August 2023

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ST. LOUIS’ INDEPENDENT CULINARY AUTHORITY // SAUCEMAGAZINE.COM // AUGUST 2023
SUMMeR ViBeS
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AUGUST 2023 • VOLUME 23, ISSUE 8

PUBLISHER

EXECUTIVE EDITOR MANAGING EDITOR

DIGITAL EDITOR

STAFF WRITER

ART DIRECTOR

SENIOR DESIGNER

EDIBLE WEEKEND EDITOR

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

CONTRIBUTING ILLUSTRATOR

ADVERTISING SALES MANAGER

ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE EVENTS COORDINATOR

LISTINGS EDITOR

INTERNS

Allyson Mace

Meera Nagarajan

Liz Wolfson

Lauren Healey

Iain Shaw

Meera Nagarajan

Michelle Volansky

Lauren Healey

Izaiah Johnson, Lauren Healey, David Kovaluk, Christina Musgrave, Carmen Troesser, Michelle Volansky

Lauren Healey, Meera Nagarajan, Alexander Olson, Iain Shaw, Matt Sorrell, Michelle Volansky, Liz Wolfson

Vidhya Nagarajan

Allyson Mace

Kelli Jones

Amy Hyde

Amy Hyde

Sam Tarter, Jonas Wall

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All contents of Sauce Magazine are copyright ©2001-2023– by Bent Mind Creative Group, LLC. The Sauce name and logo are both registered to the publisher, Bent Mind Creative Group, LLC. Reproduction or other use, in whole or in part, of the contents without permission of

the publisher is strictly prohibited. While the information has been compiled carefully to ensure maximum accuracy at the time of publication, it is provided for general guidance only and is subject to change. The publisher cannot guarantee the accuracy of all information or be responsible for omissions or errors.

EDITORIAL POLICIES The Sauce Magazine mission is to provide St. Louis-area residents and visitors

with unbiased, complete information on the area’s restaurant, bar and entertainment industry. Our editorial content is not influenced by who advertises with Sauce Magazine or saucemagazine.com.

Our reviewers are never provided with complimentary food or drinks from the restaurants in exchange for favorable reviews, nor are their identities as reviewers made known during their visits.

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August 2023 AUGUST 2023 editors' picks last bite features Tune in to St. Louis Public Radio 90.7 FM this month when Sauce joins St. Louis on the Air. contents 22 WHAT’S IN MY COOLER: FLOAT TRIP EDITION by liz wolfson 24 10 REASON WE LOVE PLATYPUS by michelle volansky 34 LANDMARK Frank and Helen’s Pizzeria by matt sorrell 38 STUFF TO DO THIS AUGUST by alexander olson 9 EAT THIS Gideon at Sugarwitch by michelle volansky 10 IN THE KNOW Saturday Morning Carton by liz wolfson 12 DRINK THIS Red sangria at Bar Moro by meera nagarajan 17 HIT LIST 5 new places to try this month by lauren healey, meera nagarajan and iain shaw COVER DETAILS EAT THIS ICE CREAM SANDWICH FROM SUGARWITCH Sugarwitch’s Gideon ice cream sandwich is a chocolate-peanut butter lover’s dream. Learn more at p. 9.
Listen and subscribe to The Sauce, a weekly St. Louis restaurant podcast, available wherever you get your podcasts. New episodes released each Wednesday.
PHOTO BY IZAIAH JOHNSON PHOTO BY CHRISTINA MUSGRAVE
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We’re bewitched by every creative concoction coming out of Sugarwitch’s South City kitchen, but the Gideon ‘witch is our favorite. Every ‘witch is a feat of dessert construction: easy to bite into without cracking a tooth on frozen cookies or squeezing melty ice cream out on all sides. The Gideon is a chocolate-and-peanut butter lover’s dream with a thick slab of housemade vanilla ice cream stuffed with chocolate-covered pretzel chunks and pressed between layers of chewy peanut butter chip brownie. A layer of smooth peanut butter on the bottom adds creaminess and cohesion.

E D I T O R S' PICKS Sugarwitch 7726 Virginia Ave., St. Louis, 573.234.0042, sugarwitchic.com
PHOTO BY IZAIAH JOHNSON
Eat This
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IN THE KNOW

SATURDAY MORNING CARTON

Saturday Morning Carton makes your weekend fresh-baked pastry dreams an at-home reality. A collaborative endeavor of partners Andrew Gillian (the former head baker at now-closed Rise Coffee House) and Caitlin Metz (an illustrator and designer who “makes work about feelings”), each Saturday Morning Carton comes with your choice of two or four muffins in a rotating selection of flavor and a hand-drawn newspaper “with absolutely no actual news – just joy and poetry and feelings,” Metz said.

In late July, Gillian and Metz experimented with including cold brew from Living Room Coffee & Kitchen with their delivery, which Metz hopes will become a regular option. “My dream is that people wake up really sleepy, they run down to their door, grab their carton and coffee and then get back in bed with their pets or kids or partner or favorite book and just get a taste of a slow morning, and that the newspaper is just a pocket of delight,” they said.

Muffin flavors are announced on Mondays; place orders online by Thursday evening for delivery the following Saturday.

caitlinmetz.com/morning; Instagram: @saturdaymorningcarton

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IMAGES COURTESY OF SATURDAY MORNING CARTON

DRINK THIS

The red sangria at Bar Moro is not like other sangrias. Inspired by the restaurant’s wine and vermouth menus, it’s made with whichever Spanish red needs to be used up, vermouth and a sherry-like white wine. These ingredients’ strong, complex flavors add a fermented note that balances the sweetness from passion fruit puree and Spanish orange liqueur. The drink arrives in a glass lined with orange slices and filled to the brim with crushed ice; with the ruby backdrop, it’s as pretty as a stained-glass window. Garnished with fresh gooseberries, it’s the finest, most unique sangria we’ve ever had.

E D I T O R S' PICKS
7610 Wydown Blvd., Clayton, bengalina.com/bar-moro PHOTO BY IZAIAH JOHNSON
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hit list 5 new places to try this month

E D I T O R S' PICKS
PHOTOS BY LAUREN HEALEY

opposite page: maine lobster tail thermidor at katie's pizza at ballpark village, this page, from top: ranch ribeye alla fiorentina and a ruby red rosemary spritz cocktail at katie's pizza at ballpark village

The gorgeous Katie’s Pizza & Pasta inside of Ballpark Village is an artfully designed, 10,000-square-foot space featuring beautiful paintings, sculptures and a grand marble-and-quartzite bar. The space, though massive, is warm and inviting; the open pasta station allows guests to watch pasta being cut and filled while the open kitchen at the back provides the perfect soundtrack for a busy restaurant.

The secondi menu is unique to the restaurant group and offers large, over-the-top plates perfect for sharing. The ranch ribeye alla Fiorentina is a 24-ounce bone-in ribeye presented sliced with crispy fingerling potatoes, arugula salad and a taleggio cheese fondue for dipping. This is meat and potatoes supersized and fancified. The stunning Maine lobster tail thermidor sees tender, sweet pieces of lobster folded in a creamy sauce and presented inside the lobster shell topped with salmon caviar, dill and tarragon. It’s the kind of dish that makes others turn and watch as it’s walked to your table. The tempura-fried whole branzino is also a showstopper, plated with a salad and salsa verde. Other dishes like oysters Fellini (raw oysters with caviar), chicken Parmigiano with Fontina and prosciutto, and seared, skin-on king salmon with chickpea and summer vegetable stew, are new to the menu as well.

751 Clark Ave., St. Louis, 314.942.2416, katiespizzaandpasta.com

BLACK SALT

Start your meal with the samosa chaat, potato samosas lashed with sweet, tangy tamarind chutney and a fresh and spicy blast of mint chutney. A cool drizzle of plain yogurt works to chill the underlying heat of the samosa’s chiles and cumin laced potato filling. There’s a variety of biryanis (spiced rice dishes) like goat, paneer, or lamb; our favorites were the chicken and best of all, the veggie. The breads here were fabulous; if you’re feeling adventurous, try the garlic-truffle naan or the chile-garlic naan which were standouts. The assorted bread basket comes with garlic and plain naan and also a flaky paratha, a more neutral option that easily went with saucy main dishes like ajwaini bhindi, sauteed okra glazed in a tomato-based sauce, or a rich rogan josh made with lamb.

1709 Clarkson Road, Chesterfield, 636.204.6441, blacksaltstl.com

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PHOTOS BY LAUREN HEALEY
KATIE'S PIZZA BALLPARK VILLAGE
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The Preston at the Chase Park Plaza has finally reopened after a yearslong, pandemic-related hiatus with a new focus on French fine dining. The pretzel croissants (one of the few items ported over from the previous menu) are as delicious as ever –buttery, flaky pieces of the pastry tear off with ease to scoop up a dollop of heavenly housemade jam. The jam varies seasonally, but the strawberry iteration we tried was so succulent, we had to have another portion brought to the table.

We also enjoy the terrine de canard, a duck-and-bacon meatloaf studded with dried cherries and pistachios. When combined with a bit of each of the accompanying accouterments – cornichons, crusty bread, poached figs, endive and grain mustard – it made a delightful savory bite. The roasted chicken served atop a bed of pommes dauphinoise (similar to potatoes au gratin) and crispy pancetta was moist and tender.

The welcome revival of this particular corner of Midtown gathers momentum with this bright and airy café and bar. High ceilings, leafy plants and floor-toceiling windows set the scene for an enjoyable brunch from a menu largely inspired by owner Anita Abdul-Karim’s Lebanese heritage. The zaatar toast can comfortably be split between two: It features crusty sourdough spread with the eponymous Middle Eastern spice blend and topped with cherry tomatoes, slices of cucumber and feta. Ful medames is a traditional breakfast dish combining warmed fava and garbanzo beans infused with flavor – garlic, cumin and parsley – and comfort in equal measure. For added enjoyment, tear off a piece of the accompanying pita bread and spoon some of the ful on top. Fatteh layers pita chips in a stew of garbanzo beans, eggplant and bell peppers, with yogurt and nuts lending extra flavor and texture. The drink list includes rose lattes and Arabic coffee alongside espresso drinks, and there are cocktails if you’re in celebratory mood.

2700 Locust St., St. Louis, anitacafeandbar.square.site

Red Chili has opened in a former Romano’s Macaroni Grill located inside the parking lot complex at the Chesterfield Mall. Both the space and the menu are huge, with sections like Tandoor appetizers, small plates, dal, dosa, main courses; the list goes on with over 100 items. Look for fusion dishes like the Afghani chicken or the gobi Manchurian, both from the IndoChinese section of the menu. Whatever you do, don’t miss the Andhra chicken curry, a spicy, tangy sauce with big chunks of tender chicken that’s best eaten with their butter naan 963

August 2023 saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 21 PHOTOS COURTESY OF THE PRESTON E D I T O R S' PICKS
212 N.
Blvd, St. Louis, 314.633.7800,
Kingshighway
theprestonstl.com
THE PRESTON ANITA CAFE & BAR
Chesterfield, 636.812.2179, redchilliresturant.com
Chesterfield Center,
RED CHILI The Preston at the Chase Park Plaza
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what’s in my cooler

FLOAT TRIP EDITION

EXPERIENCED RIVER FLOATERS KNOW there are a few crucial components to a successful day on the river: sun and bug protection; dry bags for phones, wallets and other valuables; plentiful snacks to keep you fueled for paddling (or, when necessary, dragging); and the right mix of delicious, glass-free beverages to provide both hydration and a sustained – but not debilitating – buzz. What’s the key to making sure your cooler is equipped to meet every need? To find out, we asked a group of beverage industry professionals: “What’s in your float trip cooler?”

Mixed drinks

“If you want to go pinky up on a floating adventure, dump a little lemon juice, a touch of sugar and some fruity or floral liqueur in your bag of wine [to make frosé]. Freeze it overnight and toss in the cooler on the way. Keeps the beer cold and slushes up nicely after a bit of summer hits it.” -

Cooper, director of beverage and bar operations, Niche Food Group

“My go-to, I recently learned, is called calimocho or kalimotxo – we always called it South City Sangria. [It’s] equal parts Coke and any red boxed wine (Franzia, preferred) over ice with a squeeze of lime. You can even skip cups and ice if you keep the soda cold and top off the can. Cheap, easy, you can drink a million of them and most importantly: No glass on the river.” -

“Something in the margarita/ daiquiri family is essential. … The citrus-forward classics are too crushable on the water to

not bring, and they always hit the spot. Don’t forget to dilute if you’re just building in the bottle to account for dilution lost in not shaking [with ice]. We want to have some drinks, but we also want to make it through the whole float.” - Luc Michalski, beverage director, Wild Carrot

“We love Pinckney Bend – it’s our favorite local gin – and they make a canned gin and tonic that’s locally produced and a little lower ABV than what you’d mix yourself – it’s great for all-day drinking. Cocktail Courier’s Party Can Triple Spice Margarita is also great; it comes in a 1.75-liter tin so there’s enough for everyone to have some, plus it’s made with good tequila, lime juice and a hint of red pepper that counterbalances any tinniness from the tin.” - Simon Lehrer, buyer, Parker’s Table

Beer

“My wife and I and our friends love getting out on Missouri’s rivers during the summer and fall.

We generally pack multiple types of drinks for our enjoyment on the river. Besides giant jugs of water to stay hydrated, we’ve always got some tasty brews and seltzer waters to sip on throughout the day. 2nd Shift Brewing Firefly Golden Ale, Little Big Hop hazy session IPA and Technical Ecstasy Czech-style Pilsner have been some of our favorites as of late; and then we always toss in some Mighty Kind CBD seltzer water to keep things chill.” - Scott Pelizzaro, general manager, 2nd Shift Brewing

“To me, nothing beats an ice-cold Busch (from a can; it’s up to us to keep our rivers glass-free). Busch Light Apple has become available around my area; a tall boy of that with a heavy pour of Campari makes a super fun, easy float trip drink. Just pack a flask of Campari in the beer cooler.” - Sophie Huddart, bartender, Lazy Tiger

“[Natural aka] Natty Light: the club soda of beers. Low ABV and doesn’t break the bank even if you have to dump half of every can due to accidental river dunks or bee invasions.” -

Wine

“I’m going with the Las Jaras Waves canned red wine. This is a juicy red blend from Northern California crafted to chill down and relax with. The comedian Eric Wareheim is part owner of Las

Jaras, and you’re always getting something quirky and unique coming from this winery. The cans are also half bottles (375 milliliters), so you have a lot more than you might think to sip on. Great option for the wine lovers!”

“We love French Pool Toy rosé, a rosé that comes in a plastic bottle. It’s clean and fresh tasting, fresh and tart as you’d expect of a Provençal-style rosé. At $10 per bottle, everyone can have their own!” - Simon

Non-alcoholic

“I’m so stuck on Aha Peach + Honey sparkling water right now. It’s crisp, refreshing and delicious with whatever’s in your flask if you decide to go for the spike. It screams summer no matter what you do to it. My personal preference is mixing with 1220 Spirits Barrel Reserve Origin gin.” - Melinda

“Lately, I’ve also been drinking a lot of Casamara Club botanical sodas and Athletic Brewing Co.’s Daypack seltzers , which both conveniently come in cans and are perfect for a sober float or just managing the drunkenness of a not-sober float. Remember: You’re out there all day, and nobody wants to babysit your ass.” - Luc

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10 REASONS WE LOVE

PLATYPUS

PHOTO BY CARMEN TROESSER

OPPOSITE PAGE: THE BAR AT PLATYPUS, THIS PAGE: BLUE JULIUS FROZEN COCKTAIL WITH GIN, ORANGE JUICE, CURACAO AND VANILLA ICE CRAM

PHOTO BY CHRISTINA MUSGRAVE

FRIES AT DUCKBILL, INSIDE PLATYPUS

PHOTOS BY CHRISTINA MUSGRAVE

Veteran bartenders Tony Saputo and Meredith Barry opened Platypus in the Grove in late 2021, but the cocktail-dive bar hybrid feels like the kind of well-loved neighborhood joint you’ve been visiting for years. Here are 10 reasons we keep coming back.

1.

Platypus offers five house cocktails that rotate frequently – sometimes even daily. Whether you’re trying a take on a classic Negroni with barrel-aged gin, a daiquiri with chocolate bitters garnished with a granola bar, or a savory concoction with crab butter (yes, really), picking a new surprise off their chalkboard is half the fun.

2.

In a post-Covid world, we’re hard-pressed to find reliable eats

in this town open past 10 p.m. Eat Duckbill, the food counter at Platypus, is open seven days a week from 4 p.m. to 12:30 a.m.

3.

There’s kind of a choose-your-ownadventure vibe at Platypus, with a lively front bar area, a laid-back lounging room in the middle, a back dining room that transforms into an event space as needed, and a chill back patio. Our favorite spot is in one of two cozy booths in the middle room. It’s close enough to keep an eye on all the action while

still tucking into a more private, quiet experience.

4.

While there’s always a respectable roster of craft beers on tap, nothing hits the spot quite like a big, frosty mug straight out of the freezer filled to the brim with foamy Busch.

5.

Pinball enthusiasts will be delighted to hit the two cabinets that regularly get switched out in the lounge room. There’s also a classic Ms. PacMan for good measure.

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FROM LEFT, OWNER OF DUCKBILL GRANT HEMAN, AND CO-OWNERS OF PLATYPUS TONY SAPUTO AND MEREDITH BARRY. PHOTO BY MICHELLE VOLANSKY

6.

Eat Duckbill is a refuge for vegan bar food lovers. Shatteringly crisp, fried tofu nuggets are irresistible with hints of soy sauce, rice wine vinegar and ginger. Their perfectly seasoned fries are some of our favorites in town, especially dipped in housemade ranch dressing (sorry, vegans). Even the spicy roasted cauliflower and tangy Brussels sprouts are top notch. Pro tip: Order a side-by-side of both veggies together for the perfect spicy-sweet combo.

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PHOTOS BY CHRISTINA MUSGRAVE
PHOTO BY CARMEN TROESSER

OPPOSITE PAGE: DRINKS FROM THE FROZEN MACHINE, THIS PAGE: A LITTLE CHILI PUNCH MADE WITH CLARIFIED MILK

7.

The wall behind the bar displays a stunning platypus mural by Jason Spencer of Killer Napkins that pays tribute to Brian “Shagy” Kennedy, a late friend of Saputo’s.

8.

Our eyes always light up when we clock a frozen drink machine behind a bar. In addition to the rotating cocktails, there’s always something new and exciting

spinning in the barrel, from takes on margaritas to espresso martinis and piña coladas.

9.

The signature item at Eat Duckbill is Chooch’s Gourmet Popcorn Chicken, named for owner Grant Heman’s daughter. Crunchy and juicy, they’re irresistible dunked into any of the five dipping sauces – barbecue, sweet chile, Buffalo, agave-mustard or ranch.

10.

There’s always something fun going on, from karaoke and open mic comedy to Izumi hosting Japanese street food pop-ups on the patio. DJs and live music are weekly constants. Follow Platypus on Instagram to stay up to date on the diverse schedule.

4501 Manchester Ave., St. Louis, 314.448.1622, drinkplatypus.com; Instagram: @drinkplatypus

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PHOTO BY CHRISTINA MUSGRAVE

5 St. Louis caterers to try now

Throwing a party or event and not sure where to start? Save some energy by letting the professionals help in the kitchen. These St. Louis area catering companies and event spaces work around the clock to ensure both you and your guests stay happy.

PHOTO COURTESY OF JOSEPH WADE PHOTOGRAPHY PARTNER CONTENT

CYRANO’S CAFÉ

The private room at Cyrano’s is a beautiful, unique space for your next private event. With its bright colors and eclectic interior design, it offers something you can’t find in traditional banquet rooms. Cyrano’s can accommodate up to 50 people for a sit-down dinner and up to 70 people for a cocktail-style event. Cyrano’s offers a flexible menu based on the full restaurant menu starting at only $16 for lunch and $20 for dinner. And don't forget the housemade, awardwinning desserts. Located in beautiful Webster Groves, Cyrano’s is centrally located and close to major highways. For more information, email events.cyranos@yahoo.com.

603 E. Lockwood Ave., Webster Groves, 314.963.3434, cyranos.com

DEFIANCE RIDGE VINEYARDS

The first winery on the Missouri 94 wine trail, Defiance Ridge Vineyards offers gorgeous views of the Missouri River valley and has accommodations for any gathering small or large, from private parties and corporate events to weddings. The winery offers full in-house catering options in its large, indoor open-air, climate-controlled space, as well as its various outdoor patios with a multitude of seating options. Defiance Ridge is also a winner of The Knot’s “Best of Weddings” hall of fame. 2711 S. Missouri 94, Defiance, 636.798.2288, defianceridgevineyards.com

KNEAD BAKEHOUSE + PROVISIONS

KNEAD caters beautiful, individually packaged breakfast and lunch bags or bundles for delivery or pickup for events of any size and within your budget. You'll find KNEAD's 11-year-old Sourdough throughout the entire menu! Breakfast offerings include breakfast sandwiches, Sourdough pastries, parfaits, fruit salads, Blueprint coffee, and fresh-squeezed orange juice. Lunch offerings include signature and seasonal sandwiches + salads, locally made potato chips, and Sourdough shortbread sugar cookies. Every purchase from their seasonal menu supports local farmers and artisans throughout Missouri + the Midwest. Once your order is placed online, the catering concierge team will call to confirm and discuss contactless delivery and setup or pickup. Order online kneadbakehouse.com/catering or email catering@kneadbakehouse.com for custom pastry, breakfast, lunch, or dinner catering menus! 3467 Hampton Ave., St. Louis, 314.376.4361, kneadbakehouse.com

NAVIN’S BBQ

Navin’s BBQ offers several catering packages – including meats or sandwiches, side dishes, sauces, plates and utensils – to cover all sizes of events. They are flexible and will work with you to provide the exact barbecue experience you’re looking for, whether you’re throwing a party or hosting a corporate event. In addition, they offer individual sandwich and chip boxes, which include one-meat sandwiches of brisket, pulled pork, smoked turkey or pulled chicken. Or choose any of the signature sandwiches such as the highly popular jerk sandwich. There are even some vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free options.

Visit navinsbbq.com/catering for details.

3559 Arsenal St., St. Louis, 314.449.1185, navinsbbq.com

ORLANDO BANQUETS AND CATERING

This family-owned and -operated business has been helping St. Louis celebrate with delicious food and outstanding service for over 54 years.

Specializing in trendsetting, customized menus and creative presentation, they offer everything from drop-off party trays and simple buffets to elegant, formal dining, butler-passed hors d’oeuvres and interactive chef stations. Orlando’s

caters to private homes and offices and is also a preferred caterer at over 40 unique venues, now including The Grand Ballroom downtown. They offer all-inclusive packages at their two Orlando’s Event Centers and a bed and breakfast log cabin, The Lodge at Grant’s Trail.

2050 Dorsett Village, Maryland Heights, 314.453.9000; 4300 Hoffmeister Ave., St. Louis, 314.638.6660, orlandogardens.com

THE PASTA HOUSE CO.

For almost 50 years, The Pasta House Co. has been a St. Louis tradition offering both fullservice catering as well as several conveniently located restaurants throughout the St. Louis bi-state area. With a variety of cuisine choices that extend beyond its traditional restaurant offerings, The Pasta House Co. guarantees you will find an option for your taste and budget, whether you are planning a wedding, office party, seminar or special event. Catering amenities include pickup, delivery and full-service staffing. Planning for a smaller group? All Pasta House Co. restaurants offer a Parties to Go menu and Family Meal Deals to serve to friends and family. Call the catering department number below or email catering@thepastahouse.com for more information.

Multiple locations, 314.644.1400, pastahouse.com

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PHOTO COURTESY OF KNEAD BAKEHOUSE + PROVISIONS

FRANK & HELEN’S PIZZERIA

The modest, unassuming building at 8111 Olive Blvd. in University City, with its brick facade and old-school signs, may not have a ton of traditional curb appeal, but it houses a culinary legacy that began during the Eisenhower administration.

The story begins in 1956 when brothers Frank and Jules Seitz decided to open a restaurant at Midland and Olive boulevards in University City. Jules

eventually sold his share of the business to Frank, who called the eatery, simply, Frank’s. He soon brought his wife, Betty, into the fold along with his sister, Helen Weissler. Helen brought her garlic dressing recipe (which is still on the menu) and her name to the venture, and Frank & Helen’s Pizzeria was born.

In the late 1960s, a new chapter of the Frank & Helen’s story began. Frank bought an old carwash, located at 8111 Olive Blvd., bricked it up and

opened the current Frank & Helen’s location that continues to be revered by St. Louis diners. In addition to the location change, at this time Frank also introduced the restaurant’s other signature dish, Broasted chicken, a proprietary process that includes marinating the chicken for 12 hours, breading it and then cooking it in a pressure cooker of sorts. The result is a bird that’s crispy on the outside and ohso-juicy inside; it continues to be a fan favorite to this day.

After passing through a couple of hands, current owners Patrick and Rebecca Horvath bought the restaurant in 2008. Patrick had worked for the previous owners for seven years before he and his wife decided to become the caretakers of the Frank & Helen’s legacy, and the Horvaths have remained true to the core tenets that have enshrined Frank & Helen’s in the hearts of St. Louis diners ever since.

The menu hasn’t changed much; pizza and Broasted chicken remain as the PHOTOS BY DAVID KOVALUK

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LAST BITE // LANDMARK

cornerstones. The dough and sauce for the pizzas are still made daily, and the pizzas continue to be cooked in two ovens named after the restaurant’s namesakes: Frank, which has been pumping out pies for more than 50 years, and Helen 2.0, a relative newbie at 10 years of service. As far as decor, stepping inside the restaurant “is like going back to 1975,” Rebecca Horvath said. Her favorite interior design element? The faux-Tiffany light fixtures adorning the ceiling.

“They really bring that 1970s feel to the restaurant, and they’re a lot of fun,” she said. “I probably will never get rid of those.”

During their tenure the Horvaths have made a few updates, like refocusing on fresh ingredients in the kitchen, but most changes have been modest and intended to bolster the brand without disrupting it. Honoring the legacy is key. “It’s not about us,” but rather the memories of the multiple generations of diners that have passed through the doors over the years, Horvath said.

As it nears its 70th anniversary, Frank & Helen’s continues to thrive. Covid slowed things down some, but Horvath said they were able to pivot to carryout only and retain most of their staff. She said the focus right now is on sustaining the legacy. The restaurant is hemmed

in on either side by other businesses, so expansion is probably not happening anytime soon, though Horvath said she’d love to have a banquet room and maybe a bit more elbow room.

And the chances of a new location, or a second place?

“It’s a possibility,” she said, now that her kids are older. The Horvaths live in Fenton and have discussed the idea of opening another location closer to home. Another, larger University City location could also be in the cards. “We believe strongly that what will be will be, and when we find the right spot for Frank & Helen’s to take its next step, hopefully

we’ll have our ducks in a row to be able to do that,” Horvath said.

The Horvaths have no plans to retire just yet; but when the time comes, they’ll be picky about who’ll end up getting the keys. “It would need to be someone who has the best interest of Frank & Helen’s at heart,” she said. “Not some businessman who wants to add to his repertoire of restaurants. We’ve put too much heart and soul, blood, sweat and tears into this place to see it not go to someone who loves it as much as we do.”

8111 Olive Blvd., University City, 314.997.0666, frankandhelens.com

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AUGUST

Pedal the Cause: A World Without Cancer Day

Aug. 4 – participating bars and restaurants, pedalthecause.org/awwcd

Support cancer research at Siteman Cancer Center and Siteman Kids by grabbing food and drink from participating bars and restaurants during A World Without Cancer Day. Seoul Taco, Nudo House, Chicken Out and Ices Plain & Fancy are just some of the local businesses that will be donating a portion of their proceeds to Pedal the Cause. Find a full list of participating venues online.

SerbFest

Aug. 5 – 11 a.m. to 9 p.m., and Aug. 6 – 11 a.m. to 6 p.m., 1910 Serbian Drive, St. Louis, 314.776.3262, serbianchurchstlouis.org

Holy Trinity Serbian Orthodox Church has been hosting this celebration of Serbian culture since 1987. Sample a wide variety of traditional Serbian dishes like cevaps (sausages made with beef, pork and 22 spices) and sarma (ground chuck and pork sauteed with onions and spices, wrapped in a cabbage leaf) before listening to traditional music and exploring historical and cultural showcases about the Serbian community. Free admission.

Blues at the Arch Festival and Brunch

Aug. 11 - 5 to 8 p.m., Aug. 12 - noon to 10 p.m., and Aug. 13 - 10 a.m. to 2 p.m., Gateway Arch North Entrance, 200 Washington Ave., St. Louis, 314.881.2015, archpark.org

Nearly a dozen musicians will gather just a stone’s throw away from the Arch to celebrate the blues and its history. Drinks from Narwhal’s Crafted, 4 Hands Brewing Co. and others, plus food from Kimchi Guys, Treaux’s Cajun BBQ and more complement music from performers like Miz Renee Smith and Larry McCray. Fireworks Saturday night and an elevated buffet with chicken and waffles,

charcuterie and unlimited mimosas at the Sunday blues brunch close out the weekend. Tickets available online.

Taste of St. Louis

Aug. 11 - 4 to 10 p.m., Aug. 12 – 11 a.m. to 10 p.m., and Aug. 13 - 11 a.m. to 6 p.m., Ballpark Village, 601 Clark Ave., St. Louis, thetastestl.com

One of the biggest free, food-centric events of the summer is back at Ballpark Village. Local restaurants from around the area will be bringing their best to this three-day celebration of the food community. Live bands, local vendors and all the food you can eat. What’s more to want? Free admission.

Food Truck Friday

Aug. 18 – 4 to 8 p.m., Tower Grove Park, 4501 Southwest Drive, St. Louis, 314.772.8004, saucefoodtruckfriday.com

Like tough choices? Tower Grove Park offers bites and sips from local food trucks on select Fridays this summer through early fall. More than 20 of our favorite trucks will be there and, luckily, you can’t go wrong with any of them. Free admission.

Cherokee Street Brewed Arts Festival

August 19 – 1 to 5 p.m., Cherokee Street, St. Louis, cherokeestreet.com/brewedarts

It’s the perfect combo of beer and local fine art. You’ll find more than 25 locally brewed beers, curated by Saint Louis Hop Shop, spread across one mile of Cherokee Street. Get lost in the local art both indoors and outdoors as live music plays through the day. You even get a complimentary tasting glass. Tickets available online.

SLAM Block Party

Aug. 19 – noon to 5 p.m., 1 Fine Arts Drive, St. Louis, 314.721.0072, slam.org

To kick off the opening of The Culture: Hip Hop and

Contemporary Art in the 21st Century exhibition celebrating 50 years of hip-hop, the Saint Louis Art Museum is hosting one of the biggest block parties in town. Check out one of the many live performers while snagging a bite from local food trucks. You can also get free tickets to The Culture for that day when you attend. Free admission.

Alton Food Truck Festival

Aug. 26 – 4 to 8 p.m., 1 Riverfront Drive, Alton, 618.463.3580, altonriverfrontamphitheater.com

Missed Sauce Food Truck Friday in Tower Grove Park or just want some more food truck action? Hop across the river to the Alton Amphitheater where 19 fabulous food trucks converge. Try dishes from Mr. Noodle, Pig on a Wing, Cajun Seduction, The Sweet Divine and more. Free admission.

Festival of Nations

Aug. 26 & 27 – 10 a.m. to 8 p.m., Tower Grove Park, 4257 Northeast Drive, St. Louis, festivalofnationsstl.org

St. Louis is home to people with roots spanning the globe. Festival of Nations celebrates the city’s cultural diversity by featuring music, art and flavors from around the world. Come stay a while and absorb the live performances, exhibitions and, of course, the food. Free admission.

Evolution Festival

Aug. 26 & 27 – 2 p.m., Forest Park, St. Louis, evolutionfestival.com

This celebration of music, bourbon and barbecue has a stacked lineup on all fronts. Sugarfire Smoke House, Heavy Smoke, Beast Craft BBQ Co. and more provide the barbecue. Look for bourbon from both national and local brands, including Switchgrass Spirits and Still 630. Live music by The Black Keys, The Black Crowes, Brandi Carlile, Ben Harper & the Innocent Criminals and many more rounds out the event. Tickets available online.

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