Foodie Journal

GARDEN PARTY

Kimpton Sylvan Hotel’s chef shares pro tips for outdoor entertaining

At Buckhead’s new Kimpton Sylvan Hotel, outdoor dining is the name of the game. Among the hotel’s three food and beverage concepts are two indoor-outdoor spaces, both opening this spring: Willow Bar, a garden lounge, and St. Julep, an open-air rooftop lounge. Chef Brandon Chavannes, formerly of St. Cecilia, shares his advice for effortless entertaining outdoors.

What’s important to keep in mind when setting the mood outdoors? People naturally tend to gravitate towards one area at gatherings. If you’re entertaining outside, try to place snacks and beverages in different areas so people move around organically and mingle with one another. This will create a more relaxed environment and allow people to break away without feeling obligated to stay in the center of the goings-on the whole time.

How do you make an outdoor gathering feel special? Roasting whole ingredients, like a fish or a large joint of meat, is a surprisingly easy way to bring a sense of occasion and drama to a backyard party.

What are some common mistakes in outdoor entertaining? People try to do too much. Keep it simple so you have time to focus on being a good host. No matter what, there's going to be plenty to do. Keep drinks full, introduce people to each other and even pass around a few dishes. Hosts often get sidetracked by trying to create some giant, ornate spread and consequently lose sight of the hospitality.

Any tips for those with a smaller outdoor space? Plan and prep your menu up to a week in advance. All the little knick-knacks and tools that you need to put together a party really add up, and with

FOOD NEWS

Storico Vino is the latest concept by Michael Patrick, Pietro Gianni and Stephen Peterson, the owners of Storico Fresco and Forza Storico. It’s now open in Buckhead Village and bringing the feeling of an Italian wine bar to the neighborhood. storico.com/vino

Hoping to learn a thing or two about cocktails? Kyma’s Manager and Beverage Connoisseur Andrej Pop is sharing his secrets with the restaurant’s “Mixology Experience” classes, held Tuesday

Andrew Thomas Lee

all the distractions, they tend to get left lying around, cluttering your setup. When space is a premium, you want to keep extra stuff out of the way.

What types of cuisine lend themselves to outdoor dining? Middle Eastern food is a go-to for me. Kofta, baba ganoush and other Middle Eastern staples are great for the grill and leaving out on a table to snack on. I also love making a big paella for a summer night dinner party with the perfume of saffron and pimenton lingering about. n

The Kimpton Sylvan Hotel 374 East Paces Ferry Road N.E. Atlanta 30305 877.984.6548 thesylvanhotel.com

through Thursday. A ticket comes with three cocktails per person and a lesson on mixology. buckheadrestaurants.com /restaurant/kyma

Dunwoody gets a new food hall this spring when The Hall at Ashford Lane is expected to open on Olde Perimeter Way. The Atlanta location follows in the footsteps of its Tampa, Florida, counterpart, The Hall on Franklin, with nine restaurant stalls offering breakfast, lunch, dinner and cocktails. explorethehall.com

EASY BEING GREEN

CHEF JONATHAN WAXMAN SHARES HIS KALE SALAD RECIPE

Award-winning chef Jonathan Waxman combines Italian-Californian cuisine with Southern ingredients with his latest restaurant, Baffi (Italian for “moustache”), which opened in West Midtown’s Stockyards development this winter. Here, Waxman shares his famous kale salad recipe, also available in his cookbook, The Barbuto Cookbook: California-Italian Cooking from the Beloved West Village Restaurant.

Kale Salad Serves 6

8 ounces kale (leave the stems intact) 6 fresh basil leaves, patted dry and rolled like a cigar 2–4 salt-cured anchovies, rinsed and deboned 2 cloves garlic, peeled, green shoots removed, and smashed 1 egg yolk, at room temperature 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard Sea salt 1½ teaspoons red wine vinegar 1½ teaspoons fresh lemon juice ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil Freshly ground black pepper ¹⁄₃ cup grated Pecorino Romano cheese 1 tablespoon toasted breadcrumbs

Wash the kale well and dry in a salad spinner. On a wooden (this is important advice—plastic is impossible) cutting board, julienne the kale as thinly as possible. Place the kale in a salad bowl. Keep cold. Clean the board and wipe it dry. On the cutting board, finely mince the basil. Add the anchovies and garlic, and continue to mince until you achieve a paste. In another bowl, combine the basil and garlic paste with the egg yolk, mustard, 1⁄2 teaspoon sea salt, red wine vinegar and the lemon juice. Use a whisk and mix well. Drizzle in the oil, whisking continuously, until you achieve a broken emulsion. Pour 4 oz. of the dressing over the kale, enough to coat the leaves well (reserve the rest for another day). Using as much force as possible, crush the kale and dressing. This will release the enzymes from the kale to interact with the dressing’s acid and salt. Add a pinch of salt and a few turns of pepper. Sprinkle with the cheese and breadcrumbs. Toss Baffi well, taste for season- 976 Brady Ave. N.W. ing and serve within an Suite 110 hour. Letting it sit for a Atlanta, 30318 little while does wonders 404.724.9700 for the flavor. baffiatlanta.com

TURN YOUR OUTDOOR SPACE INTO LIVING SPACE

Providing professional landscape design and installation, irrigation design and installation, hardscape design and installation and outdoor lighting.

Pascarella buys and sells sports cards on eBay. He once purchased a Luka Doncic card in mint condition for $20 and sold it for $2,000.

Buon Appetito

GRANA OWNER-CHEF PAT PASCARELLA PUTS A SOUTHERN TWIST ON ITALIAN TRADITIONS

STORY: Carly Cooper

It’s the age-old story of a boy who embraces his heritage by cooking with those who came before him.

In this case, the boy—now man—is

Pat Pascarella, executive chef and owner of Grana in Piedmont Heights and The White Bull in Decatur.

Born to a family of Italian immigrants in Connecticut, Pascarella learned his way around the kitchen from his mother and grandmother.

He attended culinary school, trained under James Beard Award-winning chefs in New York and Miami, and ate a path around Italy. He owned and operated a restaurant in Connecticut for eight years before moving to Atlanta in 2017 as executive chef at The Optimist.

“I wanted to get to know people, the city and how things work here,” he says.

A year later, he opened The White Bull, putting a spin on traditional Italian fare and focusing on farm-to-table ingredients. In March 2020, he expanded with Grana, which he describes as a “Southern-style restaurant focused on Neapolitan pizza.” (Grana is also known for its see-and-be-seen rooftop patio facing Piedmont Avenue.) After working 18 to 20 hours a day for months, Pascarella is finally seeing the fruits of his labor. “The White Bull did a good job of putting my name out there. Grana is putting us on the map,” he says.

We spoke to him to learn more about his cooking and his plans for the future.

How’d you end up in Atlanta? My first choice was Italy. My wife said no, and my two brothers-in-law live here. I came to visit 10 times in 20152016 to see if this was where I wanted to be. Ford Fry was really starting to hit his stride. I liked what he, Linton [Hopkins] and Anne Quatrano did to pave the way for us younger, likeminded individuals.

How has your cooking changed throughout your career? For a long time, I was so focused on being this high-end, fine-dining chef. Over the years, I realized I should go back to my roots and double down on what I’m good at: Italian cuisine with a twist. I like trying different pasta shapes no one has ever heard of.

You have to learn what people want. Decatur is more out there—people are willing to try oxtail, dandelion and foie gras. In Piedmont Heights, we stay true to what Italian food is but put a little Southern approach on it.

Why is it so important to you to use local ingredients? They are so readily available now. I get 50 emails a week from local farms. Our purveyors are using local farms, too. The Italians have been cooking local their whole lives. They go in their backyard and pull what they need.

What would you do if you weren’t a chef? I’d be a farmer. I really enjoy the land, pigs, cows and chickens. I love the science behind all of it. I love that when you grow something, you need to replenish the soil. In the next three to five years, I’d like to buy a farm. It’s the best way to make sure I have [fresh] tomatoes through November and basil the whole year. I’d live there.

When my wife and I are in our 60s, we want to open a small bakery (she’s a pastry chef) with a sandwich shop that does finer-end dining at the end of the night.

What do you do for fun these days? I love to fish. I also love to drive around with my wife, looking at houses and farmland. I’m trying to find the balance between work and being at home. We have a 2-year-old and a 5-year-old. I like to play soccer with them or do whatever they’re into.

What’s next for you? I have another four to six concept ideas in my computer just waiting for me to find locations. I’m thinking about bringing thin and crispy New Haven-style pizza to Atlanta. How cool would it be to do a Sicilian-style seafood restaurant or a Roman-style vegetable and pasta spot? n

GRANA

1835 Piedmont Ave. 30324 404.231.9000 granaatl.com

FEATURED RESTAURANTS

A sampling of great eats in and around Buckhead

BY: Wendell Brock, Rebecca Cha and Angela Hansberger PHOTOS: Sara Hanna, Joann Vitelli

10 DEGREES SOUTH

After 15 years on the scene, this Roswell Road establishment is a highly original destination where food and wine from the tip of the Southern Hemisphere are celebrated with flair. Before we could pose the server with a query on the peri-peri, we got the hard sell on South African reds—particularly the Rupert & Rothschild 2009 “Classique.” The big, full-bodied R&R was the perfect match for the luscious, spicy food that followed. We wager that nobody makes bobotie (the South African national dish) like 10 Degrees South. The dish consists of tantalizingly sweet curried ground beef topped with a custardy crust. It’s time to get your head out of the sand and indulge in the kind of stuff our parents enjoyed when “Continental” cuisine was in vogue. Appetizers: $10-$16 Entrees: $21-$38 10degreessouth.com

ARNETTE’S CHOP SHOP

Arnette’s will dazzle you with its no-expense-spared interiors, cosmopolitan wine list and, of course, its meat. Chicago-sourced ribeyes, strips and tomahawk steaks are the main attraction supported by a top-notch cast of appetizers and sides, from decadent roasted marrow and wagyu beef tartare to classic wedge salad and

Eclipse di Luna’s paella del día is brimming with shrimp, chicken, chorizo and authentic Calasparra rice. Dauphinoise potatoes. (There are also oysters and caviar, if you don’t mind shelling out a few extra bucks.) Favorite items include the 50-day, wet-aged cowboy ribeye; the bliss-inducing lobster spaghetti; and the shaved prime rib sandwich, a real scene-stealer. Don’t forget to ask about the members-only knife club. Appetizers, salads and sandwiches: $9-$25 Shrimp, oysters and caviar: $13-$150 Hearth-roasted shellfish, fish and steaks: $13-$140 Desserts: $8-$12 arnetteschopshop.com

BIG SKY BUCKHEAD

The laid-back cattle ranch decor in this West Village hotspot is the perfect foil for top-notch Tex-Mex-meets-DeepSouth eats. Specialty cocktails served up by fresh-faced mixologists combined with events such as Wednesday trivia nights, game-day viewing parties and weekend brunches with all-you-candrink mimosas make Big Sky Buckhead a favorite urban escape. Best-in-class dishes such as the Big Sky Nachos, Goose Island IPA wings, Original Burger and Buffalo Chicken Sandwich are good enough to brand this place in your memory forever. Good to know: Big Sky is a cashless establishment, so don’t forget your alt-currency. Also, free

F&B

Like its predecessor, the much-loved former Brasserie le Coze, F&B delivers timeless Provençal fare in a classic brasserie atmosphere. The menu is bolstered by comfort dishes portioned with hunger in mind, but it’s also fortified with lighter salads, sandwiches and soups. Classics such as steak frites and skate wing with a brown butter sauce are deeply satisfying in their rustic charm. Mussels come piled high in a white wine and shallot broth, along with crusty French bread for sopping. The drink menu is built on interesting French wines and remarkable cocktails such as the well-balanced, bourbonbased Line of Destiny. Appetizers: $6-$18 Entrees: $11-$42 Desserts: $6-$8 fandbatl.net

HEARTH PIZZA TAVERN

Sandy Springs is lucky to be home to Hearth Pizza Tavern, where worldclass pie is served up in a cozy corner of the Exchange at Hammond. Pizzas such as the Ring of Fire and The Cure would earn three Michelin stars if there were a pizza rating, and other menu items aren’t far behind. If you’re eating

Arnette's lobster spaghetti is a masterpiece of fresh, luxurious flavors.

on-site parking spots are limited, so consider carpooling or ridesharing. Starters: $4-$12 Salads, sandwiches and tacos: $11-$13 Entrees: $15-$19 Brunch items: $12-$15 bigskybuckhead.com

ECLIPSE DI LUNA

At the tail end of Miami Circle is one of the most convivial joints in town. Head over for happy hour Monday through Thursday when most drinks and tapas are half price, and there’s live music. Yummy small plates of habanerospiced ahi tuna ceviche, smoky sundried-tomato mac and cheese (made with three different cheeses) and refreshing Granny Smith apple salad are some of our favorites. Still hungry? It’s hard to pass up the succulent balsamic-y spare ribs and flavorful, crunchy calamari. If you’re with family (or a family of friends), consider the exquisite saffron-infused paella, made with authentic Calasparra rice. Tapas: $2.95-$14.95 (most in the $5-$8 range) Large plates (for two or more): $20$24 eclipsediluna.com

carb-free, go for the Tavern chopped salad, piled high with Italian meats and cheeses, or dig in to hot, crispy Brussels sprouts or zesty roasted cauliflower. If those don’t tempt you, then the steaming bowl of PEI mussels or an oozing, medium-rare Angus beef burger will be your best bet. Openers and salads: $6-$12 Burgers and sandwiches: $10-$12 Pizzas: $7-$19 hearthpizzatavern.com

Pure Taqueria has tacos and homemade salsas for every palate and dietary restriction.

HOUSTON’S

Houston’s probably won’t make the list of any highfalutin, big-city critic. And yet the Beverly Hills-based chain, which has had an Atlanta presence since 1978, has a devoted following, thanks to its consistently good, all-American food; its commitment to customer comforts; and its flagrant disregard for culinary razzle-dazzle. While the gooey spinachand-artichoke dip and the Famous French Dip are the stuff of legend, we are crazy about the Thai steak and noodle salad, the crispy-skinned rotisserie chicken and the warm, five-nut brownie with vanilla ice cream. At Houston’s, every table is bolted to the floor so it won’t wobble, servers bring chilled glasses so your drink never gets tired and the napkins have buttonholes so the white-shirt crowd can save its ties. We can only hope this classic sticks around for a few more decades. Starters and salads: $4-$20 Burgers and sandwiches: $18-$20 Entrees: $25-$45 hillstone.com/houstons

PRICCI

Opened in 1991, Pricci is the Italian jewel in Buckhead Life Restaurant Group’s crown. This Buckhead institution still aspires to (and delivers) exceptional service, superlative Italian cooking and a vibe that’s both elegant and inclusive. Nothing says buon appetito like silky burrata Pugliese (cream filled mozzarella), tangy parmesan and anchovy-rich Caesar salad and aromatic steamed cozze (mussels in tomatogarlic sauce). Barbera-braised short rib ravioli, pecorino-sauced cacio e pepe and pizzas of all varieties are favorites, but if you’re extra peckish, order the Dutch-imported 16-ounce veal chop. Mangia bene, but don’t forget to try Pricci’s world-class tiramisu. Appetizers and salads: $8-$26 Pizza and pastas: $17-$27 Entrees: $24-$46 Desserts: $6-$15 buckheadrestaurants.com

PURE TAQUERIA

Nestled in the heart of Brookleigh Marketplace, Pure Taqueria is a true Brookhaven oasis. After 6 p.m., head up to the adults-only rooftop bar for killer Lunazul tequila margaritas and sumptuous soft tacos complemented by more than a half dozen chile salsas. Downstairs in the bright and sunny dining room, families and hipsters gather for silky fondue-like queso con todo, sizzling cazuela bowls, hearty sandwiches such as the torta de carne y chorizo and myriad Tex-Mex specialties featuring the freshest seafood, meats and vegetarian options. You’ll be hard-pressed to find a more cheerful and accommodating waitstaff. Appetizers and taco platters: $4.79-$15.99 Classics, sandwiches and specialties: $8.49-$22.99 Desserts: $5.09-$8.49 puretaqueria.com

R. THOMAS DELUXE GRILL

Open 24/7 and bedecked with ’70sstyle disco lighting, beaded curtains and groovy plastic walls, this Buckhead favorite feels like a throwback to the days when the health food craze was in its genesis. Whether you go for the sizzling bone-in hot wings or Dr. Joe’s Mango Salad with a side of raw cashew “cheese,” R. Thomas lives up to its promise to “treat carnivores and vegetarians with equal respect.” More menu favorites include the quinoa-rich Thai Express bowl, the classic Thomas Burger with sprouts and guacamole, the curry coconut seafood linguine, Southwestern-style R.’s Quesadilla and an unforgettable peanut butter chocolate pie. Breakfast: $9.75-$14.75 Appetizers: $4.50-$17.50 Sandwiches, salads and veggie mains: $5.99-$17.50 Entrees: $13.25-$20.75 Desserts: $6.50-$8.75 rthomasdeluxegrill.net

YUZU

Chamblee is to Atlanta what 1980s SoHo was to Manhattan: edgy and on the verge, which is why traditional, sedate Yuzu is such a welcome respite in its midst. Veteran restaurateurs Anna and Kenny Kim run their dining room with efficiency and grace. With a flash of his Masamoto knife, Chef Kim delivers top-notch sushi and sashimi such as chu-toro, escolar and salmon, as well as mouthwatering rolls (we highly recommend the special spicy rainbow roll and the crunchy dragon roll). With dishes such as tempura udon, charred salmon skin salad, Japanese ceviche and an impeccable teriyaki chicken, there’s something for everyone at this authentic sushi bistro. Appetizers, salads: $4-$14.50 Special plates: $13.50-$17.80 Sushi plates, rolls: $8.50-$16.50 Dinner entrees: $13.50-$15.90 yuzusushiatlanta.com

Yuzu's baked salmon skin salad is crunchy and rich without being too heavy or fishy.

Note: Prices and menu items may have changed since original publication.

Hungry for more?

Visit the Simply Buckhead website to read all of our Restaurant Reviews!