Martinique
312
Sketches.
there was a luxurious variety of the jupe costume which is disappearing because of its cost; there is no money in the colonies now for such display :—I refer to the celebrated attire of the pet slaves and belles affranchies of the old colonial days. A full costume,—including violet or crimson " petticoat " of silk or satin ; chemise with half-sleeves, and much embroidery and lace ; " tremblingpins " of gold (zépingue tremblant) to attach the folds of the brilliant Madras turban ; the great necklace of three or four strings of gold beads bigger than peas (collierc o r d i n g t o the designs o f the printed calico:—robe-à-bambou,—robeà-bouquet,—robe-arc-en-ciel,—robe-à-carreau,—etc., a c c o r d i n g as the pattern is in stripes, flower-designs, " r a i n b o w " b a n d s o f different tints, o r plaidings. Ronde-en-ronde means a stuff printed with d i s k patterns, o r link-patterns o f different c o l o r s , — e a c h j o i n e d with the other. A r o b e o f o n e c o l o r o n l y is called a robe-uni. T h e general laws o f contrasts o b s e r v e d in the c o s t u m e require the silk foulard, o r shoulder-kerchief, t o m a k e a sharp relief with the c o l o r o f the r o b e , thus : — Robe.
Foulard.
Yellow Dark blue Pink Violet Red C h o c o l a t e (cacoa). Sky blue
Blue. Yellow. Green. Bright r e d . .Violet. Pale b l u e . Pale rose.
T h e s e refer, o f course, t o d o m i n a n t o r g r o u n d colors, as there are usually several tints in the foulard as w e l l as the r o b e . T h e painted M a d r a s s h o u l d always b e bright y e l l o w . A c c o r d i n g t o p o p u l a r ideas o f g o o d dressing, the different tints o f skin should b e relieved b y special c h o i c e o f c o l o r in the r o b e , as f o l l o w s : — Capresse (a clear r e d skin) should w e a r
Pale y e l l o w .
Mulâtresse ( a c c o r d i n g t o shade)
Rose. Blue. Green.
Négresse
White. Scarlet, o r any violent c o l o r .