358
Martinique
Sketches.
the cabbage has been cut out, and the tree has begun to perish. It is the grub of a curious beetle, which has a proboscis of such form as suggested the creole appellation, lifant: the "elephant." These worms are sold in the Place du Fort at two sous each : they are spitted and roasted alive, and are said to taste like almonds. I have never tried to find out whether this be fact or fancy ; and I am glad to say that few white créoles confess a liking for this barbarous food. The zandouiiles are delicious sausages made with pigbuff,—and only seen in the market on Sundays. They cost a franc and a half each ; and there are several women who have an established reputation throughout Martinique for their skill in making them. I have tasted some not less palatable than the famous London "pork-pies." Those of Lamentin are reputed the best in the island. But poule-épi-diri is certainly the most popular dish of all : it is the dearest, as well, and poor people can rarely afford it. In Louisiana an almost similar dish is called jimbalaya : chicken cooked with rice. The Martiniquais think it such a delicacy that an over-exacting person, or one difficult to satisfy, is reproved with the simple question :— Ça ou lè 'neb—poule-épi-diri ?" (What more do you want, great heavens !—chicken-and-rice ?) Naughty children are bribed into absolute goodness by the promise of poule-épi-diri :— 11
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—"Aïel chè, bb doudoux! Doudoux ba ou poule-épi-diri; Aïe! chè, bb doudoux!". . .
(Aïe, dear ! kiss doudoux !—doudoux for you ! — a i e , dear ! kiss doudoux
has rice-and-chicken /)
H o w far rice enters into the success of the dish above mentioned I cannot say ; but rice ranks in favor gener-