14 minute read

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DELTA DAWN

An interactive display at the GRAMMY Museum Mississippi shows the connections between American artists.

IF YOU GO

Stay

The Cotton House marriott.com/hotels/travel/ memtx-cotton-house-cleveland -a-tribute-portfolio-hotel

Eat

Delta Meat Market deltameatmarket.com The Senator’s Place 662.846.7434 Delta Dairy deltadairy.com

Do

GRAMMY Museum Mississippi grammymuseumms.org Dockery Farms dockeryfarms.org McCarty’s Pottery mccartyspottery.com

A ROAD TRIP INTO MISSISSIPPI BLUES HEAVEN STORY: Caroline Eubanks

When I tell people that Mississippi is one of my favorite places to visit, they tend to look at me sideways. They’ve clearly never been to the Delta, the name given to the communities that follow the curves of the Mississippi River down the Magnolia State.

This fertile land is responsible for agricultural products such as cotton and rice, and it’s also produced some of America’s most incredible musicians. Take a drive down the rural two-lane roads, and it’s easy to spot the iconic markers of the Mississippi Blues Trail.

I’ve visited the Delta region a number of times over the years. I woke up early, hitting the road for the 6.5- hour drive from my home in Atlanta.

Cleveland was my base for this particular trip, located two hours from both Memphis, the unofficial starting point of the Blues Trail, and the Mississippi state capital of Jackson. Home to Delta State University, Cleveland is full of charm, with its neat row of shops selling everything from books to clothing to artwork. They’re set around the Crosstie Walk, a path on a former rail line.

I detoured to nearby Merigold, where those in the know shop for pottery at McCarty’s. The familyowned business started with clay from the Oxford home of William Faulkner and is now a verifiable empire. Fans of their work line up early for their sample sales to receive discounts on the pieces, inspired by the river with hues of blue, teal and brown. Don’t miss a chance to wander through the shop's garden.

Back in Cleveland, I checked in at The Cotton House, the first boutique hotel to open in this part of the Delta. The Marriott-affiliated property has perks of in-room record players, coffee makers with locally roasted grounds and a recipe box “guest book.”

The hotel is also home to Delta Meat Market, an award-winning restaurant inspired by the foodways of the region. Chef Cole Ellis crafts dishes that are best shared, including steak frites with Hoover sauce (a salty and sweet Delta signature), tomato pie and Delta hot tamales. And as the name implies, the restaurant has a meat counter with steaks and sausages, along with Mississippi-made products, including sauces, spices, pickles and rice from Two Brooks Farm.

Another Cleveland favorite is The Senator’s Place, owned by, you guessed it, a senator. Senator Willie Simmons and his wife, Rosie, opened the restaurant in 2003 and serve Southern dishes such as fried chicken, rice and gravy, and dressing.

For a sweet treat, I recommend Delta Dairy, a downtown shop with playful flavors of soft serve ice cream, including “Jolly Rancher” and milk and cookies, along with a variety of toppings. It also offers ice cream sandwiches and Italian-style gelato.

But the biggest reason to come to the Delta is to learn about the region's role in American music, influencing just about every genre. Start at Dockery Farms, which is considered to be the birthplace of the blues. The cotton plantation opened in 1895 and hosted musicians that worked there, including Charley Patton.

The GRAMMY Museum Mississippi ties this blues legacy into other styles such as pop and rap. It has interactive displays and videos along with artifacts, including memorable awards show outfits: OutKast’s 2004 performance costume and the famous gramophone trophies, to name just two. Before starting the journey home, I detoured to Po’ Monkey’s Lounge, a nowclosed juke joint in Merigold. Fans have left mementoes underneath the Blues Trail marker. While it no longer welcomes blues legends into its intimate space, it’s still a reminder of the importance of the Mississippi music. I found a blues radio station and continued down the dusty rural landscape, bringing a piece of the Delta with me. n

Above: Visitors browse the shops in downtown Cleveland. Left: The plates at Delta Meat Market are meant to be shared.

Enjoy a glass of Kaya's wine with picturesque vineyard views on the deck.

Kaya Calm

An overnight stay at Dahlonega’s Kaya Vineyard & Winery is a recharging family getaway

STORY: Giannina S. Bedford

Since I moved to Georgia, Dahlonega has been one of my favorite, quick getaways. Just an hour outside the city, it’s an easy drive I’m willing to tackle anytime to enjoy the rolling hills, vineyards and small town Southern charm. Before kids, my husband and I day-tripped there often, strolling the town square and listening to live music. I’ve also spent many girl getaways vineyardhopping at the growing number of winemaking operations dotting the countryside. My most recent trip was a family affair. Rather than a day trip, which could prove exhausting with two young kids in tow, my husband and I opted for an overnight “staycation” at Kaya Vineyard & Winery.

Last time I’d visited this winery it was called Blackstock Vineyards, one of the first and largest vineyards in the

Dahlonega area. After closing in late 2012, the property was renovated and reopened as Kaya. I recognized the large tasting room perched at the top of a ridge. At a 1,600-foot elevation, it offers memorable panoramic views of

North Georgia. New to me were the four Craftsman-style cottages a short walk from the tasting room where we would be spending the night.

Upon arrival at our cottage, named Ama, we were greeted with a storybook front porch furnished with two rocking chairs and a swing. Inside, the 2,500-square-foot bungalow charmed with a palette of neutral and earthy tones, farmhouse-style barn doors, modern lighting and accent signs with upbeat and welcoming phrases such as “Stay Awhile.” The kids explored the open floorplan and loved the upstairs bedroom with two twin beds and a bonus family/TV room—a perfect place to corral them with a puzzle or board game.

After dropping our luggage, we took the short walk to the tasting room where wine lovers gathered at indoor tables and on the deck and listened to live music. We found a spot outdoors, farther from the “adulting” crowd, where my husband and I could enjoy our wine tasting while the kids ran circles around us, played corn hole and collected rocks. While I’m usually on high alert that my kids should be quiet and perfectly behaved, other families with rambunctious kids sat nearby, easing that stress.

We sampled five of Kaya’s vintages, starting with the 2017 Twisted Oak Chardonnay and 2018 Rosé and making our way to more full-bodied reds such as the 2016 Reserve Sangiovese and 2017 Oak Trifecta. In between sips, we snacked on Belgian pretzels with a spicy beer mustard dipping sauce. The menu also offers a meat and cheese board, paninis and other light bites. I stole away from my crew for a moment to check out Kaya’s quaint gift shop, filled with winethemed accessories, jewelry and farmhouse-style kitchen goods.

Once the kids ran themselves ragged, and we had our fill of wine, we meandered back to our cottage—the ideal commute following an afternoon of imbibing. After getting the kids engaged in a Lego build indoors, my husband and I retreated to the outdoor stone fire pits next to the cottage. From the Adirondack chairs, we watched the sky turn orange and pink as the sun set and felt the calm one seeks when taking a break from the daily grind. Although we’d be heading back home the next morning, the quick 24-hour jaunt to the mountains was exactly the quick reset we needed. The wine helped, too. n

All four of Kaya's craftsman cottages feature spacious front porches, some with rocking chairs and swings.

On the weekend, Kaya's indoor tasting room bustles with oenophiles and live music. FOOD TIP

For a culinary treat with a view, make reservations just four minutes down the road at Kaya’s sister property, Dahlonega Resort and Vineyard. Offering lunch, dinner and Sunday brunch, its restaurant pairs Kaya wines with its chef-inspired dishes ranging from pasta ai funghi and black grouper to osso buco. dahlonegasresort.com

KAYA VINEYARD & WINERY

Cottages’ starting nightly rate: $377 706.219.3514 kayavineyards.com

Living Your Best Life At Living Your Best Life At Living Your Best Life At Living Your Best Life At Living Your Best Life At

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Hotel Colee brings a festive vibe to the center of Buckhead's hustle and bustle.

Buckhead’s newest boutique hotel a prime spot for an intown escapeColee Calling

STORY: Giannina S. Bedford

Iam a firm believer that girl-only getaways are a necessity. Since graduating college and becoming a “real adult,” these escapes become only more important, although scarcer. Nothing helps blow off some steam and ease the weight of everyday responsibilities like a carefree retreat with likeminded ladies—even if it is just a one-night staycation.

So on a Saturday afternoon like any other, rather than planning what to make for dinner, I packed my overnight bag and loaded into a car with three hardworking women. Whether it was the stresses of parenting, work or all of the above, we were in desperate need of a break. We hit the highway and left our grownup worries behind. Our destination:

Hotel Colee, Buckhead’s first

Autograph Collection hotel.

Opened Dec. 1, Hotel Colee takes up residence in the former address of the W Atlanta, Buckhead. The property retains much of the edgy, modish vibe. Imaginative interiors mix pastels, prints and vibrant colors creating Insta-worthy backdrops at every turn. Velvet banquettes and sheer lavender window treatments in the lobby lead to hallways with geometric wallcoverings.

After a well-deserved one-hour foot massage at Buckhead’s Treat

Your Feet, we checked into our

Grand Suite and adjoining double room. Decked out in more eyecatching wallpaper, glam lighting and colorful female-focused prints by Atlanta visual artist Lela Brunet, the room was fit for a celebratory pop of Champagne. We kicked off our shoes and settled into the c-shaped sofa, gabbing as the time quickly ticked away.

When dinner time approached, we freshened up and headed to the rooftop for a pre-dinner cocktail at Whiskey Blue, a welcome holdover from the W days. At a high-top on one of the outdoor patios we took in the skyline views and rush of Buckhead traffic while sipping jalapeno margaritas, dirty martinis and a refreshing cocktail of vodka, bonal, strawberry, cucumber and soda coined the “Troublemaker.” We could have stayed all night but instead tore ourselves away to make it to our dinner reservations at Seven Lamps, one of the many high-caliber eateries in walking distance of the property. (Hotel Colee doesn’t operate a fullservice restaurant on-site, but in-room dining is available for breakfast and dinner.) On the heated and covered patio at Seven Lamps, we shared an addictive pimento cheese board followed by house-made tagliatelle, pan-seared trout and the juicy 50/50 Burger. In between sips of wine, we never ran out of conversation or held back fits of stress-dispelling laughter.

I’d like to say that after dinner we hit the town and painted it red, but the thought of a pajama party with another bottle of Champagne in our very own girl pad was too appealing to turn down. We chatted late into the night before slipping into our comfy beds for a sleep that wouldn’t end with an alarm clock. When we checked out the following morning, we had fewer than 10 miles to drive home, back to to-do lists and daily duties, but we each arrived recharged with an energy that can only come from taking time to let loose together. n

Rooms feature vibrant hues and feminine art, setting the stage for a fun-filled stay.

HOTEL COLEE

Starting rate: $169 per night 3377 Peachtree Road N.E. Atlanta 30326 678.500.3100 hotelcolee.com