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MAGAZINE OF THE MOUNTAINWEST
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SALTLAKEMAGAZINE.COM
30 y e ars
1 LITTLE
BLACK DRESS 5 HOLIDAY EVENTS A UTAH MYSTERY THE DISAPPEARANCE OF EVERETT RUESS
December 2019
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F I N E J E W E L L E RY B Y C H A R L O T T E LY N G G A A R D
7 BD | 10 BA | 5-Car Garage | 19,882 SF 4101 S Hidden Ridge Circle, Bountiful
5 BD | 5 BA | 3-Car Garage | 5,948 SF 379 N Connecticut Lane, Salt Lake City
5 BD | 5 BA | 3-Car Garage | 4,958 SF 1438 Circle Way, Salt Lake City
4 BD | 4 BA | 2-Car Garage | 4,534 SF 1275 E 2nd Avenue, Salt Lake City
Happy Holidays, Wishing you a joyous holiday season and a prosperous new year.
Liz Slager 801.971.2252 liz.slager@sothebysrealty.com summitsothebysrealty.com 6 BD | 7 BA | 5-Car Garage | 7,985 SF 1441 E South Temple, Salt Lake City This material is based upon information that we consider reliable, but because it has been supplied by third parties, we cannot represent that it is accurate or complete, including price, or withdrawal without notice; square footage is an estimate only. ©MMXIX Sotheby’s International Realty Affiliates, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Sotheby’s International Realty® is a licensed trademark to Sotheby’s International Realty Affiliates, Inc. An Equal Opportunity Company. Each Office Is Independently Owned And Operated. Copyright© Summit Sotheby’s International Realty 2019.
SELLING UTA H’S MOST D IST IN CT IVE P RO P E RT IES
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Melissa Goff 801.557.0884 Wasatch Springs HEBER CITY, UTAH
New Homes Just Minutes from Park City
5 BD | 4 BA | 4,258 SF | $1,250,000 Thomas E. Wright 801.652.5700 1978 E Olympus Point Drive HOLLADAY, UTAH
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6 BD | 8 BA | 9,415 SF | $8,650,000 Michael Swan 435.659.1433 8785 N Lookout Lane PARK CITY, UTAH
Stunning Upwall Family Retreat
View all of our listings at SummitSothebysRealty.com This material is based upon information that we consider reliable, but because it has been supplied by third parties, we cannot represent that it is accurate or complete, including price, or withdrawal without notice; square footage is an estimate only. An Equal Opportunity Company. ©MMXIX Sotheby’s International Realty Affiliates, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Sotheby’s International Realty® is a licensed trademark to Sotheby’s International Realty Affiliates, Inc. Each office is independently owned and operated. Copyright© Summit Sotheby’s International Realty 2019.
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Is your knee pain getting in the way of your quality of life-including quality of sleep, ability to exercise and poor energy? In the documentary, Pain Revealed, one of my patients Chris, shared his story of what it was like living with debilitating knee pain.
aEXERCISE WAS PAINFUL. aWALKING UP OR DOWN STAIRS WAS EXCRUCIATING. aHE GAINED WEIGHT AND LOST CONFIDENCE. aPOOR SLEEP. ……even though he’d done everything his doctors asked him to do.
The CRITICAL MISTAKE most people (and doctors) make is to only treat the “symptom” of pain, and they don’t take the necessary time to UNDERSTAND and address the “root cause” of the problem which is DEGENERATION. Our talented medical team has identified 2 fail-proof ways to reverse knee pain. 1. Ordering the right tests that identify root causes of arthritis. 2. Accurately and safely administer the correct regenerative medicine treatments like stem therapy, platelet rich plasma (PRP), ozone and acupuncture. This breakthrough treatment combination makes old knees young again. This is the same process that we took Chris through and he said, “Because of the work performed at East West Health, my life has dramatically been changed for the better. I am walking without pain, lost almost 30 pounds, and am confident in my future.”
I know so many people who have accepted that knee pain is just a normal part of their lives. Don’t let this be you by calling us at (801)582-2011 to set up a NO COST, NO OBLIGATION Knee health asssessment today to see if you qualify for care. The first 10 callers will also receive a FREE copy of my newest book, Your Healthy Self. You can also email me directly at regan@acueastwest.com or go to acueastwest.com to find the clinic nearest you. To your health, Regan Archibald, Lac, FMP Founder, East West Health
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© 2019 BHH Affiliates | LLC. An independently owned and operated subsidiary of HomeServices of America | Inc. | a Berkshire Hathaway affiliate | and a franchisee of BHH Affiliates | LLC. Berkshire Hathaway HomeServices and the Berkshire Hathaway HomeServices symbol are registered service marks of HomeServices of America | Inc. Equal Housing Opportunity. Information deemed reliable but not guaranteed.
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contents
NOV/DEC 2019 FEATURES
66 THE LEGEND OF
EVERETT RUESS BY MARY BROWN MALOUF
A young artist/wanderer disappeared into the southern Utah desert 85 years ago and still haunts the imagination of many today.
75 EXPLORE! THE
GREATEST SNOW ON EARTH BY JEN HILL
Utah’s snow is great—but why? And, considering how fast the world is changing, will it always be the greatest?
84 LBD: LUXE OPTIONS PHOTO ADAM FINKLE
B Y S A LT L A K E M AG A Z I N E S TA F F
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Chic and versatile, the little black dress is your most fashionable friend for the winter holidays.
years
years
on the cover
This heroically snowy cover is an original by our graphic artist, Scott Peterson.
N O V / D E C 2 0 1 9 | S A LT L A K E M A G A Z I N E . C O M
contents 91 a&e
Listening to the Utah Symphony Orchestra from a seat in Abravanel Hall is one thing. Listening to the Utah Symphony Orchestra from the stage is another. Plus, jazz and the calendar. BY MARY BROWN MALOUF, JEN HILL
99 The social
Grand Opening of the Peace House, Women in Business
105 on the table
Return of a PC chef, Shake Shack, Celeste and lotsa meatballs
49
BY MARY BROWN MALOUF
142 bar fly
The ancient game of darts, Tony Moreno—old fashioned character. BY MARY BROWN MALOUF, JEREMY PUGH
152 my turn
Traveling by thumb. BY JOHN SHUFF
29 the hive
Tis the season to visit the Madeleine. The city is permitting more MILs in SLC backyards. Ways to lift your neck and jowls without going under the knife. Can you learn to be funny?
46 statewide
The self-destructing city: Is SLC killing its golden goose? BY JEREMY PUGH & MARY BROWN MALOUF
49 get out
Sun Valley, ithe birthplace of American resort skiing. Plus: Don’t call it ping-pong! BY TONY GILL
59 park city
From an award-winning bartender from Tupelo, learn to mix 3 classics like a pro. BY TONY GILL
105 volume 30 number 6 Salt Lake magazine (ISSN# 1524-7538) is published bimonthly (February, April, June, August, October and December) by Utah Partners Publishing, Ltd. Editorial, advertising and administrative offices: 515 S. 700 East, Suite 3i, SLC, UT 84102. Telephone 801-485-5100; fax 801-485-5133. Subscriptions: One year ($24.95); for shipping outside the U.S. add $45. Toll-free subscription number: 877-5535363. Periodicals Postage Paid at Salt Lake City, Utah, and additional mailing offices. Copyright 2019, JES Publishing Corp. No whole or part of the contents may be reproduced in any manner without prior written permission of Salt Lake magazine, excepting individually copyrighted articles and photographs. Manuscripts accompanied by SASE are accepted, but no responsibility will be assumed for unsolicited contributions. POSTMASTER: Send address corrections to Salt Lake magazine, PO Box 820, Boca Raton, FL 33429.
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THE MAGAZINE FOR UTAH PRESIDENT & PUBLISHER
Margaret Mary Shuff
EXECUTIVE EDITOR
Mary Brown Malouf
D I G I TA L E D I T O R
Jeremy Pugh PA R K C I T Y L I F E E D I T O R
Tony Gill WR ITING & E DITING CON TR IBU TORS
Tony Gill, Jen Hill, Jeremy Pugh ART DIRECTOR
Jeanine Miller GR APHIC DESIGNER
Scott Peterson S TA F F P H O T O G R A P H E R
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D I R E C T O R O F O P E R AT I O N S & P R O D U C T I O N
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PRESIDENT & PUBLISHER
Margaret Mary Shuff GROUP EDITOR-IN- CHIEF
Marie Speed CON TROLLE R
Jeanne Greenberg EXECUTIVE EDITOR O F L I F E S T Y L E P U B L I C AT I O N S
Brad Mee PUBLISHERS OF
Boca Raton Delray Beach magazine Mizner’s Dream Worth Avenue Salt Lake magazine Utah Bride & Groom Utah Style & Design Greater Boca Raton Chamber of Commerce Annual Salt Lake magazine is published six times a year by Utah Partners Publishing, Ltd. The entire contents of Salt Lake magazine are copyrighted and may not be reproduced without the expressed written consent of the publisher. Salt Lake magazine accepts no responsibility for the return of unsolicited manuscripts and/or photographs and assumes no liability for products or services advertised herein. Salt Lake magazine reserves the right to edit, rewrite or refuse material and is not responsible for products. Please refer to corporate masthead.
We value the ideas and interests of our community and readers. Story pitches, photo submissions and event information can be submitted to editor@saltlakemagazine.com for publication consideration.
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High Star Ranch offers over 1,000 acres of year-round recreation with direct access to the Uinta National Forest. There are over 30 miles of trails for mountain biking, hiking and equestrian use, and over 16 miles dedicated exclusively to mountain biking. Rhodes Valley Outfitters offers hunting and equestrian activities, while The DeJoria Center and State Road Tavern & Restaurant offer fine food and spectacular entertainment. Only 15 minutes from world-class skiing and entertainment in Park City, Utah.
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This material is based upon information that we consider reliable, but because it has been supplied by third parties, we cannot represent that it is accurate or complete, including price, or withdrawal without notice; square footage is an estimate only. ©MMXIX Sotheby’s International Realty Affiliates, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Sotheby’s International Realty® is a licensed trademark to Sotheby’s International Realty Affiliates, Inc. An Equal Opportunity Company. Each Office Is Independently Owned And Operated. Copyright© Summit Sotheby’s International Realty 2019.
26
editor’s letter
The need to explore That’s me, in a little six-seater plane flying from Moab to the put-in for “Down the River with Everett Ruess and Friends”—the river trip down Desolation Canyon described in this issue’s story, “Nowhere Man.” (p. 66) Although thousands of people have traveled down the Green River since Maj. John Wesley Powell’s harrowing first journey in 1869, this was my first river trip—a personal exploration of new territory and new knowledge. After riding the river all day, we would gather together and share songs, readings and thoughts about Everett Ruess, the young artist-wanderer who disappeared into the Utah wilderness in 1934. There were lots of musings about why people explore and the relationship between humans and the land. Our Utah landscape is our most valuable treasure. There is nothing like it in the U.S., likely nothing like it in the world.
Countless people have devoted their lives to exploring it and understanding it but the more we know, the more questions there are. In this issue, we explore several aspects of Utah’s natural world—its canyons, its history and its science. One of the state’s most treasured resources is “the Greatest Snow on Earth.” We say that a lot and most of us have experienced why it’s so great—light, powdery, frequent. Yet we don’t understand what makes it so. Jen Hill looks into what causes our famous powder and then takes a peek into the future—with the climate changing so fast, how long will our snow last? (pp. 75) That concern is just a sliver of the bigger question: How long can Utah prosper if we don’t protect our greatest treasure?
Mary Brown Malouf
S A LT L A K E M A G A Z I N E . C O M | N O V / D E C 2 0 1 9
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hive PEOPLE | TRENDS | TALK
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30 32 34 36 38 40
Music Sublime Lift your spirit with seasonal music.
PHOTO ADAM FINKLE
N
ever mind the incessant carols playing in the mall. Music is the gift of the holiday season and listening attentively to grand versions of the ancient melodies played in suitable settings, gets you closer to the real spirit of the season. Cathedral of the Madeleine hosts seasonal music starting in November with the St. Cecilia’s Day Concert. utcotm.org
N O V / D E C 2 0 1 9 | S A LT L A K E M A G A Z I N E . C O M
30
the hive / DWELL
Modal’s “small but smart” ADU units provide homeowners with a way to add living space to their property.
A new home in your own back yard HIGH DENSITY can be a solution or a problem
Y
ou have a relative or friend who is on the verge of homelessness or needs a place to stay. You never considered becoming a landlord. But Salt Lake City has a serious housing shortage, especially severe for low-income people—those who earn low wages or live on Social Security for example. As a solution, this year Salt Lake City officials are opening up another option for homeowners, allowing them to create backyard spaces, rentable mother-in-law units, officially known as accessory dwelling units or ADUs. While this won’t fix the affordable housing issue, allowing homeowners to offer additional renting spaces, such as ADUs, seems like a good option. Of course, there are many strings and
S A LT L A K E M A G A Z I N E . C O M | N O V / D E C 2 0 1 9
zoning restrictions attached. There is still a lot of NIMBY attitude towards extra dwellings—concerns about parking, trash removal and other not-so-nice neighbor issues. ADUs could also reflect well or badly on your home’s property value. And ADUs can be expensive to build. As an option, locally made Modal builds “small but smart” ADU units which provide a cost-effective way for homeowners to add living space to their property. More efficient than traditional construction, the 432 sq ft. units are built off-site, then installed on-property. Modal arranges for all building permits and utility connections and includes built-in furniture. The average units cost around $120,000 and once installed, the owner can rent or use them how they wish. For more information visit livemodal.com.
For more info: The Salt Lake City Planning Division has designed a handbook for property owners who are interested in building an Accessory Dwelling Unit (ADU) on a lot that has an existing single-family home. This guide provides you with general information including: eligibility, ADU configurations, application process, commonly used terms, frequently asked questions and resources. slc.gov/planning/2019/03/04/aduhandbook-is-now-available/
PHOTOS: (TOP) ADAM FINKLE, (BELOW) COURTESY OF MODAL
BY JEN HILL
32
the hive / BEAUTY
Say “decollete.” And keep your CHIN UP BY JEN HILL
S A LT L A K E M A G A Z I N E . C O M | N O V / D E C 2 0 1 9
PHOTO ADAM FINKLE
W
e’re all beautiful on the inside, but, to be blunt—aging on the outside is a different story. Like the late Nora Ephron, I Feel Bad About My Neck, in her words, “You have to cut open a redwood tree to see how old it is, but you wouldn’t if it had a neck.” So what about your neck, jowls and jawline and your chest area below it—referred to as the decollete? Until quite recently there weren’t many options, and those options carried a lot of risks, including big bucks, downtime and uncertain results. You do have options besides turtlenecks and scarves. FDA-approved technology at the Form Med Spa makes remarkable claims for a procedure called Profound—the doctor uses a needle-type device that emits a radio frequency to a specified depth and temperature. The high energy causes a controlled deep tissue injury, which in turn stimulates the body’s response to create new collagen, elastin tissue and boost hyaluronic acid levels. You know, the stuff that makes your skin look firmer, more supple and yes, lift that saggy turkey neck. The treatment itself is intense, and you need to trust your medical professional. I went to Dr. Daniel Ward, who has a background in plastic surgery and years of experience, training and several favorable reviews. Here’s what you can expect from this procedure: Many needle pokes—but don’t worry—they’ll numb you completely. The staff stays with you to support and hold your hand because it’s scary when someone goes at your skin like this. After the procedure, and I can’t downplay this, there will be significant swelling and bruising for the first 5-7 days. The big lift isn’t visible at first either, but be assured your gain is coming, it just takes time.
Roberto Coin 18K gold and diamond frame Obelisco link collar ($29,000) O.C. Tanner Jewelers, SLC
TOP PICKS TO PROMOTE A BEAUTIFUL NECKLINE
NEOCUTIS—MICRO FIRM NECK & DÉCOLLETÉ REJUVENATING COMPLEX ($135) Available at: SLC MED SPA, 2138 Highland Dr., SLC, 801-419-0551
NECTIFIRM—ADVANCED NECK FIRMING CREAM ($133) Available at: Apothica, 171 S Rio Grande St, SLC, 801-746-7444
FORMRX—CURING NECTAR ($219) Available at: FORM MED SPA, 6322 S. 3000 East, Cottonwood Heights, 801-513-3223
34
the hive / JOKE
Can You Learn To Be Funny? And if so, GET A LAUGH.
I
BY JEN HILL
t’s party season. And we all want to seem informed, clever and mainly, witty, especially at parties. We’ve all had what we thought was a punch line fall flat. Maybe it was the wrong audience. Or maybe it was the way you told the story. So we thought we’d investigate: Can you learn to be funny? We posed the question to local comedian Andy Farnsworth. We’ve heard Andy’s act. We know he’s funny. And we figured stand-up is a lot like conversation. WHY IS ANDY DRESSED LIKE A HOUSE PAINTER? Well. He is one. No joke. Andy’s paints houses for his day job, a gig he says affords him lots of time to think on new material, which accounts for all the house-painting jokes in his set.
“You can’t know what’s funny until you get up there,” he says. But there are some surefire ways to kill a joke: 1. TOO LONG
Getting super-specific can be tedious and boring. Find the sweet spot. While you don’t need to keep an eye on your watch, keep aware of your audience and take note of their nonverbal responses (a yawn, checking a cell phone) and wrap it up quick. 2. CROSSING LINES
Know your audience enough that you’re in touch or aware of the moral boundary or line they have set. An angry reaction isn’t the goal. How do you know? Nonverbals, people walking out, unfriending you, throwing things at you... 3. NO RE-DOS
Once you’ve launched the “joke-telling” ship, go big or go home. There is no “time out fellas” or go-backs. If you can’t keep it flowing, crash and burn, and try to laugh it off. Joke telling takes practice and if at first, you don’t succeed...try again. Finish with confidence. You can smile while saying it, but try not to laugh. Keep eye contact and be audible. And for gosh sakes, don’t mumble. If your voice cracks, well, that’s funny.
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PHOTO ADAM FINKLE
4. THE PUNCHLINE
Perfect pairing. Make your holiday get-togethers a special celebration. Enjoy endless dining choices paired beautifully with world-class recreation all ideally situated in the mountains just 45 minutes from Salt Lake City.
ParkCityRestaurants.com
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the hive / KITCHENWARE
KNIFE TIPS • Don’t put it in the dishwasher. • Wash and dry it quickly by hand. • Have it sharpened professionally. (Most high-end knives include lifetime sharpening service.) • Keep the blade covered with a leather sheath or in a knife block. • Don’t use your knife for anything but cutting.
• Henckels Pro S Chef Knife • Wusthof Classic Ikon Santoku • Messermeister Meridian Elite Stealth Chef Knife • Global Santoku (G-48) • Shun Classic Chef Knife
It’s SHARP and it’s art. BY MARY BROWN MALOUF
C
hefs travel with their knives rolled up in a special knife roll with pockets for their blades, large and small, maybe their filleting knife, a long slicing knife and a sharpening steel to take the tiny burrs off the edges. Home chefs usually rely on fewer special blades but nothing in any kitchen can replace a really good knife. So what’s that? Corey Milligan, owner and founder of the newly opened New West KnifeWorks in Park City, has lots of opinions about what makes a good knife. “The toughness and the hardness of the steel are what’s important,” he says. Milligan believes he
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has come up with the “highest-performance kitchen knife in the world today.” (Don’t get him talking about steel, if you don’t have all day.) While he admits there are other great knives out there, there are few as beautiful. The G-Fusion handles of many of Milligan’s knives are made of bomb-proof aerospace-grade, fiberglass epoxy composite. That’s great. But each layer is a different color and when polished, reveals a rainbow of color. “Your tools should be beautiful,” according to Milligan. New West KnifeWorks, 675 S. Main St., Park City, 435-649-7219, newwestknifeworks.com
PHOTO LINDLEY RUST / COURTESY OF NEW WEST KNIFEWORKS
More Great (but not as beautiful) Knives
A Cut Above
• Be careful.
The Colony
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Virage Park City 6 BD / 9 BA / 12,303 SF Offered at $14,000,000
Old Town Park City
Daimon Bushi 435.200.4959
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Tom Ward 435.647.3727
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5 BD / 6 BA / 5,594 SF Offered at $2,800,000
Kari Koyle Patty Horie 801.450.0888 435.640.0400
1410 E South Temple 5 BD / 4 BA / 4,176 SF Offered at $1,390,000
Taylor Lake 801.558.0714
4 BD / 3 BA / 3,259 SF Offered at $1,200,000
1803 Yale Ave 3 BD / 4 BA / 3,066 SF Offered at $1,290,000
Lisa Dimond 801.514.3995
Peter and Sandra Clark 801.390.9865
Holladay
St. Mary’s
2341 Beacon Drive
7 BD / 8 BA / 7,861 SF Offered at $2,195,000
Vanessa Wand 801.824.2132
2186 Glen Haven Lane 4 BD / 3 BA / 6,453 SF Offered at $1,150,000
see all of our listings online at winutah.com Buyer to verfiy all info.
Bob Sandt 435.731.1050
Jim Bringhurst 801.558.6336
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the hive / BETWEEN THE BUN
Bocata Porchetta Sandwich Slow Food FAST
HOUSE-BAKED BREAD
ROASTED PEPPERS
BY MARY BROWN MALOUF
S A LT L A K E M A G A Z I N E . C O M | N O V / D E C 2 0 1 9
soning pork for their version of porchetta: a pork shoulder rubbed with toasted fennel seeds, coriander seeds, white pepper and sea salt, roasted with carrots, celery, chopped fennel and garlic. Sliced thin and served with a salsa verde made of garlic, Italian parsley, capers and anchovy—you end up with a sandwich that is definitely not fast food. “We call it slow food, fast,” says Brooks. Bocata, City Creek, 28 State St., SLC, 801-355-3538
SALSA VERDE ITALIAN ROASTED PORK
PHOTO ADAM FINKLE
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t’s early in the morning; stores in City Creek mall aren’t even open yet. The food court, usually a noisy bustling maelstrom of shoppers and kids, is silent. Most of the restaurants don’t open until 10 when employees show up, roll up the doors and start heating up the food. But over in Bocata, a unique restaurant in Salt Lake City (there are no other locations), cooks are at work, baking bread, roasting chicken and lamb, and sea-
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the hive / GOOD LIVING
The Finer Things TIMELESS PLEASURES don’t need improving. BY MARY BROWN MALOUF
Much modern luxury is defined by tech. Your watch, your
Clockwise from top: Sugar House Distillery Boilermaker Bourbon Whiskey ($65) Sugar House Distillery, SLC; Works of Charles Dickens ($32) Lanny Barnard Gallery / The Chalk Garden, SLC; Musical Antique Bar Car ($198) Lanny Barnard Gallery / The Chalk Garden, SLC; 4th Generation Pipe ($440) and Tamper ($23) Beehive Cigars, SLC; Yarai Rocks Glass ($9) Curriculum, SLC; American Whiskey Bourbon and Rye ($25), The Savoy Cocktail Book ($25), Ultimate Bar Book, The Comprehensive Guide ($20) Tabula Rasa, SLC S A LT L A K E M A G A Z I N E . C O M | N O V / D E C 2 0 1 9
PHOTO ADAM FINKLE
car or bicycle, your skis—when they’re top of the line it’s because of technology. But some classic indulgences have remained the same for centuries. Fine books, great whiskey and the accoutrements for drinking it, an elegantly handcrafted pipe and perfectly cured tobacco all contribute to enhance your enjoyment of the greatest luxury of all: leisure time.
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2 0 1 9 H O L I D AY
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2. SHARPEWERKS Handmade jewelry designed for everyday, while 14K gold and gemstones elevate the pieces for more formal wear. The juxtaposition of concrete with these precious materials challenges one to question their traditional ideas about the medium. Available online or by appointment. Salt Lake City 401-338-7570 | sharpewerks.com
3. STIO Cold weather doesn't discriminate between town and country, and neither does Stio's best-selling Hometown Down Hooded Jacket. Pick one up at the Park City Mountain Studio located on Historic Main Street for $299. 556 Main Street, Park City 435-214-7364 | stio.com
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4. RED BUTTE GARDEN GIFT SHOP Botanically-inspired gifts including fine jewelry, wind chimes, books, home decor, and more. This holiday season make a resolution to treat yourself to the healing powers of forest medicine. 300 Wakara Way, Salt Lake City 801-575-0556 | redbuttegarden.org
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2 0 1 9 H O L I D AY
5. THE CHILDREN'S HOUR Old MacDonald had a farm and so can your family! We love this amazing Barn filled with handmade horses and other farm animals from Tibet. GUARANTEED to provide hours of creative play! 898 South 900 East, Salt Lake City 801-359-4150 | childrenshourbookstore.com
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6. LEVEL NINE SPORTS Level Nine Sports is a leading online and local retailer of ski and bike gear determined to make skiing and biking accessible to everyone. We Focus on the Price. You Focus on the Fun.
7. NEW WEST KNIFE WORKS AND MTN MAN TOY SHOP Knife art for the kitchen and field. Rocky Mountain made with a lifetime guarantee. "The Ultra-Giftable Knife ... performs with power and grace whatever the task." - Bon Appetit Magazine
Downtown - 625 S 600 W, Salt Lake City Millcreek - 2927 E 3300 S, Salt Lake City Ogden - 1273 Canyon Rd, Ogden Orem - 644 State St, Orem 877-589-7547 | levelninesports.com
675 Main Street, Park City 435-649-7219 | newwestknifeworks.com
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8. EVERY BLOOMING THING Fun to give, fun to get! 1344 South 2100 East, Salt Lake City 801-521-4773 | everybloomingthing.com
SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION
2 0 1 9 H O L I D AY
9. MINKY COUTURE Minky Couture, founded in Utah, designs and manufactures LUXURY blankets for the entire family. Visit one of our five Utah locations or shop online today! 138 E 12300 S, Draper 128 S State St, Orem 920 Chambers St. #17, Ogden 1782 Woodland Park Dr., Layton 720 S River Road Ste A105, St. George 801-682-8422 | minkycouture.com
minky couture shop shop online and in-stores
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11. RUBYSNAP RubySnap is an exeptional cookie bakery famous for using fresh ingredients in innovative flavor combinations. Available for delivery, shipping and custom client gifting. Let RubySnap make you look good!
Glass House a happy modern design/gallery and gift store with unique items, sourced locally and from around the globe to delight your senses. 3910 S Highland Drive, Millcreek 801-274-2720 | glasshouseslc.com
770 S 300 W, Salt Lake City 801-834-6111 | shop.rubysnap.com
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801-648-8422 · www.minkycouture.com 12. LES MADELEINES A taste of Italy made here locally using traditional methods. Panettone is available throughout December and makes a delicious gift for loved ones or clients. Mini $6, Regular $26 216 E 500 S, Salt Lake City 801-355-2294 | lesmadeleines.com
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state watch
Lost Lake City? Salt Lake City is growing. Is it destroying itself at the same time? BY MARY BROWN MALOUF AND JEREMY PUGH
On any given Saturday, you can walk into Ken Sanders Rare Bookstore and find its owner, bibliophile and polymath Ken Sanders, holding court. Sanders, as much as his shop, is a source of information, referring to random bits of Utah history and counterculture lore. This is Salt Lake’s Living Room. And we’re about to say good-bye to it. The bulldozers are stirring. Like so many memorable, even iconic, places in Salt Lake City Ken Sanders Rare Books and the block anchored by the Green Ant furniture store will be razed by a developer, in this case, Ivory Homes. In its place? Yet another “multi-use” mid-rise building. “There is tremendous pressure for businesses downtown to produce more dollars per square foot,” says Downtown Alliance Director Dee Brewer. “Residential rates, office rates—they’re all skyrocketing and small businesses are moved out of the way.” In this year’s 2019 State of Downtown event, Jerry and Kestrel Liedtke, owners of The Tin Angel, were presented with a Downtown Achievement Award for their bold move in 2007 to open their restaurant in the blighted area across from Pioneer Park. They created a second location in the Eccles Theater last summer. But in September, disputes with a landlord who, according to Kestrel, has plans to develop the property, led to the Liedtke’s leaving the original award-garnering site.
Is Salt Lake City ‘Great?’ In 2016, urban planner Alex Garvin wrote a book titled What Makes a Great City; in it, he lists the essentials—and
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Kestrel and Jerry Liedtke in front of the new Tin Angel at the Eccles.
47 Salt Lake City fails to measure up to most of them. According to Garvin, a great city should be open to anyone. Yet Salt Lake City’s core has always been Temple Square, a “public space” that’s walled all around, centered by a building whose doors are closed to most and with strict rules about what you can wear and how you’re supposed to behave. Temple Square includes a chunk what used to be a public Main Street, excising what was a vital block in downtown from the rest. In 2003, a new Salt Lake City Library was opened and in a sense, the building has become the secular center of the city, where many of the city’s multi-cultural celebrations and discussions take place. And between those two anchors, the rest of the city, the business district, is where money and culture are clashing. “There is a tension between these three parts of downtown,” says Brewer. Developers, he says, haven’t demonstrated understanding of how essential character is to a city. The old, the unique, the quirky actually add value to property, attracts leaseholders and population.
Lost Among Giants Amid the two countervailing poles of Temple Square and The Library, tucked into the crevices between the banks and big businesses,
the little places that grew up as stubborn, cheeky and rebellious counterpoints to a homogeneous culture, are struggling to stay afloat. But although new buildings are required to have a streetside presence, it’s hard for a municipality, to always affect what developers do with their property, Brewer says. “It has to be the ethos of the property owners. They have to see the net potential, that if they preserve interest and charm it will be an economic win for them.” Sanders is less-than sanguine about it all. A lover of old things, and a keeper of weird Utah lore, Sanders, built his second-hand and rare book shop out of the remains of Cosmic Aeroplane, a head shop that was more than just bongs. It was a counter-cultural gathering space. Now after 23 years at his own shop, he feels fortunate to have had such a long run but still a sense of inequality rankles. “We gave Amazon a $5.6 million tax break to build a warehouse,” Sanders says. “Gov. Herbert, where’s my $5,600 dollars?” True, Sanders’ fiscal contribution to the local economy is minimal but his cranky place on 300 East and 300 South is an anchor for local authors, poets, and musicians. He works to shine a spotlight on literary figures from Utah’s past like Wallace Stegner, Edward Abbey and Everett Ruess and he works to find and uncover a different story of Utah than we hear on Pioneer Day. Isn’t that worth something?
Sugar House Lost In 2008, the Granite Block on the corner of 1100 East and 2100 South, home to a row of cool shops and Sugar House Coffee, was demolished but the Great Recession stalled a new project. The resulting ‘Sugar Hole,’ a fenced off demolition site, gaped like an open wound and became a symbol of hasty development decisions. Shovels started turning again and the resulting mixed-use project was completed in 2013. But the new retail and food spaces are largely chains. Gone are the quirky lowrent consignment stores, the cheeky Blue Boutique (which moved east near Sugar House Park), and the unique sense of place that—ironically—had made the area desirable.
PHOTOS ADAM FINKLE
LEFT: Ken Sanders Rare Book Store. BELOW: Sugar House in the days before the ‘Sugar-Hole.’
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TRAVEL | OUTDOORS
Worth a Trip . . . . . . . . . 50 Sport . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54
PHOTO TORY TAGLIOD, VISIT SUN VALLEY
Tory_Taglio_ketchum streets
Ketchum, Idaho
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Ketchum If You Can A Weekend in SUN VALLEY.
PHOTO KAT CANNELL, VISIT SUN VALLEY
BY TONY GILL
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I could vaguely make out the center line as I headed north on U.S. 93. The oxidized headlights I’d been neglecting struggled to illuminate much beyond the snow falling directly in front of my windshield, but the perilous weather provided ample motivation to make it to Ketchum, Idaho. Sure, I could have avoided the five-hour ordeal with a 50-minute Delta flight from Salt Lake City to the Friedman Memorial Airport in Hailey, but there’s something about a white-knuckle drive through a blizzard that gets the juices flowing for a powder day at Sun Valley.
WHY, EXACTLY, DRIVE NORTH IN A SNOWSTORM? Utah’s rarely wanting for snow, so it takes more than some heavy flurries to get me out on the road. But Sun Valley, home of the world’s first chairlift, is quite literally the birthplace of American resort skiing. The area has a pioneering mountainsport legacy, and now it’s more convenient and affordable than ever for Utah skiers to experience. Epic Pass holders have seven days of skiing at Sun Valley included with their 2019-2020 season pass, allowing them to venture north without buying a day ticket. Other passholders or those seeking a little
Mt. Baldy’s defining trait is its consistent gradient over 3,400 vertical feet.
variety can spring for the new $399 Sun and Snow Pass, which provides three days of skiing at Sun Valley as well as three days of skiing at their sister resort in Utah, Snowbasin.
BACK TO THE TRIP
I found refuge in the climate-controlled parking garage of the Limelight Hotel in Ketchum. The hotel’s eccentricities—my room had a View-Master stereoscope (think steampunk Instagram)—and contemporary art collection may not match Sun Valley’s sepia-toned aesthetic, but it’s a wonderfully comfortable place to spend the night. In the lounge I grabbed a cocktail and some Idaho Truffle Fries while watching live, local music—featured at Limelight every Friday through Sunday night—before turning in. Limelight Hotel: 151 Main St. S, Ketchum, ID, 208-726-0888, limelighthotels.com
Sun Valley: winter sports under a summer sun.
The Limelight Hotel
HIT THE SLOPES
I was up early to grab a quick breakfast downstairs before heading to River Run Plaza at the base of Sun Valley’s Baldy. For all their virtues, resorts in the Wasatch Mountains tend to have benches breaking up the fall line. Baldy’s defining trait is its consistent gradient over 3,400 vertical feet. I headed straight up to the top of Christmas Lift for untouched turns down Christmas Bowl and Rock Garden before heading out Lookout Lift towards Easter Bowl. When it was time for a break, I let gravity take hold down Limelight towards the Warm Springs base area. The Warm Springs day lodge is a perfectly serviceable—luxurious even—ski lodge with excellent food. That said, I’d recommend walking right past it and going to Irving’s Red Hots. The quirky red shack on Picabo St. is anathema to
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Zenergy pool
Sun Valley: 1 Sun Valley Rd., Sun Valley, 800-786-8259, sunvalley.com Irving’s Red Hots: 204 Picabo St., Ketchum, 208-720-1664
R&R
After a couple more leg-burning laps off Challenger Lift, I was ready for some rejuvenation. I headed to Zenergy Health Club and Spa. For $25, Limelight guests can get a day pass to Zenergy, which includes a gym, Pilates and yoga studios, personal trainers, spin classes, comprehensive spa treatments and more. All I wanted was a soak in the hot tub for my sore muscles and a relaxing stint in the Himalayan salt sauna and eucalyptus steam room. Ready for some more traditional après, I headed to The Ram Bar at Sun Valley Village for a beer and a smoked trout plate. The Ram is steeped in a bit of history itself. One of the walls was adorned with traditional Austrian Doppelmayr
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Cowbells to commemorate each of Sun Valley’s lifts, and though I saw little dancing, the Hokey Pokey is said to have originated there. Fine dining abounds throughout Sun Valley and Ketchum, but I eschewed hyperbolic Yelp reviews in favor of ordering prime rib from the bar at Main Street’s famed Pioneer Saloon. You probably should too. Zenergy: 245 Raven Rd., Ketchum, 208-725-0595, zenergysv.com The Ram: 1 Sun Valley Rd., Sun Valley, 208-622-2266 Pioneer Saloon: 320 N. Main St., Ketchum, 208-726-3139, pioneersaloon.com
EXIT STRATEGY
I grabbed a couple European-style pastries and a cup of locally-roasted coffee from Konditorei Restaurant before heading back over to Baldy. I was greeted by sunshine and immaculate corduroy at the top of Challenger Lift and proceeded to run a few seemingly-endless, two-mile laps down Warm Springs. From there, it was time to steer the car back towards reality. But I’d only scratched the surface, and it is safe to say I’ll be back. Konditorei: 1 Sun Valley Rd., Sun Valley, 208-622-2235
A Brief Historical Aside At its inception, Sun Valley was a ploy to get people to buy train tickets. Union Pacific Railroad Chairman W. Averell Harriman wanted to increase ridership on passenger trains in the West by capitalizing on the winter sports boom following the 1932 Winter Olympics, so he enlisted Austrian Sportsman Count Felix Von Schaffgotsch to help him find a location for a mountain resort similar to St. Moritz in the Swiss Alps. Central Idaho, with its ample snowfall and generous sunshine, was christened the place to enjoy “winter sports under a summer sun.” In the fall of 1936, U.P. engineers designed and installed the world’s first chairlifts on Dollar and Proctor Mountains, and Sun Valley, the first ski resort in the U.S., was off and running. Walls of the lodge are lined with photographs of celebrities—Bruce Willis owns property nearby. The best are those from the 30s and 40s, with Hollywood stars bundled up in wool sweaters on those long old skis.
ZENERGY PHOTO STEVE DONDERO
profiteering ski resort developers. Less than five bucks gets you an authentic Chicago-style kraut dog and a bag of chips, and there’s a bucket of Double Bubble to help get the poppy seeds out of your teeth. Multiple ski patrollers strolling up to get lunch while in their boots reinforce the establishment’s local credibility.
Say hello to your brand new, bigger, better Salt Lake City International Airport (SLC), arriving in 2020. The New SLC will replace the three existing terminals with one large, modern terminal that has the capacity to meet the ever-growing demands of a major air transportation hub. To learn more, visit SLCairport.com
sport
PHOTO ADAM FINKLE
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Don’t Call It Ping Pong Get Serious about TABLE TENNIS at SLCTT. BY TONY GILL
“I thought I was reasonably good, but then I was completely overpowered by a 12-year old,” said Adam Davis. “The game’s all about speed, agility, touch and the mental aspect, not strength. That’s why it can be appealing to such a wide variety of people.” Davis is the owner of Salt Lake City Table Tennis (SLCTT), a 4,000 square-foot, 24-hour facility on the west side of the city devoted to the sport where an opponent of diminutive stature can easily humble you. Inside SLCTT are six professional-level Butterfly Centrefold 25 tables that run about $2,500 each. As someone who spent a significant portion of his childhood locked in hypercompetitive, basement ping pong clashes against my brother wherein the most important things to know were which table irregularities would work in your favor and which angles could turn the adjacent wall into your ally, I was in heaven. Whether you’re looking to take a Forrest Gumpstyle leap in your game or are simply looking for a new outlet and a little fun, SLCTT is the place.
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sport
Membership at SLCC is only $40 a month. For $1.30 a day, you get round-the-clock keycard access to the club to play any time their schedule allows. Day passes are $10 per person, and drop-ins are encouraged. Even if nobody’s around, you can give Davis a call at 801-886-1415 and he’ll open the door remotely for you so you can play. Just fill out a liability waiver, drop your payment in an envelope and get paddling. Table Tennis has been an Olympic sport since 1988, so it’s fair to say some people take it pretty seriously. If you’re on that end of the spectrum, you can take lessons from former professionals like ParaPanAmerican Games 5th place finisher Valentin Letelier, Chinese National Team veteran Sun Beih and Ukrainian National Team veteran Ruslan Riabokoniev. SLCTT’s weekly Wednesday night round robins help match people up with fun, competitive matches to test your progress against the club ranking system. Don’t be intimidated by visions of cutthroat competition, however. Davis reminded me the club’s main goal is to help people find enjoyment by chasing down and hitting a little plastic ball. “Above all else, people just have fun here,” Davis said. “We’re such a friendly club, and everyone’s here to get a little exercise, learn a little bit and have a good time, regardless of their level.”
EVERYONE’S HERE TO GET A LITTLE EXERCISE, LEARN A LITTLE BIT AND HAVE A GOOD TIME, REGARDLESS OF THEIR LEVEL.” –ADAM DAVIS
DON’T SKIMP ON THE PADDLE. A paddle is all you really need to get started in your table tennis career, so it’s worth splurging just a little. Davis recommends spending Between $30 and $60 on a pre-assembled paddle from a reputable brand like Butterfly. “The main thing is to get a paddle where the rubber actually has some grip to it,” Davis said. “At the big box stores, you’ll spend $30 for garbage.” Davis can order product through the club to get gear at a discount.
PHOTO ADAM FINKLE
3572 S. 1950 West, Salt Lake City, 801-886-1415, tabletenniseventcenter.com
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park city LIFE ON THE OTHER SIDE
PHOTO ADAM FINKLE
MIX TIPS . . . . . . . . . . . 60 LIFE OF PIE . . . . . . . . . 62 WOODWARD . . . . . . . . 64
THE COCKTAIL KING OF PARK CITY BY TONY GILL
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revor Brown doesn’t make the best drink in Park City. He makes the two best drinks in Park City. Brown emerged victorious in the Park City Area Restaurant Association’s (PCARA) annual cocktail contest for the second consecutive time over the summer with La Vaquera, a concoction of local High West Double Rye
Whiskey, sherry, house-made hibiscus grenadine, lemon juice and habanero lime bitters. He also concocted 2018’s winning drink, Cherry in the Rye, mixed rye whiskey with a house-made cherry port reduction. To sample Brown’s creative libations for yourself, stop in at Tupelo on Main Street where he’s been mixing the finest drinks in town for more than two years.
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park city
THREE CLASSIC DRINKS IT’S TIME TO STOP MESSING UP To mix like a pro, start by mastering these three standards. MARGARITA “The beloved cocktail that’s often brutalized.” • 2 parts tequila • 1 part orange liqueur • 1 part lime juice • ½ part agave nectar
Mix Like A Pro BARTENDING TIPS from Park City’s Top Mixologist BY TONY GILL
You needn’t be an awardwinning resort-town mixologist like Tupelo’s Trevor Brown to mix a decent drink. The back-to-back PCARA Cocktail Contest winner took a moment to share a few tips on crafting the kind of elegantly classic cocktails that will keep your next shindig from having the aesthetic of luau night in a frat house basement. Among other pearls of wisdom, Brown said, “It’s very easy to add too much sugar to a cocktail, so err on the side of a touch too bitter or citrusy and add more as preferred,” and, “Practice makes perfect.” There’s your excuse for the extra cocktail next Tuesday night. Tupelo: 508 Main St., 435-615-7700, tupeloparkcity.com
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BROWN’S BARROOM ESSENTIALS
ALWAYS HAVE THESE ON TAP BASE SPIRITS • Rye Whiskey: “It blends better in cocktails and adds a little more depth with a spicy character.” • Vodka: “You’ll need it for light, easy summer drinks.” • Tequila: “A margarita never hurts.” • Gin: “A good, dry gin makes a big difference.”
• Rum: “Start with a good Jamaican rum if you want to get a little crazy.”
FLAVORING • Orange liqueur of any preference • Campari • Grenadine • Sweet vermouth • Sugar cubes • An orange & a lime •A ngostura bitters
“A margarita needs a salted rim, so do that first. Shake the margarita in a tin shaker for 15 seconds, then pour it over rocks in the salted glass and enjoy.” MANHATTAN “It’s a straightforward cocktail, but one that’s easily messed up.” • 2 parts rye whiskey • 1 part vermouth • Dash of angostura bitters “Put it in a mixing glass with just enough ice that the liquid covers it. Stir it up for a nice dilution to take the alcohol harshness out of it. Serve it up or on the rocks depending on preference with a lemon twist or cherry.” NEGRONI “A cocktail drinker’s cocktail that’s boozy and bitter but goes down easy.” • 1 part gin • 1 part Campari • 1 part sweet vermouth “Stir in a mixing glass with ice for 10 seconds. Serve it in a rocks glass with a single large rock, if possible, and a twist of orange.”
PHOTO ADAM FINKLE
What these classic drinks should look like.
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park city
Life of Pie In Search of Park City’s BEST PIZZA BY TONY GILL
Pizza is the greatest food ever devised by humankind. It’s a perfect ski-town delicacy, versatile, flexible and equally at home served as the centerpiece of an après-ski feast as it is when scarfed down cold as a part of a balanced powder-day breakfast. A quick Google query returned more than 20 results for Pizza in Park City. Where is one to start? I utilized the methods of serious investigative journalism, visited numerous pizzerias, consumed thousands of calories of cheese and consulted with a coterie of highly unqualified individuals to help categorize the best slices in Park City. You’re welcome. THE CONTENDERS: Maxwell’s East Coast Eatery, Este Pizza, Fuego Pizzeria and Davanza’s Requirements for inclusion in this assessment were as follows: 1.) Makes delightful pizza 2.) Not a national chain 3.) Suitable for carryout 4.) I was able to find the time to eat there during this investigation.
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A pie from Maxwell’s
MAXWELL’S
DAVANZA’S
ESTE
FUEGO
CRUST
TOPPINGS
CHEESE
HIGHLIGHT
AMBIENCE
Admirably chewy, but ask for extra crispy if you prefer more support.
Loaded like a VW Beetle during a cross-country move
May have stumbled across a leftover truckload of ricotta
The “Eddie Would Go” has sublime Italian sausage.
Suitable for being emotionally volatile while watching sports
No folding required here
Balanced like Simone Biles during a floor routine
Anything beyond mozzarella is heretical.
Heaps of red onion and cilantro make the “BBQ Chicken” sing.
Bonus points for being ski in, ski out
Perfection even a persnickety Mets fan could love
Laid on thicker than a bad Boston accent in an Affleck movie
Picked up one of those ricotta cases that fell off the back of the truck
The “New Jersey Combo” is authentic: everything you need and nothing you don’t.
Outdoor seating is prime in the warmer months.
Old-world, woodfired dough
Top-shelf, antipasto-quality stuff
Like a skilled carpenter, knows the right tool for the job
The “Wasatch” perfectly marries pancetta, garlic and pineapple.
It’ll inspire you to order a Peroni with that pizza.
park city
Where the action is Good-bye Gorgoza, Hello WOODWARD BY MARY BROWN MALOUF
Gorgoza was such a simple premise—a rope tow took you up the hill. You slid down the hill. Wheeee! Too cold? Get some hot chocolate in the yurt. But simplicity seldom survives long and Gorgoza is gone. You will still be able to slide down the hill this winter, but the replacement amusement park, Woodward Park City, will offer lots more. Woodward promises to be the first all-in-one sports and ski resort in the country. The company started out 40 years ago as a summer camp—now there are locations in Pennsylvania, California, Colorado, even Cancun. Each camp is a little different and Woodward Park City is unique to Utah—it’s open all seasons, offers all sports (well, most of them), for all ages, indoor, outdoor and it’s open every day. It’s a big promise and a giant leap from the rope-tow and inner tubes of its
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predecessor, but Woodward lives up to its hype. Ten different sports and games are offered at the new resort, each one designed to teach players to excel and get to the next level of expertise: snowboarding, skiing, tubing, mountain biking, skateboarding, BMX, scooter, parkour, cheer and digital media (which is now a sport?). In the summer, biking and skating will replace the snow stuff. Digital and cheer, of course, have no season. Whatever, the point seems to be to learn to have fun so … wheeee! Monthly memberships are available now for the introductory rate of $100/month, where you can purchase all-access passes, day sessions, lift tickets, drop-in sessions, day camps, lessons, monthly memberships, and special events. Go to woodwardparkcity.com for more info.
Base Elevation:
6,460 FEET Top Elevation:
6,811 FEET Skiable Area:
61 ACRES Number of Lifts:
4
(1 QUAD, 3 SURFACE LIFTS)
Terrain Parks:
4
PHOTO COURTESY OF WOODWARD PARK CITY
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utahbrideandgroom.com
ON NEWSSTANDS NOW
Everett Ruess disappeared into the Utah wilderness in 1934. In a sense, we’re still searching for him. by Mary Brown Malouf
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PHOTO: SPECIAL COLLECTIONS, J. WILLARD MARRIOTT LIBRARY, THE UNIVERSITY OF UTAH
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PHOTO CREDIT TK
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nother day of sunshine and rain, rapids and rolling on the muddy Green River is behind us. We sit in a circle on a beach in Desolation Canyon with guitars and glasses of whiskey and wine, playing the songs we know. Emanuel “Manu” Tellier strums and sings, “He’s a real nowhere man, knows not where he’s going to, isn’t he a bit like you and me?” “A bit like Everett Ruess, no?” Manu says to no one. A bit like Everett Ruess, yes. Ruess, a young artist/wanderer who disappeared into the southern Utah desert wilderness 85 years ago still haunts the imagination of writers, filmmakers, artists and wanderers young and old. Last August, Ken Sanders, owner of Ken Sanders Rare Books, and French journalist/musician/filmmaker Emmanuel Tellier organized a raft trip down the Green River—“Down the River with Everett Ruess and Friends” to celebrate the Escalante premiere of Tellier’s film, Le Disparition d’Everett Ruess and a screening at Moab Star Hall. Days and nights on the river were filled with references to Ruess, discussions of his work and
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readings of his poems, music composed and played by Tellier and violinist songwriter Kate McLeod, all inspired by Ruess’s enigmatic life, passion for the wilderness and mysterious disappearance in 1934. Utah’s dean of letters, Wallace Stegner, wrote about Everett Ruess in his book Mormon Country— Stegner called Ruess, “a spiritual and artistic athlete who die[d] young.” He was “one of the few who died—if he died—with the dream intact.” Gonzo environmentalist Edward Abbey wrote “A Sonnet For Everett Ruess: “You knew the crazy lust to probe the heart of that which has no heart that we could know.” In Into the Wild, the book Jon Krakauer wrote about young Chris McCandless who abandoned civilization to discover himself in the wilderness, the author quotes from Ruess’s letters, saying they could have been written by McCandless: “The beauty of this country is becoming part of me. I feel more detached from life and somehow gentler. I have always been unsatisfied with life as most people live it. Always I want to live more intensely and richly.” The story of Everett Ruess has haunted the Western imagination for generations and it still does.
PHOTO: SPECIAL COLLECTIONS, J. WILLARD MARRIOTT LIBRARY, THE UNIVERSITY OF UTAH
Everett with his dog, Curly and fullypacked burro
69 THE FAMILY
Everett Ruess was born in Oakland, California on March 28, 1914, to Christopher Ruess, a Unitarian minister, and his artistic wife, Stella. He had an older brother, Waldo. The family moved often when Everett was young and ended up settling in Los Angeles. Ken Sanders, who advised Tellier on the new film, says, “Ruess was always a precocious artist, writing and drawing when he was a child—extremely observant, as you can tell from his letters.” Ruess corresponded with his family throughout his short life, describing his life and travels, exploring his thoughts and explaining the reasons for his way of life. He took his first road trip when he was 16, hitchhiking through Yosemite and the Sierras before returning to finish high school. Then he took off again. Except for a semester at UCLA, Ruess never attended college, but began wandering the West, travelling with burros and horses through the Sierras and the high deserts of the Colorado plateau in Arizona, New Mexico, Utah and Colorado. He searched out ancient Indian ruins and petroglyphs, learned to speak Navajo and took part in Hopi ceremonies. He worked intermittently on ranches and with archaeologists, he sold a few prints, but despite his expressed scorn for regular employment, he depended mostly on his parents for support.
and rancher Pat Jenks, who met Reuss along a road in 1931. The artist was worn-out, the burros were tired—Jenks loaded the whole sad caravan into his truck and Reuss stayed at his Deerwater Ranch for a month or so before taking to the road again. There are a number of encounters like this recorded in Reuss’s letters—chance meetings, brief employment and fleeting but memorable friendships that all ended with Reuss on the road again with his donkeys and his dog, Curly. Reuss never wrote a book, he wrote poems and he was a prolific letter-writer. Later, these were gathered and published by Peregrine Smith Books in a book called Everett Ruess: A Vagabond for Beauty.
“HAVE YOU SEEN MY SON?”
Everett Ruess left Escalante, Utah on November 12, 1934, headed for some of the least-explored, roughest landscapes in the country. As usual, his intention was to paint, explore ancient Indian cliff dwellings and continue his life of solitary self-discovery with his paints, his books and his two burros. He sent a final letter to his parents in Los Angeles explaining that he was headed into wilderness and that he would be unable to communicate for two months “…as to when I revisit civilization, it will not be soon. I have not tired of the wilderness…” He never came back. After three months with no word from Everett, his parents became alarmed and
Everett’s early attempts at clay sculpting— influenced by his artistic mother—no doubt.
PHOTO: SPECIAL COLLECTIONS, J. WILLARD MARRIOTT LIBRARY, THE UNIVERSITY OF UTAH
THE FRIENDS
For awhile in the early 1930s, Ruess lived in San Francisco, befriending artists like Ansel Adams, Maynard Dixon and his wife Dorothea Lange. In Big Sur, he met photographer Edward Weston. The older artists mentored him, encouraging him in his work and his wanderlust. In his wanderings he befriended Indians, sheepherders
AS TO WHEN I SHALL REVISIT CIVILIZATION, IT WILL NOT BE SOON... –EVERETT RUESS
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70 called on locals to search for their missing son. Scouts, Indians and other volunteers hunted through the canyons and mountains for days; they built signal fires and fired guns. A shepherd reported seeing Ruess on November 19, near the treacherous intersection of Escalante Creek and the Colorado River. Searchers found his two burros grazing peacefully in Davis Gulch, a canyon off the Escalante River. There was evidence of a campsite and it looked as though the camper had every intention of returning. Cut into a rock face they found the words “NEMO 1934”—nemo means “nobody” in Greek, the word Odysseus used to escape the Cyclops and the name of Jules Verne’s intrepid undersea captain in 20,000 Leagues Under the Sea, a favorite book of Everett’s. In 1957, some camping equipment, presumably some of Everett’s kit, was found stashed in a nearby cave. Stella doubted they were Everett’s and now the site—and NEMO—is drowned under Lake Powell. Everett’s mother Stella came to Utah several times to search for her son, even making the arduous trip to Davis Gulch. She tried to keep the search alive until she died in 1964.
THE REDISCOVERY
On his journey, Everett acquired many friends, and obviously was wellliked by dogs.
Fishing Shack Tomales Bay, Linoleum block image carved by Everett Ruess
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sweeping him downstream in the wild water? Did he marry a Navajo women and lose himself in Navajo country? Did he purposely disappear, leave behind his identity and live out his days anonymously in Mexico? No one knows. His trail ends in Davis Gulch, but his story endures. On Desert Trails with Everett Ruess, a collection of poems and letters, was published in 1940, but it was long out of print when Utah publisher Gibbs Smith ran across a copy. According to Catherine Smith, Gibbs’ widow who went with Sanders and Tellier “Down the River with Everett Ruess,” her late husband, along with river-runner Ken Sleight, who had been
telling Ruess’s legend around campfires for years, joined with writer W.L. Rusho to rediscover the story of Everett Ruess. “We became Everett sleuths,” she says. “We went to the Ruess family neighborhood and house in Los Angeles. We visited Mexico to meet Pat Jenks, the person with a truck who rescued a tired Everett in northern Arizona. We got to know Waldo, a member of the Explorers Club in New York, and held a Gibbs Smith sales meeting there. We visited with Ansel Adams about his trading a photograph for a Ruess block print, and checked out his time in San Francisco.” They went to meet Waldo and his grown children in Montecito, and
PHOTO: SPECIAL COLLECTIONS, J. WILLARD MARRIOTT LIBRARY, THE UNIVERSITY OF UTAH
In the end, no one knows what happened to Everett Ruess. Was he murdered by cattle rustlers? Did an attempt to cross the river fail,
71 SO HOW DID EVERETT RUESS END UP IN PARIS?
brought boxes full of the life of Everett to Kaysville, Utah.” We put up Ed Fraughton plaques for him in Davis Gulch near the NEMO, and at Dancehall Rock. I think these were quickly stolen. But one resides in Boulder at the Burr Trail Outpost and Grill.”
When noted cell biologist Mary Beckerle and her husband David Murrell took a sabbatical year in Paris for Beckerle to work at the Curie Institute, they happened to enroll their children in the same preschool that Emmanuel and Nathalie Tellier’s child attended. The couples became fast friends, often vacationing together. The Telliers visited Utah, staying in Beckerle and Murrell’s home in Torrey. Murrell, whose own youth was spent wandering, had long been fascinated with Ruess. Nathalie picked up a book about Ruess, read it and handed it to Manu, saying, “You could do something with this.” As Manu delved deeper, Murrell introduced him to Ken Sanders, whose store is a repository of Ruess lore and who has been fascinated by Ruess since he first read about him. Tellier produced a two-person musical play, an album of original music, How the Wild Calls to Me, inspired by Ruess and performed by Tellier’s band, 24 Swimming Pools. Finally, six years later, Tellier’s first film, Le Disparition d’Everett Ruess premiered, with music adapted from the original 24 Swimming Pools score for the play.
“Down the River with Everett Ruess” was an 80-mile raft trip down Desolation Canyon
PHOTO: SPECIAL COLLECTIONS, J. WILLARD MARRIOTT LIBRARY, THE UNIVERSITY OF UTAH
Friends of friends
LE DISPARITION D’ EVERETT RUESS
organized by Ken Sanders and produced by CRATE (Colorado River and Trail Expeditions). A group of 12 Ruess enthusiasts, including Catherine Gibbs, one of the original researchers, Utah filmmaker Trent Harris, documentary filmmaker Marcia Franklin, musician Kate McLeod, French journalist, musician and Reuss filmmaker Emanuel Tellier and his wife Nathalie and David Murrell and Mary Beckerle, who introduced Tellier to Ruess, plus others who simply have been fascinated by the legend of the long-gone
Hole-in-the-Rock, as seen from the air, looking south across the Colorado River and Glen Canyon. Searchers found Everett’s bootprints on the rim of Holein-the-Rock in March of 1935.
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Photos from “Down the River with Everett Ruess” in Desolation Canyon: From left: Russell Neilson, Mark Roginske; Kate McLeod, Ken Sanders; Marcia Ingram; Mary Malouf; Ken Sanders, Kate McLeod, Catherine Smith, Emmanuel Tellier.
FINDING EVERETT RUESS
More to read, view and hear Many films and books have been written about Ruess. Ken Sanders Rare Books is the place to find them, old and new. Tellier is returning to Utah in December for a reprise showing of
Le Disparition d’Everett Ruess. Look for details at saltlakemagazine.com or kensandersrarebooks.com.
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Reuss, traveled down the Green River in a six-day trip punctuated by discussions and readings about Ruess. Why does the story of this particular young man still hold such power? The answer is personal, but universal. Tellier says Ruess’s story illustrates “the capacity to fully enjoy and embrace little things, little bits of beauty here and there, when they happen. Today, everything has become easy, so we tend to take everything for granted. Everett could have had a quieter and simpler life in LA...but he chose a more demanding path, where things that matter mean even more. Russell Neilson, a member of the river expedition, says, “My paternal grandfather is my “Everett Ruess” whom I’ve been following for all my life. As a young boy of 12 he left home and herded sheep in the deserts of Nevada. He didn’t disappear, although he very easily could have as someone took a bullet for him in a gunfight during those early years of the 20th century. He lived to become a schoolteacher, poet, orator, photographer. etc. Grandpa John R. died many years before I was born after raising seven children. Each of them adored him, as did the community, which he had a
lasting impact on.” Catherine Smith says, “In the search for him through the items he left—journal entries, poems and art work, I had a glimpse into his short life. I have found a reflective piece of my life, and discovered qualities in the lives of ancestors who have made me who I am today.” Waldo Ruess lived until 1998 and attended the first Everett Ruess Days, held every September in Escalante. He once said, “He kept his dream. Most of us go lock-step through the decades, talking about what we’d like to do and never doing it.” Frank Cook of Peregrine Smith Books once said Everett Ruess represents “that special spirit which exists in all of us but which few have the courage or opportunity to express.” Tellier, who made the French film, says, “It’s a universal story of a young man, a child, really, going off to find himself and his art.” The story made him think of his own child, says Tellier. “Would you let your child do that? I think not.” In 2009, National Geographic headlines proclaimed: “Everett Ruess Mystery Solved!” University of Colorado researchers found human remains 60 miles from where his burros were discovered. The DNA in the
RUESS PHOTO: SPECIAL COLLECTIONS, J. WILLARD MARRIOTT LIBRARY, THE UNIVERSITY OF UTAH
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bones appeared to match Ruess’s. But a further DNA analysis confirmed that the body was not that of Everett Ruess. “His legacy is what it’s all about,” says Sanders. “It’s not about finding his bones.” The last Utah screening of Le Disparition d’Everett Ruess before the Tellier’s return to France was at City Library. The place was packed with boomers with a sold-out dream behind them, young hopefuls with lives before them, all dreaming of freedom, living wild, owing nothing to nobody. There was a sense that the dream of living free, of seeking self in the wilderness, the fascination with one who dared to step out of the mundane and into the unknown, was in the heart of everyone who came to watch. The quest for Everett Ruess continues, but you can’t help but wonder if it’s better that Ruess never be found. Perhaps this mystery is best left unsolved. Its lingering questions allow dreams to live on.
Everett Ruess
Say that I starved; that I was lost and weary; That I was burned and blinded by the desert sun; Footsore, thirsty, sick with strange diseases; Lonely and wet and cold…but that I kept my dream! —Everett Ruess, “Wilderness Song”
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Utah has the Greatest Snow on Earth. So great we capitalize it and proclaim it on our license plates—with an exclamation mark. Our great snow is not a myth. But why is Utah snow so great? And, considering how fast the natural world is changing, will it always be the greatest? >>>
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n Dec. 4, 1960, the Home Magazine of the Salt Lake Tribune coined the phrase “The Greatest Snow on Earth,” riffing on the Ringling Bros. and Barnum & Bailey Circus tagline. We all know that PT Barnum was the king of blarney, but this Utah claim was actually true. Before atmospheric science was a thing and shortly after the 1932 Winter Games in Lake Placid, NY, meteorologist and avid skier S. D. Green told a Salt Lake Tribune reporter that Utah’s snow and skiing were superior to Lake Placid attributing his claim to the “natural advantages” found here. Planting, possibly, seeds for the Utah Olympic movement. But it wasn’t until weather forecasting technology advanced that scientists were able to really prove that, yes, Utah truly has the Greatest Snow on Earth. And, if you ski, you know the thrill of a Utah powder day, even more so if you’ve experienced East Coast ice sheets or West Coast “Sierra
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77 Professor Jim Steenburgh makes snow science approachable to nonscientific types and helps us understand the truth behind Utah’s snow and how climate issues will most likely affect it.
Cement.” Our great snow is not a myth—it’s a reality we experience every winter.
THE FLAKES
PHOTO ADAM FINKLE
Snow is made up of millions of tiny flakes. To understand snow, you have to understand the flake, and we don't mean ski bums in the bars. Most average American kids spend some classroom time folding and cutting out paper snowflakes. And any average American teacher probably mentioned that no two snowflakes are alike. Of course, it’s more complicated than that—Jim Steenburgh, professor of atmospheric science at the University of Utah, has devoted an entire book to the subject, Secrets of the Greatest Snow on Earth, making snow science approachable. Snowflakes, Steenburgh says, aren’t (like you might think) frozen rain and they’re not usually individual snow crystals—the big, puffy flakes that fall when it’s just below freezing are actually bunches of crystals glommed together. In cold weather, water droplets crystallize into symmetrical shapes around tiny pieces of dust as they fall. Charmingly, an individual snowflake’s shape is called a “habit,” a hexagonal prism, and scientists, predictably, have the varieties divided up into tidy
Stellar plate
Sectored Plate
categories. Six side facets form along the side and two-side facets form at the top and the bottom. As it gets colder, the crystals change shape, or habits; the more humid it is, the bigger the flake. Utah snow is a mad mix of these habits, growing at different altitudes and temperatures—they’re highly irregular. Most Utah snowflakes are “defective, poorly formed, broken when colliding into other snowflakes, rimed or aggregated,” Steenburgh says. Utah snow is nothing like the elegant crystals in pretty habit diagrams that Steenburgh and his fellows draw and there’s no way you could ever cut a Utah snowflake out of paper. Utah snow is weird, a kind of Frankenstein’s snow (Frankensnow?) and, while no two snowflakes are alike, no snowflakes are like Utah’s.
THE GREAT LAKE EFFECT Urban myths and half-truths swirl around like flakes when it comes to explaining just why Utah’s snow is so great—the lightest, the driest, the most-powdery. You may have heard it’s because of our mountains’ proximity to the Great Salt Lake—the famous lake effect. If you’re really a snow nerd, you might have heard this described as “a unique orographic enhancement.”
Needles
Hollow Columns
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Local Snowcast Revelators It may be the greatest, but how do you know when the next bluebird day is upon us? Snow worshipers rejoice! Local atmospheric grad students at the U do us a favor by relaying optimal days to go (and when not to) on their site: utahskiweather.com, these guys tweet too: @utahskiweather.
The lake effect only accounts for about five percent of the annual snow in the Cottonwood Canyons. It occurs when the difference between the temperature of the relatively warm lake’s surface and the cold air above the lake is sufficiently large. When this difference in temperature is large enough, moisture and heat from the lake’s surface rise into the lower levels of the atmosphere and generate snowfall. Cool note: An extreme lake effect can cause thundersnow—snow showers with lightning and thunder.
HOW THE SNOW FALLS Besides the vaunted lake effect, Utah snow is great because of its water content— not a lot—and the pattern of its fall. Denser
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snow (with more water) is heavier and falls faster; lighter snow falls more slowly and has time to get more complex. Snow that’s less than seven percent water is considered light, heavy is over 11 percent. Man-made snow is really dense, with an average of 24-28 percent. Dense snow creates an excellent base layer for skiing, sure, but you want the light stuff, powder, on the top. Snow in California’s and Nevada’s Sierra Nevada range is well over 11 percent water—hence the term “Sierra Cement.” Utah snow, however, has an average density of 8.4 percent. The key to our amazing snow is a quick-change temperature fluctuation common to Utah snowstorms. Often a storm starts when it's warmer, which creates a water-dense base layer, and as the temperatures drop, lighter snow follows. This is called “right-side up”
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RECIPE ULTIMATE POWDER The combination of these conditions creates the ultimate powder climate. Topography (big mountains)
+
Storm Temperature (warm to cold storms, right side up or hero snow)
+
Depth (at least 10-plus inches, enhanced by orographic flow and lake effect)
+
Frequency (Goldilocks Snow averaging every 10 days)
=
The Greatest Snow on Earth 10-plus inches of new snow allows flotation, so skis and boards do not ride on the underlying surface. With lesser amounts of new snow, we get “dust on crust.” The skiing looks great, but skis and boards sink and scrape into the underlying, crusty old snowpack. Utah’s climate supports more right-side up snowfalls, when storm temperatures start warmer (resulting in denser snow) and get progressively colder (less dense) lighter snow.
OTHER WAYS TO EXPERIENCE GREATNESS ON SNOW Fat Bikes: A new trend from people who can’t ever sit still, these fat-tire bikes can travel across packed snow. Swap the beach cruiser for a snow cruiser. Snowshoe: Explore the Night Owling Snowshoe Tour at Sundance Mountain Resort or Utah Avalanche Center tours in the backcountry.
Winter hiking: With all the traffic on local trails even in winter and especially Millcreek Canyon, snow gets packed down fast in the Wasatch making snowshoes unnecessary. Just strap on some YakTrax or other traction aids and walk on the packed snow. Bonus tip: Trekking poles or that spare set of ski poles you have lying around in the garage will help you keep your feet.
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80 snowfall (vs. upside-down). The fluffy stuff stays on top and skiers and boarders feel like they’re floating down Utah slopes. Hopefully, right-side up.
CLIMATE CHANGE: FROM GREATEST, TO NOT-SO-GREAT? Global warming is being noticed most significantly in the Arctic, but Utah temperatures are warmer now than recorded just a few years ago. A cold winter in the early 21st century would have been an average winter in the mid-20th. Going even further into the past, looking at ice cores and tree rings, paleoclimatologists can figure out what the weather was like before humans were keeping records and even map out future climate scenarios based on the projected levels of greenhouse gases like carbon dioxide and methane. With even the smallest increase in temperatures, we can expect more rain and less snow, changes to our current storms and reduced snowpack. Add to that our famously dirty air and we have a problem.
“The role of dust is one that most don’t think about when it comes to the snowpack,” explains Steenburgh. Dense dust in the atmosphere creates something called “snirt,” brown and dirty snow. Like wearing a dark-colored knitted sweater, the sun’s light is absorbed by the darker snow rather than bouncing off a clean, white snowpack. One study found snirty snow accelerates melting by 25 percent. "Globally, snow is in decline and it's not just from a warming climate—it's more complicated than that. Snow is also getting darker,” says McKenzie Skiles, assistant professor of geography at the University of Utah. As the temperatures rise, it doesn’t take a scientist to figure that more weather events will start as rain instead of snow, so we’ll have denser water-packed snow and our jokes about Sierra Cement suddenly won’t be funny anymore. The future isn’t rosy for snow sports. And it’s also gloomy for those who don’t use the snow as a playground, but simply marvel at its quiet loveliness. As Steenburgh says, “The beauty of the snow is in the eye of the beholder and no science can prove that.”
Sounding scientific:
Climatology meeting topography creates a snow-building phenomenon called “orographic flow.” That’s the rapid cooling effect that occurs as the wind pulls clouds upward rapidly over a mountain. The wet air rises quickly and drops its moisture, which produces most of the snow that falls in our big mountains.
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PHOTO ADAM FINKLE
THE OROGRAPHIC FLOW
81 The Anatomy of a Snowflake Tim Garrett, professor of atmospheric science at the University of Utah, captures three-dimensional pictures of falling snow with a multi-angle snowflake imaging system. The system gathers 3D images from three cameras with a common focal point placed toward each other from different angles. Extremely sensitive motion sensors detect a falling flake and snap a shot with a freaky fast 1⠄25K second shutter speed. With a matching set of cameras vertically placed above, like a traffic speed trap, the snowflake’s rate of speed can be determined.
Tim Garrett
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The Many Words for Snow Cascade concrete or Sierra cement: Snow with the heaviest density (highest water content) occurs in Pacific states with mild temperatures and heavy snow-depth. Wild snow or cold smoke, champagne powder or blower pow: Water content is less than four percent, temperatures are between -12 and -18-degrees Celsius and the spokes of the flakes are filled with air rather than ice. The ECONOMY OF Snow Goldilocks snow: Neither the densest nor the lightest, Utah snow’s water content averages the primo standard of about 8.4 percent. Not too wet, not too dry. Just right. Corn snow: Rough, granular surface snow occurs after alternate thawing and freezing Riming: Water particles attach to snowflakes by filling in cavities between branches and arms, adding to the snow’s density. Graupel: Snowflakes completely coated by riming are graupel pellets, styrofoam-like snow that bounces off the ground. Man-made snow: Very dense, comprised of frozen water droplets, it can be a necessary evil. Diamond dust: Tiny, super-chilled snowflakes that glitter on sunny days.
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THERE’S GOLD IN THEM THAR FLAKES. Either the first or second question someone who isn’t from Utah will ask you after learning you live here is: “Do you ski?” (The next, or first, query is always “Are you Mormon?”) The visibility of skiing in Utah is, in a large part the result of major marketing efforts from the Utah Department of Economic Development and Ski Utah the marketing organization collectively owned by Utah’s 15 resorts. According to Ski Utah’s annual report, last season was the state’s second-best resulting in $1.32 billion in total visitor spending. Out-of-state skier and snowboarder spending ($1.068 billion) resulted in the creation of more than 21,000 total jobs and $226.4 million in state and local tax revenue. So skiing isn’t just a fun way to play on the snow, in Utah, it’s big business. So what happens if the snow goes away? Resorts are responding with green initiatives from the token elimination of using straws and plastic to big deals like Alta’s planting 1,500 trees. In 2015, Ski Utah signed on with Protect Our Winters, a national organization that lobbies the governments at the state and local levels and to address climate change (and melting snow) through clean energy and emission reduction policy.
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FOUR REASONS TO SKI HERE NOW There are lots of ways to play in the Greatest Snow on Earth but skiing and snowboarding are the main way we do it here in the Beehive. 11 world-famous resorts are less than a two-hour drive from Salt Lake International Airport, and four more through the state, brought 5 million visitors here last season. Maybe you should give it a try? Here are four reasons why it’s easier than it used to be and more affordable too.
No. 1: Easier Snow In the old days, the rest of the mountain was left as nature intended i.e. difficult to ski. But now we have grooming. From the immaculate slopes of Deer Valley to the mainline runs at old school Alta, (which recently bought the world’s first hybrid electric-gas snowcat for grooming) modern skiing isn’t trying to be difficult. “We know people are choosing where to ski because of the quality of grooming and
the number of groomed runs,” says Park City General Manager Bill Rock.
No. 2: Better Gear
Think comfortable ski boots that feature a walk mode and, inversely, less-comfortable snowboard boots that bring some of the stiffness of ski boots to snowboarding to make it easier than ever to carve. Plus, the newest skis and snowboards use sidecut and rocker technology (think of the contour of a rocking chair rocker) that make turning—the key to going downhill on waxed sleds strapped to your feet—way easier.
No. 3: Better Lessons
“Beginners,” says veteran Alta ski instructor Scott Mathers, make two classic mistakes. One: “They let their friends teach them.” And two: “They don’t give it enough time. It takes more than one day to enjoy fully.” The concept of
“terrain-based” learning is becoming the norm, it’s the primary focus of Woodward Park City, which opens this season. The method puts you on a deliberately designed course that features small doses of different mountain terrain. And lessons aren’t just for beginners any more. Resorts offer clinics, tune ups and refreshers for all ages and levels. At Mathers’ Alta, for example, women’s clinics turn into full-scale wellness retreats with yoga and spa time factored in. And for the kids, ski school now is also about teaching the parents to teach.
No. 4: More Terrain Utah is home to the largest resort in the United States, Park City, but the real game-changer is the advent of multi-resort passes that have lowered prices for season passes across the board and offer more resorts to sample and find your groove.
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the little black dress YOU CAN WEAR IT ANYWHERE.
The LBD has always been your best friend. The Little Black Dress is such a staple in a woman’s wardrobe it’s almost become a cliche. Except that’s the whole point: It can’t. The right LBD is so versatile it can take you anywhere from the office to the dance floor. Dress it up, dress it down, pair it with your diamondsoled shoes or your biker boots, your grandma’s necklace or your glitziest costume statement. The Little Black Dress can handle it all. Just to be sure, we test-drove the concept.
ART DIRECTION: JE ANINE MILLER PHOTOGRAPHY: ADAM FINKLE ST YLING BY FARASHA: VANESSA DI PALMA WRIGHT ASSISTANT ST YLISTS: KYLER THOMPSON & HARLY RICHARDS HAIR AND MAKEUP: TRICIA SNOW MODEL: CARDIN MCKINNE Y, NIYA MODELS
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RED Valentino Pleated Lace Dress, Bastille ($950)
YOU’RE GOING TO A HOLIDAY PARTY AT HOTEL MONACO. You’re going to meet your date in the chic lobby of the boutique hotel and you want to make a first impression that lasts all night. Start with the LBD. Kenzo Faux Fur Coat, Bastille ($995); Valentino Clutch, Nordstrom ($2145); Pomellato 18K Rose Gold Earrings ($3,960) and Bracelet, O.C. Tanner Jewelers ($13,200); Fred Leighton White Topaz Necklace, O.C. Tanner Jewelers ($8,800); Picchiotti 4.54 Carat Expandable Diamond Ring, O.C. Tanner Jewelers ($12,800); Sheer Tights, Target ($10); Sam Edelman Silver Pumps, Nordstrom ($99)
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YOU’RE MEETING A FORMER BEST FRIEND FOR DINNER AT HSL. You’re going straight from work but you don’t want to look like a West Wing extra—this is not a buttoned-up occasion. And you’re not that kind of girl, anyway. A chunky boot and a belted glen plaid jacket, over the LBD. Olivaceous Blazer, Katie Waltman ($60); Bravo Leather Belt, Habit ($110); Chanel Navy Handbag, The Lady Bag ($2295); BC Footwear Shoes, Flight ($80); Natalie Wynn Earrings, Natalie Wynn Design ($68); Katie Waltman Choker, Katie Waltman ($98); Picchiotti 4.54 Carat Expandable Diamond Ring, O.C. Tanner Jewelers ($12,800)
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IT’S HOLIDAY TIME— SHOP FOR SOME HIGHEND BLING AT O.C. TANNER JEWELERS. The boots are made for shopping and layers keep you feeling warm and looking chill as you peruse the sparklies you’re going to buy and wish you could. The LBD takes you through the store and out to lunch. By Together Shearling Coat, Habit ($138); Chanel Vintage Velvet Handbag, The Lady Bag ($2795); Dries Van Noten Sweater, Nordstrom ($970); Sam Edelman Boots, Nordstrom ($200); Pomellato 18K Rose Gold Concentric Circle Earrings ($3,540), Collar Necklace with Diamonds ($5,800), Nudo Ring Stack; Pavé Diamond ($5,700) Citrine ($2,350) Lemon Quartz ($1,750) O.C. Tanner Jewelers
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THIS IS THEATER SEASON AND YOU’RE TAKING IN A SHOW AT THE ECCLES. No one dresses up to be part of an audience anymore, even on opening night at the opera. But showtime is a special occasion and it’s no fun to make it drab. Slip on some sexy stockings and your highest heels (remember, you’ll be sitting) and you’re the subtle star in the middle of the orchestra section. To get you there from here: a cashmere coat over your LBD. JUST Female Camel Coat, Mary Jane’s ($335); Gucci Vintage Handbag, The Lady Bag ($2495); Jeffrey Campbell Satin Pump, Nordstrom ($120); Polka Dot Sheer Tights, Target ($10); Ole Lynngaard Copenhagen 18K White Gold Leaf Pendant with Pavé Diamond, Grey & White Moonstone Charm Necklace ($5,000), Rutile Quartz Pendant with Pavé Diamond Charm Necklace ($7,950), Leather Bracelet with Moonstone Charm ($1,715) Roberto Coin 18K Yellow Gold Ring with Diamonds ($2,400) O.C. Tanner Jewelers
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IT’S TOTALLY COOL TO COCKTAIL ALONE AT POST OFFICE PLACE. The hat says it all—it takes certainty for a woman to don a man’s hat. Just a slight angle to the brim and you’re totally cool in your snakeskin boots and moto jacket over your LBD. BlankNYC Faux Leather Jacket, Flight ($138); Lack of Color Fedora, Habit ($99); Saint Laurent Pyramid Minaudière, Nordstrom ($1450); Paige Snakeskin Boots, Nordstrom ($350); John Hardy Sterling Silver Spear Cuff ($1,295), Lahar Cuff with Grey Diamonds ($2,695), Twisted Chain Bracelet with Pavé Diamonds ($1,795) Classic Chain Coil Ring with Black Sapphires ($895), Asli Classic Chain Ring ($495) O.C. Tanner Jewelers
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Now Open
Free with Admission
THOMAS MORAN (AMERICAN, BORN ENGLAND, 1837-1926) MIST IN KANAB CANYON, UTAH, 1892, OIL ON CANVAS, (44 3/8 X 38 3/8 IN.) SMITHSONIAN AMERICAN ART MUSEUM, BEQUEST OF MRS. BESSIE B. CROFFUT, 1942.11.10
a&e ARTS | ENTERTAINMENT
Joining the Symphony 92 SLC Jazz History . . . . . 94 Calendar . . . . . . . . . . . 96
Shared Art at UMFA
Beginning October 25, visitors to the UMFA (Utah Museum of Fine Arts) will find three spectacular American paintings on loan from the Smithsonian American Art Museum and from a new collection-sharing program called Art Bridges. Above: Thomas Moran’s Mist in Kanab Canyon, Utah (1892) inspires deeper exploration of how nineteenth-century artists represented the Utah landscape and how their images shaped popular perceptions of the American West.
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We’re All In This Together The AUDIENCE Is Part Of Utah Symphony Orchestra
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istening to the Utah Symphony Orchestra from a seat in Abravanel Hall is one thing. Listening to the Utah Symphony Orchestra from the stage is another. Salt Lake magazine sent writer Jen Hill to sit on stage while the orchestra rehearsed Tchaikovsky’s “1812 Overture.” Yes, that’s the one where the score calls for live cannons. But no writers were harmed in the research for this article: Hill wore earplugs and a kind horn player suggested she also use a plastic acoustic shield like many orchestra members use. Seated next to Second Bassoon, Jennifer Rhodes, Hill had the chance, not only to hear, but to observe: “I watched as musicians would stop to meticulously adjust their chairs or obsessively clear out the spit in their instruments. I kept watching all the non-verbal signals that would travel around the stage, a grimace from Conductor Conner Covington after a misstep, a smile for the strings hitting their cue, rolled eyes above a clarinet at missed notes, nods and head shakes, winks and foot taps. It all added up to a complicated camaraderie among the musicians and between them all and the conductor.” Hill was also able to appreciate Covington’s main role. From the back of Abravanel it may just look like he’s waving his arms around; to the orchestra, he’s sending out all the cues,
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keeping precise tempo, thinking forward to the next line and who needs to be prompted at exactly the right moment and to what degree, and mostly, listening to the collected instruments as one giant, super instrument. Covington explains, “Downplaying themselves, our musicians see themselves as one unit, which is one of the goals or intentions of a symphony orchestra.” All the while, he’s making mental notes on what
needs to be addressed or adjusted and will bring to the to the musicians’ attention later. “The material we perform now is the best we have ever created,” says Covington. “The Utah Symphony has a tremendous opportunity to create authentic human connections in an age inundated with electronics and social media.” Whatever is going on up on stage, musicians at this level are having fun, in a very serious way.
PHOTOS ADAM FINKLE
Jen Hill sits in with the Utah Symphony
BY MARY BROWN MALOUF
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The Utah Symphony Orchestra celebrates its 80th anniversary this spring. And members never forget that a concert is a conversation with an audience. Utah Symphony’s Associate Conductor Conner Covington (left) says, “It takes a long time to build trust with an audience, so you can venture off and offer more than just the standard bread and butter performances.” For its 80th Anniversary Gala on Saturday, May 16, 2020, at Abravanel Hall. The concert will include two original selections from the Utah Symphony’s inaugural 1940 concert: Johann Strauss, Jr.’s majestic “Emperor Waltzes” and “Moldau” from Smetana’s Má Vlast, as well as
PHOTO CREDIT TK
Beethoven’s Violin Concerto performed by Joshua Bell, one of the most celebrated violinists of this generation.
Meet the new guy. Conner Gray Covington begins his second season with the Utah Symphony as Associate Conductor backing up Conductor and Music Director Thierry Fischer.
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I DO IT FOR ME. AND FOR THE BANDS.
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PHOTO ADAM FINKLE
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— SHERM CLOW
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Collecting Sounds Sherm Clow Owns THE STORY OF JAZZ in Salt Lake City BY MARY BROWN MALOUF
E
veryone knows the only Jazz in Utah play basketball. Everyone, that is, except Reverend Willis, otherwise known as Sherm Clow. Clow is a jazz music aficionado and his collection of recordings is audible proof that, as he says, “There’s always been jazz in Utah.” When we say recordings, we don’t mean purchased CDs and downloaded music. We mean recordings Clow has made himself of jazz played in Salt Lake City, beginning in the ’70s. His
collection amounts to an audible history of local jazz music. “Jazz here has waxed and waned,” says Claugh. “But you could always detect a heartbeat.” The downstairs of the house Claugh shares with his partner is devoted to his passions—besides jazz, he loves film noir. But jazz is first and foremost. In addition to his collection of self-made recordings, Clow also carries a history of Salt Lake jazz in his head. He riffs on memories of places—Kilby Court,
Monk’s House of Jazz, Zanzibar and low profile underground clubs—and the players who performed there. Names like the Joshua Payne Orchestra, the Chisholm brothers, John Henry, Henry Wolking, the Salt Lake City Jazz Orchestra emerge as if he heard the music yesterday even though some of his recordings are decades old. “I’ve always been interested in recording but in the late ’90s, digital equipment made it affordable,” says Clow. Now he has hundreds of recordings.
WHERE TO HEAR LOCAL JAZZ: Every Wednesday at Lake Effect, in the Rabbit Hole. 155 W. 200 South, SLC, 801-285-8494, lakeeffectslc.com Gracie’s features live jazz on Monday nights. 326 W. Temple, SLC, 801-819-7565, graciesslc.com The Bayou has live jazz on weekends. 645 S. State St., SLC, 801-961-8400, utahbayou.com The Garage on Beck features live jazz—check the calendar. 1199 Beck St., SLC, 801- 521-3904, garageonbeck.com For more jazz information check out the Salt Lake Jazz Festival website: slcjazzfestival.com N O V / D E C 2 0 1 9 | S A LT L A K E M A G A Z I N E . C O M
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POPULAR GIRLS
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Brandi Carlile and Tanya Tucker. Wait. Really? Yep. This combo of Carlisle’s new and Tucker’s and classic will blow the lid off the Viv. December 6, Vivint Smart Home Arena. ticketmaster.com
CLEAN COMEDY Brian Regan probably didn’t plan on being Utah’s favorite comedian, but his non-expletive-laden brand of humor packs the house every time he’s in town. November 9, John M. Huntsman Center, SLC, smithstix.com
TIME TRAVEL When Vesuvius destroyed Pompeii, it also preserved a record of daily life in the Roman Empire. Explore the ancient city. December, The Leonardo, theleonardo.org
On our Radar The top A&E events for November and December 2019
OLD TIMEY CHRISTMAS MARKET
Chelsea Handler is everywhere these days and so she will be making a stop in SLC in support of her latest book Life Will Be the Death of Me as part of her “Sit-Down” comedy tour. November 22, Kingsbury Hall
SPIRITUAL QUEST Bruce Cockburn’s music has chronicled his spiritual quest from Christianity to mysticism. In his latest album, Crowing Ignites, an instrumental set featuring the guitarist‘s distinctive picking style, he explores his Gaelic roots and world music. November 17, The State Room. stateroom.com
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TWO CRACKED NUTS Odyssey Dance RedXnutcracker Hip Hop Nutcracker at Eccles
HOLIDAY MUSIC MUSTS LOWER LIGHTS A changing group of local folk musicians perform lesserknown holiday songs and popular music. December 11, 12, 14, Kingsbury Hall. Tickets at excite.com
CHOIR AT TEMPLE SQUARE CHRISTMAS CONCERTS The world famous Mormon Tabernacle Choir (renamed The Choir at Temple Square but it’ll always be MoTab to us) performs December 12-14 at The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-Day Saints Conference Center.
UTAH SYMPHONY: A CELEBRATION December 13, 14, Abravanel Hall, utahsymphony.org
PHOTOS: CHELSEA HANDLER, EMMA MCINTYRE/GETTY IMAGES; BRANDI CARLISLE, ALYSSE GAFKJEN
FUNNY LADY
Chistkindlmarkt, December 4-7, This is the Place Heritage Park
October 25, 2019 – October 4, 2020
ON SPECIAL LOAN FROM THE
SMITHSONIAN AMERICAN ART MUSEUM T H R E E S P E C TA C U L A R PA I N T I N G S B Y
The Lay of the Land: Landscape Paintings from the Smithsonian American Art Museum is one in a series of American art exhibitions created through a multi-year, multi-institutional partnership formed by the Smithsonian American Art Museum as part of the Art Bridges + Terra Foundation Initiative.
PRESEN T ING SPONSOR: SUE AND AL L ANDON CURATORIAL SPONSOR: STEPHANIE AND TIM HARPST
Heart Challenge LEADERS WITH
The LEADERS WITH HEART CHALLENGE invites leaders in our community to face the challenge of our state, nation and world’s leading causes of death and preventable disability – heart disease and stroke. These leaders committed to individually raise or donate $5,000 or more to create a healthier community for ourselves, our families and our employees to live, play and work, free of heart disease and stroke. Matt Lyon COO, WCF Insurance, 2019 Utah Heart & Stroke Walk Chairman
Greg Summerhays
Cody Green
Marc Briggs
Scott Hudson
CEO, South Valley Chamber
Senior Manager, Quality, Edwards Lifesciences
CEO, UnitedHealthcare Medicare Plans
Senior Engineer, Quality, Edwards Lifesciences
Kevin Peterson
Mark Robinson
Douglas Tapking
SVP of Sales & Distribution, WCF Insurance
CEO, St. Mark’s Hospital
Board of Directors, American Heart Association
Andrea Mitton Claims Commercial Liability Director, WCF Insurance
THANK YOU! •
heartwalkutah.org
#love
utah SOCIETY | SOCIAL
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Peace House . . . . . . . 100 Zoo Rendezvous . . . . 102 One Big Miracle . . . . . 103
A collection of photos from the many local events covered in greater detail on saltlakemagazine.com
Diego Zegarra and Lori Weston
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Peace House Community Campus Ribbon Cutting September 21, 2019, Park City, Photos by Kyle Jenkins Leaders of Peace House, a non-profit organization dedicated to ending domestic abuse and family violence hosted a public ribbon cutting at their new Community Campus.
1 Hannah Vaughn, Reihaneh Noori, Soon Ju Kwon 2 Doug Clyde, Melissa Caffey 3 Representative Tim Quinn, Representative Angela Romero, Lieutenant Governor Spencer Cox, Retired Senator Kevin Van Tassell 4 Sharon and Bob Mardula 5 Representative Tim Quinn, Jim Smith, Kendra Wyckoff, Tami Whisker, Morgan Busch, Lori Weston, Sharon Mardula
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6 Diego Zegarra, Lori Weston 7 Jane Patten 8 Sharon Mardula, Doug Clyde 9 John Davis, Lonnie Smith, Mary Gootjes, Tim Savage, Sally Tauber, Nathan Rafferty, Roger Armstrong, Chelsea Benetz, Jane Patten 10 Kendra Wyckoff, Karen Marriott 11 Liza Springmeyer, Patti Wells 12 Jeff and Sue Proctor, Jane Patten
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Zoo Rendezvous September 5, 2019, Hogle Zoo, SLC An Annual Fundraiser For The Animals Of Utah’s Hogle Zoo
1 Tiffini Sorcic 2 Maura Carabello and Chris Burbank 3 Jim and Theda Hogle
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One Big Miracle August 11, Bar-X patio Fundraiser for Hospitality Workers in Dire Straits
1 Matthew Pfohl, Joshua Payne Orchestra 2 Clint Hollingsworth, Frankie 3 Alejandro Olivares, Caprice Ossana 4 Jacob Hall, Scoop, Clarke Holland 5 Smoke Co. Fire Show
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ON THE
table
PHOTOADAM FINKLE
FOOD | DINING
Franck Peissel and Clement Gelas
Courchevel . . . . . . . . 106 The Store . . . . . . . . . . 108 Meatballs . . . . . . . . . . 110 Shake Shack . . . . . . . 112 Celeste . . . . . . . . . . . . . 114 Tin Angel . . . . . . . . . . . 118 Bambara . . . . . . . . . . 122
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Dessert by Franck Peissel
OLD MEETS NEW
Mountain Food at Courchevel Above: Slow roasted rack of pork, potato farcement, mesclun greens, juniper berry sauce; Smoked trout market Salad with frisee
IF YOU GO
ADDRESS: 201 Heber Ave., Park city WEB: courchevelbistro.com PHONE: 435-572-4398 ENTREES: $$-$$$
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hat ensures a successful restaurant? “Location, location, location,” is the usual answer. But you can hardly find a better location than the space that has been Sky Lodge, Main & Sky, Coal & Lumber, etc. Who knows why none of them lasted? Now the space is occupied by Courcheval Bistro, a Talisker property. The downstairs space is for members only, but Courcheval, with its prime people-viewing patio looking right over the pedestrian traffic, is open to all. Longtime Talisker chef Clement Gelas is in the kitchen and right at home. Courchevel is the name of Park City’s sister city in the Savoie region of France. And Savoie is Chef Gelas’ home turf. He worked with Red Bicycle Bakery to make the authentic Savoyarde
bread—gorgeous, crisp-crusted but with a fine crumbit comes with cultured butter. And he suggested a bottle of Schiste Domaine des Ardoisiere, a biodynamic wine from the Savoie probably never before served in Utah. Even now, Americans seem to forget that there are lots of regional cuisines in France. The food of Savoie is distinct and Gelas is having fun showing it off with an elegant spin. Courchevel is as ritzy as skiing gets; the Mont BlancChamonix snow is world-famous. But the food of the region has deep peasant roots that can still be tasted—even with the sophisticated turn this kitchen gives them, ingredients like cheese, potatoes and buckwheat have earthiness and heft. Take risotto de crozote. Not
really a risotto at all, this dish is more like mac and cheese, only the mac role is played by crozette, traditional small, square buckwheat pasta, the cheese is Gruyere and the (actually rather unattractive) dish is flecked with thick bits of bacon and decorated with pea tendrils. This is real stick-to-your-ribs stuff, making no health claims, delivering nothing but solid satisfaction. Likewise the bratwurst in brioche, the spicy sausage encased in a crisp crust and resting on a bed of white beans. Somehow, this all turns out to be hearty, but not heavy, food. Entrees include an unusual presentation of coq au vin served with carrot puree with potato matafan, potato pancake, crusted in grated potato. Desserts and chocolates are made by Franck Peissel. (Yes, that Franck.)
PHOTOS ADAM FINKLE
Talisker brings the Alps to Park City.
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Chef Paul Morello
NEWCOMER
ADDRESS: 90 S. Rio Grande St., SLC, WEB: thestoreutah.com PHONE: 385-213-7900 ENTREES: $-$$
Beef and vegetables with red wine sauce
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The Store is smaller than the average grocery, but it’s got what you need.
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he best trend in grocery stores is not a coffee bar, or a kombucha bar or mochi. The best trend in grocery stores is small. The Store at Gateway is 9,000 square feet. The typical Smith’s store is 170,000 square feet. Evidently, you can fit everything I need in in 9,000 square feet. The Store has a kombucha and coffee bar. It has a chef-prepared hot buffet and a whole menu of chef-prepared meals to go. It sells artisanal bread. And square American white bread. The Store sells a nice selection of local cheeses. And The Store sells Velveeta. The first Store opened in 1968 in Holladay. Owner Paul
Niederhauser honed its selection and purpose for The Store to become what had become nearly extinct: a neighborhood, all-purpose, family-owned grocery store. Turns out that is what everyone had been longing for, because supermarkets, what? Aren’t that super after all. Now Niederhauser’s son Scotty has opened The Store at Gateway, an area that’s been without a good grocery store forever until now. About the eclectic selection, Scotty says, “We don’t want to tell people what they should want. We just try to have what they want.” It turns out that a store this size and this open-minded is perfect for launching new foods from smaller companies: Laurie’s Chips started at The Store. Salsa
del Diablo and Rico’s have always had a strong presence. Cakes de Fleur sells retail cakes at The Store. And local companies like V Chocolates, June Pie, Cutler’s Cookies and Publik Coffee are on the shelves. “The food will evolve according to our customers,” says The Store Chef Paul Morello. Morello’s past is in fine dining and the food at the store shows that panache. Four-cheese mac and cheese, Payard’s recipe for apple rum cake, braised beef in merlot, as well as fried chicken, meatballs, sauces and pulled pork are some of Morello’s customer favorites now. “We have a hot soup bar and a sushi bar planned,” he says. And I’ll be baking breads in French wood pans.”
PHOTOS ADAM FINKLE
IF YOU GO
You can always get what you want.
The Italian Way.
I T ’S A F A M I LY T H I N G . . .
We combine our passion for family with our love of food, wine, and the finer things in life. After coming to the USA in 2013, we knew 2 things...we wanted to share our culture through cuisine and we knew that we couldn’t do it alone. Our family has not only been supportive of our dream but many have joined our crusade, relocating from Italy to help bring authentic Italian flavors to Utah.
5 locations in the Salt Lake area | www.siciliamiautah.com
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GLOBAL FOOD
On top of a meatball
The home cook’s standby can be a star.
CAFE MOLISE: Polpette di melanzane: Vegetarian eggplant “meatballs” in a shallot and tomato cream with grilled fresh asparagus and polenta. 404 S. West Temple, SLC, 801-364-8833
MANOLI’S: Keftethes: pork and beef meatballs, cinnamon tomato sauce, kefalograviera. 402 E. Harvey Milk Blvd., 801-532-3760
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TRIO: The classic Italian-American meatball, braised in tomato sauce. 680 S. 900 East, SLC, 801-533-8746
PULP: Cacci with turkey meatballs, spaghetti squash. 439 E. 900 South, SLC, 385-267-1092
MOOCHIES MEATBALLS & MORE: They say “and more” but it’s pretty much meatballs on and in everything. 232 E.800 South, SLC, 801-596-1350
PHOTOS ADAM FINKLE
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very cuisine has its meatball. They are just such an obvious solution to leftover and second-hand cuts of meat, to stretching a scant quantity of meat into enough. We think of Italian red sauce first, but most of us have a Swedish meatball recipe our mother gave us and chicken, turkey, lamb and vegetarian meatballs are delicious and as easy to make. Still—don’t want to roll your own? Here are some of Salt Lake’s top meatballs.
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BURGER NEWS
Shake Shack Fine food for the masses
IF YOU GO
ADDRESS: 11020 S. State St., Sandy WEB: shakeshack.com PHONE: 385-276-3190 ENTREES: $
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o place loves a new chain restaurant like Utah. We have lots of good home-grown eats, but we love it when we are noticed by the guys who made it big on the coasts. The thing is, chain restaurants have changed. Americans have moved on from looking for the cheapest and fastest. We’re still eschewing formality, but quality is a must. Remember when In ’N’ Out moved here? That line of cars jamming up the parking lot to get through the drive-thru lane? Our thrill over the West Coast Burger Invasion has waned.
Now, the East Coast Burger Invasion has begun: Shake Shack, the much bally-hooed burger place dreamed up by restaurant... magnate? Guru? Danny Meyer has opened in Sandy. There’s not a drive-thru window but the line of people standing outside to for a burger, fries and frozen custard shake is long. But go ahead—gut it up and get in line. Shake Shack is housed in part of the old Valley high school—the original brick walls are still visible and the indentations that used to hold chalkboards now hold menu boards listing burgers, hotdogs and—recently introduced!—chicken nuggets. As well as flavors of shakes and concretes. The day we visited, the special shake of the day was black sesame seed. See? It really is a restaurant rooted in Brooklyn. The burgers are good—made from three cuts of beef and sourced as locally as possible, according to spec. No antibiotics, no hormones, etc. Fries are crinkle-cut—I personally prefer skin-on hand-cut skinny fries, but these are good and an attempted switch to hand-cut fries was “one of the worst mistakes we made,” said the manager. People love the nostalgia of crinkle-cut and Meyer is a smart guy—he listens. In nice weather, the big garage doors on the east side open and there’s a shuffleboard court outside. Corn hole is also available and the concrete space is considered a playground. There’s also a stack of board games—remember how to play Sorry!—if you want to linger over your burger meal. Right now, the dining area, when all 143 seats are taken, sounds like a school cafeteria; it’s a little hard to imagine lingering. But, again according to the manager, Shake Shack isn’t a fast food restaurant, although the kitchen aims for an eight-minute serve time. It’s a genre called fine casual—“We have our roots in fine dining.” Shimmy on down to Shake Shack. And rest assured, more are on the way.
PHOTOS ADAM FINKLEE
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THE PLACE FOR YOUR HOLIDAY EVENTS
Post Office Place
16 W MARKET ST. • 385.202.7500 FOOD • JAPANESE WHISKY • COCKTAILS
WHERE CULTURES COLLIDE TAKASHI
18 W MARKET ST. • 801.519.9595 LUNCH • DINNER • COCKTAILS
GIFT CERTIFICATES AVAILABLE
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CELESTE AND SALT LAKE: THE TALE OF THE PERIPATETIC CHEF Once upon a time, Paolo Celeste and his friend Marco Gabrielli moved to Salt Lake City and opened an Italian restaurant in Sugar House called Michelangelo’s. A decade later, they sold the restaurant and moved back to Italy, to Versilia where Paolo was born, to open a restaurant there. But Paolo missed the U.S. so he moved back to glamorous Los Angeles, where he worked for Ago Grand group. Perhaps you’ve heard of it? Tired, we assume, of glamour, Paolo moved back to Salt Lake City in 2017 and opened Celeste.
IF YOU GO
ADDRESS: Oakwood Village Shopping Center, 5468 S. 900 East, Murray WEB: celesteristorante.com PHONE: 801-290-2913 ENTREES: $$-$$$
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Tagliata Alla Rucola e Parmigiano
ITALIAN EXCELLENCE
Looks aren’t everything Just close your eyes and eat.
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ot to admit I groaned a bit when we pulled into the parking lot at Celeste. It’s in a Murray strip mall and only a few buildings can look less promising than a standard beige strip mall. There’s not much of a chance for charm in such a setting and certainly you don’t have high hopes for. Inside, same. The floor is astonishingly beautiful turquoise-swirled polished concrete but the rest of the dining room is pretty strip mall-y. Open the menu, though, and your spirits rise. Though there are a lot of familiar faces, there are some descriptions, even of dishes you know, that give you a hint these won’t be the same over-cheesed versions Salt Lakers seem to love.
For example, ravioli incavolati—the menu emphasizes “fresh” and “homemade”—is a plate of delicate half-moons, the ricotta-kale filling showing through the sheer pasta, whole fresh sage leaves scattered on top, a butter bath and a shower of parmigiana—a radical change from the doughy pockets usually served. Every food writer in the Valley and then some has raved about this dish and rightfully so. Porchetta, rolled stuffed pork loin in a light sage sauce with spinach and roasted potatoes, also caught our eye. Why don’t more restaurants serve this dish? And when they do, why don’t they make a nice reduction sauce instead of a thick gravy? We dined at Celeste midweek and the place was far from full.
Our server seemed to warm to us after he caught on that we had met a lot of these dishes elsewhere and he kept an eye out for the empty water glass, apologizing (unnecessarily) for the ice cube that accidentally plopped into my glass after I requested no ice. Cinghiale, another traditional Tuscan dish, is a hearty boar stew, slightly hefty for the outside temperatures, but with a deep brown flavor. A slightly heavy panna cotta and a beautiful crostata—another classic that I wish would replace tiramisu— finished the meal. Too bad the wine list is meh but worse is the fact that local and out of state changes occupy so much of the best restaurant real estate in town. Celeste should be front and center.
PHOTOS ADAM FINKLE
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Give the best gift the gift of baking! Whether it's one of our baking classes, mixes, parties or one of our famous desserts get your family the gift they'll love!
CAKES, BARS, COOKIES, AND TARTS 3362 South 2300 East, East Millcreek | 801-419-0187 |
@bakinghive | bakinghive.com
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A select list of the best restaurants in Utah, curated and edited by Mary Brown Malouf.
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State Liquor License
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SALT LAKE CITY & THE WASATCH FRONT
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AMERICAN FINE DINING
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Hotel’s Garden Cafe is one of the dinner stars of the city, and the kitchen makes sure other meals here are up to the same standard. The setting here is traditionally elegant but don’t be intimidated. The food shows sophisticated invention, but you can also get a great sandwich or burger. 555 S. Main St., SLC, 801-258-6708. grandamerica.com EGN
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HSL The initials stand for “Handle Salt Lake”—Chef Briar Handly made his name with his
Park city restaurant, Handle, and now he’s opened a second restaurant down the hill. The place splits the difference between “fine” and “casual” dining; the innovative food is excellent and the atmosphere is casually convivial. The menu is unique— just trust this chef. It’s all excellent. 418 E. 200 South, SLC, 801-539-9999. hslrestaurant.com EGLLL–MLL
Pago Tiny, dynamic and food-driven,
La Caille Utah’s original glamour girl has regained her luster. The grounds are as beautiful as ever; additions are functional, like a greenhouse, grapevines and vegetable gardens, all supplying the kitchen and cellar. The interior has been refreshed and the menu by Chef Billy Sotelo has today’s tastes in mind. Treat yourself. 9565 Wasatch Blvd., Sandy, 801-942-1751. lacaille.com EGMM
Pallet This low-profile warehouse-chic
Log Haven Certainly Salt HAofLL FA M E Lake’s most picturesque res-
taurant, the old log cabin is pretty in every season. Chef Dave Jones has a sure hand with American vernacular and is not afraid of frying although he also has a way with healthy, low-calorie, highenergy food. And he’s an expert with local and foraged foods. 6451 E. Millcreek Canyon Road, SLC, 801-272-8255. log-haven. com EGN–O
Pago’s ingredients are locally sourced and reimagined regularly. That’s why it’s often so crowded and that’s what makes it one of the best restaurants in the state. The list of wines by the glass is great, but the artisanal cocktails are also a treat. 878 S. 900 East, SLC, 801-532-0777. pagoslc.com EGM–N
bistro provides the perfect setting for lingering over cocktails (the bartender is one of the best in the city) or wine and seasonally inventive food, whether you’re in the mood for a nibble or a meal. 237 S. 400 West, SLC, 801-935-4431. eatpallet.com EGM
Provisions With Chef Tyler Stokes’ bright, fresh approach to American craft cuisine (and a bright, fresh atmosphere to eat it in), Provision strives for handmade and local ideals executed with style and a little humor. 3364 S. 2300 East, SLC, 801410-4046. slcprovisions.com EGM–N ININ
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Dining Award Hall Of Fame Winner
Bambara Chef Nathan Powers makes decisions about food based on sustainability and the belief that good food should be available to everybody. Using a Burgundian imagination, he turns out dishes with a sophisticated heartiness three times a day. 202 S. Main St., SLC, 801-363-5454. bambara-slc.com EGLLL–MLL
Listings
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GUIDE LEGEND
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Table X A trio of chefs col-
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laborate on a forward-thinking thoroughly artisanal menu—vegetables are treated as creatively as proteins (smoked sunchoke, chile-cured pumpkin, barbecued cannelini beans,) WAR
Quintessential Utah This selective guide has no relationship to any advertising in the magazine. Review visits are anonymous, and all expenses are paid by Salt Lake magazine.
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AMERICAN CASUAL Avenues Bistro on Third
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This tiny antique storefront has new owners—Chef Mike Ritchie, proprietor of Fireside on Regent. The place has been decluttered and the menu has been revamped, but the charm is intact. Rabbit pot pie, lobster beignets, Moroccan-spiced duck and crafted chicken hash are some of the upscale yet homestyle dishes om the menu. 564 E. Third Ave., SLC, 801-831-5409. EGL WAR
Blue Lemon Blue Lemon’s sleek interior
tables, linoleum floors, Elvis kitsch and tunes on the jukebox make this an all-American fave, along with comfort food classics like pancakes, patty melts and chicken-fried steak in sausage gravy over smashed potatoes and veggie burgers. 2041 S. 2100 East, SLC, 801-463-1151. GL
Cafe Niche Anytime is the best time to eat here. Food comes from farms all over northern Utah and the patio is a favorite in fine weather. 779 E. 300 South, SLC, 801433-3380. caffeniche.com EGL–N
Citris Grill Most dishes come in either “hearty” or “petite” portion sizes. This means you can enjoy a smoked salmon pizzetta or fried rock shrimp appetizer and then a petite order of fire-roasted pork chops with adobo rub and black bean–corn salsa. Expect crowds. 3977 S. Wasatch Blvd, SLC, 801-466-1202. citrisgrill.com EGM
Holladay, Ryan Lowder’s Copper Kitchen reprises his downtown Copper Onion and Copper Common success with variations. The menu is different, but the heartiness is the same; the interior is different but the easy, hip atmosphere is the same, and the decibel levels are very similar. 4640 S. 2300 East, Holladay, 385-237-3159. copperkitchenslc.com EGL–N
Copper Onion An instant hit when it opened, constant crowds attest to the continuing popularity of Ryan Lowder’s Copper Onion. Though the hearty, flavorful menu changes regularly, some favorites never leave: the mussels, the burger, the ricotta dumplings. Bank on the specials. 111 E. Broadway, SLC, 801-355-3282. thecopperonion.com EGL–N ININ
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and high-concept food have city style. Informal but chic, many-flavored but healthy, Blue Lemon’s unique take on food and service is a happy change from downtown’s food-as-usual. 55 W. South Temple, SLC, 801-328-2583. bluelemon.com GL–M
Copper Kitchen A welcome addition to
Blue Plate Diner Formica
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bread and butter are made in-house and ingredients are the best (Solstice chocolate cake.) Expect surprises. 1457 E. 3350 South, SLC, 385-528-3712. tablexrestaurant.com EGM–N
Cucina Deli Cucina has added
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fine restaurant to its list of descriptors—good for lunch or a leisurely dinner. The menu has recently expanded to include small plates and subWAR
We’ve Moved! our neW hoMe is on the corner of West teMple and 400 south in the historic eagles Building.
~ Italian Cuisine ~ 801-364-8833 caffemolise.com
~ Wine Bar ~ 801-359-2814 btgwinebar.com
404 S West Temple • Salt Lake City, UT N O V / D E C 2 0 1 9 | S A LT L A K E M A G A Z I N E . C O M
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OLD MEETS NEW
Angels Landing Above: Herb seared Rainbow Trout, Orzo Pilaf
IF YOU GO
ADDRESS: 131 Main St., SLC WEB: thetinangel.com PHONE: 801-328-4155 ENTREES: $$-$$$
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ssues with a landlord closed a door and the city sort of opened a window for Kestrel and Jerry Liedtke, owners of beloved restaurant Tin Angel. “People used to walk in our old location, across the street from Pioneer Park, and say “ This doesn’t feel like Salt Lake,” and Jerry and I would look at each other and say, “We nailed it!” says Kestrel Liedtke. When the couple opened Tin Angel, Salt Lakers had not seen anything like it before: Upscale, inventive food served in a thoroughly bohemian setting —the Angel was a total pushback against the conventional style and vibe of most restaurants. But disputes with the building’s owner and aspirations piled up—as happens in downtown restaurants. So when the city sent out an RFP for restaurants
interested in replacing the former bistro in the lobby of the Eccles Theater, the Liedtke’s jumped. Cautiously. Because there were (are) lots of challenges with this location. Food service was surely an afterthought for the Eccles designers because the cafe space is at the front of the building and the kitchen is at the back. Tricky, because diners are always on a deadline—either the show is starting or the intermission bell is ringing. Basically, says Kestrel: “Service and speed is essential.” Another catch: The Eccles is a flame-free building: Food has to be cooked in an oven or panini-maker or other appliance. Kestrel was undaunted. Her reaction? “I thought it sounded fun!” In a 30-page proposal, she outlined plans for everything from décor to hours of
operation. (Tin Angel at The Eccles is open for both lunch and dinner—remember that when you’re shopping or looking at holiday lights.) Meanwhile, everything had to be approved by the Eccles’ design committee. That’s a big change from the former free-wheeling Tin Angel. The architects are hugely committed to the big, open, starkly white lobby space—a shock for anyone who ever dined at the original Angel. Soft green banquettes and warm wood soften the space and, more importantly, the food and drink menu and the staff (some of whom have worked at the Angel for seven or nine years) have moved to the new space too. And they’ve brought with them the familiar sense of coziness and welcome.
PHOTOS ADAM FINKLE
Tin Angel at the Eccles downtown is wide open.
119 stantial beer and wine-by-the-glass lists. 1026 E. Second Ave., SLC, 801-322-3055. cucinaslc.com EGM
The Dodo It’s hard even to update the review of this venerable bistro. So much stays the same. But, like I always say, it’s nice to know where to get quiche when you want it. And our raspberry crepes were great. Yes, I said crepes. From the same era as quiche. 1355 E. 2100 South, SLC, 801486-2473. thedodorestaurant.com EGM
Em’s Restaurant Housed in an old Capitol Hill storefront with a valley view, much of Em’s appeal is its unique charm. For lunch, try the sandwiches on ciabatta. At dinner, the kitchen moves up the food chain. If the weather’s fine, choose to sit on the patio at sunset. 271 N. Center St., SLC, 801-596-0566. dayroomandems.com EGM
Epic American food here borrows from other cuisines. Save room for pineapple sorbet with stewed fresh pineapple. 707 E. Fort Union Blvd., Midvale, 801-748-1300.
epiccasualdining.com EGM
George This do-over of Finca has made the space more intimate and the menu more eclectic. Food ranges from raw bar to burgers and a smattering of small plates, some left over from the place’s past incarnation. 337 W. 200 South, SLC, 801-4870699. georgeslc.com EM Hub & Spoke Diner Scott Evans’ (Pago, Finca) diner serves the traditional three a day with an untraditional inventiveness applied to traditional recipes. Like, artisanal grilled cheese with spiked milkshakes. And mac and cheese made with spaetzle. Breakfast is king here–expect a line. 1291 S. 1100 East, SLC, 801-487-0698. hubandspokediner.com EGM
beer and wine. 68 W. 3900 South, SLC, 801266-4322. leftforkgrill.ipower.com EGL
Little America Coffee Shop Little America has been the favorite gathering place for generations of native Salt Lakers. Weekdays, you’ll find the city power players breakfasting in the coffee shop. 500 S. Main Street, SLC, 801-596-5704. saltlake. littleamerica.com EGL–M Lucky H Bar & Grille The classic hotel
Left Fork Grill Every booth comes with
restaurant is aimed at its clientele—generations of guests. Thus, the new menu is full of familiar dishes. Chef Bernard Gotz knows his diners and besides offering new items like housemade gravlax and escargots, the menu includes plenty of meat and potatoes. Little America Hotel, 500 S. Main St., SLC, 801-596-5700. littleamerica.com EGL–N
its own dedicated pie shelf. Because no matter what you’re eating—liver and onions, raspberry pancakes, meatloaf or a reuben—you’ll want to save room for pie. Tip: Order your favorite pie first, in case they run out. Now serving
Martine One of downtown’s most charming spaces, the atmosphere here trumps City Creek’s new eateries. A new executive chef and chef de cuisine have updated the
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on the table menu to great effect. 22 E. 100 South, SLC, 801-363-9328. martinecafe.com EN
Meditrina Meditrina has secured its place as a great spot for wine and apps, wine and supper or wine and a late-night snack. And their Wine Socials are a habit for convivial types. Check meditrinaslc. com for the schedule. 165 W. 900 South, SLC, 801-485-2055. meditrinaslc.com EGLM
Moochie’s This itty-bitty eatery/takeout joint is the place to go for authentic cheeses teaks made with thinly sliced steak and griddled onions glued together with good ol’ American cheese and wrapped in a big, soft so-called French roll. 232 E. 800 South, SLC, 801-596-1350; 7725 S. State St., Midvale, 801-562-1500. moochiesmeatballs.com GL
NOMAD LIVES UP TO ITS NAME Look for a a new venture from Chef Soelberg—he’s taking over the old Eggs in the City space.
Nomad Eatery Obviously, you need to keep the Nomad in mind when you’re near the airport, but it’s worth the drive anyway. Justin Soelberg has cheffed in a lot of local kitchens; his menu here reflects his faves. It’s fast and casual, but it’s also chefdriven—pizzas and burgers and salads, but all carefully crafted. Be sure to order one of the ice cream desserts from Normal. 2110 W. North Temple, SLC, 801-938-9629. nomad-eatery.com EGM Oasis Cafe Oasis has a New Age vibe, but the food’s only agenda is taste. Lots of veg options, but meat, too. The German pancakes are wonderful, but its evening menu suits the space—being both imaginative and refreshing. 151 S. 500 East, SLC, 801-322-0404. oasiscafeslc.com EGL–M One-0-Eight Chef-owner James Dumas, formerly chef at High West, has opened his own place in the former Sea Salt location, one of the most delightful venues in town, especially in nice weather. Salads and vegetables stand out because of their extreme freshness—Dumas buys from Frog Bench Farms in the city. Pizza is also a standout. 1709 E. 1300 South, 801-9068101. EGL–N Oquirrh Little and original chef-owned bistro offers a menu of inventive and delicious dishes—whole curried lamb leg, chicken confit pot pie, milk-braised potatoes—it’s all excellent. 368 E. 100 South, 801-359-0426. oquirrhslc.com EGL–N
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Pig and a Jelly Jar Terrific breakfasts, but southern-seasoned suppers are good, too. Great chicken and waffles, local eggs, and other breakfasts are served all day, with homestyle additions at lunch and supper on Thursdays through Sundays. 401 E. 900 South, SLC, 385-202-7366. 227 25th St., Ogden, 801-605-8400. 1968 E. Murray Holladay Rd. Holladay, 385-695-5148. pigandajellyjar.com GM Porch A chef-owned restaurant in the new urban community of Daybreak, this sleek little cafe was conceived by Meditrina owner Jen Gilroy and focuses on locallysourced cuisine with southern touches. 11274 Kestrel Rise Road, Bldg. C, South Jordan, 801-679-1066. porchutah.com EGM
Porcupine Pub and Grille With 24 beers on tap available for only $2 every Tuesday, Porcupine has practically created its own holiday. Chicken noodle soup has homemade noodles and lots of chicken. Burgers and chile verde burritos are good, too. 3698 E. Fort Union Blvd., SLC, 801942-5555. 258 S. 1300 East, 801-582-5555, SLC. porcupinepub.com EGM
Red Butte Café This neighborhood place emphasizes Southwestern flavors and premium beers. Try the portobello with mozzarella and caramelized onions or beef with ancho jus. 1414 S. Foothill Blvd., SLC, 801-581-9498. theredbuttecafe.com EGL Restaurants at Temple Square There are four restaurants here: Little Nauvoo Café (801-539-3346) serves breakfast, lunch and dinner; Lion House Pantry (801-5393257) serves lunch and dinner buffet-style (it’s famous for the hot rolls, a Thanksgiving tradition in many Salt Lake households); The Garden (801-539-3170) serves lunch and dinner (don’t miss the fried dill pickles); and The Roof (801-539-1911), a finer dining option eye-to-eye with Moroni on top of the Temple, which is open for dinner with a mammoth dessert buffet. 15 E. South Temple, SLC. templesquare. com/dining/ GLM
Roots Café A charming little daytime cafe in Millcreek with a wholesome granola vibe. 3474 S. 2300 East, East Millcreek, 801-277-6499. rootscafeslc.com EGLL
Ruth’s Diner The original funky trolley car is almost buried by the beer garden in fine weather, but Ruth’s still serves up diner food in a low-key setting, and the patio is one of the best. Collegiate fare like burgers, BLTs and enchiladas in big portions rule here. The giant biscuits come with every meal, and the chocolate pudding should. 2100 Emigration Canyon, SLC, 801-582-5807. ruthsdiner.com ELM
Rye The food rocks at this hip new version of a diner connected to Urban Lounge. At breakfast (which lasts until 2 p.m.), the soft scrambles or the waffles with whiskey syrup are called for. At lunch try the shoyu fried chicken, the street dumplings and the lettuce wraps, which can make a meal or a nosh. Call to confirm hours—right now it’s open for weekend dinners. 239 S. 500 East, SLC, 801-364-4655. ryeslc.com EGLL
Silver Fork Lodge Silver Fork’s kitchen handles three daily meals beautifully. Try pancakes made with a 50-year-old sourdough starter. Don’t miss the smoked trout and brie appetizer. No more corkage fees, so bring your own. 11332 E. Big Cottonwood Canyon, Brighton, 801-533-9977. silverforklodge.com EGL–M Stella Grill A cool little arts-and-craftsstyle café, Stella is balanced between trendy and tried-and-true. The careful cooking comes with moderate prices. Great for lunch. 4291 S. 900 East, SLC, 801-2880051. stellagrill.com EGL–M Tiburon Servings at Tiburon are large and rich: elk tenderloin was enriched with mushrooms and demi-glace; a big, creamy wedge of St. Andre came with pork belly. In summer, tomatoes come from the garden. 8256 S. 700 East, Sandy, 801-255-1200. tiburonfinedining.com EGLLL
Traditions Plan your meal knowing there will be pie at the end of it. Then snack on pigs-in-blankets (sausage from artisan butcher Beltex) and funeral potatoes. No, really. Entrees—fried chicken, braised pork, chicken and dumplings—are equally homey but novel—they call it “comfortable” food. Then, pie. 501 E. 900 South, SLC, 385-202-7167. traditionslc.com EGLL
cuisineunlimited.com
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Above: Cheek + Belly Right: Alaskan Halibut
REVISIT
Back to Bambara
*The usual fishy confusion rules here. Hamachi is called Japanese amberjack. It’s also called yellowtail,sometimes yellowtail tuna (though it’s a whole different fish family) and it’s a favorite winter sushi fish in Japan. **Saba is grape must (crushed grapes with seeds and stems) cooked over fire, reduced and filtered. It has a unique, intensely fruity flavor with a touch of acid and a lot of complexity. Cooking grape must is the first step in making balsamic vinegar.
IF YOU GO
ADDRESS: 202 S. Main St., SLC WEB: bambaraslc.com PHONE: 801-363-5151 ENTREES: $$-$$$
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ne of the hardest things to do as a restaurant writer is to circle back. There are so many new places that it’s hard to check in with restaurants you’ve already visited. But it’s necessary, because a restaurant is always a moving target—chefs come and go, owners come and go, concepts come and go. Usually (not always; hello, George!) the name remains the same. So I was happy to be invited to taste Chef Nathan Powers’ new menu at Bambara. A decade or so ago, Bambara had a swinging door for chefs— they came and went with dizzying regularity. But Powers has been there a decade or more and now he and the restaurant seem synonymous. Remember, Powers has worked for some of the best in big markets. He’s a savvy restaurateur and an
accomplished chef—a rare combination. And our taste was a feast. Of course, the blue cheese potato chips and the silky corn bisque with Jonah crab are still available. “Every chef learns there are some things you can never cycle off the menu,” says Powers. But a good chef’s menu changes with the seasons. And a good chef gets bored. New items on Bambara’s winter menu include seared rare hamachi* a rich fish cooked like tuna and served over asparagus puree with lemon curd and scallion oil. Grilled quail cuddled around a blob of soft burrata. Watercress gave the dish some bite and dots of saba** syrup, a savory sweetness. “Elk is always one of the best-sellers on the menu,” Powers says. “So I try to keep it there and change the
preparation according to the season. In the version we tasted, rare rounds of loin were lent creamy-rich mouthfeel by a sweet corn “risotto,” then brightened with barely bitter baby kale while a Luxardo cherry barbecue sauce lent some sweetness. The whole plate was topped with spears of tempurafried asparagus. So good. The halibut in a saffron-tinged tomato bath was also a new preparation. Chorizo and clams provided textural contrast. You’re seeing a pattern here—the plates are carefully balanced, but with some separation of ingredients so how you eat it determines the flavor. Our server, Chrit, has been at Bambara for years. He steered us towards a bottle of Joseph Phelps to bridge the elk and the halibut: perfection.
PHOTOS COURTESY BAMBARA
Chef Powers keeps up the delicious work.
Zest Kitchen & Bar How 21st century can you get? Zest’s focus is on vegan, vegetarian and gluten-free food (as locally sourced as possible) combined with a creative cocktail list. Forget the notion that hard liquor calls for heavy food—Zest’s portobello dinner with lemon risotto has as much heft as a flank steak. Try it with one of their fruit and veg-based cocktails. And Zest’s late hours menu is a boon in a town that goes dark early. 275 S. 200 West, SLC, 801-433-0589. zestslc.com EGLL
authentic mexican food & cantina celebrating 22 years
BAKERIES Amour Cafe The jammin’ duo John and Casee Francis have found a new home for their Amour Fruit Spreads business and sharing the space with a brightly-lighted cafe and plenty of fresh pastry. Plus, gelato. 1329 S. 500 East, SLC, 801-467-2947. amourslc.com GL Baking Hive Tucked behind Provisions restaurant, this homespun bakery uses real butter and cream from real cows, and they can make pretty anything involving flour and an oven. Classes allow kids to ice and decorate their own cakes and they offer gluten-free options too. 3362 S. 2300 East, East Millcreek, 801-419-0187. bakinghive. com GL
since since1997 1997 20 1 7
east the salt 165 Sjust West Temple SLC •of 801.533.8900 • Validated Parking
Just east of the Salt Palace, Below Benihana
palace, below benihana
Bagel Project “Real” bagels are the whole story here, made by a homesick East Coaster. Of course, there’s no New York water to make them with, but other than that, these are as authentic as SLC can get. 779 S. 500 East, SLC, 801-906-0698. bagelproject.com GL
Biscott’s An Anglo-Indian teahouse, Lavanya Mahate’s (Saffron Valley) latest eatery draws from intertwined cultures, serving tea and chai, English treats and French pastries with a hint of subcontinental spice. 1098 W. Jordan Pkwy., South Jordan, 801-890-0659. biscotts.com GL
Carlucci’s Bakery Pastries and a few hot dishes make this a fave morning stop. For lunch, try the herbed goat cheese on a chewy baguette. 314 W. 300 South, SLC, 801-366-4484. carluccisbakery.com GL
City Cakes & Cafe Gluten-free that is so good you’ll never miss it. Or the dairy—City Cakes has vegan goodies, too.
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on the table And epic vegan mac n’ chezah. 1860 S. 300 West, SLC, 801-359-2239. 192 E. 12300 South, Draper, 801-572-5500. citycakescafe.com GL
Eva’s Boulangerie A smart Frenchstyle cafe and bakery in the heart of downtown. Different bakers are behind the patisserie and the boulangerie, meaning sweet and daily breads get the attention they deserve. Go for classics like onion soup and croque monsieur, but don’t ignore other specials and always leave with at least one loaf of bread. 155 S. Main St., SLC, 801-359-8447. evasbakeryslc.com GL
Fillings & Emulsions This little Westside bakery is worth finding—its unusual pastries find their way into many of Salt Lake’s fine restaurants. Pastry Chef Adelberto Diaz combines his classical French training with the tropical flavors of his homeland. The results are startlingly good and different. 1475 S. Main St., SLC, 385229-4228. fillingsandemulsions.com GL
BEYOND PASTRY Note to self: Besides pastry, Alberto Diaz makes traditional Cuban meat pies.
Gourmandise This downtown mainstay has cheesecakes, cannoli, napoleons, pies, cookies, muffins and flaky croissants. And don’t forget breads and rolls to take home. 250 S. 300 East, SLC, 801-328-3330. gourmandisethebakery.com GL
Velvet. 3939 S. Highland Dr., SLC, 801-2748300. socupcake.com GL
Tulie Bakery You can get a little spiritual about pastries this good on a Sunday morning, but at Tulie you can be just as uplifted by a Wednesday lunch. 863 E. 700 South, SLC, 801-883-9741. tuilebakery. com GL
Vosen’s Bread Paradise This German-style bakery’s cases are full of Eifelbrot, Schwarzbrot, Krustenbrot and lots of other Brots as well as sweet pastries and fantastic Berliners. 328 W. 200 South, SLC, 801-322-2424. vosen.com GL
BARBECUE & SOUTHERN FOOD Pat’s Barbecue One of Salt Lake City’s best, Pat’s brisket, pork and ribs deserve the spotlight but sides are notable here, too. Don’t miss “Burnt End Fridays.” 155 E. Commonwealth, SLC, 801-484-5963. patsbbq.com EGL R and R A brick-and-mortar restaurant owned by brothers Rod and Roger Livingston, winners on the competitive barbecue circuit. Ribs and brisket star, but fried okra almost steals the show. 307 W. 600 South, SLC, 801-364-0443. randrbbq.com GL–M
La Bonne Vie Cuter than a cupcake,
The SugarHouse Barbecue Company This place is a winner for pulled
Grand America’s pastry shop has all the charm of Paris. The pretty windows alone are worth a visit. 555 S. Main St., SLC, 800621-4505. grandamerica.com GL
pork, Texas brisket or Memphis ribs. Plus killer sides, like Greek potatoes. 880 E. 2100 South, SLC, 801-463-4800. sugarhousebbq.com GM
Les Madeleines The kouign aman still reigns supreme among Salt Lake City pastries, but with a hot breakfast menu and lunch options, Les Mad is more than a great bakery. 216 E. 500 South, SLC, 801355-2294. lesmadeleines.com GL
Mrs. Backer’s Pastry Shop A Salt Lake tradition, Mrs. Backer’s is a butter cream fantasy. Fantastic colors, explosions of flowers, most keyed to the current holiday created from American-style butter cream icing, fill this old-fashioned shop. 434 E. South Temple, SLC, 801-532-2022. mrsbackers.com GL
So Cupcake Choose a mini or a full cake, mix and match cakes and icings, or try a house creation, like Hanky Panky Red
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BAR GRUB & BREWPUBS Avenues Proper Publick House It’s a restaurant and brewpub, with the emphasis on small plates and late hours. The food is inventive, the beer is good and—big plus— they serve cocktails as well as brew at this neighborhood hot spot. 376 8th Ave., SLC, 385-227-8628. avenuesproper.com EGM Bohemian Brewery & Grill Bohemian keeps a firm connection to its cultural history—so to go with the wonderful Czech beer, you can nosh on potato pancakes, pork chops and goulash. There’s also plenty of American beer fare. 94 E. Fort Union Blvd., Midvale, 801-566-5474. bohemianbrewery.com EGM
Level Crossing Brewery Going out to grab a beer with your closest circle,
your homies, just look under the water tower in South Salt Lake. Crafted beers come with a light fare menu offering a vegan wrap, BLT or classic Italian hoagie. 2496 West Temple, SLC, 385-2705752. levelcrossingbrewing.com EGM
The Pub’s Desert Edge Brewery Good pub fare and freshly brewed beer make this a hot spot for shoppers, the business crowd and ski bums. 273 Trolley Square, SLC, 801-521-8917. desertedgebrewery.com EGM
The Red Rock Brewing Company Red Rock proves the pleasure of beer on its own and as a complement to pizzas, rotisserie chicken and chile polenta. Not to mention brunch. Also in the Fashion Place Mall. 254 S. 200 West, SLC, 801-521-7446. redrockbrewing.com EGM
HAofLL
Squatters Pub Brewery
FA M E One of the “greenest” restau-
rants in town, Squatters brews award-winning beers and pairs them with everything from wings to ahi tacos. 147 W. Broadway, SLC, 801-363-2739. squatters. com EGLM
Wasatch Brew Pub Part of the same mega “boutique” group that produces Squatters and Wasatch beers and runs the pubs in Salt Lake City and Park City with those names, this extension is everything you expect a brewpub to be—hearty food, convivial atmosphere, lots of beer and a great late-ish option. 2110 S. Highland Dr., SLC, 801-783-1127. wasatchbrewpub.com EGLM
BREAKFAST/LUNCH ONLY The Daily Chef Ryan Lowder’s only non-Copper restaurant (Onion, Commons, Kitchen) is open all day for breakfast, lunch and noshing. Call in and pick up lunch, stop in and linger over Stumptown coffee, take some pastries to go and don’t miss the biscuits. 222 Main St., SLC, 385-322-1270. thedailyslc.com GL
The Dayroom In the same space as Em’s Cafe, The Dayroom only serves breakfast and lunch, with a limited afternoon snack menu before Em’s opens in the evening. This is not like any other breakfast or brunch in town. 271 Center St., SLC, 801596-0566. dayroomandems.com GLE
Eggs in the City On the weekends, this place is packed with hipsters whose large dogs wait pantingly outside. It’s a good place to go solo, and the menu runs from healthy wraps to Eggs Florentine. 1675 E. 1300 South, SLC, 801-581-0809. eggsinthecityslc.com GM
SINCE 1952
Finn’s The Scandinavian vibe comes from the heritage of owner Finn Gurholt. At lunch, try the Nordic sandwiches, but Finn’s is most famous for breakfast (best pancakes in town), served until the doors close at 2:30 p.m. 1624 S. 1100 East, SLC, 801-467-4000. finnscafe.net GM Millcreek Café & Egg Works This spiffy neighborhood place is open for lunch, but breakfast is the game. Items like a chile verde–smothered breakfast wrap and the pancakes offer serious sustenance. 3084 E. 3300 South, SLC, 801-485-1134. millcreekcafeandeggworks.com GL
BURGERS, SANDWICHES, DELIS
SCANDINAVIAN & AMERICAN CUISINE Serving breakfast and lunch • Open 7 days a week 7:30 to 2:30 Located between Resorts and Airport • 1624 S. 1100 East, SLC
Feldman’s Deli Finally, SLC has a
Jewish deli worthy of the name. Stop by for your hot pastrami fix or to satisfy your latke craving or your yen for knishes. 2005 E. 2700 South, SLC, 801-906-0369. feldmansdeli.com GL
J Dawgs All big and all natural, whether
you choose Polish or all-beef. The buns are made fresh daily. The special sauce is a family recipe. Opt for peppers, onions, sauerkraut and/or pickles, add a bag of chips; pour yourself a soft drink and that’s the full meal here, unless you want a t-shirt. 341 Main St,, SLC, 801-438-6111. jdawgs. com GL
Pretty Bird Chicken Chef Viet Pham’s long-awaited Nashville hot chicken spot is open, but chances are you’ll still have to wait. There is really only one thing on the menu—spicy fried chicken in various degrees of heat, on a bun or on a plate. Go early—Pretty Bird closes when the kitchen runs out of chicken. Buy a chicken quarter to take home. 145 S. Regent St., SLC. prettybirdchicken.com EGL
Proper Burger and Proper Brewing
Sibling to Avenues Proper, the new place has expanded brewing and burger capacity, two big shared patios. And ski-ball. 865 Main St., 801-906-8607. properburgerslc. com EGM
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on the table Publik Kitchen Same ownership as
The Rose Establishment The Rose
Publik coffee, only the Kitchen has a more extensive menu. Don’t miss the BLT, made with tomato jam. 931 E. 900 South, SLC, 385-229-4205. publikcoffee.com GL
is a place for conversation as much as coffee–especially on Sunday mornings. Coffee is from Four Barrel Coffee Roasters. 235 S. 400 West, SLC, 801-990-6270. theroseestb. com GL
Siegfried’s The only German deli in town is packed with customers ordering bratwurst, wiener schnitzel, sauerkraut and spaetzle. 20 W. 200 South, SLC, 801-3553891. siegfriedsdelicatessen.com EGL
Tonyburgers This home-grown burger house serves fresh-ground beef, toasted buns, twice-fried potatoes and milkshakes made with real scoops of ice cream. No pastrami in sight. 613 E. 400 South, SLC, 801-410-0531. tonyburgers.com GL
COFFEE Caffe d’Bolla John Piquet is a coffee wizard—a cup of his specially roasted siphon brews is like no other cup of coffee in the state. His wife, Yiching, is an excellent baker. 249 E. 400 South, SLC, 801-3551398. caffedbolla.com GL
La Barba Owned by locally owned coffee roasters—a favorite with many local restaurants—this little cafe off of Finca serves coffee, tea, chocolate, churros and other pastries. 327 W. 200 South, SLC, 801-4570699. labarbacoffee.com GL
Campos Coffee Roastery & Kitchen An Australian coffee bar famous for its brews, this particular outpost has the added amenity of a kitchen and rooftop seating in season. 228 S. Edison St., SLC, 801-953-1512. us.camposcoffee.com GL
Publik A cool coffeehouse serving the
JAVA BURGER At Campos Coffee, you can order a burger—with fries— with your cup of fair trade coffee. That’s America!
latest in great coffee; an old-school java joint made for long conversations; a neocafe where you can park with your laptop and get some solo work done. Publik serves a multitude of coffee-fueled purposes. 975 S. Temple, SLC, 801-355-3161; 638 Park Ave., Park City, 435-200-8693. publikcoffee.com GL
Salt Lake Roasting Company At SLC’s original coffee shop, owner John Bolton buys and roasts the better-thanfair-trade beans. 820 E. 400 South, SLC, 801-748-4887. roasting.com GL
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CENTRAL & SOUTH AMERICAN Braza Grill Meat, meat and more meat is the order of the day at this Brazilian-style churrascaria buffet. 5927 S. State St., Murray, 801-506-7788. brazagrillutah.com GM Del Mar Al Lago A gem from Peru—the best selection of cebicha in town, plus other probably unexplored culinary territory deliciously mapped by this kitchen. 310 Bugatti Drive, SLC, 801-467-2890. EGM Rodizio Grill The salad bar offers plenty to eat, but the best bang for the buck is the Full Rodizio, a selection of meats—turkey, chicken, beef, pork, seafood and more—plus vegetables and pineapple, brought to your table until you cry “uncle.” 600 S. 700 East, SLC, 801-220-0500. rodiziogrill.com EGM Texas de Brazil The Brazilian-style churrascaria offers all-you-can-eat grilled meat, carved tableside and complemented by a mammoth salad bar. City Creek Center, 50 S. Main St., SLC, 801-232-8070. texasdebrazil.com EGN
CHINESE & PAN-ASIAN Asian Star The menu is not frighteningly authentic or disturbingly Americanized. Dishes are chef-driven, and Chef James seems most comfortable in the melting pot. 7588 S. Union Park Ave., Midvale, 801-5668838. asianstarrestaurant.com ELL Boba World This mom-and-pop place is short on chic, but the food on the plate provides all the ambiance you need. Try the scallion pancakes, try the Shanghai Fat Noodles, heck, try the kung pao chicken. It’s all good. 512 W. 750 South, Woods Cross, 801-2983626. bobaworld.blogspot.com GL–M
CY Noodle House Another Chinatown eatery, CY features an open kitchen and a choose-your-own menu that allows you to make up your own combination. No liquor license—indulge instead in a boba
smoothie. 3370 State St., SLC, 801-4882777. cynoodleshouseut.com GM
Ginger Street A new venture from Chef Tyler Stokes, who owns Provisions. Ginger Street indulges Stokes’ passion for Southeast Asian food, at the same time providing an alternative for downtown diners. The fast-casual concept offers interpretations of classic dishes like dan-dan noodles and dumplings. 224 S. State St., SLC., 385-4774975. gingerstreet.com GM
Hong Kong Tea House & Restaurant Authentic, pristine and slightly weird is what we look for in Chinese food. Tea House does honorable renditions of favorites, but it is a rewarding place to go explore. 565 W. 200 South, SLC, 801-5317010. hongkongteahouse.yolasite.com GM
J. Wong’s Asian Bistro Drawing from their Thai and Chinese heritage, J. Wong’s menu allows you to choose either. Lunch—Chinese or Thai—isn’t a good deal. It’s a great deal. Don’t miss the ginger whole fish or the Gunpowder cocktail. Call ahead for authentic Peking duck. 163 W. 200 South, SLC, 801-350-0888. jwongs. com EGM
FRENCH/EUROPEAN Bruges Waffle and Frites The original tiny shop turns out waffles made with pearl sugar, topped with fruit, whipped cream or chocolate. Plus frites, Belgian beef stew and a gargantuan sandwich called a mitraillette (or submachine gun) featuring merguez made by Morgan Valley lamb. The slightly larger Sugar House cafe has a bigger menu. 336 W. Broadway, SLC, 801-363-4444; 2314 S. Highland Dr., 801-486-9999; 541 E. 12300 South, Draper, 801-251-0152. brugeswaffles.com GL
Café Madrid Authentic dishes like garlic soup share the menu with port-sauced lamb shank. Service is courteous and friendly at this family-owned spot. 5244 S. Highland Dr., Holladay, 801-273-0837. cafemadrid.net EGM Franck’s Founding chef Franck Peissel’s influence can still be tasted—personal interpretations of continental classics. Some, like the meatloaf, are perennials, but mostly the menu changes according to season and the current chef’s whim. 6263
S. Holladay Blvd., SLC, 801-274-6264. francksfood.com EGN
Monsieur Crepe This French-style creperie offering both savory—Brie, prosciutto, tomato—and sweet—whipped cream, fruit, chocolate—fillings. The famous Gallic pancake evolved from a food truck into a charming cafe with a very pretty patio. 1617 S. 900 East, SLC, 801-259-5843. monsieurcrepe.com GM
Trestle Tavern Another concept from Scott Evans, owner of Pago, Finca, Hub & Spoke, etc., this restaurant in the former Fresco space, is built around Eastern European food—pierogi, cabbage rolls, pretzels, along with the fine beer, wine and spirits list you can count on at all Evans’ restaurants. 1513 S. 1500 East, SLC, 801532-3372. trestletavern.com EGM
INDIAN Bombay House This biryani mainstay is sublimely satisfying, from the wisecracking Sikh host to the friendly server, from the vegetarian entrees to the tandoorgrilled delights. No wonder it’s been Salt Lake’s favorite subcontinental restaurant for 20 years. 2731 E. Parley’s Way, SLC, 801-581-0222; 463 N. University Ave., Provo, 801-373-6677; 7726 Campus View Dr., West Jordan, 801-282-0777. bombayhouse.com EGM–N
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Curry in a Hurry The Nisar family’s restaurant is tiny, but fast service and fair prices make this a great take-out spot. But if you opt to dine in, there’s always a Bollywood film on the telly. 2020 S. State St., SLC, 801-467-4137. ilovecurryinahurry. com GL Himalayan Kitchen SLC’s
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premier Indian-Nepalese restaurant features original art, imported copper serving utensils and an everexpanding menu. Start the meal with momos, fat little dumplings like pot stickers. All the tandoor dishes are good, but Himalayan food is rare, so go for the quanty masala, a stew made of nine different beans. 360 S. State St., SLC, 801-328-2077. himalayankitchen.com EGM WAR
Kathmandu Try the Nepalese specialties, including spicy pickles to set off the
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on the table tandoor-roasted meats. Both goat and sami, a kibbeh-like mixture of ground lamb and lentils, are available in several styles. 3142 S. Highland Dr., SLC, 801-466-3504. thekathmandu.net EGM
tonwood, the brunch is especially popular. Be sure to check out the new big flavor small plates menu. 680 S. 900 East, SLC, 801-533-TRIO; 6405 S. 3000 East, Cottonwood, 801-944-8476. triodining.com EGM
Royal India Northern Indian tikka masalas and Southern Indian dosas allow diners to enjoy the full range of Indian cuisine. 10263 S. 1300 East, Sandy, 801-572-6123; 55 N. Main St., Bountiful, 801-292-1835. royalindiautah.com EGL–M
Caffé Molise and Caffé Molise BTG This perennial restaurant favorite
Saffron Valley East India Cafe Lavanya Mahate has imported her style of Indian cooking from South Jordan to SLC. Besides terrific lunch and dinner menus, East Indian Cafe offers regular celebrations of specialties like Indian street food or kebabs. Stay tuned. 26 East St., SLC, 801203-3325. saffronvalley.com EGM–N
Saffron Valley Highlighting South Indian street food, one of the glories of subcontinental cuisine, Lavanya Mahate’s restaurant is a cultural as well as culinary center, offering cooking classes, specialty groceries and celebration as well as great food. 1098 W. South Jordan Parkway, South Jordan, 801-438-4823. saffronvalley. com GL–M
Saffron Valley Yet another iteration of Lavanya Mahate’s vision of her homeland, this Saffron Valley location combines the best of her other three restaurants: Indian street foods, classic Indian and the IndianAnglo bakery. 479 E. 2100 South, SLC, 801-203-3754. saffronvalley.com GL–M
TWO WORDS: Rabbit Pasta. One of the most delicious dishes in town. Or, order the pizza.
Tandoor Indian Grill Delicious salmon tandoori, sizzling on a plate with onions and peppers like fajitas, is mysteriously not overcooked. Friendly service. 733 E. 3300 South, SLC, 801-486-4542. tandoorindiangrill.com EGL–M
ITALIAN & PIZZA Arella’s Chic pizza in Bountiful. Arella’s pies appeal to pizza purists, traditionalists and adventurers, with wood-fired crusts and toppings that range from pear to jalapeño. 535 W. 400 North, Bountiful, 801294-8800. arellapizzeria.com EGL Café Trio Pizzas from the wood-fired brick oven are wonderful. One of the city’s premier and perennial lunch spots; in Cot-
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has moved to fabulous new digs. We’ll miss the awesome downtown patio, but the old Eagle building promises outdoor dining space and so much more. Sibling wine bar BTG is under the same roof. Call for hours. 404 S. West Temple, SLC, 801-364-8833. caffemolise.com EGM
Cannella’s Downtown’s long-time essential red-sauce Italian shop, with friendly owners, familiar food and and fun, casual atmosphere. And you could call it fusion, too: The Nica Joe burger is a terrific, slightly Italianized version of the American classic.. 204 E. 500 South, SLC, 801-355-8518. cannellas.com EGL–M
Caputo’s Market and Deli A great selection of olive oils, imported pastas, salamis and house-aged cheeses, including one of the largest selections of fine chocolate in the country. The deli menu doesn’t reflect the market, but is a reliable source for meatball sandwiches and such. 314 W. 300 South, SLC, 801-531-8669; 1516 S. 1500 East, SLC, 801-486-6615. caputos.com EGL
Cucina Toscana This longtime favorite turns out Italian classics like veal scaloppine, carbonara and a risotto of the day in a chic setting. A tiny cup of complimentary hot chocolate ends the meal. 282 S. 300 West., SLC, 801-328-3463. toscanaslc. com EGM–N
Este Pizza Try the “pink” pizza, topped with ricotta and marinara. Vegan cheese is available, and there’s microbrew on tap. 2148 S. 900 East, SLC, 801-485-3699; 156 E. 200 South, SLC, 801-363-2366. estepizzaco.com EGL
Fireside on Regent Chef Michael Richey put his money where your mouth is and invested in a state of the art Valoriani pizza oven, but the menu doesn’t stop at the stupendous pies. Inventive pastas, salads and other dishes come and go on the menu at this cool little place behind the Eccles Theater. Don’t miss it. 126 S. Regent St., 801-359-4011. firesideonregent.com
Mia Sicilia A family-run restaurant with a huge number of fans who love the food’s hearty and approachable style, friendly service and touches of show biz—famous for its pasta carbonara, prepared in a wheel of Parmesan. 4536 Highland Dr., Millcreek, 801-274-0223. siciliamiautah.com GEL–M
Nuch’s Pizzeria A New York–sized eatery (meaning tiny) offers big flavor via specialty pastas and wonderful bubbly crusted pizzas. Ricotta is made in house. 2819 S. 2300 East, SLC, 801-484-0448. nuchs-pizzeria-and-restaurant.com EGL
Per Noi A little chef-owned, red sauce Italian spot catering to its neighborhood. Expect casual, your-hands-on service, hope they have enough glasses to accommodate the wine you bring, and order the spinach ravioli. 3005 S. Highland Dr., SLC, 801486-3333. pernoitrattoria.com GL The Pie Pizzeria Students can live, think and even thrive on a diet of pizza, beer and soft drinks, and The Pie is the quintessential college pizzeria. (There are other locations.) 1320 E. 200 South, SLC, 801-582-0193. thepie.com EL
Pizzeria Limone The signature pie at this local chain features thinly sliced lemons. Service is cafeteria-style, meaning fast, and the pizza, salads and gelato are remarkably good. 613 E. 400 South; 1380 E. Fort Union Blvd., SLC, 801-733-9305. pizzerialimone.com EGL Pizza Nono Small, kick-started pizzeria in 9th and 9th neighborhood has a limited but carefully sourced menu, a small but good list of wine and beer and an overflowing feeling of hospitality. 925 E. 900 South, SLC, 385-444-3530. pizzanono-slc.com EGL Salt Lake Pizza & Pasta And sandwiches and burgers and steak and fish. The menu here has expanded far beyond its name. 1061 E. 2100 South, SLC, 801-4841804. saltlakepizzaandpasta.com EGL–M
Settebello Pizzeria Every Neapolitanstyle pie here is hand-shaped by a pizza artisan and baked in a wood-fired oven. And they make great gelato right next door. 260 S. 200 West, SLC, 801-322-3556. settebello.net GEL–M
Sicilia Mia The third in a trio of family-
TOP 10
owned restaurants. They all recall Italian food of yesteryear. 4536 S. Highland Dr., Millcreek, 801-274-0223. siciliamiautah. com EGM–N
Siragusa’s Taste of Italy Another strip mall mom-and-pop find, the two dishes to look out for are sweet potato gnocchi and osso buco made with pork. 4115 Redwood Rd., SLC, 801-268-1520. siragusas.com GEL–M
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Stanza Chef Jonathon LeBlanc, brings a happy flair to this Italianesque restaurant. And Amber Billingsley is making the desserts. Va tutto bene! 464 E. 300 South, SLC, 801-746-4441. stanzaslc.com EGM–N Stoneground Italian
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The longtime pizza joint has blossomed into a fullscale Italian restaurant with chef Justin Shifflet in the kitchen making authentic sauces and fresh pasta. An appealing upstairs deck and a full craft bar complete the successful transformation. Oh yeah, they still serve pizza. 249 E. 400 South, SLC, 801-364-1368. stonegrounditalian.com EGL–M WAR
Tuscany This restaurant’s faux-Tuscan kitsch is mellowing into retro charm, though the glass chandelier is a bit nervewracking. The double-cut pork chop is classic, and so is the chocolate cake. 2832 E. 6200 South, 801-274-0448. tuscanyslc. com EGN
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Valter’s Osteria Valter Nassi’s restaurant overflows with his effervescent personality. The dining room is set up so Valter can be everywhere at once. New delights and old favorites include a number of tableside dishes. 173 W. Broadway, SLC, 801-521-4563. valtersosteria.com EGN Veneto Ristorante This
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small place, owned by Marco and Amy Stevanoni, strives to focus on one of the many regional cuisines we lump under the word “Italian.” Hence the name; and forget what you think you know about Italian food except the word “delizioso.” 370 E. 900 South, SLC, 801-3590708. venetoslc.com EGN WAR
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on the table JAPANESE
Manoli’s Manoli and Katrina Katsanevas
features classic sushi, plus trendy combos. Try the Asian “tapas.” Then there’s the beer bar side of things, which accounts for the peanuts. 22 E. 100 South, SLC, 801-5968600. EM
have created a fresh modern approach to Greek food. Stylish small plates full of Greek flavors include Butternut-squash-filled tyropita, smoked feta in piquillo peppers and a stellar roast chicken. 402 E. 900 South, SLC, 801-532-3760. manolison9th.com EGML
Ichiban Sushi Sushi with a twist—like
Tosh’s Ramen Chef Tosh Sekikawa is
light salads and panini, some tapas, a list of wines and beers. 57 W. Main St., SLC, 801364-1401. theolivebistro.vpweb EGM
the spicy Funky Charlie Roll, tuna and wasabi filled, then fried. 336 S. 400 East, SLC, 801-532-7522. EGM
Kaze Small and stylish, this downtown sushi bar has plenty to offer besides absolutely fresh fish and inventive combinations. Food is beautifully presented and especially for a small place the variety is impressive. A sake menu is taking shape and Kaze is open until midnight. 65. E. Broadway, SLC, 800-800-6768. kazesushiut.com EGM
Koko Kitchen This small, family-run restaurant is a genuine, low-key noodle shop. The ramen is outstanding. 702 S. 300 East, SLC, 801-364-4888. GL
Kobe Japanese Restaurant This is Mike’s place—Mike Fukumitsu, once at Kyoto, is the personality behind the sushi bar and the driving spirit in the restaurant. Perfectly fresh fish keeps a horde of regulars returning. 3947 Wasatch Blvd., SLC, 802-277-2928. facebook.com/KobeJapaneseRestaurant EGM
Kyoto The service is friendly, the sushi is fresh, the tempura is amazingly light, and the prices are reasonable. Servings are occidentally large, and service is impeccable. 1080 E. 1300 South, SLC, 801-487-3525. kyotoslc.com EM
As of this winter, you can eat your Lebanese feast south of Salt Lake. Go to saltlakemagazine.com for info.
Takashi Takashi Gibo
FA M E earned his acclaim by buying the freshest fish and serving it in politely eye-popping style. Check the chalkboard for specials like Thai mackerel, fatty tuna or spot prawns, and expect some of the best sushi in the city. 18 W. Market St., SLC, 801-519-9595. EGN
Ahh Sushi!/O’shucks The menu
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Shogun Relax in your own private room while you enjoy finely presented teriyaki, tempura, sukiyaki or something grilled by a chef before your eyes. 321 S. Main St., SLC, 801-364-7142. GM
Simply Sushi Bargain sushi. All-youcan-eat sushi, if you agree to a few simple rules: Eat all your rice. No take-home. Eat it all or pay the price. 180 W. 400 South, SLC, 801-746-4445. simplysushi.us GEL–M
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our own ramen ranger. His long-simmered noodle-laden broths have a deservedly devoted following—meaning, go early for lunch. Now with a second location. 1465 State St., SLC, 801-466-7000. 1963 E. Murray Holladay Rd., SLC. toshsramen.com GL
Tsunami Besides sushi, the menu offers crispy-light tempura and numerous house cocktails and sake. 2223 S. Highland Drive, SLC, 801-467-5545; 7628 S. Union Park Ave., Sandy, 801-676-6466. tsunamiutah.com EGM Yoko Ramen More ramen! Utahns can’t seem to slurp enough of the big Japanese soup—Yoko serves it up for carnivores and vegans, plus offers some kinkier stuff like a Japanese Cubano sandwich and various pig parts. 472 E. 400 South, SLC, 801-8765267. yokoramenslc.com LL
MEDITERRANEAN Café Med Get the mezzes platter for some of the best falafel in town. Entrees range from pita sandwiches to gargantuan dinner platters of braised shortribs, roast chicken and pasta. 420 E. 3300 South, SLC, 801-493-0100. medslc.com EGM
Layla Layla relies on family recipes. The resulting standards, like hummus and kebabs, are great, but explore some of the more unusual dishes, too. 4751 S. Holladay Blvd., Holladay, 801-272-9111. laylagrill. com EGM–N
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Mazza Excellent. With the
FA M E bright flavor that is the hall-
mark of Middle Eastern food and a great range of dishes, Mazza has been a go-to for fine Lebanese food in SLC before there was much fine food at all. 912 E. 900 South, SLC, 801-521-4572; 1515 S. 1500 East, SLC, 801-484-9259. mazzacafe. com EGM–N
Olive Bistro This downtown cafe offers
Padeli’s One of Salt Lake’s original Greek restaurants, Greek Souvlaki, has opened a contemporary version of itself. Padeli’s also serves the classic street fare, but these excellent souvlaki come in a streamlined space modeled after Chipotle, Zao and other fast-but-not-fast-food stops. The perfect downtown lunch. 30 E. Broadway, SLC, 801-322-1111. padelisstreetgreek. com GL
Spitz Doner Kebab This California transplant specializes in what Utahns mostly know by their Greek name “gyros.” But that’s not the only attraction. Besides the food, Spitz has an energetic hipster vibe and a liquor license that make it an afterdark destination. 35 E. Broadway, SLC, 801-364-0286. spitzrestaurant.com EGM
We Olive It appears to be an extraordinary olive oil store, but tucked in the back is a great cafe and wine bar with a limited but delicious menu of panini, charcuterie, and other antipasti type dishes. 602 E. 500 South (in Trolley Square), SLC, 801-4487489. weolive.com/salt-lake-city EGL
MEXICAN/CENTRAL AMERICAN Alamexo A fresh take on Mexican food from award-winning chef Matthew Lake whose New York Rosa Mexicano was “the gold standard.” More upscale than a taco joint, but nowhere near white tablecloth, this bright, inviting cafe offers tableside guacamole. The rest of the menu, from margaritas to mole, is just as fresh and immediate. 268 State St., SLC, 801-779-4747. alamexo.com EGM
Barrio A slick new taco bar with a slightly punk Mexican theme, Barrio offers the usual selection of tacos—everyone’s favorite food, outdoor seating on nice days,
margaritas, beer and a selection of serve yourself salsas. 282 E. 900 South, SLC, 801-613-2251. barrioslc.com EGL
Blue Iguana This colorful downtown restaurant has a charming downstairs location and patio, and has been a Salt Lake staple for decades. Enchiladas, tacos, combination plates and “jengo” nachos— piled high on a platter—are all good, as are the margaritas. A nifty addition: phone chargers on every table, so if you have one too many of the margaritas, you’ll always have enough power to call for a ride. 165 S. West Temple, SLC, 801-533-8900. blueiguanarestaurant.net EGM
Chile Tepin Instantly popular for its generous servings of not-too-Americanized Mexican food, this place usually has a line on Friday nights. Heavy on the protein—the molcajete holds beef, pork and chicken—but cheese enchiladas and margaritas and other staples are good, too. 307 W. 200 South, SLC, 801-883-9255. chile-tepin.com EGM
Chunga’s These tacos al pastor are the real deal. Carved from a big pineapplemarinated hunk, the meat is folded in delicate masa tortillas with chopped pineapple, onion and cilantro. 180 S. 900 West, SLC, 801-328-4421. chungasmexican.com GL
Lone Star Taqueria Lone Star serves a burrito that’s a meal in itself, whether you choose basic bean and cheese or a special. 2265 E. Fort Union Blvd., SLC, 801-9442300. lstaq.com GL
Red Iguana All locations are a blessing in this City of FA M E Salt, which still has mysteriously few good Mexican restaurants. Mole is what you want. 736 W. North Temple, SLC, 801-322-1489; 866 W. South Temple, SLC, 801-214-6050. EGL–M
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Rio Grande Café As bustling now as it was when it was still a train station, this is a pre-Jazz favorite and great for kids, too. Dishes overflow the plate and fill the belly. 270 S. Rio Grande St., SLC, 801-364-3302. EGL Taco Taco A tiny, charming taqueria, perfect for pick-up and sunny days. Owned by neighboring Cannella’s. 208 E. 500 South, SLC, 801-355-8518. tacotacoslc. com EGL
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on the table Taqueria 27 Salt Lake needs more Mexican food, and Todd Gardiner is here to provide it. Artisan tacos (try the duck confit), inventive guacamole and lots of tequila. 1615 S Foothill Dr., SLC, 385-259-0712; 4670 S Holladay Village Plaza, Holladay, 801-676-9706; 149 E 200 S, SLC, 385-259-0940; 6154 S Fashion Blvd #2, Murray, 801-266-2487; 1688 W Traverse Pkwy, Lehi, 801-331-8033. taqueria27.com EGM
SEAFOOD Current Fish & Oyster House An all-star team made this cool downtown restaurant an instant hit. Excellent and inventive seafood dishes plenty of non-fishy options. 279 E. 300 South, SLC, 801-3263474. currentfishandoyster.com EGM-N
Harbor Seafood & Steak Co. A much-needed breath of sea air refreshes this restaurant, which updates their menu frequently according to the availability of wild fish. A snappy interior, a creative cocktail menu and a vine-covered patio make for a hospitable atmosphere. 2302 Parleys Way, SLC, 801-466-9827. harborslc. com EGM-N
SURF & TURF It used to be a tired idea but everything is fresh at Harbor—Snake Farms wagyu beef and impeccable seafood.
Kimi’s Chop & Oyster House Kimi Eklund and Chef Matt Anderson are bringing a touch of glam to Sugar House with their high-style, multi-purpose restaurant: It’s an oyster bar, it’s a steakhouse, it’s a lounge. However you use it, Kimi’s makes for a fun change from the surrounding pizza and beerscapes, with dramatic lighting, purple velvet and live music. 2155 S. Highland Dr., SLC, 801-946-2079. kimishouse.com EGLLL
Market Street Grill SLC’s fave fish restaurants: Fish is flown in daily and the breakfast is an institution. 48 W. Market Street, SLC, 801-322-4668; 2985 E. 6580 South, SLC, 801-942-8860; 10702 River Front Pkwy., South Jordan, 801-302-2262. marketstreetgrill.com EGM The Oyster Bar This is one of the best selection of fresh oysters in town: Belon, Olympia, Malpeque and Snow Creek, plus Bluepoints. Crab and shrimp are conscientiously procured. 54 W. Market St., SLC, 801-531-6044; 2985 E. Cottonwood
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Parkway (6590 South), SLC, 801-942-8870. marketstreetoysterbar.com EGN
SOUTHEAST ASIAN Chanon Thai Café A meal here is like a casual dinner at your best Thai friend’s place. Try curried fish cakes and red-curry prawns with coconut milk and pineapple. 278 E. 900 South, SLC, 801-532-1177. chanonthai.com L Indochine Vietnamese cuisine is under-represented in Salt Lake’s Thai-ed up dining scene, so a restaurant that offers more than noodles is welcome. Try broken rice dishes, clay pots and pho. 230 S. 1300 East, 801-582-0896. indochinesaltlake. com EGM
Mi La-cai Noodle House Mi La-cai’s noodles rise above the rest, and their pho is fantastic—each bowl a work of art. The beautiful setting is a pleasure. It’s even a pleasure to get the bill. 961 S. State St., SLC, 801-322-3590. lacainoodlehouse.com GL My Thai My Thai is an unpretentious mom-and-pop operation—she’s mainly in the kitchen, and he mainly waits tables, but in a lull, she darts out from her stove to ask diners if they like the food. Yes, we do. 1425 S. 300 West, SLC, 801-505-4999. GL Oh Mai Fast, friendly and hugely flavorful—that sums up this little banh mi shop that’s taken SLC by storm. Pho is also good and so are full plates, but the banh mi are heaven. 850 S. State St., 801-575-8888; 3425 State St., SLC, 801-467-6882; 1644 W. Town Center Dr., South Jordan, 801-2744111, 6093 S. Highland Dr., Holladay, 801277-9888. ohmaisandwich.com EL Pleiku This stylish downtown spot serves a selection of Vietnamese dishes made from family recipes and served tapas-style. Note the pho, which is brewed for 36 hours and served in a full-bowl meal or a preprandial cup. 264 Main St., SLC, 801-359-4544. pleikuslc.com EGM Sapa Sushi Bar & Asian Grill Charming Vietnamese stilt houses surround the courtyard. Sapa’s menu ranges from Thai curries to fusion and hot pots, but the sushi is the best bet. 722 S. State St., SLC, 801-363-7272. sapabarandgrill. com EGM
Sawadee Thai The menu goes far outside the usual pad thai and curry. Thai food’s appeal lies in the subtleties of difference achieved with a limited list of ingredients. 754 E. South Temple, SLC, 801-328-8424. sawadee1.com EGM
Skewered Thai A serene setting for some of the best Thai in town—perfectly balanced curries, pristine spring rolls, intoxicating drunk noodles and a wellcurated wine list. 575 S. 700 East, SLC, 801-364-1144. skeweredthai.com EGL–M SOMI Vietnamese Bistro But there’s also Chinese food and a cocktail menu at this stylish Sugarhouse restaurant. Crispy branzino, pork belly sliders on bai and braised oxtail are some of the highlights to the menu, which also includes the standard spring rolls and pho. 1215 E. Wilmington, SLC, 385-322-1158. somislc.com EGL–M
Thai Garden Paprika-infused pad thai, deep-fried duck and fragrant gang gra ree are all excellent choices—but there are 50-plus items on the menu. Be tempted by batter-fried bananas with coconut ice cream. 4410 S. 900 East, SLC, 801-2667899. thaigardenbistroslc.com EGM
Krua Thai Curries and noodle dishes hit a precise procession on the palate—sweet, then sour, savory and hot—plus there are dishes you’ve never tried before and should: bacon and collard greens, red curry with duck, salmon with chili and coconut sauce. 212 E. 500 South, SLC, 801-3284401. kruathaislc.com EGL–M Thai Siam This restaurant is diminutive, but the flavors are fresh, big and bold. Never expensive, this place is even more of a bargain during lunchtime, when adventurous customers enjoy the $6.95 combination plates, a triple Thai tasting that’s one of the best deals in town. 1435 S. State St., SLC, 801-474-3322. siamptsaltlakecity. com GL Zao Asian Cafe It’s hard to categorize this pan-Asian semi-fast food concept. It draws from Thai, Vietnamese, Chinese and Japanese traditions, all combined with the American need for speed. Just file it under fast, fresh, flavorful food. 639 E. 400 South, SLC, 801-595-1234. zaoasiancafe. com GL
STEAK Christopher’s The menu is straightforward, chilled shellfish and rare steaks, with a few seafood and poultry entrees thrown in for the non-beefeaters. 134 W. Pierpont Ave., SLC, 801-519-8515. EGN Fleming’s Prime Steakhouse This local branch of a national chain has a famously impressive wine list. With more than 100 available by the glass, it has selections that pair well with anything you order. 20 S. 400 West, The Gateway, SLC, 801-355-3704. christophersut.com EGO Ruth’s Chris Steakhouse This former bank building has inner beauty. Stick with classics like crab cocktail, order the wedge, and ask for your butter-sizzled steak no more than medium, please. Service is excellent. Eat dessert, then linger in the cool bar. 275 S. West Temple, SLC, 801363-2000. ruthschris.com EGN
Spencer’s The quality of the meat and the accuracy of the cooking are what make it great. Beef is aged on the bone, and many cuts are served on the bone—a luxurious change from the usual cuts. 255 S. West Temple, SLC, 801-238-4748. hilton.com/en/ hotels/utah EGN
VEGETARIAN Boltcutter Not just vegetarian, but vegan—the boltcutters refer to setting free the animals. Mexican flavors spice up the menu of tacos filled with seitan or mushrooms and there’s a lit of agave spirit drinks. 57 E. Gallivan Ave., SLC, So hip there’s no listed phone. The same folks own the vegan ice cream place next door, Monkeywrench. EGL Omar’s Rawtopia Owner Omar Abou-Ismail’s Rawtopia is a destination for those seeking clean, healthy food in Salt Lake—whether you’re a vegan, vegetarian or omnivore. Desserts are amazingly indulgent—like chocolate caramel pie and berry cheesecake. 2148 Highland Dr., SLC, 801-486-0332. rawtopia.com GL Vertical Diner Chef Ian Brandt, of Sage’s Café and Cali’s Grocery, owns Vertical Diner’s animal-free menu of burgers, sandwiches and breakfasts. Plus organic
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on the table wines and coffees. 234 W. 900 South, SLC, 801- 484-8378. verticaldiner.com EGL
PARK CITY & THE WASATCH BACK AMERICAN FINE DINING Apex Enjoy fine dining at the top of the world. Apex at Montage exudes luxury in the most understated and comfortable way. No need to tux up to experience pampered service; the classy lack of pretension extends to the menu—no unpronounceables, nothing scary or even too daring—just top-of-the-line everything. Quality speaks for itself. 9100 Marsac Ave., Park City, 435604-1300. montagehotels.com/deervalley EGN
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350 Main Now run by Cortney Johanson who has worked at the WAR restaurant for 20 years, this mainstay cafe on Main Street is seeing another high point. With Chef Matthew Safranek in the kitchen, the menu is a balanced mix of old favorites and soon-to-be favorites like Five Spice Venison Loin in Pho. Amazing. 350 Main St., Park City, 435-649-3140. 350main.com EGN ININ
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SALSALLUMINATI This is what 350 calls its resource page—one of the best Web recipe collections in town. Check out the sauces.
The Farm Restaurant Food is at the forefront of the newly named Park City Mountain Resort, and the farm is the flagship featuring sustainably raised and produced food. Resort Village, Sundial Building, North of the Cabriolet. 435-615-4828. parkcityrestaurants.com/ restaurants/the-farm EGO
Firewood Chef John Murcko’s new place on Main Street is all about cooking with fire—his massive Inferno kitchen grill by Grillworks runs on oak, cherry and applewood, depending on what’s cooking. But that doesn’t mean flavors here are all about wood and char, each dish is layered and nuanced, with influences from all over the world. Definitely a new star on Main Street. 306 Main Street, Park City, 435-252-9900. firewoodonmain.com EGN
Glitretind The service is polished, and the menu is as fun or as refined or as inventive as Chef Zane Holmquist’s mood. The
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appeal resonates with the jet set and local diners. The wine list is exceptional. But so is the burger. 7700 Stein Way, Deer Valley, 435-645-6455. steinlodge.com EGO
Goldener Hirsch A jazzed up Alpine theme—elk carpaccio with pickled shallots, foie gras with cherry-prune compote and wiener schnitzel with caraway-spiked carrot strings. 7570 Royal St. East, Park City, 435-649-7770. goldenerhirschinn.com EGO
J&G Grill Jean-Georges Vongerichten lends his name to this restaurant at the St. Regis. The food is terrific, the wine cellar’s inventory is deep, and it’s not as expensive as the view from the patio leads you to expect. 2300 Deer Valley Drive East, Park City, 435-940-5760. EGO
Mariposa at Deer Valley (Open sea-
sonally) Try the tasting menu for an overview of the kitchen’s talent. It’s white tablecloth, but nothing is formal. 7600 Royal St., Park City, 435-645-6715. EGO
Mustang A duck chile relleno arrives in a maelstrom of queso and ranchero sauce. Braised lamb shank and lobster with cheese enchiladas share the menu with seasonal entrees. 890 Main St., Park City, 435-658-3975. mustangparkcity.com EGO Royal Street Café (Open seasonally) Don’t miss the lobster chowder, but note the novelties, too. In a new take on the classic lettuce wedge salad, Royal Street’s version adds baby beets, glazed walnuts and pear tomatoes. 7600 Royal Street, Silver Lake Village, Deer Valley Resort, Park City, 435-645-6724. deervalley.com EGM
Shallow Shaft A genuine taste of Utah’s old-school ski culture—rustic and refined, cozy and classy. A classic. The excellent wine list offers thoughtful pairings. Alta, 801-742-2177. shallowshaft.com EN
Snake Creek Grill The setting is straight outta Dodge City; the menu is an all-American blend of regional cooking styles. Corn bisque with grilled shrimp is a creamy golden wonder. Yes, black-bottom banana cream pie is still on the menu. 650 W. 100 South, Heber, 435-654-2133. snakecreekgrill.com EGM–N
Tupelo Chef Matt Harris brings a touch of the South and lot of excitement to Main Street. This is a far cry from greens and grits but the dishes that come out of his kitchen show a passion for full flavor and a rootsy approach to fine dining that signifies Southern style. A much needed shot of excitement for Main Street. 508 Main St., Park City, 435-615-7700. tupeloparkcity. com EG N
Viking Yurt Arrive by sleigh and settle in for a luxurious five-course meal. Reservations and punctuality a must. Park City Mountain Resort, 435-615-9878. thevikingyurt.com EGO
AMERICAN CASUAL Blind Dog Grill The kitchen offers imaginative selections even though the dark wood and cozy ambience look like an old gentlemen’s club. Don’t miss the Dreamloaf, served with Yukon gold mashed potatoes. 1251 Kearns Blvd., Park City, 435-655-0800. blinddogpc.com EGM–N
The Blue Boar Inn The restaurant is reminiscent of the Alps, but serves fine American cuisine. Don’t miss the awardwinning brunch. 1235 Warm Springs Rd., Midway, 435-654-1400. theblueboarinn. com EGN The Brass Tag In the Lodges at Deer Valley, the focal point here is a wood oven which turns out everything from pizza to fish and chops, all of the superior quality one expects from Deer Valley. 2900 Deer Valley Drive East, Park City, 435-615-2410. deervalley.com EGM
Eating Establishment Claiming to be the oldest, this restaurant is one of Park City’s most versatile. On weekend mornings, locals line up for breakfasts. 317 Main St., Park City, 435-649-8284. theeatingestablishment.net M Fletcher’s on Main Street A fresh idea on Main Street, Fletcher’s has a casual approach designed to suit any appetite, almost any time. Talented Chef Scott Boborek’s carefully sourced dishes range from burgers to Beef Wellington—with lobster mac and Utah trout. 562 Main St., Park City, 435-649-1111. fletcherspc.com EGN
Gateway Grille Folks love the breakfasts, but you’re missing out if you don’t try the pork chop. Roasted until pale pink, its rich pigginess is set off by a port and apple sauce. 215 S. Main St., Kamas, 435-7832867. gatewaygrille.com EGL–M Handle Chef-owner Briar Handly offers a pared back menu, mostly of small plates, with the emphasis on excellent sourcing— trout sausage and Beltex Meats prosciutto, for example. There are also full-meal plates, including the chef’s famous fried chicken. 136 Heber Ave., Park City, 435-602-1155. handleparkcity.com EGN
Hearth and Hill This all-purposse cafe serves lunch, dinner and weekend brunch, focusing on bright, approachable American dishes with a kick. 1153 Center Dr, (Newpark), Park City, 435-200-8840. hearth-hill. com EGM
High West Distillery Order a flight of whiskey and taste the difference aging makes, but be sure to order plenty of food to see how magically the whiskey matches the fare. The chef takes the amber current theme throughout the food. 703 Park Ave., Park City, 435-649-8300. highwest.com EGML Jupiter Bowl Upscale for a bowling alley, but still with something for everyone in the family to love. Besides pins, there are video games and The Lift Grill & Lounge. In Newpark. 1090 Center Dr., Park City, 435- 658-2695. jupiterbowl.com EGM
FOOTHILL
HOLLADAY
1615 S Foothill Dr. 385-259-0712
4670 S Holladay Village Plz 801-676-9706
DOWNTOWN
FASHION PLACE
149 E 200 S 385-259-0940
6154 S Fashion Blvd #2 801-266-2487
Private room available
Private room available
LEHI 1688 W Traverse Pkwy 801-331-8033
Lunch • Dinner • Catering • www.taqueria27.com
Featuring Group Packages and Private Dining
Road Island Diner An authentic 1930s diner refitted to serve 21st-century customers. The menu features old-fashioned favorites for breakfast, lunch and dinner. 981 W. Weber Canyon Rd., Oakley, 435-783-3466. roadislanddiner.com GL
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Sammy’s Bistro Down-to-earth food in a comfortable setting. Sounds simple, but if so, why aren’t there more Sammy’s in our world? Try the bacon-grilled shrimp or a chicken bowl with your brew. 1890 Bonanza Dr., Park City, 435-214-7570. sammysbistro.com EGL–M
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Silver Star Cafe Comfort food with an upscale sensibility and original touches, like shrimp
Endless servings of flame-grilled meats cooked over a wood-charcoal fire Chef-crafted gourmet salad area Ultimate caipirinhas, award-winning wines and much more! City Creek Center 50 S Main St. | 385.232.8070 TexasdeBrazil.com
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on the table and grits with chipotle or Niman Ranch pork cutlets with spaetzle. The location is spectacular. 1825 Three Kings Dr., Park City, 435-655-3456. thesilverstarcafe.com EGM
Simon’s Grill at the Homestead The décor is formal, the fare is hearty but refined—salmon in a morel cream, or pearl onion fritters dusted with coarse salt. 700 N. Homestead Dr., Midway, 888-327-7220. homesteadresort.com EGN
TRADITION Old-time Parkites still swear by the food at Adolph’s but the draw is not just the food, It’s the patina of years and the loyal clientele. Adolph Imboden, a former Swiss ski racer, created a tradition as much as a restaurant. One word: fondue.
Spin Café Housemade gelato is the big star at this family-owned café, but the food is worth your time. Try the pulled pork, the salmon BLT or the sirloin. 220 N. Main St., Heber City, 435-654-0251. spincafe.net EGL–M Zermatt Resort The charming, Swissthemed resort is big on buffets—seafood, Italian and brunch. 784 W. Resort Dr., Midway, 866-643-2015. zermattresort.com EGM–N
BAKERIES & CAFÉS Park City Coffee Roasters The town’s fave house-roasted coffee and housemade pastries make this one of the best energy stops in town. 1680 W. Ute Blvd., Park City, 435-647-9097. pcroaster. com GL
Peace, Love and Little Donuts Doughnuts all day long at this Park City outpost of an East Coast favorite. And you can choose your own toppings. 738 Main St., Park City, 435-731-8383. peaceloveandlittledonuts.com GL
Riverhorse Provisions Bowls, breakfast, sandwiches, substantial snacks and picnics to go—even beer and wine—this place has pretty much everything you need whenever you need it. Right on Main Street. riverhorseprovisions.com EGL
Wasatch Bagel Café Not just bagels, but bagels as buns, enfolding a sustaining layering of sandwich fillings like egg and bacon. 1300 Snow Creek Dr., Park City, 435-645-7778. GL
Windy Ridge Bakery & Café One of Park City’s most popular noshing spots— especially on Taco Tuesdays. The bakery behind turns out desserts and pastries for
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Bill White’s restaurants as well as takehome entrees. 1250 Iron Horse Dr., Park City, 435-647-0880. wasatchbagelandgrill. com EGL–M
BAR GRUB & BREWPUBS Burgers & Bourbon Housed in the luxurious Montage, this casual restaurant presents the most deluxe versions of America’s favorite foods. The burgers are stupendous, there’s a great list of bourbons to back them, and the milkshakes are majorly good. 9100 Marsac Avenue, Park City, 435-604-1300. montagehotels.com EGN Red Rock Junction The house-brewed beers—honey wheat, amber ale or oatmeal stout, to name a few—complement a menu of burgers, brick-oven pizzas and rotisserie chicken. 1640 W. Redstone Center Dr., Ste. 105, Park City, 435-575-0295. redrockbrewing.com EGM
Squatters Roadhouse Everyone loves the bourbon burger, and Utah Brewers Co-op brews are available by the bottle and on the state-of-the-art tap system. Open for breakfast daily. 1900 Park Ave., Park City, 435-649-9868. squatters.com EGM
Wasatch Brewpub This was the first brewpub in Utah, and it serves handcrafted beer and family-friendly fare without a hefty price tag. Everyone loves Polygamy Porter, and the weekend brunch is great, too. 240 Main St., Park City, 435-6490900. wasatchbeers.com EGL–M
BREAKFAST Deer Valley Grocery & Cafe The small lakeside spot serves sandwiches and lunch specials, plus it’s a great place to stock up on deer Valley classics to take home—think classic Deer Valley turkey chili. 1375 Deer Valley Dr., Park City, 435615-2400. deervalley.com GL Woodford Biscuit Company Breakfast is the real deal here so pile on the bacon and eggs but if you sleep late, not to worry—burgers, sandwiches and tacos are good too. 2734 E State Hwy 35, Woodland, 435- 783-4202. woodlandbiscuit.com GL
CONTINENTAL & EUROPEAN Adolph’s Park City locals believe the steak sandwich is the best in town. You’ll also find classics like wiener schnitzel, rack of lamb and Steak Diane. 1500 Kearns Blvd., Park City, 435-649-7177. EGO
Café Terigo This charming café is the spot for a leisurely meal. Chicken and bacon tossed with mixed greens and grilled veggies on focaccia are café-goers’ favorites. 424 Main St., Park City, 435-645-9555. adolphsrestaurantparkcity.com EGM
ITALIAN & PIZZA Fuego Off the beaten Main Street track, this pizzeria is a family-friendly solution to a ski-hungry evening. Pastas, paninis and wood-fired pizzas are edgy, but they’re good. 2001 Sidewinder Dr., Park City, 435645-8646. fuegopizzeria.com EGM Vinto The only location of this chic pizzeria, Vinto has a great patio, as well as personal pizzas (try the Tuttabello), a nice wine list and a rotating selection of excellent gelato. A great PC deal. Don’t overlook the pasta specials. 900 Main St, Park City, 435-615-9990. vinto.com EGM Ghidotti’s Ghidotti’s evokes Little Italy more than Italy, and the food follows suit— think spaghetti and meatballs, lasagna and rigatoni Bolognese. Try the chicken soup. 6030 N. Market St., Park City, 435-6580669. ghidottis.com EGM–N
Grappa Dishes like osso buco and grape salad with gorgonzola, roasted walnuts and Champagne vinaigrette are sensational, and the wine list features hard-to-find Italian wines as well as flights, including sparkling. 151 Main St., Park City, 435-6450636. grapparestaurant.com EO
JAPANESE/PAN-ASIAN Sushi Blue Find the yin and yang of Asian-American flavors in Bill White’s sushi, excellent Korean tacos, crab sliders and other Amer-Asian food fusions, including the best hot dog in the state, topped with bacon and house-made kimchi. 1571 W. Redstone Center Dr. Ste. 140, Park City, 435-575-4272. sushiblueparkcity.com EGM–N
137 Wahso Restaurateur Bill White is known for his eye-popping eateries. Wahso is his crown jewel, done up with lanterns and silks like a 1930s noir set. Don’t miss the jasmine tea-smoked duck. 577 Main St., Park City, 435-615-0300. wahso.com EGO
MEXICAN & SOUTHWESTERN Baja Cantina The T.J. Taxi is a flour tortilla stuffed with chicken, sour cream, tomatoes, onions, cheddar-jack cheese and guacamole. Park City Resort Center, 1284 Lowell Ave., Park City, 435-649-2252. bajaparkcity.com EGM Billy Blanco’s Motor City Mexican. The subtitle is “burger and taco garage,” but garage is the notable word. This is a theme restaurant with lots of cars and motorcycles on display, oil cans to hold the flatware, and a 50-seat bar made out of toolboxes. If you’ve ever dreamed of eating in a garage, you’ll be thrilled. 8208 Gorgoza Pines Rd., Park City, 435-575-0846. billyblancos.com EGM-N
Chimayo Bill White’s prettiest place, this restaurant is reminiscent of Santa Fe, but the food is pure Park City. Margaritas are good, and the avocado-shrimp appetizer combines guacamole and ceviche flavors in a genius dish. 368 Main St., Park City, 435-649-6222. chimayorestaurant.com EGO
CAFECAFECAFE
El Chubasco Regulars storm this restaurant for south-of-the-border eats. Burritos fly through the kitchen like chiles too hot to handle—proving consistency matters. 1890 Bonanza Dr., Park City, 435-645-9114. elchubascomexicangrill.com EGL–M Tarahumara Some of the best Mexican food in the state can be found in this family- owned cafe in Midway. Don’t be fooled by the bland exterior; inside you’ll find a full-fledged cantina and an adjoining family restaurant with a soulful salsa bar. 380 E. Main St., Midway, 435-654-34654. EGM–N
MIDDLE EASTERN & GREEK Reef’s Lamb chops are tender, falafel is crunchy, and the prices fall between fast food and fine dining. It’s a den of
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138 home cooking, if your home is east of the Mediterranean. 710 Main St., Park City, 435-658-0323. reefsrestaurant. com EGM
SEAFOOD Freshie’s Lobster Co. After years as everyone’s favorite summer food stop at Park Silly Market, Freshie’s has settled into a permanent location selling their shore-to-door lobster rolls all year round. 1897 Prospector Ave., Park City, 435-6319861. freshieslobsterco.com EGM
LOBSTAH Lobster rolls are a sumer staple but Freshies as another bug in its bucket: cold weather means soup and the bisque and chowda here are the bowls you crave. the only catch: Go before they run out for the day.
Rime Seafood & Raw Bar Riding a gondola to the top of a ski slope is completely counterintuitive, but Chef Matt Harris and Maggie Alvarez make it seem natural. Open Thurs-Sunday. 9850 Summit View Dr. rimerawbar.com EGN
SOUTHEAST ASIAN Shabu Cool new digs, friendly service and fun food make Shabu one of PC’s most popular spots. Make reservations. A stylish bar with prize-winning mixologists adds to the freestyle feel. 442 Main St., Park City, 435-645-7253. shabuparkcity.com EGM–N Kuchu Shabu House The second shabu-style eatery in PC is less grand than the first but offers max flavor from quality ingredients. 1612 W. Ute Blvd., Park City, 658-435-5829. kuchushabu. com EGLL
STEAK Butcher’s Chop House & Bar The draws are prime rib, New York strip and pork chops—and the ladies’ night specials in the popular bar downstairs. 751 Main St., Park City, 435-647-0040. butcherschophouse.com EGN
Grub Steak Live country music, fresh salmon, lamb and chicken, and a mammoth salad bar. Order bread pudding whether you think you want it or not. You will. 2200 Sidewinder Dr., Prospector Square, Park City, 435-649-8060. grubsteakparkcity.com EGN Edge Steakhouse This beautifully fills the beef bill at the huge resort, and the tasting menus take you through
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salad, steak and dessert for $45 to $60, depending on options. 3000 Canyon Resort Drive, Park City, 435-655-2260. EGO
Prime Steak House Prime’s recipe for success is simple: Buy quality ingredients and insist on impeccable service. Enjoy the piano bar, and save room for molten chocolate cake. 804 Main St., Park City, 435-655-9739. westgateresorts.com EG Lespri Prime Steak A quiet treasure tucked away off the Main Street circus, Lespri’s forte is service as well as fine steak and sushi. That’s right, turf and surf. 1765 Sidewinder Dr., Park City, 435-649-5900. lespriprime.com EGN
Union Grill The cross-over cooking offers sandwiches, seafood and pastas with American, Greek, Italian or Mexican spices. Union Station, 315 24th St., Ogden, 801-621-2830. uniongrillogden. com EGM
BAR GRUB & BREWPUBS Beehive Grill An indirect offshoot of Moab Brewery, the Grill focuses as much on house-brewed root beer as alcoholic suds, but the generally hefty food suits either. 255 S. Main St., Logan, 435-7532600. thebeehivegrill.com EGL
BURGERS, SANDWICHES, DELIS Caffe Ibis Exchange news, enjoy
NORTH SALT LAKE & BEYOND AMERICAN FINE DINING The Huntington Room at Earl’s Lodge Ski-day sustenance and fireside dinner for the après-ski set. In summer, dine at the top of the mountain. 3925 E. Snowbasin Rd., Huntsville, 888-437-547. snowbasin.com EGLL
AMERICAN CASUAL The Bluebird The ornate soda fountain, tile floors and mahogany tables are the setting for daily specials and soups, milkshakes and sundaes. 19 N. Main St., Logan, 435752-3155. thebluebirdrestaurant.com M
Hearth The charming upstairs dining room is a great setting for some of the best and most imaginative food in Ogden. Handmade hearth bread, espressorubbed yak, killer stroganoff—too many options to mention here—this is really a destination restaurant. 195 Historic 25th St. Ste. 6 (2nd Floor), Ogden, 801-3990088. hearth25.com EGN
Prairie Schooner Tables are covered wagons around a diorama featuring coyotes, cougars and cowboys—corny, but fun. The menu is standard, but kids love it. 445 Park Blvd., Ogden, 801-621-5511. prairieschoonerrestaurant.com EGM
sandwiches and salads and linger over a cuppa conscientiously grown coffee. 52 Federal Ave., Logan, 435-753-4777. caffeibis.com GL
Maddox Ranch House Angus beef steaks, bison chicken-fried steak and burgers have made this an institution for more than 50 years. Eat in, drive up or take home. 1900 S. Highway 89, Perry, 435-7238545. maddoxfinefood.com GL–M
CHINESE Mandarin The rooms are filled with red and gold dragons. Chefs recruited from San Francisco crank out a huge menu. Desserts are noteworthy. Call ahead. 348 E. 900 North, Bountiful, 801298-2406. mandarinutah.com EGM
ITALIAN AND PIZZA The Italian Place A great sandwich is about proportion, not quantity, the perfect balance of filling and bread, and toasted until the meld is complete. 48 Federal Ave., Logan, 435-753-2584. italianplace.net GL
Slackwater Pizza The pies here are as good as any food in Ogden. Selection ranges from traditional to Thai (try it), and there’s a good selection of wine and beer. 1895 Washington Blvd., Ogden, 801-399-0637. slackwaterpizzeria.com EGM
139 Rovali’s Ristorante This friendly family-owned place on Ogden’s main drag serves hearty Italian fare and housemade pastry, plus a creative bar menu and live music. 174 E. 2500 S., Ogden, 801-3941070. rovalis.com EGM
Zucca Trattoria Chef-Gerladine Sepulveda’s menu features regional Italian dishes—check out the specials. But that’s only part of Zucca. There is also a great Italian market and deli, selling salami and cheese and sandwiches, a regular schedule of cooking classes and a special menu of healthful dishes. 225 25th Street, Ogden, 801-475-7077. myzucca.com EGM–N
JAPANESE Ramen Haus Sergei Oveson’s experience with ramen master Tosh and Shani Oveson’s at Naked Fish shows all over their restaurant in Ogden. Simple but stylish sums the space and terrific is the only word for the ramen. Do not leave without ordering the honey toast even if you think you don’t want dessert. 2550 Washington Blvd., Ogden, 801-393-0000. ramenhaus. business.site EGM
Tona Sushi The charming old space on Ogden’s main drag houses a meticulously top-notch sushi restaurant. Owner Tony Chen grows herbs and sprouts in the basement and the plates he presents show an artist’s touch. Ask about the secret menu. 210 25th Street, Ogden, 801-6228662. tonarestaurant.com EGM–N
Viking Yurt’s 20th Anniversary Utah’s most iconic winter dining adventure!
MEXICAN Sonora Grill A big, beautiful Mexican restaurant, the kind you see in Texas or New Mexico, Sonora serves great chips and salsa, a famous margarita, several kinds of ceviche and all the dishes you love as well as vegan, vegetarian and gluten-free options. .2310 Kiesel Ave., Ogden, 801-393-1999. comthesonoragrill. com EGM–N
SOUTHEAST ASIAN Thai Curry Kitchen Chic and sleek counter service offering bright fromscratch curries and salads plus locally made kombucha. 582 25th St., Ogden, 385-333-7100. thaicurrykitchen.com.GM
Located at the top of PARK CITY RESORT This unique four hour dining adventure includes a snow-cat pulled sleigh ride with incredible views, an elegant six-course meal and a private concert for 40 people on our baby grand piano.
Lunch Served 11:00 am daily. Ski-in-ski-out only. No reservations taken.
Dinner
6:00 pm Reservations required. Each course has imaginative presentation and entertaining twists.
Book online at VikingYurt.com
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140 PROVO & CENTRAL UTAH AMERICAN FINE DINING Communal Food is focused on the fa-
INDIAN Bombay House Salt Lake’s biryani mainstay has several sister restaurants worthy to call family. 463 N. University Ave., Provo, 801-373-6677; 7726 Campus View Dr., West Jordan, 801-282-0777; 2731 E. Parley’s Way, SLC, 801-581-0222. bombayhouse.com EGM–N
ITALIAN
miliar with chef’s flair—like braised pork shoulder crusted in panko. Attention to detail makes this one of Utah’s best. 100 N. University Ave., Provo, 801-373-8000. communalrestaurant.com EGM–N
The Tree Room Sundance Resort’s flagship is known for its seasonal, straightforward menu and memorable decor, including Robert Redford’s kachina collection. Try the wild game—spice-rubbed quail and buffalo tenderloin. Highway 92, Sundance Resort, Provo Canyon, 801-2234200. sundanceresort.com EGN–O
TREELESS ROOM So the tree isn’t there anymore, But Tree Room still offers a menu of deeply rooted comfort food. No tricks, purely American, but never run of the mill, this is still among the finest Utah has to offer.
AMERICAN CASUAL Chomburger Colton Soelberg (Communal, etc.) has opened a low-key highend burger place with an eye towards infusing high-quality ingredients into America’s favorite sandwich. Inexpensive, innovative and delicious burgers and shakes, as we have come to expect from Soelberg who has a knack for elevating comfort food. You’ll love the amazing Star Wars mural. 45 W. 300 North, Provo, 385-241-7499. chomburger.com GL The Foundry Grill The café in Sundance Resort serves comfort food with western style—sandwiches, spit-roasted chickens and steaks. Sunday brunch is a mammoth buffet. Sundance Resort, Provo, 801-223-4220. sundanceresort.com EGM
Station 22 Ever-hipper Provo is home to some cutting-edge food now that the cutting edge has a folksy, musical saw kind of style. Station 22 is a perfect example of the Utah roots trend—a charming, funky interior, a great soundtrack and a menu with a slight Southern twang. Try the fried chicken sandwich with red cabbage on ciabatta. 22 W. Center St., Provo, 801-607-1803. station22cafe.com EGL–M
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Pizzeria 712 The pizza menu reaches heights of quality that fancier restaurants only fantasize about. Not only are the blister-crusted pizzas the epitome of their genre, but braised short ribs, local mushrooms and arugula on ciabatta are equally stellar. 320 S. State St., Orem, 801-623-6712. pizzeria712.com EGM
VEGETARIAN
Eklectic Café This is what you hope Moab will be like—vestigially idealistic, eccentric and unique. Linger on the patio with your banana pancakes, then shop the bric-a-brac inside. 352 N. Main St., Moab, 435-259-6896. GL
Sunglow Family Restaurant This pit stop is famous for its pinto bean and pickle pies. Yes, we said pickle. 91 E. Main St., Bicknell, 435-425-3701. GL–M
BAR GRUB & BREWPUBS Moab Brewery A beloved watering hole for river-runners, slick-rock bikers, red-rock hikers and everyone who needs a bite and a beer, which is nearly everyone in Moab. All beer is brewed on site. 686 Main St., Moab, 435-259-6333. themoabbrewery.com EGM
Ginger’s Garden Cafe Tucked inside Dr. Christopher’s Herb Shop, Ginger’s serves truly garden-fresh, brightflavored, mostly vegetarian dishes. 188. S. Main St., Springville, 801-489-4500. gingersgardencafe.com GL
ST. GEORGE & SOUTHWEST UTAH AMERICAN FINE DINING
MOAB & SOUTHEAST UTAH AMERICAN DINING Café Diablo (Open seasonally) This café offers buzz-worthy dishes like rattlesnake cakes and fancy tamales. Save room for dessert. 599 W. Main St., Torrey, 435-425-3070. cafediablo.com EGN
HAofLL
Hell’s Backbone Grill
FA M E Owners Blake Spalding and
Jen Castle set the bar for local, organic food in Utah. Now the cafe has gained national fame. They garden, forage, raise chickens and bees, and offer breakfasts, dinners and even picnic lunches. 20 N. Highway 12, Boulder, 435-3357464. hellsbackbonegrill.com EGM–N
Capitol Reef Inn & Café This family spot strives for a natural and tasty menu—and dishes like fresh trout and cornmeal pancakes achieve it. Be sure to look at the great rock collection and the stone kiva. 360 W. Main St., Torrey, 435425-3271. capitolreefinn.com EGL–M
King’s Landing In the Driftwood Inn, King’s Landing has some of the finest food and the finest view in Utah. Chef Thomas King and his wife Pastry Chef Phu Nguyen are ambitious beyond their location—seasonal, vegan, gluten-free are all covered—and while some of the dishes are complex, none seem contrived. Mushroom tart involves mushrooms, caramelized onions, butternut squash and grapes with burrata and basil, but the flavors meld into harmony. New York strip comes with root vegetable “crush” and the fried quail with parsnip puree. 1515 Zion Park Blvd., Suite 50-A, Springdale, 435-7727422. klbzion.com EGO Painted Pony The kitchen blends culinary trends with standards like sagesmoked quail on mushroom risotto. Even “surf and turf” has a twist—tenderloin tataki with chile-dusted scallops. 2 W. St. George Blvd., Ste. 22, St. George, 435634-1700. painted-pony.com EGN Spotted Dog Café Relax, have some vino and enjoy your achiote-braised lamb shank with mint mashed potatoes on top of rosemary spaghetti squash. 428
141 Zion Park Blvd., Springdale, 435-772-0700. flanigans.com/dining EGN
AMERICAN CASUAL Oscar’s Café Blueberry pancakes, fresh eggs, crisp potatoes and thick bacon. We love breakfast, though Oscar’s serves equally satisfying meals at other times of day. 948 Zion Park Blvd., Springdale, 435772-3232. oscarscafe.com GL
Mom’s Café Mom’s has fed travelers on blue plate standards since 1928. This is the place to try a Utah “scone” with “honey butter.” 10 E. Main St., Salina, 435-529-3921. famousmomscafe.business.site GL
Red Rock Grill at Zion Lodge Try eating here on the terrace. Enjoy melting-pot American dishes like smoked trout salad with prickly pear vinaigrette. And you can’t beat the red rock ambience. Zion National Park, 435-772-7700. zionlodge.com EGL–M
Whiptail Grill Tucked into an erstwhile gas station, the kitchen is little, but the flavors are big—a goat cheese-stuffed chile relleno crusted in Panko and the chocolatechile creme brulee. 445 Zion Park Blvd., Springdale, 435-772-0283. whiptailgrillzion.com EGL–M
Xetava Gardens Café Blue corn pancakes for breakfast and lunch are good bets. But to truly experience Xetava, dine under the stars in eco-conscious Kayenta. 815 Coyote Gulch Court, Ivins, 435-6560165. xetava.com EGM
BAKERIES & CAFÉS Twenty-five Main Café and Cake Parlor With its hip graphic design, ever-socool servers and a loyal cupcake following, this simple sandwich spot could be at home in Soho, but it’s in St. George. 25 N. Main St., St. George, 435-628-7110. 25main.com GL
MEXICAN The Bit and Spur The menu stars Southwestern cuisine—ribs, beef and chicken—as well as chili verde. A longtime Zion favorite, there’s almost always a wait here, but it’s almost always a pleasant one with a view and a brew in hand. 1212 Zion Park Blvd., Springdale, 435-772-3498. bitandspur.com EGM
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21 & OVER BARS
bar
Forget about navigating the state’s labyrinth of liquor laws— the more than 20 bars and pubs listed here prioritize putting a drink in your hand, although most of them serve good food, too. Restricted to 21 and over. (Be prepared to show your I.D., whatever your age. This is Utah, after all.)
FLY
LIBATIONS | BARS
All bars listed in the Salt Lake Bar Fly have been vetted and chosen based on quality of beverage, food, atmosphere and service. This selective guide has no relationship to any advertising in the magazine.
On Target
Review visits are anonymous, and all expenses are paid by Salt Lake magazine.
Darts ARE BACK in SLC. BY MARY BROWN MALOUF
starts here.” “That’s where you put your foot,” Devin Callaway tells me. “No, not your toe. Line up your right foot parallel to the line.” Then a twist to face the board, aim, point and...thud. My dart didn’t even hit the board. There’s more to throwing darts than fancy footwork. Darts, the quintessential pub game, is making a comeback in SLC. The Wasatch Darts has four divisions. The C Division consists of six teams, including The Mighty Mighty Mash Tons, sponsored by TF Brewing. And these are the guys who
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PHOTO ADAM FINKLE
The line on the floor says, “The Bull
144
bar fly AC The Euro-styled hotel has a chic lobby bar and a secret menu of drinks inspired by movies filmed in Utah, like Dumb and Dumber and Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid. 225 W. 200 South, SLC, 385-722-9600. achotels. marriott.com EGM Aerie Floor-to-ceiling windows mean drinkers can marvel at nature’s handiwork while feasting from the sushi bar. The menu is global with live music some nights. Cliff Lodge, Snowbird Resort, 801-933-2160 EGO Bar George Sister—well, brother—to the restaurant George, the bar specializes in owner Scott Evans’ passion: natural and organic wines. 327 W. 200 South, SLC, 801-487-1699, bargeorgeslc. com
The Mighty Mighty Mash Tons
are tolerating my feeble flings at their practice night. They are throwing darts at another board which is hooked up to an electronic scoreboard. It’s been 700 years, give or take, since darts was invented as a military pastime where soldiers took turns throwing spearheads at upturned wine casks. (Remember that saying, war is hours of boredom and minutes of terror? Darts was invented during the boredom part.) Supposedly, wine casks gave way to slabs of tree trunks, tree trunks have growth rings and radial cracks— inspiration for the modern dart board. In Great Britain, darts is one of the national games— there’s a board in most every pub—and though it’s not yet an Olympic sport, lots of people say it should be. It takes skill, practice and concentration—just look at the expressions on the throwers’ faces. It also takes beer. After drinking part of one to assuage the humiliation of my early rounds, I threw a bullseye, a double bull, in dartspeak. Which called for another beer. TF Brewing (936 S. 900 West, SLC, 385-270-5972) is just one place Wasatch Dart Association plays in the area. Others include Ice Haus, Shades of Pale, Redwood Lounge, The Republican and more. More info at Wasatchdarts.com
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Bar X A survivor of the ups and downs of Utah liquor laws, this was the vanguard of Salt Lake’s new cocktail movement, serving classic drinks and creative inventions behind the best electric sign in the city. 155 E. 200 South, SLC, 801-355-2287. beerbarslc.com EGL Beer Bar Ty Burrell, star of ABC’s small-screen hit Modern Family, coowns Beer Bar, which is right next to Bar X. It’s noisy, there’s no table service, but there are 140-+ brews to choose from, plus 13 kinds of wurst. 161 E. 200 South, SLC, 801-355-2287. beerbarslc.com EGL The Bayou This is Beervana, with 260 bottled beers and 32 on draft. The kitchen turns out artichoke pizza and deep-fried Cornish game hens. 645 S. State St., SLC, 801-961-8400. utahbayou.com EGM
DARTSPEAK Even if you don’t cork during a leg, you can say it correctly. CORK: The bullseye LEG: A game in a match PIE: Any wedge on the board MUGS AWAY: The loser of a match gets to start the next game. TON: A score of 100 points— and hence, the second pun in the Mighty Mighty Mash Tons’ name
Beerhive Pub More than 200
beers—domestic, imported and local— with a long ice rail to keep the brew cold, the way Americans like ’em, are the outstanding features of this cozy downtown pub. 128 S. Main St., SLC, 801-364-4268 EGL
BTG Wine Bar BTG stands for “By
the Glass” and though BTG serves craft cocktails, specialty beer and good food, the pièces de résistance are the more than 50 wines by the glass. Order a tasting portion or a full glass. 404 S W Temple, SLC, 801-359-2814. btgwinebar. com EGL
Campfire Lounge The laid-back
feeling of sitting around a campfire is
what the owners were aiming for, with or without flames. Campfire is a relaxed neighborhood joint with affordable drinks. And s’mores. 837 E. 2100 South, 801-467-3325 campfirelounge.com EGL
Copper Common Copper Common
is a real bar—that means you don’t actually have to order food if you don’t want to. But on the other hand, why wouldn’t you want to? This bar has a real chef. 111 E. Broadway, SLC, 801-355-9453. coppercommon.com EGM
Cotton Bottom Inn Remember when this was a ski bum’s town? The garlic burger and a beer is what you order. 2820 E. 6200 South, SLC, 801-273-9830. cottonbottominn.com EGL
Crafted cocktails, Pie Bar
(Old Fashioned & Pecan Pie? YES!) &
Award-winning Spirits
East Liberty Tap House Half a dozen beers on draft and 20 or more by the bottle, and the rotation changes constantly. The menu does clever takes on bar food classics, like onion dip and potato chips. 850 E. 900 South, SLC, 801441-2845. eastlibertytaphouse.com EGM Gibson Lounge Grand America’s inimitable upscale style is translated into a cushy but unstuffy bar, the antithesis of the current hipster style. You can actually wear a cocktail dress to this cocktail bar. 555 S. Main St, SLC, 801-258-6778. grandamerica.com EGM Good Grammar The crowds playing
Jenga on the patio, the decor, full of pop celebs and heroes, and a soundtrack of eclectic old- and alt-rock, makes a space that bridges old and young imbibers. 49 E. Gallivan Ave., 385-415-5002 goodgrammar.bar EGL
High West Distillery The bartenders
Retail Store open 7 days/week; 1-9pm 350 Main Street; Park City 435-200-9537
Statement Required by 39 U.S.C. 3526 showing the Ownership, Management and Circulation of Salt Lake magazine, published six times a year. ISSN 1524-7538. Annual subscription price: $19.95 1. Location of known Office of Publication is 515 S 700E Suite 3i, Salt Lake City, Utah 84102. 2. Location of known Headquarters of General Business offices of the Publishers is 515 S 700E Suite 3i, Salt Lake City, Utah 84102. 3. The names and addresses of the publisher and editor are: Publisher: Margaret Mary Shuff, 515 S 700E Suite 3i, Salt Lake City, Utah 84102. Editor: Mary Malouf, 515 S 700E Suite 3i, Salt Lake City, Utah 84102. 4. The owner is Utah Partners Publishing LLC, 515 S 700E Suite 3i, Salt Lake City, Utah 84102. 5. Known bondholders, mortgages, and other security holders owning or holding 1 percent or more of total amount of bonds, mortgages or other securities are: None.
6. Extent and nature of circulation Average No. Copies No. Copies of Single Each Issue During Issue Published Preceding 12 Months Nearest to Filing Date
at Utah’s award-winning distillery concoct different cocktail menus for every season focusing on High West’s spirits, although the bar stocks other alcohol. 703 Park Ave., Park City, 435-649-8300 highwest.com EGM
C. Total Paid Distribution
Garage Everyone compares it to an
1. Free or Nominal Rate Outside-County Copies
Austin bar. Live music, good food and the rockingest patio in town. Try the Chihuahua, a chile-heated riff on a margarita. 1199 N. Beck St., SLC, 801-521-3904. garageonbeck.com EGL
Gracie’s Play pool, throw darts, listen
to live music, kill beer and time on the patio and upstairs deck. Plus, Gracie’s is a gastropub. 326 S. West Temple, SLC, 801819-7563. graciesslc.com EGM
25,084 24,387
A. Total Number of Copies Printed
–– ––
B. Paid Circulation 1. Mailed Outside-County Paid Subscriptions.
8,046
2. Mailed In-County Paid Subscriptions.
––
3. Paid Distribution Outside the Mails including Sales Through Dealers and
6,195
7,595
–– 6,593
®
Carriers, Street Vendors, Counter Sales, and Other Paid Distribution Outside USPS . 4. Paid Distribution by Other Classes of Mail. D. Total Free or Nominal Rate Distribution
–– 14,241
–– 14,188
–– –– 3,983
3,878
2. Free or Nominal Rate In-County Copies
––
––
3. Free or Nominal Rate Copies Mailed at Other Classes
––
––
4. Free or Nominal Rate Distribution Outside the Mail
4,597
4,403
E. Total Free or Nominal Rate Distribution
8,580 8,281
F. Total Distribution G. Copies Not Distributed H. TOTAL I. Percent Paid
22,821
22,469
2,263
1,918
25,084
24,387
62% 63%
7. I certify that all statements made by me above are correct and complete.
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146 Green Pig Green Pig is a pub of a different color. The owners use eco-friendly materials and sustainable kitchen practices. The menu star is the chili verde nachos with big pork chunks and cheese. 31 E. 400 South, SLC, 801-532-7441. thegreenpigpub.com EGL The Rest and Bodega The neon sign
says “Bodega;” drink a beer in the phone booth–sized front or head downstairs to the speakeasy-styled The Rest. Order a cocktail, settle into the apparently bomb-proof booklined library, or take a booth and sit at the bar. 331 S. Main St., SLC, 801‑532‑4042. bodega331.com EGL
The Shooting Star More than a century old, this is gen-you-wine Old West. The walls are adorned with moose heads and a stuffed St. Bernard. Good luck with finishing your Star Burger. 7300 E. 200 South, Huntsville, 801745-2002. shooting-star-saloon.business.site EGL Oyster Bar The nightlife side of Market
Street seafood restaurant, the Oyster Bar has an is a place to begin or end an evening, with an award-winning martini and a dozen oysters—half price on Mondays. 54 W. Market St., SLC, 801-531-6044. marketstreetgrill.com EGM
Quarters Nostalgic for all those Gen Xers and gamer geeks, Quarters features retro gaming pinball and a game called Killer Queen. Drink a sling—or order a La Croix with a shot poured into the can. 5 E. 400 South, SLC, quartersslc.com. EGM
Spencer’s The cozy, wood-panelled bar
adjoining the steakhouse is a classic; the bartender can mix what you want. Hilton Salt Lake City Center, 255 W. Temple, SLC, 801238-4748. hilton.com EGM
Tinwell An old dive bar resuscitated,
now it’s a hipster haven with a cool interior, well-crafted cocktails. live music and a beer garden. 837 Main St., SLC, 801-953-1769. tinwellbar.com
The Vault A quintessential hotel bar,
with big windows overlooking pedestrian traffic. Special cocktails may be themed to what’s on stage across the street at Capitol Theatre. 202 S. Main St., SLC, 801-363-5454. bambara-slc.com/the-vault EGL
S A LT L A K E M A G A Z I N E . C O M | N O V / D E C 2 0 1 9
Wakara Bar One of the few bars on the west bench, Wakara serves craft cocktails and hosts live music, trivia nights, liquor education and even, occasionally, drag queens. 480 Wakara Way, SLC, 385-722-9600. EGL
Uinta Brewing Company Founder Will
Water Witch Three of Utah’s leading bartenders join forces in this charming tiny bar. Whether you want a classic drink, a draft or glass of wine, or a cocktail custom-designed to your taste, this is the place to belly up. 163 W. 900 South, SLC, 801-462-0967. waterwitchbar.com EGL
TF Brewing TF stands for Templin Family;
Whiskey Street This stretch of Main was
beloved by Bohemian’s owners’ Czech forebears, following the ancient Reinheitsgbot or German Purity Law. 94 E. 7200 South, Midvale, 801-566-5474, bohemianbrewery.com
once dubbed “Whiskey Street” because it was lined with so many pubs and bars. Anchored by a 42-foot-long cherry wood bar encouraging you to bend the elbow. 323 S. Main St., SLC, 801-433-1371. whiskeystreet.com EGL
Zest Kitchen & Bar Besides the healthy
dining, Zest offers hand-crafted fresh juice cocktails with the same emphasis on local and organic ingredients as the food—try an original concoction like the Straw-bubbly Lavender Martini. 275 S. 200 West, SLC, 801433-0589. zestslc.com EGL
BEERS & BREWS Squatters Pub Brewery/Wasatch Brewery Salt Lake’s original breweries
merged to form Utah Brewers Cooperative— Squatters and Wasatch are the most popular watering holes in Salt Lake. 147 W. Broadway, 801-363-2739, squatters.com, 2110 Highland Dr., 801-783-1127. wasatchbeers.com
Desert Edge Brewery at the Pub The constantly changing variety and Beer School set Desert Edge apart from all the others. 801-521-8917. desertedgebrewery.com Level Crossing Opened by home brewer and photographer Christ Detrick, Level Crossing is long on games (like darts), good food and of course good beer. 936 S. 900 West, SLC, 385-270-5972. levelcrossing.com
Red Rock Brewery A longtime favorite
for tippling and tasting—The pub draws on 45 recipes for its rotating selection. 254 S. 200 West, 801-521-7446. redrockbrewing.com
Toasted Barrel Brewery Look for sea-
sonal releases of vintage aged sours and high alcohol barrel-aged beers. 412 W. 600 North, 801-657-6942. toastedbarrelbrewery.com
Hamill says,“We make beer. Period.” Uinta produces certified organic beers and beer in corked bottles. 1722 Fremont Dr., 801-4670909. uintabrewing.com
brewmaster Kevin Templin has a long history in Salt Lake’s beer scene. Expect meticulously made German-style beer and don’t miss game night. 936 S. 300 West, 385-270-5972. tfbrewing.com
Bohemian Brewery Enjoy the lagers
Epic Brewing Company Epic exclusively brews high-alcohol content beer. The brewing facility moved to Colorado, but you can still buy cold beer to-go at the taproom. 825 S. State St., 801-906-0123. epicbrewing. com Shades of Pale Brewing A mom-and-
pop brewery supplying many local restaurants—check the website—stop by their tap room. 2160 S. West Temple, 435-200-3009. shadesofpale.com
Proper Brewery and Burgers From the same proper folks who brought you the Publick House, Proper Brewery and Burgers hugely expands the brewing capacity of the original and adds a burger emporium. 865 Main St., 801-906-8604. properbugerslc.com Fisher Brewing Company Fisher takes
its name from a brewery originally founded in 1884, but the brews and low-key atmosphere are strictly right now. One of the few in town that has cask ale occasionally. 320 W. 800 South, 801-487-2337. fisherbeer.com
Roha The name comes from the owners two names: Rob Phillips and Chris Haas, former brewer for Red Rock Brewery. 30 E. Kensington Ave., 385-227-8982. rohabrewing.com
Kiitos Brewing A rising star, Kiitos brews
are on several menus around town. But if you stop by the brewery to taste, you can play pinball, too. 608 W. 700 South, 801-215-9165. kiitosbrewing.com
147
What’ll It Be? If you’ve ever ordered a drink in a Salt Lake bar, chances are that TONY MARINO has served it. BY JEREMY PUGH
If you ask Tony Marino to list all of the Salt Lake City bars where he’s worked—well, it’s probably easier to just have him tell you the bars where he hasn’t worked. “I never worked at Bar X,” Tony says. “I sort of missed the craft cocktail thing. I started tending bar in 1997 so I’m old. I got really good at making shots and party drinks. ” These days Tony is the tap room manager at Level Crossing but his career reads like a genealogy chart of Salt Lake watering holes. He started at TGIFridays (remember those?) at age 23. Then Porter Rockwells, a State Street bar that became Capones and then Pinky’s strip club. He helped Dave Morris build Piper Down after Shaggy’s Living Room (a short-lived experiment that involved broken video games and D.I. furniture) folded at the 200 South spot that would become the Library, then The Hotel and now is Lake Effect, which seems built to last. Ego’s for a bit then Trolley Wing Company, where he served the now-owner of TWC, Jess Wilkerson, as a regular before Wilkerson bought the joint. Then it was Baci, Gastronomy’s long-gone Italian restaurant on Pierpont Avenue (“Everyone worked for Gastronomy at some point,” he says.) Then onto Green Street in its hopping heyday. “’In the early 2000s you were either a Port O’ Call guy or at Green Street,” he says. “We’d have lines of 100 people waiting to get in at 12:40 a.m.” And the list continues, The Jackalope, the Wood Shed, Bar Name Sue on Highland. Lucky 13, then Dick and Dixies, one of his longest stints. He’s worked at Bourbon House three times, Whiskey Street and White Horse, his last gig at The Ruin and now on to Level Crossing.
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152
my turn
Lessons from the road From McDonald’s to marketing, one HITCHHIKER’S guide to going home BY JOHN SHUFF
I’m a loner, a daydreamer. My report cards in grade school confirmed this; as all my teachers said, “John’s mind wanders off it seems into another world, a world of imagination. He needs to concentrate, to participate more with the class.” Maybe that’s why I didn’t mind hitchhiking. It was the ’50s and we lived in a rural area of Cincinnati, so when I got off the school bus I walked the two miles or hitchhiked home. In the spring, walking was a pick-me-up in the exhilarating spring air, my shirt off, soaking up the warm sun that had finally emerged after a long winter. It was a time to dream, to be alone and when the 40-minute walk ended I was back in the real world of home, the smell of dinner cooking, the sounds of my mom in the kitchen. Other times, like in the dead of winter when it was dark by 4:30 p.m., I’d hitchhike home from the bus stop, hoping for someone to stop and save me from the Midwest chill burning my face. Today “thumbing” is not in vogue. In fact, you almost never see hitchhikers anymore; it’s outlawed in many states. And in my eight years of doing it I only had one uncomfortable situation. A couple stopped and asked me to sit in the front seat between them. I didn’t think about it but thought it was odd. In minutes, man tried to put his hand on my crotch. I grabbed the steering wheel and angrily shouted that if he didn’t stop I would drive the car off the road. When I exited I elbowed the creep in the ribs and pushed his wife out the door. In those days, nothing compared to what I think of as my marathon of hitchhiking: those cold winter nights that found me on the road from Notre Dame in South Bend, Indiana to Cincinnati. The 275-mile trip in
S A LT L A K E M A G A Z I N E . C O M | N O V / D E C 2 0 1 9
the sleet and snow, in freezing temperatures, was grueling. I hit the road after my last class, a scarf wrapped around my face, two sweaters under my jacket and those wonderful insulated gloves that my Mom had bought for me. I “thumbed” to save the cost of a $35 bus ride. In 1958 I earned $46 a week working in a factory and taking the bus was not the
best economic decision. Besides, I enjoyed meeting the people who picked me up. On a few occasions a few jerks stopped and, when I got to their car, pulled away— laughing and giving me the finger; one even mooned me. However, most were friendly and wanted the company and really enjoyed talking about Irish football. After a few tries at the various routes (there were no Interstates in those days) I decided to go through Indianapolis. There wasn’t much difference in the countryside in the winter but in the spring the Indiana farmland reminded me of an Andrew Wyeth painting. But there was another reason for heading to Indianapolis: By-pass 100, a shortcut around the city, and the first place I had ever seen a pair of golden arches, rising like a mirage in the desert. I’d never seen a hamburger drive-in except Frisch’s Big Boy on Reading Road in
Cincinnati. This place was called McDonald’s which was new to my vocabulary but the sign on the arches said “over 100 million hamburgers sold” I was starving after more than four hours on the road so I ordered two cheeseburgers and those delicious thin-cut French fries. In four-years I never missed stopping at this McDonald’s on By-pass 100. My mouth watered when my odyssey began knowing that McDonald’s was only hours away. Years later I still visit their locations at least once a week. Who would ever guess I stopped at what has become an American icon 61 years later. Aside from an early lesson in fast food, hitchhiking taught me something even more important and that was how to market myself. Through trial and error on the road (and interminable waits), I learned to wear a coat and tie. I also made a sign that neatly said, “Notre Dame to Cincinnati.” And what a difference it made. People stopped right away. Most of them wanted to talk about Notre Dame football. Another time I got lucky when a friend of my dad’s picked me up in Indianapolis and drove me all the way home. I learned right away that the sign and my appearance spoke to what prospective rides could expect when they picked me up. Today, that’s what we should expect from everyone we deal with. And yes, I am still a dreamer. My hitchhiking days are long gone but I have not given up the pleasure of a good daydream. As Oscar Wilde so beautifully said, “A dreamer is the only one who can find his way by moonlight, and his punishment is that he sees the dawn before the rest of the world.”
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