022

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VERBIER FESTIVAL ➤ www.verbierfestival.com VOGATSIKOU 3 ➤ https://vogatsikou3.gr

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WARSZAWSKA ➤ www.warszawa.hotel.com.pl WHITE TOWER MUSEUM ➤ www.lpth.gr WITTE DE WITH CENTER FOR CONTEMPORARY ART ➤ www.wdw.nl WORM ➤ www.worm.org WUNDERBAR ➤ https://worm.org/spaces/ wunderbar

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XENODOCHEIO MILOS ➤ https://xenodocheiomilos.com

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ZOMERCARNAVAL ➤ www.zomercarnaval.org

T H E C U LT U R E D T R A V E L L E R

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T R AV E L T I P S F R O M T H E TO P

dj alok

BEST KNOWN FOR HIS HIT SINGLE

HEAR ME NOW, IT’S ALL ABOUT INF L I G H T C O M F O R T F O R B R A Z I L’ S M O S T FA M O U S D J A N D P R O D U C E R A LO K AC H K A R P E R E S P E T R I L LO , A S

H E T R AV E L S T H E W O R L D T O H E A D L I N E A T F E S T I VA L S A N D M E G A C LU B S COMFORT FIRST For me, the most important thing on a flight, both shortand long-haul, is my comfort, for if I’m not feeling my best after travelling then I won’t perform at my best. Quality earplugs are a must. It also goes without saying that sweatpants are the best in-flight travelwear. I have some Louis Vuitton hoodies that are the ultimate comfort and help me feel well-rested, but I also like a graphic print to make a look pop!

LUGGAGE I always travel

with RIMOWA luggage.

The stylish aluminium casing isn’t bulky and protects the equipment and personal pieces that I take whenever I’m on the road.

IN FLIGHT I go out of my way to drink a

lot of water in flight, especially Obrigado coconut water. When I’m not working on tracks, I try to unwind and have a beer to chill out and watch an action movie or do some gaming to take my mind off things whilst I’m in the air.

I really enjoy battle games and getting involved in fast-paced action. Free Fire is a favourite, not least because I am a character in the game, which was a super cool experience.

READING MATTER

I prefer to read magazines over books when travelling,

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JUNE - AUGUST 2022

especially Rolling Stone to keep up with the wider music scene, and GQ or Vogue to tap into my passions for global fashion and culture.

MUSIC I listen to a combination

of classic rock ‘n’ roll like The Rolling Stones and pop music by artists such as Dua Lipa and Ed Sheeran, both of whom I have been lucky enough to work with and inspire me greatly. I also enjoy listening to up-and-coming Brazilian producers who fly the flag for the South American music scene, like those signed to my record label, Controversia.

Everyone should check-out Bruno Be and my brother Bhaskar!

HYDR ATION I take a lot of flights,

so staying hydrated and looking after my skin are important to me. My wife Romana has an amazing skincare routine and has given me quite a few tips. I use La Roche Posay Thermal Water spray in-flight because it’s light. I sometimes switch to Uriage Thermal Water and ROC sunscreen just before landing.

And I always have a Paco Rabanne scent with me.

BODY CLOCK When I’m flying, even

domestically within Brazil, I like to rest to be at my best both mentally and physically. I don’t try to skip time zones or stay awake to catch-up, because that results in me feeling drained. I also make sure I eat something substantial when I arrive at my destination.

JET LAG Before the pandemic, I was so

used to travelling that jet lag rarely affected me and I would often have a lot more energy after a long-haul flight than I should have had. But since the world has re-opened, my body is definitely out of practice and I feel the effects of jet lag more. My go-to cure for jet lag is the gym. Because I spend a lot of time at night-time events or in a dark studio creating music, I need to regularly energise my mind and body in a gym, which also helps to break away from the harsh effects of a life on the road touring.

#kulm ho #kulm telstmori tz l #kulm ifestyle feelin g @kul mho t e l @kul mhot elst.m oritz

welcome to the alps‘ summer paradise The Kulm Hotel is one of Switzerland‘s undisputed icons of hospitality. Situated in St. Moritz in the heart of the Swiss Alps, it provides guests with an incomparable variety of cultural highlights, experiences of nature, wellness moments and culinary delights as well as a truly luxurious setting.

Kulm Hotel · 7500 St. Moritz

T +41 81 836 80 00 · info@kulm.com · www.kulm.com