Apparel Magazine // August 2014

$ 9.00

AUGUST 2014 VOL 47 NO 7

www.apparelmagazine.co.nz

Nick Von K: Jewellery That Rocks pg 20

16 24 26

04 14

NEWS

EUGÉNIE

COLOUR TRENDING APPAREL RADAR

STUDENT PROFILE apparelmagazine.co.nz

I1

FASHIONABLE

EDITOR’S letter WAYS to capture a customer’s attention has become increasingly difficult in the new digital age, with customers often bombarded with social media and online or direct email marketing campaigns. The ability to break through the clutter is something that brands are constantly seeking out. One marketing vehicle that has got the attention of brands is Snapchat, a photo messaging application developed by Stanford University students, Evan Spiegel and Jonathan May. Using this application, users can take photos, record videos, add text and drawings, and send them to a controlled list of recipients.

Known as “snaps”, users set a time limit for how long recipients can view the snaps for, after which they will disappear and be deleted from Snapchat’s servers. In May 2014, Snapchat disclosed that users were sending 700 million photos and videos per day and Snapchat Stories content was being viewed 500 million times per day.

Due to the snaps time limitations, it is almost like a lock on the consumer’s attention and the recipient is forced to stop and focus when they open it, something other social media channels cannot offer.

Brands like Victoria’s Secret, Nasty Gal, Rebecca Minkoff and NZ brand Sly Guild are now all using the app to complement their presence on other social platforms like Facebook and Twitter. The service looks to be gaining a lot

of momentum in the fashion world.

American brand Nasty Gal used the app during New York Fashion Week to take photos of points around the city where customers could go to get a $100 gift certificate. They also hired a social media intern via the app, by telling people to send snaps to be considered for the role.

Rebecca Minkoff sent out snaps of the brands spring looks moments before it hit the runway.

Don’t forget to sign up to our Apparel weekly newsletter via our website and like our page on Facebook to see all the updates as it happens from New Zealand Fashion Week 2014.

Have a great month!

Sarah

sarah@reviewmags.com

ON THE COVER: COLIN MATHURA-JEFFREE wearing accessories

by Nick Von K and apparel, TrashWear by Bay Rawlinson Photo by Caitlan Mitchell

READS

Fashion Portfolio: Design & Presentation

by Anna Kiper Both beautiful and practical, a book that is a complete guide to putting together a stunning fashion portfolio. From inspiration to the final collection this book covers the entire design project and includes snippets of professional sketch books and insights form established fashion designers.

contributors

Fashion Management JESSICA-BELLE GREER

CAITLAN MITCHELL

THOMAS FOWLER

KATIE SMITH

ANYA ANDERSON

CHRIS WILKINSON

CORINNE COLE

NORRIE MONTGOMERY

Sales & Editorial

Managing Director RedSeed Ltd Christchurch www.redseed.me

Editorial Assistant

Photograher

Partner at AJ Park corinne.blumsky@ ajpark.com Fashion Consultant

Managing Director of Strategists, First Retail Group www.firstretailgroup.com

Trend Analyst, EDITD www.editd.com/blog

by Annick Schramme, Francesca Rinaldi, Karinna Nobbs Don’t be dissuaded by the textbook title, this book is a bible. Taking into consideration the current economic climate and rapid change of the fashion industry this book provides invaluable international knowledge on how to compete with chain stores and luxury brands alike.

Photographer

Fashion Pattern Cutting: Line, Shape and Volume PUBLISHER EDITOR SALES & MARKETING SALES & EDITORIAL COORDINATOR ADVERTISING SALES SENIOR DESIGNER PHOTOGRAPHER

Peter Mitchell - peter@reviewmags.com Sarah Mitchell - sarah@reviewmags.com

EDITORIAL ASSISTANTS Nathalie Owen, Dearra Naidoo CIRCULATION/ADMIN Kieran Mitchell - kieran@reviewmags.com

Tania Walters - tania@reviewmags.com

ISSN 1171-2287

Jessica-Belle Greer - jessica@reviewmags.com

Sarah Mitchell - sarah@reviewmags.com Raymund Sarmiento - raymund@reviewmags.com Caitlan Mitchell - caitlan@reviewmags.com

2 I August 2014

Level 3, Suite 9, 20 Augustus Tce, Parnell, Auckland, PO Box 37 140, Parnell, Auckland Tel (09) 304 0142 Fax (09) 377 2794

NZ Apparel is published monthly under licence. Please direct all enquiries and correspondence to NZ Apparel. The opinions and material published in this edition of NZ Apparel are not necessarily those of the publishers unless specifically stated. All material appearing in NZ Apparel is copyright and may only be reproduced with the consent of the publisher. Copyright 2014 NZ Apparel Magazine.

by Zarida Zaman A creative pattern cutting book from experienced fashion designer Zarida Zaman that pushes the boundaries of experimentation on the mannequin stand this book is designed to boost draping confidence and design creativity.

Apparel 21 is fashionware.

ERP solutions for the fashion industry that improve your business performance.

• Planning/OTB • Manufacturing • Purchasing • Shipments • Wholesale • Retail • CRM • Replenishment • Point of Sale • Online Sales • Financials • Reporting and Analysis • Product Lifecycle Management

Phone: +61 3 8415 9300 Email: info@Apparel21.com www.Apparel21.com apparelmagazine.co.nz

I3

NEWS STOLEN GIRLFRIENDS CLUB NEW YORK POP UP

New Zealand brand Stolen Girlfriends Club has launched a sixweek pop-up concept store at New York City’s Gallery Ninety 8.

The brand’s new collection ‘Verbal Warning’ for both men and women is on showcase alongside a curated selection of the brand’s jewellery, eyewear, and limited edition pieces.

The concept store is part of the new Space Ninety 8, a unique retail concept located in Williamsburg, Brooklyn.

CHINA LEATHER INDUSTRY GROWTH

Since its launch in 1998 ACLE has shown 17 years of steady growth both in terms of the number of exhibitors (domestic and international) and more significantly in terms of buyers passing through the fair. The 2013 event was no exception with a record number of exhibitors – 1400+ - and more than 24,000 visitors. However, since last year, China’s leather industry has been facing fresh challenges as the government seeks to clean up the industry and protect the environment while promoting sustainable production practices. This has caused a shake-up in Northern China, especially in Wuji and Xinji in Hebei province, as polluting tanneries that have not complied with new environmental regulations have been closed.

Such actions sparked rumours of falling production and some sort of crises in the China leather industry. Authorities were imposing new regulations for the benefit of local communities and in order to promote safe, sustainable production resulting in larger leather production units operating within the law. With raw material and leather prices still close to record levels across the board and the import figure of US$1.02 billion that opportunities lay for the major international tanneries that exhibit at ACLE year in- and year-out. Rising prices and steady demand equal handsome profits and an improved bottom line for enterprising tanneries producing quality leather. This is a positive message for the leather industry as a whole from the CLIA (China Leather Industry Association) as reforms are implemented within China and recessionary pressures in developed economies recede after almost seven years as world stock markets continue to rise in anticipation of better times ahead.

FOUNDER SELLS STAKE IN LULULEMON

Chip Wilson, founder of Lululemon Athletica is to sell his stake in the Canadian sportswear brand to private equity firm Advent International for US$845 million. After sparking outrage over comments made about women’s bodies, Wilson stood down as the chairman in December. Wilson currently owns 27.7 per cent of the company’s outstanding shares, this will drop to 13.85 per cent once the sale agreement is complete. “Advent is a strong partner that knows Lululemon and our culture and will be an incredibly helpful addition to the board as we build an even stronger company,” said Wilson. “Lululemon is well positioned to successfully execute on its strategic goals, and I look forward to working alongside the entire board and management team as we focus on leveraging our core values of product and innovation to enhance value for all shareholders.”

4 I August 2014

NIKE ANNOUNCES AIR ZOOM ELITE 7

Nike has introduced the Nike Air Zoom Elite 7, the lightest version in the speedy Zoom Air running shoes’ seven-year history. Researchers found that elite and everyday athletes incorporate tempo runs into their training. In these fasterpaced workouts, runners push themselves at a pace closer to that of a race than a casual workout. Quickness and speed are crucial in these workout types. The new design is the lightest yet Air Zoom Elite, with a women’s size eight weighing under 230 grams.

Your businesses are as varied as our students . . .

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CALL Jacqui 09 309 5020 or visit www.nzfashiontech.ac.nz

apparelmagazine.co.nz

I5

NEWS DANNII MINOGUE X TARGET

In the latest ‘Designers for Target’ collaborations comes Danni Minogue who will launch her ‘Petites for Target’ range this month. Her designs come after a lifetime of altering clothes to fit her petite frame. Minogue has taken matters into her own hands by designing her own line of clothes. Prices in the Petite range start at AU$25 to AU$89.

Tailoring in the sleeves and hems are shorter than regular sizing, while pockets are placed to fit along with appropriately proportioned collars. After the Australian department store giant announced the partnership with Italian design house, Missoni, the launch with Minogue will be the largest designer collaboration to date for Target. The company has previously collaborated with designers such as Roberto Cavalli, Dita Von Teese and Stella McCartney.

UNIQLO SECOND SYDNEY STORE

Macquarie Centre in North Ryde, Sydney will soon house the second Uniqlo store.

A second Victorian store will also open later this year at Chadstone. The Macquarie Uniqlo will be 1514sqm. The centre is currently undergoing a $440 million redevelopment, which will feature five international fashion brands.

Set to house the full range of Uniqlo product including men’s, women’s, kids and babies collections. CEO of Uniqlo Australia, Shoichi Miyasaka, said that it is important to grow the brand in the Australian market. “From what we’ve seen so far, Australians have responded really well to our offering. We’re very excited to be bringing Uniqlo to two great new locations in Sydney, now adding the Macquarie Centre to the list,” said Miyasaka.

ILLAB OPENS IN AUCKLAND

The latest boutique shopping offering to hit Auckland is illab. Nestled in the growing area where Mt Eden Road meets Symonds Street, men’s and women’s brand illab brings athletic street wear to a zone popular to those in the know. Co-owners Seadon Baker and Matt Saunders identified the site as an opportunity to provide a focused brand experience for the illab customer. Garments aren’t presented in the typical retail style, instead they are placed inside a beautifully lit, sculptural pod inspired by the shapes and fragments of a meteorite – a motif frequently seen within ilabb branding.

“This is a place where the range concepts can be sampled the way the ilabb creative team and retail designers Pennant and Triumph, dreamt they could be. It’s an environment in which we are proud to exclusively stock our new product category 2025 alongside our regular drops such as Manufactured Heroes,” said Saunders. “ilabb is known for it’s strong shelf appeal within our 75 New Zealand and Australian retailers, but a flagship store in which our unique concept could be shared is an exciting development for us,” Baker adds. The focus on developing creative concepts that form the foundation of each range is ilabb’s point of difference within the street wear category.

TOMS HITS THAILAND

American shoe brand Toms has expanded into Thailand.

Partnering with Star Fashion Co, the first store debuted inside the new Central Embassy shopping mall in Bangkok. The 100sqm Bangkok store sells eyewear as well as its shoe offering.

International sales and marketing director for Toms, Hajime Birnbaum, said that taking the brand into Thailand, which he described as a very promising market, is part of the company’s strategy to grow the brand internationally.

In the meantime, Star Fashion Co will also bring another foreign brand into Thailand – American street wear brand Hurley, which will debut at Siam Square in Bangkok.

STOREPLAY GOES GLOBAL

storePlay, the world’s first app-based music subscription service for businesses, has announced its platform will now expand to international markets. This follows demand from many of its large Australian customers to take the app offshore to its international operations. The company has now successfully negotiated and secured international licensing with various record labels, expanding its existing Australian licenses.

Established in 2012 in Melbourne, Australia, storePlay was developed as a business app to meet the needs of retailers of all sizes, cafes and restaurants. These businesses are challenged on several fronts when it comes to playing in-store music, including; the ability to navigate the complicated process of accessing music that is licensed for business use; overcoming potential legal and reputational risk by complying with the regulatory frameworks governing music within commercial premises; and utilising modern technology such as iPhone, iPod or iPad, which is now in widespread use throughout the retail and hospitality sectors, yet ignored by the incumbent in-store music providers. The music available through storePlay is 100 per cent legal and includes all royalties, protecting its clients from the risks of playing or streaming unlicensed music in-store through platforms like CD, iTunes or Spotify.

the numbers . . .

SOCIAL MEDIA:

of consumers discover new brands/retailers on social media SOURCE: PwC’s Global Total Retail Survey, 2014.

6 I August 2014

of consumers research brands and follow their favourite brands/ retailers on social media of consumers brought products using social media

apparelmagazine.co.nz

I7

NEWS DESIGNERS JUDGED BY INDUSTRY EXPERTS

EXPANSION COMPLETE FOR DRESS-SMART

Another 1000sqm has been added and existing floorplan upgraded to discount retail outlet Dress-Smart in Auckland. Centre manager Gaylene Powell said that Kathmandu, Asics and Puma occupy the new areas and the work has been completed. Additional undercover parking has been added as well. “As the concept of outlet shopping took hold, the site has been enlarged and now includes a well-utilised tourist shuttle which collects shoppers from a number of city hotels and brings them to Dress-Smart several times a day,” Dress-Smart said. Opened in 1995, the outlet was only a quarter of the size it is today.

Brother Design Stars entrants are to be judged by some of New Zealand’s top fashion and craft designers. The inaugural Brother Design Stars competition will see Kiwi fashion designer Celine Rita, wearable art guru Fifi Colston and Brother marketing manager Emma Crossett joining the judging panel for the awards.

Bringing strong industry experience, Fifi Colston is one of the big names on the judging panel and has a personal interest in emerging fashion and craft stars. Registrations for Brother Design Stars have now climbed to over 200 entries and will close this month. Winners will be announced in October.

SABATINI HOME

SOCKS FOR THE SEASON

Sock It to Me is an American based designer and manufacturer of socks that are sold online and in 2000+ retailers around the globe. Sock It to Me is a fun, expressive and design-focused sock brand with over 50 styles for women in trendy, classic and sophisticated designs. The brand has just unveiled its STRETCH IT collection – a new line of Knee Highs specially designed to comfortably fit larger calves.

Sock It to Me is currently stocked in 100 stores nationwide.

GENERAL PRODUCTS ACQUIRES FABRIC BINDINGS

General Products, New Zealand’s largest BIAS binding manufacturer has acquired Fabric Bindings, manufacturers of clothing trimmings, BIAS bindings and trouser waist banding. Previous owner, Bill Dunster, has now retired and closed the Auckland offices at 41 Union Street. The merger will see the companies now based at General Products’ location at 2 Abbey Street, Newton, Auckland. The company will have an increased apparel focus as well as industrial and will acquire stock, machinery and staff. General Products distributes a range of trimmings; basic fabrics including a range of polypropylene non-woven spun bonded and will celebrate 50 years in the business next year. Fabric Bindings celebrated approximately 60 years of business this year.

Iconic knitwear brand, Sabatini has developed a homeware range that is uniquely designed and encompasses the Sabatini philosophy using an intricate fabric base with the finest yarns from around the globe, hand-cut and finished in New Zealand.

The collection will be sold across Australia and New Zealand in leading homeware boutiques such as Macleay on Manning and One Rundle. New designs will be delivered each month. Sabatini classic knit designs will feature in the collection with a generously bold and earthy colour palette. Beautiful trans-seasonal throws, colourful knit pillows and puffs, and overnight carry bags to match the décor. Extra fine Merino yarns and genuine leather trimming epitomise the Sabatini feeling of quality and elegance.

Developing a homeware range came as a natural evolution for the Sabatini family, explains managing director Tony Milich. “The sky is the limit when it comes to where we would like to take the Sabatini brand. With our in-house production and over half a century in the knitwear trade, developing a luxury knitwear homewares range was a no-brainer.” Creative director Margie Evans-Milich is extremely proud of the way the range came together. “It has exceeded all of my expectations and we cannot wait to unveil this collection to the public.”

theWINDOW

EVOLUTION

Hit: Reasonable flat rate shipping fee, great graphics for lipstick products, sale section, VIP sign-up.

Miss: Homepage slider does not fit on page, no filter for more specific product types.

8 I August 2014

MAXIMILLIA:

Hit: Easy to navigate, VIP sign up and Pre-order available to all.

Miss: Delivery cost if not in Australia, image heavy.

PITBULL MANSION:

Hit: Extensive collection of designers, regular sales, click through to flip turn magazine.

Miss: News section only updated once every few months, unattractive font.

Exceptional retail opportunity at

WESTGATE LEASING NOW! Opening October 2015 DNZ is building a new $160 million shopping centre at Westgate. Catering to a large and expanding catchment, Westgate is ideally positioned to capitalise on Auckland’s underserved North West. Westgate will house a comprehensive mix of local and international brands anchored by Farmers and Countdown. Opening October 2015, Westgate will provide shoppers with a world class retail experience right at the junction of two of our major motorways.

Ronan McGinley

DNZ Property Fund Limited

Leasing Manager DDI: +64 9 913 1156 Phone: +64 9 912 2690 Mobile: +64 22 344 1845 Fax: +64 9 912 2693 Email: ronan.mcginley@dnzproperty.com

Level 2, 80 Greys Avenue, Auckland 1010 PO Box 6320, Wellesley Street, Auckland 1141 New Zealand.

www.dnzwestgate.co.nz

NEWS

NIKE PRO BRA COLLECTION

Two years of research, 300 wear tests and 1800 hours of wash testing, Nike has launched the Nike Pro Bra collection – that allows women to get the right fit and the right support. The sports bra is at the heart of every female athlete’s workout.

Different physiques and different needs across a wide range of activities require a heightened focus on narrowly tailored personalisation. In this regard, fit and support are paramount.

“We have a saying here, ‘No bra, no workout, no run’,” said Julie Igarashi, vice president of global design for Nike Women’s Training. “The majority of women are wearing the wrongsized bra. This is something we needed to fix.” The Nike Pro Bra Collection features five bras designed for each athlete’s desired level of support. The centerpiece of the collection is the Nike Pro Rival Bra, which delivers the highest level of support and is offered in 25 sizes to help the female athlete find the right fit. In NZ, the collection also features the new Nike Pro Fierce Bra, as well as the updated Nike Pro Classic. Particular focus was placed on lingerie construction. In total, more than 600 hours of biomechanical testing were conducted, both at Loughborough University and in the Nike Explore Team Sport Research Lab.

ECO FASHION EXPOSED BUYER SHOWCASE A NZ Fashion Exposed event ran in the last week of July and was set up by founding director Denise Anglessy to provide a platform for designers who produce Ethical, Ecological and Up Cycled Fashion.

The buyer’s night was implemented this year to introduce the idea to New Zealand fashion retailers that the demand for eco fashion is on the increase and most of the garments on show are able to sit well in any fashion store. Collections on show ranged from casual street wear through to high end fashion pieces and all garments were presented by

models from the Panache modeling agency.

Wellington designer Dane Dagger was a crowd favourite with his edgy street wear entitled Stolen Champagne, which was inspired by a blend of 70s French Gallic style and 90s street wear. New designer, Amelia Boland’s items are designed and created with form being led by function. Every design aspect has a purpose, while visual proportion is paramount.

Hardwearing materials are selected for performance as much as their visual properties, giving the range an air of quality and longevity.

Keep your website stylish In our modern world, for your label to remain in vogue, your brand needs to be accessible 24/7. But, it’s more than just being online. Your website deserves the same attention to detail that you apply to your products.

Since the storefront is no longer the only door through which a customer can enter and exit your business, a website needs to be the hub of your digital strategy. You should constantly be updating and improving your website; not only keeping your product current, but tweaking the design too, like you would for each new collection.

Your website should not only help you to grow, reach out to your market, but also help you to grow by making business a little easier. A Zeald website can integrate with other cloud based systems such as, Xero for accounting, Unleashed Inventory Software, or Vend for point of sale.

If you would like to find out how you can improve your website, we can offer you a free, no obligation, website audit. Just call us or visit our website to book yours today.

Call us on

10 I August 2014

0508 932 748

Visit us at

www.zeald.com/apparel

MY BOYFRIENDS BACK ACQUIRES MASTERTON BOUTIQUE

My Boyfriends Back designer, Danielle Burkhart has recently purchased Hebe Designer Boutique. Hebe stands as the only designer boutique in Masterton, based in the quaint Kuripuni Village.

Previously, Hebe has been a large stockist of My Boyfriends Back since its original opening, making the choice to take over the store an astute and exciting decision. Stocking a variety of leading New Zealand and international brands, future plans include developing the in-store and online presence. Burkhart plans to curate a contemporary space with unique additions and accessories. The store looks to feature cube shelving with suspended lights.

NEWS BALL AGENCIES OFFER STRATEGIC SALE PROJECTION FOR BRANDS

Ball Agencies has been trading in New Zealand for 30 years for middle to up market fashion retail stores.

Rick Ball is the managing director with 16 employees working with him in their relatively new premises on 33c Falcon Street, Parnell. As a New Zealand based fashion importer, wholesaler and distributor Ball Agencies supply to 350 retailers including specialty boutiques, department stores and independent fashion multi stores from their 4 showrooms, warehouse and offices. Not only this, Ball Agencies markets and builds successful brands. Among their fashion brands they have a selection of quality jean brands including Black Orchid, Hailwood Jeans and of course NYDJ (Not Your Daughters Jeans). These brands and Lisette L, the only pants with Flaterie Fit, have been seen on the likes of Oprah and Taylor

Jan Hare for Lisette L, jan@jda.co.nz 021 307 006, 09 307 0071 Ext 5

Swift. Their other brands are Animale, Taravao, ADC, Georg Roth, Angels Never Die, B.yu, Didier Parakian, Harper, oneoneseven, and Eleonara Amadei. Rick and his wife, Josephine, also support Adrian Hailwood with his Hailwood brand as they believe in Adrian’s talent for fashion and graphic design. Ball Agencies can offer strategic sale projection for your collection next season. They work fast and can accommodate sale updates every couple of weeks, while the agent is selling on the road if needed. Ball Agencies continue to offer consistent quality and integrity to those they work with.

Jan Hare for Hailwood, jan@jda.co.nz 021 307 006, 09 307 0071 Ext 5

Jane Penny for Black Orchid jane@ballagencies.com, 09 303 3693 Ext 9 apparelmagazine.co.nz

I 11

BEHIND THE BUSINESS

CUSTOMER CENTRICITY AND YOUR BUSINESS

By Anya Anderson

Do you put your customers at the centre of everything you do?

Customer centricity is fast becoming an area that many see to be business critical. It’s something that affects every area of the business, from CEO’s to shelf stackers. Everybody is doing it, but what does it really mean? At a high level, being customer centric means putting the customer at the centre of everything you do.

Traditionally, any direct dealing with a customer has been driven by a product or service-centric mandate. This meant selling products or providing services to as many customers as possible. While this approach can be effective for short-term gains, it provides little insight or consideration for the long term value of each customer.

Customer centricity focuses on increasing the value of each customer by understanding what they value the most and then finding out ways to align this with the overall business strategy. Deloitte recently found that by identifying top value customers and focusing on meeting their needs, a business can increase sales revenue by as much as 17 percent. Apply this to the New Zealand retail industry; at the end of 2012 retail sales totalled NZD$70.3 billion. In a perfect world, customer centric retail stood to generate an additional NZD$11.9 billion in sales that same year. Looking at this more simply; a satisfied customer will return to your business.

• Customer centricity worth $11.9b in 2012

• 56% of businesses think they’re customer centric…only 12% of customers agree • 36% of customers avoid businesses for 2 years after a bad experience We know that reputations are vital when it comes to attracting new shoppers, particularly when we consider that 42 percent of satisfied customers tell their friends, family and peers about their experience. Conversely, 39 percent of customers who’ve had a bad experience with a business will actively avoid them for up to two years. That’s two years of lost revenue every time customer-facing staff aren’t able to provide an exceptional customer experience.

While traditional marketing gets customers to a business, it’s the front of house staff, the face of the business, who ultimately sell not just the product, but the experience the customer expects from your business. This is where being customer centric needs to come from the top. It’s one thing to expect front-line staff to provide quality service, but providing an ongoing quality experience, throughout the customer’s lifetime, involves a little more investment. A good start is realising the reality.

In a global survey conducted by the Chief Marketing Officer (CMO) Council in the US 56 percent of businesses claimed to be customer

centric while only 12 percent of their customers agreed. Once we understand where the business is positioned along the scale of customer centricity, we can then look at the steps needed to change the culture of the business.

Embedding a culture of sales and service within a business is something which should always be viewed as a long term investment rather than a box ticking exercise. A great initial step on this journey is to invest in training staff, and teaching them the skills they need to provide the service that customers expect. Always make sure that your training investments are aligned with this need.

When looking for a training solution, look for one that focuses on long term goals and changes in overall behaviour. For example, RedSeed’s training methodology ‘Train, Transfer, Sustain’, focuses on the slow and controlled release of information over a long period of time. Think ‘little and often’.

Once this is bedded down in the business, don’t stop! The point is that nowadays customers need a good reason to engage with a business. It’s pretty simple really; the best way to do this is to invest in empowering staff with the right tools to give customers the best experience through their entire customer journey.

So, with all of that said and done, can you say that your business is providing customers with the right kind of service?

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12 I August 2014

BEHIND THE BUSINESS

What is your store’s social media page saying?

One of the simplest, most cost effective forms of marketing is rarely used successfully according to First Retail’s Chris Wilkinson.

INSTEAD, retailers are too quick to consider social media as just another sales channel. Social media is one of the best ways to build goodwill, encourage store or web visits and get key messages into the market. Typically it’s not a channel to sell products if you want to maintain a long term relationship with customers. Platforms such as Facebook encourage relationships on a highly personal basis. Because of this, businesses need to respect the connections and develop content their customers will enjoy and respond to. A recent project brought together Facebook pages from almost every retailer in an Australasian city. Analysing content over a month showed less than 5% of posts followed social media’s established best practice principles. This demonstrated significant opportunity for businesses to get the basics right, up their game and build much stronger relationships with consumers. While the social media landscape continues to evolve, the following are key strategies we recognise as vital in building engagement and interaction. Conversation - Determine a style that fits your audience and maintain that consistently. It’s important that users become comfortable and familiar with the theme. Be topical - If the weather’s good begin a conversation that asks people what they’ll be doing

today? Facebook users respond well to ‘real-time’ discussions with up to date and relevant content. Celebrate your customers - Shoppers love to hear about others that share the same interests. ‘Stop & chat’ video interviews or pictures with short text pieces are terrific content to keep readers engaged. They also demonstrate the energy and activity that’s happening in a store – encouraging people to gravitate there. Be aspirational - Create content and themes that reflect where your customers would like to be. Ensure an upbeat, friendly and happy tone – providing a refreshing escape for those engaging with your social media pages. Don’t threaten trust by continual promotion. Retailers are always itching to promote special offers, however on Facebook, that’s not ideal. If you’re trying to sell product all the time, consumers soon disengage. Instead, share images of new ranges, introduce staff recommendations and ensure any marketing messages are subtle.

Recognise that it’s a customers’ choice whether they choose to listen to you. That trust is easily compromised when the content weighs too heavily toward sales or commercial themes. Develop your own social media ‘code’. Not only could this save on marketing costs, but the enhanced connection and goodwill from customers may surprise you.

apparelmagazine.co.nz

I 13

DESIGNERprofile

Eugénie WHEN Apparel met Liz she was wearing her own tailored black pants and luxurious grey coat. In her destination store on Mackelvie St in Ponsonby, Liz Eugénie Wallis embodies the Eugénie woman who can be tailored to a tee but still be natural and in touch with instinct. Eugénie’s aesthetic will always focus on what Liz feels is modern and relevant at the time of design. Relevance is the core of what she does. Her direction is married to a strong focus on cut, quality of construction and fabric as well as a strong focus on silhouette.

Liz originally trained as a product and graphic designer, but after a couple of years working in advertising she realized her heart lay in fashion. She retrained at Massey and worked at Karen Walker as a design assistant before working as a freelance textile designer at many New Zealand and Australian labels. Liz gets a surge of pride when her customers put a garment on and fall in love with it.

Liz has worked hard on every garment and she becomes attached to them. It’s a wonderful thing for her to see clothes going home with new owners.

The Eugénie brand is heavily influenced by art, film and music. Liz has a few muses like Charlotte Rampling and Isabella Rossellini that she returns frequently to for direction. This said, she often tends to take inspiration from the unglamorous, her first collection was drawn completely from looking at construction sites, and the current range was heavily influenced by office interior fit outs.

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BEHIND THE BUSINESS Colours can be, and often are, an important element used by businesses to distinguish themselves from others in the market.

TICKLED PINK TOP of mind examples include the use of the colour green by BP, duck egg blue by Tiffany, purple by Cadbury and red by The Warehouse.

Other examples include the use of colour names like RED by Lion Nathan, ORANGE by Orange Brand Services and YELLOW by NZ Directories.

Recognising the appeal that colours have to consumers, it’s no wonder that many businesses consider whether they can use and register a colour as a trade mark to monopolise that element for itself.

Registration as a trade mark can be of the colour name, the colour itself, or both.

Many successful businesses have been built around the name of a colour.

The colour pink is the new black in retail circles at the moment. Two significant retailers have been battling about who has the right to use the colour PINK as a brand. The battle involves Victoria’s Secret and Thomas Pink.

Victoria’s Secret is owned by L Brands Inc. Thomas Pink is owned

by LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton Group.

Thomas Pink went pink when Victoria’s Secret’s launched its PINK brand in the United Kingdom in 2012. It filed for trade mark infringement in May 2013.

Victoria’s Secret had used PINK in the USA since 2004. It had great plans to expand its operations into Europe.

It will be a big blow to lingerie and apparel retailer Victoria’s Secret learning that it has lost its trade mark case about its PINK trade mark in the UK. Thomas Pink, known for its luxury men’s shirts, claimed that Victoria’s Secret’s PINK brand would lead to customer confusion. The brand name VICTORIA’S SECRET was often not prominent when the word PINK was used both on clothing and on storefront signage.

Justice Colin Birss ruled that Victoria’s Secret’s use of the word PINK on its goods infringed Thomas Pink’s trade mark.

The Judge noted that Victoria’s Secret PINK clothing line could confuse consumers with its ‘sexy, mass-market appeal’. The Judge commented that consumers might associate the proper and expensive clothing brand with undergarments, which would cause a ‘detriment to the repute’ of the Thomas Pink brand.

Besides, given Victoria’s Secret’s plans to expand its European operations, future use of PINK by Victoria’s Secret in Europe would dilute Thomas Pink’s trade mark.

Victoria’s Secret argued that its brand was famous and that its customers were young women, not the older professionals who buy dress shirts and ties from Thomas Pink.

Victoria’s Secret also argued that PINK, as used by Thomas Pink, was merely descriptive and had not achieved the distinctiveness required for trade mark infringement. Thomas Pink had never used its trade mark in exactly the same form in which it was registered, they argued and therefore they could not rely on those rights in this case.

Victoria’s Secret also argued that Thomas Pink’s trade mark was narrowly confined to its brand of men’s luxury shirts, and that their PINK brand of women’s clothing and Thomas Pink’s shirts have coexisted in the US for years without issue.

These arguments were not accepted.

The High Court looked at four different uses of PINK by Victoria’s Secret and found two of them, on clothes and on storefront signage, had infringed Thomas Pink’s trade mark. The other two, in-store signage and social media ads, did not.

Justice Birss found the first two cases would likely result in confusion. He noted, ‘consumers are likely to enter one of the [Thomas Pink] shops looking for lingerie and be surprised and disappointed when they find they have made a mistake.’

Some interesting points to note from the case include: • colour names can be registered as trade marks – any business using a colour or a colour name should consider registering it as a trade mark • the Thomas Pink registration for PINK was found not to be merely descriptive • the differences between how the Thomas Pink trade mark was used and how it was registered was not material in this case • the market position of Thomas

Pink in Europe is different from that of the US. The average European consumer is much more likely to confuse the mark PINK, since it is strongly associated with Thomas Pink in Europe.

The High Court held this to be the case even if the well-known mark VICTORIA’S SECRET was present.

This is not likely to be the end of the road. An appeal is likely.

Meanwhile, Thomas Pink will be tickled pink with this ruling.

By Corinne Cole, Partner at AJ Park, corinne.cole@ajpark.com

iP is about ideas protected If you’re in the design industry then you’re in the business of creating intellectual property. Helping you turn that IP into a valuable asset is where we come in.

If you want to find out how to be rewarded for your creativity and innovation – talk to us about protecting and commercialising your IP. We’ve been helping designers do this since 1891! Contact us today to find out more.

0800 257 275 I www.ajpark.com I New Zealand + Australia

AJ Park is about iP • intellectual property • igniting passion • ideas pervading

apparelmagazine.co.nz

I 15

COLOUR TRENDING

JIALING WANG RESENE Torea Bay

Resene NZ Fashion Tech Colour of Fashion

ILONA GANICH RESENE Deep Blush

KIRSTIE WIGGINS RESENE Burnt Crimson

NZ Fashion Tech and Resene have come together to create a unique education project that brings the colour and silks of India to high fashion.

NATALIE MASTERS RESENE Kitsch

16 I August 2014

THE FASHION project will see 45 young designers from NZ Fashion Tech’s Diploma course use the lustrous colours and vibrant patterns of hand-woven silk saris from a Southern-Indian village re-created as high fashion and will debut at NZ Fashion Week in August.

“The challenge for the students is to take the traditional sari with its traditional values, shapes, patterns and draping, and throw that all up in the air, release their creativity, and come up with a new design idea,” says Giles Brooker.

The project was developed when NZ Fashion Tech founders Kevin Smith and Val Marshall-Smith teamed up with educators Giles Brooker and Prabha Govindasamy.

Together they created an exciting fashion education programme that will give 15 of its top fashion students who have taken part in the project the opportunity to travel to India as recipients of the Prime Minister’s Scholarships of Asia.

New Zealand’s leading paint company Resene loves to support initiatives celebrating colour and have sponsored the fashion project.

“Paint colours have for many years been inspired by colours seen on catwalks and in the latest fashion trends,” says Resene’s Karen Warman, “so it’s a nice twist to reverse the order and have paint colours used as inspiration for the catwalk”.

50 silk saris inspired by Resene paint colours were selected for the project and will be transformed into a contemporary-chic fashion look.

Resene will then showcase the students’ work at NZ Fashion Week, the Resene Colour Awards in REBECCA HALL RESENE Bondi Blue

TAYLOR JARDINLAMBERT RESENE Orient

TE AROHA GOODWIN RESENE Monza LAUREN DOOLEY RESENE Watercourse

September, on their website and in other locations throughout New Zealand.

Managing Director and co-founder of NZ Fashion Tech Kevin Smith says, “the students responded well to the brief. Armed with their Resene test pot and sari, they were asked (hypothetically) to dress Cate Blanchett for a summer luncheon in Monte Carlo.

Technical excellence was paramount, the timeline was tight, and the stakes were high: Who would show at Fashion Week? Who would catch the eye of editors?

And ultimately: Who would travel to India?”

The fashion education programme in India was developed in collaboration with the Bannari Amman Institute of Technology in Sathyamangalam, near Coimbatore.

The five-week programme will see the students re-create their garments from the NZ fashion BAILEY challenge and produce a fashion show at the Indian university. Their visit will also include a visit to the MULHOLLAND RESENE manufacturers who produced their original saris Knock Out and the opportunity to explore yarn, textile and fashion design manufacturing in India.

“This collaboration is going to succeed on so many levels for both New Zealand and India.

I believe there will be benefits across tourism awareness, community engagement, design, manufacturing, trade and education,” says Giles Brooker. “The Resene NZ Fashion Tech Colour of Fashion collection will showcase how bold the Indians are with their colour and pattern combinations and it will present New Zealand as an exciting, creative, innovative place for fashion design”.

Colours available from Resene ColorShops | www.resene.co.nz | 0800 737 363

apparelmagazine.co.nz

I 17

BEHIND THE BUSINESS

onesolution

RECRUITMENT WAREHOUSING/LOGISTICS STORAGE/DISTRIBUTION CARTAGE/TRANSPORT REWORKS (OFFSITE/ONSITE) LABELLING/STICKERING ASSEMBLING/PACKAGING RECYCLING/PRODUCT SORTING LOGISTICS CONTRACTS IMPORTS/EXPORTS

47 Allens Rd, East Tamaki, Auckland. P.O. Box 217 206, Botany Junction, Auckland 2164 Ph: 09 272 4700 Fax: 09 272 4699 Email: office@apparelsolutions.co.nz www.apparelsolutions.co.nz

DESIGNERprofile

AMELIA Boland has seen a gap in the accessories market for functional but beautiful bags. The daughter of a seamstress and mechanic, Amelia has blended the aesthetic of her mother and father’s professions to create a simple yet enduring style. Her aesthetic was also cultivated when studying fashion at Massey in Wellington and Otago Polytechnic.

In 2011 her grad collection from Otago Polytechnic was entered in the iD Dunedin International Emerging Designer Awards where it was scouted by a New York agent and went to New York for another fashion show. Amelia

worked in merchandising while developing her brand, which kept on gaining more attention. At Wellington Fashion Week she won the Wellington Fashion Week Award.

Amelia Boland wins everyone over because every design aspect of her bags has a purpose. The natural fabrics, primarily leather, bestow the bags strength and comfort while visual proportion is paramount to her collections.

Amelia is also creating beautiful knit pieces and accessories. Her summer collection includes a full clothing collection that is like her bags, simple and sentimental. Amelia is inspired by old films,

books and interesting imagery.

She is also going on her first trip to Bali to be inspired by the fabrics and factories there.

Amelia Boland is driven

by Fair Trade and a positive working environment. To keep production integrity Amelia supports local business and traditional craft knowledge by sourcing as much in New Zealand as possible. Amelia Boland pieces are made to order.

The Finest, Design-Led International Boutique Fair for Top Quality Fashion Products

Established 1984

Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre

For more information: sales@aplf.com / 852 2827 6211

25 > 27 SEPT 2014

FAA14_Apparel_210x150H_EN.indd 1

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30/07/2014 11:49 AM apparelmagazine.co.nz

DESIGNERprofile NICK VON K PROFILE

JEWELLERY THAT ROCKS Apparel sat down with jewellery designer Nick Von K and talked about his eponymous brand and the rock n’ roll world of jewellery.

A

FTER designing accessories for New Zealand label Ricochet and making jewellery on the side for a number of years, designer Nick Von Klarwill decided it was time to take the plunge and start his own line.

“Ricochet was my training ground in fashion. We made all sorts of really cool designs and I discovered that the bolder, bigger and edgier my designs were the more the customers loved it,” said Nick.

“I kept pushing the boundaries and I learned that my crazy ideas were good, and my rock n’ roll aesthetic was a winner. I also wanted to produce jewellery that was entirely different to everything else I had seen in NZ, so I created designs that incorporated a lot of hand carved elements from organic materials such as semiprecious stones, mother of pearl shell, deer antler and black buffalo horn. This really gave the brand a point of difference.”

Nick decided to manufacture in Bali. He had explored the possibilities working for Ricochet and was keen to take it to the next level using sterling silver and working closely with the many craftsmen he had met over the years. These days there is a solid team who produce the level of variety and detail the Nick Von K brand is known for. “The Nick Von K style is very eclectic. I did that on purpose when I launched the first three collections simultaneously so that I would never be boxed in as a designer. I always wanted the freedom to explore new territory and have the fans understand that about the brand.” A self-confessed collector, Nick surrounds himself with a rare and interesting mix of inspirations, all of which influence his jewellery range.

“I’m a magpie so my studio is tumbling with a collection of the strange and wonderful things I have found. There are skulls galore including a duck, a monkey, a bear, a dog, a cat and even a replica sabre tooth tiger. There are also whale teeth, carved bits of deer antler or mammoth ivory, unusual wooden ornaments, ancient padlocks from India, steel sculpture from my time as a blacksmith, rare crystals, exotic butterflies, beautiful feathers and lots of small hand carved bits and pieces. I find inspiration in many different things.”

September 2010 saw the brand’s debut at fashion week and to the industry where he gained a lot of stockists right away including Nicole Miller in the USA, which gave the brand a good seal of approval. “It really was a hell of a lot of work, I worked like a dog all year, but then when I launched it and the response was so massive it was all worth it.”

Nick believes that the best business decision he ever made was to follow his dreams of being self employed and to do something he felt so passionately about and attributes his success to the team of people around him.

“I listen to everyone I can – my stockists, my competitors, my mentors, my co-workers, my customers, even people with no idea what they are talking about.

They will often have great ideas from a point of view that I don’t have.” In an industry where if you aren’t evolving, the only

20 I August 2014

way is down, Nick has managed to keep innovating and developing the brand whilst staying true to core brand aesthetic.

“I see the role of designers as the innovators of fashion. The mass market then follows and dilutes the designers’ ideas and makes them widely available. Eventually these ideas are so available that everyone is then looking for something new again.

That’s when designers offer the next thing. So as a designer it’s all about searching for the next thing to tantalise tastebuds.” With more and more people both male and female wearing jewellery today, Nick has found his customer base expanding from indie teenagers to older ladies and men in suits. As the brand evolves, it attracts a new demographic and customers evolve with them.

Communicating with customers is incredibly important in the new age of digital media. Newsletters, social media updates and in-store viewings are all ways in which fans and customers can keep involved and engaged in the brand. Both bricks and mortar and online stores are important to Nick and stores like Walker & Hall that carry many of the brand’s range is a fantastic place for customers to visit and experience it first hand. “Of course jewellery is the type of thing that people love to try on, so a lot of people want to go to stores to shop. Having said that, online is also a very good marketplace for us. Our website has good traffic and we do sell a lot through there, and I know that other online stores do well also.” Some of Nick’s greatest achievements include making forged steel sculpture prior to starting the brand.

“I basically learnt the art of blacksmithing, heating up steel white hot and then hammering it into shape on an anvil. At the end of the year I had an exhibition and sold most of the work, which was a total buzz.

But starting my own brand definitely comes out on top. It’s a great feeling when you have spent a lot of time creating things inside the bubble of your own private space, and then when you show these creations to the general public they decide that they love it. Those are the moments where I feel like I am doing what I was put on this earth to do.”

This year, Nick Von K is to show at fashion week with his friend and K Road neighbour Adrian Hailwood. After busy times launching his first ever watch collection and range of charms, the next collection will be his best yet. Entitled The Baron and Baroness, the collection is inspired by his grandfather the Baron Von Klarwill who lived in Austria. However this story is an imaginary one about a couple, who live a fantastic life, free to pursue their own dreams and goals and love each other dearly but are very independent. “It’s the ultimate love story,” said Nick. “Each piece relates to their dynamic connection.”

“It is the first time we have ever done a runway show and have something quite unusual planned.” See all the photos from New Zealand Fashion Week on our website, www.apparelmagazine.com and if you are a retailer registered on the Apparel Buyers Lounge, you can check out the Nick Von K range available to stock now.

BEHIND THE BUSINESS

BEHIND THE BUSINESS

STUDENTprofile

Mercedes Gonzalez

By Nathalie Owen

Spanish born NZ Fashion Tech student Mercedes Gonzalez has always dreamed of working in the world of fashion design.

“I DISCOVERED this passion when I was fourteen, I began sewing and designing all day with my neighbour and I realised how exciting and beautiful it is to create with my own hands,” she says.

The 40-year-old aspiring designer grew up in a small town north of Spain called Palencia and always knew that she wanted to work in the industry.

Mercedes got her first taste of design helping her teacher create the costumes for her school’s Christmas celebration. However, it wasn’t until she was older that she truly realised her love for design and wanted to turn that passion into a career.

Mercedes began working as a tailor and dressmaker in Italy, but she longed to set out on her own as a fashion designer.

After moving to New Zealand, Mercedes enrolled in NZ Fashion Tech and began her journey into fashion design.

“My real passion is fashion and creating and giving shapes to the fabrics - for me fashion is art”.

The self-professed perfectionist has spent years honing her craft and hopes to develop her skills in computer assisted fashion design, pattern making and new fashion technologies.

“NZ Fashion Tech is teaching the way to do things effectively in a very time driven industry. It was the perfect fit for me because they teach you to make commercial garments which is very different from my background in bespoke design.”

Mercedes designs elegant clothing for the contemporary woman who appreciates beauty and looks to classic styles with a modern aesthetic.

Mercedes recently won the people’s choice award at NZ Fashion Tech’s Red Cross Upcycle Challenge and hopes to land an internship with one of New Zealand’s leading designer’s such as Karen Walker or Kate Sylvester; “somewhere that will appreciate my skills in tailoring would be preferred,” she says.

Mercedes encourages aspiring fashion design students to chase their dreams and work hard, “you will achieve what you want with a good attitude, passion and believing in yourself” – inspirational words that will no doubt serve the designer well in her future in the fashion industry.

#studs 22 I August 2014

EDITD

Crunch time for adidas:

Fixing the failings

By Katie Smith, Trend Analyst, EDITD

This month’s profit warning of sporting giant adidas sent shockwaves through the apparel and active industries. As a result, adidas share value tumbled 20%. A few factors are being earmarked for the blame.

FIRSTLY, the trouble in the Ukraine is being pinpointed as hugely problematic for the retailer, who count Russia as a key market, having over 1000 stores there. Dwindling participation in golf has affected the brand’s golf line and Taylor Made subsidiary – some 400,000 Americans left the sport in 2013. And lastly, adidas’s sponsoring of the World Cup – initially touted as a great coup – appears to have backfired, with a possible overspend on marketing not being met with sales to match.

While global affairs will always have an unavoidable and unplanned impact on the economy, there are fundamentals that adidas can address to shore up in uncertain times.

In order to sail through these turbulent waters, adidas must ensure they have the right products, at the right prices. We’ve dug into commercial data to highlight weaknesses in adidas’s product offering, which includes under-stocking of some popular colorways and price disparity between the brand’s own price points at adidas.com, and the pricing at global retailers of the brand.

1 Are adidas missing

3 Pricing woes

Kohl’s stock over 2.5 times more Nike products than adidas products, and Macy’s, who do carry adidas, stock 3 times as many Nike products.

Also in the US, Nordstrom carry more than twice as many Nike products – these are all key accounts for positioning to the active and affluent market which adidas are missing out on.

Most notably however is the brands’ offerings with ASOS. The fellow Europeans only stock 9 adidas products, to 529 Nike products.

2 Colour data ignored

some key retailers?

Yes, mainly in the US. But let’s start from the beginning. Undoubtedly, European adidas’s biggest rival is the US-based Nike. The geographical positioning of Nike has a great effect on who their biggest stockists are, and for adidas, this could mean they’re missing out on some key accounts. Zalando, also hailing from Germany, are the brand’s largest online stockist, with only one US retailer sneaking into the top five: Kohl’s.

Rivals Nike understandably dominate the US market, with Kohl’s their largest stockist and Macy’s in their top five.

Adidas have an incredibly broad offering, which covers men’s, women’s and childrenswear and a multitude of sporting activities across their many diffusion lines.

They also have fashion-forward collaborations; with Stella McCartney, with the eccentric Jeremy Scott, and recently with Topshop.

Their womenswear goes head to head not only with Nike, but with fashionable brands like Lululemon and Lorna Jane.

To compete with this busy segment, adidas need to pay closer attention to their color data: we’ve analyzed each and every product currently online at adidas.com and compared it with the colors of garments which have had full price sell outs on the retailer’s site.

It appears the retailer is trying too hard to compete with the ult-feminine offerings of the hip yoga market, with the high levels of pink and lavender currently in stock. However, EDITD data shows that blues sell better, as do the robust reds and hotter pinks.

Adidas are understocked on blues currently, as well as very understocked on the fluro yellow that sells very well in their womenswear: neons may no longer be a hot trend, but joggers still need to wear this hi-vis shade! Adidas, trust the data and your customer.

Nike have a 14.5% replenishment rate on their current stock, compared to just 10.7% at adidas. com, and a fractionally lower discounting rate – 20.7% of Nike’s offering is discounted by more than 20%, compared to 21.5% of adidas’s offering on their own site. Nike also have a higher price point: their average price is $62.33, with the core of their offering sitting between $28 and $84.34.

Adidas have an average price of $56.60, with the core of their offering sitting between $28 and $70. Looking at full priced sell outs (which could be deemed as ‘successful’ products) it’s possible adidas could afford to raise their price point, if they avoid some poorly selected stock: the average price of full priced sell outs is $60.14.

More insightful still is analysis of the way adidas stock their own offering, compared to the way global retailers stock the adidas brand. We’ve analyzed options counts to reveal the price points with the highest number of products, both at adidas.com and at 60 of their global stockists.

Either adidas are under valuing their offering, dramatically in some places, or their control on stockists’ pricing means it does not reflect their own positioning. Across the four key categories (tops, footwear, bottoms and outerwear) in women’s, men’s and childrenswear, nearly every category sees a lower mean representation at adidas.com than it does at global retailers. Take the women’s footwear category, where $70-80 is the most stocked price point at adidas.com. For the brand’s stockists that price point is $100110. This needs addressing before it skews the adidas messaging worldwide. Last week adidas announced their objective is to strengthen the brand: this could be a good place to start.

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I 23

JUST IN CLOTHING:

Just In Clothing is a small fashion boutique in Brown’s Bay. Founded by Trish Morpeth in 2011, the business has grown into a unique shopping experience both in store and online. “I’ve always had an interest in fashion,” Trish says, so a business in retail was the perfect fit. Just In Clothing stock fun, contemporary clothing with an affordable price tag for women of any age. “Part of the fun in stocking clothing comes from translating the latest runway trends into wearable and affordable clothing for women,” Trish says. Bright printed designs and lush embellishments are signatures of the brand and are perfect for the girl who likes to stand out from the crowd. For product enquires please contact Trish at justinclothingco@gmail.com or phone +64 9 4794588.

CHARLIE HORSE:

24-year-old Charlie Perry founded Charlie Horse, a high-end leather handbag and accessories line in 2011. Designed and handmade in New Zealand, the brand’s signature bags are chic and practical with a modern twist and come in an array of colours and textiles. Charlie became hooked on fashion design after designing the costumes for her school’s Shakespeare production and enrolled in Massey’s Fashion Design programme in Wellington. “But it wasn’t really my thing, so I went into retail full time,” she says. “It has been invaluable experience and made me understand the ins and outs of the industry”. Charlie started Charlie Horse in 2011 and slowly began building up her brand whilst continuing to work in retail. After stocking the bags in a number of different stores including Superette and Head over Heels, Charlie was on her way to creating a successful business. “This is the first time I have been able to produce a collection that is re-orderable,” she says. “In the past all of my leather has been limited to how much I could get at the time of purchase, which I think was a great part of what made Charlie Horse special starting out”. Charlie was longing for a creative outlet for all her inspiration and ideas, so she created her own website Charlie Horse of Course. “I try to incorporate big images and print from magazines, with personal style, travels and well documented food and beauty essentials”. Charlie Horse is currently stocked online and in array of stores throughout New Zealand. For product enquires please contact Charlie at charlie@charliehorseofcourse.com or phone 0210674744 .

24 I August 2014

PUNGA ROAD STUDIO:

FOSS AND KRUGER:

Foss and Kruger is a new fashion boutique set in the heart of the seaside village of St Heliers in Auckland. The store, which opened in February this year, has a modern Scandinavian style and stocks a range of different high end European brands including the Danish based label Day Birger et Mikkelson and its sister label 2nd Day, the French based brands Leon and Harper and By Zoe as well as the New Zealand label Sable and Minx. The store focuses on giving customers a luxurious mix of modern classics, colour casuals and exquisite evening wear. “The Foss and Kruger woman is modern, classic and effortlessly chic,” says manager and buyer Hannah Blair. “Our customers love good quality and great design and looks that can take them from day to night”. Hannah chose to open their first store in St Heliers because she saw a gap in the market for a high-end womens store in the village. “Women here have an inherent sense of style, and appreciate the fabrics and quality of the labels we offer, which is our real point of difference,” she says. Hannah is currently working on a website for the store and hopes to open another Foss and Kruger store in the future. For product enquires please contact Hannah on info@fossandkruger. com or phone +64 9 950 5914.

Punga Road Studio was founded by Amanda and Yvonne Stewart in January 2014 and provides textile-based workshops and classes by highly skilled and experienced tutors. “I’ve always felt my mother’s skill as a milliner was undervalued and wanted to provide a platform for her to teach and pass on her extensive knowledge,” Amanda says. “A number of our friends are also talented within their own fields so it made sense to widen the opportunity for others”. Punga Road Studio specialises in a range of different courses from millinery and corsetry to vintage dressmaking. “Our focus is on teaching the more experienced sewer wanting to expand their knowledge and skill without having to attend a tertiary institution to do so,” Amanda says. The studio is based at Amanda and Yvonne’s home in Whenuapai and is taught by a mix of tertiary educated tutors, many of which are currently teaching fashion design at tertiary institutions. Classes primarily run on weekends and cater up to eight people on small projects and four people on larger projects. “Corsetry has been the most popular class so far as there are very few people teaching this skill in New Zealand,” Amanda says. The studio recently collaborated with Mermaids Purse blogger Angela Carter and vintage dressmaking tutor Elise Cox. “I met Angela at a craft fair earlier this year and found that she had a love of vintage garments and sewing, and with Elise having a passion for vintage construction it was a match made in heaven!” The duo collaborated together on an original 1953 McCalls dress pattern using vintage fabrics, which Angela then wore with one of Elise’s vintage coats made for her MA to the Costume & Textile Association of New Zealand symposium.

Punga Road Studio is unique as they offer specialised master classes from experienced industry professionals that are usually only offered at a tertiary level. “Punga Road Studio is based on the premise that learning should be pleasurable and the outcomes are relevant to each student. Working at all levels we offer students the opportunity to work with highly qualified and experienced teachers”. For further enquires about Punga Road Studio please contact Amanda on info@ punga-road-studios.co.nz or phone 022 312 1191.

BO AND LUCA:

THREE OF SOMETHING:

Three of Something is a prominent up and coming Sydney based fashion label, founded by Rebecca Carmody, Jane Kidston and Bree Hay-Hendry. “From an early age we were all obsessed with fashion, so there was no question that we wouldn’t end up in the industry,” Jane says. The three fashion forces had all worked together on different fashion projects and decided to use their vast experience and knowledge of the industry to develop a vibrant young clothing line. “The underlying ideology of Three of Something is to create clean and effortlessly versatile pieces.

The brand features unique, exclusive prints, graphics and distinct garments, which all form part of its feminine but edgy aesthetic”.

The label produces a new collection every month, ensuring their customer’s always have a bold new look. The Three of Something girl is quirky, passionate about life and not afraid to make a statement.

Three of Something is currently stocked in over 80 stores throughout Australia, and the US and are soon expanding to Canada. The brand’s online store has a loyal customer base, however, the girls hope to open their own store one day to offer their customer’s the unique Three of Something experience.

For product enquires please contact Jane at jane@threeofsomething. com or phone +64 0409 896 950.

Shannon Pittman is the creative director and founder of Bo and Luca, a high-end bridal wear range with a bohemian flair for the modern day bride. “Bo and Luca was born from a lifelong passion for freedom of expression and allowing myself to create my own journey”, the designer says. Born in New Zealand, Shannon travelled the globe before finally settling in Brisbane, where she opened her first store last year. “I lived aboard for the last 10 years and spent many hours admiring women from different walks of life and different cultural upbringings and they inspired me to create beautiful effortless gowns to make special memories in our lives,” she says. Shannon’s love of fashion stems from her childhood, her grandmother was a couturier and specialised in beautiful hand made wedding gowns; so a career in bridal design was a natural decision.

“I chose bridal design because there was a gap in the market for the free spirited effortless glamour wear that I wanted to see in the wedding industry,” she says. Bo and Luca create beautiful hand crafted silk wedding gowns that embody romance and tell a beautiful love story, for the quintessentially modern bride who is comfortable in her own sense of style and is confident and vivacious in her approach to life. “Each season changes but the core effortless and free aesthetic of our gowns never does”. Shannon hopes to open another Bo and Luca store in the future to bring beautiful wedding gowns to women throughout Australia. For product enquires please contact Shannon at info@ boandluca.com.

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I 25

STUDENTprofile

Hannah-Lee Turner

By Nathalie Owen

Hannah-Lee Turner is the next generation of cool and on her way to be the next big thing in fashion.

TWENTY-TWO-YEAR old Hannah-Lee Turner is an up and coming stylist and designer who is taking the fashion industry by storm. With her child-like wonder and flair for design, Turner is breaking boundaries by supporting emerging artists and carving out her own path in the industry. After years of experience with some of the biggest names in fashion, Turner is making it on her own.

Turner’s drive and determination to succeed has seen her carve out a successful career as a stylist and designer. At the tender age of 20 she started her own label Hannah-Lee Jade and opened her own store 203H in Karangahape Rd’s La Gonda Arcade.

Turner immersed herself in the world of fashion from a young age, entering her first fashion competition, Trash to Fashion, when she was just five years old. After winning her first award, she was hooked. “The last year I entered I was 10 years old and I won second overall and first in my category, so that was a very inspiring moment for me” she says.

Working in Adrian Hailwood’s store when she was 15 was a turning point for the young designer, as it gave her a realistic understanding of the industry, and ultimately made her realise that she could turn her love of fashion into a career.

In 2008 Turner began assisting stylist Zara Mirkin, who introduced her to the reality of life as a fashion stylist. “ Zara helped me a lot with seeing and understanding the fashion industry in New Zealand,” she says. “I began working with Zara when I was about 16. I was working with fashion labels, doing photo shoots and fashion week, I was quite young, but as I got older it became more of a relationship and a good friendship,” she says.

In 2011 Turner made the big move to London in the hopes of starting her own fashion label. The move proved instrumental to her career as she gained invaluable industry experience interning with The Lazy Ones and assisting British Vogue’s Lucinda Chambers and legendary photographer Nick Knight for Garage magazine’s first cover. “That shoot was a huge eye opening experience,” she says. “I had been doing fashion shoots with Zara before I went over to London but when I got there it was such a huge

26 I August 2014

scale of big time people and there was a huge room filled with clothing, it was unbelievable,” she says. “It was a really fun experience and I was really stoked to be invited to assist them.”

After a year working in the British fashion industry, Turner returned home to New Zealand to begin work on her label Hannah-Lee Jade.

A chance encounter with events organiser Cleo Barnett at the Paper Dolls competition led Turner to be invited to have a fashion show at Shed 10. “After the show I thought ok so this is what I need to do, I need to take it more seriously, because people were asking about my clothing”. This prompted Turner to get a studio in the city, “I found this amazing space on Karangahape road and I turned half into my studio and half into my shop 203H”.

Owning her own store has allowed Turner to keep her overheads low by producing smaller quantities of stock and size ranges. This has enabled her to have the creative freedom to produce one off samples to cater to her client’s demands, replenishing stock only once it’s sold. It is a smart move for the young designer as it has become increasingly more difficult for emerging designers to break into the industry. “They can’t put their designs into shops without meeting stores pre-order requirements, large size ranges and sellable options,” she says. “This can be financially challenging and disheartening for emerging creatives and especially disruptive for the creative flow”. 203H has allowed Turner to stay afloat financially by producing smaller collections as she starts to build her brand.

Turner is challenging the industry by offering a space to nurture and grow young talent. 203H has become a platform for emerging artists and designers, as Turner is not satisfied at the current state of opportunities in the fashion industry. “It’s so important to support emerging artists and designers because they are the future of our creative world,” she says. 203H currently stocks a range of up and coming labels including, Anthea, Antipodea, Bedrock Bones, Edward Stothers, Ingrid Van Huesden, Leela Forde, Huni Sofia, Yay Splash, Riddle Me This, Young Pilgrims and Nick Von K, as well as Turner’s own label Hannah-Lee Jade.

Turner launched her first collection for HannahLee Jade, The Land of Point in March 2012. The collection was inspired by the 1970’s Harry Nilsson film of the same name and featured an array of funky floral, gingham and neon garments with a triangle point embellishment.

The Hannah-Lee Jade aesthetic “is about being fun, expressive and free and using your imagination”.

Turner instills a child like ingenuity throughout her playful designs, and draws upon the beauty of nature throughout her collections. Turner’s pieces range from 75 to 300 dollars as, “even though it is a piece of art I like the idea of people being able to afford art work, to wear to inspire themselves,” she says.

Turner is currently in the process of being stocked by The lazy Ones in London’s Brick Lane and hopes to be stocked in the US, Japan and develop an online store. Turner’s experience as an assistant stylist has led her to develop a successful career as a freelance stylist. She currently styles a list of prominent clients including: Ruby Frost for the X-factor, Stolen Girlfriends Club, Riddle Me This, Glassons and Stephan Marr; and regularly contributes to fashion publications Black, NO and Remix magazine. She has styled music videos for Ruby Frost and Pop Strangers and TV advertisements for Skinny Mobile and Cool Charm.

From fashion designer and stylist to costume queen and retailer, Turner juggles many different fashion hats, but her favourite role brings her back to her fashion design roots. “When I am most at ease is when I am actually designing the garments or painting the fabric, that’s really relaxing and enjoyable and it’s kind of like bliss,” she says. Turner encourages aspiring designers to follow their dreams and take chances, and she is living proof that you don’t have to conform to industry standards to make it in the world of fashion.

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