Issue IX, Fall/Winter 2015
Editor-In-Chief Bonnie Babb-Cheshul
Executive Director
Managing Editor
Fashion Director
Photography Director
Andrea Hoover Chloe Crites
Brooke Watz Josh Orack
Design Director
Marcos Olivarez
Design Jessa Goldner Jessica Tye Bianca Adams Vladislav Kotov Style Clare Carlisle Eduardo Calzadilla Mackenzie Rollinson Miranda Mortensen Morgan Johnson Alexander Singer Marketing James Bowen Andrew Cargill Sammi Kassirer Ayonna Taylor Photography Michael Mielke Joanne Newman Jones Jen Murillo Kevin Stankewitz Mindy Leahxu
Writing Shaili Rathod Faryal Sharif Faculty Advisor Karl Whittington Special Thanks to Royal Factory College of Arts and Sciences Irregular Choice Mitch McGuire Captain Kidd Katie Ricardella Office of Student Life OSU Katie Guagenti Poor Sparrow
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Outer Place
Sitting down with Captain Kidd
018 STAR WARS by Irregular Choice
020 SOAK
030 A Brief Look at Unisex Colthing
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Left to right Frankie, Asia, Trina, Connor, and Katrina all wear stylsts’ own clothes.
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Photography by Jen Murillo
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Star Wars by Irregular Choice
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Introducing their stunning collaboration with Star Wars, United Kingdom footwear brand Irregular Choice developed fourteen styles of Star Wars inspired shoes to celebrate the upcoming release of Star Wars VII The Force Awakens. Star Wars fans and shoe lovers alike will undoubtedly appreciate the extravagant designs created by Irregular Choice and Disney. The footwear created features elements from the film including characters, prints, embroidery, and flashing lightsaber heels; furthermore, the collection is limited edition complete with collectable boxes for Star Wars lovers to keep their shoes in pristine condition. David Lee, director of footwear for The Walt Disney Company EMEA commented, “We’re thrilled with this exciting collaboration, the collection is really stunning and features the most iconic characters from the original trilogy. We’re sure that Irregular Choice fans and Star Wars fans alike will love the designs.” And Mr. Lee, Scarlette Magazine couldn’t agree more. Those of us here at Scarlette Magazine couldn’t help but notice the immaculate detail of Irregular Choice’s designs. From the insoles to the out prints, Irregular Choice didn’t miss a beat portraying the most iconic characters and features of the Star Wars trilogy. C-3PO, R2-D2, Darth Vader and Stormtroopers are among the fourteen styles created by Irregular choice. Among the flats created by Irregular Choice and Disney are C-3PO and Darth Vader. C-3PO is characterized by shimmering gold fabric to replicate the humanoid robot’s metallic external structure. But what’s more of C-3PO’s shoe design is the bottom of the shoe’s homage to Luke Skywalker. Both the C-3PO and Darth Vader shoes are reminiscent of the galactic features of the Star Wars setting through their insoles that exhibit deep blues, and shimmering pinks, purples, and yellows. Although the flats demonstrate Irregular Choice and Disney’s creativity and innovation, Irregular Choice and Disney certainly expanded their imagination to great depths in the creation of their Star Wars inspired heels. The detail and artistry
displayed can only be described as a fearless attempt at capturing the true essence of Star Wars and implementing the essence into a shoe format for shoe lovers and Star Wars fanatics to appreciate. The rendition of R2-D2 is nothing short of intricate because of its fullfledged R2-D2 figure as the heel of the shoe. To complement the R2-D2 figure, the face of the shoe is suggestive of the galactic setting of Star Wars that was presented in the flats as well. On the opposite spectrum of beautiful blues, pinks, yellows, and purples, the Stormtrooper heel captures the idea of the Stormtrooper’s main purpose of military authority. With thick black buckles and dark brown, metallic, patterned fabric, the Stormtrooper heels express a notion of darkness and rugged warfare. Finally, the trademark of Star Wars, the lightsaber, makes its debut in shoe format. Taking heels to a new level, the lightsaber heel even flashes. The fabric of the shoe can be compared to the natural tones Luke Skywalker’s outfit exhibits in the film, with tans, browns, blacks and whites. Irregular Choice and Disney included the famed Star Wars logo on the back of select shoes which will undoubtedly excite Star Wars fans who will be willing to wear the shoes rather than keep them on display for collector’s item purposes. Although each shoe displays its own unique characteristics, it is evident within each shoe what the purpose of its creation is for, to exhibit the unmistakable characters and multiple facets of Star Wars that has made it an everlasting success across the decades. The collaboration between Irregular Choice and Disney was a certain success in which Star Wars fans and shoe lovers alike can appreciate the craft and the significance of representing such an iconic film series.
-Brooke Watz
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SOAK
An interview with Katie Guagenti Photos by Joanne Jones Stylist Miranda Mortensen Jewelry from Poor Sparrow Nadirah Jones Models
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Tell us about your brand and your educational background. How did you decide to become a jewelry designer? My jewelry line, Poor Sparrow, features pieces that I design and create using a mix of vintage and modern materials. I use vintage chains and old brass elements, antique parts and new raw gemstones to create pieces that are fashion forward. I also rescue vintage dead stock jewelry so it can be worn and enjoyed again. I frequently travel throughout the U.S. to find the most unusual vintage supplies to use in my designs. I attended Ohio State from 2005 to 2009 and got my degree in Apparel Product Development. At the time I graduated, the economy was a bit slow, so I took various freelance positions in the fashion industry. I began Poor Sparrow around the same time. I took some metalworking courses and became very interested in pursuing my brand. Is there a certain type of customer you have in mind when you’re designing? The customer base I typically keep in mind when designing my jewelry is the 22 - 35 year old age group. My customer is usually interested in art and handmade pieces and is free spirited and an individual. Even though this is what I keep in mind, I usually design pieces based on what I would wear myself. And I also truly believe that there is something in my line for everyone.
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What’s your favorite thing about working and living in Columbus? Columbus is truly an excellent place to start a small business - not only is there strong support for handmade products in the community, but there are also many resources available to help small businesses get started. As far as living in Columbus - I really love it. There are so many fun things to do and so many neighborhoods to explore. I think it’s a great place for young professionals to reside. I absolutely love how walkable the city is - there are so many local shops and restaurants just a few blocks from my house. I think that is my favorite thing about Columbus. Where can we find your work? (Shops, festivals, websites, etc) My work can be found online at www.poorsparrow. com and on Instagram (@poorsparrow). It is available for purchase in person in Columbus at Clothing Underground, Glean, Kifle, Wholly Craft and State & Third. I will also be present at many local festivals this summer including ComFest, The Nelsonville Music Festival and Independents’ Day.
What advice would you give someone looking to work in the fashion/jewelry industry? My best advice to someone pursuing a career in fashion is to stay true to yourself and do what you love. Never try to model yourself after another designer or collection - customers will always appreciate original design and you will love what you do more when you are creating a product that you believe in. What do you envision for the future of your brand? Currently, I am focusing on the wholesale side of my brand. I am expanding it throughout the U.S. and hope to someday have a presence in every state. I would love to keep my brand independent and exclusively for small boutiques - I have very little interest in being in a mall setting or in any national chain stores.
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A BRIEF LOOK AT
UNISEX
CLOTHING by Faryal Sharif
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In 2007 at a small art gallery in Paris, Canadian designer Rad Hourani launched his unisex line, RAD by Rad Hourani. Using simple lines, patterned folds, and architectural principles, Hourani’s style gives nods to both masculinity and femininity without adhering to one over the other. So, which section do we put it in— men’s or women’s? Probably neither. Hourani’s designs are deliberately genderless. He has since been credited with launching the first “unisex” haute couture line.1 What is unisex clothing? Designers with a vision similar to Hourani’s have stated that unisex clothing exists somewhere in between “the fluid space of identity and fashion.”2 In this way, unisex clothing is essentially undefinable. But no matter the exact definition, all of these fashion designers were inspired by a similar question: “who decided that men should dress differently than women?”
radhourani.com New York Magazine. “3 Designers on How They Define Genderless Fashion (2015).” 1 2
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So, who did? This rhetorical question may not have a concrete answer, but a brief look at our history may provide some clues. In the 19th century, being fashionable meant dresses made of heavy crinoline fabric, as well as corsets and other ponderous garments.3 This heavy clothing may be part of the reason why women had a more passive role in society. Men, who dressed much more simply, could assume an active role. In this way, clothing reflected the dominance of patriarchy.4 Dress reformers wanted women’s clothing that allowed more freedom. They attempted to make trousers, a traditionally male garment, available for women. Unfortunately, both men and women saw their proposals for interchangeable clothing as too radical and controversial. Fashion would stay mostly distinguishable and divided between the sexes for the next few centuries.4
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Eventually, we tried again to defy traditional gender roles through clothing. During the industrial revolution, a trend toward “androgyny” rose. Androgyny, in it’s basic definition, combines masculine and feminine dress in any combination.4 For example, pants with button-downs, pea coats, and suit sets become mainstream for women. The likes of Katharine Hepburn and Coco Chanel helped popularize this style.5 During the 1960s and late 70s, the hippie movement rose to center stage. Both men and women grew their hair out long, and sported floral turtlenecks with their bell bottom jeans. The youth of this era may have been seen as rebels, but they had a huge impact on the clothing industry.6 Despite disdain of their behavior by most retailers, some designers began to take cues from the youth’s desire for comfortable clothing and individuality. By the mid 70s, the word unisex was being used by magazines, and was described as “a social phenomena.”3
Stores today are typically divided into men and women sections—but more and more exceptions are rising. Recently, Target announced it was phasing out gender based signage.7 The GAP and related stores have successfully sold unisex clothing for adults and children, though sizing is still cut across gender lines.8 The trend doesn’t seem to be slowing down—in fact, many fashion journalists comment that the new future of fashion has no gender.9 Visibly in the couture world, men and women’s clothing look increasingly similar—whether or not their line is divided across gender lines. “Unisex” is not the only term being used either. “Genderqueer,” “gender neutral,” “androgynous,” “agender,” or just plain “neutral” have all been used to describe this style.10 One thing is for sure: unisex clothing shows us just how fashion adapts to allow people to express themselves more. Unisex clothing also exhibits the ability of fashion to facilitate social change and start conversations. An acceptance of “gender fluidity” is increasing.11 Even new parents have consciously tried to avoid the traditional “pink for girls” and “blue for boys” clothing choices. Non-binary genders may have always existed, but due to clothing, their presence is now visible. Like dress reformers in the 19th century, clothing can conspicuously allow society to act and think in different ways. Hourani commented in an interview that he likes the idea “of a world that we could live and shape by ourselves, only by observation.”1 Perhaps fashion will be the furtive weapon as our world matures and our visions turn into realities.
Buffalo Rising. “Fashion That Was: The Sixties. (n.d.)” The Atlantic. “A Brief History of Unisex Clothing (2015).” 5 Time Magazine. “What Katharine Hepburn Wore…(2015)” 6 Apparel Search. “Victorian Period in Fashion.” 7 Target Corporate (2011). 8 GAP Inc (2008). 9 The Business of Fashion. “Will genderless fashion change retail? (2015).” 10 Racked.com “Fashion’s Bold New Future Has No Gender” 11 Davis, E. C. “SITUATING “FLUIDITY”: (Trans) Gender Identification and the Regulation of Gender Diversity.” GLQ: A Journal of Lesbian and Gay Studies 3 4
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Sitting Down With
C A P TA I N K I D D by Faryal Sharif
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Recently, Scarlette had the opportunity to sit down with Captain Kidd to talk about who they are as artists, their own personal fashion tastes, and what we can expect to see from them in the future. Captain Kidd, a band native to Ohio, is made up of 5 friends: Nathan, Eric, Nick, Stew, and Andrew. The project began when Nate and Eric casually started writing music in high school. Eventually, Stew and Nick were recruited through friends and Andrew joined on bass. I asked the members how their musical experience has progressed so far. According to Eric, it [their experience] has been “the coolest”—an “insane journey” that was shaped by friends and family. Nate mentioned how awesome it is to look back on their older music and see how much they’ve changed or improved. What started as just “something to do” has now transformed into a possible career. After, I asked the guys about their musical process, and attempted to have them choose a word or phrase to describe their music. However, all of them struggled and couldn’t come up with one. Andrew noted that it is hard to put one word on what they’re trying to 36
create. As a band, they’ve gone through many phases and are still trying to figure out who they are. Their music incorporates electronica and R&B tones, and lately, the synthesizer has become a large part of their sound. Through recording and experimenting with different gear (such as an 80s synth) they’ve chosen what most “felt like it fit.” “Psychedelic,” “tasteful pop,” and “sexy R&B” were all phrases that came up when describing the state of their current music. Bands such as Arctic Monkeys and Empire of the Sun have influenced them—but they all seemed to agree that their biggest influence is their friends and family. Besides their support, friends can inspire a certain lyric, or share experiences that become the inspiration for a new song.
“What started as just ‘something to do’ has now transformed into a possible career”
Captain Kidd said they are still working on figuring out exactly what their artistic themes are. Lately, they’ve concentrated on unifying the visual and musical process, and creating music that is more intentional. The process of branding, they admit, can be slow. On the stage, they alluded to having more interactive concerts that will incorporate the synth, props, costumes, and light. Nate and Eric say we can expect an “intimate feel” in their shows. Before the band members left, we were able to talk about fashion. The guys felt that they’ve developed their personal styles more in the past year. “We’re getting more serious with our music, so one day we thought, we should start dressing like ‘people with a look,” Eric said.
“Their music seems to influence their fashion choices—their style is tasteful, sexy, and a little bit spacey” He pointed out that “what we dressed up to wear on stage eventually became what we wear every day.” So, what are the guys wearing? Boots, dark jeans, tank tops, graphic tees, and leather jackets
were all common staples. A few of them had favorite pieces, like a Cleveland Indians jacket for Nate and a patterned tee for Stew. Andrew seems to go back and forth on whether or not to tuck in his button ups, and Eric was sure to swear off shorts. Their music seems to influence their fashion choices—their style is tasteful, sexy, and a little bit spacey. Captain Kidd wasn’t willing to give up too many details about their new album, but they did say that we should look for a set of songs that fit and flow well together. Fans should be more excited for their upcoming music video. The Good Life video will include psychedelic, party-like scenes. To record it, the band threw a huge Halloween costume party. The video will center on a friend of theirs in costume, wandering through the chaotic party, living the good life. “It was done in one or two takes,” said Eric. “Absolutely, we had so much fun making it.” Everyone agreed. Captain Kidd’s second album is expected to come out in April 2016.
Issue IX, Fall/Winter 2015