hustling through the anchorage as we idled over to the Anchorage Marina, where Mike, the dockmaster, took our lines, checked us in and answered all our questions. We were soon squared away and pedaling rental bikes to Howard’s Pub for an early lunch of shrimp, oysters and beer before a short ride to the beach. After lunch, crest-ing the dunes on the beach to the north of Ocracoke Village, we found ourselves wrapped in sea oats, blue sky and crashing surf. A naturally beautiful beach—and only a handful of people—we have it almost to ourselves as we walked and sat and gazed. We would have loved to linger for the day but wanted to spend some time in the village. To bicycle around Ocracoke is to return to a simpler time, where life slows to a pace that is without hurry. The
News & Views for Southern Sailors
sea is never far away, and the presence of the lighthouse, a harbor and friendly folks makes even the newest comers feel immediately at home. We bicycled to dinner at the Back Porch Restaurant, followed by a nightcap in the cockpit, closing out our visit in anticipation of the next day’s dash to Beaufort to the south. On to Town Creek Anchorage/Beaufort The next morning, sounds of daily life came early to the harbor, encouraging us to get up and get underway. The day’s goal was to close the distance on Lookout Bight—more than 70 “water miles” to the southwest. So, with Cindy at the helm, we dashed out Big Slough Channel, bound for “as far as we can get before sunset.” With coffee in hand, I set a westerly course across Pamlico Sound, en route to the
SOUTHWINDS
February 2013
59