5 minute read

It's Thai-m to Relax

I’m walking through the jungle alone on a tiny island off of Thailand, I haven’t seen anyone in a mile, and what’s trekking through the trees in my direction but essentially a lizard the size of a small alligator. It glances my way and sticks out its black snake-like tongue.

Luckily I’d seen a much smaller version in Phulay Bay, A Ritz-Carlton Reserve’s pond during breakfast this morning, and googled it over a plate of sticky rice and mango. So I at least know it’s a water monitor and okay to step back and observe instead of run for my life back to the beach. Spoiler alert: this is as wild as my trip gets, a small startle in an otherwise plush vacation.

Rewind a few days, I started the week in Bangkok. Following an early flight from Da Nang, Vietnam and an hour and a half (and $15) taxi ride through the overwhelming city, the driver pulls into a serenely landscaped driveway. I immediately know The Peninsula Bangkok will be an oasis. I am greeted by the eager-to-please staff and then my college best friend, Cassandra, who joined me for the trip.

As soon as I knock, Cassandra throws open the door to our room. The level of our excitement is matched only by the grandeur of our suite and expanse of the view of never-ending skyscrapers across the river below.

After a couple hours lounging around the suite, eating macarons and sipping on coconut water from the coconuts we were welcomed with, we decide to explore the Chatuchak Weekend Market. We make our way through the 27 acres of stalls selling everything you can imagine—whimsical headdresses, creative clothes I can only dream of being cool enough to wear, a lot of unidentifiable yet intriguing food, and durian. Durian is a major don’t. Tasting notes include gym socks, vomit, chives, and powdered sugar. There’s a reason this fruit is banned on Southeast Asian public transportation. Don’t say I didn’t warn you.

Our Thai baht goes far and when we’ve bought as much as we can carry, we jump in a taxi back to The Peninsula for an evening at Thiptara restaurant. Floating between the river lapping at the platform right below my chair and the lanterns hanging from the trees, we enjoy a tasting menu with Thai wine pairings. From the spicy soup with tiger prawns to the roasted scallops with Thai herbs, each dish is a flavorful and warm welcome to Thailand.

After sleeping a solid 10 hours, I pull back the curtains to reveal the sun rising through the clouds over the skyline. We head to the hotel’s River Cafe and Terrace and are seated at a table outside close to the water. The breakfast buffet has everything you can imagine and the most exquisite versions of it. There is even an attendant dedicated solely to slicing perfectly ripe and sweet Manila mangos. Needless to say, we go back to that station a couple times.

After our last helpings of fruit and French pastries, we make our way to The Spa for Thai massages. My treatment room looks fit for royalty with ornamental decor, four beds, and a hydrotherapy tub. The masseuse stretches and bends me every which way, to the point where I feel like a new person.

The Peninsula Bangkok

The Peninsula Bangkok

Phulay Bay, A Ritz Carlton Reserve

Phulay Bay, A Ritz Carlton Reserve

The Peninsula Bangkok

The Peninsula Bangkok

Temple of Dawn

Temple of Dawn

That evening we take The Peninsula’s Sundown Cocktail Cruise along the Chao Phraya River to see the city landmarks. Prosecco in hand we take in, among others, The Grand Palace (built in 1782) which is a now a museum and hosts royal ceremonies, and Temple of Dawn (Wat Arun), a porcelain covered pagoda. It’s a comfortable and time efficient way to see the monuments, with no other tourists in sight.

The following day, after a relaxing morning painting small elephant statues at The Peninsula’s Elephant Parade shop where proceeds benefit elephant sanctuaries, we hop on a quick flight to Krabi to take the leisureliness to the next level.

Upon arrival at Phulay Bay, A Ritz-Carlton Reserve, we are introduced to Moss our “Ton Hong” (personal assistant) who drives us through the palm tree filled courtyards and modern royal purple painted walls of the property, past the pristine tropical screensaver that is Krabi beach, to Reserve Villa 12, our home for the next few days. And wow. I’m greeted by a front yard with a lawn, lap pool, and an ocean view. It only gets better from there. Passing over the porch, with a daybed big enough for eight, and through the giant glass doors, the villa boasts sky-high ceilings and the biggest, fluffiest beds in the world. Heavy wood doors open to a bathroom like I’ve never seen before, and which accounts for half the square footage of the villa. The centerpiece: a marble clover shaped bathtub, with a view of the zen backyard, which also has a bathtub.

The next day, out of the extensive excursions the hotel offers, we choose to visit Hong Island. Departing the stretch of sand in front of the resort on a long-tail boat, 30 minutes later we arrive at the pristine island. While Cassandra snorkels in the crystal clear water of the bay lined by towering cliffs, I take a walk through the jungle, encountering aforementioned water monitor. Finally we reconvene to sunbathe on the white sand. It starts to rain (like really pour) on the way back, so upon arrival we jump off the boat and run past the pool and through the grassy rolling hills of the property to the spa for Thai massages.

When the sun comes out we park ourselves on a daybed near the Chomtawan Bar overlooking the beach. As hours pass, we sip Thai Mojitos, snack on miang kum—flavorful Thai condiments and cashews wrapped in betel leaves, and Cassandra beats me in game after game of tic-tac-toe and connect four. Come evening, a live band starts playing Rod Stewart covers and a staff member rakes designs in the sand as the entire sky turns neon pink then orange.

At 7 p.m. we return to the outdoor entrance pavilion for the lighting of the 2,000 candles in the walls. The flames reflecting in the pool below to make it seem like they’d brought down the night sky for us. I’m having a hard time recalling a more incredible hotel, or trip for that matter.

peninsula.com/bangkok

ritzcarlton.com/en/hotels/phulay-bay

Written by Ottocina Ryan