$ 9.00
FEBRUARY 2014 Vol 47 no 1
www.apparelmagazine.co.nz
pg 8 News
pg 16 Behind the Business
Lost in Translation 16
pg 22 Designer focus
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pg 18
Education
Colour Trending
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20
Editd
Winter Edits
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onesolution
Recruitment Warehousing/Logistics Storage/Distribution Cartage/Transport Reworks (Offsite/Onsite) Labelling/Stickering Assembling/Packaging Recycling/Product Sorting Logistics Contracts Imports/Exports
47 Allens Rd, East Tamaki, Auckland. P.O. Box 217 206, Botany Junction, Auckland 2164 Ph: 09 272 4700 Fax: 09 272 4699 Email: office@apparelsolutions.co.nz www.apparelsolutions.co.nz APP 0214 v2.indd 2
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Fashionable
Reads
Editor’s letter Happy new year and welcome back! Last year was a busy one for the Apparel team. After a year of compiling lists and forms, our 2014 Trade Directory was extremely successful and we are looking forward to doing it all again late this year. Over the holidays I spent three weeks in the USA, and I found myself analysing and comparing retail climates to ours in New Zealand. Whilst many companies boast record high sales, closer to home, it seems that wasn’t the case with all, as per the ten per cent deficit seen by the Hallenstein Glasson Group. Sales and bargains galore throughout stores, mismanaged merchandising and untrained staff could be to blame, along with the lack of the average disposable income and increase in costs. This year we are proud to launch our new Apparel Buyers Lounge initiative, which will see designers and brands forward collections on a login-based website for buyers and retailers to view. The ability to do this will cut costs for many designers and brands, allowing them to reach a wider audience and sell-in to stores that they may not be already. If you are a buyer or retailer, registration is free, please don’t hesitate to call one of our team members on 09304012 for registration or visit our website, www.apparelmagazine.co.nz. Another fantastic initiative this year is that of Wellington Fashion Week’s new trade show addition. Allowing labels to showcase their collections to an industry-only audience. The industry needs shows like this, if you are a designer, contact Cam Sneddon for more information on 06 3049211. Have a great month!
Sarah
sarah@reviewmags.com
p.s Don’t forget to sign up to our free weekly e-newsletter to keep informed about the industry and events. Visit our website www.apparelmagazine.co.nz for more information.
The Fashionable Cocktail: 200 Fabulous Drinks for the Fashion Set
by Jane Rocca
A beautifully illustrated, fashionoriented cocktail book with a drink for every taste. ‘ Fa s h i o n a b l e Cocktails’ is the cocktail book for the switched-on individual who loves trends and fashion. Each chapter profiles a personality type (including: The Fashionista, The Bohemian Girl, The Vintage Girl, and the girl who loves the classic cocktail dress) and offers a delectable selection of cocktail recipes to suit each one.
American Fashion Designers at Home
On the cover: Emma B @ Nova Models, see p18 for full shoot
by Rima Suqi
This mustread offers an intimate look into the private quarters of over 100 members of the Council of Fashion Designers of America—from Carolina Herrera’s Louis XV–influenced New York apartment to the pink-mirrored, flower-filled flat of Betsey Johnson. This collectible, oneof-a-kind sneak peek into the lives of CFDA stars reveals that fashion’s most creative minds also take their work home.
OUT & ABOUT
COACH - LAS VEGAS BOULEVARD SPACE
Kervin Alfonso and his team at the Coach store, Las Vegas have worked hard to create a fantastic shopping experience for locals and internationals. Their team are helpful, knowledgeable and go above and beyond for their customers. After spending nearly a month over the holidays in USA, interviewing and analysing retail, this team came out on top. Congratulations Team Coach.
Publisher Editor Sales & Marketing Contributors
Advertising Sales
Art & Design Photographer
Peter Mitchell - peter@reviewmags.com Sarah Mitchell - sarah@reviewmags.com Tania Walters - tania@reviewmags.com Chris Wilkinson, Anya Anderson, Katie Smith, Corinne Blumsky, Thomas Fowler Shawna Mobasheri - shawna@reviewmags.com Felicity-Anne Flack - felicity@reviewmags.com Raymund Sarmiento - raymund@reviewmags.com Caitlan Mitchell - caitlan@reviewmags.com
Editorial Assistants Circulation/Admin
Dearra Naidoo, Maddi Duthie Kieran Mitchell - kieran@reviewmags.com
ISSN 1171-2287
Level 3, Suite 9, 20 Augustus Tce, Parnell, Auckland, PO Box 37 140, Parnell, Auckland Tel (09) 304 0142 Fax (09) 377 2794
NZ Apparel is published monthly under licence. Please direct all enquiries and correspondence to NZ Apparel. The opinions and material published in this edition of NZ Apparel are not necessarily those of the publishers unless specifically stated. All material appearing in NZ Apparel is copyright and may only be reproduced with the consent of the publisher. Copyright 2012 NZ Apparel Magazine.
Vanity Fair 100 Years: From the Jazz Age to Our Age
by Graydon Carter
“Vanity Fair 100 Years” showcases a century of personality, power, art, commerce, and culture. The book takes a decade-bydecade look at the world as seen by the magazine, describing the incomparable editor Frank Crowninshield and the birth of the Jazz Age ‘Vanity Fair,’ the magazine’s controversial rebirth in 1983, and the history of the glamorous ‘Vanity Fair’ Oscar Party.
apparelmagazine.co.nz
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NEWS
Myer Talks Merger With David Jones
Despite the Myer family having fully owned or had a shareholding in Myer for the past 114 years, one of the key members of the Myer family, Martyn Myer, says the $3 billion merger proposal by Myer to combine with David Jones will be discussed at the next Myer Family Company board meeting. Myer said that it is “well recognized that the department store sector is under pressure from all sides”. The thirdgeneration member of the Myer retailing dynasty and chairman of the Myer Family Company has disclosed that there were some differing views regarding the shareholding importance to the
FYFE JOINS MICHAEL HILL
Jewellery chain Michael Hill International has appointed new non-executive director, Robert Ian Fyfe. Currently executive chairman of Icebreaker and a board director of Antarctica New Zealand. Former CEO of Air New Zealand, Fyfe also served as chairman of Star Alliance. Prior to his positions at Air New Zealand, Fyfe has worked across a variety of sectors and worldwide.
KAREN WALKER ‘VISIBLE’ EYEWEAR
company, as “for some [Myer family members] maintaining the link to the past is more symbolic than others”, said Martyn. Martyn Myer, former director of the listed company Coles Myer, which incorporated Target, Kmart, Vintage Cellars and Coles supermarkets before TPG, a private equity firm, bought the chain. In 2009, Myer then relisted on Australian Securities Exchange and the rest of the Coles Group was acquired by Wesfarmers in 2007 for AU$19 billion.
Karen Walker releases new Visible eyewear campaign that aims to highlight, celebrate and acknowledge the community groups of micro-artisans located in urban and rural areas of Kenya. Exaggerated frames, translucent lenses and gold trims are featured within this collection. Shapes from this story are rescaled versions of Walker’s favourites. The campaign features portraits of some of the people who work in and around the Ethical Fashion Initiative, set against the landscape that surrounds them. Machinists, cutters, tailors, production managers and metal workers were among the people photographed by renowned fashion photographer Derek Henderson, as well as members of the Maasai group who create the more elaborate beading work. Working with the United Nations’ ITC Ethical Fashion Initiative to create work in community groups of micro-artisans located in urban and rural areas of Kenya. Walker believes this campaign will help bring visibility to Kenya and its people as well as the work of the Ethical Fashion Initiative. Karen Walker Eyewear and the Ethical Fashion Initiative are working together to produce pouches for the new Karen Walker Eyewear collection. The simple, screen-printed pouches will be included with every pair of Karen Walker Eyewear from the Summer 2014 season through all 500 global stockists. In addition, more elaborate and embellished versions, also made by Kenyan artisan groups, will be available to by separately. “Our brand continues to enjoy popularity all around the world and this has given us an opportunity to make a difference in Kenya. We’re delighted that this season’s eyewear collection will be making a real and meaningful impact upon the people of this community” said Walker.
RED ZONE FOR HALLENSTEIN GLASSON
A slump in sales over the holidays has revealed a 10 per cent loss on the previous year for the company. The results have sparked Hallenstein Glasson to review the performance of its brands to identify problem areas in the downturn. Measures have been “put in place to rectify these areas” according to directors. Full results are expected to be released in March for the six months ending February 2014. In other Hallenstein Glasson news, ex Jag GM Tracey Shaw has stepped into her new role as CEO for the apparel group, with the womenswear chain, Glassons in her portfolio.
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apparelmagazine.co.nz
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news NEXT PAYMENTS TARGETS GROWTH WITH TNS PARTNERSHIP ATM specialist Next Payments has selected Transaction Network Services (TNS) to help launch its Retail ATM and Cash X-Press products across Australia and New Zealand. Founded last year, Next Payments is using TNSLink to manage its ATM communications and oversee the secure, high-speed delivery of transactions from hundreds of locations. Mark Beddoe, General Manager – Payments at Next Payments, said: “TNS is playing a significant role in helping us to establish our business. Our first challenge was to make our initial 40 ATMs live in a very tight timeframe and TNS was able to achieve this undertaking quickly with impressive support during the process. Since then we have expanded our ATM estate across both Australia and New Zealand and will shortly be launching our new Cash X-Press service, which will allow merchants to regain transactions they will lose when the new federal ATM legislation comes into force in February. “TNS’ high-speed and feature-rich TNSLink solution augments our own service to customers by delivering a range of additional benefits, such as near real time status and activity monitoring, and 24x7x365 helpdesk support. TNS’ flexibility and scalability makes them an ideal partner for us as we target further growth and expand our ATM estate across Australia and New Zealand.” TNSLink is a fully managed, PCI-compliant communications solution for ATMs, POS terminals and kiosks. It works with a wide array of dial, serial and IP customer terminals, and supports wired and wireless broadband access methods. John Banfield, Senior Vice President and General Manager of TNS’ Payments Division, Asia Pacific, said,
DAISY MARC JACOBS TWEET POP UP
“We’re delighted to have been selected by Next Payments to play such a crucial part in helping to establish its business. “The inaugural year is a critical time for any new start-up, so implementation, service delivery and support will be paramount and this is where our reputation is strongest. We have both the technology and team in place to deliver quickly and cost-effectively, while also being adaptable and flexible so we can meet Next Payments needs now and in the future.” TNSLink simplifies day-to-day operations by removing the need to work with multiple vendors. Using industry standard secure sockets layer (SSL) and virtual private network (VPN) technology combined with advanced encryption algorithms, such as AES, TNSLink includes 3G and GPRS wireless back-up options to ensure maximum uptime. The solution utilizes the highly resilient PCI DSS certified TNS backbone network which handles billions of transactions each year from ATMs and POS devices around the world. With a strong heritage and more than 20 years of expertise, TNS now provides services in more than 60 countries across Europe, the Americas and the Asia Pacific regions. Through its broader payment solutions offering, TNS connects over a million merchants and retailers to the world’s leading banks, acquirers and processors, enabling secure, efficient and cost-effective delivery and processing of payments. For more information about TNS, please visit www.tnsi.com
WE
Marc Jacobs’ Manhattan Daisy pop-up shop will open its doors this Friday with a twist – instead of exchanging money for goods, the store will accept “social currency”. For uploading photos onto Instagram, sending Tweets and posting to Facebook with the hashtag ‘#MJDaisyChain’, customers will be rewarded with Marc Jacobs products, including necklaces, perfumes and the best Instagram post of the day will receive a handbag. “Over the years, the Daisy brand has built a considerable following in social media, and to us, the whole undertaking is a way to say a big thank you to the people who love Daisy and are constantly finding creative ways to show their affection for the brand,” said Lori Singer, group VP of global marketing for Coty Prestige (Marc Jacobs’s fragrance licensor).
URTHER
AND F R B R U O Y Y CARR
classiqueint.com
0800 500 320 New Zealand
1300 178 801 Australia
Visit us at stand 2087
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Apparel 21 is fashionware.
News
ERP solutions for the fashion industry that improve your business performance.
• Planning/OTB • Manufacturing • Purchasing • Shipments • Wholesale • Retail • CRM • Replenishment • Point of Sale • Online Sales • Financials • Reporting and Analysis • Product Lifecycle Management
Phone: +61 3 8415 9300 Email: info@Apparel21.com www.Apparel21.com apparelmagazine.co.nz
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News SKECHERS MEMORY FOAM BLISS
Skechers have introduced their latest offering, MEMORY FOAM insoles to many of its men’s, women’s and children’s lifestyle and performance range of shoes. A sponge-like removable insole liner, Skechers MEMORY FOAM provides feet with a super soft, comfortable, yet supportive bedding that moulds to the shape of your foot when worn and bounces back immediately
after removing your feet from the shoes. Skechers designs, develops and markets a diverse range of casual footwear for trend-savvy men, women and children and meets the needs of consumers across every age and demographic. Skechers Footwear is distributed throughout New Zealand and Australia by Accent Group Limited. For contact details please go to www.skechers.co.nz.
KATIE EARY FOR RIVER ISLAND Burgeoning British designer, Katie Eary, and River Island are proud to announce their exciting SS14 Design Forum collaboration. The 18 piece collection ranges from £15-£120 and comprises bold vivacious prints, sheer fluid fabrics, sexy swimwear and accessories. After graduating in 2008 from The Royal College of Art, Katie has grown from strength to strength and has been ‘one to watch’ on the London fashion scene. Eary’s main design focus has been predominantly menswear and has worked closely with Kanye West on his fashion label. The collection has been designed with strong, confident girls in mind, that dress for themselves and want to stand out from the crowd. Animal prints in energetic colour ways are found on flowing maxi dresses and skirts with seductive thigh high slits, sexy swimwear, bleached denim shorts, dip hem T’s and billowing sleeved blouses. “River Island connects to the cool type of women which suits my project. All those independent, sexy, powerful women who frequent River Island, so naturally I thought we were a perfect match”, says Eary. The collection for River Island Design Forum is due to launch via a short film created and directed by filmmaker, Kinga Burza at the Fash/on Film event at London Fashion Week.
SERA LILLY CLOSES DOORS
NEW Zealand bridal-wear designer Sera Lilly has announced the closure of the brand’s retail shop and made to measure bridal business after nearly 10 years in the industry. Lilly attributed the closure to the influx of cheap imported products and the rise of online retailing. “We have always been proudly New Zealand Made, but it has become increasingly more difficult to do this, with the cheaper imported goods from China and other Asian countries. If we wanted to buy ‘shell’ garments from Asia at a fraction of what it costs us to produce here, and simply have them sew our label into the dress; or produce our garments in factories offshore, we could compete more easily, but that is not what we want.” Sera Lilly will continue to have an online presence with a limited range of flower girl dresses from its Little Miss range, bow ties and pocket squares from Little Man, as well as veils, sashes and beaded belts.
SHAPESHIFTING 2014 April will see the gathering of 60 of the world’s most prolific fashion and textile designers for three days. Workshops, presentations and networking events are just a few of the activities scheduled for the conference that will explore the idea of Transformative paradigms of Fashion and Textile Design. Speculations on how the future of fashion and textiles could be transformed internationally and in New Zealand will be discussed in depth and fashion and textile
design’s relation to the ability of an organism to change its shape into another form or being. With 50 presenters and exhibitors, 250 attendees it is sure to be an amazing and innovative few days including international guest speakers, Gareth Pugh and Otto Von Busch. The conference will be held in Auckland at the Viaduct Events Centre and other venues including AUT University and Auckland Art Gallery. For registrations visit www. shapshifting.aut.ac.nz.
RETAIL SECTOR TO BENEFIT FROM NEW FUNDING OPTION
SMALL and medium sized retail businesses in New Zealand will be able to access funding in exchange for equity for the first time through online equity crowdfunding platform Snowball Effect. Snowball Effect’s portal is set to launch in April and will provide entrepreneurs and small business owners with an opportunity to pitch their business ideas and growth plans to the public, expanding the pool of potential investors while reducing fund raising costs. Retail business owners will be able to obtain funding for everything from start-up concepts, to investment in retail space, new product development, increased staff or market expansion. Snowball Effect is headed up by directors Simeon Burnett, Francis Reid and Richard Allen who collectively have more than 25 years experience in international business and trade, corporate finance, strategy and valuation. “Our vision is a New Zealand economy fuelled by emerging businesses backed by everyday Kiwi investors. The country’s economic engine room is small to medium-sized enterprises (SME’s) and there are thousands of them with big vision who can’t take the next step on the growth ladder because the banks won’t lend, and other sources of capital don’t fit or are cost prohibitive,” says Simeon Burnett. Allen says the company will work with businesses to ensure they’re clearly articulating the investor value proposition to maximise their chances of successfully raising capital, with the portal having the potential to transform the investment and SME sectors. “While we will be complementary to other funding channels, we believe the concept democratises investment by giving everyday people greater choice about how and where they invest.”
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News WELLINGTON FASHION WEEK FOCUSES ON TRADE
Wellington Fashion Week returns for its third consecutive year and will guarantee international attention and praise. With more emphasis on trade, the event will allow buyers, retailers and commercial designers back into the fashion game and give them the opportunity to do business without cameras and the public eye. This year will be a big year for Wellington Fashion Week director Cameron Sneddon with plans to focus attention on hosting a more buyer and trade focused event. Aimed at the trade specifically this will give designers a chance to put their collection into a show that will be exclusive to buyers and retailers. These shows will be balanced out with the in-season consumer shows for the public to get in on the fashion in the capital action. “I think we’ve really achieved the balance between current consumer shows and trade this year. We’re excited and confident our structure is a gamechanger”, claims Sneddon. With two successful events under the Wellington Fashion Week team’s belt, Sneddon has created a new-look structure established through a partnership with Apparel Magazine, emphasizing the necessity for exclusive trade only shows. FashionTV, the world’s only international live broadcasting fashion TV channel is confirmed to capture this year’s event, broadcasting New Zealand fashion to millions worldwide. Are you a buyer or retailer and want an invite to the trade only shows at Wellington Fashion Week for 2014? Contact Cameron Sneddon on 06 304 9211 for your exclusive invite. Are you a designer that wants to put a collection in front of industry buyers and retailers all in one place without a hefty price tag? Contact Cameron Sneddon on 06 304 9211.
World To Unveil Future Of Nz Fashion WORLD will return to iD Dunedin Fashion Week as the national guest designer unveiling its new international collection – a look into the future of high fashion in New Zealand. As New Zealand’s foremost avant-garde fashion house, the new collection ‘Penny wise, pound foolish’ will be shown at the historic Dunedin Railway Station catwalk show following its debut at Paris Fashion Week. WORLD creative director Francis Hooper, who was recently honoured in the New Year’s New Zealand Order of Merit list, is thrilled to be part of iD again. “iD Fashion Week is the most interesting fashion week that we have ever been a part of! The atmosphere is electric”. Tickets are still available for the iD International Emerging Designer Awards on Thursday 3 April and the iD Fashion Show on the Friday through ticketdirect.co.nz.
KATHMANDU APPOINTS NEW HEAD Acting chairman of Kathmandu John Harvey will soon be replaced by David Kirk as the new chairman of the company. As the business continues to grow from strength to strength, Kirk is looking forward to taking up the new role to build a more global presence. “I have been impressed by the results achieved by the company since it listed in 2009, and in particular the significant progress it has made in
growing its online sales through Kathmandu’s own platform and global marketplace websites. I look forward to contributing to the further development of Kathmandu’s growth strategy,” said Kirk. Currently holding a number of other directorships including chairman of Trade Me Group Limited, and former chairman of Hoyts Group Limited, Kirk is also a co-founder of Bailador Investment Management.
Full CMT Service Providing end to end solutions for sampling and production • Pattern Grading • Cutting • Making • Finishing • Pressing • Ticketing
Providing quality for 25 years Your label at the centre of our business
Call us today on 09 444 9010 or email us at
enquiries@kerilinfashions.co.nz for our introductory offer www.kerilinfashions.co.nz
apparelmagazine.co.nz
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Education
Industry Ready
New Zealand is lucky to be home to many fashion industry training schools and universities where many individuals learn how to sew, design and gain industry specific business skills to push them over the line to ensure they gain employment post-graduation. New Zealand Fashion Tech has been educating fashion students since 1995, led by directors Kevin Smith and Val Marshall-Smith. In a recent report of external evaluation and review conducted by NZQA, assessors concluded that “Fashion Tech is considered a ‘standards-setter/ standards-keeper by the fashion industry and is actively leading the Targeted Review of Qualifications process for garment manufacturing qualifications”.
encourages students to challenge ideas, re-examine boundaries and foster creativity while experimenting and developing the strong technical skills required for a future in the fashion industry. With small class sizes, students work closely with tutors in industry targeted workshops and studio practice. By opening a Fashion Shop, SIT has allowed fashion students that are undertaking the Postgraduate Diploma in Business Enterprise, while also serving undergraduates enabling them to sell the clothes they make while studying. Not only do fashion students learn how to design and produce clothing, they are also supported by learning essential elements of starting up their own business. Degrees at SIT prepare graduates for employment in the fashion industry by developing creative, innovative designers who are culturally aware and consumer conscious. Graduates of the programme are skilled in research, design development and have sound knowledge of business marketing and management practices in the fashion industry.
DAS Students for Miss World Director Kevin Smith believes that by continually analysing and developing their courses they are able to keep up with industry needs and demands, providing them with graduates that have a wide skill set and knowledge base. “It is important to keep looking at the future of the industry and ask ‘what is the industry going to look like in 10 years’ and be flexible in the needs of the industry,” said Smith. Simon Julius and Andrina Stanisich, directors of DAS Training Solutions, and their team of experienced tutors are teaching students skills that they can use to run their own business from home and sampling for companies. DAS students and staff are heavily involved outside the classroom also with projects like designing for the Miss World contestants and costumes for the upcoming Mama Mia stage production at The Civic in Auckland. Projects and industry experience prepare students for the changing industry and the demand for multi skilled employees. After establishing their Fashion Department in 1988, Whitecliffe students have continued to achieve great results, including being finalists in iD International Fashion Awards and working with top designers and labels, creating and designing new collections. Their programme
For a second year, DAS Training Solutions students will be designing the gowns for Miss World contestants in both the Cultural and Eveningwear categories. This month they have met with contestants and Warren Edwards will be coming in to talk gowns, trends and all things pagent.
FASHION AT SIT Bachelor of Fashion (Design and Technology) Material costs with Zero Fees Scheme $5940
Certificate in Pattern Making and Garment Construction Material costs with Zero Fees Scheme $810
TE WHARE WANANGA O MURIHIKU
Call today or email info@sit.ac.nz February start
www.sit.ac.nz 0800 4 0 FEES
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Behind the business
Be one s s e c c u s of our stories
00 300 .ac.nz Call 080w0.n8 zfashiontech or visit ww
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Education
Finalists Revealed For 10th id Awards The 10th anniversary of New Zealand’s only major international emerging designer fashion awards will unveil 31 unique collections from around the globe incorporating innovative fabrication, new technology, bold silhouettes and intense colour.
The finalists, selected from a pool of almost 100 entries and representing nine countries and 16 high profile fashion schools, will vie for top prizes in the prestigious awards, to be held
at the Dunedin Town Hall on Thursday April 3. Designers Tanya Carlson and Margi Robertson, and fashion industry expert Des Rusk were impressed by this year’s selection.
“From 3D modelling to a reinterpretation of traditional techniques, there was a strong individualism in each collection,” said selector Des Rusk. iD committee chair Susie Staley says this year’s 10th anniversary of the awards is an exciting celebration of what is considered one of the Southern Hemisphere’s top fashion awards. “In 10 years of the awards, we have helped launch the careers of countless young designers who have gone on to work in high profile fashion houses around the world, as well as launching their own labels. The awards provide not only incredible networking opportunities and cash prizes, but to be critiqued by some of the most influential fashion leaders in the world - from Stephen Jones to Hilary Alexander, Akira Isogawa to
Lutz Huelle, alongside our very own designers - is a once in a lifetime chance for many of these designers.” This years finalists include New Zealand students from AUT, Whitecliffe, Massey University (Wellington) and Otago Polytechnic.
Passion for
Fashion? Kick start your career with Industrial Sewing Pattern Making Fashion Design
Competenz is now the industry training organisation for apparel and textile manufacturing. We set national standards and make it easy to learn new skills on the job. Contact us to find out about National Qualifications for your employees. 0800 526 1800 www.competenz.org.nz
Call 0508 327 872 Miss World (NZ) wearing the National Costume designed by sewtec student Amy Lautogo
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Behind the business
BACHELOR OF FINE ARTS
FASHION DESIGN
The Whitecliffe Fashion Design major encourages students to challenge the traditional boundaries of fashion and to foster their creativity while developing high levels of experimentation and technical skills.
www.whitecliffe.ac.nz
Designer Courtney Harper apparelmagazine.co.nz 2013 Year 4 Top Student
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Designer Courtney Harper 2013 Year 4 Top Student
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Behind the business
Three Steps to Creating a Better Customer Experience
top trends get ahead Retailing is a constantly changing industry, but it’s the past twelve months that have seen seismic shifts that promise to really transform shopper behaviour. These include growth in mobile e-commerce, blurring of the lines between instore and online – and consumer’s increasing quest for value. These are our top picks for smart retailing strategy: Experiential retailing is what will help set great from good in the year ahead. Shoppers can get convenience, attentive service and competitive pricing anywhere, but to come away with a ‘wow’ factor is something else. Retailers that deliver delight to the senses, focus on range curation and build aspirational values will be the ones to stand apart. A great example of this is Redcurrant’s refreshed stores. True Omni-channel is about ensuring the same proposition and experience whether you’re shopping instore or online. In 2014 we’ll see even more consumers split purchasing between the shop – and most likely their phone or tablet computer. Helping people make the connection and then engaging them with your brand needs to be a key focus. 3 Wise Men have successfully developed a strong Omni-channel relationship with their dedicated customers. Value still underpins most purchasing decisions. Helping those that aspire to shop at your store
should be stepping stones of value –with offers, or entry level products that have greater affordability. This strategy ensures customer succession planning and widens your potential market. In Wellington, Kirkcaldie & Stains Department Store has achieved this through range development, new categories and special offers. Keeping it fresh is vital in maintaining relevance and interest to consumers. Changing the look and feel of your store on a regular basis keeps shoppers engaged – and coming back. Simple, but highly visible décor and promotional elements are key strategies to achieve this. For a good example, look at Glasson’s latest stores. With potentially fewer people through your doors each day, range extension is one way to achieve more from those that do come in. If you’re already selling clothing is there potential that customers are shopping elsewhere for accessories? Look at categories that have a close synergy as a range addition to boost average sales – and maintain goodwill. Hallensteins growth into accessories shows how a retailer can successfully achieve addon sale potential through category development. Every retailer has the opportunity to do some – if not all of these strategies. Beginning the year with a fresh perspective and goals for change could make all the difference to business performance in 2014.
Chris Wilkinson
Managing Director of Strategists, First Retail group. www.firstretailgroup.com
1. Find Your Place On The Retail Spectrum Bob Dylan said it best, “The times they are a-changing,” and retailers need to be ready to embrace this philosophy of change. Over time, the line between online and offline retail will become increasingly blurred. Retail is in a state of flux with more and more bricksand-mortar stores increasing their online presence and vice versa. It’s helpful for retailers to stop thinking of shopping as an “online versus offline” experience, and more as a spectrum where online retail and bricks-and-mortar are constantly sliding along the scale in response to consumer trends. Understanding where the company sits on the spectrum and assessing it against where it should be, will influence how you approach the next step. 2. Implement New Tools and Strategies Moving with the times has become a two-way street with online and offline retailers beginning to immerse themselves in ‘omnichannel’ retail. While bricks-and-mortar retailers are slowly gaining confidence in the online
arena, the likes of US online brands Warby Parker, BaubleBar and Bonobos are following suit and opening physical stores. The new reality is that customers want to access content, buy products (be it online, or in a store) and receive service from wherever they are. It is no longer a ‘nice-to-have’, it is an expectation from your connected customers that they can shop through whichever channel serves their needs right now. Choose new tools and strategies wisely remembering not to neglect the core of bricks-and-mortar business; quality customer interactions. Implementing tech tools and online strategies alone will not solidify a retailer’s place in the market. As discussed earlier, consumers are looking for retail to be a whole experience which means that frontfacing staff play an integral role in the success or failure of any bricks-andmortar business. 3. Empower Your Sales Team
While many things in the physical store add to the customer’s experience, none will do more so than front-facing staff. The way they are presented and interact with customers will have an impact on buying decisions and the long term value of a customer to the business. If you can provide exceptional customer service you are going to do two things: 1. You are going to attract more customers to your business. 2. You are going to build up a strong base of brand advocates. With the majority of the world’s population inseparable from their mobile devices, the online component of retail is here to stay. The fact that, as mentioned earlier, 95 percent of domestic retail sales are still taking place in physical stores, should heed a warning to New Zealand retailers. Bricks-and-mortar is still where a majority of the spend is, so it is still just as important to focus on customer experiences in the physical store as it is to focus on the online presence. It is imperative that retailers understand and embrace both channels. Continuous training forms a vital
part of effective learning. This is not revolutionary, and by no means a new approach. It is something that has been tried and tested, and has proven itself to be a winning philosophy. Technology is simply a tool; a catalyst for change that serves to supplement the existing customer experience. What will affect the most change in your sales figures and improve your customer’s experience, is the ability to empower your staff to be exceptional at what they do; provide exceptional customer service. Anya Anderson is Managing Director of RedSeed Ltd, a company that specialises in cloud-based retail training. Their core products include customer service, retail and B2B sales, compliance, and management training. She can be contacted at anya@redseed.me or www.redseed.me
Anya Anderson Managing director RedSeed Limited Christchurch www.redseed.me
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Behind the business
BY ANY OTHER NAME…? The recent furore about use of the word JANDALS ® by Lastseason. co.nz highlights the need to do prudent checks before adopting a brand. Not all brands are available to adopt. You might think the word is common and available for all to use – but this is no defence if you adopt a brand another party has already registered and uses, and they sue you for infringement. Brand owners who invest in protecting their brands are not going to easily allow others to ride on their coat-tails. They will take whatever steps they consider reasonable to protect their investments. Therefore before you invest in developing a new brand, do a thorough search of what currently exists – the risk of not doing so can be expensive. Selecting a brand for your business gives you the opportunity to be creative and unique – so instead of choosing a common word as your brand, think outside the box and create something new. Do a search of all the trade mark records and of the marketplace. The aim is to find out what brands are already in use, applied for, or registered. You can then decide whether your new brand is too close to what is already registered. Clearing a brand can be complex. It needs time and lateral thinking. It is also helpful to have a level of familiarity with the databases you are searching. Specialist assistance should be sought for searching. To do a search, you need to be clear about what your brand is. Consider all of its various elements so each element can be searched. Also understand what your business does (that is, what products or services you provide) not just now but intend to offer in the future. However, searching is often where problems occur, particularly if the
approach is DIY. For example, one business had searched for the prefix of the brand they were interested in. They found many trade marks beginning with the same prefix but somehow missed the exact trade mark! That business went on to produce catalogues and labels based on their understanding the trade mark had been cleared for their use. They only realised they had a problem when they received a letter from a firm of solicitors pointing out that their use infringed another’s trade mark. Not only did they have to re-label their goods, they also had to select a new (properly cleared) trade mark, and pay legal costs. Another business searched the exact trade mark they were interested in. They found the exact trade mark but in a different class to the class in which they knew their goods were classified. Trade marks are classified in 45 classes; classes 1-34 cover products, and class 35-45 cover services. Again, they proceeded to use the trade mark until they also received a solicitors’ letter asking them to stop. They were infringing the rights granted under the trade mark they had, in fact, found. What they had not considered was the likeness of the goods. You can infringe another’s trade mark even if you provide different goods or services that are in a different class – similarity can be enough. So, how do you try to avoid this happening? The criteria selected for each brand you search for will depend on several factors. These include the nature of the trade mark, the presentation of the trade mark, its meaning, the goods or services or both on which it will be used, as well as the country and database being searched. It is also important to note that trade mark rights are territorial in nature. If you intend to export goods from New Zealand, then you should also clear your trade mark for use in
each of the countries where you will use your trade mark. Too often a business that chooses to undertake its own trade mark clearance search often goes no further than entering the exact trade mark as the search criteria. While on occasion you may find an exact trade mark, it gives no clue about whether there is a similar trade mark lurking on the database or is in use. This is important to bear in mind as New Zealand, like many other countries,
has infringement laws that extend to cover ‘similar’ trade marks. The moral of the story is don’t assume anything – check, check, and check again.
Corinne Blumsky
Partner at AJ Park corinne.blumsky@ ajpark.com
iP is about ideas protected If you’re in the design industry then you’re in the business of creating intellectual property. Helping you turn that IP into a valuable asset is where we come in. If you want to find out how to be rewarded for your creativity and innovation – talk to us about protecting and commercialising your IP. We’ve been helping designers do this since 1891! Contact us today to find out more. 0800 257 275 I www.ajpark.com I New Zealand + Australia
AJ Park is about iP • intellectual property • igniting passion • ideas pervading
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Colour Trending
SMOKE & MIRRORS S
ultry and seductive like a romantic
SULTRY and seductive like a romantic Parisian the are fashion collective street, Parisian the fashionstreet, collective chewing tobacco are chewing tobacco and spitting out and spitting out the palette for this seasons colour the palette trends. trends. Hints for of this gold, seasons cognac, colour chocolate plus Hints of gold,together cognac,tochocolate surprise indigo weave achieve aplus diverse and indigo selection weave together to keeping achieveitafresh diverse modern of colours, and fun. and modern selection of colours, constantly Daks shows this season in a RelaxeditChic keeping freshis what and fun. muted but effective effortless colour in Relaxed Chic is what trench. Daks Pop shows this the sleeve matched to Resene Afterburner ensures season in a muted but effective effortless the coat isn’t in theincrowd. trench. Poplost colour the sleeve matched to Refusing to fade, tribal and Aztec are clearly still Resene Afterburner ensures the coat isn’t lost relevant trends with influential designer Donna in the crowd. Karen looking to ancient artwork for inspiration – to die, tribal andResene AztecAuthentic are clearlyis bothRefusing for colours and patterns. still matched relevantto the trends with major best woody colour used designer by Karen Donna Karan to ancient artwork for in this light and looking flowing cap sleeve top. inspiration both for colours patterns. Nature is a –running theme acrossand all collections this season, but none more literal than theto golden Resene Authentic is best matched the sunrise from Ports 1961. woodyprinted colour silk usedshirt by Karan in this light and The delicately flowing cap sleevehandled top. relaxed fit top has elements of brown and cognac, it’s gold Nature is a running themebutacross all that the
collections this season, but none more literal than the golden sunrise printed silk shirt from Ports 1961. The delicately handled relaxed fit
top hasthrough elements of like brown and cognac, but shines much the vibrancy of Resene it’s gold that shines through much like the Manz. vibrancy of Resene Hot N Spicy. On the other end of the scale Phillip Lim On from the other end ofto the Phillipdaring Lim moves the sunrise the scale deep ocean, moves from gold the sunrise to the deepsimilar ocean,to to mix pastel with vibrant indigo Resene Submerge. The name more daring to mix pastel gold withcouldn’t vibrantbe indigo fitting LimResene takes usSubmerge. on an aquatic similaras to Theadventure name with a half andasstunning blue couldn’t be sheer more top fitting Lim takes us glasses. on an Not normally associated with tobacco, pairs aquatic adventure with a half sheer Lim top and the fluid blue with grounded, solid brown stunning blue glasses. Not normally associatedto achieve balance. with tobacco, Lim pairs the fluid blue with Following the trend of indigo and tobacco, grounded,Chisato solid brown to achieve balance. Tsumori showcases a cognac and blue Following on trend of indigo and playsuit similar to Resene Elvis that hastobacco, elements Tsumori a cognac rice farmshowcases worker. Chisato drivesand the of an AsianChisato blue playsuit similar to Resene Elvishomage that image with a sedge hat, paying Eastern hastheelements an Asian rice farm worker. to designer’sofheritage. As eachdrives colour the other, Chisato theinfluences eastern image with designers a sedge take what would appear a dull choice and hat, paying homage to theasdesigner’s heritage. transform it into a paletteinfluences that is compatible across As each colour the other, many inspirations, backgrounds and visions – a designers take what would appear as a dull creative feat not to go unnoticed. choice and transform it into a palette that is compatible across many inspirations, backgrounds and visions – a creative feat not to be unnoticed.
Colours available from Resene ColorShops | www.resene.co.nz | 0800 737 363
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RESENE CHRISTINE KAREN WALKER
RESENE AFTERBURNER DAKS
Resene RESENE Manz HOT N SPICY PORTS 1961 RESENE SUBMERGE PHILLIP LIM
RESENE TAHITI GOLD TOMMY HILFIGER
RESENE ELVIS TSUMORI CHISATO
RESENE DI SIERRA HERMES
RESENE AUTHENTIC DONNA KARAN
Resene Afterburner Resene Authentic Resene Christine Resene Di Sierra Resene Elvis Resene Manz Resene Hot N Spicy
Resene Submerge Resene Tahiti Gold
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Retail Trending
LOST IN TRANSLATION Photographer: Caitlan Mitchell • Model: Emma B @ Nova Models • Hair/Make Up: Grayson Coutts Stylist: Caitlan Mitchell • Fashion Assistant: Dearra Naidoo
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TWENTY-SEVEN NAMES Crosshatch Frill Tee, LIAM Stark Pant in white, DEADLY PONIES Mr Nebular in light
LE SPECS Tweedledee Sunglasses, MOOCHI Marigold Dress in white, NEUW Vermon Knit in moon, NEUW Sharp Coat in black, DEADLY PONIES Mr Fill Bag, BRIARWOOD Gaby Boot in black Left page: RUBY Breathless Gown in nude, ANDREA MOORE Custom Made Cape in black, LE SPECS Tweedledee sunglasses
LE SPECS Tweedledee Sunglasses, MOOCHI Marigold Dress in white, NEUW Vermon Knit in moon, NEUW Sharp Coat in black, DEADLY PONIES Mr Fill Bag, BRIARWOOD Gaby Boot in black
LIAM Blurred Sweater in charcoal marle, TWENTYSEVEN NAMES Cadillac Shirt, NEUW Marilyn Jeans in midnight blue, Katherine Wilson Mela Loafer in white ON THE COVER: ADIDAS BY STELLA MCCARTNEY Stu Jumper, INGRID STARNES Claud Skirt in black, MARDE Belt in black LE SPECS The Dandy sunglasses, DEADLY PONIES Mr Nebular in light
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Behind the business
top 10 trends shaping fashion retail in 2014 retailers who make timed sales the core of their business model (Gilt Groupe, Groupon), mainstream retailers are getting in on the act. Neiman Marcus lead the pack in timed sales, with their “Midday Dash” promotions every one or two days. Nasty Gal, Missguided and Topshop are all now using the tactic to create an element of panic – a valuable tool in a crowded market.
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2014’s colour palette speaks pastels
We were surprised when the Pantone Colour Institute announced their colour of the year to be ‘Radiant Orchid’. It wasn’t something we’d seen on the catwalks and it’s a shade that sees widespread discounting. Instead, pitched for real, measurable commercial success are the colours we’ve seen in force on the SS14 runways, from globally influential designers: the pastels at Christopher Kane, Burberry and Miu Miu. Be it spearmint from DKNY and Zac Posen, powder pinks at Dior and Antonio Marras, lemon sherbet at Balmain and Jil Sander or soft lavender at Burberry and Chanel: the software that powers our colourwheels agrees that pastels are hits for 2014.
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Competitive sales
An increasing e-commerce landscape means the drive to get consumers in front of sales stock is more competitive than ever before. Flash sales, once reserved for high end stock or electrical goods, are this year on the verge of sweeping the breadth of the apparel industry. While there are
prints and styling as we seek some escape from the norm.
9
Destination: Paris
As we head into another fast-paced year in the apparel industry, we give you a head start with our top 10 insights for the 12 months ahead. Here are the ten things shaping the fashion landscape in 2014, bound for commercial success and soon to be taking up column inches.
event will drive a bright sportswear palette and a carnival theme. Menswear will take a looser and longer line sports fit – noticed by our analysts in new arrivals of shorts.
Not only is Paris Lonely Planet’s city of 2014, it also ranks as QS’s top student city of the year. With more eyeballs on Paris over the next 12 months, The Peninsula Paris have timed their August 2014 opening on Avenue Kléber well. Doing luxury fashion better than any other city, the world will be watching when Nicolas Ghesquière makes his Louis Vuitton debut in February and J W Anderson makes a start at Loewe. We might expect North American brands will be added to those eyeing up a flagship on the city of love’s streets.
Power of prints
Retailers are no longer simply using online to market their existing products, they’re designing with online in mind. Prints are a critical merchandising tool in e-tail – visually engaging and can be used to add interest to tried and tested products which the retailer knows fit. We expect to see retailers take greater confidence in their prints during 2014, with snakeskin coming to the fore for SS14. It was backed by Michael Kors and Prada on the SS14 runway, sold well in the build up to Christmas 2013 and has continued to arrive into store at full price since the holidays.
World Cup
The World Cup will be an unavoidable influence on the apparel industry in 2014. Hosted by Brazil, the event kicks off in June, meaning not only a good summer of sales for the sports industry, but adding yet more momentum to the sports luxe theme which is now a staple. Sweatshirts and slogan tees will retain their popularity through the year, becoming increasingly decorative in a bid to stand out. The South American influence of the
Wearable technology
The potential in the wearable tech industry will explode in 2014. Burberry’s Angela Ahrendts move to Apple sent out a signal to the technology, apparel and accessories industries that things are about to get real. Sure, Fleetwood Mac may have been using a wearable drum kit nearly 30 years ago, but things are on the cusp of getting a whole lot more useful. While the focus will initially be on accessories – taking the lead from Google Glass and Apple’s rumoured watch – the increased acceptance of tech in fashion will see retailers strive towards developments in technological fabrics and lifestyle appropriate clothing. Expect to see even value retailers getting in on the act, taking Uniqlo as their exemplary role model.
Fashion and art world collision
In an act of rebellion against the mass of ‘celeb’ collaborations, savvy brands and retailers will pair up with the art world in order to differentiate credibly. It’s a trend being set by the likes of & Other Stories and COS on the high street and some of the biggest players in the luxury industry got involved for SS14, with Jil Sander, Chanel and Prada all pairing with artists or getting painterly in their prints. The V&A’s Italian Fashion exhibition will open this year, further ramping the profile of the fashion and art collision.
Fantastical films
The list of 2014 film releases reads like an 8 year old boy’s wishlist: Godzilla, Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles, Transformers: Age of Distinction, The Lego Movie, Planet of the Apes, Captain America – all released in the next 12 months. Add in the much-anticipated return of Game of Thrones and the year is jam-packed with action, fantasy and superheros. This will have a big impact on childrenswear, and not just licensed product, but we expect it to also influence men’s and women’s wear
Blurring of seasons
For many in the Northern Hemisphere, winter weather has barely begun, and yet spring collections are already being peddled by retailers. It’s a confusing landscape for the consumer, and we expect 2014 to tackle this head-on, with increased blurring of seasonal divides and greater influence on hardworking, trans-seasonal pieces. The SS14 collections were noted for being wintery in tone, but this is just the beginning of the ditching of the season-bound rules.
Decade: 90s
Rather than dwindling, the 90s influence will grow in 2014. With the high street becoming increasingly skilled in luxe-looking prints and textures, the luxury market flaunt their difference through well-cut simplicity. The 90s is the decade they will pillage for inspiration – but it’s a light-hearted, clean and bright Millennial take rather than the moody grunge we’ve seen in recent seasons. Wide trouser shapes, loose cuts, lustrous surfaces, metallics, cami straps and velvet will all pair with the year’s pastel palette, creating commercial hits. We’ll be with you throughout the year, providing insight and analysis on every move the apparel industry makes. Never miss a story by signing up to our Insider Briefing newsletter now.
By Katie Smith, Trend Analyst, EDITD EDITD connect fashion, luxury and apparel people with the data they need to make better decisions. www.editd.com/blog
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introduces . . . .
Apparel Buyers Lounge
An interactive, comprehensive and exclusive website created for the fashion industry which showcases designers and brands forward season collections exclusively to registered buyers and retailers all in one place at one time at your convenience. If you are a buyer/retailer or designer and would like be part of this exclusive new website please contact, Sarah for more information either via email sarah@reviewmags.com or phone 09 304 0142 ext 202.
Apparel Buyers Lounge is brought to you by Apparel Magazine. The business of fashion since 1969.
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Lisani Lennox with her husband, Mark.
Designerfocus
Lisani Lennox of Lennox
Interpreting the Trends
Growing up in Auckland, Lisani has always had a love for fashion design, from her first part time job during the school holidays working in set design, to learning the ropes of apparel production, buying and selling fabrics to designing textiles. The first article of clothing she designed was a pull over pale pink dress for her Cindy doll. “She only had one outfit to go over her bikinis so this was never going to be satisfactory”, said Lisani. Recently opening a store in Ponsonby, Auckland, Lisani has grown her business and is now a well recognised national wholesaler.
“I studied graphic, costume and textile design, combined with studying sculpture and photography at school. This gave me a good introduction to the more three dimensional aspects of design and the limitless possibilities. I entered the textile industry for a small luxury fabric supplier, embarking on international buying trips and gaining a sound knowledge of textiles and their uses. The company sourced and directly provided fabrics to the top New Zealand designers. Interpreting the current international AW 2 0 1 4 s m o k e a n d m i r r o r s trends, understanding the “creatives” D e s i g n f o r o u r w i n t e r 2of 0 1 4New r a n g e Zealand i s a l l a b o u t fashion and i l l u s i o n , d r a m a a n d c o l o u r. delivering an affordable quality Garments have been designed to work with one another huge curve. t o c r e a t e a c o m p l e t e w a r d r o b e tproduct h a t i s b u r s t iwas n g w i ta h w a r m w i nlearning ter colour and deep neutrals with sparks of contrast to compliment. Luckily I was taught from one of the The colour palette is influenced by carnival glass, industry and they gave me f i r e l i g h t a n dbest w i n t e rin f r uthe it. many of the to get to where I P i n k a n d o r a n g e f o r m a d r a m a t i c c o n t r tools ast with graphite, black and sand. am today.”
Balancing Act “There are the everyday issues of running a business, producing a high quality fashion range and of course the balancing act of motherhood. These things matter to me as a fashion designer, businesswoman and mother, but here are bigger industry issues facing us worldwide that we all need to take into account as well.”
S m o k y p r i n t s w i t h h i g h p o i n t s o f c o l o u r.
Laser cuts with bright linings peeking through. Coated fabrics, leatherette, brocade and corduroy create layers of texture that underpin and deepen the colour range. O ff b e a t p l e a t s , i n t r i c a t e p a n e l l i n g , c l e a n s i l h o u e t t e s , c l e v e r detailing … a truly cohesive range that challenges and intrigues. C r e a t e y o u r o w n m a g i c a l i l l u s i o n w i t h L e n n o x t h i s w i n t e r. w w w. l e n n o x . c o . n z
L5006 square peg dress - black
“I strongly support New Zealand made and quality garments, to me, are strong in design with careful construction, quality finish, wearability and comfort.” 22 I February 2014 APP 0214 v2.indd 22
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L40 1 8 c a p e r t u n i c - b l u e j e a n L20 0 9 l e g e n d t i g h t s - t w i l i g h t
Do the Legwork
L4018 caper tunic - bluejean L2009 legend tights - twilight
Street Style
“My advice to young designers would be to get good training. There are a number of great fashion schools in New Zealand. It is important to have an up to date CV. Do the legwork! Intern with New Zealand design houses, they are usually happy to take on work experience people during their busy times. Most importantly, don’t be afraid to ring and ask for a placement, get your CV out to as many people as possible, the industry is not for the shy.”
“Inspiration for my collections comes from everywhere. Style in the street, the people who put together a strong individual look that makes you turn your head and ask what they’re doing right. It is always helpful to turn to nature, the mother of colour and design. My children definitely are an inspiration, they tell me when I get it wrong.”
L 1 0 0 4 s h e ’s t h e b o m b jacket - plum L1004 she’s the bomb jacket - plum L 5 0 0 8 b r e e z e t u n ic - bonfire L5008 breeze tunic - bonfire
Timeless “I find that I don’t have favourite fabrics to work with. There is such an amazing array of man made and natural fibres available that we are spoilt for choice. Texture is important to me, ribbing, velvet, jacquard, special weaves. For a bit of fun, laces, PVC, synthetic and coated fabrics. Individual prints are probably more what I have to search for. I love silk as it is not only beautiful but timeless and we have found that we always have a demand for the natural fibres from our customers. It would be a shame to limit myself by only working with a few.
L4013 tuck de luxe top - magenta L3003 pleats & thank you skirt - persimmon L1005 easy rider jacket - sand L5008 breeze tunic - seafog
L5007 s q u a re d a n c e p i n a f o r e - l a d y g r e y
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tuck de luxe top - magenta L3003 pleats & thank you skirt - persimmon
“I strongly support New Zealand made and quality garments, to me, are strong in design with careful construction, quality finish, wearability and comfort. A great garment should not only be stylish and fit like a glove but should make you feel confident and beautiful.”
L1004 she’s the bomb jacket - black L4013 tuck de luxe top - tangerine L2008 pipeline trackpant - ocean L 1 0 0 6 d o v e r c o a t - graphite L 5 0 0 7 s q u a r e d a n c e p i nafore - lady grey
L5007 sq u a r e d a n c e p i n a f o r e - l a d y g r e y
L 1 0 0 6 d o v e r coat - persimmon L 2 0 0 8 p i p e l i n e trackpant - storm
Made in New Zealand
L 1 0 0 4 s h e ’s t h e b o m b j a c k e t - b l a c k L4013 tuck de luxe top - tangerine L2008 pipeline trackpant - ocean L1 0 0 6 d o v e r c o a t - g r a p h i t e L5007 sq u a r e d a n c e p i n a f o r e - l a d y g r e y
L1005 easy rider jacket - sand
L4014 torpedo top - indigo
L4014 torpedo top - indigo L2007 cigar pant - sand
L4011 lacey daze shirt - black
apparelmagazine.co.nz L4017 knit cami - sand L3004 sidewinder skirt - black
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MEADOWLARK Meadowlark’s RITUAL collection represents the dark beauty of ceremony and celebration, crafted with contemporary vision. A heightened sense of timelessness, sentimentality and decadence is what elevates this new Meadowlark offering. Ritual pieces are created as symbols of celebration and as tokens of what is truly worth treasuring.
I AM BY ANDREA MOORE Escape into a fantastical world of colours, prints and shapes with Andrea Moore’s latest collection I Am. Wild fluorescents and bold patterns characterise the AW14 collection designed for the youthful I AM urbanite. Swing me jackets and Brixton minis in textured metallic black and neon yellow offer a quirky twist on a modern classic. Merino tunics and sweaters in jewel hues inject a shot of warmth. Andrea Moore has hit the mark with a new metropolitan this winter.
RUBY Inspired by director Sofia Coppola’s cult classics, this collection pays homage to the rebellious and free-spirited youths of the 1968 student riots in Paris. The collection is established with a heavy use of charcoal, grey marle and textured blacks. This is punctuated with hits of mustard yellow and cobalt blue hues. Metallic touches shine throughout the range adding the charming youthful element RUBY is well known for.
AMBER WHITECLIFFE Opening herfirst firststore storeininParnell Parnell Opening her early March, AmberWhitecliffe’s Whitecliffe’s March, Amber new collection collection ‘Candy ‘CandyCoated’ Coated’isis a celebration of all all things thingsgood. good. celebration of Incorporating coloursrepresenting representing Incorporating colours treats such as as peppermints, peppermints,strawberry treats such strawberry liquorice sherbet andsherbet liquoriceand allsorts, allsorts, the collection is fun, the collection is fun, sexy and sexy and sophisticated versatile sophisticated with with versatile garments garments tailored New Zealand that are tailored to to New Zealand weather and lifestyle. lifestyle. weather and
DERYN SCHMIDT
DEADLY PONIES
A photograph takenby bySchmidt’s Schmidt’s photograph taken four-year-old daughterinspired inspiredthis four-year-old daughter this collection ‘Capture latestlatest collection ‘Capture This’ This’ which which has nowtransformed been transformed has now been into theinto the exclusive Deryn Schmidt firstfirst exclusive Deryn Schmidt textile textile print, by Wellington print, by Wellington graphic graphic designer designer Andrea The print Andrea Stark. TheStark. print features on a features a beautiful silkthroughout cotton beautifulon silk cotton fabric fabric throughout Winter range. the Winter range. Athe classically A classically elegant that elegant collection thatcollection is wearable and is wearable and impeccably impeccably finished. Schmidtfinished. proves Schmidt proves thatona classic modernshapes twist that a modern twist on alwaysappeal have afor willclassic alwaysshapes have awill timeless timeless for women of all ages. women ofappeal all ages.
Featuring the beloved Mr Fill N Zip Fur, Mr Pirouette and the incredible new Mr Nebula, the latest collection to debut in Winter is heating up. Two new styles sport the iconic Deadly Ponies V-shaped hallmark while heralding American artist James Turrell and his spherical hoops of coloured light.
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NEW YORK FASHION WEEK
ALEXANDER WANG
ALL SAINTS
JILL SANDER
ALON LIVNÉ
JUAN CARLOS OBANDO
VERA WANG
3.1 PHILLIP LIM
A MAN’S WORLD MAN I feel like, well, a man. New York takes masculine to a new level this season in suits and stripes. Harsh lines, boxed frames and dark eyes make for an androgynous image and revive the tomboy look. It’s not cross-dressing however; so don’t forget to retain a base feminine element, a skirt or a heel.
SATURATED in satin, super shine, a reflection revolution. Fashion week is on high beam and not to be missed. Delicate silks drape over the runways this season, fashionably highvis as flashbulbs bring to light the reflective trend of A/W 15.
ZIMMERMAN
SUPER SHINE
HOT AS MUSTARD
TRACY REESE
RODARTE
SALLY LAPOINTE
MATTHIEU MIRANO
HERVÉ LÉGER
RALPH RUCCI
DEREK LAM
MOVE over Grey, it’s fifty shades of yellow now. New York got a taste of mustard and decided to spread it all over the show. A full-length gown in maize and amber, no subtlety just a golden explosion for 2015.
EITHER everyone watched The Matrix last month or the inner dominatrix within every fashionista is coming to light. Leather, leather, and leather. Anything you can imagine, it’s in leather. Lets hope it’s a cold winter, because things are going to get hot.
KOONHOR
LUXE LEATHER
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window
“The idea of bringing a female touch to something masculine was very interesting to me.” — Nicole Miller on the football helmet she designed in conjunction with the National Football League and Bloomingdale’s.
connect
“Emotions are the new currency. Together we must help the brand travel on the wings of emotion. And it is with the strength of millions of feathers that I thank you.” — Remo Ruffini of Moncler on the company’s successful lPO.
Stay connected to the fashion industry 24/7 with NZ Apparel online.
YSTYLEME
Karen Walker
Araks
Miss: Can be difficult to log into from a desktop computer. Items not clearly categorized by brand and stock varies greatly.
Helmut Lang
Hit: Large international luxury brand selection. Shows photos of items on every side and models to indicate size, gives thorough descriptions.
trendwatch
REEBONZ
“Youth is very important for people’s continued advancement, so anything that is going to help people remain or appear vigorous or dynamic, those products will work.” — Tom Doctoroff of JWT Asia-Pacific, on the Chinese beauty consumer.
Ralph Rucci
the
#couturesneaker
Hit: Affordable prices with the option to shop by current trend. Miss: Sizes are limited to either ‘one-sizefits-all’ or general ‘small/medium/large’ and selection is severely limited.
Mannequin of the
month @
A LITTLE SHOP Hit: Good range of international brands. The option to purchase in Australian dollar is offered. Miss: User interface is plain and the return process is lengthy.
NATALIE CHAN dressed by: Stephie Joustra apparelmagazine.co.nz
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Classifieds
YOU DON’T WANT TO MISS OUT! To subscribe now or renew your subscription simply clip the coupon below and return with your payment, or you can renew online or call us with your details. Credit cards accepted.
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OR n please invoice me at the above address.
n Asia/Pacific $190
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n RoW $210
Fax or Mail to: Apparel Magazine PO Box 37140, Parnell, Auckland, Fax: (09) 377 2794
Terms/Conditions
28 I
1. The annual subscription to NZ Apparel magazine is $88.00 GST incl. for eleven issues. All current paid subscriptions at 1 January 2014 will receive the 2014 NZ Apparel Trade Directory free of charge. February 2. Additional copies of the2014 2014 NZ Apparel Trade Directory are available for purchase. Non subscriber price $88.00, paid subscriber price $45.00 3. GST is included in all quoted prices.
APP 0214 v2.indd 28
apparelmagazine.co.nz
I 28 19/02/14 2:33 PM
• Full service – small or large runs • Quick turnaround times • Specialists in woven
START DATE: August 2010 CONTACT: Pieter Olivier, pieter@reviewmags.co.nz
Office, Factory and Showroom: 6A Henderson Place, Onehunga, Auckland
ow
GUY THORNTON
he complete atisfies the nts of all Makers, from signers to le reducing productivity. n visit om or call:
GARMENT TECHNOLOGY
est.....
Wanted Stock
Emerging designers & boutique owners
For new clothing outlet Designed in New Zealand in Christchurch PH: 09 441 3187, FAx: 09 441 3190 EMAiL: guy@patternmaksamples end of ers.co.nz or liz@patternmakers. w w wco.nz . p uwww.patternmakers.co.nz r f o r m . n e t lines | p h 0 etc 9 579 5566 email robyn or andrea adjj@xtra.co.nz phone 03 3431681
We can provide friendly, helpful and personalised 0508 AGENCY service for all your cutting needs. 0508 243629
arnet Garment Cutting Services www.bma.co.nz
Call Kevin on 579 8002 email arnetkevin@yahoo.com
Book now
contact Sarah
re
09 304 0142 ext 202 or
and
09.indd 31
EMAiL: david @tamarafashions.co.nz
◆ Computerised Markers (Pad System) ◆ Gerber & Lectra compatible ◆ Pattern Making 100% Recyclable ◆ Pattern Grading ◆ Sampling Incredibly Durable ◆ Cutting ◆ Production Runs
6697 6801 7 3821
net
PH 09 377 1678
Providing technical support to the clothing industry for the past 33 years
Sales & Hire
Classifieds
CONTACT dAvid FREEMAN Now To diSCuSS your reQuireMeNTS
Ph 0800 38 0800 Fax 09 636 9379 www.displays.co.nz
sarah@ reviewmags.com
Display your Garments with our Stylish Hangers!
Top quality 100% NZ or European made hangers Wide range of timber, plastic and clip hangers. Fast nationwide delivery. Quality that lasts!
www.wearcare.co.nz 0800 HANGIT MAY 2009 app arel 31
ph. 09 579 5566
Design & Print Textiles Limited For Continuous Screen Printing • Both Apparel & Home Furnishings • Specialist in printing on Merino Wool, Cotton, Cotton Blends and Nylon, knits and woven fabrics.
MAY 2010 app arel
Since 2001
New Zealand Clothing Manufactures
400 23/04/10 11:00 AM Colors always available 23/04/10 11:00 AM For 100% Spun Polyester Sewing Thread • 120 x 5,000m Good Quality • Competitive Price Call us to get free sample
David Import Limited Ph: 09 849 4008 Fax: 09 849 5505
www.design-print.co.nz Ph: 09 2744100 Mobile: 021 466 328 email: sales@design-print.co.nz
Classic Element s
31
47B Onehunga Mall, Onehunga, Auckland Email: davidimportltd@gmail.com
Shopfittings Wall Fixtures
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Fresh new jewellery
and clothing from our in house designs. For wholesale enquiries please contact us: Phone: 09 42 61275 or email sales@classicelements.co.nz or visit www.classicelements.co.nz
by www.surestyle.co.nz
0800 474 358 apparelmagazine.co.nz
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Classifieds
HQ Cutting Classified.pdf
1
14/02/14
1:52 PM
C
M
Y
CM
MY
CY
CMY
K
• Computerised Markers (PAD System) • Garment Specifications • Pattern Making • Pattern Grading • Sampling • Production Cutting • Manufacturing 35N Enterprise Street, Birkenhead, North Shore City 0626, Auckland P.O. Box 34515, Birkenhead, North Shore 0746, Auckland Ph: 0064 - 9 - 418 5071, Mob: 0064 - 21 - 763 187, Fax: 0064 - 9 - 419 6936 Email: brad@patternmakers.co.nz Complete Sampling Service Patternmaking (computerised & manual) Computerised Digitising & Grading (Card or paper patterns) Computerised Marker Making (Compatible with Pad, Gerber Accumark and Lectra) Sample cutting with Fabric Estimates Sample Making Production Runs Production Cutting
Call the team at Ph: (09) 369 9249 or email helenh@hsr.co.nz 21D PORANA RD, WAIRAU VALLEY
Tailor made freight solutions from runway to runway • Customer Service / Order Tracking • Freight Forwarding – Import / Export • Customs Brokerage • Consultancy
• Transport • Warehousing / Distribution • Pick & Pack / Order Fulfilment • Apparel Solutions
Merz & Associates (1992) Ltd
P.O. Box 1167, Shortland Street, Auckland 1140, New Zealand Phone +64 9 255 1330 Fax +64 9 255 1331
Complete Sampling Pattern (computerised Computerised Digitising & (Card or pape Computerised Marker For Continuous Screen Printing (Compatible with Pad, Gerber Accumark a Sample cutting with Fabric Es • Both Apparel & Home Furnishings Sample Producti • Specialist in printing on Merino Wool, Production
Design & Print Textiles Limited
Cotton, Cotton Blends and Nylon, knits and woven fabrics.
www.design-print.co.nz Ph: 09 2744100 Mobile: 021 466 328 email: sales@design-print.co.nz
Call th Ph: (09) 369 9249 or email helenh@ 21D PORANA RD, WAIRA
The Shopfitting Specialists New Zealand’s Largest Range • Garment racks, Hangers, Size dividers • Gridmesh, Basket units, Custom units • Wall systems, Slatpanel & accessories For hire: Garment racks and folding tables.
Complete Sampling Service Patternmaking Shrink and(computerised Security Audit Specialists & manual) Computerised Digitising & Grading Know where your money is going – (Card or paper patterns) prevent shrink loss today Computerised Marker Making (Compatible with Pad, Gerber Accumark and Lectra) Discrete, Non‐Disruptive Service Sample cutting withFast, Fabric Estimates Sample Making Production Runs Production Cutting
Call Now For An Obligation Free Quote
7 Moa Street, Otahuhu, Auckland 1640 Ph: 0800 38 0800 Email: info@displays.co.nz
www.displays.co.nz
30 I February 2014 APP 0214 v2.indd 30
Gary or Alex on (09) 827 0096 / 027 217 9393 or email us at legalagents@translegal.co.nz (Private Investigation License 740091 &, Security Guard Company License 760316) Member of the Licensed Investigators of New Zealand
Call the team at Ph: (09) 369 9249 or email helenh@hsr.co.nz 21D PORANA RD, WAIRAU VALLEY 19/02/14 2:34 PM
Classifieds
KEEN CUTTING Co FRINGE MAKER & BRAID MANUFACTURER NEW ZEALAND
New Zealands only Fringe and Braid manufacturer. Fringe and Braid for all occasions, eg. lampshades, mats, cushions, curtains, furniture trim, banners, umbrellas, bridal cars, limousines, clothing, costumes, show ribbons, arts and crafts.
CONTACT THE FRINGEMAKER
Phone: +64 (0)9 299 9141 Mob: +64 (0)21 063 0903 Fax: +64 (0)9 296 6339 3/11 Walters Road, Takanini, Auckland 2244, New Zealand Email: fringemaker@gmail.com or visit www.fringemaker.co.nz
Automated or manual cutting available. We can organize pattern making, computer grading and marking. Give us a call and see if we can help.
Ph 09 276 8338 or email keencutting@xtra.co.nz 5/91 Huia Road, Otahuhu Auckland 1062
More than just bias binding www.generalproducts.co.nz Contact Philip Tanner philip@generalproducts.co.nz or 09 3735762
Superior Results in half the time Guaranteed!
Garment Pressing, Tunnel Finishing, Pant and Dress Forming, Hang/Tag/Bag, Pick & Pack, Logistics
New Zealand Sales & Demonstrations
0508 Agency 0508 243629 www.bma.co.nz
Contract Press & Die Cutting • Fabric Sample Books • Fusing for Cuffs and Collars • Contract Press Cutting – leather, satin, silk, mylar, plastic, vinyl, card, fusable fabrics, polypropylene, cotton, polyester, inter lining, fire retarded, wool felt, synthetic felt, Kevlar, synthetic fur PLUS more. • Free test cutting and advice.
www.cccutting.co.nz Ph: 09 629 1144
“Supplying you thread since 1988” Terry Apparel Ltd carries a full range of threads and needles for all sewing applications, this being both industrial and domestic. Our portfolio of threads, needles and accessories is always growing to meet the day to day requirements of today’s industry. Private Bag 14935, Panmure, Auckland 1741 24-M Allright Place, Mt Wellington, Auckland, New Zealand Ph (09) 527-7166, Fax (09) 527-7102, email apparel@terrys.co.nz or visit www.terryapparel.co.nz
apparelmagazine.co.nz
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