Foodie Journal Love at First Sip

Love at First Sip

From left: Starbright Wine Founder and CEO Rachel Katz. The Lil Fizz by No Fine Print, available through Starbright Wine.

Starbright Wine founder shares her wine-shopping tips for Valentine’s Day and beyond

One-on-one support meets speedy, local delivery (or pickup) with Starbright Wine, which launched in Atlanta in fall 2021. Customers can choose wines online or chat with Starbright’s certified experts to build a taste profile. If you live within Atlanta’s city limits, your order can be delivered in as little as two hours. Here, we spoke with Founder and CEO Rachel Katz about choosing the perfect wines for Valentine’s Day.

What advice do you have for choosing wine suited to someone’s tastes? The biggest pattern I see with wine buying is either going with what looks the most approachable (buying by the label) or going for a bottle based solely on the grape you’re most familiar with. What we love about our personalized one-on-one shopping support is we are able to dig into what the customer likes and suggest bottles they may not otherwise have chosen. The biggest misconception is that if you like one Pinot Noir, for example, you’ll like all Pinot Noir. While there are common flavors and tasting notes that connect varietals, so much can vary based on where the wine is grown, the weather, soil, practices, fermentation and aging. We encourage customers to shop by taste preferences first.

What are the top three wines you’d recommend for Valentine’s day? So many options! For a little bit of a romantic splurge, I love the Clos de Betz Bordeaux Blend from the Betz Family. It’s a sexy wine with ripe, rich berries, chocolate and a hint of nutty vanilla. Decant it to let the air open it up and sip on it all night.

The Callie from Une Femme wines is always a good idea. You can buy a bottle for $32, or individual pony bottles for $11. It’s dry and crisp with berries and a toasty caramel finish. Best of all, proceeds from every purchase go to Dress for Success.

Lastly, not everyone is in the mood for red wine or bubbles, and that to me is where this Roussanne comes in. The Lawrence Vineyard Roussanne from Latta Wines is a round and smooth white wine, a perfect side-step for an unoaked Chardonnay drinker (or anyone really). It has balanced acidity and salinity, and citrus, floral notes. It’s a steal of a wine that drinks above its pay grade ($35) with beautiful intensity and drinkability.

Do you offer gifting and tasting options? We take the heavy lifting away from gifting, whether for friends and family or clients and employees. We can curate wine gift sets, wrap them up and get them to where they need to go without your lifting a finger. We also do events and tastings if you’re looking for something fun and different to do with your loved ones, partner or friends. n

Starbright Wine starbrightwine.com @starbrightwine

FOOD NEWS

n Dunwoody’s first rooftop bar, Bar Peri, is now open at the AC Hotel Atlanta Perimeter. Stop by for skyline views and a menu of tapas and bites (think: a charcuterie board and flatbreads), plus craft cocktails, beers and boutique wines. barperi.com n Florida-based meal service Fitlife Foods is now open in Buckhead’s Tuxedo Festival plaza, offering chef-prepared meals and snacks for pickup. Choose from pre-portioned small, medium and large sizes, labeled with nutritional information and ingredients. eatfitlifefoods.com n Coastal restaurant Carmel is set to open in Buckhead Village in the second half of this year. Helmed by Oliva Restaurant Group, the team behind Rina, Aziza, Falafel Nation and Bellina Alimentari, the restaurant will serve lunch, dinner and weekend brunch. olivarestaurants.com Pumpkin-pie-spiced winter squash gelato, served here in a profiterole.

WINTER BITES

Bacchanalia’s Chef Anne Quatrano shares her recipe for pumpkin-pie-spiced winter squash gelato

Who says you can’t enjoy frozen treats in winter? Not us—and certainly not Chef Anne Quatrano, whose pumpkin-pie-spiced winter squash gelato is available on the menu at Bacchanalia this winter.

2 tsp salt 3 1/2 tbsp dextrose 1/3 cup + 1 tbsp nonfat dry milk 1 cup sugar 1 cup heavy cream 6 cups milk 1 tsp vanilla 1 tsp pumpkin spice 2 cup roasted squash purée (recipe below)

In a saucepan, add all the dry ingredients, including the spices. Mix well with a whisk. Stir in the milk and heavy cream. Bring to a boil and let simmer on low heat for 10–15 minutes. Add the squash purée and vanilla. Stir until incorporated. Let sit for 5 minutes then strain through a fine sieve. Cool completely. Freeze according to your ice cream machine manufacturer's instructions.

FOR THE PURÉE

1/2 butternut or similar winter squash (seeds removed) 1/4 cup brown sugar 3 tbsp sugar 4 oz butter 1 tsp salt

Roast squash at 350°F for 45 minutes to 1 hour until soft. Scoop out flesh and purée in a food processor with brown sugar, sugar, butter and salt.

Bacchanalia 404.365.0410 starprovisions.com/bacchanalia @starprovisions

The Duke of

DUNWOODY

DASH Hospitality’s David Abes strives to make The Village Dunwoody the heart of the community

STORY: Carly Cooper

David Abes’ resume speaks for itself. Having worked as director of operations at Here To

Serve Restaurants, regional director of operations at LDV Hospitality and

COO at Buckhead Life Restaurant

Group, he knows a thing or two about managing restaurants. Launching his own company, DASH Hospitality Group, in 2016, was a natural next step. Now Abes is taking his business even closer to home with the creation of The Village Dunwoody, a communal entertainment district with four restaurants and a bar surrounding a 30,000-square-foot central courtyard in his hometown.

“I’ve been working on this for almost three years now,” he says. “I want it to be a central meeting spot for Dunwoody, a place my wife and I can hang out with our friends.”

Opening in three phases, the Village debuted recently with Bar(n), a rustic wine-and-whiskey bar serving charcuterie and small plates. This spring, barbecue spot Morty’s Meat & Supply, named for Abes’ grandfather, and casual Tex-Mex restaurant Cuco’s Cantina will open with a “Homework Happy Hour” discounting tacos and other snacks to entice high schoolers to come by from 4 to 5 p.m. (Those hungry to try the eats before the brick-and-mortar opens can stop by the shared food truck Thursdays through Sundays.) In the fall, Mediterranean eatery Yoffi and beachy seafood restaurant Message in a Bottle

FUN FACT

Abes once dined with basketball legend Michael Jordan at The Capital Grille in Charlotte, N.C., 10 years ago, after meeting at nowdefunct Twist in Atlanta.

will launch, rounding out the options.

But Abes stresses that The Village is more than a collection of restaurants. He hopes the courtyard will serve as a community meeting space, a place to listen to live music, watch a ball game on the big screen or gather for festivals. “These spaces were all retail; we’re converting them to a place with heart,” he says.

We spoke to him to learn more about his work and his personal life.

Aside from The Village Dunwoody, what does DASH do? We have 17 clients right now. We’ve worked with Slutty Vegan, Ray’s on the River and True Story Brands (Yebo, Biltong Bar). We work on everything from startups and marketing to backoffice systems and operational issues.

What else are you working on? I’m opening a bistro called The Usual with Nick Leahy (owner of Nick’s Westside) in Arya on Peachtree. Nick used to own Saltyard nearby, so it’s going back to the neighborhood for him.

Your wife owns Batter Cookie Dough Counter. Are your children interested in the hospitality industry as well? My daughter is 24. She’s finishing her doctorate in occupational therapy in South Carolina. My son is 21. He’s a senior at the University of Maryland studying marketing communications. He interned at beverage wholesaler United Distributors and loved it.

What do you do for fun? I love to travel. Just recently, my family went to Napa Valley; Margate, New Jersey; and 30-A on the panhandle of Florida. I still play basketball and golf once in a blue moon.

What are your favorite Buckhead restaurants? Yebo is great at what they do. I like Tuk Tuk and Aria. Gerry Klaskala (owner of Aria) is a rockstar. n

THE VILLAGE DUNWOODY

770-338-6992 thevillagedunwoody.com @thevillagedunwoody

FEATURED RESTAURANTS

A sampling of great eats in and around Buckhead

BY: Wendell Brock, Rebecca Cha, Jennifer Bradley Franklin, Angela Hansberger, Hope S. Philbrick

PHOTOS:

Sara Hanna, Joann Vitelli

THE ALDEN

Chamblee's popularity as a residential and dining destination seems to be on the rise, and Chef Jared Hucks is here to make sure diners eat like royalty. Winning starters include a homemade bread plate with prosciutto butter and cheddar pimento cheese, silky sweet potato bisque and sashimi quality seared scallops. For mains, go with the cold smoked salmon, Moroccan-spiced shrimp and grits or the hickory smoked Brasstown coulotte steak. Desserts are deliciously unique. If you’ve got belly room to spare, be sure to witness the chef’s gastro-theatrics with the banana bread pudding service. Our favorite was the lunar chocolate, which the chef calls his “dessert moonscape.” Smaller dishes: $11-$21 Larger dishes: $23-$45 Desserts: $9-$15 Chef’s tasting menu: seven courses/$95 thealdenrestaurant.com

BABYLON CAFÉ

When Iraqi native Saad Marwad and his wife, Kelly Rafia, opened Babylon Café in 2014, the city’s foodie community started to buzz about the couple’s fresh, flavorful repertoire of Middle Eastern classics, from falafel and hummus to kebabs and baklava. While the starters are quite good—try the fattoush salad, the lentil soup and the eggplant badenjan—the earthy, long-simmered stews are unlike anything else in town. We like the herb-based qurma sabzi with super-tender lamb shank and the bamia (okra and tomatoes) with oxtail. Don’t leave without a sip of the anise-flavored aperitif called arak and a bite of kanafeh, a sweet made of shredded phyllo, housemade sweet cheese, rose- and orange-water syrup and pistachios. Appetizers and sides: $2-$7 Entrees: $12-$20 babyloncafeatl.com

BIG SKY BUCKHEAD

The laid-back cattle ranch decor in this West Village hotspot is the perfect foil for top-notch Tex-Mex-meets-Deep-South eats. Specialty cocktails served up by fresh-faced mixologists combined with events such as Wednesday trivia nights, game-day viewing parties and weekend brunches with all-you-can-drink mimosas make Big Sky Buckhead a favorite urban escape. Best-in-class dishes such as the Big Sky Nachos, Goose Island IPA wings, Original Burger and Buffalo Chicken Sandwich are good enough to brand this place in your memory forever. Good to know: Big Sky is a cashless establishment, so don’t forget your alt-currency. Also, free on-site parking spots are limited, so consider carpooling or ridesharing. Starters: $4-$12 Salads, sandwiches and tacos: $11-$13 Entrees: $15-$19 Brunch items: $12-$15 bigskybuckhead.com

Say hello to some of Westside's finest brisket, Brunswick stew and barbeque ribs, from DAS BBQ. Ecco's interpretation of classic scampi includes perfectly al dente bucatini, Georgia shrimp and Sapelo Island clams.

CASI CIELO

Casi cielo translates to “almost heaven,” and it’s a fitting description for this sophisticated Sandy Springs Oaxacan eatery. You’d be loco to miss the tender, charcoal grilled octopus, earthy portobello or mahi-mahi tacos, the crunchy plantain croquettes or buttery Chilean sea bass. Equally enticing is the world-class mezcal collection and the exotic cocktails made with favorite brands such as Alipus, Nucano and Gracias a Dios. The gracious staff epitomizes high-bar professionalism. Appetizers, soups and salads: $6- $18 Quesadillas, tacos and bowls: $12- $18 Main dishes: $15-$43 Desserts: $9 casicieloatl.com

DAS BBQ

In 2016, Stephen Franklin had a dream to make Georgia the most “inclusive, creative barbecue experience in the country,” and that’s just what he did at DAS BBQ. Whether it’s the rosy, smoke-ringed brisket, equally pink and juicy St. Louis-style ribs or the spicy, smoked chicken wings, every bony bite is a testament to Franklin’s focus on the art and science of smoked meats. Bring the whole family and don’t pass up housemade sides of decadent cream corn, mac ’n’ cheese and stick-to-your-ribs Brunswick stew. Dig into white chocolate banana pudding after if you’re willing and able.

Meats (whole, half and sandwich): $7-$28, sausages $5/link Wings: $9/$18 for half dozen/dozen Side dishes (in regular, pint or quart): $3-$23 Desserts: $3-$5 dasbbq.com

ECCO BUCKHEAD

Meals at Ecco in Buckhead have the elegance and spontaneity of a spin around the dance floor, thanks to the hyper-seasonal approach to the menu. The kitchen shines in creative interpretations of European cuisine with dishes such as Spanish octopus with Castelvetrano olives, grilled pork tenderloin with beet top risotto, and tortellini stuffed with butternut squash and mascarpone. Perennial favorites such as fried goat cheese with honey and cracked black pepper and the Allora flatbread (with its San Marzano tomato sauce, still bubbling mozzarella, hot sopressata and pepperoni) don’t fail to impress. Paired with expert service, a nicely curated wine list and an atmosphere that’s at once sleek and cozy, this Phipps Plaza-adjacent eatery warrants a visit. Bottom line: If you find something you crave, visit soon to get it before it’s gone. Small plates: $9-$18 Flatbreads: $15-$21 Pasta and mains: $19-$36 Sides: $7-$12 Desserts: $6-$9 ecco-atlanta.com

KR STEAKBAR

Atlanta chef Kevin Rathbun’s only Buckhead restaurant feels customtailored for the community. A contemporary nocturnal cubbyhole where small plates rule, wine flows and the air bristles with excitement, the fashionable “steakbar” concept finds Rathbun and chef de cuisine Jessica Gamble fusing two venerable concepts: meat and Italian. Here, nearly everything speaks with a perky Mediterranean lilt: amari-kissed cocktails, steak doused with espresso sauce, heavenly olive-oil cake with almond brittle and citrus cream. (Pastry chef Kylie Akiyama is terrific.) Hidden touches, like the speakeasy-style bar behind the kitchen and a patio that feels like a sunken garden, make us want to continue to explore this romantic spot. Antipasti: $6-$19 Pasta: $12-$16 Entrees: $18-$68 krsteakbar.com

LE COLONIAL

Le Colonial’s website describes this upscale French-Vietnamese restaurant as “a luxurious escapist oasis,” and we’d agree. Amidst potted palms, starched white tablecloths and whirring vintage fans, glitzed-up diners are transported back to 1920s Vietnam and enjoy the culinary synthesis of the era. Favorite street fare such as banh mi thit nuong (chargrilled pork sandwich) and pho bo (beef noodle soup) get the white glove treatment with chef Richard Lee’s skillful way with Asian herbs and spices. Classic favorites of crispy panseared chicken dumplings, garlicky beef rice noodle rolls and curried green papaya salad will have you hankering for a one-way ticket to Saigon. Small plates: $12-$24 Soups and salads: $10-$18 Large plates: $14-$60 Sides: $4-$11 Desserts: $12-$14 lecolonialatlanta.com

NEWK’S EATERY

This Mississippi-based chain has popped up in the Atlanta market, and though it looks like a fast-food joint, it tastes like homemade. Salads—from shrimp remoulade salad to a delicious steak-and-blue-cheese version to old-fashioned chicken salad—are a standout. At this casual, familyfriendly, crowd-pleasing spot you can also get sandwiches, pizzas and mac and cheese but, refreshingly, no burgers. We are pretty crazy about the sausage-and-pepperoni pie, with its thin crust and warm and gooey toppings. And who can resist a crispy rice treat with chocolate and peanut butter? Not us. Salads, sandwiches and pizzas: $7-$11 newks.com

R. THOMAS DELUXE GRILL

Open 24/7 and bedecked with ’70sstyle disco lighting, beaded curtains and groovy plastic walls, this Buckhead favorite feels like a throwback to the days when the health food craze was in its genesis. Whether you go for the sizzling bone-in hot wings or Dr. Joe’s Mango Salad with a side of raw cashew “cheese,” R. Thomas lives up to its promise to “treat carnivores and vegetarians with equal respect.” More menu favorites include the quinoa-rich Thai Express bowl, the classic Thomas Burger with sprouts and guacamole, the curry coconut seafood linguine, Southwestern-style R.’s Quesadilla and an unforgettable peanut butter chocolate pie. Breakfast: $9.75-$14.75 Appetizers: $4.50-$17.50 Sandwiches, salads and veggie mains: $5.99-$17.50 Entrees: $13.25-$20.75 Desserts: $6.50-$8.75 rthomasdeluxegrill.net

SOUTHBOUND

A “welcome to the neighborhood” vibe lingers throughout Southbound in Chamblee, whether you sit at the bar stocked with artisan spirits, on a comfortable chair in the main dining room or under an umbrellaed picnic table on the patio. Weathered wood, exposed bricks and dangling light bulbs give the space casual elegance. The menu presents Southern comfort food with some creative international flavors and influences. Variety means there’s something for just about any preference, diet, budget and hunger level. The menu

Newk's shrimp po’boy is a healthy alternative to the traditional sandwich of fried shrimp. changes about three times a year, but popular favorites remain, including the double-stack burger, Southern ramen, smoked short rib, Chamblee hot chicken and wild Georgia Shrimp. Small plates: $4-$18 Mains: $14-$33 Sides: $4-$6 Desserts: $6-$9 southboundatl.com

TAKA SUSHI AND PASSION

Chef Taka Moriuchi learned from perhaps the most famously finicky and cult-inspiring Japanese chef Atlanta has ever known: Sotohiro Kosugi, owner of Buckhead’s legendary (but now shuttered) Soto Japanese Restaurant. Today, Moriuchi holds court at his own sushi bar, where his impeccably fresh fish and hot and cold appetizers compare to the best Japanese food in town. The only difference: His prices won’t shipwreck your budget. Among our faves, the UPS roll is a delicious nod to the Atlanta-based Big Brown fleet, and the black cod and okra tempura are packages you’ll be happy to see arrive at your table. Appetizers: $6-$20 Nigiri: $2.50-$11 Sushi rolls: $4.50-$19.50 takasushiatlanta.com

Note: Prices and menu items may have changed since original publication.

Hungry for more?

Visit the Simply Buckhead website to read all of our Restaurant Reviews!