Best New Restaurants PLUS WHERE THE CHEFS EAT
Santa Rosa’s L’Oro Di Napoli
Sonoma Sonoma Valley’s
Best Outdoor Best Outdoor Dining and BestDinin Seafood
SonomaValley’s
R CC A L IA F OL R NII AF CO UIS I NN E •I OA Y S TC ER U B AIR S A| IL ULN CS • C O C K TC A IO LS C • DK I NT NER H W E E K E N D B RW U NE C HE K E N D
BestOutdoorDiningandBestSeafood
9900SonomaHwyKenwood,CA saltstonekenwood.com|707.833.6326
Sonoma Hw 9900 9900 Sonoma Hwy Kenwood, CA saltstonekenwood.c saltstonekenwood.com | 707.833.6326
Welcome to our guide to
Sonoma’s best new restaurants.
The oyster po'boy sandwich at Oyster in Sebastopol.
Our annual romp through the dining culture of Sonoma County is a joy to put together. In a place where food is at the heart of so many aspects of daily life, and eating well is practically a spectator sport, we’re proud to be able to put together this collection of new favorites—all spots that have opened within the past year and half. From humble burger joints where the chef proudly grinds his own blend of specialty meats to a multicourse spread of exquisite plantbased dishes, the range of mouthwatering local offerings will impress even the most experienced diner. As we know, our Sonoma dining scene holds its own against that of much larger communities.
Kim Carroll, John Burgess (cover)
This special issue was put together with the expertise of our entire food team, including dining editor Heather Irwin, food writer Carey Sweet, and Press Democrat reporter and recipe developer extraordinaire Jennifer Graue. These three smart reporters all live to bring you the best of Sonoma’s food scene, and we’re grateful for their hard work. Here’s to a delicious fall!
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PRESIDENT AND PUBLISHER Steve Childs EDITOR IN CHIEF Abigail Peterson SENIOR EDITOR Maci Martell DINING EDITOR Heather Irwin CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Jennifer Graue, Carey Sweet CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS John Burgess, Kim Carroll, Erik Castro, Heather Irwin DIGITAL DIRECTOR Annika Toernqvist DIGITAL EDITOR Sofia Englund
CHIEF REVENUE OFFICER Karleen Arnink-Pate CHIEF REVENUE STRATEGIST Adam Bush ADVERTISING SALES DIRECTOR Dennis Sheely DIGITAL OPERATIONS DIRECTOR Tomas Chadsey DIRECTOR OF MARKETING AND BRAND Matt Kehoe SPONSORSHIP AND EVENTS DIRECTOR Brandelle McIntosh SPECIALTY CONTENT MANAGER Ken Jaggie
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Sonoma Magazine Locals Guides are published by the Magazine Division of Sonoma Media Investments, LLC, 416 B Street, Suite A, Santa Rosa, Ca 95401. © 2023 Sonoma Media Investments LLC. All rights reserved. Sonoma Magazine adheres to American Society of Magazine Editors Guidelines, which require a clear distinction between editorial content and paid advertising or marketing messages.
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Thank you Sonoma County for voting El Roy’s Best Food Truck 9 years in a row!
Visit one of our 6 locations in Sonoma County Petaluma Food Truck #1: 401 E. Washington St., Petaluma Mon-Sat: 5pm-10pm Santa Rosa Food Truck #1: 760 Sebastopol Rd., Santa Rosa (707) 843-2166 Mon-Thu: 11am-11pm Fri-Sat: 11am-12am
IG:
Petaluma Food Truck #2: 175 Fairgrounds Dr., Petaluma (707) 241-6534
Petaluma Restaurant: 210 Edith St., Petaluma (707) 774-3738 Mon-Sun: 11am-8pm
Santa Rosa Food Truck #2: 2728 Santa Rosa Ave, Santa Rosa (707) 494-3558 Mon-Sat: 11am-11pm Sunday: 11am-10pm
Santa Rosa Food Truck #3: 505 Santa Rosa Ave, Santa Rosa (707) 890-1763 Mon-Sat: 11am-10pm
Mon-Sun: 11am-11pm
elroysexpressmex
Website: elroysxpressmex.com Email: roy@elroysxpressmex.com
#SUPPORT SMALL BUSINESSES #EAT LOCAL #SUPPORT A DREAM
HEALDSBURG
Molti Amici MOLTI AMICI OWNER JONNY BARR is likely the only certified
BEST BETS Bar bites They’re more than just an afterthought here, with changing selections like gnoccho fritto ($11), triangles of fried dough paired with Mortadella ham. The focaccia with garlic butter ($10) is also a savory carb to fill you up. Housemade pasta Deft hands are working the dough here. Try casoncelli, a type of giant ravioli, and tortellini en brodo with smoked eggplant and tomato confit ($26-28). 4 sonomamag.com LOCA L’S GU IDE
Pizza Half the fun of sitting outside is watching the speed of pizzas going in and out of the wood-fired oven. They’re not overdressed and have just a handful of ingredients atop the bubbling dough, like a white pizza with hen-of-the-woods mushrooms and sweet onion or our absolute favorite, the green pizza with fresh basil, onion, frilly mustard greens, and lemon zest ($23-25).
Cocktails The Campari and Prosecco with orange (no name, just an emoji of a hand making a very Italian gesture) is a must. We also loved the Roman Around—a mix of tequila, caramelly Averna, sweet Cocchi Americano liqueur, and fresh basil, peach, and lemon ($15).
Courtesy Adahlia Cole and Colin Peck, Courtesy Emma K Morris, Heahter Irwin
sommelier/former pro wrestler you’ll ever meet. Long before Barr was sommelier and general manager of SingleThread, a three-Michelin-star restaurant in Healdsburg, he performed as part of the Empire Wrestling Federation, home to chair-breaking, smack-talking, WWE-esque entertainers. (One of the many Easter eggs at the former Campo Fina space is a bathroom with tiny wrestlers printed on the wallpaper.) Barr’s collaborators at Molti Amici (Italian for “many friends”) include fellow SingleThread alum Sean McGaughey, who developed the menu with Barr, along with chef de cuisine Matthew Cargo and bar director Danielle Peters. It’s a winning combination, with an Italian-influenced menu that reflects the seasonal moment. At harvest time, this includes late-season tomatoes and corn, squash, and pears. The menu changes often, with items like a whole spatchcocked chicken with potatoes and mushrooms ($65) or a 20-ounce Wagyu strip steak ($120) meant for sharing, as well as wood-fired pizzas, either with seasonal items (corn, zucchini, tomatoes) or more traditional Margherita or sausage pizzas. The slim interior of the restaurant is charming, but it’s the patio where all the action happens. Fringed yellow umbrellas rim the bocce court, and banquettes with lime-striped cushions add a pastel Wes Anderson vibe. Molti Amici is a seersucker-suit-and-straw-hat moment with a little WrestleMania thrown in — just what you’d expect from a guy who can pour a bottle of Dom Pérignon with all the panache of Randy Savage. 330 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, moltiamici.com
Molti Amici's sunny back patio offers prime real estate for watching the action on the bocce courts. Left, Salads and wood-fired pizzas reflect the changing seasons.
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WINDSOR
Maison Porcella THIS CHARMING FAMILY-RUN gourmet shop and wine bar re-
cently started offering lunch during the week with golden croque madame sandwiches, pâtés and French bread, and other gourmet treats. They’re also pouring on the elegance in the evenings with regular soirées featuring chef Marc-Henri Jean-Baptiste’s house-cured salmon, duck pâte, and other delicacies. Everything feels sparkly and special, especially with warm hospitality from Marc-Henri’s wife, Maud Jean-Baptiste. The couple, who met when Marc-Henri was working at a highend restaurant along the French Côte d’Azur, have poured their heart into the business, a former catering kitchen transformed with French antiques (including Maud’s grandmother’s oak armoire and kitchen tools), shiny copper cases brimming with prepared foods to take home, and a thoughtful selection of French and local natural wines. The bar is becoming a regular hangout for the winemaker set, many of whom have been taken, as are we, with Marc-Henri and Maud’s earnest passion for their work and their shared love of French food—both delicacies and rustic luxuries like country pâté and pickles. More winemaker dinners are scheduled in the months to come, along with expanded hours. 8499 Old Redwood Hwy., Windsor. 707-955-5611, maisonporcella.com
Kim Carroll Kim Carroll
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WHERE THE PROS GO
Maud JeanBaptiste WITH FAMILY Marla Bakery. They keep this French girl well-fed with delicious croissants. We love and sell their bread, and our son Henri is always so happy with a chocolate brownie! WITH OUT-OF-TOWN GUESTS In Bodega Bay, Spud Point and Fisherman’s Cove are right next to each other. We love the chowder and fresh whole crabs. After, we get Rocky Road ice cream at Captain Davey’s coffee shop and head to the trails to look for whales. FOR BREAKFAST I have serious breakfast needs—no plain bagel with cream cheese for me. I get a jalapeño bagel with egg, bacon, and cheese, with Drew’s spicy mayo. Ta-da! ON A BIRTHDAY Willi’s Wine Bar! The staff are always smiling and remember my order. I love the duck confit and creamy polenta. Be sure to treat yourself to the delicious butterscotch crème brûlée.
The French-country interiors at Maison Porcella include antiques once belonging to owner Maud Jean-Baptiste's grandmother.
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HEALDSBURG
Second Story LAST DECEMBER, the night before chef Stu Stalker of
former world No. 1 restaurant NOMA left Copenhagen, he got a call from Little Saint owners Jeff and Laurie Ubben. The Healdsburg couple wanted the chef to head up a new upstairs restaurant called Second Story—one that didn’t include animal products of any kind on the menu. Stalker headed to Healdsburg with his family, and as soon as he saw the Little Saint space, he knew it was the right call. He spent a week touring the Little Saint farm and figuring out how to create a multicourse prix fixe menu of elevated, but not overly precious, vegan cuisine. The restaurant opened in July with a prix fixe menu, offering dishes like mushroom and squash skewers with smoked vegan butter and a tamarind glaze; one-bite tarts with pumpkin-seed “cheese”; fresh beans marinated in rose petal oil; and aebleskiver, a puffed Danish pancake with savory greens.
Inspired by NOMA One thing that I take away from 10 years there is respect for ingredients, and not seeing something as an expensive ingredient or cheap ingredient. It’s about the work you put into it. Obviously, all of the fermentation and preservation is a huge part of NOMA. Hopefully we can do both at Second Story. There’s no way we can use all the stuff from the farm, so we have to find ways of preservation that are achievable. Moving to Sonoma I love it here so far, and so does my family, which is the main thing for me. The quality of restaurants and the produce here—I’d been told this is all here, and now to see that it’s actually true is incredible. But it’s a lot hotter that I thought. I’m from northeast England, and we don’t go out in this kind of heat.
His first harvest Harvest season is all going to be a surprise for me here. I am mainly looking forward to it being warmer for longer. In Denmark, the summer just ends and maybe you get a month of autumn weather, and then it gets super cold. I’m gonna enjoy having the opportunity to explore the fall season for longer. -Heather Irwin
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Emily Dorio/Courtesy Second Story
Simply a restaurant I want people to leave thinking that this has been a great experience and a great meal, not just that this has been a great vegan meal. You’re taking the best of what’s in season now and presenting it in an extremely simple way and not hiding anything, but enhancing it as much as possible. Each dish takes you straight to the farm, and it tells you what time of year it is.
SANTA ROSA
The Goose & Fern
Below: Classic pub favorites Scotch eggs and fish & chips.
WHO KNEW SCOTCH EGGS
Heather Irwin
would be the crowd favorite at Railroad Square’s new Goose & Fern? Apparently, no one, because co-owner Clyde Hartwell can barely keep up with the popularity of the bar staple — an egg nested in a ball of sausage with a fried breadcrumb coating. It’s a belly-filler, and just one of many British-style gastropub dishes on the menu at the former Toad in the Hole bar. Hartwell, who speaks with a brogue as thick as his salt-andpepper beard, runs the come-asyou-are establishment with his wife, Brittany, a trained pastry chef. Hearty pints of ale, lager and stout (including Guinness, natch) are plentiful, alongside hard cider, wine, and sodas. But it’s the food that has us hooked. Fish and chips are the obvious go-to, and this version doesn’t disappoint. Crisp and perfectly fried in a beer-batter coating, it’s a whopper of a serving — half a rock cod — and includes a mess of hand-cut chips (i.e., fries) and zesty tartar sauce ($22). Sausage rolls ($10) are savory puff pastry logs filled with ground pork and perfect when dipped in spicy mustard. The show’s stars, however, are the savory pies ($18), including the headliner, a Guinness-braised beef pie served topped with mashed potatoes. Any leftovers are the ideal breakfast treat. 116 Fifth St., Santa Rosa. 707-843-4235. LOCA L’S GU IDE sonomamag.com 9
HEALDSBURG
Goodnight’s
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Clubby booths and excellent steaks and martinis from British-born chef David Lawrence, far right.
ComePlum/ Courtesy Goodnight’s Prime Steak + Spirits
SONOMA COUNTY HAS NEVER had a love affair with clubby steak houses—those manly, dimly lit, leather-scented altars of aged beef and expensive whiskey. While expensive steaks are certainly on many high-end local restaurant menus, local steak houses are more rare than a properly cooked filet mignon. The new Goodnight’s Prime Steak + Spirits, backed by wine mogul and entrepreneur Bill Foley, is precisely that kind of old-school, tufted banquette destination restaurant that no one particularly asked for, but everyone’s talking about. But this steakhouse has a Western twist. The two-story restaurant is inspired by Charles Goodnight, a rough-and-tumble Texas Ranger, cattle herder, and inventor of the chuckwagon. Diners eat under modern chandeliers that evoke a starry night on the plains, and glowing moons of incandescence move the eye to the open kitchen. From there, chef David Lawrence oversees the dishes and chats with guests acquainted with his work at restaurants 1300 on Fillmore and Black Bark BBQ. The steak house is a return to a familiar format for the Brit, who cut his chops at London steak houses with his Jamaican-born father. There’s no question steak is what you’re here for, and the 25-ounce ribeye is unctuous and perfectly seasoned. The menu also includes seafood and well-crafted vegetarian options, like the exceptional Muhammara roasted cauliflower. Seasoned heavily with za’atar seasoning, it’s a nice departure from beef. Mixologist Devon Espinosa heads a lighthearted beverage program. Cocktails lean on whiskey and bourbon, but an extensive menu of high-end American, Japanese, and other international liquor selections is aimed at connoisseurs. Star emblems throughout the restaurant, reminiscent of a Western sheriff’s badge, make it clear there’s a new steak house in town—one with a trigger finger itchy to impress. 113 Plaza St., Healdsburg. 707-543-1000, goodnightsrestaurant.com.
Above: chef David Lawrence in his element at the new highend steakhouse Goodnight's in Healdsburg. It's named for the Texas cowboy who invented the chuckwagon.
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GEYSERVILLE
Cyrus THIS IS CYRUS 2.0, really, since the Healdsburg original closed
a decade ago, then reopened last September as a dramatically reinvented concept in a former Sunsweet prune packing plant. It’s elegance perfected, as guests are guided through a Champagne and canapes reception, elaborate hors d’oeuvres at an interactive chef’s table in the kitchen, entrées in the main dining room, and finally, dessert in a room of chocolate with a molten candy fountain. Chef-owner Douglas Keane has brought back many from his original team, and a few signature dishes, including a gorgeous Billi Bi soup of slow-cooked mussels in a silky broth of heavy cream, butter, fennel, and saffron. The 20-course, $295 per person feast showcases Cal-Asian creations that embrace the five essential flavors: sweet, sour, salty, bitter and umami. That can mean delicate squares of raw shima aji (horse mackerel) set atop compressed watermelon radishes and sliced kumquat with sorrel, finger lime, ice lettuce, and shio koji. Or a silky oval of Hudson Valley foie gras drizzled in peach syrup—an already over-the-top rich dish elevated with warm steamed buns and salty-sweet white miso butter. Cyrus’s Bubble Lounge is open for walk-ins, offering wine and à la carte bites. 275 Hwy. 128, Geyserville. 707-723-5999, cyrusrestaurant.com.
Chad Surmick, John Burgess
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WHERE THE PROS GO
Nick Peyton DATE NIGHT PICK The Shuckery in Petaluma. It’s the complete package of ambience, food, and attitude, all cleverly created with a modest budget. WITH OUT-OF-TOWN GUESTS Diavola in Geyserville. It’s got such great food, even beyond the signature pizzas. I love the ambience created from nearly nothing— the charming clothes hanging on lines across the alley leading to their back patio. THAT’S SO SONOMA We are not a mono-culture. It is the reason I love living here. There’s such range, from the regional Mexican food at Mitote Food Park, to Spud Point Crab Company in Bodega Bay, to Canevari’s Delicatessen in Santa Rosa. FOOD TRUCK PICK I lived in Philadelphia for a while, so sometimes I jones for a cheesesteak, and nobody does them like Streetside Asian Grill. It’s a half-pound of grilled steak, lots of onions and peppers, and melty white American cheese on an Amoroso soft Italian roll.
At the second coming of his beloved Cyrus, chef Douglas Keane, center, brings back the magic.
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SANTA ROSA
Mandarin Kitchen IN A VILLAGE OUTSIDE HANOI,
John Burgess
Vietnam, an unassuming food vendor cooks what local chef Tony Ounpamornchai considers the best banh xeo he’s ever had. The sizzling Vietnamese crepes stuffed with seafood and vegetables have been a street-food staple for centuries, favored by farmers working long days in the fields. Ounpamornchai’s newest restaurant in Santa Rosa’s Montgomery Village shopping center (formerly Tony’s Galley) aims to evoke these types of experiences. He’s getting personal with the menu, pulling dishes from his childhood —learning to make his mother’s massaman curry or picking freshwater spinach from the pools surrounding his family’s floating home in Thailand. The restaurant celebrates the expansive culinary landscapes of Vietnam, Malaysia, Bali, Singapore, Cambodia, and Laos. Can’t-miss dishes include Ounpamornchai’s own version of banh xeo with prawns, bean sprouts, and cabbage; grilled sea bass wrapped in banana leaves; eggplant and sea scallops in soy and hoisin sauces; and the airy green tea cheesecake. 722 Village Court, Santa Rosa. 707-303-7007, mandarinkitchensr.com
John Burgess
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FIRST AND FOREMOST, Kapu is a tiki bar. You know, the kind with little grass huts as seating ar-
eas, island iconography, and fruit-forward rum drinks that will knock you on your caboose if you’re not careful. Kapu mixes and matches midcentury modern and pinup culture with island nostalgia, pirate booty, and tacky tiki elements everywhere. A large rectangular bar has open seating for a better view of the bartenders at work on their mysterious concoctions — the Fink Bomb, Tropical Itch, classic Mai Tai or Missionary’s Downfall. If you know tiki, you likely know Kapu owner/manager Michael Richardson. He came to Sonoma County in 2020 to oversee the beverage program at Burdock Bar in Healdsburg, where he wowed locals with outlandish tiki drinks he first created for the famous Frankie’s Tiki Room in Las Vegas. Chef Mike Lutz’s Hawaiian-inspired comfort food is ono-licious. After spending more than 20 years on the islands, he knows his grindz. Moody lighting makes it a little challenging to see the beauty of the food, but the flavors speak loud and clear. Poke nachos, fried noodles, and a tasty stuffed rockfish with sweet kabayaki Hollandaise are top picks. And the garlic chicken is a must-order, with crispy nuggets double-fried, bathed in shoyu, and sprinkled with furikake and crispy garlic. 132 Keller St., Petaluma. 707-559-3665, kapubar.com WHERE THE PROS GO
Michael Richardson FOOD TRUCK PICK There is a really good taco truck that parks at the end of Dry Creek during harvest called Los Plebes. You can’t beat it. DATE NIGHT Glen Ellen Star has a really decent wine list. You’re sitting outside, and it’s wonderful. TAKE THE KIDS Theere’s a little fish and chips spot in Bodega called The Birds Cafe. The kids love it out there. They get corn dogs and chicken fingers. WITH OUT-OF-TOWN GUESTS Diavola in Geyserville. It’s just good honest food. The flavor combos are great, and it’s right by the Geyserville Gun Club, a locals bar.
PETALUMA
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SANTA ROSA
L’Oro Di Napoli OPENING A NEW RESTAURANT is never easy, but the launch
of this family restaurant on downtown’s Fourth Street was a little bumpier than owners Domenico and Taylor De Angelis would have liked. L’Oro di Napoli opened quietly last summer but closed for a few weeks in fall for a quick reset with a new business partner. It reopened in late November with a fresh ambience, complete with art of a Naples street scene, and a renewed focus on Domenico De Angelis’s ingredient-driven pizza menu. The Naples-born chef knows what makes authentic Neapolitan pie, and he’s nailing it, night after night. The crust, blistered from a wood-fired oven, is puffy and crisp with an irresistible, slightly stretchy chew. The classic Margherita, topped with San Marzano tomatoes, mozzarella, and basil is a great place to start. Elsewhere on the menu, De Angelis takes some creative license with toppings but keeps the puffy, crispy, chewy crust. There’s always an of-the-moment salad, and De Angelis plans to add regular pastas as well. If it’s on special, don’t miss the milehigh lasagna, with sheets of housemade noodles layered in tomato sauce and béchamel—a dish as exciting as the pizza. 629 Fourth St., Santa Rosa. 707-293-9540, lorodinapolisr.com
WHERE THE PROS GO
Domenico & Taylor De Angelis
BEST BREAKFAST Mac’s Deli, across from the restaurant has quickly become a goto and has the best pancakes around, Taylor says. “They are the sweetest people, and the service is always amazing.” FOOD TRUCK FAVE Delicias Elenita on Sebastopol Road. The elote (street corn), quesadillas, and champurrado are favorites. DATE NIGHT Riviera Ristorante in Santa Rosa for pasta and the charcuterie platter. The bike-themed décor is a bonus.
John Burgess
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John Burgess
WHEN SEAN QUAN AND JENNY PHAN moved to Sonoma in
early 2021 for Quan to take a job at SingleThread, the couple realized they missed late-night socializing with other industry professionals. “We needed to find a way to hang out with people,” says Phan, “so we thought, ‘What the hell, we’ll just do it ourselves.’ ” And so Second Staff was born, with a core group of six friends and a stable of different, cheeky pop-up concepts, including RageCage fried chicken, Space Balls boba and street snacks, and Small Men, with sandwiches named after different trim models of the Honda Civic. Several friends have fine dining experience, so they recently launched a small-plates spinoff called FNCY + PNTS. Quan’s younger brother, Emmett, who is helping out in the kitchen while spending a gap year in Sonoma, calls FNCY + PNTS “the anti-tasting menu.” Diners carry cafeteria-style trays and choose dishes directly from the chefs. Nothing is over $15, and most dishes are less than that. It all feels very underground and understated—a food lover’s freestyle mix-tape of a meal. “Restaurants should be a reflection of the communities they are part of,” says Quan. “But they should also matter and provide an insight into the community that you wouldn’t normally see.” second-staff.com
VARIOUS LOCATIONS
Second Staff
WHERE THE PROS GO
Jenny Phan ON HER BIRTHDAY I'm a big fan of Tomi Thai in Windsor. They have a really intimate kitchen, like 200 square feet. And they just don't hold back on the flavors. I always get everything Thai spicy. LATE-NIGHT PICK I love going to this little Chinese place called Fantasy Restaurant in Petaluma. The owners, Vincent and Joanne Wu, are very friendly—like, my parents kind of friendly. You’ll get there at 9, and before you know it, you’re staying until midnight, chatting and talking. AT THE FARMERS MARKET I always detour to the mushrooms. I just like picking things up and smelling them, seeing if they're earthier or meatier. And if it's something I haven't tried before, I'll always buy it. Duncan's Mushrooms, which sells at Windsor and Sebastopol markets in the spring and summer, is my favorite. LOCA L’S GU IDE sonomamag.com 17
SEBASTOPOL
Goldfinch
WALKING INTO GOLDFINCH restaurant feels a little
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$18) including the gem-like fire-roasted beets with sweet caramelized yogurt, pistachios and pickled onions. Most smaller plates are plant-focused, like grilled maitake mushrooms with risotto, zucchini with burrata, or heirloom carrots with honey and garbanzo puree. Larger entrées, like the vegetarian ricotta tortellini with fava beans, peas, and asparagus in a delicata squash puree, are as beautiful as they are delicious. The restaurant opened in late May, so falling madly in love with Goldfinch feels a little premature. But we’re certainly ready for a second date. 119 S. Main St., Sebastopol. 707-827-9882, goldfinchsebastopol.com
John Burgess, Opposite: Courtesy Maison Healdsburg
like cheating. The former occupant, K & L Bistro, was a workhorse community restaurant that somehow managed to elevate simple dishes into Michelin-worthy meals. It was always there for us with strong martinis and French onion soup. When it closed in 2022, it was a tough goodbye—the end of a lovely culinary relationship. Less than a year later, Goldfinch has sashayed into its place. And it’s already stealing hearts. The interior has received a stunning makeover, with open wicker pendant lights casting a golden glow above cozy tall-backed booths.
Exposed brick walls and banquettes remain, but the tablecloths and carpet are long gone. It feels younger and fresher, a place for a date, perhaps, with plenty on the menu for all to enjoy. The drinks are just as strong, the staff just as experienced, and the large open kitchen with bar seating is just plain sexy. Dishes from chef Rodrigo Mendoza, formerly of Willi’s Seafood and El Charro Negro, are organized into bites, small shareable plates, and large sharable plates. Bites ($8 each) include focaccia pull-apart rolls with rosemary and a simple dish of cracked cucumber with tart yuzu vinegar. Stock up on the Small Shareables ($12 to
HEALDSBURG
Maison Healdsburg
GIVEN HEALDSBURG’S status
as the epicenter of Sonoma County’s swankiest food and drink, Evan and Jade Hufford, along with their business partner Ryan Knowles, were surprised the town didn’t have a wine bar. There were plenty of wine tasting rooms, innovative cocktail bars, pubs, and beer gardens. But a wine bar? Not since Bergamot Alley closed in 2018. Maison Healdsburg is open until 2 a.m. Friday to Tuesday and caters to a broad range of wine lovers. Old World selections focus on the Champagne and Burgundy regions of France, Germany, and Austria, and appear alongside elegant, nuanced favorites from the California coast. There is also a selection of old-vintage California wines, sourced at auction and from private collectors. Accompaniments include cheese platters, caviar with potato crisps and crème fraîche, smoked oysters, and salumi. Evan Hufford acknowledges it will take a little time to fill Maison’s cellar with the 800 to 1,000 wines they hope to carry. For now, the owners are happy to finally welcome guests through the door, especially those in the hospitality industry looking for a post-shift glass of wine. “There are some great bars in town, but none have the wine-forward vibe we were looking for,” Evan says. “We’re excited for Maison to fill that niche.” 210 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg. maisonwinebar.com
Sarah Davis
Above, from left, founders Ryan Knowles and Jade and Evan Hufford first met working at SingleThread. Their new wine bar stays open until until 2 a.m. LOCA L’S GU IDE sonomamag.com 19
SANTA ROSA
Mitote Food Park
YEARS IN THE MAKING, this 7½-acre culinary paradise fully
opened just last summer. Set in the heart of the predominantly Latino community of Roseland, a gathering of food trucks entices with tastes of Oaxaca, Jalisco, Michoacán, Yucatán, and Mexico City. There’s also a vibrant al fresco bar, live music, and an adjacent craft market. Mitote is an incubator for Latino-owned businesses, giving entrepreneurs like the food truck owners support to establish success. Crowds throng to some 10 trucks, including Lucha Sabina (fabulous wild mushroom tlayudas and molotes), La Victoria (brilliant zucchini and pumpkin-blossom quesadillas on housemade tortillas), Maria Machetes (wildly good griddled hot dog draped with bacon, mayonnaise and queso), and Gio y Los Magos (decadent enchiladas Michoacánas served with roast chicken and potatoes). Colorful papel picado banners decorate the picnic tables, and savvy diners load up with bites from several different vendors and always share plates to uncover flavors like huaraches loaded with cactus and chiles or quesadillas stuffed with huitlacoche, an earthy, savory mushroom-like delicacy. For a sweet finish, hit up La Churroteka, for impossibly light, crispy churros stuffed with chocolate, caramel, or creamy condensed milk. 665 Sebastopol Rd., Santa Rosa. mitotefoodpark.com
WHERE THE PROS GO
Octavio Díaz
FOR A BIRTHDAY Sazón, the Peruvian restaurant in Santa Rosa. I really like the ceviche– there are a half-dozen choices. And the owner, José Navarro, is so interesting. He's always running around like crazy, like he's wearing three different hats at the same time. It reminds me of me. DATE NIGHT My wife and I like Union Hotel in Santa Rosa. It’s got a great ambience and it serves a really nice rotisserie-roasted Mary’s chicken, with lots of Italian spices, lemon, and fresh garlic. THE DISH I ORDER AGAIN AND AGAIN Mole de Oaxaca. It’s a celebration of the spices in life, so when I eat it, it reminds me of celebrating my own life and bringing my family together. The mole Oaxaqueño from El Gallo Negro in Windsor is made with more than 20 ingredients. DINING WITH KIDS My sons are 15 and 16, and they're pretty involved in our family restaurant businesses, but they also like to play soccer. After a game, we often go to Caffe Giostra in Petaluma for Italian food.
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Erik Castro
Tacos from the Lucha Sabina truck at Mitote Food Park.
THE BURGERS at new
lunchtime go-to Lunch Box are the kind of messy, smushy, everything-good-about-beef burgers, especially paired with “dirty fries,” a pile of crispy fries, chèvre ranch dressing, bacon, green onion, roasted garlic, and pepperoncini. You’ll need a handful of napkins and a stout appetite. (You can get the fries plain with ketchup or garlic-chili aioli, but really, why would you?) We love that our vegetarian friends can have the same messy, delicious burger experience with a Beyond patty. Lunch Box will even do a vegan version to make the whole thing extra inclusionary. Owners Derek and Meghan Harn launched the business as a pop-up burger grill at local breweries and quickly found a following. They moved into a brick-and-mortar location at the former East West Café in Sebastopol last fall. In addition to burgers, dirty fries, and fried chicken sandwiches, the menu also features a perfectly dialed-in seasonal salad—recently with local butter lettuce, housesmoked chicken, chives, and pickled red onions. The owners prepare almost everything inhouse, including bacon, special sauce, and French fries. They also cure their own pastrami and grind their own meat. 128 N. Main St., Sebastopol. lunchboxsonomacounty.com
SEBASTOPOL
Heather Irwin
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SEBASTOPOL
Piala Restaurant and Wine Bar THE TINY, RUSTIC HIDEAWAY serves Georgian cuisine
from the Eastern European republic, alongside rare Georgian and European wines. Owner Jeff Berlin has created a casual, cozy place that invites you to hang out and play, though he takes his work very seriously. Before opening, he flew in a consulting chef from Georgia to teach his full-time chef how to make the unfamiliar-sounding dishes as authentically as possible. It’s hard to resist a clay crock of steaming-hot chashushuli, a soulful, aromatic stew of lamb head and neck with potatoes, tomatoes, chickpeas, and lots of spices and herbs. Try the classic Georgian dumplings, too, stuffed with spiced beef and pork, kale and ricotta. And chvishtari, crisp-edged golden corn cakes oozing melted cheese, served with a side of lobio, a fragrant, garlicky bean stew for dunking. Note: Berlin’s business partner is Lowell Sheldon, who has been accused of sexual harassment and assault. 7233 Healdsburg Ave., Sebastopol. 707-861-9186, pialanaturalwine.com
WHERE THE PROS GO
Jeff Berlin
WITH OUT OF TOWN GUESTS The Marshall Store in Marshall. We like to kayak to Point Reyes and back, sit outside by the water, eat everything on the menu (Tomales Bay Oyster Company oysters!) and put a serious dent in their beer inventory. THE DISH I ORDER AGAIN AND AGAIN The mofongo relleno de camarones from Sol Food in Petaluma. So much flavor, perfectly balanced with mashed green plantain and avocado. I load it up with their spicy vinegar sauce and have a Mason jar full of housemade fruit punch, and then I take a nice fat nap with a huge smile on my face. FOOD TRUCK PICK Anything from Mitote Food Park. Order something from every truck, and mezcal cocktails from the bar. I really like cochinita pibil tacos with pickled habaneros from Yuca Mami. DINE WITH KIDS Fisherman’s Cove in Bodega Bay. My boys love seeing the anglers unload their catch and bring it right across the street to the cafes. It’s the best place for the freshest seafood possible.
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John Burgess, Courtesy Piala
Piala offers a variety of rare Georgian dishes.
WHERE THE PROS GO
Leith LeiserMiller
SEBASTOPOL
Psychic Pie
THESE CHEW Y, CRISPY, double-baked, rectangular Roman-style
Erik Castro
pizzas first captured our heart as a pandemic takeout offering, and we were over the moon when a brick-and-mortar location opened in Sebastopol. The menu here changes weekly, with options dreamed up by husband-wife owners Nicholi Ludlow and Leith Leiser-Miller that celebrate the season. Farm-fresh toppings include chèvre with fresh lemon and herbs; potato with chile oil, mozzarella, and crème fraîche; and hot coppa with Estero Gold cheese, mozzarella and hot honey. There’s always one vegan selection, several vegetarian choices and a couple of meaty slices. The pizzas are sold by weight (order by the finger width—three fingers wide is a good small slice and runs about $7) and trying different options is encouraged. “We’re a slice house, and we want people to have fun, just have a little levity. We want them to come eat good food, hang out, chill and maybe have a drink and just be happy,” Ludlow says. “We’re not fine dining, and we’re not looking to make anyone intimidated.” The couple launched Psychic Pie as a side hustle while working full time at San Francisco’s Del Popolo pizzeria, perfecting their recipe for a chewy-crispy, naturally fermented sourdough crust. They sold out completely by word of mouth and a business was born. “We want to be a mom-and-pop and focus on this community,” Ludlow says. “Everyone is warm and fun, and we want to continue to support the people here.” 980 Gravenstein Hwy. S., Sebastopol. 707827-6032, psychicpie.com
FOR A BIRTHDAY The gift we always give each other is a fancy dinner out. This year, we went to Troubadour in Healdsburg and had their prix fixe. It was incredible, and it was also interesting to see how they transform their service from a bakery to a brasserie. WITH OUT-OF-TOWN GUESTS Jam’s Joy Bungalow in Sebastopol. I love the flavors that Jamilah Nixon-Mathis makes—she really pushes the boundaries. FOOD TRUCK PICK Galvan’s Eatery. They make awesome tacos. I love the crispy shrimp. I even get them for breakfast. I don’t bother with a breakfast burrito—I just go straight for the tacos. AT THE FARMERS MARKET We go to the Sebastopol market for cheeses, produce, and pantry goods. I always love Radical Family Farms—they grow a breadth of things that are harder to find, like traditional Asian greens.
Above: A summertime white pizza with potatoes and dill, served by the inch, Roman style. LOCA L’S GU IDE sonomamag.com 23
Co-owners Geneva Melby and Ryan Miller at their natural wine bar.
WHERE THE PROS GO
Geneva Melby
FOOD TRUCK After hours, I like to grab a torta or tacos from El Roy's. Lengua is usually my meat of choice. DATE NIGHT We love sitting at the bar for Wednesday burger night at Spinster Sisters in Santa Rosa.
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The
Redwood
YOUNG RESTAURATEURS AND BAR OWNERS in
Sebastopol are contributing to a forward-thinking food scene unlike any other, and that includes the city’s newest spot, a natural-wine bar with excellent food called The Redwood. Owners Geneva Melby and Ryan Miller (both alums of local Thai standout Khom Loi) know exactly what the next generation of wine drinkers want in their glasses. These new-school sippers are, in simple terms, an un-futzed-around-with style of wine that stands in contrast to the helicopter-parent winemaking of Napa and Sonoma. They’re food-friendly and often remain unfiltered, giving them an often funky, un-winelike quality. Melby is an excellent chef, whipping up stunning nibbles as well as bigger entrées for dinner. The menu is divided into snacks, small plates, big plates, and desserts and guests are welcome to eat, drink or both. The Redwood’s Route One Pita and Dips include a lineup of smoky baba ghanoush, hummus, and herbed labneh that you’ll crave for days afterwards. Dishes like scallop crudo tart with slices of kumquat, fennel, and drips of fennel frond sauce is chef’s-kiss good. The menu changes seasonally, but will continue to include snacky tinned fish with potato chips and pickles, and heartier, vegetable-forward dishes and risottos. 234 S. Main St., Sebastopol. 707-861-9730, theredwoodwine.com
Christopher Chung
THE PLACES I GO TO AGAIN AND AGAIN Too much good food! On our days off, not a ton is open, but I love dim sum so we'll go to Hang Ah in Santa Rosa. And then when I'm craving larb or pad kee mao, I hit up Khom Loi in Sebastopol. And also PizzaLeah in Windsor for the square pie with hot honey and peppers. Breakfast at Willow Wood in Graton for a scramble and a cappucino. Or El Molino Central in Boyes Hot Springs, especially when they have lamb tacos.
SEBASTOPOL
SONOMA
Sonoma Eats
SONOMA EATS OWNER Efrain Balmes arrived in Sonoma
County in 2007 with nothing but a dream and a drive to make something of himself. Though it’s a worn archetype, it exemplifies the vineyard-worker-to-business-owner hopes of many in the Agua Caliente community. Balmes’s Oaxacan eatery serves up elevated basics like a mole enchilada with intense flavors—chocolate, roasted chiles, nuts and potent herbs—mixed into an almost black sauce and cooked slowly over several days. Simple shrimp tacos are served with a light aioli studded with juicy tomatoes. This dish is restrained rather than over-seasoned and drowning in toppings to mask cheap ingredients. Generous beer-battered Baja fish tacos made with catfish beats the pants off more traditional cod, while Balmes’s chipotle aioli lends sweet heat. Vegan mushroom tacos are so much more than a concession to the moment, elevated with avocado and salsa verde. They’re also great in the mix with other à la carte tacos, including carne asada, chicken, carnitas, al pastor, chorizo, and nopales. At Barking Dog Roasters, 18133 Sonoma Hwy., Sonoma. 707-939-1905; sonomaeatsmex.com
WHERE THE PROS GO
Efrain Balmes
LATE NIGHT I go to Palooza in Kenwood. I like their hamburgers; they’re the best. You don’t need to dress up, and they have a really good selection of beers that they make right there. DATE NIGHT Salt & Stone in Kenwood, because I like the menu. They change it up a lot, so it’s not the same boring things over and over. I also really like the cocktails. It’s a great ambiance to relax in. FOOD TRUCK El Roy’s in Petaluma. I can just go on my way and grab a quick lunch, and I can eat it in my car. Plus they have a good selection of tacos that are different than mine. BREAKFAST FAVORITE I go to Sunflower Caffe every week. They have a really good breakfast. I get avocado toast, a latte, and a mimosa and always eat outside on summer mornings.
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HEALDSBURG
Troubadour THIS POP-UP dinner restaurant is refreshingly single-minded in its vision of elevated French bistro cuisine. A side project of chef Sean McGaughey, the intimate, multicourse dinner is served five nights a week in the same space as the nibble-size bakery he and wife Melissa Yanc founded in 2021. The couple is also behind the buzzy Quail & Condor bakery that opened locally in 2020 and Molti Amici in the former Campo Fina. Yep, that’s four concepts in less than two years for the SingleThread alums. The menu isn’t Cal-French or Mediterranean-French or another fusion. It’s just French, with all the unpronounceable but delicious sauces that have been perfected over centuries. McGaughey and his small team cook seasonal, locally sourced dishes such as duck à l’orange with crisp salty skin, Wagyu steak tartare with a cured egg yolk, petite escargot served in a Limoges teacup with creamy velouté and roasted garlic, and a thick tomato slice with tart sauce vierge and caviar. The small kitchen at Troubadour, lacking a grill and many other staples of a restaurant kitchen, forces the team to think creatively and keep things simple. The four best seats in the house are at the counter facing Healdsburg Avenue. There, you can watch people go by (and be watched, eating) in the evening hours. More private seats at the bakery counter are better for intimate dining, and groups of up to four can sit at a communal table. The vibe is a mix of irreverence (don’t miss the homage to Andre the Giant in the bathroom) and old-school French, with antique mix-and-match plates and a clubby San Francisco cafe atmosphere. 381 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg. 707-756-3972, troubadourhbg.com
Heather Irwin, Emma K. Morris/Courtesy Troubadour
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WHERE THE PROS GO
Melissa Yanc
TAKE THE KIDS Psychic Pie is our favorite. The food is like bakers made it, like a person who understands the physical science made it. The locally sourced ingredients and interesting desserts seal the deal for our family. FOOD TRUCK Delicias Elenita. The food is so solid and for the price point, a lot of seating is available on site, and it feels like you’re somewhere else. GOODIES AT LOCAL FARMERS MARKETS Herbs! They’re so potent, no matter the vendor. It’s the purest of pure flavor. WITH OUT-OF-TOWN GUESTS Lo & Behold in Healdsburg is a great one, especially in warmer seasons when you can sit on the patio. It’s also kid friendly and good for groups.
Elegant French cuisine at Troubadour, a sandwich shop that transforms into a buzz-worthy supper club five nights a week.
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SEBASTOPOL
Marvin’s BBQ & Deli
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John Burgess, Courtesy Bloom Carneros
THERE ARE TWO WAYS you can know you’ve arrived at Marvin’s BBQ & Deli. The first is you’ll smell the fragrance of smoke and meat wafting through the parking lot. The second is you’ll see Marvin himself, slicing a juicy tri-tip behind the counter and sporting hot pink stripes through his beard. His unmistakable silhouette is on a giant sign outside. Mckinzy has spent a lifetime loving and learning the art of barbecue, starting with his stepfather’s backyard grill in Kentucky. As a kid, he was encouraged to help with steaks and simple meaty fare, instilling in him a perfectionist passion for barbecue. “I’m from the South. But in California, I’ve learned a lot of things. I call my style ‘blended barbecue,’ going back and forth with different things,” he says. Marvin’s BBQ & Deli opened in early July, offering Mckinzy’s signature tri-tip, pork ribs, pulled pork and barbecued chicken alongside jalapeño cornbread and and pies from a local baker. His baked beans, inspired by his stepfather’s recipe, are sweet, smoky perfection. He uses Short Momma’s Barbecue Sauce, made in Santa Rosa. If you see a police car or fire truck in the parking lot, don’t panic. Local first responders are currently competing to see who can eat the most barbecue. “It’s a little friendly competition,” Mckinzy said. “I like to keep things exciting.” 495 S. Main St., Sebastopol. 707-291-4987.
AT THE BEGINNING OF LAST SUMMER, owner Jordan Kivelstadt decided the former Kivelstadt Cellars WineGarten & Eatery needed its own name. At the renamed Bloom Carneros, the creative, CalMed menu from chef Jennifer McMurry is so expertly crafted that it can be hard for newbie customers to score a seat amid all the regulars flocking in. Previously open only for lunch, the garden-centric destination on Highway 12/121 now serves dinner, too. Kivelstadt scored a coup in landing chef McMurry, a Sonoma County native. She works magic with simple, seasonal, local ingredients in playful recipes that burst with upscale flavor. Chill out with clever mortadella corn dogs or fried chicken bites dolloped in whipped Bellwether Farms ricotta and housemade Calabrian chile jam. Or fancy things up with burrata and pea shoot pesto over arugula, followed by a bowl of glazed pork belly with grilled henof-the-woods mushrooms, pistachio pesto, burrata, radicchio salsa verde, and nasturtium flowers. Bring your kids and puppies, too. The garden is a perfect playland and offers a kid menu. And—how cool is this—the kitchen treats canines like royalty, with their own menu of rice, veggies, and chicken. 22910 Broadway, Sonoma. 707-412-0438, bloomcarneros.com SONOMA
Bloom Carneros
WHERE THE PROS GO
Jennifer McMurry
FOR A BIRTHDAY The upscale Table Culture Provisions in Petaluma. I’m super excited about what chef-owner Stéphane Saint Louis is doing to change the culinary scene in Sonoma County. DATE NIGHT Ramen Gaijin in Sebastopol is always delicious, and their vegan ramen with shiitake miso is one of my absolute favorites. THAT’S SO SONOMA Try grilled oysters at Handline in Sebastopol. It’s a great space, with a fun indoor-outdoor open flow. CHEAP EATS I love Kathmandu Cafe & Grill, in the old train station in downtown Sebastopol. They serve authentic, traditional Indian food. LOCA L’S GU IDE sonomamag.com 29
SEBASTOPOL
Oyster WHO KNOWS SEAFOOD better than a sushi chef? Chef Jake
Rand, owner and sushi master at the popular Sushi Kosho at The Barlow in Sebastopol, opened a sister restaurant across the street last November. The Parisian-style oyster bar and seafood spot has beautiful outdoor patio seating and recently expanded into a larger indoor space next door. Oysters are, not surprisingly, a highlight of the menu. They’re served raw, baked, and fried. The rest of the menu leans on sustainable shellfish, fish, prawns and octopus, all named “best choices” by the Monterey Bay Aquarium’s Seafood Watch. Rand brings awareness to aquafarmed seafood—controlled cultivation of fish and bivalves in water. He also promotes the eating of filter feeders like oysters, mussels, and clams, which help keep ocean water clean, sequester carbon, and can protect shores from erosion. Sustainability doesn’t always mean deliciousness, but here, you don’t have to compromise. Rand’s chile-dusted calamari with a kicked-up rémoulade sauce, a hearty oyster po’boy sandwich with a creamy lemon slaw, and seared scallops with brown butter are familiar yet luxurious. He makes his own aioli and cocktail sauce and has added fish and chips with duck-fat fries to the menu. Be sure to grab a bottle of bubbly to go with those oysters. 6751 McKinley St., Sebastopol. Instagram.com/oyster_sebastopol
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WHERE THE PROS GO
Jake Rand
TAKE THE KIDS We like to go to Rosso Pizzeria for pizza and spaghetti, plus they get to make their own breadsticks! WITH OUT-OF-TOWN GUESTS It depends on how much they want to spend, but I think SingleThread is a terrific choice for visitors, with fantastic hospitality. It’s a really special experience. FOOD TRUCK Delicias Elenita taco truck. I always get their tacos and they’re consistently juicy and delicious. CHEAP EATS East West Cafe on Summerfield Road in Santa Rosa is convenient and inexpensive, and their turkey burger is great.
AT PETALUMA’S NEW WATERFRONT restaurant Luma, which debuted in late 2022, owner Jazmine
Kim Carroll, Wool + Son/Courtesy Luma
Lalicker, co-owner of The Shuckery, gives proteins a supporting role. “We’re working to move cuts of meat that typically wouldn’t sell, so they’re not going to waste. Everyone buys duck breast, but not the wings,” Lalicker says. The petite 4-ounce servings are a side note for braised greens, mushroom gnocchi, or vegetable flatbreads. Luma’s succulent Liberty Duck wings are slow-cooked in fat and seasonings for a rich, meaty duck rillette. Luma’s mostly meatless menu is overseen by chef and (maybe a little ironically) butcher Travis Day, who used to own Petaluma’s Thistle Meats. The revamped 3,600-square-foot interior is filled with soft organic colors, modern furnishings and a spectacular new bar as well as a heated patio overlooking the river. The main menu is broken into sections with snacks ($8 to $10), appetizers ($14 to $22), mains ($24 to $28) and sweets ($12). Mixing, matching and sharing are highly suggested. Favorite dishes include braised greens and beans ($28) with charred cabbage, Swiss chard and beans in broth, and pillowy gnocchi ($24) with roasted sunchokes and mushrooms. Mixologist Alfie Turnshek heads a well-thought-out bar program with a large selection of low- or no-alcohol concoctions with fresh herbs, juices, and syrups. The refreshing Changeling includes aquavit, gin with a pineapple-vanilla infusion, Icelandic yogurt, lemon, and fennel liqueur for a drink that’s remarkably refreshing yet creamy and warming. A new favorite is the Hard Aport with bourbon, rye, Port, espresso, and orange oil. “We want people to understand that we are here to listen to them. We want to make this a place you want to go. I think Petaluma is ready for this,” Lalicker says. 50 E. Washington St., Petaluma. 707-772-5037, lumaeatery.com PETALUMA
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SANTA ROSA
Vine Burgers
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John Burgess
WHEN JAMES BYUS III swung open the doors of Vine Burgers last March, his mission was to make the best burgers in town. Those in the know seek out the unassuming strip mall location tucked behind a weedy field that was the K-Mart before the Tubbs fire. It’s a gritty landscape that belies the quality food that Byus and his small team turn out each day. There’s a burger here for everyone, from basic beef to feta-topped lamb with meat sourced from Sonoma County Meat Co. A selection of seafood sandwiches, including lump crab cakes and a Cajun tuna burger, are made inhouse from scratch with seafood from local purveyors. There's also a great veggie burger made in-house, plus interesting salads and robust sides, including mayo-slathered street corn and housemade fried pickles. Regulars know to order a side of fried cheese curds from the “secret” menu, a once-in-a-while special that was so over-the-top good that Byus made it a permanent addition—dine-in only, though. Byus offers a succinct but super-appealing globe-spanning wine list. There’s also a rotating list of craft beer on tap so burgers can be washed down the way they were meant to be—with a cold pint of suds. 3579 Industrial Dr., Santa Rosa. 707-536-9654, vineburgers.com
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