Escapism - 7 - Toronto, The Adventure Issue

THE ADVENTURE ISSUE

T o r o n t o

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Los Cabos

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Sunshine

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Coast

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Rio de

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Janeiro

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Melbourne

I s s u e

07

F&B Walkerville | Windsor @tommydrinksyqg

Grove Brew House | Kingsville @grovebrewhouse

Sandwich Brewing Co. | Windsor @jaytoner

F&B Walkerville | Windsor @tommydrinksyqg

We’ve been making whisky cocktails since 1857. (even when we weren’t supposed to).

Experience Windsor Essex and come taste our liquid gold Discover more on pages 36-37 or at visitwindsoressex.com/escapism

In 1960, Åke Nordin founded Fjällräven in his basement in the Swedish town of Örnsköldsvik. Since then we have stayed true to our mission of developing timeless, functional and durable outdoor equipment,

acting responsibly towards people, animals and the environment and inspiring more people to discover outdoor life.

Nature is waiting. What are you waiting for?

NATURE IS WAITING What are you waiting for?

fjallraven.ca

Dubrovnik, Croatia

DISCOVER the UNDISCOVERED

While it might be the iconic sights of the world that first entice us to pack our bags for adventure, it’s often the tucked-away towns, lesser-known nooks, and secluded seafronts that beckon us to return. On an undiscovered tour with Globus, we leave behind the crowds and forget about the familiar, trading them for places known only to locals.

MENTION PROMO CODE ESCAPISM100 & SAVE AN ADDITIONAL $200 PER COUPLE ON SELECT 2020 GLOBUS VACATIONS.*

VISIT GLOBUSJOURNEYS.CA TO SEE ALL OF OUR UNDISCOVERED ITINERARIES, CALL US AT 800.268.3636, OR CONTACT YOUR TRAVEL PROFESSIONAL. *Book and deposit a 2020 Globus (excludes Escapes by Globus & 2020 Oberammergau) vacation and save $100 per person off the land price. Must mention Ask & Receive Code ESCAPISM100 at time of booking to receive discount. Must be booked, under deposit and discount applied between August 27 and September 30, 2019 for travel in 2020. Not applicable to groups. Offer is valid with all other Globus promotions currently running and the Welcome Back Credit (if applicable). Applies to new 2020 bookings only and offer will not be applied to pre-existing bookings. Offer reliant on space availability. Full cancellation penalties will apply. Additional restrictions may apply. Offer may be withdrawn at any time. Offer is available from participating GFOB offices only. 3280 Bloor St. W, Centre Tower, Suite 400, Toronto, ON M8X 2X3. TICO#1893755/50015835

TALK TO YOU LATER GET OFF THE GRID IN LIGHTWEIGHT GEAR MADE FOR ADVENTURE Photo: Dylan Gordon

ISSUE 07 • ESCAPISM • 9

EDITOR’S LETTER

CEO AND PUBLISHER

Krista Faist CONTACT

hello@escapism.to

E D I TO R I A L

EDITOR AT LARGE

Suresh Doss ASSOCIATE EDITOR

Jessica Huras STAFF WRITER

Katie Bridges COPY EDITOR

David Ort

DESIGN

ART DIRECTOR

Matthew Hasteley SENIOR DESIGNER

April Tran STUDIO PHOTOGRAPHY

Kailee Mandel COVER PHOTOGRAPHY

Cavan Images

EDITORIAL ASSISTANT

Taylor Newlands EDITORIAL INTERN

Claire Plant CONTRIBUTORS

Andrea Yu Mai Nguyen Karen Stevens

I

F YOU ASK me about road trips, you should be prepared for a lecture. Get set for my superfluous sermon on some of the best driving in countries like Germany, France, Italy and Spain.

One that sticks out in my memory is a last-minute passage down the coast of Spain. We (my wife and I) loaded our rental with basic necessities, with a simple goal in mind: to try and hit every beach between Valencia and Malaga.

With each passing city it felt like a world of hospitality welcomed us. There were many revelations, including that no two beaches are alike in Spain. In Xabia, we were surrounded by rocky headlands as we slipped into a quiet seat with glasses of iced carajillo (coffee with spirits added to it) in hand.

Further south in Calpe, the weather turned on us as we jumped on Jet Skis we’d rented on a whim. Waves thrashed and thunder roared in the distance as we enjoyed an absolutely thrilling ride around Spain’s iconic Penyal d’Ifac.

Having had enough excitement for a day, we checked-into what seemed like a small, unassuming beach hotel in the coastal town of Torrevieja. We woke up to a stunning display on the beach: an endless mosaic of coloured umbrellas tightly packed together. I’ll never forget the short amount of time we spent on that beach. Not a single person spoke English – families prepared feasts for each another and the water was a calm, high-definition reflection of the coastal vista.

In the spirit of being intrepid explorers, we have loaded our Adventure Issue with stories we hope will inspire you. We take you on our favourite road trip routes (pg. 94), whisk you to some of the most beautiful UNESCO sites in the world (pg. 40) and to the mountains of Peru (pg. 48). Cheers to your next adventure!

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CONTENTS

DEPARTURES 15

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EXPERIENCES

In the Frame

22

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Just Landed

24

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The Escapist

26 ◆ In Transit FlyGTA

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32 ◆ Short Stay ◆ Annapolis, Maryland 34 ◆ Long Stay ◆ Los Cabos, Mexico

C OV E R S TO RY

40

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U-Must-Go Sites

From Mexico to Mauritius, this is your globe-spanning guide to the awe-spiring and beautiful UNESCO World Heritage Sites that you should visit right now.

48

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Perusing Peru

We go beyond Machu Picchu and examine ways for travellers to support local artisans and womenrun businesses, and give back to the community on a visit to Peru.

EXCURSIONS 54

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Wine and Dash

A trip up California’s famous coastal highway doesn’t have to be an over-planned ordeal. We hit the road for a spontaneous tour of Sonoma County with Pacific views and plenty of pinot.

61 ◆ Je Ne Sais Québécois

From sky-high views of its fjord to refined dining, we outline why Saguenay deserves a spot on your Quebec list.

73

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The Checklist

79 ◆ Cabana in the Woods

Slip into a kayak and paddle over the horizon and off the grid for five days in British Columbia’s Desolation Sound.

92

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Like a Local

94

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The Selector

98

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Rear View

An autumn escape worthy of the

Winner’s Circle

KentuckyTourism.com

FEEL GOOD HALF NAKED

Our real #swimsuitmodel @michellebeilhartz

Find your perfect fit at Swimco!

Our Fit Experts plus the best styles, it all adds up to your new favourite getaway look.

Get outfitted head to toe at your one-stop vacation shop.

Visit a Swimco near you at one of our 25 locations across Canada or online at swimco.com Women • Men • Kids • Fitness • Plus Sizes • Specialty Swimwear • D Cup & Up

    

DEPARTURES

26 32

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34

15

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In the Frame

24

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The Escapist

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In Transit

Short Stay ◆

Long Stay

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FlyGTA

Annapolis, Maryland Los Cabos, Mexico

E S C A P E

i t ’ s

h u m a n

n a t u r e

The Perfect Playground For World-Class Adventure Welcome to the breathtaking beauty of North Lake Tahoe. A natural wonder loaded with four unique seasons of adventure. Paddleboard, kayak or hike along the Lake’s crystal blue waters then reconnect over a world-class dining experience or live show. With easy access to the Reno-Tahoe International Airport, North Lake Tahoe is the escape you’ve been looking for.

GoTahoeNorth.com/Escapism

IN THE FRAME • DEPARTURES • 15

IN THE FRAME

Jesse Lynch’s Climbing Rock takes us on a journey through diverse landscapes and death-defying heights, all in the name of rock climbing thrills.

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PHOTOGRAPHY

ABOVE: Considered

the birthplace of American sport climbing, Smith Park, Oregon is where you’ll find Churning in the Wake, this incredibly popular route shown being scaled by Lukas Strauss-Wise.

]

HIGHER EXPOSURE CLIMBING ROCK BY JESSE LYNCH In this over-250-page photo book, rock climber Jesse Lynch and photographer Francois Lebeau capture experts taking on some of nature’s most formidable formations.

The stunning photos of monolithic landscapes were shot across North America and feature various ascents, both big and small, in every season. Filled with enthralling images of incredible feats, Climbing Rock takes

ABOVE: Ethan

Pringle climbing Moonlight Buttress, a 1,200-foot-tall wall on the face of Angels Landing in Zion National Park, Utah.

you on a captivating journey, whether you’re an experienced climber yourself or a novice who wants to live vicariously through others (we’ll let you guess which camp we fall in). $67.50 penguinrandomhouse.ca

IN THE FRAME • DEPARTURES • 17

BELOW: After a

day spent scaling Moonlight Buttress, Ethan Pringle and Tiffany Hensley rest on a portaledge.

ABOVE: Jacopo

Larcher is in for a five-day ascent, climbing the 3,000-foot-tall face of El Capitan in Yosemite.

IN THE FRAME • DEPARTURES • 19

BELOW: In El Potrero

Chico, Mexico, dizzying views surround Van Vu as he mounts the precipice of the two-pitch spire, Uber Machismo.

20 • DEPARTURES • IN THE FRAME

ABOVE: To reach the

next ledge on her climb of Skinwalker in Moab, Utah, Sarah Watson must press her face against the sandstone cliff.

JUST LANDED From a museum for Lady Liberty to a pay-to-stay option in space, these are the travel stories we’re watching.

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WHAT’S

NEW

IN

TRAVEL

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LOWER LEVIES IN SRI LANKA The Sri Lankan government has announced that they will be decreasing airline fees to encourage tourism to the island nation. Surcharges associated with embarkation, ground handling and fuel will be reduced at the Colombo airport for six months, encouraging airlines to re-establish flight schedules and lower ticket prices. Following the Easter Sunday attacks, Sri Lanka saw a 57 per cent decrease in tourist visits. Currently, the Canadian government advises to exercise a high degree of caution when visiting the country, but does not warn against all travel.

ABOVE: American

LIGHT AT THE MUSEUM After over three years in development, the Statue of Liberty Museum, which celebrates America’s iconic landmark, opened on May 16, 2019 on Liberty Island. Visits to the new museum open with a short interactive video series that provides a historical overview of the Statue of Liberty’s creation. Visitors can tour gallery spaces to view historical artifacts, including the statue’s original torch from 1886 (which was replaced in the 1980s). It’s also possible to take a virtual tour through the free iOS app, allowing people around the world to engage with the statue’s history from afar.

fundraisers built the plinth and the copper statue was a gift from France with a framework by Gustave Eiffel

SOJOURN BEYOND THE STRATOSPHERE

International Space Station: is operated as a joint project between NASA and the space programmes from Canada, Europe, Russia and Japan.

Space travel doesn’t come cheap. For the first time in U.S. history, NASA will permit private travel to the International Space Station, with tourist missions starting at $50 million per seat, which only covers your flight to the station. The actual stay at the ISS will run you an estimated $35,000 per night. Boeing and Elon Musk’s SpaceX are currently developing the launch systems to make the programme possible. This move reverses NASA’s previous ban on private travel to the space station and will open the ISS up for further commercial opportunities.

JUST LANDED • DEPARTURES • 23

REACH THE BEACH We have good news for Hamiltonians looking for a winter getaway. Starting this December, Sunwing Airlines will fly directly from Hamilton’s John C. Munro International Airport to tropical hotspots like Cuba, Mexico, Jamaica and the Dominican Republic.

The list of the airline’s new flight destinations includes Cayo Coco and Cayo Santa Maria in Cuba as well as the ever popular Cancun airport in Mexico. Sunwing will also continue offering flights to Punta Cana in the Dominican Republic and Montego Bay in Jamaica, which have been popular with Hamiltonians.

PROTECTED PLACES

ABOVE: The Hawa

Clockwise: Lunamarina; Radchuk O.S; Spacex; Ibrahim Rifath; Nestor Pool; Nicholas Santoianni

The UNESCO World Heritage Committee has unveiled the 29 landmarks that will be added to the list of world heritage sites in 2019. There are currently 1,121 entries on the world heritage list (read about some of our favourites on pg. 40). Once a place is recognized by UNESCO, it is legally protected under international treaties. A few of the newly added UNESCO sites include the city of Jaipur in India, the Mounded Tombs of ancient Japan and the ruins of ancient Babylon in Iraq. Eight of American architect Frank Lloyd Wright’s buildings have also been added.

AC ACQUIRES AT After entering into a 30-day negotiation period in May, Transat A.T. (the company that owns Air Transat) has officially accepted Air Canada’s bid to take over the company. Air Canada has said that the two airlines will still remain as separate entities and both the Air Transat and Transat brands

Mahal was built in 1799 from red and pink sandstone and is part of the UNESCOprotected city of Jaipur’s palace

will be maintained (along with Air Canada, Air Canada Rouge and Air Canada Vactions).

The acquisition of Air Transat, especially its fleet of Airbuses, is hoped to help Air Canada boost its leisure travel business.

For travellers, the merger could result in both airlines offering more frequent flights, service to new destinations and greater options for connecting flights.

NEW UNESCO SITES INCLUDE THE CITY OF JAIPUR AND RUINS OF BABYLON IN IRAQ

24 • DEPARTURES • THE ESCAPIST

THE ESCAPIST

Jessica Huras explains why it’s important to get in touch with your adventurous side and push your personal limits when you hit the road.

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ADVENTUROUS

TRAVEL

MAPPING THE APPS Plan your route, avoid delays and keep your tank full with these roadready apps.

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GASBUDDY If your roadtripping takes you through Canada or the U.S., GasBuddy can help you find the cheapest places to fuel up en route – saving you time and money.

S

still feel comfortable: You can avoid talking to strangers, choose restaurants with familiar food and pass on engaging in new activities.

Everyone has the right to explore however they want, but I think if you don’t challenge yourself when you travel, you’re really missing out on what makes the experience so potentially life-changing. Ultimately, I believe most of us want to get out there because we want to be changed by the world around us – and the quickest way to achieve that personal change is to push yourself to do something that scares you.

I’m the first to admit that food is my main motivation to travel, yet my most memorable travel experiences are rarely centred on eating really tasty meals (something that is well within my comfort zone!). Instead, the travel experiences that have a lasting impact on me are the ones that made me most uncomfortable.

So here’s the commitment I make to myself when I travel (and one that I suggest you make to yourself as well): say yes to everything. You might discover you’re braver and more adventurous than you thought. ◆

ROADTRIPPERS This app helps you plan and navigate. You can map out the best destinations to stop and explore, without getting off track from your trip route.

Adrenaline: This hormone quickly improves your mental focus and increases blood flow to the lungs to make fighting (or fleeing) easier.

Holly Mandarich

INCE YOU’RE STARTING to dig into our Adventure Issue, it seems like a good time to reflect on what it means to be an adventurous traveller. At one point, I thought that being adventurous meant completing a solo motorbike trip across Vietnam; or skydiving in New Zealand; or making an overnight trek to the top of a tall, semi-dangerous mountain. The more I travel, however, the more I think that being an adventurous traveller simply means committing to pushing yourself outside your comfort zone when you visit a new place.

For some people that might indeed mean taking on hardcore mountain treks or adrenaline-pumping free falls from 10,000 feet; but for others, it might mean overcoming your fear of heights to go on a hot-air balloon ride, mustering up the courage to haggle over an item at a market or trying a weird-looking new dish you’re not certain you’re going to like (the latter are all things I’ve forced myself to do on various trips).

Leaving your home and going somewhere new in the first place is a good initial step towards overcoming your personal limits, but I also think it’s possible to travel and

WAZE Waze users report traffic updates in real time so you’ll always be in the know on the best routes and shortcuts to avoid annoying delays.

26 • DEPARTURES • FLYGTA

IN TRANSIT

PINOT YOUR RIDE Your ride will be waiting for you as soon as you step off the plane at Niagara District Airport. While standard wine packages include private transportation in a luxury vehicle, guests can upgrade to a limousine for special occasions like bachelorette parties.

Katie Bridges discovers the perks of travelling to Niagara on one of FlyGTA’s eight-seater planes.

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FLYGTA

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GATE E - Z With no official check-in process, we just took a right at the top of Billy Bishop’s escalators and strolled straight into the FlyGTA lounge. The whole trip, from downtown to our window seat, took about 30 minutes, leaving more time for the *hic* delicious wine.

W

NO MEAN RAVINE In the village of St David’s, Ravine Vineyard Estate Winery’s relatively low profile is your gain. The organic and biodynamic winery was initially developed to escape imminent urban development, but has since added award-winning wines and farm-to-table dining.

Patrick Tomasso; FlyGTA

E LOVE TAKING wine tours around Niagara, but there used to be two major sticking points. First, three hours of driving makes tackling it in a single day tricky. And secondly: shotgun not the designated driver.

FlyGTA has come to the rescue, with a fleet of planes to whisk us from downtown’s Billy Bishop Airport to the heart of wine country in a speedy 12 minutes. Zipping across Lake Ontario and enjoying the stunning views of Toronto’s skyline from the perfect vantage point is the added bonus.

Their offerings have evolved into a myriad of packages, including aerial tours, ‘daycations’ and charters overseas. More recently, FlyGTA introduced a route to Muskoka, dropping you at the cottage in just 35 minutes. But we’re most excited about their luxury-packed tours around some of Niagara’s top wineries.

In addition to a spot on their eight-seater plane, guests are ferried between wineries (you get a drink, you get a drink, EVERYBODY gets a drink!) in a luxury vehicle. While the itinerary is flexible, FlyGTA has a few well-trodden routes.

When we flew to Niagara last month, our tour kicked off at the Hare Wine Company, then headed to Reif Estate Winery, before capping off our trip at Ravine Vineyard Estate Winery, where we enjoyed a gourmet lunch in their stunning dining room, overlooking the vineyards.

FlyGTA can cater to the whims of most wine lovers, rolling out the red carpet (literally) for a special event. But even without the bells and whistles, you can’t beat the time you’re saving. With multiple flights throughout the day, you can be back in Toronto in time for dinner – or make it to Niagara in time for sunset. ◆

Extend your stay. Extend your play.

PLAN YOUR FALL ROAD TRIP AT VISITSTRATFORD.CA

28 • DEPARTURES • HOT SHOTS

KATIE BRIDGES IN SAGUENAY, QUEBEC

HOT SHOTS Team escapism shares some of our favourite travel photos from the past few months.

Follow @escapismto on Instagram to see more.

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MEXICO,

QUEBEC,

MARYLAND

I certainly don’t consider myself a keen hiker (unless traipsing around Queen West’s shops counts?), but even I couldn’t deny that the four-kilometre climb to the Notre-Dame-du-Saguenay statue was totally worth it. Once I caught my breath and wolfed down my sandwiches, I looked out over the Saguenay River (pg.

61), in awe at the majestic cliffs hugged by the mist.

]

TAYLOR NEWLANDS IN ANNAPOLIS, MARYLAND On a particularly breezy day in Annapolis (pg. 32), we set sail on a 74-foot schooner. The icy wind might have chilled me to the bone but it also gave us the boost we needed to sail all the way to the Thomas Point Shoal Light. Set 43 feet above the water on a hexagonal screw-pile, it was the only manned lighthouse in the Chesapeake from 1964 to 1986, when it was automated.

JESSICA HURAS IN LOS CABOS, MEXICO I ate a lot of amazing meals during my recent trip to Los Cabos (pg. 34), but it was tough to top the pop-up preview of chef Javier Plascencia’s new restaurant, Semillón. Everything, from the bar to the dining tables, was set outside on this beautiful, green property that felt a world away from the city. The food was fantastic (and especially impressive considering the completely outdoor set-up) and the table settings were straight out of an Anthropologie-fuelled dream.

The hearT Of rum

SpiriT Brand Of The Year 2018 Wine STar aWard Winner rondiplomรกtico.com

HAUTE HIGHWAY HOUSING

ROOM SERVICE

The rooms are a far cry from the dingy carpets and sagging mattresses of your typical roadside motel.

In their place, you’ll find the signature Drake brand of sleek, blonde Scandinavian furnishings and pops of colour, including prints from local artists. Every room has a private patio – whether that’s a rooftopbalcony or a ground-level outdoor space overlooking the street. Guests can make retro-motel memories with Polaroid cameras found in every room. Pets are welcome, though their humans will have to pay a $35/ day housekeeping fee plus a deposit for damages.

From a modern motor inn to an island-based yoga retreat, we check-in on Canadian spots for specialized getaways.

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PEC,

BOWEN

ISLAND,

MUSKOKA

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MODERN-DAY CURES FOR THE MUNCHIES With the Drake Devonshire just over the road, there’s no on-site restaurant. However, guests can tuck into a snack bar service featuring goodies from the Drake Commissary, like hummus, cured meat and pickled vegetables. Free tea and coffee are available every morning in the equally chic common rooms – beautiful time capsules kitted out with knick-knacks and board games. The mini fridge beckons with beers, premade cocktails and wine. Be sure to make a late-night trip to the vending machine, stocked with old-school snacks like Cheezies and recent faves, Squish candy.

DRAKE MOTOR INN Five years after the Drake Devonshire landed in Wellington, the Drake Motor Inn has opened its doors just two minutes down the road, ushering in another great reason to make the two-hour drive east of Toronto. The former Cribs on the Creek Hotel has been transformed into twelve super-chic rooms spread over two buildings. The Motor Inn has tapped into the modern travellers’ needs, doing away with a traditional front desk, in favour of a keyless check-in system. The colourful vibe extends to the exterior artwork which beckons guests driving in. Rooms from $310. thedrake.ca

ABOVE: Clearly, the

Drake set out to catch the eye with the exterior art of their new Motor Inn. Fittingly, the sign lights up at night

ROOM SERVICE • DEPARTURES • 31

DEERHURST RESORT Opened in 1896 and set on 760 acres of lakefront property, Deerhurst Resort is the grand dame of Muskoka hotels. The historic resort recently unveiled its new Lakeside Lodge, a $60 million addition comprised of 150 one-, two- and three-bedroom condos. Although each unit is individually owned, about 100 units are expected to be enrolled in the resort’s guest room rental pool and available for visitor stays. Set within spitting distance of Peninsula Lake, the brightly-decorated condos have full kitchens and many feature big balconies with stunning waterfront views. Rooms from $269. deerhurstresort.com

DEER-LY BELOVED PASTIMES With its nonstop lineup of activities, Deerhurst Resort offers a different experience than your standard Muskoka cottage getaway. The resort’s beautiful private grounds are home to hiking trails, treetop trekking courses, a rock climbing wall, a petting farm, two 18-hole golf courses and multiple tennis courts (and that’s not even naming everything). During the winter, the focus shifts from sunny walks and boat trips to snowshoeing, skating and snowmobiling. The resort has its own sugar shack, and the seasonal maple harvest is incorporated into their on-site restaurant menus. The restaurants also showcase honey, herbs and shiitake mushrooms sourced on the property.

NECTAR YOGA B&B Tucked into a forested valley on Bowen Island, Nectar Yoga B&B is a hip yet relaxing spot for escaping the everyday. Scandinavian style dominates with simple, modern and striking accommodation structures and Instagram-friendly interiors that look plucked out of a design magazine. The B&B attracts a female solo traveller demographic although couples, groups and families are also welcome. Enveloped by swaying alder trees and with a babbling brook nearby, the property will make you feel instantly relaxed. Rooms from $249. nectaryogabnb.ca

NAMASTE AND CHILL With each stay (two-night minimum), guests enjoy three yoga and meditation sessions along with two buffet-style group breakfasts. This helps create a social atmosphere among guests, making Nectar a nice spot for solo travellers that want to connect with others.

Yoga sessions are hosted in a beautiful geodesic dome with a view of the forest, and a nearby trail is great for walking meditations. Daily vegetarian breakfasts are made fresh by an in-house chef and there are plenty of spots to chill out with a book.

ABOVE: Outdoor

pools at Deerhurst are open July to midSeptember

RIGHT: Inside spaces at Bowen Island’s Nectar Yoga Lounge are designed to enhance peaceful contemplation

YOGA SESSIONS ARE HOSTED IN A BEAUTIFUL GEODESIC DOME WITH A RELAXING VIEW OF THE FOREST

SHORT STAY

GETTING THERE

Taylor Newlands discovers the best of Annapolis, a historic and charming city on Maryland’s Chesapeake Bay coast.

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ANNAPOLIS,

MARYLAND

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BY AIR: Flights

from Toronto to Washington or Baltimore (travel to Annapolis from either) are so quick that the plane will land just as you have your seat adjusted. Air Canada flies directly to DCA and BWI a few times per day.

Round-trip fare starts at $300.

GETTING IN:

Annapolis is about an hour drive from either airport.

Or, drive the whole way in just over nine hours.

FEELING CRABBY

Quaint streets lined with charming shops and brightlypainted houses don’t exactly scream adventure, but the less-travelled town of Annapolis, Maryland isn’t exactly a place for play-it-safe tour groups. Right on Chesapeake Bay, the waterfront capital is the perfect jumping-off point for boating excursions of all kinds, from chartered fishing on the bay to weekly high-speed sailing races.

Incredibly fresh seafood abounds in Annapolis. This is the place to try delicacies like soft shell crab, which, if you’ve never tried eating an entire crab (shell and all) before, is an adventure in itself.

BED AND BAY ACCOMODATION

An older crowd might be the main clientele at the Annapolis Waterfront Hotel, but that just equates to thoughtful features like ADA accessible and allergyfriendly accommodations. Thanks to the city’s layout, the Marriot Autograph Collection property is both in the heart of downtown and right on the water. Walk to shops, restaurants and, if you’re interested in learning about the lives of midshipmen, the United States Naval Academy.

Go for a waterfront room to wake up to spectacular views of Chesapeake Bay. They’re east-facing so you can also take in an incredible sunrise if you’re up early enough.

Soft shell crab: Must be harvested from the water within six hours after the crab sheds its old shell. They in season from April to mid-September.

ANNAPOLIS, MARYLAND • DEPARTURES • 33

ALL HANDS ON DECK

Annapolis’s proximity to Chesapeake Bay is its top selling point. Their downtown ends almost abruptly at the bay, making for excellent views from restaurants, and, most importantly, easy access to the water. For a little excitement, book a sailing cruise on the Woodwind – you can help hoist the sales and steer the course.

Bonus: the schooner was the setting for Owen Wilson’s hijinks in the Wedding Crashers. Wednesday nights in summer see a series of races take place in the harbour.

Book a cruise during this time to get in on the action. Or, if you know how to sail, talk your way onto a race crew.

Chesapeake Bay: Has about the same surface area as Jamaica. The bridge near Annapolis is one of only two spans across the massive body of water.

CHESAPEAKE CHOW Go beyond oysters and crabs (or not!) at these Annapolis eating institutions.

WE’VE REACHED PEAK BAY

Rent a car (or charter a boat) and head out to explore the rest of the Upper Chesapeake Bay Loop. Your first stop is Great Frogs Winery, for a tasting flight and snacks in a snazzed-up barn. Maryland’s craft booze scene is on the come-up – pop in at Blackwater Distilling for their Sloop Betty caramel vodka and one of their on-tap cocktails, like the spiked hibiscus tea. Stay at the Brampton Inn, one of the area’s many adorable B&Bs, before exploring the quaint shops of Chestertown. In Havre de Grace, the Concord Point Lighthouse, Decoy Museum and Maritime Museum are tops for sea dogs at heart.

BELOW: Annapolis

City Marina is the jumping off point for some of the city’s onthe-water adventures

CAROL’S CREEK For over 30 years, Carol’s Creek has paired dazzling waterfront views with American fare and fresh seafood. This is the place to try the Maryland specialty, cream of crab soup before moving onto baked oysters and jumbo-lump crab cakes.

EATING AN ENTIRE CRAB (SHELL AND ALL) IS AN ADVENTURE IN ITSELF

IRON ROOSTER This downtown Annapolis restaurant might have lunch and dinner menus, but Iron Rooster’s all-daybreakfast is the real draw. The must-try Roostart is a hot-and-gooey, homemade reinterpretation of a Pop-Tart and Toaster Strudel fusion.

Bob Peterson Photography

GALWAY BAY More than 95 different varieties of Irish whisky line the shelves at the newly renovated Galway Bay. Here, the fresh Chesapeake Bay seafood shares the limelight with classic Irish pub dishes from the Emerald Isle.

LONG STAY

Jessica Huras goes beyond party hardy resorts to discover the outdoorsy side of Los Cabos.

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LOS

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SEE SAN JOSE DEL CABO ART WALK

Get a feel for Los Cabos’s cultural side by joining the San Jose del Cabo Art Walk through the town’s historic Distrito del Arte. Running Thursday evenings from November to June, the programme gives visitors a chance to meet gallery owners and artists and get a better understanding of the area’s multicultural community – you’ll meet artists who grew up around the block and transplants from across the world.

LAND’S END

Land’s End, a rugged promontory set at the southernmost tip of the Baja California Peninsula, is the symbolic meeting point of the Sea of Cortez and the Pacific Ocean. It’s known for its distinctive rock formations, including El Arco (the Arch). A favourite spot for photo ops, you can reach Land’s End under your own steam by kayak or stand-up paddleboard.

Altermatively, skip the workout and hire a water taxi.

TODOS SANTOS

Take a day-trip up the Pacific coast to the pretty town of Todos Santos, which is designated as one of Mexico’s Pueblos Mágicos (Magical Towns). These destinations are recognized for their natural beauty and cultural significance. The town’s colonial centre is lined with 19th-century buildings, many of which now house charming restaurants, galleries and boutiques.

REST MAR DEL CABO

A relaxed ambiance and low-rise buildings set Mar del Cabo apart from Los Cabos’s cookie-cutter resorts.

With whitewashed walls and grounds lined with palm trees and bougainvillea, this boutique hotel’s vibe is Mexico-meets-the-Greek-islands. It’s set midway between Cabo San Lucas and San Jose del Cabo, so it’s a convenient base for exploring Los Cabos.

GRAND VELAS RESORT & SPA LOS CABOS

This sleek, contemporary resort is one of the area’s most luxurious all-inclusive properties. Beautiful Pacific Ocean views catch the eye from almost every corner, from the three dramatic infinity pools to the waterfront bar, Miramar. Rooms are massive, there’s a stunning spa with a water circuit and the restaurants will smash any negative preconceptions you have about all-inclusive resort food.

HOTEL EL GANZO

This ultra-cool, 69-room hotel stands out for its underground recording studio (Ed Sheeran and Damien Rice have used it) and artists-in-residence programme, which sees works displayed in the lobby.

The cool touch applies to the minimalist guest rooms and the hip rooftop infinity pool. The private beach club is a rare area spot for ocean swimming.

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EAT SEMILLÓN

Acclaimed Mexican chef Javier Plascencia is set to open Semillón in fall 2019. The restaurant will be the first to open at Puerto Raíz, a multi-concept, indoor-outdoor space set on 13 acres of lush land. The whole venue is designed to be as sustainable as possible, which means scenic outdoor dining beneath the trees and a farm-totable menu that’s largely sourced from on-site gardens.

Javier Plascencia: The chef from Tijuana is famous for leading the push to create a culinary style called Baja Med, which focusses on ingredients from the area.

HUERTA LOS TAMARINDOS

Like Puerto Raíz, this farm-to-table restaurant allows diners to connect directly with the source of their food.

Located a short drive outside San Jose del Cabo on a former sugar cane ranch, the partly open-air, 19thcentury stone house offers diners sweeping views of its 17-acre organic farm. Dishes, which range from locallyraised, slow-cooked goat to mesquite-baked cauliflower, highlight the region’s natural bounty.

BELOW: At Huerta

Los Tamarindos, guests eat close to the organic farm where the ingredients used to create their meals are harvested

THE RESTAURANT HAS A MEXCALERIA ON SITE, SO THEIR MEZCAL CONCOCTIONS ARE MADE USING SMALL-BATCH BOTTLES

ACRE BAJA

This design-forward restaurant is straight out of Instagram fantasies, set amid plant-filled grounds and decorated with natural materials like wood and stone. The eclectic farm-to-table menu (notice a trend in Los Cabos dining?) spans the globe, ranging from agnolotti pasta to al pastor tofu buns. Try one of the mezcal cocktails with your dinner – the restaurant has a mezcaleria on site, so their mezcal concoctions are made using unusual, small-batch bottles.

the merry wines of windsor Home to North America’s most historically significant winery and some of the prettiest spots to enjoy a glass, Windsor – Canada’s most southern city – should be on every wine connoisseur’s bucket list.

Think of beautiful country roads lined with vineyards overlooking the water, and your mind probably wanders towards California and its seemingly endless wine trails. However, just four hours south of Toronto, in Windsor Essex, sits one of North America’s hottest wine regions.

Though homegrown wine destinations like Niagara-on-the-Lake and the Okanagan Valley in B.C. might get all the attention for

their grapes, Windsor’s wineries have quietly been racking up accolades for its vintages.

Windsor-Essex gained worldwide recognition when 19 of its wineries took home medals at the Finger Lakes International Wine competition in 2018.

Among the winners were Cooper’s Hawk Vineyards, an estate winery that took home awards for its Riesling and sweet rosé, and North 42 Degrees Estate Winery, a 17-acre

vineyard, winery and bistro in the Lake Erie North Shore appellation.

With 18 wineries dotted along the lake, the stunning region is a wine drinker’s paradise; buy an EPIC tasting passport for $25 and enjoy a glass at 11 wineries on the trail. Windsor Essex produces a diverse range of wine, but because of the southern city’s terroir and warmer climate, it’s best known for its Cabernet Franc. This grape

TOURISM WINDSOR ESSEX • PROMOTION • 37

PROMOTION

Tourism Windsor Essex

and many more are showcased at the EPIC Vintage Tasting, held every August, in which the region’s winemakers pull out vintage bottles of their best wines.

While Windsor’s wines have gained attention lately, the area has a long history of wowing the world. Vin Villa, located on Pelee Island, the southernmost point of the country, is the first commercial winery in Canada and arguably its best-kept secret.

The 150-year old winery, located on the largest island in Lake Erie, turned heads in the 1800s when it took home international awards for its wines and introduced a type of Champagne sold under the name L’Empereur. Today, guests can take the 1.5 hour ferry trip over to Pelee Island to discover where winemaking in Canada began

on a tour of historic Vin Villa’s wine cellars.

Feel like switching from grape to grain?

Windsor is the perfect place to down a dram.

The whisky capital of Canada is the home of Hiram Walker, North America’s largest beverage distillery and producer of J.P. Wiser’s. The best way to tackle Windsor’s craft booze boom is to purchase a Barrels, Bottles & Brews Flight Log for $25. Start with an honest lager at Walkerville Brewery, located in a quaint neighbourhood built by Hiram Walker, before exploring the 10 other breweries and distilleries on the tasting trail.

With a new generation of craft brewers and winemakers, there’s never been a better time to raise a glass to Windsor-Essex. ◆ To start planning your wine and whisky wander, go to visitwindsoressex.com/escapism

WINNER 2019 WINERY OF THE YEAR Canada’s only 5 time winner of Winery of the Year Tou r s & Tast i ngs | Concert s & Eve n t s | Sea s o n a l Te rra ce Re st a u ra n t M I S S I O N H I L LW I N E R Y. C O M

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U-MUST-GO WORLD SITES Can’t decide where to go for your next adventure?

We look to UNESCO for inspiration on where to find a ‘wow’-worthy experience abroad.

1,121

Sites in total, across 167 countries

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Sites in Italy and China, tied for most

HE WORLD IS a big, wonderful place and deciding where to go next can feel like a challenging (though exciting!) project. Fortunately, UNESCO has done some of the legwork for you with its list of World Heritage sites: a collection of landmarks around the world that have been chosen for their deep cultural and historical significance to humanity. The World Heritage List features more than 1,000 sites, so we’ve narrowed the list down for you by highlighting our favourites. Some are accessible enough that you could visit next month; while others are once-in-a-lifetime trips that are well worth the journey. >

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Launch of first appeal to protect a site

GG Studios Austria

RIGHT: There are over 5,000 African bush elephants in Serengeti National Park – up considerably from lows in the 1980s

UNESCO BUCKET LIST • EXPERIENCES • 41

> SERENGETI NATIONAL PARK Tanzania The Serengeti ranks as one of the world’s most-famous national parks (see the Ngorongoro Conservation Area in Selector on pg 95), but we think it also deserves top billing as a UNESCO site. One of the oldest ecosystems in existence, the fundamental characteristics of the Serengeti’s vegetation and wildlife have only seen minimal changes over the last million years.

Encompassing 1.5 million hectares of savannah, Serengeti National Park is home to an incredible amount of biodiversity and the largest animal migration in the world.

Every year millions of grazing mammals, including wildebeest, gazelles and zebras, travel a 1,000-kilometre circular route in search of watering holes. The herbivores are followed by their predators – lions, cheetahs, leopards, hyenas and wild dogs.

Visit during June or July – it’s peak dry season and you’ll have the best shot at seeing wildlife, including the migration.

There are a number of tour and safari options to guide you through this natural wonder, but we say spring for a hot-air balloon ride and take in the animal kingdom in all its glory from above.

RANI-KI-VAV

India Though there is no shortage of UNESCO sites on the subcontinent (India has 38), Rani-ki-Vav, located on the banks of the Saraswati River, should be pretty high on your bucket list. What appears to be an underground museum, was actually Also known as built by widowed Bhima I, King Bhimdev I was a raja Queen Udayamati as from the Chaulukya a memorial to King dynasty. His reign Bhimdev I in the 11th saw the defeat of a major invasion and century CE. the construction Rani-ki-Vav (the well-known temples.

Queen’s Stepwell)

RIGHT: Restorations of Rani-ki-Vav were completed in 1987 and it was added to the UNESCO list of World Heritage sites in 2014

was created as a functional and religious structure and is considered to be one of the best and largest examples of the stepwell architecture in Gujarat. The inverted temple, only rediscovered in the 1940s and then excavated and restored in the 1980s, is made up of seven levels of stairs and 500 religious and mythological sculptures.

You’ll need a couple of hours to properly soak in all the intricate carvings, but it’s definitely worth the three-hour drive from Ahmedabad to see one of the world’s most ornate and beautiful wells.

The structure may be over 900 years old, but Rani-ki-Vav continues to inspire modern architects. The Vessel, a new Manhattan landmark made up of 80 landings and 154 interconnected stair flights, is said to be inspired by India’s stepwells.

LE MORNE BRABANT

Mauritius Situated 1,132 km off the coast of Madagascar, Mauritius is an island nation known for its remarkable natural beauty and for being the original home of the dodo bird before its extinction in the 1660s.

One of the most visited sites on the island is Le Morne Brabant peninsula, known for the ‘underwater waterfall’ effect created by sand being driven off a high coastal shelf, which gives the illusion of falling water.

Hiking to the top of the mountain is a must. Beginners will find the majority of the trail easy to climb, although you will eventually reach a sign that warns that only experienced climbers should go beyond that point. You can continue past this sign for a few kilometres without any issues, but you will reach a point where you’ll have to free climb without any support, which is where >

THE INVERTED TEMPLE, RESTORED IN 1987, HAS SEVEN LEVELS OF STAIRS AND 500 RELIGIOUS AND MYTHOLOGICAL SCULPTURES

UNESCO BUCKET LIST • EXPERIENCES • 43

LEOCHEN66

ABOVE: El Castillo is the most recognizable building at Chichen-Itza. Despite its large tourist crowds, the complex is still an active archaeological site

> having climbing experience (or, at the very least, really good balance) definitely comes in handy.

After your climb, we recommend treating yourself to a helicopter tour for some truly sensational overhead views.

CHICHEN-ITZA

Mexico This six-square-kilometre complex of ancient temples, pyramids, arcades and other stone structures is easily the most thoroughly restored and famous Mayan site remaining in Central America. ChichenItza was the heart of the Mayan empire, thriving as a centre for religion and urban

activity from around 300 CE to 925 CE. It offers engaging insight into this remarkable civilization, along with a hint of mystery (the complex was abandoned in the 15th century CE for unknown reasons).

The most iconic structure within the complex (and the photo of it you’ve likely seen most often) is El Castillo. At 25 metres high, it’s the most prominent structure in Chichen-Itza. The stairways running up the four sides of the temple have 91 steps each, which, combined with the platform, add up to the number 365 to represent the number of days in the solar year. The temple is also aligned so a snake-like optical illusion appears on the side of the pyramid on the spring and fall equinoxes. This one is by no means an undiscovered site, so it’s best to visit early in the morning or late in the afternoon to avoid the crowds. There’s also a light show you can catch in the evening (if

you’re into that kind of thing).

HUANGSHAN

China With a peak elevation of 1,864 metres, the famed yellow mountain is one of China’s many wonders. Despite not being one of the country’s tallest mountains, Huangshan’s natural beauty has been the subject of Chinese art, poetry and literature since the eighth century. With its towering granite peaks dotted with bending pine trees and covered by a shroud of mist, there’s a Lotus Peak shares reason why this some of its fame with the other spectacular landscape two pinnacles at is a tourist favourite.

Huangshan. Bright Depending on your Peak tops out at 1,860 metres and climbing ability, you Celestial Peak rings can take either the in at 1,829 metres. western or eastern

UNESCO BUCKET LIST • EXPERIENCES • 45

southern edge, bordering Sudan. The 3,200-year-old temples are as awe-inspiring and otherwordly as the country’s other sites but the remote location makes them feel even more special.

To commemorate his victory over the Hittites at the Battle of Kadesh, Pharaoh Ramses II commissioned both temples, including their intricate carvings. The larger took nearly two decades to complete.

Originally, both temples sat side-by-side on the west bank of the Nile River. In 1967, they were carefully moved to avoid the flooding of the river caused by the building of the Aswan High Dam. This conservation effort was one of the original inspirations for the designation of UNESCO heritage sites.

Both temples are famous for housing age-old paintings and elaborate hieroglyphic carvings. The most striking element of this UNESCO site is the larger temple, which greets guests with four colossal statues that were carved into a mountainside.

MONT-SAINT-MICHEL

trail to reach the summit. The western steps are known for their spectacular views and landmarks like Lotus Peak, while the eastern steps are much easier for beginners.

Even though each hike takes from two to six hours, the views from the summit and from along the trail make it well worth the trek.

After climbing all those stairs on the way up, you can give yourself a break on the way down by taking a cable lift down – the views are jaw-droppingly gorgeous.

ABU SIMBEL TEMPLES

Rebel.Image

Egypt From the Sphinx to the Great Pyramid of Giza, Egypt is home to countless cultural heritage sites that allow us to travel back in time. Arguably two of the most recognizable structures of Egyptian culture and history are the Abu Simbel Temples, located on the shore of Lake Nasser near the country’s

France Breathtaking is how we would describe the stunning vistas surrounding this island commune in Normandy, France. From a distance it would appear as if the eighth century castle is seamlessly floating above the Couesnon River. Nearly 3 million people per year take the pilgrimage to one of France’s most prominent heritage sites, many walking barefoot on the clay sands of the bay to get to the island city. Until recently, guests were at the mercy of tide levels and needed to carefully time their visit to the island. In 2014, a bridge was constructed to help visitors access the island with more ease.

Once inside, the maritime museum gives a great introduction to the island’s surroundings and its rich history going back to the sixth and seventh centuries. Take a walk up along the ramparts to the western

terrace, Terrasse de l’Ouest, where you’ll be rewarded with serene views of coastal Normandy.

If you’re feeling adventurous, put on your hiking shoes and take the cobblestone path to “La Merveille”, the medieval Abbey of Mont Saint-Michel perched 500 feet above sea level. Make your way up floor-by-floor through the cloisters and the church for close encounters with monastic and Gothicstyle architecture going back to the 10th century. Before you leave, walk through the Grand Rue for souvenirs or a bite to eat.

In 1791, the abbey was used as a prison to hold opposers of the French Revolution. The prison was closed and the site was declared a historic monument in 1874.

WEST NORWEGIAN FJORDS

Norway Few things in this world are as epic as a fjord. Characterized by a narrow inlet bordered by dramatic cliffs, they were formed when glaciers retreated, carving out a deep rift that filled with sea water. They’re basically valleys that have levelled up to their ultimate form.

In southwestern Norway, Geirangerfjord and Nærøyfjord are two of the world’s deepest and longest fjords. Reaching 500 metres below sea level and rising 1,400 metres above the Norwegian Sea, they’ve earned their spot on UNESCO’s list of World Heritage sites. Free-flowing rivers and waterfalls decorate the already spectacular crystalline rock walls of the West Norwegian Fjords, which range from 250 metres in width at their most narrow, to 2.5 km at their widest points.

Taking on the West Norwegian fjords solo is not for the faint of heart. For a guided journey, consider taking a sightseeing cruise on either the Geirangerfjord or Nærøyfjord.

But why stop there when you could kayak on the Geirangerfjord, get up close on a fjord >

A SNAKE-LIKE OPTICAL ILLUSION APPEARS ON THE SIDE OF THE PYRAMID ON THE SPRING AND FALL EQUINOXES

46 • EXPERIENCES • UNESCO BUCKET LIST

RIGHT: Cotton is the principal crop from the area near the Pamukkale travertines. Its name refers to its resemblance to a textile castle

> safari by rigid inflatable boat or hike up to Skageflå, an abandoned mountain farm with incredible views?

THE KREMLIN AND RED SQUARE

Russia Together, the Kremlin and Red Square form what is easily Russia’s most recognizable landmark, shiver-inducing for both its architectural beauty and associations with Russia’s rich (and often sinister) history.

Originally erected as a wooden fort in the 12th century, the Kremlin has been the centre of Russia’s power for hundreds of years and remains the official residence of the President of Russia.

The Kremlin’s Cathedral Square is home to the city’s most important churches, including the Assumption Cathedral, which once hosted the coronations and weddings of princes, tsars and emperors; and the Cathedral of the Archangel which is The onion-topped the burial site of many spires of St. Basil’s Cathedral were Russian rulers. meant to resemble a Red Square is east bonfire jumping into of the Kremlin and the sky. During the Cold War its image surrounded by the was often conflated red wall after which with the Kremlin. it’s named. Here, you’ll find yet more significant and beautiful buildings, including the 16th-century St. Basil’s Cathedral, one of Russia’s most stunning Orthodox monuments. The square looks particularly spellbinding at night when it’s illuminated by floodlights.

HIERAPOLIS-PAMUKKALE

its dream location adjacent to Hierapolis, an ancient city located on hot springs that’s been used as a spa since the second century BCE. Explore the amazingly wellpreserved amphitheatre, Temple of Apollo and necropolis in this ancient Greco-Roman city before soaking your tired muscles in Cleopatra’s pool; a thermal bath (at 36 C) fed by the same hot springs as Pamukkale that’s surrounded by a lush garden. ◆

IT’S FAMOUS FOR ITS TRAVERTINE TERRACES, BEAUTIFUL, TIERED LIMESTONE FORMATIONS DEPOSITED BY MINERAL SPRINGS

Pavel Kosolapov

Turkey Listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1988, Hierapolis-Pamukkale is a natural site located in Denizli, a city found in southwestern Turkey. The site is famous for its travertine terraces, which are flabbergastingly beautiful tiered limestone formations deposited by mineral springs.

Featuring white waterfalls that appear to be almost frozen in time, it’s easy to see

how Pamukkale got its name, which means “cotton castle” in Turkish. So long as you remove your shoes, you’ll be granted full access to these calcium cliff bathing pools – just watch out for the guards who’ll blow whistles at you if you don’t play by the rules.

While other travertine terraces exist around the world (the U.S., Guatemala and Iran have their own versions of this geological wonder), Pamukkale is unique for

[

CCACCACCOLLO,

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PERU PERUSING Mai Nguyen lays out a plan for skipping Machu Picchu and instead finding ways to support local artisans and womenrun businesses outside the big Peruvian destinations.

1420 CE

The Incas took over the Sacred Valley

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Quechua women work as weavers

DOES THIS LOOK good on me?” I ask a fellow traveller.

I’m draped in a luxuriously soft scarf made of local alpaca wool, but I can’t decide if I want to get the pink and black diamond-patterned scarf or the purple one with three teal stripes going down the middle. I count the Peruvian sol in my wallet to see if I have enough to buy both but I don’t. I have to pick just one.

I’m at a market in Ccaccaccollo, a small village in the Sacred Valley of Peru, and there are hundreds of alpaca garments here. There are sweaters for babies, scarves for men and socks for all sizes of feet. If shoppers aren’t convinced of the material’s authenticity, all >

24 km

Distance to Cusco from Ccaccaccollo

Words by MAI NGUYEN Oana Dragan

RIGHT: Weaving is a communal activity here, both to make it easier to share materials and equipment but also for the social benefit of working together

CCACCACCOLLO, PERU • EXPERIENCES • 49

> they have to do is look left to see several alpacas casually roaming the grounds with bright yarn tassels dangling from their ears.

If the free-range alpacas didn’t already give it away, this is not your typical market.

As soon as we step off the bus, we are greeted by a cheerful mass of women who embrace us with a kiss on each cheek. They are wearing long black skirts embroidered with floral patterns, bright red cardigans over ruffled blouses and braided pigtails underneath round mauve hats.

Some of the children grab our hands and lead us to the market. We’ve been here a few minutes but this place already feels a world away from Lima where we were the day before. There’s nothing but Andean mountains all around us and Cusco, the region’s bustling capital, is 24 kilometres away. For a market it feels very intimate, like you’re in somebody’s backyard, and the only travellers are the people I came with.

Most tourists typically skip this quiet slice of Peru and go straight to the Incan ruins of Machu Picchu, located 128 kilometres west of here. Not us. I’m travelling with Planeterra Foundation, a non-profit organization established by the Torontobased travel company G Adventures. They’ve taken us off the beaten path to show us this little-known village where roughly 60 Quechua women have revitalized a 500-yearold Incan weaving technique that came very close to extinction.

After Peru’s guerrilla war ended in the 1990s, an influx of tourists began flocking to Machu Picchu and the surrounding areas.

Certain communities like Urubamba and Ollantaytambo prospered while those not situated along the tourist route were shut out from the lucrative tourism industry.

As visitors to Machu Picchu soared from 95,000 people in 1992 to 1.1 million in 2012, Ccaccaccollo barely enjoyed any of the associated revenue. As a result, residents were forced to go where the tourist dollars

Economic problems and social tensions throughout the 1980s in Peru contributed to the emergence of a guerrilla movement called the Shining Path and a rise in organized violence in the country.

were, leaving behind their village and the ancient traditions they grew up with.

In 2005, Planeterra sought to redistribute the tourismgenerated wealth by kick-starting the Women’s Weaving

AS VISITORS TO MACHU PICCHU SOARED FROM 95,000 TO 1.1 MILLION, CCACCACCOLLO BARELY ENJOYED ANY OF THE REVENUE

Co-op in Ccaccaccollo. Indigenous families were able to return to their village, relearn old weaving techniques, and sell alpaca garments to tourists who visit the village as part of G Adventures’ Sacred Valley Tour.

The village welcomes about 1,000 visitors a year, generating income for its Indigenous families and empowering the women who make the clothing. Before the co-op existed, some of the Quechua women had never held money in their hands before, relying instead on the exchange of agricultural goods to purchase day-to-day necessities. Thanks to the co-op, they’re financially self-sufficient.

“With the money that I am making, I am able to send my child to university,” says Igidia Huanca Qquerar.

Heartwarming stories like these are

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LEFT: The weavers’ co-op in Ccaccaccollo has revived the once-nearly-extinct techniques for weaving garments from local alpaca wool

preserved forever,” says Joel Callanaupa, a Planeterra project manager.

The co-op is proof that if done properly, tourism can be used to distribute wealth to places that need it the most and not just to the obvious players such as hotels, tour operators, and travel agents.

Luckily, there were plenty more ways for us to responsibly spend our money.

Our next stop was the Parwa Community Restaurant, another social enterprise that was established by Planeterra in 2014. It’s nestled in the rural community of Huchuy Qosqo in the Sacred Valley. The restaurant is surrounded by lush gardens and emeraldgreen mountains. Roughly 65 Indigenous families call this area home and nearly every one of them has been trained to work at the restaurant, building skills from scratch in everything from cooking and serving to accounting and management. Employees also get insurance and monthly salaries and profits from the restaurant go back into the community. In fact, enough money was made from the restaurant that they were able to build a computer centre for children, open up a community garden and buy containers of clean water for every family.

Once you taste the Peruvian dishes on offer, it’s easy to see how they’ve been so > The Sacred Valley, also known as Urubamba Valley, is located in the Andes region of Peru, about 20 kilometres from Cusco. The destination is best known as the home of Machu Picchu.

Oana Dragan

enough to make everyone whip out their wallets, but the quality of the clothing has just as much to do with the brisk sales. We are led through every step of the process, and it is like something out of a crafter’s dream. There are baskets of raw alpaca wool everywhere. In the middle of the grounds, a handful of women sit on the grass under a straw-roofed hut with their legs splayed out as their hands entwine multi-coloured threads. Off to one side, elders supervise young girls as they spin fibres into a fine yarn using the weight of a drop spindle.

In another area, balls of alpaca wool are boiling in steaming pots of bright red dye.

I find out it’s not mass-produced acid dye they’re using. Instead, the red colouring comes from cochineal, a small insect that

has been dried in the sun and grounded to a fine powder. With these bugs, the Quechua women are able to achieve a wide range of shades, from cherry red to bubble gum pink to royal purple. Throw in a splash of lime and the cochineal-dyed yarn can magically morph into the colour of a pumpkin. The women are able to create nearly every shade of the rainbow by making use of what grows in their garden, such as ch’illca leaves for green, tara bean pods for blue, and q’olle flowers for yellow.

It takes several weeks to make one scarf by hand whereas a machine could get the job done in a matter of days. So why do it the long way? “They want to keep their ancient knowledge of textiles alive and pass it down to young generations so it can be

GETTING THERE Air Canada offers several non-stop flights from Toronto to Lima each week. G Adventures offers numerous different tours in Peru that include excursions in the Sacred Valley and visits to Planterra Foundation projects. aircanada.ca; gadventures.com

52 • EXPERIENCES • CCACCACCOLLO, PERU

ABOVE: In Pampallacta, tea made from blends of hand-harvested herbs is the product that helps bring revenue for local, women-run enterprises

couple of coins that barely add up to one Canadian dollar. But I don’t feel bad about it. Unlike previous trips where I’m ridden with guilt over all the shopping I’ve done, I feel good coming home with an empty wallet because I know my money has been well spent on women-run enterprises.

On the flight back, I wrap myself in the pink alpaca scarf that I had purchased in Ccaccaccollo and get ready to doze off until I notice a piece of tape stuck to the soft fibres. The name of the weaver is written in blue ink: Juliana. With the scarf shrouding me in warmth, I sleep soundly the whole way home. ◆ Stretching along the western coast of South America, the Andes are the longest continental mountain range in the world and the home of many ancient Inca sites.

WITH THESE BUGS, THE QUECHUA WOMEN ARE ABLE TO ACHIEVE A RANGE OF SHADES, FROM CHERRY RED TO ROYAL PURPLE

Oana Dragan

> successful. One by one, our table filled up with warm tamales accompanied by fresh salsa, a fried-rice-inspired dish made with sautéed quinoa, and a strawberryinfused gelatinous pudding. The food was so flavourful I had to compliment the head chef, Rocío Quispe Machaca, who I found in the kitchen washing up some pots. “My life has changed through this project. Before this, I was making enough to just get by.

Now I am able to send my children to school and live in a nice house,” she said.

Machaca is among the 35 women who have been trained to work at the restaurant.

Before Parwa was built, many of them struggled to find non-agricultural work much less leadership roles. Now, they’re earning an income and finally benefiting from all the tourists that visit the area.

If you’ve got a big appetite, Parwa Restaurant is a great place to make a difference with your dollars. There’s even a small shop right outside the restaurant that

sells herbal tea made from medicinal plants that have been hand-picked and packed by a group of 12 women from Parque de la Papa (translation: Potato Park) in the Pampallacta community of Peru.

This is where I found myself after finishing my dessert and in desperate need of a post-meal walk. The sun had just gone down and there were barely any lights in the shop, so I used the flashlight on my iPhone to check out the goods. They had a variety of tea to choose from, some I’ve never even heard of before like muña, which is a mint-like herb that grows in the Andes and is commonly used as a digestive tonic.

I purchase a couple of boxes and pray it’s something I’m allowed to bring back to Canada. Luckily, it was.

At the end of the trip, I check how much Peruvian sol I have left. There’s only a

A MODERN WINE born from Tuscan tradition

MODUS SUPER TUSCAN

90 POINTS Modus 2015 • Wine Spectator O C TO B E R 3 1 , 2 01 8

Please enjoy our wines responsibly. © 2019 Ruffino Import Company, Rutherford, CA

SONOMA COUNTY, CALIFORNIA • EXPERIENCES • 55

Words by KAREN STEVENS Kenishirotie

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SONOMA

COUNTY,

CALIFORNIA

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WINE AND DASH A trip up California’s famous coastal highway doesn’t have to be an over-planned ordeal. Karen Stevens hits the road for a spontaneous tour of Pacific views and plenty of pinot.

1,061 km

Total length of the California State Route 1

4 months When harbour seals are on the beach

50

Wineries in the Russian River Valley

LEFT: When it isn’t surrounded by fog, the Point Reyes Lighthouse is a popular spot for whale watchers trying to spot gray whales

S

OME PEOPLE METICULOUSLY plan their itineraries before getting on a plane, doing careful research before settling on stops, meals and accommodation. This is not a story about those kinds of people. Instead, three old friends from publishing school pile into a car and go where the wind takes them, up the coast of California. Our goals are simple: see seals, drink wine and enjoy the view from the winding coastal route #1.

The three of us had met while studying in Ontario a decade ago. My two friends are now writers for a tech company in California, and we had been talking for some time about driving up the coast of their new home turf. Finding the right time >

> had proved difficult, however, since I had been tied up in a contract with an uncertain end date. When my “final” day of work was set, I immediately booked my flight to San Francisco. Then came the wrench in the plan: My contract ended up running longer than expected. So instead of planning in the days leading up to the trip, I spent all my time frantically working. By the time I finally arrive in San Francisco, all that the three of us have is a spur-of-the-moment hotel reservation (the Jenner Inn), a mode of transportation (a Subaru Impreza with a full

BELOW: The northern elephant seal is the much larger cousin of the harbour seal. Adult males can weigh above 2,000 kilograms

tank of gas) and Google Maps for navigation.

The night before we set out, we decide to make Point Reyes National Seashore our end point. It seems to have a bevy of attractions – a lighthouse, beautiful cliffs and biodiversity – and it’s close to the Jenner Inn. The city is totally obscured by fog when we set out the next morning.

However, once we cross the Golden Gate Bridge the inclement weather lifts like As a national a curtain to reveal seashore, the U.S. National Park dazzlingly green hills Service maintains soaked in glorious the preserve in golden sunlight – the Marin County where all development has road trip is off to a been prohibited great start. since 1964.

We set our first

stop as the charming small town of Point Reyes Station. At the Palace Market, we stock up on snacks and some Gravol (“Dramamine” in America) for the winding coastal roads that lie ahead. It’s here that we discover a sweet secret: If you walk to the deli counter at the back of the store you can order farm-fresh buffalo milk gelato. This creamy indulgence is made by Double 8 Dairy in Petaluma, one of only two producers in California that craft the frozen treat from water buffalo milk.

After eating more than our fill, we set our GPS for Point Reyes National Seashore, a 70,000-acre preserve that’s home to more than 1500 species of plants and animals, including Douglas fir, elk and, of course, seals. Minutes after we leave the sun-

SONOMA COUNTY, CALIFORNIA • EXPERIENCES • 57

Enrique Aguirre

drenched town, we enter a thick fog. If we had been driving on a clear day, my friend explains, we’d have been able to see long stretches of dramatic sandstone cliffs along the shoreline. Fortunately, the foggy weather is beautiful in its own way, creating a moody, secluded atmosphere for our drive. As we get closer to the sea we start to ascend sand bluffs topped with tufts of tall grass.

We stop at Drakes Beach in hopes of spotting some seals. A big benefit of the cloudy weather is that the beach is virtually deserted. I’m just about to complain that there’s no sign of our rolly polly friends, when a slightly darker patch of sand suddenly rolls over in front of us.

Once we had caught sight of this first seal, we were suddenly able to make out groups

THE NIGHTLIFE IN THIS TOWN IS A LITTLE MORE EXCITING THAN JUST THROWING BACK BEERS AT THE LOCAL BAR of blubbery bodies across the whole beach, all perfectly camouflaged to blend in with the sand. Seals come up on land to warm themselves and stretch out – like fat cats lounging in patches of sun.

We listen to the crashing of the waves, watch seabirds soar across the slate grey sky and admire the seals in blissful repose before continuing on to Jenner.

Our last-minute hotel selection, the Jenner Inn, turns out to be a great place to stay: The decor is rustic, the rooms are large and the location – right where the Russian River meets the Pacific – is unbeatable.

We start the next day’s adventures in Guerneville, which is located about a 25-minute drive inland from Jenner.

Positioned along the shores of the Russian River, it’s the largest of the villages in the Sonoma Valley. It’s hard to miss the rainbow flags hanging from lamp posts as you drive through town. Guerneville has been a destination for LGBTQ-friendly vacations since the 1970s, when an entrepreneur opened up the first hotel in the area that catered to gay clientele. Business blossomed from there, and these days the small town has everything: excellent restaurants, proximity to nature and a chapter of local drag queens, the Russian River Sisters of Perpetual Indulgence, who run fundraisers and events in the community.

As we enter the town, we stumble across a garage sale. Amidst the tchotchkes and old dinnerware sprawled out over the driveway are several colourful costumes – I get the feeling that the nightlife in this town is a little more exciting than just throwing back beers at the local bar. The couple hosting the sale are happy to indulge our touristy questions. Still without a real plan, we ask them for recommendations for “unpretentious wineries” and they recommend a few places nearby.

Before the wine, however, we need to carb-load. So it’s off to Big Bottom Market to try its famous biscuits, which are so

delicious they made the list of Oprah Favorite Things. Oprah didn’t lead us astray: The fluffy buttermilk biscuits – cut in half to sandwich a filling of rich mascarpone and drizzled with honey – are total perfection.

The winding roads of the Russian River Valley take us past verdant vineyards and farms framed by mountains. There are more than 50 wineries in this special American Viticultural Area (AVA), which is known for its chardonnay and old vine zinfandel – but for me, this trip is all about trying the region’s famous pinot noir.

Our first winery is Arista Winery, one of the top recommendations from our garage sale friends. Pulling up to the obscenely gorgeous property with its meticulous lawns trimmed with lush, flower-filled gardens, we couldn’t help but ask “Do we belong here?”

It turns out that the answer to that question is “no” – because we hadn’t booked a tasting ahead of time. However, one staff member takes pity on we three thirsty Canadians. He leads us to the patio and brings us each a glass of the estate’s Russian River Valley Pinot Noir, which he describes with phrases like “black cherry” and “notes of damp earth.” Arista makes minimal intervention wine, which means they try to produce their vintages as organically and sustainably as possible. Whatever their methods, this pinot noir is hands-down one of the best I’ve ever tasted.

But of course, we need to compare vintages, so after we finish our wine, we drive to the couple’s second recommendation: Landmark Vineyards, a picturesque winery with an outdoor seating area. The staff there advise us that because Winemaking is so there are three of us, well-established in Sonoma that it’s much cheaper to some wineries have buy a whole bottle grapevines from and enjoy it on the before the phylloxera outbreaks that property rather than wiped-out European opting for the tasting vines in 1870s. experience at $30 a >

58 • EXPERIENCES • SONOMA COUNTY, CALIFORNIA

GETTING THERE Air Canada has non-stop flights to SFO every day starting from around $650, round trip. With a stop – e.g., in Calgary or Vancouver – other options (including WestJet) open up and the cost drops to $500 for the round-trip journey. aircanada.com; westjet.com

ABOVE: With the Mayacamas Mountains in the background and a bring-your-own-food policy, Landmark Vineyards is a great picnic spot

> pop. Since one of us has to be the designated driver, it’s up to two of us to down the bulk of the Grand Detour Pinot Noir (2016) we select. The smooth wine goes down easy and one hour turns into two as we reminisce about our school days, (two of us perhaps laughing a little louder than the other) while watching the birds on the pond.

We really don’t need to drink any more after that, but since we haven’t sipped any sparkling wine so far, we decide to stop by

Korbel Winery, an impressive-looking estate we had passed on our way in. Established in 1882, this Russian River institution is housed in an ivy-covered brick building that I mentally dub a “wine castle.” We pick up some mini 187ml bottles of bubbles that are the perfect size for a picnic (or to take back over the border), marvel at the massive tap room and hit the road once again.

We return to Guerneville for dinner at Boon Eat + Drink, an offshoot of the popular Boon Hotel by owner/chef Crista Luedtke.

We arrive at about 7 p.m. and get a table without a problem, but soon afterwards the restaurant fills to the brim with people eager to try its creative menu stacked with local

Landmark Vineyards

“I RESPECT YOU,” I SAID TO THE OCEAN FROM A SAFE DISTANCE AS MY FRIENDS LAUGH

produce, sustainable meat and a selection of regional beer and wine.

We wake up early on our last day to visit our final stop, Goat Rock Beach, which we had spotted from our hotel room window. If you’ve ever wanted to feel completely in awe of nature, this is the place to go. Here, the surf booms as it pounds relentlessly against the shore, and the enormous Goat Rock itself, spraying a fine mist. This is one of the most dangerous beaches in California: The undertow is strong and occasional waves reach into dry land to sweep unwitting tourists out to sea.

There are a lot of signs warning visitors to keep back from the dangerous shore, but we manage to get a bit too close anyway. All of a sudden, we hear a blast from a loudspeaker: Park officials are alerting us to stay back from the ocean. Their warnings must be loud, but we can barely hear them over the roar of the sea. We dutifully step back from the surf, as instructed. As a land-locked Ontarian, watching water with this much raw power is a humbling experience. “I respect you,” I say to the ocean, from a safe distance, as my friends laugh at me.

The wind seems to be as forceful as the waves, coming in off the ocean with a strength that whips our hair around, knocks off our hats and plasters our clothes to our bodies. (I’m tempted to grab my umbrella to see if I can catch some air, Mary Poppinsstyle.) We watch the waves roll in for a while, each of us standing a little apart from one other, contemplating the beauty of the sea and enjoying the solitude. Then we stand up, brush off the coating of fine sand that the wind has wrapped around us and walk slowly back to the car to start the journey back to San Francisco. ◆

SIMI SONOMA COUNTY CHARDONNAY 2017 Available in LCBO Vintages August 17th

Please enjoy our wines responsibly. © 2019 SIMI Winery, Geyserville, CA

SAGUENAY, QUEBEC • EXPERIENCES • 61

[

SAGUENAY,

QUEBEC

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JE NE SAIS QUÉBÉCOIS Katie Bridges finds outdoor adventure close to home in Saguenay Lac-Saint-Jean, a rugged, lesser-visited region of central Quebec.

3

Boroughs make up the area

Words by KATIE BRIDGES

211 km

Distance from Quebec City

1676

Chicoutimi was settled for fur trading

BELOW: For both its historical attachment to water-driven industry and present-day tourism, rugged beauty has always defined the Saguenay

Saguenay Tourism

DO SAGUENAY FJORD NATIONAL PARK

With options to camp, kayak and ski, you could easily spend a week here – but even three or four hours is enough time to get a feel for the splendour of the Saguenay Fjord.

Hike the famous statue trail, a 3.8-kilometre traipse up wooden steps and rocks to the 35-foot-tall Virgin Mary, where you’ll be rewarded with spectacular views, thousands of feet above the fjord. Another great way to explore the park is from (surprise, surprise) the water. Take a cruise to the heart of the Saguenay-St. Lawrence Marine Park and keep your eyes peeled for beluga whales.

PARC DE LA CAVERNE TROU DE LA FÉE

Trou de la Fée, or ‘fairy’s cave,’ offers a number of outdoorsy pursuits to whet adventurer’s whistles. Try caving, ziplining or simply take a hike (make sure you wear appropriate footwear as the ground can be a little uneven). Cross the suspended bridges over raging rapids and, if you’re feeling energetic, follow the Trois Cascades extension for a loop of three falls. In addition to the Métabetchouane River and the stunning surrounding landscape, visitors will find plenty of wildlife inside at this natural wonder – Trou de la Fée is the only protected natural bat cave in Quebec.

LA PULPERIE

Once the largest pulp mill in Canada, La Pulperie de Chicoutimi supplied the paper for the New York Times in the 1920s. In addition to tours of the historic mill, guests can also explore the grounds, which feature a hydro-electric station. The museum also has a number of permanent exhibitions, like the house of Arthur Villeneuve, a local barberturned-painter. Every inch of his home, moved in one piece inside La Pulperie after his death, was decorated by the Québécois painter with bright murals.

SAGUENAY, QUEBEC • EXPERIENCES • 63

BELOW: The suspension bridge over the fjord is part of the via ferrata, a course that blends hiking and mountain climbing

STAY HOTEL CHICOUTIMI

Those flying into Saguenay-Bagotville Airport will likely spend a little time in Chicoutimi, Saguenay’s most populous borough. Whether you’re using it as a jumping-off point for the fjord or timing your trip to coincide with the Saguenay Wine Festival, this downtown hotel overlooking the Saguenay River is a good spot to lay your head. Rooms come with original hardwood floors and local artwork.

Plus, when you book online, you’ll receive a complimentary breakfast.

Rooms from $133, hotelchicoutimi.qc.ca

VAL JALBERT

If you’re looking for a room with a little history (and a side of spook), Val Jalbert promises a night unlike any other.

Founded in 1901 and abandoned in 1927 after the abrupt closure of its pulp mill, the village has since become one of the best-preserved ghost towns in Canada.

Though many of the buildings have slid into charming disarray, period houses and the old general store have been restored so you can stay overnight in contemporary comfort. Take a 1920s-style trolley-bus to the Ouiatchouan Falls (higher than Niagara Falls) and ride the cable car up to the glass platform for views of the village.

Rooms from $254. valjalbert.com

CHALETS SUR LE FJORD

Not ready to bid the Saguenay Fjord adieu?

Stay a little longer in L’Anse-Saint-Jean at these spacious chalets with pictureperfect views of the fjord overlooking the marina. A perfect hotel alternative for active adventurers looking to spend most of their time outdoors, the site provides a base camp for the many hiking trails in the surrounding area. Or book a tour with one of the experienced guides at nearby Fjord en Kayak. The chalets are within walking distance of a few great eateries, including La Cabane à Glaces, a sundae shop serving a mix of sorbet, ice cream sandwiches and vegan scoops in unusual flavours.

Rooms from $108. chalets-sur-le-fjord.com

SAGUENAY, QUEBEC • EXPERIENCES • 65

BELOW: A far cry from its rustic surroundings, the accommodations at Val Jalbert are elegantly updated and comfortable

GETTING THERE Saguenay-Bagotville is the closest airport for getting to the Saguenay region. The three-and-a-half-hour flights are around $550 return with one quick change at Montreal’s Pierre Elliott Trudeau International Airport.

Alternatively, fly directly into Quebec City (one-and-half hours) for around $500 return and spend time exploring the historic city before making the two-hour drive to Saguenay.

66 • EXPERIENCES • SAGUENAY, QUEBEC

ABOVE: Chicoutimi’s Bistro Café Summun’s menu sits at the juncture between comfort and chefdriven luxury

EAT LA GRANGE AUX HIBOUX

If live music and stunning views of the fjord aren’t enough to keep you occupied, Chez Montagner offers a satisfying menu that pans from pizza to confit duck. Frédérick Montagner, a restaurateur from Quebec City, recently moved to L’Anse-Saint-Jean to open this waterfront spot, peppering the menu with plenty of local flavour. For a true celebration of Québécois cuisine, order the famous tourtière du Lac-SaintJean, a regional version of the slow-cooked, deep-dish pie, made with a variety of meat and potatoes. Refuel with Chez Montagner’s take on the classic, which uses red wine from Domaine St Jacques in southern Quebec.

BISTRO CAFÉ SUMMUM

Located at the bottom of the hill on Rue Racine, this bistro in Chicoutimi gives diners the option of eating inside in the industrialchic restaurant or outside on their sunlit patio. Offering creative cocktails made with booze and flavoured gelato, to light bites and more substantial dishes like lobster roll brioche, you’re sure to find something that hits the spot. Bistro Café Summum is also the perfect place to try Quebec’s gooiest, most crave-worthy (if potentially arteryclogging) cuisine. Order the smoked meat over poutine, which piles bison meat and veal-stock gravy over hand-cut fries and squeaky, white cheese curds. ◆

Saguenay Tourism

This hotel and restaurant in La Baie area, built in the 19th century, offers an idyllic setting that’s still in the heart of all of Saguenay Lac-St-Jean’s attractions. Pull up a pew on the terrace overlooking the fjord and tuck into brunch, lunch or dinner at this cozy spot. Chef Vincent Otis serves a mix of international and French cuisine, with a focus on local products and regional flair.

Try decadent Gallic options like snail puffed pastry, veal and foie gras, or seafood like tuna and California salmon steak.

CHEZ MONTAGNER

Globus trotting Go beyond the standard travel experience and get off-the-beaten path with Globus’ unique itineraries.

Let’s face it: Exploring a new destination is exciting, but the extensive planning needed to make your perfect trip a reality can feel downright taxing. Fortunately, the team at Globus are experts in planning dream vacations. They’ve specialized in organizing trips to some of the world’s most compelling destinations for over 90 years.

When you travel with Globus, the tedious research, reservations and logistics are all

taken care of, so you’re free to focus on the fun parts of travel.

Not only does Globus handle all the details for you, but you can count on one-ofa-kind itineraries that take you beyond the tourist crowds to experience destinations in a more meaningful way. You can expect expert guides with an in-depth knowledge of their cities and countries; centrally-located accommodation; and VIP treatment that

sees you skipping long lines and gaining access to places other tourists aren’t allowed to visit. Globus also includes free time in your itinerary, so you have the opportunity to relax (it is a vacation, after all!) or do a little independent exploring.

Globus’ Undiscovered tours are perfect for travellers looking to get off-the-beatenpath or see a familiar destination in a new light. Their Undiscovered Italy tours take

GLOBUS ESCORTED TOURS • PROMOTION • 69

PROMOTION

Oleg Voronische ; Globus; Duncan Cook Drummond; Matera; Globus

you beyond the Colosseum and the canals of Venice to admire lesser-known parts of the Mediterranean country. Take a deep dive into Roman history on the 14-day Highlights of Sicily & Southern Italy tour, which will take you from Rome to Palermo to see some of the first human settlements in Italy, the eerily-preserved city of Pompeii and much more. Alternatively, tour picturesque Italian countryside and medieval hill towns on the 9-day Gems of Umbria & Tuscany tour.

Get a new perspective on England, Scotland and Wales on Globus’ Undiscovered Britain tours. Take in Scotland’s dramatic landscapes and historic castles on the 14-day Scottish Highlands & Islands tour. Or you might choose the 6-day

Hidden Treasures of Southern England tour if you prefer a leisurely exploration of charming small towns and cultural landmarks, with stops at Stonehenge, Stratford-upon-Avon and Bath.

Wherever you travel with Globus, you can expect to understand your destination like never before, with authentic experiences that get to the heart of what makes each place unique. Go beyond the typical travel experience with Globus. ◆ Head to globusjourneys.ca to start planning your trip. Use the promo code Escapism100 when booking by September 30, 2019 to receive an additional $200 off per couple on select Europe itineraries. See the Globus ad (pg. 6/7) for more details.

LEFT: Travellers can visit the beautiful destination of Sorrento, Italy on tours with Globus

PROMOTION

70 • PROMOTION • NIAGARA PARKS

do go chasing waterfalls Go beyond the traditional tours and experience Niagara Falls from a different perspective with a Niagara Parks Adventure Pass, which gives you access behind, below and above the natural wonder. from an antique cable car. Plus, riders have the unique perk of crossing the international border line without needing a passport due to the way the river bends.

If you prefer to keep both feet safely on the ground, White Water Walk lets you get (almost) within touching distance of the Class 6 whitewater rapids. The self-guided boardwalk, located 70 metres below the falls at the base of the Niagara Gorge, lets you stroll side-by-side with the crashing waves and grab spectacular photos at one of the many viewing platforms along the route.

Perhaps the most unique experience of all, though, is Journey Behind the Falls, a series of 130-year-old tunnels and observation decks close to the base of the Horseshoe Falls. The Adventure Pass also entitles you

to two consecutive days on WEGO – a hopon, hop-off visitor transportation system connecting all of Niagara Parks – giving you more time to explore all it has to offer.

As the name suggests, there’s no better time to visit the Falls than fall, when the crowds are smaller and the weather is less humid. Autumn is also a beautiful time to visit the area courtesy of the fall foliage which turns the leaves deep hues of red, orange and yellow in the Niagara Gorge.

Plus, with five Feast ON certified restaurants in the Park, including the Table Rock House Restaurant, which uses local ingredients, there are plenty of great ways to refuel when your thrill-seeking is done. ◆ To learn more about the Adventure Pass, head to niagaraparks.com

Niagara Parks

Adventure junkies might assume they need to cross continents in search of adrenaline-fuelled pursuits, but there’s a canyon-sized bucket list just over an hour outside Toronto. While you’re probably familiar with the 51 m high falls straddling the Canadian-American border, Niagara Parks also has a ton of fun experiences that go beyond the popular tourist attraction.

The Niagara Falls Adventure Pass offers guests plenty of ways to get up close and personal to the pummelling waterfalls.

Tickets grant adventure-seekers access to unique Niagara attractions which can be used across one or more days.

The Whirlpool Aero Car whisks you across the Niagara Gorge for fabulous overhead views of the Niagara Whirlpool

EXCURSIONS

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◆

The Checklist

The Intrepid Series

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◆

◆

Target Market

Like a Local 98

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Sunshine Coast, B.C.

Melbourne, Australia

Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam

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Rear View

something for everyone

THE CHECKLIST • EXCURSIONS • 73

CHECKLIST

[

ADVENTURE

GEAR

]

THE CHECKLIST Get ready for your next great outdoors getaway with this line-up of gear curated for the intrepid explorer.

KNIFE KNOWING YOU CAMPER KNIFE VICTORINOX: Be prepared for unexpected scenarios on-the-go with this classic camper knife. Its compact design includes two stainless steel blades, a can opener, a flathead screwdriver and other useful tools. Tuck it in your pocket or use the ring to clip it to your key chain. $46, swissarmy.com/ca

Kailee Mandel

▼ INREACH MINI GARMIN: Stay connected wherever you are in the world with this small but mighty satellite communicator. It sends and receives text messages and emails, as well as GPS location data in areas where there’s no cell service. $449.99, mec.ca ▶ VENTURE 70 LIGHTNING GOAL ZERO: Keep your devices charged out in the wilderness with this durable power bank.

It can handle multiple devices at once, and IP67 element protection allows it to withstand tough weather conditions. $199.95, mec.ca

THE CHECKLIST • EXCURSIONS • 75

CHECKLIST

▲ WATER FILTER LIFESTRAW: Get clean drinking water anywhere with this smart water filter, which removes over 99 per cent of water-borne bacteria and protozoan cysts.

Just insert the end into a water source and suck, with no waiting or pumping required. $25.95, mec.ca Kailee Mandel

▶ NANOSTRIKER XL ULTRAPORTABLE FIRE STARTER EXOTAC: Spark a flame easily with this portable, waterproof fire starter.

Each replaceable ferrocerium rod provides over 3000 strikes. It comes with a key ring and wrist lanyard, so you never misplace it. $36, mec.ca

Going Dutch Get ready for an exciting island escape in Saba, the undiscovered adventure capital of the Caribbean.

When you think of the Caribbean, beautiful beaches and all-inclusive resorts are probably among the first images to come to mind. But there’s one little island that will make you reconsider what a trip to the Caribbean can look like. Saba, a 13-squarekilometre island located in the Lesser Antilles chain, is the ultimate destination for

an off-the-beaten-path Caribbean adventure.

Nicknamed the “Unspoiled Queen of the Caribbean,” almost 50 per cent of this volcanic island is covered by lush, tropical rain forest – in fact, it was chosen as one of the primary film sites for the original 1933 King Kong movie because of its dreamy, jungle-like terrain. Here, you’ll find exciting

opportunities for hiking, diving and ecotourism, plus the chance to explore a lesser-known piece of the Caribbean.

Hikers will relish Saba’s many scenic trails, which range in difficulty from moderate to challenging. Admire the island’s coastline on a hike to the Tide Pools at Flatpoint, which offers wonderful views of

SABA TOURISM • PROMOTION • 77

PROMOTION

the Caribbean Sea and northeast side of the island along the way. The clear tide pool water is ideal for spotting all kinds of marine life, from colourful fish to sea urchins.

One can’t-miss hike is the trek to the summit of Mt. Scenery which, at a height of 2,877 ft., is the highest point in all of the Kingdom of the Netherlands. You’ll have a chance to check out the island’s diverse flora and fauna and its distinctive cloud forest eco climage en route.

Saba is equally striking by water as it is by land, with the island’s volcanic origin responsible for creating eye-catching underwater formations and structures. The island is encircled by Saba Marine National Park, a protected marine area where you’ll find healthy reefs and a variety of interesting marine life. Strap on a snorkel or diving gear and search for dozens of different species of fish and turtles and – if you’re particularly lucky -- you might even spot some whale sharks and manta rays.

In spite of Saba’s remote, untouched ambience, getting to the island is easier than you might think. Winair offers four flights daily from the nearby island of St. Maarten.

You can also take the ferry from St. Maarten and air charter service is available as well.

You can easily travel to Saba on a daytrip from its Dutch neighbour and head back in the evening (although we have a feeling that the island’s many alluring charms might persuade you to stay a little longer). ◆ To learn more and plan your trip, visit sabatourism.com

Saba Tourism

10

Signature

Experiences

1. BROCKVILLE RAILWAY TUNNEL Built in 1860, Canada’s first Rail Tunnel was used to connect the waterfront by rail for 110 years. Now it has a comfortable walking surface and an incredible sound and light show for the entire length of the half kilometer (1753’) tunnel. Water seeping through the walls has created beautiful formations of white calcite and yellow dolomite, and the stalactites grow about 1 mm (.04”) per year.

Photo courtesy George Fischer.

2. BROCKVILLE ARTS CENTRE This world class heritage theatre showcases the best live theatre and live entertainment all year-round! From tribute shows to concerts, from musicals to films, there is always something happening at the BROCKVILLE ARTS CENTRE! Photo courtesy Glyn Davies.

3. HISTORIC DOWNTOWN BROCKVILLE Enjoy a diverse selection of charming boutiques, restaurants, bakeries, coffee shops and galleries as you stroll down historic King Street and along the side streets leading to the water.

Photo courtesy Chris Hebert@dominionphoto182.

4. AQUATARIUM The AQUATARIUM showcases the wonders of the River and the Thousand Islands Region in a captivating and enriching manner that is sure to inspire your curiosity! Imaginative exhibit designs and live animals are combined with innovative interactive technologies to entertain children and adults alike!

Meet AQUATARIUM’s three amazing adult River Otters: Brock, Oliver and Ivy.

THE INTREPID SERIES • EXCURSIONS • 79

INTREPID

[

SUNSHINE

COAST,

B.C. ]

THE INTREPID SERIES

W

ELCOME TO THE Intrepid Series, where our writers go above and beyond the average traveller, and put their minds and bodies to the test in search of a deeper or more adventurous experience abroad. This is the part of Escapism where we set aside leisurely city breaks, indulgent culinary tours and beachside getaways in favour of more daring travel experiences.

Since this is our Adventure Issue, we decided to send contributor Andrea Yu on

an extra challenging excursion that would put her upper body strength to the test.

This edition of the Intrepid Series sees her taking on a five-hour kayak journey to reach an off-the-grid eco-lodge in British Columbia. Can she survive the lengthy kayaking journey? Will she make it to dry land before her arms turn to noodles? Flip the page to find out how she fares. Follow Andrea’s along journey the Powell River to Desolation Sound to discover the natural beauty of B.C.’s stunning Sunshine Coast. ◆

[ SUNSHINE COAST, B.C. ]

CABANA IN THE WOODS Andrea Yu slips into a kayak and paddles off the grid for five days in British Columbia’s Desolation Sound, a marine park on the Sunshine Coast.

SUNSHINE COAST, BRITISH COLUMBIA • EXCURSIONS • 81

INTREPID

“

ARE WE HALFWAY there?” I asked our tour guide Erica casually, trying to mask the exhaustion I felt two hours into my firstever kayaking trip. “Not quite, but close,” she replied with a hint of concern about whether I’d make it to our final destination, Cabana Desolation Eco Resort, an off-grid lodge in British Columbia’s Sunshine Coast.

Or maybe it was just my own uncertainty that I was projecting. This was only the first of a five-day kayaking trip and there was plenty more paddling ahead of me.

Our not-quite-halfway point was a deserted beach in a pebbly cove about three nautical miles from our departure point in Lund, which itself is a four-hour drive north of Vancouver. We stopped for a packed lunch stowed away safely in the hutch of Erica’s kayak. As she was setting out the picnic spread I took the opportunity to stretch out my arms from side to side, hoping to work out a knot my back. My paddlemates Margo and Barry, a retired couple from Vancouver, were casually strolling around the cove and taking photos on their smartphones. Why wasn’t anyone else stretching? Weren’t they as sore as I was, feeling the pain and strain?

I was told that core muscles are integral for kayaking – they’re much stronger than

they were also experienced paddlers who had embarked on a few similar ventures elsewhere in the province. That meant I was the novice in our group of four paddlers in three kayaks, lagging behind and trying my best to keep pace.

Thankfully we took plenty of rest stops along the way – to inspect one of many shore-side oyster farms; to watch an eagle swoop down into the water for its latest marine meal and devour it on land; or simply just to stop and admire a beautiful wilderness vista across the clear water.

The region we were kayaking in, Desolation Sound, got its name during an expedition by the explorer (and namesake of the province’s largest city) George Vancouver. He deemed the area remote and unpleasing during a surveying mission in the late 1700s. It’s hard to imagine what Vancouver must have been seeing, or thinking, back then. Desolation Sound is now a designated George Vancouver marine provincial (born in 1757) was a park and considered British explorer and one of the most naval officer best known for surveying picturesque coastal the Pacific coast of regions of the North America. province.

“NOT QUITE BUT CLOSE” SHE REPLIED WITH A HINT OF CONCERN ABOUT WHETHER I’D MAKE IT

Adam Vallance

arm muscles, which tire quickly. “Pretend you’re hugging a beach ball between your body and your paddle,” Erica recommended as I practised my stroke on shore prior to departure, twisting from side to side as my arms remained nearly stationary at 90-degree angles. But the movement proved to be much more challenging on the water as my knotted shoulder blades, noodle-like arms and achy lower back protested.

Margo and Barry made it look easy.

Not only were they paired up in a double kayak for twice the paddling power but

LEFT: Desolation Sound is the largest marine park in British Columbia. It’s known for its unusually warm waters, fjords, mountain peaks and islands

The majority of our route thus far had traced northwest through the Okeover Inlet, but once we approached the end of the peninsula a stretch of open water about one nautical mile across stood between us and our destination of Kinghorn Island where the lodge was located. It was mid-afternoon by this time and a light wind had picked up into a westerly breeze.

The associated westerly waves, with the beginnings of whitecaps, slowed down our northerly progress to the island all the more.

As large waves began to crest over the bow of my kayak I reminded myself of the exit strategy we were taught on shore to use in case of an accidental flip. Pull out, then up on the aptly nicknamed ‘oh crap strap’ at the top of the spray skirt that kept my lower >

ABOVE: Each plank of wood used to build Cabana Desolation, an off-grid eco-lodge, was powerboated over from the nearest town 30 minutes away

> half dry and tucked into the vessel.

Thankfully, I didn’t need to put this knowledge into use. After what felt like an eternity but was probably about 20 minutes, we reached the shores of Kinghorn Island upright and intact. The westerly winds

were now conveniently blowing us around to the edge of the island and closer to our destination. So, copying my paddlemates, we held the blades of our paddles out vertically, Kinghorn Island is a small, uninhabited like small sails to (save for Cabana catch the wind. I Desolation) island found solace in the on British Columbia’s Sunshine Coast. fact that after nearly It is about 2 miles in five hours of kayaking, circumference.

I finally had company

in this feeling of utter fatigue.

Rounding the northeast corner of Kinghorn Island, I caught sight of wooden fixtures on a rocky hump that sat in the sun, along with what looked like window panes from a distance. Erica told us they were solar panels that helped power the lodge’s kitchen, along with small box gardens that grow herbs and lettuce. “Never before have I been so happy to see a solar panel,” I said to the group, realizing it was a sign that we’d

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GOING OFF THE GRID WASN’T SUPPOSED TO BE THIS CUSHY meal of basmati rice, lamb kebabs, roasted eggplant and sautéed chard and beets cooked from scratch by the lodge’s chef Alix who also lives on site. Travelling off the grid wasn’t supposed to be this cushy.

We fell into a regular rhythm for the days that followed. After Erica checked the weather conditions and wind report we decided on an appropriate spot within kayaking range to explore. Following a hearty breakfast (veggie popovers, squash pancakes and a Japanese-inspired omelette among them), we’d paddle off and reach our destination at midday, picnicking on a lunch packed by chef Alix, before returning home.

Among the most beautiful spots we paddled to were the Curme Islands, which were about an eight-nautical-mile paddle, round trip. The waters here were so clear and blue that I could have been fooled into thinking I was in the Mediterranean.

By the fourth day, I decided I had earned myself a “personal day” on Kinghorn Island.

I forwent the daily kayaking expedition for a day of reading, yoga on the dock and, admittedly, napping in my cabana. By the afternoon, the guilt of relative inactivity had set in so I took advantage of the warm weather and sunshine, pulled a shortie wetsuit up over my body and snorkelling gear over my face and glided face-first into the clear blue ocean.

Snorkelling may seem like a counterintuitive activity anywhere in >

Adam Vallance

finally reached our ultimate destination.

After hopping out of our kayaks and hauling them up onto shore we were shown to our homes at Cabana Desolation – standalone cedarwood cabins that housed comfy mattresses on log beds and a chaise lounge chair. Just outside each cabin there was a sink with running water and a propane-heated outdoor shower. Open window screens replaced traditional glass panes on the wall facing the ocean, letting in

the cool and fresh sea breeze at all hours.

I flopped down on the lounge chair, my mouth hanging slightly open as I stared out at the view, dumbfounded by its beauty and my state of exhaustion. I felt like I was cheating the traditional outdoors experience with such a well-equipped abode, but I wasn’t complaining about it. After a hot shower, we collected at the outdoor dining area for dinner. We were joined by another set of kayakers for a Middle East-inspired

GETTING THERE The Okeover launch point is about a four hour drive from Vancouver. Pacific Coastal Airlines flies to Powell River and cab service can be taken to Okeover in about 40 mins. pacificcoastal. com; cabanadesolation.com

INTREPID

84 • EXCURSIONS • SUNSHINE COAST, BRITISH COLUMBIA

LEFT: The Curme Islands were formerly privately owned. The islands were donated to the Desolation Sound Marine Provincial Park in 1996

> Canada but the waters here are surprisingly tepid – the warmest north of Mexico. It makes these waters a happy home for marine species you might otherwise spot in tropical destinations.

As I snorkelled around the shores along Kinghorn Island I must have spotted over 50 giant starfish brightly coloured in purples and pinks (I’m told the colour variation is caused by what they feed on), tubular sea cucumbers with their spiky protrusions and a single reddish-orange crab. I learned that urchins and anemones also make a home in these warm waters.

Rain had been forecasted for the fifth and final day of my stay at Cabana Desolation.

Most guests typically kayak back to our launch point in Okeover but I’ve opted for the powerboat return since I had a flight to catch and didn’t want to take the chance

that more whitecaps would keep me from hitting my departure timeline.

This day allowed us a peek into the logistics and operations of the resort, which I’d come to take for granted as a guest.

“Changeover” days, when guests depart and new guests arrive, are designated on Thursdays and Sundays. This is when the resort’s owner, Adam Vallance, powerboats over from Okeover with his wife and teenage daughter. They help to clean and service the rooms, readying the property for its next crop of guests.

As we rest in the Minimal tidal exchange in Desooutdoor café with lation Sound allows mugs of tea we have the sun to warm up an opportunity to chat ocean waters during the day, lending with the brainchild to unusually high behind this masterful temperatures. feat of construction

Andrea Yu

I MUST HAVE SPOTTED 50 GIANT STARFISH BRIGHTLY COLOURED IN PURPLES AND PINKS

and hospitality. Vallance had a background in drafting and architecture before he switched gears into running his own kayak touring company, Powell River Sea Kayak.

Cabana Desolation was spawned from his desire to offer a more upscale experience beyond the kayak camping tours he already offered. So Vallance took out a 60-year lease for the crown land we were currently on and designed all the major elements of the lodge from its six cabanas to the outdoor café area, where we enjoyed our meals and downtime, as well as the raised, curving boardwalks that connected it all. Running water for our sinks and showers was pumped up from a spring located half a kilometre away from the lodge, which is part of Vallance’s maintenance duties on changeover days.

Construction spanned over two years from 2012 to 2014 as Vallance painstakingly powerboated over all the tools and planks of wood required for building, except for the longer beams in the café and kitchen for which he required a rented barge for transportation. Vallance admits he might not have embarked on the mission if he had known beforehand about all of the hurdles he would have had to overcome. But the results are nothing short of impressive. I couldn’t help but feel a sense of awe for what it must’ve taken to put the property together and I know everyone else in the group felt the same way.

This incredible feat way outdoes my own achievement of making it through a five (okay, three) day kayaking adventure.

As we ride in the powerboat, my kayak safely secured to the stern, we zoom back to Okeover roughly following the course we had kayaked five days prior, serving as a fast-forwarded highlight reel. The return journey seems to last a little bit longer than I expected. Did I really paddle all that way on my own? Despite the rain that was falling, I felt in good spirits and my muscles had recovered after a much-needed day of rest. Just for a fleeting moment, I thought to myself, today would’ve been a nice day to head out for a paddle. ◆

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PROMOTION

spectacular nunavik Experience the tradition, history and life of Inuit people as they guide you through Nunavik, an expanse of breathtaking arctic landscapes where adventure abounds.

Counter Clockwise: ©Steve Deschênes; ©Brian Friedrich; ©Neil S. Price; ©Hooké

HOW MANY OF us in Toronto can say that we’ve truly experienced the great Canadian north? The real north – where polar bear and caribou roam, roads are replaced with incredible tundra landscapes and temperatures drop below -30C in winter.

In the far reaches of northern Québec, an arctic experience, and the adventure of a lifetime, is waiting for you.

The northernmost region in the province, Nunavik stretches from Hudson Bay to the Hudson Strait and from Ungava Bay to Labrador. There are no roads here. In the not so distant past, dogsledding was the only mode of transportation from one community to another. Now, it’s air travel.

The 507,000 km² area is a breathtaking expanse of arctic wilderness, peppered with fourteen Inuit villages Outdoor activities abound in Nunavik’s national parks. Go hiking, sea kayaking, river rafting, fishing, dogsledding, alpine snowshoeing, Nordic skiing, paraskiing, fat biking and more. Nunavik Parks offers allinclusive packages that allow you to partake in these amazing outdoor adventures while also incorporating the opportunity for cultural discovery and shared experiences with the Inuit people. For hassle-free travel, packages include transportation from Montréal, meals and accommodations.

Visit Pingualuit National Park and hike along the walls of a huge meteoric crater with a shimmering lake recessed deep inside.

An aerial view reveals that the glistening

COUNTER CLOCKWISE: The Hudson cuestas loom over an inland sea in Tursujuq National Park.

On top of the world in the Torngat Mountains of Kuururjuaq National Park. Hiking around a meteoritic crater lake at Pingualuit National Park.

Your hosts, the Inuit people of Nunavik

surface resembles a crystal eye. To add to this already incredible experience, the adventure includes exploring the Inuit community of Kangiqsujuaq and following the Puvirnituq River canyon in addition to hiking around the crater.

In the Kuururjuaq National Park, you can hike through the largest mountain range on this continent east of the Rockies.

After a visit of the northern village of Kangiqsualujjuaq, take in the spectacular views as you fly to the head of the Koroc River for a trek through the Torngat Mountains.

Covering 26,107 km² on the Hudson Bay coast, Tursujuq National Park is the largest in the province. Kayak through its inland seas, amidst spectacular cuestas reminiscent of the Far West, while spending time in the nearby tight-knit community of Umiujaq.

Having lived in these lands for millennia, the Inuit people are the best guides to take you on a journey here.

An adventure with Nunavik Parks is an opportunity to not only explore this majestic land, but also to learn from the Inuit people and experience their culture.

Get a firsthand account of Inuit life, history and traditions. Take in the beauty of Inuit art, crafts and creations; discover the deeper meaning behind inuksuit, the stone statues used as landmarks; and absorb some of the knowledge and wisdom that has enabled the Inuit people to survive and thrive on an unforgiving land for more than a thousand years. ◆ For more information and to start planning your adventure to Nunavik’s National Parks, visit nunavikparks.ca or follow @parcsnunavik on Facebook.

MARKET

88 • EXCURSIONS • MELBOURNE, AUSTRALIA

SPECIALTIES OF THE HOUSE

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FOODIE TOURS The market can be overwhelming for novices, so take a crash course in all the gastronomic goodies. Book yourself on the Queen Vic Market Ultimate Foodie Tour, which runs on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday at 9 a.m and 11 a.m.

TARGET MARKET Covering ten football fields, Melbourne’s sprawling Queen Victoria Market can be daunting. Luckily, Katie Bridges has you covered.

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from Corner Larder inside the Dairy Hall.

Since no self-respecting Melburnian would embark without coffee, be sure to grab a flat white from Market Lane while you’re there.

Once the caffeine hits, head over to the Meat and Fish Hall for barramundi from iconic vendor George the Fishmonger or steak from Sardes Quality Meats.

Vic Market also appeals to a younger demographic with their Night Market series, held every Wednesday during the summer and winter. The late-night extravaganza offers visitors a bonus roster of bars and food trucks, plus live music and designers touting their artisan creations.

Since Melbourne winters are warmer than most spring days in Canada, there’s no off-season, though the Market is closed on Monday and Wednesday. And don’t forget to bring a tote bag – Vic Market just announced a ban on plastic bags and straws. Oh, and the early bird gets the (free-range) worm – it’s open from 6 a.m. to 2 p.m. most days. ◆

AMERICAN DOUGHNUT VAN For almost 70 years, this old school bus has been cranking out hot jam doughnuts at the market. ADK has continuously operated since 1950 but its popularity, like its recipe, has never changed. This lineup is worth the wait.

QVM by David M G; Barbecue by Forest71; Simon Shiff

STABLISHED IN 1878, on the site of a cemetery, Queen Victoria Market has grown from a trading hub for a burgeoning Melbourne population to a sprawling, iconic landmark that draws millions of visitors from all over the world.

Though the historic market has been known to divide local opinion (institution or tourist trap?), no trip to Victoria’s capital should end without a visit to the Southern Hemisphere’s largest open-air market.

True, Queen Vic offers more than food (kangaroo merch, anyone?), but you’ll want to spend your time strolling the aisles between bellowing butchers and produce pedlars. While visitors might not be stocking their pantries, it’s a great place to try samples and purchase unique souvenirs from one of the many shops for local goods.

At seven hectares, we strongly advise a divide-and-conquer approach. Those who chew on the move can find delicious breads from M&G Caiafa and antipasto and cheese

BBQ CLASSES Roll up your sleeves and get behind the counter at Whack it on the Barbie for two-hour BBQ classes every weekend.

Guests are taught how to use charcoal, wood and smoke, before digging into a meat-and-craft-beer tasting.

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in people-watching. Gawk as volleyballers go full Top Gun on Copacabana Beach or enjoy sunsets from Praia do Arpoador on Ipanema Beach. If you feel like dancing, Pedra do Sal, a neighbourhood credited as the birthplace of samba, throws a street party every Monday night – caipirinhas are mandatory.

STAY

Cash: Hotel Emiliano Ipanema is often considered Rio’s most stylish neighbourhood, but Hotel Emiliano (rooms from $500) gives us cause to believe that Copacabana is the hottest spot (south of Havana). Highlights include an infinity pool with stunning views of the Atlantic and breakfast at the chic Emilie restaurant, with its striking living wall – but guests come back for those beachfront views of Copacabana Beach and Sugarloaf Mountain.

Crunch: Hotel Selina Rio Hotel Selina Rio is what would happen if a backpacker hostel went away to college and came back looking really hot. This boutiquehotel-meets-coworking-space refuses to trade quality digs for communal areas, instead offering a variety of beautiful rooms (from $32) that make you feel like you’ve walked into an IKEA catalogue, with the addition of a bar, movie room and yoga deck.

What more could you want? Oh, earplugs.

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CASH OR CRUNCH

Cash: Helicopter Tour No trip to Rio de Janeiro is complete without a visit to Christ the Redeemer, the 125-foot-tall statue perched on top of Corcovado Mountain. But what better way to see the big man than up-close-andpersonal from the window of a chopper? Our favourite operator is Ultra Pilot, which offers 60-minute rides (approx. $300) over sights including Tijuca National Park, Sugarloaf Mountain and Guanabara Bay. Crunch: Beaches and Pedra do Sal Home to some of the world’s most spectacular beaches, Rio offers a masterclass

Crunch: Lilia If you’re looking for a chef-driven meal on a budget, you’ll get plenty of bang for your buck (or Brazilian real) at Lilia. The lunch spot, which was awarded a Michelin bib gourmand for good value, is tucked away on the upper floor of a 19th-century building in the artsy Lapa neighbourhood. The small, plant-forward set menu is priced at about R$52 (about $18 CAD). ◆

Marchello74

Get off the beach and enjoy everything Rio has to offer – from habitable hostels to tasting menus – whether you’re feeling spendy or on a budget.

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Cash: Oro A meal at this Michelin-starred spot, helmed by a celeb chef and sommelier duo (Felipe Bronze and Cecilia Aldaz), is a steal at around $225 for a tasting menu with wine pairings. While traditional Brazilian fare is given a modern and playful twist, the real star is the fire that touches almost everything on the menu.

TRAFALGAR TOURS • PROMOTION • 91

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Easy, breezy, Trafalgar With the rising popularity of experience-based travel, many sightseers are foregoing beach resorts and hotels for more meaningful ways to connect with travel locations.

Trafalgar Tours

More and more, travellers want experiences that reflect authenticity; they want to feel connected to a local culture in a way that isn’t possible when confined to a typical group tour. Many tour packages will cram people on a tour bus, lead them through packed tourist areas and take them to the same overcrowded attractions. You can be visiting a country for weeks on end without really getting a true sense of how local people live their lives.

Trafalgar has mastered the art of curating travel experiences that go far beyond the standard realm of vacation. With over 300 trips across all seven continents, the awardwinning travel brand specializes in crafting exclusive, unique experiences that will allow you to see the world through a whole new

lens. Whether you want to learn the Italian craft of glassblowing or the art of Japanese tea making, you’ll have the opportunity to participate in one-of-a-kind activities that will leave you with stories to tell.

The best way to get to know a new city is to fully immerse yourself in the culture and get to know the members of the community.

Many Trafalgar packages feature exclusive ‘Be My Guest’ dinners, where local hosts welcome you into their household and serve up a traditional home-cooked meal. You can also participate in tours to off-the-beatentrack destinations with a local guide who will give you insight into the city’s culture or engage in sustainability projects that leave a lasting positive impact in the community.

Leave the guide book at home, and leave

all the planning to the professionals. One of the best parts about booking a guided vacation with Trafalgar is that it allows you to stay fully present during your holiday. You don’t have to worry about planning activities or booking hotels – everything you need has already been carefully handcrafted by a team of experts, allowing you to enjoy the best parts of a trip – the culture, the food, the sight-seeing –without any additional stress.

Don’t let your fear get in the way of your travel plans – hand over the reins and let yourself be carried away on the trip of your dreams. ◆ You can save 10 per cent on select Europe and Britain 2020 trips if you book by December 18, 2019. To learn more and plan your trip, visit trafalgar.com

LOCAL

92 • EXCURSIONS • HO CHI MINH CITY, VIETNAM

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LIKE A LOCAL Wolf Paunic, president of travel tour operators, Trafalgar and Costsaver Canada, gives us the tour guide treatment and takes us through one of his favourite destinations: Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam.

CARMEN BAR

SAIGON VESPA TOUR

THE RUNNING BEAN CAFÉ

WAR REMNANTS MUSEUM

BANH XEO

Having a cocktail at Bitexco Financial Tower at sunset should be at the top of everyone’s bucket list. As the second tallest tower in Ho Chi Minh City, the view captures the beauty of the city centre, as well as the meandering Saigon River.

The Running Bean Café is known as the Vietnamese version of Starbucks. Located in Ben Nghe, it has both air-conditioned lounges and a beautiful patio overlooking a busy street buzzing with scooters and people. Enjoy the local favourite cà phê sua, an iced coffee with condensed milk.

Located in District 1, Carmen is a Spanishthemed jazz bar, with excellent live music, great cocktails and a diverse wine list. You’ll find a special atmosphere here in a rustic, cave-like setting. I can testify that their ginand-tonics are very refreshing.

The tragic history of the Vietnam War is thematically displayed at the War Remnants Museum. It’s not an easy visit, nor for every traveller, but it’s worthwhile to understand the magnitude of the destruction during the war and to better appreciate the enormity of change that’s happened in Vietnam since.

A Saigon Vespa Tour is a must-do if you’re not afraid of riding two-wheelers on very busy streets. I prefer to take a tour once evening falls and the temperature is milder.

It’s also more enjoyable to observe people at dusk when their work day is over.

The food in Vietnam is amazing, both for its taste and diversity of regional styles and ingredients. It’s mostly on the spicy side, but great for the hot and humid climate. Be sure to try banh xeo. It’s a crispy, savoury crepe stuffed with wild mushrooms and should always be enjoyed with a Saigon beer. ◆

R.M. Nunes; Melinda Nagy; Take Photo; Phuong D. Nguyen

BITEXCO FINANCIAL TOWER

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9th Annua

TORONTO

GARLIC FESTIVAL

Unlock the flavours of Ontario garlic!

Sun Sept 15, 2019

ArtScApe WychWood BArnS

601 chriStie St. @ St. clAir Ave.W.

9Am-5pm • $5

FARMERS SELLING GARLIC • CHEFS COOKING WITH GARLIC • FREE RAW GARLIC SHOTS • WINE • CRAFT & GARLIC BEER • GARLIC SODA GARLIC ICE CREAM & DESSERTS • CULTURE TALKS & COOKING DEMOS GARLIC BRAIDING & ART • GARLIC BREATH CONTEST • FILM SCREENINGS LIVE MUSIC • VIRTUAL REALITY FARM TOUR • GARLIC EVERYTHING! www.torontogarlicfestival.ca @TorontoGarlic

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TorontoGarlicFestival

torontogarlicfestival

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We hit the road, get active in beautiful parks and knock top items off our bucket list for these intrepid round-ups.

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e pic e xcursio n s Throw on your Proclaimers playlist and stock up on beef jerky (or biltong!) for one of these world-class road trips.

1) CROSS COUNTRY, CANADA There’s epic, and then there’s epic – which is how

we’d describe this legendary road trip all the way across Canada. You think you know our country but do you really? To have your mind blown, head out on this coast-tocoast route through a range of cultures,

accents and time zones, all set against the country’s jawdroppingly beautiful landscapes. Spread the 60 hours of driving over at least ten days and make sure you find a campsite for one of the nights.

2) THE GARDEN ROUTE, SOUTH AFRICA Think of South Africa’s Garden Route a bit like a road trip through your bucket list.

It will take you along winding open road, through world-renowned wine territory and sweeping landscapes. But

there’s more: you’ll also find safari lodges, the sweet coastal towns of Knysna and Plettenberg Bay, beautiful beaches in Keurboomstrand and award-winning wineries and restaurants in Franschhoek.

Nature lovers will appreciate that in 2017 it was added to UNESCO’s World Network of Biosphere Reserves.

Put simply, you should go.

Franschhoek Valley wineries are known for their robust reds based on shiraz and cabernet sauvignon.

But they also make cap classique, a champagne-method sparkling with chardonnay and pinot noir grapes.

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3) ANDALUSIA, SOUTHERN SPAIN Whether you want to stuff your face with the finest tapas or hike through breathtaking landscapes, you’ll find a bit of everything on this route through the best bits (and

Kavram; Benjamin B; Stefano_Valeri; D K Grove; Yunsun_Kim; Pierre Leclerc

4) NORTH COAST 500, SCOTLAND The Scottish Highlands don’t often get mentioned when it comes to the world’s greatest road trips, but we’re not really sure why.

To get a taste of moody clifftops and looming turrets that’ll make you

bites) of Spain’s south coast. Fly into Malaga, then ease yourself in with the beautiful beaches of Nerja before taking a few days to explore the Sierra Nevada National Park. From there, rest weary legs on the beach at Cabo de Gata, sate your stomach with endless tapas in Murcia, and feast your eyes on Moorish architecture.

feel like you’re in a bodice-ripping Victorian romance (every girl’s dream, amirite?), strike out on the North Coast 500, a 516-mile route along the top of Scotland. You’ll start and end at Inverness Castle, meandering past deserted beaches beautiful enough to almost rival the Caribbean, tiny whisky distilleries and restaurants serving fresh seafood.

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The park connects four Spanish provinces and covers 85,883 hectares. A total of 20 peaks over 3,000 metres challenge the keenest hikers.

Clear days offer a view across the Med to Morocco.

5) THE GREAT OCEAN ROAD, AUSTRALIA Beaches, bays and bars abound along Australia’s Great Ocean Road, a three-day route

that kicks off at the surf capital of Torquay, heads to the striking 12 Apostles limestone stacks and finishes at the historic fishing village Port Fairy. Beyond the obvious sites, stop off along the way for the chance to spot koalas, kangas and

even whales. Feeling adventurous? Zip line across the lush treetop canopy or hike to the peak of a volcanic crater.

Feeling hungry? Visit the craft breweries and brilliant restaurants you’ll find along the way.

Worth a visit? You betcha, Butterbean!

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Inverness is next to both the Highlands and Speyside whisky regions. Single malts from the former are known for niche, robust characteristics, while the latter features whisky’s biggest, world-recognized names.

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Way more than a stroll in the park, a journey to one of these protected parcels will make memories to last a lifetime.

Firstname Surname

1) JASPER NATIONAL PARK, CANADA Close your eyes and imagine the perfect snapshot of great

Canadian wilderness – sparkling blue lakes, tall trees, snowy mountains, roaming grizzlies and meandering moose. What you’re picturing is Jasper National Park, the largest national park in the Canadian

Rockies. Camp out here under the world’s second largest dark-skypreserve. Jasper’s lakes provide the perfect conditions for kayaking, canoeing, paddle boarding, traction kiting and fishing.

2) NGORONGORO CONSERVATION AREA, TANZANIA

3) CHUBUSANGAKU NATIONAL PARK, JAPAN

Over a million wildebeest pass through here every year during their annual migration (think the “Lion King” stampede scene but less frantic). Flamingos, zebra, gazelles, endangered black rhinos and lions also make the wildlife list here. Camp out or stay at a luxury lodge right in the conservation area.

This is the place for crystal-clear rivers, waterfalls and grassy meadows all set against a backdrop of Japan’s famous, snowy mountain peaks.

Follow the Tateyama Kurobe Alpine Route for sites like the Shomyo Waterfalls, Kurobe Dam and the wetlands of the Midagahara Plain.

Then, take a dip in the hot springs.

When the Beagle visited in 1835, Darwin spotted differences between 14 bird species now known as Darwin’s finches. Their specialized beaks helped point him toward his Theory of Natural Selection.

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4) GALAPAGOS NATIONAL PARK, ECUADOR

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There’s a reason Charles Darwin favoured the

5) KHAO SOK PARK, THAILAND A trip to Thailand wouldn’t be complete without venturing into the lush rainforest and exploring the limestone caves that the country

Galápagos Islands.

Extreme isolation and a location where three different ocean currents converge resulted in the evolution of unique species here. The islands are considered a national park and a

World Heritage Site so there are strict rules to protect the wildlife. To get the most out of your visit, go on a guided tour with a trained naturalist who can take you into the park’s protected, interesting areas.

is known for. And Khao Sok National Park is the place to do just that.

Book one of their recommended tours for a two-, three- or four-day adventure.

The itineraries include must-dos like jungle trekking, an ethical elephant experience and an overnight stay in a floating raft house on Cheow Lan Lake.

The 185-square-kilometre lake was formed in 1987 when the Rajjaprabha Dam was built.

After the lake was created, 1,364 animals had to be rescued from newly formed islands by boat or helicopter.

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St ruc k it Ri c h L i st These are some once-in-a-lifetime experiences to add to your bucket list.

Delbars; Sadao; Blue Orange Studiov; Day2505; Mezzotint; I Viewfinder; Kiwisoul; Nadya Ra; Artem Beliaikin

1) CYCLING DEATH ROAD IN BOLIVIA

2) BUNGEE JUMPING IN NEW ZEALAND

Between the landslides, tumbling cascades and falling rocks, there’s a reason North Yungas Road sees a dozen cyclist deaths every year. The dirt road hardly gets wider than three metres next to a drop of 610 metres, so, you know, try not to fall. You’re required to keep left when rounding corners, even though this places you precariously close to the edge.

If plummeting from a height of 43 metres fits your description of fun, then New Zealand should top your list of adventure destinations.

The country has a reputation as a thrill-seekers’ paradise and there are plenty of opportunities to push yourself to your limit. We recommend going to Kawarau Bridge in Queenstown, which is generally seen

as the first ever commercial bungee jumping operation.

Or, try the Nevis Bungy, the country’s highest bungee, which will send you on a deathdefying nosedive from a height of 134 metres. It’s safe, but definitely doesn’t feel that way!

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Buildings, antennas, spans and earth (i.e., cliffs) are the accepted spots to BASE jump from – hence the acronym.

Jumpers who have completed all four apply to be recognized by number. We really can’t stress enough how much this is a dangerous, at-yourown-risk activity.

3) BASE JUMPING AT KJERAG, NORWAY

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Not a feat for beginners, base jumping from the 1,110-metre Norwegian mountain is a rite of passage for the truly undaunted. BASE

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4) CENOTE DIVING IN MEXICO

jumping (in case you don’t know) is the act of leaping off a cliff’s edge with only the security of a parachute.

Unsurprisingly, it’s one of the most dangerous hobbies in the world. From 1994 to 2018, there have been 140 accidents and 13 deaths at Kjerag, which has not deterred the bona fide daredevils.

Low-key gorgeous is the way to describe this enchanting cenote in the village of Yaxunah. Cenote Lol Há is a natural, underground pool located 24 kilometres from Chichen-Itza. You can dive from the cliff’s ledge into the crystalline water or go snorkelling and explore the underwater chasms.

In Mayan culture, cenotes were revered as sources for spiritual healing and as gateways to the afterlife.

5) BALI SWINGS IN INDONESIA Nestled in the Badung region of Indonesia, the Bali swings have become a huge draw for tourists. Bali Swing, a local operator, has 12 sets of swings – ranging from 10 to 78 metres above the ground – where visitors can confront their fear of heights once and for all.

Grip tightly on the ropes and enjoy the feeling of pure joy (or pure terror) as you glide gracefully over the Balinese jungle. Have your friends snap photos of your panicked face for the ‘gram.

REAR VIEW

98 • EXCURSIONS • CAPPADOCIA, TURKEY

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CAPPADOCIA,

TURKEY

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HE LANDSCAPES OF Cappadocia, a region in central Turkey, are nothing short of magical. The area’s soft volcanic rock has been carved by eruptions, wind and rain over the centuries and the result is a moon-like terrain of thin rock spires, rippling valleys and dimpled cliffs.

Adding to the region’s enchanting ambiance is a fascinating cultural history,

with a network of man-made caves, tunnels, chambers and religious sites carved below its surface. While there are many different ways to take in the oddities of Cappadocia, hot-air balloon rides have become a favourite with tourists. The popularity of the experience means the skies over Cappadocia are peppered with hundreds of colourful balloons almost every morning. ◆

Tatiana Popova

REAR VIEW

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The Colosseum | Caesars Windsor @patrickhyzy

We’re not Rome, but we do have a Colosseum.

Experience Windsor Essex and the home of Canada’s largest casino resort.

Discover more on pages 36-37 or at visitwindsoressex.com/escapism

Vin Villa Ruins | Pelee Island @dillonerwinphotography

We may not be France, but we are the birthplace of bubbly in Canada.

Same latitude, different attitude. Discover Windsor Essex and the 18 wineries along the Lake Erie North Shore.

Discover more on pages 36-37 or at visitwindsoressex.com/escapism