Salt Lake Magazine May-June 2022 by Salt Lake Magazine

MAGAZINE OF THE MOUNTAINWEST

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FOR THE LOVE OF THE LAND

HOW REDFORD IGNITED A MOVEMENT TO PROTECT UTAH LANDS

CAVING IN EXPLORE UTAH’S UNDERGROUND PARK CIT Y'S

INCLUDING THIS ONE!

GREATEST UTAH MOVIE MOMENTS

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T H E C H A R L E ST O N D R A P E R E V E N I N G

F I N E

F E S T I V E

D I N I N G

C U I S I N E

Dinner Monday – Saturday 5pm – 10pm

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I N

L U N C H

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W E E K E N D

1 4 6 Y E A R

O L D

Lunch Thursday – Friday 11am – 2pm

B R U N C H

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Brunch Saturday– Sunday 10am – 2pm

Summer Hours 1229 Pioneer Rd, Draper

Reser vations 801.550.9348

Open Table

www.thechar lestondraper.com

C E L E B R AT E

C U I S I N E

M OT H E R S

O F

A N D

E A R LY

D E L I C I O U S

S U M M E R !

My mother was a big part of my life. Her adoration of my work and encouragement to reach my potential got me to where I am today. The Charleston Draper (and a few secret recipes I learned from her) is a testament to her love and support! Happy Mother’s Day to Alice and all mother’s here and abroad. - Chef Marco Silva

Make your move with us.

Suzanne Allred

JoAnne Anderson

Dorthy Androulidakis

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Ginny Bostrom

Marilyn Cooley

Rebecca Duberow

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Sheila Gelman

Karen Hansen

Jeanne Hayes

Jennifer Knight

Martha McMullin

Mary Nothum

Stacey O’Neil

Tiffani Peterson

Karma Ramsey

Helen Rappaport

Gail Sanders

Jenny Sherman

Stephanie Stewart

Jenni Thompson

Sally Ware

– Decades of experience – Dedicated to our community – Determined to find your perfect home.

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MAY/JUNE 2022

PHOTO STUART RUCKMAN

contents

FEATURES

ON THE COVER PHOTO: MARY EVANS/ AF ARCHIVE/EVERETT COLLECTION

In Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid, Robert Redford plays a notorious outlaw, shooting across Utah.

56 66 UTAH MOVIE ROAD TRIP: MOMENTS

OREGON

74 FOR THE LOVE

BY CHRISTIE PORTER

BY TONY GILL

BY MELISSA FIELDS

From the days of Little Hollywood, to the founding of the Sundance Film Festival and beyond, here are Utah’s greatest movie moments (and some of the moments we’d rather forget).

Whether indoors at a too-cool underground venue in Portland with a craft beer in hand or outdoors among the towering evergreens, there’s no shortage of adventure in the Beaver State.

Robert Redford’s legacy extends beyond Sundance and the film festival. The movie star helped ignite Utah’s land preservation movement with help from a cowgirl and multigenerational rancher.

OF THE LAND

MAY /J UNE 2022

SALTLAKEMAGAZINE.COM

contents

23 the hive BY SALT L AKE STAFF

Show your Pride this June by supporting queer-friendly businesses. Meet the man who helped keep jazz alive in Utah, the award-winning chef behind the jazz-age inspired Charleston and the interesting characters who gather at the Duck Pond.

43 park city BY TONY GILL

We examine the factors that led to a tumultuous ski season. Catch up with Park City native and Olympian mogul skier Nick Page. And who has the best burger in Park City?

on the table BY SALT L AKE STAFF

A new Mediterranean bistro from the owners of Silver Star Café and Davis County gets a new upscale Latin dining experience with Niño Viejo.

107 bar fly BY SALT L AKE STAFF

A great shakeup in Utah’s craft beer industry brings back two brewery founding fathers.

112

last page BY JEREMY PUGH

You’re not a real Utahn until you’ve tried a pastrami burger.

volume 33 number 3 Salt Lake magazine (ISSN# 1524-7538) is published bimonthly (February, April, June, August, October and December) by Utah Partners Publishing, Ltd. Editorial, advertising and administrative offices: 515 S. 700 East, Suite 3i, SLC, UT 84102. Telephone 801-485-5100; fax 801-485-5133. Subscriptions: One year ($24.95); for shipping outside the U.S. add $45. Toll-free subscription number: 877-553-5363. Periodicals Postage Paid at Salt Lake City, Utah, and additional mailing offices. Copyright 2022, JES Publishing Corp. No whole or part of the contents may be reproduced in any manner without prior written permission of Salt Lake magazine, excepting individually copyrighted articles and photographs. Manuscripts accompanied by SASE are accepted, but no responsibility will be assumed for unsolicited contributions. POSTMASTER: Send address corrections to Salt Lake magazine, PO Box 820, Boca Raton, FL 33429.

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A S S I S TA N T A R T D I R E C T O R

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E X ECU TIV E EDITOR

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M A N AG I N G E D I T O R

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Avrey Evans, Melissa Fields, Trent Harris, Caitlyn Nichols A RT DIR ECTOR

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Salt Lake magazine is published six times a year by Utah Partners Publishing, Ltd. The entire contents of Salt Lake magazine are copyrighted and may not be reproduced without the expressed written consent of the publisher. Salt Lake magazine accepts no responsibility for the return of unsolicited manuscripts and/or photographs and assumes no liability for products or services advertised herein. Salt Lake magazine reserves the right to edit, rewrite or refuse material and is not responsible for products. Please refer to corporate masthead.

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The Canyon art installation by Gordon Huether

PHASE 2 IS COMING IN 2023-24. It’s been a year since The New Salt Lake International Airport opened its doors and gates to the world. The views, the technology, the efficiencies, the space—they’ve all helped make The New SLC Airport one of the most modern and beautiful to travel through. But we’re not done yet and The New SLC is going to get even better. Work on Phase 2 (set for completion in 2023-2024) has begun, and when finished, will offer even more flights to more destinations, more shops, more restaurants, more art installations, and shorter walking distances between terminals. Get to know all about your new SLC at slcairport.com

Movie Magic IN 19 91, M Y HIGH SCHO OL FRIEND

Jane asked me if I wanted to go to a movie premiere at the Tower Theatre. Jane was (and is) a weird kid who was plugged into the weirder side of the city, and I pretty much followed her down any rabbit hole she suggested. And thus, I found myself sitting in an audience with Crispin Glover, a puppet cat, and a guy in a Shady Brady hat up front who was giving out door prizes that included a jar of salsa that his mother had made. That guy was the filmmaker, Trent Harris, and the film was Rubin & Ed. Crispin Glover enshrined his handprints outside the Tower Theatre, and my friend Jane won the salsa. The film, a buddy flick starring Glover and the late Howard Hesseman, who is best known for his character Dr. Johnny Fever on television’s WKRP in Cincinnati, was filmed entirely in Salt Lake City and Cen-

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tral Utah locations like Goblin Valley and Factory Butte. (Also, there’s a dead, frozen cat that could eat a whole watermelon.) Rubin & Ed is, in my estimation, required reading for any Utahn and, for the young me, it was a realization that Utah was actually pretty cool. Seeing familiar places on the big screen elevated my appreciation of home, And duh, I soon figured out, there were lots and lots of movies made here. We even had a movie star living up in Provo Canyon, which of course, is our cover model Robert Redford, pictured in his role as the Sundance Kid alongside Paul Newman’s Butch Cassidy. We decided to take a look at all the movie magic that has happened in Utah and have compiled a list of 10 of the iconic films made in here plus 51 others (“Utah Movie Moments,” page 56) of varying degrees of bad and good, including Rubin & Ed (good). And that got us thinking about Mr. Redford. The Sundance kid lent his celebrity to Utah and, as our writer Mellisa Fields discovered (“For the Love of the Land,” page 74), helped inspire and shape a movement to protect and preserve some of Utah’s most beautiful landscapes. And Trent Harris? He’s still making movies and art here in Utah. In this issue, he shares excerpts from his book Today at the Duck Pond (page 26), a through-thelooking-glass chronicle of his visits to feed the ducks in Sugar House park during the lockdown. He still, however, will not share his mother’s salsa recipe.

Jeremy Pugh

COURTESY JOHN HESS/PRORASO USA

EDITOR’S LETTER

Dr. Eric Heiden, Orthopedic Surgeon, World Champion and 5 Time Olympic Gold Medalist

THE HIVE

PHOTO JEREMY PUGH

T R A V E L

P E O P L E

MAKING UP FOR LOST PRIDES

O U T D O O R S

TA H P R I D E I S B A C K and promises to be bigger than ever!

The 200-foot rainbow Pride flag will once again grace the streets of Salt Lake City. After scaling way back during the pandemic, the Utah Pride Center is making up for lost time by hosting 14 events during Pride Week, including the Pride Parade (with their longest ever route), Festival (with more food, entertainment and vendors) and Glow March. “I AM Utah Pride” is the theme of 2022 Pride Week, which runs May 29–June 5. For Pride Week updates visit utahpridecenter.org

MAY /J UNE 2022

SALTLAKEMAGAZINE.COM

THE HIVE

SHOP

TAKE PRIDE IN WHERE YOU SHOP

UNDER THE UMBRELLA BOOKSTORE (511 W. 200 South, Ste. 120, SLC, undertheumbrellabookstore.com) Under the Umbrella specifically caters to the queer community. Owner Kaitlyn Mahoney opened the shop after a successful crowdfunding campaign as a way to provide a safe gathering place. Every book in the store is either queer in content and/or written by queer authors, and all of the other items available—candles, tea, mugs, bags, accessories, jewelry—are made by queer artists and makers.

How to support queer-friendly retail BY CHRISTIE PORTER

H E R E I S N O ethical consumption under

capitalism. We’ll save the full economics lecture for another time, but, in some ways, where we spend our money can matter. Choosing to shop at a local, small boutique or shop could make all of the difference for those businesses, and more of that money is likely to flow back into our local economy. Throw in the incentive that some businesses work to be safe places for the LGBTQ+ community, and maybe you can feel just a little better about where you spend your dough. For your consideration, here are a few members of the Utah LGBTQ Chamber of Commerce (utahlgbtqchamber.org) and other queer-friendly shops.

(6410 Business Park Loop Rd., Ste. H, Park City, cultandking.com) Maker of natural, sustainable hair and shave products for the entire gender spectrum.

FRIAR TUCK’S BARBERSHOP (11 W. 1700 South, SLC, friartucksbarbershop.com) A gender-inclusive barbershop (that lists C+K among the products they use).

PANTRY PRODUCTS (830 S. 500 West, Ste. B, SLC, shoppantryproducts.com)

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Maker of plant-based, crueltyfree health and beauty products. LGBTQ Chamber member.

CLEVER OCTOPUS CREATIVE REUSE CENTER (2250 S. West Temple, South Salt Lake, cleveroctopus.org) A non-profit offering discounted art supplies and craft materials as well as workshops.

GENDERBANDS (1160 S. State St. #60, Orem, genderbands.org) A nonprofit selling wristbands to help transgender people pay for transition-related costs.

M AY/JU NE 2 0 2 2

STREUSEL (67 W. 1700 South, South Salt Lake, streuselslc.com) A “judgment-free” bakery and patisserie, headed by an awardwinning pastry chef.

SWEET HAZEL & CO. VEGAN BAKESHOP (167 W. 4500 South, Murray, sweethazelandco.com) A queer-owned bakeshop that serves vegan baked goods and vegan candy.

SUGAR HOUSE COFFEE (2011 S. 1100 East, SLC, sugarhousecoffee.com) An inclusive place to grab a

fresh brew, a bite, hang out and catch some live local tunes.

LAZIZ KITCHEN (912 S. Jefferson St., SLC, lazizkitchen.com) A queer-owned Mediterranean restaurant and purveyor of hummus with a warm and welcoming atmosphere.

THE COPPER ONION (111 E. Broadway #170, SLC, thecopperonion.com) Member of a family of restaurants, including Copper Common, Copper Kitchen and The Daily, and of the Utah LGBTQ Chamber.

PHOTO ADAM FINKLE

CULT + KING

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Institutional Support

The Nature of Color is organized by the American Museum of Natural History, New York (www.amnh.org)

THE HIVE

SATIR E

TODAY AT THE DUCK POND A chronicle of the first few months of the coronavirus lockdown in 2020 BY TRENT HARRIS

N T H E E A R LY M O N T H S of the pandemic lockdown, local filmmaker Trent Harris started documenting his regular trips to visit the duck pond in Sugar House Park. He compiled his observations into a book called Today at the Duck Pond, below are some excerpts from the project. This is more than a love story between a man and a duck. There is also a chicken involved and…Madonna. (More on Harris’ cult classic in Utah Movie Moments, page 65.) T O D AY AT T H E D U C K P O N D …

I went to Sugar House Park today and had a long conversation with the ducks. Me and the ducks are on the same page, no doubt. So, I got that goin’ for me. I need to get more stuff going for me. Maybe I should get a job? Ah…a lot of people don’t know that ducks never get cold feet. I know it. It’s one of those things you pick up when you sell worms. But besides being brave, ducks also express love and recognition to humans. They are like dogs that way except ducks can change their sex. BBC did a documentary on it. I am not sure why. But there is a dark side to ducks. They sleep with one eye open, and in a 1999 study, it was proven that only half the duck’s brain was asleep. Ducks are our courageous half-brained friends and they have three eyelids so they can see when they duck deep dive. I just love ducks. T O D AY AT T H E D U C K P O N D …

I was missing my pet chicken, Rosie. We lived together in Los Angeles and she was a good chicken. People don’t know this but chickens can be quite affectionate. She enjoyed being petted and I liked stroking her feathers. When my mother visited, she would make Rosie cheese toast. What is so wrong about love between a man and a chicken, as long as it doesn’t go too far? She lived in my backyard in her chicken house under a Tasmanian fig tree. How romantic. So, there was a big Hollywood party in the backyard and I threw a chair into the barbecue. I had to leave Hollywood and I would

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have taken Rosie with me but the dog next door ate her! Now, do you understand why I hate L.A.? And why I will never work in that town again, only I never had a job there anyway! Ha! And the rumors floating around about me and Madonna have got to stop. Yes, we “knew” each other. But I can say no more. And yes, there was that one time on the beach that, if I could tell you about, the universe would just explode. So, I won’t. She was living in a house in the hills above Malibu that she bought from Olivia NewtonJohn. It burned down. After that, things were never the

same. She seemed distant. Then she left Sean and then Sean got really weird and wouldn’t dress up like Olivia anymore. See what I mean! Hollywood! It’s a nuthouse! T O D AY AT T H E D U C K P O N D …

There have been reports of a crackpot hanging out by the duck pond threatening people. I have not seen him but the bugger better not show up on my watch. The duck pond needs to be a safe place where ducks and people can just get along. The ducks paddle around quacking while people bring their dogs to poop. It is just like America. What happened to America? I hate people who throw bread in the duck pond. I don’t like to hate. I love spring! I love frogs. I really love chickens and I am nuts for ducks. And ants are fascinating. Did you know a queen ant can live to be 30 years old unless some meanie steps on her or smashes her house? I have a wonderful ant farm, hours of fun. Anyway, as America unravels, the ducks at the pond are coming together. They have a plan. It is an escape plan. I want to go with them but I can’t fly. What happened, America? Even the ducks want to split. We need to get back on track America! We need to get back on track. T O D AY AT T H E D U C K P O N D …

ILLUSTRATIONS BY TRENT HARRIS

This guy walks up and says, “Do you comb your hair with a balloon?” And I say no. Then he asks me if I know where San Francisco is and I say “yes.” Then he tells me he is the CEO of a great big famous tech com-

pany. Then his friend, Kenny walks up and asks me for a quarter. So, I gave him a quarter. Then Tech Giant and Kenny head over to Mr. Softy’s ice cream truck and a Chevy pulls up blaring the worst sounding music in the world and a gaggle of high school girls gets out and they head for the ice cream truck, too. Mr. Softy starts yelling at Kenny about something so Kenny goes over by the garbage can and Tech Giant comes back to me and says, “Get a load of the babes.” Now Kenny has his head in the garbage can and he comes up with a falling apart straw hat and he puts it on. The girls get back in the Chevy, the gawdawful music starts, they drive off. Kenny comes up and says, “Too bad the chicks left, I was about to bust a move.” I said, “You got ketchup on your hat.” And Kenny says, “I know man! I didn’t just fall off a turnip truck!” Maybe I really should get a job or something like that. T O D AY AT T H E D U C K P O N D …

I suspect there are agents at the duck pond. There’s a red-headed twerp on a phone and a guy up on the hill with some binoculars. And a helicopter buzzed by about an hour ago. So, I mosey over by the phone twerp and say, “Portland?” He pretends not to hear me. So. I say, “Portland, Portland, Portland? Ever been to Portland?” Then I say “I read you loud and clear, ten four, over and out.” And the guy on the hill starts watching us with his binoculars. So, I wave and the guy with binocs looks away

Trent Harris’ book (complete with his abstract duck illustrations), Today at the Duck Pond: The Complete Collection, is available at Ken Sanders Rare Books and online through echocave.net.

really quick. Then I say, “Border Patrol? Sprechen sie Deutsch?” And phone twerp says, “What are you talking about? And I whisper, “Don’t mess with the ducks. This is America.” Phone twerp hurried away. We’ve got to be vigilant. T O D AY AT T H E D U C K P O N D …

I decided to set up the ol’ chessboard on the grass and hope for a game. The ducks watched. All was fine. Then Lucifer, the goose, approached. I stood up. A lot of people don’t know what a goose can do to a chessboard, but I do. Lucifer kind of looked around and pretended to be talking to the ducks. I hear the woman yelling, “The goose is eating your chess people!” Lucifer flies out into the middle of the pond with my white rook in his beak! Then the lady says, “That is so cute that that goose wants to eat all of your chess people.” Then the woman gets a call on her stupid phone and I hear her say, “Oh, I am taking pictures of weirdos at the duck pond.” I look around to see if there are any weirdos and I see more geese. They are coming my way. I know what they are thinking. I grabbed my tree branch and went after them. The lady snapped a picture of me chasing the geese around the ol’ chessboard, got in her car and left. OK, I am getting a job. T O D AY AT T H E D U C K P O N D …

Ducks and beer got me through the virus lockdown. What happened, America? What am I talking about? Who am I? I was posing these questions to the ducks and they just sat there. No help. When did “Land of the Free, Home of the Brave” give way to Fortress of the Frightened and Greedy? How come I can’t get the lid off an Aspirin jar? Why are people mad at Mexicans? I like Mexicans. Lots of ducks and old people go to Mexico in the winter because it’s a great place. When my dog died I buried him in the backyard. I put up Christmas lights, I lit candles, I put his collar in a safe, I put his doggie dish in my special box, I put pictures of him on the wall. It has been over 25 years and I still dream about that dog. What happened, America? Where did you go? Do you need a proper burial? Will I dream about America when I am dead?

MAY /J UNE 2022

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THE HIVE

HIGH PROFILE

NEITHER FAST NOR CASUAL Chef Marco Silva’s Charleston aims to elevate BY JEREMY PUGH

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M AY/JUNE 2 0 2 2

worked in the Hilton in Dubai, a luxury hotel in Papua New Guinea, private rail cars across the United States and made a name for himself as a private chef cooking in residences in New York, Boca Raton, Dallas and, finally, Park City, which, eventually leads this award-winning, globe-trotting chef and his partner Steve Cappellucci to a 150-year-old home in Draper. He met Naomi Martinsen, who owned the Terry Home, built in 1878 by Joshua Terry, a mountain man, scout and Indian interpreter for LDS Presidents Brigham Young and John Taylor and one of the first settlers to explore Draper after the LDS emigration to Utah in 1847.

Martinsen was looking to sell the property, which, at that point, she was running as The Charleston Café, a small coffee shop. Silva met her for lunch to discuss the property and the story might have just stopped there. “She was getting older and thinking of selling the restaurant,” he says. “But at that point, I wasn’t really thinking about owning a restaurant in Utah. ” Then, the very next night, Martinsen happened to be a guest at one of Silva’s dinners at a private home in Sandy. She came back to the kitchen to compliment the chef and was pleasantly surprised to find Silva in the kitchen.

PHOTOS ADAM FINKLE

T I S T H E U N L I K E L I E S T of locations, set amid subdivisions and stray parcels of soon-to-be-sold family land in Draper. Set back from the road, in a historic Victorian home surrounded by shady oaks, you’ll find The Charleston Draper—an ode to civilization and high style that is the life’s work of its impresario-chef Marco Silva. Silva was born in São Paulo, Brazil where he first learned to cook at a young age. His mother, a classical violinist and accomplished musician in the San Paulo symphony, however, did not foresee her son in chef’s whites and sent him to Lisbon to study classical piano. Alas, the food and nightlife of Lisbon entranced young Silva, and after graduation from Lisbon Academy, he followed his passion to Paris, where he funded his coursework at no less than the Le Cordon Bleu by playing piano in nightclubs around the City of Lights. Trés romantique, no? “My mother was disappointed at first,” he says. “But when she saw me cook for the first time, saw what joy it brought me, that I was performing a different kind of music, she understood. I am lucky to have a mother who only wants me to be happy. And the gift of music I will always have, thanks to her.” (As is evidenced by the two baby grand pianos in The Charleston, where he often sits and plays.) From that moment, Chef Marco embarked on a journey literally around the world. To name just a few stamps on his passport, he has

Silva, however, was still not quite certain he wanted to open a restaurant in Utah but the Charleston intrigued him. “The moment I first pulled into the parking lot I thought, ‘this place is gorgeous.’” But then, in November of 2017, shortly after first meeting her, Martinsen died suddenly of cancer. “It was very emotional and I told Steve, ‘we have to do this,’” he says. “We signed the papers and opened The Charleston Draper on Nov. 7, 2017. It was meant to be.” You are probably by now realizing that Chef Marco doesn’t do anything halfway and once he was in, he was all-in. He and Cappellucci completely renovated and upgraded the 150-year-old building, expanding the coffee shop into five dining rooms on two floors and expanded patio and garden spaces. They installed old-world touches like elegant crystal chandeliers and decorating embellishments inspired by years of global travel, sweating over every detail down to trickling Italian fountain on the oak-shaded patio.

His international sensibilities touch everything from the classic cuisine to, yes, the restaurant’s dress code and adults-only policy. “I was raised in Brazil and spent many years in Europe,” he says. “Until I was 12 years old, I didn’t participate in parties with adults. I have fond memories of going to the opera house in Paris in a black tie. You don’t bring babies into a fine dining restaurant or show

up in flip flops or pajamas. Now I share my standards here. We have discovered that our guests truly want a place to dress up, a place where they can be together as couples and friends and share an experience.”

THE CHARLESTON 1229 Pioneer Road, Draper 801-550-9348, thecharlestondraper.com

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ST Y LE

HELLO, SUNSHINE YELLOW

(ACCESSORIES-TOP TO BOTTOM) Madeline summer hat, $38, Koo De Ker, SLC; Palm Spring tote, $70, Koo De Ker, SLC; Hoff Hela Woman’s sneakers, $159, Mary Jane’s, Park City; Santa Barbra silicone wine glasses, $15, Mary Jane’s, Park City; Dolce Vita Indy sandal, $75, nordstrom.com. (CLOTHING -LEFT TO RIGHT) L Space float on one piece swimsuit, $179; Mary Jane’s, Park City; Greylin Jordan hand crochet vest, $99, Mary Jane’s, Park City; Cashmere bralette, $75, mini skirt, $125 boyfriend cardigan, $175, Zenzee, Park City, shopzenzee.com; Regan Swiss dot dress, $74, Koo De Ker, SLC; Tabitha embroidered dress, $158, Koo De Ker, SLC.

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PHOTO ADAM FINKLE / STYLING JEANINE MILLER

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YOU LIKE JAZZ?

Gordon Hanks helps keep America’s music alive in SLC BY JOSH PETERSEN

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ORDON HANKS DIDN’T GROW U P in a musical family. Raised by a

single mother and grandmother, there wasn’t enough money for Hanks to purchase an instrument or take private lessons, and he doesn’t recall listening to music much as a child. Decades later, though, Hanks is undoubtedly an influential figure in the Utah music community—despite the fact that he still hasn’t picked up an instrument. As the co-founder and producer of JazzSLC, he has spent more than 27 years as a passionate evangelist and leader for jazz music in Utah. “Jazz is America’s music,” he says. “Our only true art form is jazz.” Hanks has spread his love for America’s music and welcomed dozens of world-class musicians to perform in Utah.

Hanks’ love for jazz started in public school, of all places. When a music appreciation teacher at the now-closed Granite High School in South Salt Lake introduced his class to the genre, Hanks was immediately captivated. He still remembers the album that hooked him—Ahmad Jamal’s At the Pershing: But Not for Me. “That single recording changed my life,” he says. Throughout college and his career as the owner of Holladay Pharmacy, Hanks remained a dedicated fan of jazz music—he sold CDs at the pharmacy and was a regular listener of Wes Bowen’s nightly KUER show All That Jazz. While there were some venues for live jazz music in Utah, by the 1990s Hanks noticed that performances were dwindling. With his friend and fellow jazz lover Michael MacKay, he founded JazzSLC with the mission of bringing the world’s best jazz musicians to the Beehive State. Neither had any experience in concert production, but through a combination of passion and naïveté, they forged ahead anyway. “We were both so damn dumb, we didn’t know that we couldn’t do it,” Hanks laughs. Hanks and McKay sought advice from Lynn Skinner, who ran the University of Idaho’s Lionel Hampton Jazz Festival, and they contributed their own money to launch the concerts. They started small, with about 200 people at the inaugural performance. In an unusual move, the series’ very first performer, Gene Harris, helped contact and book other musicians. “Harris was the one who made the phone calls for me and said, ‘These idiots in Salt Lake City don’t know anything about producing jazz concerts, but trust me, they will pay you,’” Hanks says. He recalls, with some embarrassment, that they invited some of the biggest names in jazz to perform in an unassuming hotel ballroom. (The concert series moved to its current home at the Capitol Theatre in 2009.) Still, JazzSLC built a loyal following, and the caliber of musicians was no joke—the 1997-98 series, JazzSLC’s third season, included legends like Dave Brubeck, George Shearing, Diana Krall and Herbie Hancock. JazzSLC, now closing its 26th season, remains an essential home for jazz fans (no, not those Jazz fans) in Utah. Though the concerts have grown significantly since 1995, to stay afloat, the nonprofit still relies on extra donations from season ticket holders, funds from the ZAP Program and large yearly gifts from an anonymous “jazz angel” who supports the series. Hanks is happy to stay behind-the-scenes and out of the spotlight, and while it may seem

PHOTO ADAM FINKLE

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counterintuitive, he believes this is a key part of building a relationship with both audiences and performers. “It’s about the art form and the artists,” he says. Hanks proudly labels his music taste as “mainstream”—JazzSLC favors a straightforward style, eschewing funk, fusion or avant-garde jazz. He aims to invite artists who please both longtime fans and win over new converts. “The jazz we present is not the esoteric, strange stuff that sometimes people think jazz is,” he says. “They actually play music that you recognize.” Hanks says to keep the medium alive, it’s essential to connect younger audiences with jazz. “Listening to music on the radio or a CD or Spotify, that’s okay, but a live performance is where you really understand what the art form’s about,” he says. Hanks and his wife Connie have started a scholarship fund through their nonprofit the GAM Foundation. For more than two decades, Gordon and Connie have supported Jazz Studies students at the University of Utah’s School of Music. (They

JAZZ IS AMERICA’S MUSIC. OUR ONLY TRUE ART FORM IS JAZZ.” –GORDON HANKS, JAZZSLC still see many of the recipients at JazzSLC concerts.) The Hanks also reach out to middle school, high school and college teachers and band directors, offering discounted tickets for music students. What does the future look like for JazzSLC? “I don’t really have a great answer for that,” Hanks admits. At 78, the remarkably energetic Hanks still runs JazzSLC with his daughter Amanda Lufkin, who serves as Executive Director. He hopes to find someone that will continue the legacy of JazzSLC, but any possible successor needs some very specific qualifications. “Number one, they’ve got to do a lot of work for no pay,” Hanks says. “Number

two, they’ve got to be willing to put money in to keep a series alive. Number three, they have to have a passion and love for the art form and do it just for that.” No pressure right? “If I could find that person I would hug and kiss them, but I haven’t found that person yet.” JazzSLC’s long-term prospects may still be in question, but for now Hanks is just happy to be back listening to his favorite music live and in person. While it’s no secret that jazz is no longer at the center of pop music, Hanks has built a community of fans who care about the art form and welcomed students who may be, like he was, secret jazz fanatics just waiting for that first spark. He’s also established relationships with his favorite artists, many of whom regularly return to perform in SLC. In a full circle moment, Hanks now considers Jamal, the man who first inspired his deep love of jazz, a close friend. “I think the artists completely understand that it’s not just another gig,” he says. “It’s something a little special. And I think we get great performances because they love being here.”

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FOOD

FREEZE-DRYING FRENZY What happens when you freeze-dry candy? Magic. BY JEREMY PUGH

O U K N O W H O W S O M E T I M E S you’ve never heard about something

and then, once you hear about it, you see and hear about it everywhere? Carl Jung called this phenomenon “synchronicity” and we’ve got some serious synchronicity going on here with freeze-dried candy. Yes. It’s a thing we just heard about and now it’s everywhere we look. And, of course, Utah is all about it. See, Utah is into food storage, canning, preserving and setting aside a sizeable food supply for, well, the “latter days.” Yes, it’s a Mormon thing, but it’s also just plain practical. And practical is our jam (or preserve?). About 10 years ago, a Utah company called Harvest Right rolled out a consumer-grade freeze dryer that went over like gangbusters here in the home of the well-stocked pantry.

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Commercial freeze dryers cost a bundle but, suddenly, the same technology that brought us astronaut ice cream, Dippin’ Dots and gourmet backpacking meals appeared in homes. These devices were purchased under the guise of dutiful food storing and healthy meal preparation but it was obviously not long before somebody was like, “Hey, what happens when I put some Skittles in this thing?” What happens is magic. Freeze drying removes moisture and skittles puff up (like popped kernels) and burst into a whole new way to “taste the rainbow.” And it’s not just Skittles, although they are popular, says Harvest Right owner Matt Neville. “Freeze dryers alter the candy into a new kind of fizzy, crunchy thing,” he says, “People are trying Jolly Ranchers, gummy bears, Milk Duds, Junior Mints, everything.” There are dozens of YouTube videos dedicated to the practice and, Neville says, it has also sparked new home-based businesses and other entrepreneurial efforts. For example, Richerd Clark, who, along with his wife, owns the American Fork location of Jack’s Donuts, started selling freeze-dried candy in the shop, online and wholesale to grocery stores under the name Salt City Treats. “The pandemic gave us a reason to try it and, frankly, now we do more candy sales than our bakery products,” Clark says. “People want their sugar.”

JACK’S DONUTS

HARVEST RIGHT

456 E. State St., American Fork jacksdonuts.com saltcitytreats.com

95 N. Foxboro Dr., North Salt Lake City harvestright.com

PHOTOS COURTESY HARVEST RIGHT

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STATEWATCH

STATE OF THE BREW-NION From acquisitions to restrictions, big shake-ups hit Utah’s craft brewing industry BY CHRISTIE PORTER

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Mark Medura founded Level Crossing Brewing in 2019

IF YOU GO… LEVEL CROSSING BREWING Taproom hours: Sunday–Thursday 11 a.m. –10 p.m. Friday & Saturday 11 a.m. – 11 p.m. 2496 S. West Temple, South Salt Lake levelcrossingbrewing.com

UINTA BREWERY Brewhouse Pub & General Store hours: Monday–Thursday 11 a.m.–7 p.m. Friday 11 a.m.–8 p.m. Saturday 11 a.m.–6 p.m. Closed Sunday 1722 S. Fremont Dr., SLC uintabrewing.com

largest independent craft brewer. Uinta Brewery’s leadership, operations and staff will remain in place. “There will be no visible change to the public,” says Jeremy Ragonese, President of Uinta Brewing. “We’ll continue to invest in our brewers and people and develop the brand here in Utah.” The acquisitions, says Ragonese, demonstrate how difficult it can be for Utah craft brewers to grow their business. “The challenges of growth are inherent everywhere,” he says. “We’re always concerned with the restrictions put in place in terms of how we produce our products.” The debate over selling

PHOTO ADAM FINKLE

H E N I T C O M E S to Utah’s liquor laws, it’s always one step forward and two steps back for local craft breweries. In 2021, the Utah State Legislature raised the alcohol by volume percentage allowed for beers sold in grocery stores to 5% from 4% ABV. This year, the legislature passed a bill that removes half of the available hard seltzers from the grocery store. The legislature also debated raising the excise tax on the manufacture of beer by tying it to inflation. When Utah craft brewers need to defend their interests from the state legislature, that’s where the Utah Brewers Guild comes in. “The guild is meant to bring the brewers together with one collective voice when we need to lobby legislators,” says Mark Medura, the current board chair of the Utah Brewers Guild and founder of Level Crossing Brewing Company. Medura says brewers reached an understanding with legislators to put the excise tax debate on the backburner for now, “We already have one of the highest excise taxes. We just wanted to make sure they understood where we were coming from, from an economic standpoint, and find common ground, if there is any. We think we were successful in educating the legislature.” Even before the legislative session began, this year has already seen great shake-ups for Utah’s craft brewers. The largest Utah-based breweries, Uinta Brewery and CANarchy Craft Brewery Collective (which includes Squatters Craft Beers and Wasatch Brewery) were acquired by two national companies. Monster Beverage Corporation gobbled up Squatters and Wasatch in a $300-million-dollar deal (more on that in Bar Fly on page 110), and US Beverage acquired Uinta, Utah’s

“WE WOULD JUST LIKE TO BE ABLE TO SELL ANY BEER THAT WE PRODUCE.”

PHOTO COURTESY UNITA BREWERY

—MARK MEDURA, BOARD CHAIR, UTAH BREWERS GUILD; FOUNDER/CEO, LEVEL CROSSING BREWING COMPANY

hard seltzers in the grocery store, for instance, comes down to a technicality in the manufacturing process. While they’re all still 5% ABV, in some hard seltzers alcohol is added with flavoring rather than achieved through fermentation. “The legal definition of beer, which seltzers fall under, needs to be updated,” says Ragonese, who says Uinta is planning to release new flavors of its own Westwater Hard Seltzer. Existing restrictions on selling their products directly to consumers are also of particular concern. “We would just like to be able to sell any beer that we produce,” says Medura. For instance, heavy beers (anything over 5% ABV) have to be sold at the DABC store. “In order for us to serve that to consume at our taproom we need a bar license. So, we are vying for those same competitive licenses as bars.” Medura says, for a single license available in February 2022, there were as many as 15 establishments lining up. That’s why they’re looking into a workaround. “We’re exploring with legislators, over the next couple of sessions, the possibility of breweries getting their own set of licenses,” says Medura. Even with the challenges, Medura says the craft brewing industry in Utah is growing, and the success of Utah craft brewers on the national stage could be due to the constraints. “Utah brewers have to get creative to have great tasting, full-flavored, full-bodied beer at a low-point ABV. Alcohol content doesn’t bring everything to the beer, and Utah brewers are innovative with raw materials to produce delicious beers. Even before the increase to 5%, Utah brewers were still winning national awards.” Rangonese also lauds the scrappiness of Utah’s craft brewers. “Despite the headwinds, it’s a great place to do business with a lot of really inspiring people making great beers. Utah is represented by some of the most award-winning breweries across the country. Utahns should take great pride.” Both breweries have made their share of award-winning brews and plan to make more. Level Crossing’s head brewer Chris Detrich won

nine national awards in 2021. Medura is particularly proud of the Cryptoporticus, which won a gold medal at the US Beer Tasting Championships. It is a sour double IPA that taps into a brewing trend that has him excited—using an innovative yeast strain called “Philly Sour.” Uinta’s lagers and other traditional styles have been particularly well-received, including their 801, Wasangeles and Lime Pilsner. “We continue to explore other types of beers,” says Ragonese, including “cold” beers, which refers to the type of fermentation process, and growing their variety of flavors with their Pro-Line. “What’s happening right now is an explosion in style variations and processes that may appear scary on the outside, but it’s just expanding the range of available products, making them more flavorful,” says Ragonese. “I hope we can continue to educate the decision-makers on the process and innovation.” Regardless, Utah’s craft brewers are not going anywhere (despite the best efforts of some in the state legislature), and brewers are helping each other to make sure as many breweries succeed as possible. “We’re happy and proud to be a part of this very tight-knit community. We help each other out, call each other if we need ingredients, that kind of thing. We’re all passionate about producing great beer. There have been many breweries to come before us, and we pay homage to them and the thousands of beers that came before,” says Medura. “We just want to have fun. Beer should be fun.”

Snapshot:

UTAH’S CRAFT BREWERS

craft breweries in 2020 (up from 16 breweries in 2011)

$477

million in economic impact

171,827

barrels of craft beer produced per year —via the Craft Brewers Association

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OU TDOORS

THE UTAH UNDERGROUND Exploring the wonders of the subterranean realm BY TONY GILL

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Y PA L M S A R E S W E AT I N G . Heart racing. Chest tight. It’s strange because I’m sitting on a couch in my living room and haven’t moved in over an hour, but I can’t help it. Watching disoriented cave divers in the documentary The Rescue, about the effort to save a youth soccer team trapped deep in a cave in Thailand, led to claustrophobia by proxy. I’ve had a similar reaction reading passages explaining a psychological condition affecting cavers

PHOTO JAY DROWNS / UTAH OFFICE OF TOURISM

Timpanogos Cave

referred to as the rapture in a book called Blind Descent. It’s paradoxically horrifying and alluring to imagine oneself wriggling through the tight underground passages. There’s a pull to the unexplored realm beneath our feet. Even I, an admittedly claustrophobic person, feel it. While the distinctly mountainous skyline is Utah’s best-known feature, the caverns below hold underappreciated wonders just out of sight. Explore Utah’s caves—don’t worry, no ropes or specialized scuba gear required—from the Wasatch to the desert south and everywhere in between. Bloomington Cave

PHOTOS: (TOP) COURTESY BLM; (BOTTOM) JAY DROWNS / UTAH OFFICE OF TOURISM

Timpanogos Cave

UTAH CAVING FOR BEGINNERS All the caves we’re talking about are nontechnical, horizontal caves. In some, you’ll have to endure tight squeezes and sloped floors by crawling, chimneying, scrambling and the like. If you’re able to wriggle around in rocky, dirty passages, these caves shouldn’t prove impassable. Anything more technical than these, however, and you should seek some professional guidance and specialized gear. Remember that caves are delicate and fragile ecosystems that took thousands to millions of years to form, so leave them better than you found them. Don’t alter caves in any way, leave nothing behind and take nothing from the cave but pictures. Time to explore the Utah underground.

WHAT TO BRING

You won’t need much specialized gear for the caves mentioned here, but as we get down the list you’re going to want to bring more of the items listed below. Caves can be dark, wet, rocky, slippery and cold, so plan accordingly.

HELMET A UIAA certified helmet (think a climbing helmet) like the Half Dome from local Utah gear company Black Diamond ($60)

HEADLAMPS Three light sources (running out of light underground is a nightmare scenario and two should be hands free) like the ultra-lightweight Petzl Bindi ($45)

HIKING BOOTS Something with sturdy ankle protection and decent grip in the wet preferred, such as the Lone Peak All Weather Hiker from Utah company Altra ($170)

SMALL BAG Oval waterproof bags like the PVC-free Petzl Personnel Pack ($99) keep snacks, water, first aid kit and other necessities dry without getting stuck in tight passages

COVERALLS OR STURDY LONG SLEEVES AND PANTS Carhartt and Dickies for the win because you’re going to get dirty LEATHER GLOVES Rocks are hard on unprotected hands

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POLYPROPYLENE LONG UNDERWEAR Wicking, non-cotton base layers keep you warm when wet KNEE PADS Just like hands, rocks are hard on unprotected knees

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tube with just enough room to crawl through on your belly. Travel as far as your nerve allows. The cave is not accessible until June due to snow. Visit fs.usda.gov for more information. SPELUNKING TIME:

BLOOMINGTON CAVE NEAR ST. GEORGE

Timpanogos Cave

THE PERFECT INTRODUCTION:

TIMPANOGOS CAVE NATIONAL MONUMENT NEAR SALT LAKE CITY Three limestone caves—Hansen, Middle and Timpanogos—formed by tectonic uplift and hydrothermal water were connected by manmade tunnels in the 1930s. Spectacular speleothems (Salvador Dalí-like formations of deposited minerals) cover the cave system’s enormous chambers. Visiting the caves requires a three-mile round trip hike. You must be part of a guided tour that is $12 for adults, and you can sign up for an introduction to caving tour for $22, which is the perfect way to get started spelunking. Visit NPS.gov for more information. FOLLOW THE FLOW:

MAMMOTH CAVE NEAR DUCK CREEK VILLAGE The massive tubes formed by cooling lava and water in the Dixie National Forest just over 2,000 years ago feature over 2,200 feet passages. The large entrance accesses chambers that quickly constrict and are completely dark. (Bring light!) The exit—nearly a quarter mile away—is a small

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The sprawling cave system—it’s the fifth longest in Utah at 1.39-miles—was created by tectonic movement. Thousands of years of water flow through the limestone has left stunning speleothems throughout to enjoy. A permit obtained from the Bureau of Land Management is required at least three days in advance to enter the cave (BLM.gov). There are five levels to the cave connected by a maze of passages, but it’s well-marked with numerous routes to help explorers along the way. The Bloomington Cave is considered unrated (non-technical). Make no mistake, however, you’re real-deal spelunking here, so come fully prepared with all the gear listed above. The most popular route is the White Route from the south entrance, which accesses the Big Room via a tight passage called the Fanny Flume.

Sand Caves in Kanab

DON’T GO SO DEEP If these cave adventures sound a bit too adventurous for those fond of the surface, there’s no need to go quite so deep. The Sand Caves off Hwy 89 near Kanab are human-made caverns from the area’s sand mining history. Filled with natural light, the sand caves are an aesthetic mixture of Utah’s famed sandstone arches and traditional caves that don’t require you to descend underground.

PHOTOS: (LEFT) JAY DROWNS / UTAH OFFICE OF TOURISM; (BELOW) ADOBE STOCK

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DEAR devotees of

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Through our Heart of Utah campaign, we celebrate our collective success in driving change, funding science and improving behaviors. We come together to achieve something bigger than ourselves. That means taking our efforts beyond the Heart & Stroke Ball and onto the block, working every day to help every heart. We are ensuring all Utahns have an equal chance of living a healthier, longer life – regardless of their ethnicity, race, socioeconomic status, education level, or sexual orientation. From reducing blood pressure to ending tobacco and vaping use to investing in COVID research and resources to ensuring everyone has access to healthy foods, the AHA is working to improve and save lives every day.

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June 9, 2022 Locally sponsored by

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KING OF THE CUP BY TONY GILL

HERE AREN’T ENOUGH

PHOTO ADAM FINKLE

constants in Park City. In a tumultuously evolving community like this one, bastions of familiarity are comfort food for the soul, which you’ll enjoy along with an outstanding cup of coffee at this drive-through treasure. Silver King Coffee has been serving up wonderful joe and food including breakfast burritos, pastries and smoothies for more than a decade, and its location since late 2020 right in the heart of Snow Creek makes it a perfect stop for locals and visitors alike, whether on the way to work or adventure in the mountains. 1450 Snow Creek Dr., 435-640-8261, silverkingcoffee.com

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PARK CITY’S WINTER OF DISCONTENT Labor disputes, limited operations and low snow defined a tumultuous ski season BY TONY GILL

EPIC, EPIC PASS SALES BRING THE CROWDS Vail Resorts sold 47% more Epic passes this year than last. That’s an additional 700,000 passes. An inverse relationship between the number of pass holders and resort workers is a recipe for disastrous operations. If the trend continues, this year’s difficulties may only be the tip of the iceberg.

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H E P U L L O F grav-

ity feels as glorious as it always has. It’s everything else, all the skiadjacent activity—that seems different. Another winter has passed in which the COVID pandemic continued to rankle life, bending expectations and stressing the concept of normality. Park City can be an insular place, shielded from much of the world’s hardship. But it’s also a community sitting on a shaky foundation, if it can’t deliver the relative luxuries it promises. Make no mistake, Park City isn’t a self-sustaining community. If visitors aren’t happy, the underlying economics of the mountain town don’t work. And this year, they weren’t happy. “Guests were angrier than I’ve ever seen. By day five of a ski trip, they were ready to explode,” says one veteran ski instructor at Park City Mountain. The sentiment was shared by others. “Because of our visibility on the mountain, we’re pretty customerfacing. And we dealt with a lot of disgruntled guests,” says another longtime Park City Mountain ski patroller. The causes aren’t mysterious, but they are numerous. Lift lines long enough to inspire their own meme accounts were the norm. Lodges and restaurants were closed. Several chairlifts never turned all season and normally groomed ter-

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rain was devoid of corduroy. A much-publicized labor dispute between the Park City Ski Patrol Union and Park City Mountain’s owner, Vail Resorts, placed a sharp focus on limited mountain operations. “We wanted to get a deal done before the season, but negotiations got off to a poor start,” says Park City Professional Ski Patrol Association (Canyons Village) Business Manager Patrick Murphy. The 158-member union voted nearly unanimously to strike if wages weren’t improved, and ultimately the two sides came to a deal avoiding a work stoppage that would have effectively shut down the resort. Park City’s was hardly the only patrol in such a predicament, but other resorts addressed the problem prior to the ski season. “We got a substantial department-wide pay raise this year. They recognized a lot of turnover with mid-level patrollers leaving mostly for money reasons,” says a Snowbird ski patroller with more than 10 years of experience. Murphy is happy about the improvement but notes it’s far from a perfect deal. “Even with the raise, it’s still barely a livable wage in Utah. The three-year deal is retroactive to this season, and it puts us on the same negotiating schedule as some sister unions, hopefully giving us more negotiating power next time,” he says. Even amid the tumult, the ski patrol was the only fully-staffed department at Park City Mountain. “It has more to do with wages than COVID,” Murphy says. “The economic climate has shifted, and the way resorts compensate employees has to catch up.” If that doesn’t happen, the visitors will likely grow weary and the natives will grow restless.

ILLUSTRATION SCOTT PETERSON

Note: All resort staff interviewed for this story—with the exception of Patrick Murphy, Park City Professional Ski Patrol Association Business Manager, spoke to us on the condition of anonymity.

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BUMPS IN THE ROAD Mogul skiing Parkite Nick Page shares his 2022 Olympic journey BY TONY GILL

I C K PA G E I S FA S T, so it shouldn’t come as a surprise he’s ahead of schedule. At just 19 years old, the Park City local finished fifth in the men’s mogul skiing competition at the Beijing Olympics and wrapped up his third year on the World Cup circuit. We caught up with Page when he returned home to hear about his Olympic experience, how growing up in Park City put him on the fast track for stardom and to learn why he’s only getting started.

It all kicked off when I was 7 years old watching the 2010 Vancouver Olympics. I remember sitting on the ottoman in my living room seeing Bryon Wilson win the bronze medal. My dad mentioned Wilson had skied with the team I was on, Wasatch Freestyle. Right then I got the idea that if I stuck with it anything was possible. Bryon has become one of my closest friends and most influential coaches, so to see it all come full circle by competing in my first Olympics alongside him is incredible.

HOW GROWING UP IN PC PREPARED PAGE: The Olympic spirit is all around you in Park City. All the resorts

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have the Olympic Rings, and I got to train competitively from an early age at the Utah Olympic Park. Growing up experiencing the local legacy of the Olympic culture makes the whole thing feel like a reality.

WHAT IT MEANS TO COMPETE IN PARK CITY: Every place we get to compete is special, but the World Cup at Deer Valley is the standout. It’s Augusta National for mogul skiers. Skiing in front of the huge home crowd brings a different energy that fires us up to show our best stuff.

HOW THE PANDEMIC MADE PAGE BETTER: The pandemic wasn’t something anyone wished for, but it forced me into a corner where I could

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either do something constructive or sit back and wait. As soon as I got home in March 2020, I built a gym in my basement and got to work. I chose to focus on the positives and put all my energy into what I could control. I came out of the experience more fit and well prepared for the season than ever before.

WHEN THE MAGNITUDE HIT HOME FOR PAGE: It didn’t sink in until we were at this big hotel near LAX getting ready to fly overseas. We got to try on our Team USA outfits for the opening and closing ceremonies, and that’s when it really hit me that this is it. It’s the Olympics, and everything we’d been working for had built up to this moment.

WHAT THE FUTURE HOLDS: The results I’ve gotten and the work I’ve put in give me a lot of confidence. My air scores are consistently leading or in the top three, which is a testament to the foundation I built with Wasatch Freestyle. But there’s never going to be a perfect mogul run, and there’s always room to improve. I’m focused on getting stronger and skiing faster with more consistency. I’m only getting started.

PHOTO GETTY IMAGES

THE ORIGIN OF PAGE’S MOGUL SKIING CAREER:

HomesteadResort.com | 435.654.1102

PARK CITY

BETWEEN TWO BUNS We go hunting for the best burgers in Park City BY TONY GILL

WAS ONCE SK IING IN

Chamonix and ordered a sandwich called “The American,” which was a burger patty stuffed in a pita pocket with fries. Truth be told, it was pretty good, but I’m certainly glad that’s not how we do things in Park City. Few foods are more quintessentially American than the burger, and little cuisine makes more sense than the affordable, filling combination of patty and bun in this little mountain town, especially after a day exploring the hills. Park City burgers have variety in spades, from no-frills to elaborate with foundations from beef to bison to veggies. We consumed thousands upon thousands of calories of these delectable sandwich-adjacent creations to find our favorites in town. No need to thank us, just please don’t mock us if we’ve packed on a few pounds.

BEST WHERE’S THE BEEF BURGER: Annex Saloon Burger, $17

PAIRS WELL WITH:

Family members who are hungry from souvenir shopping on Main Street Made famous while being served at the adjacent No Name Saloon, the Annex has made this classic available to the under-21 masses as well. The Saloon Burger has a half-pound bison patty with traditional toppings—grilled onions, cheese, shredded lettuce and tomatoes—on a grilled potato bun. Fancy it ain’t. Delicious it is. 449 Main St., 435-649-6667, annexburger.com

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House-made vegan burger at Montage Deer Valley

Enough shenanigans, let’s have some beef already. Two patties in fact. Throw in some havarti, some sauteed mushrooms and some smoked bacon for good measure. Add it all up and you have a mountain of a burger that will fulfill any appetite for a lot less than most of the others you’ll find in town. 1764 Uinta Way, 435-731-8730, sammysbistroexpress.com

MOST OLD WESTERN FLARE: High West Saloon The Burger, $21

PAIRS WELL WITH:

Dressing down a cashmere sweater with cowboy boots and jeans With a name like “The Burger” this one better deliver, and it does. High West’s distinctly western vibe—think reclaimed wood in a historic, restored garage—perfectly matches the bourbon braised onions, aged gruyère and housemade pickles and “comeback sauce” adorning this burger. High West is 21+ only, and the burger is $21, but the flavor makes it worth the investment.

BEST WHERE’S THE BEEF BURGER PART II:

Burgers and Barley Turkey Cob Burger, $18

PAIRS WELL WITH:

PHOTOS: (LEFT) ADAM FINKLE; (ABOVE) COURTESY MONTAGE DEER VALLEY

Pretending you don’t live every day like it’s a cheat day Even amid a menu stacked with elaborate burger constructions, the Turkey Cob Burger stands out. The turkey patty hints at a lighter side, but that’s balanced with a sunnyside-up egg, bleu cheese dressing and some bacon to pack some serious punch. 1890 Bonanza Dr., 435-602-1170, burgersandbarleyutah.com

BEST WHERE’S THE BEEF BURGER PART III: Burgers and Bourbon Vegan Burger, $19

PAIRS WELL WITH:

The hashtag #BestLife on an Instagram post Vegetarians and vegans, rejoice, for you’ve found burger nirvana. This isn’t some cardboard-like garden burger patty—the Montage doesn’t do things halfway—but is instead a handmade black bean and rice patty on an artisanal vegan bun with tofu aioli, sprouts, tomato and onion. Even meat lovers admit it’s delicious. 9100 Marsac Ave., 435-604-1402, montagehotels.com

BEST BANG FOR YOUR BUCK: Sammy’s Bistro Express Double Mushroom Bacon Cheeseburger, $14

PAIRS WELL WITH:

A reasonably priced sedan that allows you to afford more mountain adventures

703 Park Ave., 435-649-8300, highwest.com

SPICIEST MEATBALL OF A BURGER:

Drafts Burger Bar Ghost Burger, $18

PAIRS WELL WITH:

Post-hike-or-bike caloric deficiency and a frosty beverage Thanks to ghost pepper barbecue sauce and ghost pepper jack cheese, the Ghost Burger heats things up rather quickly. Fortunately, there’s a huge beer selection at Drafts to help put out the fire. Even if you can’t take the heat, the menu features an array of creatively-named burgers from the veggie-based Boujie Hippie to the seafood-focused So-Fish-Dicated to suit any number of tastes. 3000 Canyons Resort Dr., 435-6552270, westgateresorts.com

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PORSCHE LEHI 3425 N. DIGITAL DRIVE, LEHI | 801.852.5400

A LIFETIME OF SERVICE SIMON MILLICAN, THE SERVICE MANAGER AT KEN GARFF’S PORSCHE-AUDI DEALERSHIP IN LEHI, HAS BEEN IN THE CAR BUSINESS FOR MORE THAN 20 YEARS. HE SHARES HIS STORY AND THE REASONS WHY CUSTOMERS CHOOSE KEN GARFF FOR SERVICE.

Simon Millican, at age 19, didn’t realize how much he loved cars until he got his first job at a car dealership in Salt Lake. “I was fresh out of high school and really had no idea what I wanted to do,” he recalls. “My friend worked at a Nissan dealership and I got my start as a lot tech. I was young and it seemed like a good opportunity. I wasn’t a gear head back then but I enjoyed being around the cars and talking to people.” From that first job, Millican built a career. He moved into the parts department and then learned the service side. He bounced around a bit working for different companies and auto brands, kicking the tires, as it were before he found himself working at an Audi dealer in Orlando.

“It reinvigorated my love of the business,” he says. “Coming into the luxury-performance level was really exciting. It was like a whole different world. I got to drive Audi R8s and A8s and share in the passion that these owners have for these amazing cars.” In 2014, Millican got a call from the Ken Garff Group wondering if he’d like to make a move back to Utah, which was his goal. That call brought him back home and gave him the opportunity to get in on the ground floor of building Garff’s first Audi-Porsche dealership, where he helped shape the hightouch service that is Ken Garff’s signature. “Our clients have options,” he says. “They can drive any car they want, really. They buy an Audi or a Porsche because they’ve wanted that car for their whole lives. We have to live up to that expectation and help make the service as enjoyable as the car itself.” Millican prides himself on living up to the Garff motto of “we hear you.” And says that he’s learned that giving his service team the flexibility and autonomy to put the client first is the way to do that. “Our mission is treating people right,” he says. “It is important for me to empower my employees to do the right thing for the customer. I take the approach that puts what’s right over ‘good enough.” I don’t want them to be afraid to make a decision that leads them to the right thing to do. I want them to have the room to use their talent and ability to get the job done right.” When Millican helped build the Lehi dealership, video inspections, where the customer can observe the technician working on their vehicle, were coming online. He says Garff went all-in on the new tech. “We led the pack within the Garff group and started offering this service to our clients,” he says. Providing narrated videos to customers, he says, takes out the mystery of what is happening to their car during even routine service.

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“OUR CLIENTS HAVE OPTIONS,” HE SAYS. “THEY CAN DRIVE ANY CAR THEY WANT, REALLY. THEY BUY AN AUDI OR A PORSCHE BECAUSE THEY’VE WANTED THAT CAR FOR THEIR WHOLE LIVES. WE HAVE TO LIVE UP TO THAT EXPECTATION AND HELP MAKE THE SERVICE AS ENJOYABLE AS THE CAR ITSELF.” - SIMON MILLICAN

AUDI LEHI 3455 N. DIGITAL DRIVE, LEHI | 888.654.6719

“Most people don’t know a whole lot about car repair,” he says. “How many times have you paid for a car repair and had no idea anything was actually done. When they bring in their vehicle they are giving us their time and money and we are able to demonstrate our attention to detail and educate them about how their car works. The Porsche 911 owners really love it. It gives them more knowledge to show up their buddies at the track.” Looking back at his years in the industry, Millican can see how his first decision to take an entry-level job at a car dealer at the age of 19 truly changed his life. And now, he says, he enjoys bringing in kids just like him and offering him the same opportunity. “I always say the car business is a great place for anyone who doesn’t exactly know what they want to be when they grow up,” he muses. “It’s a setting where someone can start with little experience and I can bring them in and teach them the same things I went through coming up. I and my managers get to mentor young people and help them realize their dreams. It’s pretty amazing.”

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Staying close to home took on a whole new meaning over the last few years. In fact, it often meant just plain staying in our homes. But we’ve adapted since and have discovered ways to get out and explore that are actually close to home. We’ve learned that the best respite from the day-to-day doesn’t have to require a passport or a plane or a beach with a bar serving drinks with tiny umbrellas. The best vacation is right here in our own backyard. Here are three ways to take a break and unwind without going too far.

W RI T T EN BY MEG A N HUL SE

| DE SIGNE D BY A RI A NN A JIM E N E Z

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HILT ON SALT LAKE CITY Make a long weekend of playing tourist, and take advantage of downtown hospitality at the Hilton Salt Lake City Center, where the staff is elevating the hotel experience at the Hilton’s prime West Temple location, immaculate pool and jacuzzi, and a thoughtful staff ready to provide premier experiences for locals and visitors alike.

ilton Salt Lake City Center makes planning a Salt Lake staycation easy, with amenities for any kind of vacationer. Start your day with a sunrise salutation at Trofi, led by executive chef Tony Coppernoll. “Our breakfast menu offers a variety of flavorful dishes uniquely infused with the honey extracted from our rooftop beehives and garnished with the fresh herbs grown in our on-site gardens,” says Coppernoll. “Whether you’re looking for a hearty meal or light start to your morning, Trofi has something for everyone.” The brunch menu also features classic cocktails with a twist, like the Trofi Bloody Mary with maple pepper bacon, or cherry-infused mimosas. Earlier this year, Trofi also launched its unique QR code lunch ordering. Guests can access menus, order, and pay entirely from their device, and have their meals delivered on the Trofi patio. With this shaken-up restaurant experience, couples, kids, and even pets are welcome to enjoy the patio

amenities while they wait, which include jumbo lawn games, gas fire pits (for chilly days), or just taking in the unmatched views of the city landscape. After mornings in the hotel, guests are encouraged to hit the town–or the trails. “We are uniquely situated for guests to enjoy nightlife and boutique shopping,” says general manager Garret Parker. “But this Hilton is also minutes from outdoor escapes like Memory Grove Park and the adjoining City Creek canyon trails.” Staying with Hilton also means taking part in their “Travel with Purpose” strategy, an initiative to drive sustainability and community connection in the tourism industry. At the Salt Lake location, these efforts include relying on local ingredients and resources to reduce the overall footprint of the hotel, while also providing a uniquely immersive Utah experience. Find your own travel purpose this summer, and select Hilton Salt Lake City Center for your downtown escape.

2 5 5 S. W E ST TE M PLE , SLC | 8 01 . 328 . 2 0 0 0 | H I LTON S A LTL A KECI T YC E N T E R .CO M

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THE LOD GE AT BLUE SKY This summer, The Lodge at Blue Sky invites Utahns to experience the alpine landscape in a whole new light. With just 46 rooms, these intimate accommodations make Blue Sky feel more like a home away from home than a 3,500-acre ranch property amid towering Wasatch Mountain peaks. Just 30 minutes from downtown, the Blue Sky team has curated outdoor adventures and indoor luxury for its guests in every season.

icture soaring over iconic Wasatch and Uintah peaks in a helicopter, taking in the dramatic views, then touching down to enjoy the incredible architecture of Blue Sky Ranch that mirrors them. The living roofs of the Edge Spa sown with native flora give way to picturesque meadows as you dive headfirst into a weekend of immersive adventure at The Lodge. Blue Sky guests can enjoy a host of exhilarating activities: heli sports like heli skiing and mountain biking, and rejuvenating spa retreats during winter chills; fireside yoga in cozy yurts or horseback riding lessons from the Saving Gracie Equine Healing Foundation for warm-weather thrills. Each excursion offers a truly nature-oriented experience. The Blue Sky family are genuine stewards of the earth, and take great measures to ensure that their carbon footprint is as minimal as possible. For your 2022 summer staycation, join in the conservation efforts with Organic Farm School at the entirely female-led, regenerative Gracie’s Farm. The team of

farmers work the land using hand tools and animal grazing, for exceptional soil quality that generates equally exceptional produce. New to the Blue Sky lineup this season is a craft dinner series, hosted in partnership with Templin Family Brewing. This year, they offer several dinner events, each featuring a locally sourced menu designed by Blue Sky’s James Beard award-winning executive chef Galen Zamarra, complete with local beer pairings to complement each dish. “There is always something new happening at Blue Sky,” says Jessica Cook, director of sales and marketing at Blue Sky. “Our experience curators are always creating new, innovative programming that showcases how amazing Blue Sky is during any season.” Immerse yourself in the beauty of Utah with a stay in one of Blue Sky’s luxury rooms, including family-friendly Signature and Earth suites, and take your crew on an off-the-beatenpath adventure they’ll remember for a lifetime.

2 76 4 9 OLD L I N CO LN HIGH WAY, WA NSHIP | 8 6 6. 2 9 6. 89 98 | AU B E RGE RE SORTS.COM/BLUESK Y

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Wine c ountry inn Great adventures beckon Wasatch wine lovers with a newly expanded hotel retreat just a few hours away in Palisade, Colorado. Celebrated as a relaxing getaway since its founding in 2008, Wine Country Inn made the leap to a full-fledged wine destination when its owners purchased historic Grande River Vineyards next door last June. By joining forces, the two businesses now offer guests experiences unique in the West.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY CHAD MAHLUM

estled at the base of the western Little Bookcliffs mountains, the 80-room Victorian style Inn and Colorado’s fifth established winery are joined by 20plus acres of established vineyards of mostly Bordeaux-style varietals that are the backbone of Grande River Vineyards’ product line. European-trained and certified Rainer Thoma, who tends the vines and makes the wines, aims to elevate wine profiles and to add cold-hearty vines to the mix. Co-owners Richard and Jean Tally plan to use Grande River’s pioneering heritage in Colorado’s wine industry as a foundation for establishing an updated winery operation producing high quality traditional wines. “We have a rare opportunity to build a strong wine destination based on the symbiotic relationship between the hotel and the winery,” Richard explains. As a full service boutique hotel, WCI is a popular venue for weddings, celebrations, reunions and corporate retreats. The Inn can now book vineyard and winery tours, special tastings and wine dinners for individuals or groups of friends and

familly. This new wine destination is perfect for a celebration or a chance getaway. “You can have a totally immersive experience,” says General Manager Ian Kelley. “Your getaway can be whatever you want it to be.” Caroline’s Restaurant serves locally-sourced, classically prepared Colorado foods and wines, while Tapestry Lounge features wine, cocktails and small plates. The culinary team can customize in-house catering for events. A complimentary afternoon wine reception and hearty breakfast are standard at the hotel. The Winery Tasting Room is open daily from 9 am to 5 pm, and sells food with its wine. The area’s surrounding natural landscape is wide open for exploration. Whether you’re a leisure traveler soaking up the laid-back ambiance or a thrill-seeking cyclist attacking the Palisade Plunge, the Inn and winery are your “Gateway to Colorado”— just a tank of gas away. So fill ’er up, Salt Lakers, and motor on over to Western Colorado’s new, bona fide wine destination.

7 7 7 G R A N D E RIV E R D RIV E , PA L I SA DE , CO | 970 .4 6 4.5 7 7 7 | COLOR A DO W IN E COU NT RY INN.COM 7 8 7 G R A ND E RIV E R D RIV E , PA L I SA DE , CO | 970 .4 6 4.5 8 67 | GR A N DE RIV E RV I N E YA R DS.COM

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N T H E 1 9 2 0 S , A S T H E L E G E N D G O E S , there was

(NO

a hard push to establish Kanab, Utah as “the finest scenic wonderland to be found in the entire West,” after The Deadwood Coach (1924) was shot about ten miles away in Johnson Canyon. That effort paid off, with a boom of Western film productions starring the likes of John Wayne throughout the ’30s and ’40s and earning Kanab the moniker “Little Hollywood.” The boom finally petered out in the 1970s as the popularity of the Western faded to black like so many cinematic sunsets. But that doesn’t mean the drive to attract film productions to Zion died as well. 1978 saw the founding of the Sundance Film Festival (see more on Robert Redford’s legacy in FEATURE TITLE on page XX), once again putting Utah on the map. Utah’s film resumé boasts both John Ford’s iconic Westerns and campy cult horror flicks like Troll 2, possibly the worst movie ever made. But what are the very best Utah-made movies? What films were shot here that we didn’t know about? And how LE) R many flicks have a scene in Monument Valley, aA R T I C R T E justFtoTglean HIS O P I E to local G Oexperts, hit the little of that Utah magic?I We film S Ttalked ITIN HR E WR H T Internet, re-opened account and scoured IMDB, for a B Y C a Netflix D IN RME A H crash course in Utah’s long and storied celluloid past. After many ERE N S W nights and much gnashing of teeth, we came up with Hsleepless A T U our 10 favorites. Now we present them to you in no particular order (along with dozens more found during our hunt for the best) and reflections by some of Utah’s own movie-biz folks.

there was a hard push to establish Kanab as “the finest scenic wonderland to be found in the entire West,” after The Deadwood Coach (1924) was shot about 10 miles away in Johnson Canyon. That effort paid off, with a boom of Western film productions starring the likes of John Wayne throughout the ’30s and ’40s and earning Kanab the moniker “Little Hollywood.” The boom finally petered out in the 1970s as the popularity of the Western faded to black like so many cinematic sunsets. But that doesn’t mean the drive to attract film productions to Zion died as well. 1978 saw the founding of the Sundance Film Festival (see more on Robert Redford’s legacy in “For the Love of the Land” on page 74), once again putting Utah on the map.

PHOTO CREDIT TK

N THE 1920S, AS THE LEGEND GOE S,

Utah’s film resumé boasts both John Ford’s iconic Westerns and campy cult horror flicks like Troll 2, possibly the worst movie ever made. But what are the very best Utah-made movies? What films were shot here that we didn’t know about? And how many flicks have a scene in Monument Valley just to glean a little of that Utah magic? We talked to local film experts, hit the Internet, reopened a Netflix account and scoured IMDB, for a crash course in Utah’s long and storied celluloid past. After many sleepless nights and much gnashing of teeth, we came up with our 10 favorites. Now we present them to you in no particular order (along with dozens more found during our hunt for the best/worst) and reflections by some of Utah’s own movie-biz folks.

MAY /J UNE 2022

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(1969)

STARS: PAUL NEWMAN, ROBERT REDFORD, KATHARINE ROSS DIRECTOR: GEORGE ROY HILL

You might see this as an obvious choice, given the Sundance Kid’s ongoing influence in Utah (see page 74) and his appearance on the cover of this magazine on more than one occasion. But if you watch Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid tomorrow, you’ll quickly realize why this is our favorite Utah movie. Paul Newman has never been more charming, Robert Redford was never again this cool on screen, and together they make the ideal pair for an action- and humor-packed buddy flick that features stunning Utah scenery, including stops in Snow Canyon, St. George and Zion National Park. The “Raindrops Keep Fallin’ on My Head” montage is still cringe-inducing, but it’s the only major misstep along the duo’s run to Bolivia by way of New York City, all the while watching the posse on their tail and wondering, “Who are those guys?”

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PHOTO 20TH CENTURY FOX/COURTESY EVERETT COLLECTION

BUTCH CASSIDY AND THE SUNDANCE KID

THE SEARCHERS (1956)

STARS: JOHN WAYNE, JEFFREY HUNTER, VERA MILES, NATALIE WOOD DIRECTOR: JOHN FORD Arguably the best of Ford’s Westerns, The Searchers features The Duke as Ethan Edwards, a Civil War vet who joins his brother’s family on their Texas ranch after the armistice. Ethan’s family is soon massacred by a band of Comanche, except for the kidnapped youngest daughter, Debbie (Natalie Wood). Ethan spends the next five years searching for Debbie and the diabolical Chief Scar, and the viewer comes to realize the racist and possibly crazy Ethan might not care about saving Debbie as much as he simply wants to kill natives. Ford brilliantly uses the spectacular Monument Valley—filmed for the first time, as the DVD commentary notes, “in both color and VistaVision!”—as his Lone Star State, building tension in expansive, memory-searing scenes.

PHOTO COURTESY EVERETT COLLECTION

Utah Film Industry’s Second Act It’s hard to miss something you’ve never really had (and Utah hasn’t had it since the days of John Wayne). But Utah got a taste of the big time when a prestige television show—Paramount’s Yellowstone—filmed its first three seasons in the state, reportedly bringing $80 million in local revenue. It was shortlived, however, when the series, starring Kevin Costner, moved production to Montana. While 2021 saw a small rebound from an abysmal 2020 and Utah’s film industry has shown overall growth since 2005, this growth has leveled off. Film industry professionals have blamed Utah’s cap on film incentives.

The idea of Utah’s Motion Picture Incentive Program is to give film productions enough tax credits to make filming in Utah worthwhile, especially compared to places that have a more established infrastructure, like L.A. or Georgia. But to lose a big production to Montana of all places? Ouch. Of course, Montana just raised its cap on film tax incentives to $12 million in 2021, and local industry professionals fear Utah could lose out on more productions if the state doesn’t keep up. It could be time, however, for a second act for Utah’s film industry. Going into the 2022 Utah Legislative Session, Utah’s

film incentives capped at $8.3 million, one of the lowest annual caps in the U.S. Then the legislature passed S.B. 49, raising the cap to $12 million for productions based in rural areas. Originally, the bill removed the cap for rural productions entirely, and Kevin Costner threw his weight behind it. The Yellowstone star promised to bring five feature film productions, a series called Horizon, to Utah if the cap went away. Time will tell if simply raising the cap will be enough. Even though it just applies to rural Utah, film production in rural areas represented one-fourth of all filming days in Utah over the last five years and, between

2017 and 2020, there were more permits granted for rural areas than urban ones, according to data from the Utah Film Commission. While it might cost the state more up-front to raise the cap on film tax incentives, the same report found that, since 2014, for each $1 spent on the tax credit, on average, $5.10 is returned to the Utah economy. That doesn’t include the ripple effects, either; the study shows that film tourism led to 2.2 million Utah trips and $6 billion in value for the state over the past 10 years.

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SLC PUNK! (1998) STARS: Matthew Lillard, Michael A. Goorjian, Annabeth Gish, Christopher McDonald DIRECTOR: James Merendino

FOOTLOOSE (1984) STARS: Kevin Bacon, Lori Singer, John Lithgow, Sarah Jessica Parker DIRECTOR: Herbert Ross It’s easy to find plenty of folks who rate Kevin Bacon’s breakout film their favorite Utah-made movie; the image of Bacon dancing around the Lehi Roller Mills is as iconic to ’80s-raised kids as the shot of John Wayne at the end of The Searchers is for Western fans. The Footloose story is simple: city boy Ren (Bacon) moves to a small town, only to find local religious zealots have outlawed—gasp!—dancing and rock music. Rallying the repressed teen populace

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(including a young Sarah Jessica Parker) to his cause, Ren convinces the fire-andbrimstone preacher (John Lithgow) that dancing is good, clean fun, just in time for the senior prom. The Wasatch Front looms in the background of nearly every scene—the production bounced from Lehi and American Fork to Payson and Orem—and we can thank Footloose for Bacon’s spiky haircut becoming the iconic look for American men in the mid-’80s.

PHOTOS: (LEFT) COURTESY UTAH FILM COMMISSION, (ABOVE) COURTESY EVERETT COLLECTION

As a document of Salt Lake’s mid-’80s punk-rock underground, this often-hilarious flick is not accurate enough for the scene’s survivors and is probably all-too-real for many in the conservative majority who never realized the activities depicted were commonplace. Rampant drug use, anti-Reagan rants and mohawked, slam-dancing teenagers are the last things outsiders might expect to find in clean-cut SLC, but they are the norm in this 1998 feature by Salt Laker James Merendino. The characters are based—loosely based—on real SLC punks of the era, and there are some stunning shots of Salt Lake’s urban landscape, aided by an irreverent ’80s punk soundtrack, that make this a worthwhile 97-minute trip back in time.

PHOTOS: (RIGHT) COURTESY UTAH FILM COMMISSION, (BELOW) MGM/COURTESY EVERETT COLLECTION, (FAR RIGHT) COURTESY NETFLIX

THE OUTLAW JOSEY WALES

Falling for Christmas

(1976)

UTAH IS HOME FOR CHRISTMAS

STARS: Clint Eastwood, Chief Dan George, Sondra Locke, John Vernon DIRECTOR: Clint Eastwood

(Movies, That Is) Not every film production is passing on Utah. There are a swath of Hallmark-style holiday movies filming here, like Netflix’s Best Christmas Ever and Falling for Christmas (starring Lindsay Lohan), both awaiting 2022 release dates, and other such 2021 titles as:

Many critics consider The Outlaw Josey Wales to be Clint Eastwood’s best Western, even better than his 1992 Best Picture Oscar-winner Unforgiven. Eastwood plays a Civil War-era farmer whose wife and son are slaughtered by a renegade crew of Union troops. Joining a band of Confederate rebels who continue to fight the Union— thereby making him an “outlaw”—Wales chases the men across some of Utah’s most memorable landscapes, including Paria, Glen Canyon and Lake Powell. Along the way, Wales builds a new “family,” including a couple of Indians, widows and a young boy, and Eastwood builds a stirring look at the cost of war on a man’s soul.

A Picture Perfect Holiday ON LIFETIME

Candy Coated Christmas ON DISCOVERY+

Mistletoe Mixup ON AMAZON PRIME

Sister Swap: A Hometown Holiday ON HALLMARK CHANNEL

Sister Swap: Christmas in the City

THELMA & LOUISE

ON HALLMARK CHANNEL

A Fiancé For Christmas ON LIFETIME

(1991)

The Housewives of the North Pole ON PEACOCK

Hot Chocolate Holiday

STARS: Susan Sarandon, Geena Davis, Harvey Keitel DIRECTOR: Ridley Scott For decades American film audiences were offered road movies and buddy flicks featuring men. Thelma and Louise proved the same audiences would gladly watch a couple of butt-kicking women bond while they run

from a violent night gone awry toward a new sense of personal freedom. The movie is carried by the performances of Susan Sarandon and Geena Davis as their characters discover how emotionally tough and rugged they truly are in the face of a fast-approaching, ultimately doomed end. Director Ridley Scott matches that revelation with panoramic shots of Utah’s tough, rugged and beautiful terrain, including views of Canyonlands and Arches National Parks, Dead Horse Point State Park, Valley of the Gods near Mexican Hat and the La Sal Mountains.

ON LIFETIME

As the old adage goes, if you’ve seen one of these movies, you’ve seen them all: A career-oriented woman leaves the big city and her job as a reporter (or baker, or writer, or small boutique shop owner) and comes to a small town to rediscover her humanity, her capacity to love and the true meaning of Christmas.

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Utah Dances with the Devil Whether seriously scary, laughably campy, or just plain cringey, horror movies and splatter flicks inevitably find an audience at the theater or on streaming. Many are made in Utah, something best explained with an economics lecture. “Horror movies are usually low-budget, and much of the screen is dark, so you can shoot anywhere,” says U of U film professor William Siska. Here’s a quick peek at Utah’s horror history.

The Saltair looked great, but not as scary as a typical heavy metal concert there these days. Still, it’s lauded for its cinematography and foreboding atmosphere.

Silent Night, Deadly Night (1984)

DUMB & DUMBER (1994)

STARS: Jim Carrey, Jeff Daniels, Lauren Holly DIRECTOR: Peter and Bobby Farrelly Critics and academic types will be appalled to find this slice of Farrelly Brothers slapstick on any list that includes films like The Searchers, even if geography is a major component of said list. Like the Marx Brothers, Monty Python or Adam Sandler, Dumb and Dumber offers a comedy dividing line—you either love or hate it. Watching Jeff Daniels and Jim Carrey as best friends Harry and Lloyd is to watch total commitment from a couple of actors. Granted, it’s largely a commitment to flatulence jokes and stupidity, but still. It’s a buddy flick, it’s a love story and it’s a road movie that stops in Provo, Park City, Orem and Salt Lake. Virtually every line of dialogue is aimed straight at your funny bone, and some of the physical humor pulled off by the two leads is undeniably impressive.

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This Christmas-themed splatter flick falls under the “so bad it’s good” label (director Quentin Tarantino has also listed it as inspiration if that’s any indication), with Santa slaying folks from Salt Lake to Heber City and back again.

Halloween 4 (1988) The Return of Michael Myers (1988), Halloween 5: The Revenge of Michael Myers (1989) and Halloween 6: The Curse of Michael Myers (1995) were all filmed here. None of these sequels holds a candle to John Carpenter’s classic original, but it’s cool that a horror icon like Michael Myers has slashed a few teenagers in Utah.

Troll 2 (1990) You know that “so bad it’s good” label? This movie, which is not actually a sequel, is just “so bad,” but it’s found a global audience nonetheless.

The Stand (1994) The TV miniseries is based on the novel of the same name by Stephen King. The adaptation was

filmed everywhere from Pleasant Grove to Ogden.

Species (1995) An alien in the form of a leggy blonde kills several men while looking for a mate, including a stop in Brigham City.

Bats (1999) In Magna, Park City and American Fork, the dude from La Bamba battles, you guessed it, bats!

Frozen (2010) Three skiers, stranded on a chairlift, have to make some impossible choices to make it through the night. The film was shot at Snowbasin Resort and around the Ogden area.

Hereditary (2018) The critically-acclaimed supernatural horror film, written and directed by Ari Aster, premiered in the Midnight section at the 2018 Sundance Film Festival. The production became A24’s highestgrossing film worldwide.

Midsommar (2019) Ari Aster’s Midsommar begins as an idyllic visit to a small town festival in Sweden and devolves into a gory and bizarre competition at the hands of a pagan cult. This one is a bit of a stretch, with just one or two scenes filmed at Utah locations in Draper.

PHOTO MARK FELLMAN / © NEW LINE CINEMA / COURTESY EVERETT COLLECTION

Carnival of Souls (1962)

National Lampoon’s Vacation

PHOTOS: (BELOW) 20TH CENTURY FOX, (RIGHT) WARNER BROTHERS/COURTESY EVERETT COLLECTION

MONUMENT VALLEY DRIVE-BYS This corner of Utah has always been ready for its close-up. Director John Ford wasn’t the first filmmaker to shoot in Monument Valley, but he made the striking Navajo Indian Reservation landscape in Southern Utah and Northern Arizona one of the most recognized, iconic places in the world. Make no mistake, the only thing better than seeing it through Ford’s lens is seeing it in person. The red rock cliffs and heaven-reaching sandstone buttes rewarded Ford with some of the most beloved and critically hailed movies ever, including 1939’s haunting blackand-white Stagecoach and The Searchers in 1956, the first movie to capture Monument Valley in full-color “VistaVision.” “Stagecoach identified Monument Valley as the quintessential Western landscape,” says University of Utah film professor William Siska, noting that even though academics and film buffs all associate Stagecoach with Monument Val-

ley, the movie was largely shot on a film studio lot in California. The scenes actually shot in Monument Valley, Siska says, “came to about two-and-a-half minutes, maybe three minutes, of actual screen time in the film, and still, that’s what you carry away from that movie.” James D’Arc, retired curator of the Brigham Young University Motion Picture Archive, puts the Monument Valley screen time in Stagecoach at about “90 seconds of a 90-minute movie,” but he agrees with Siska on the film’s profound effect. “Once John Ford made Stagecoach there, it’s as if he had the deed on Monument Valley.” Very few others would touch it, up until the late ’60s when Sergio Leone went there to film part of Once Upon a Time in the West. Since Sergio broke the ice, many have followed. Here are 13 familiar films that stopped for a shot of Monument Valley since Ford’s era.

2001: A Space Odyssey (1968)

Forrest Gump (1994)

Easy Rider (1969)

Waiting to Exhale (1995)

National Lampoon’s Vacation (1983)

Con Air (1996) Chill Factor (1999)

Starman (1984)

Wild Wild West (1999)

Over the Top (1987)

Vertical Limit (2000)

Back to the Future Part III (1990)

The Lone Ranger (2013)

THE SANDLOT (1993)

STARS: Tom Guiry, Mike Vitar, Art LaFleur DIRECTOR: David Mickey Evans The Sandlot is a beloved family movie that capitalizes on nostalgia and childhood, even featuring a Wonder Years-style voice-over. It has largely withstood the test of time to become something of a classic, following the dreams and misadventures of a group of young baseball enthusiasts. The film and its iconic scenes were all shot in Utah. The eponymous sandlot was located in the Glendale neighborhood of Salt Lake City, the infamous carnival fiasco was shot at Liberty Park and the pool used in the film was the Lorin Farr Community Pool in Ogden. People love this movie. And, as they say, “legends never die.”

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UTAH’S DISNEY REIGN WANING? Once upon a time, Utah was also the go-to production home for Disney TV movies and series, but those days could be over. Disney’s High School Musical: The Musical: The Series filmed its first seasons in Utah at a fictionalized East High (the original High School Musical movie was shot at the actual East High in Salt Lake City), but it’s moving the production of the latest season to L.A. The show Andi Mack started filming in Utah in 2017 but wrapped production in 2019, and there hasn’t been much movement since. The pandemic could be partially to blame, of course. As of this publication, the Utah Film Commission hasn’t revealed any Disney productions for 2022, but it’s still early in the year. Here are some more filmed-in-Utah movies that you can likely stream on Disney+: Don’t Look Under the Bed (1999) Johnny Tsunami (1999) The Luck of the Irish (2001) The Poof Point (2001) Double Teamed (2002) Right on Track (2003)

127 HOURS (2010)

Going to the Mat (2004) Halloweentown High (2004) Buffalo Dreams (2005)

STARS: James Franco, Amber Tamblyn, Kate Mara DIRECTOR: Danny Boyle

Life is Ruff (2005)

Adapted from Aron Ralston’s autobiographical 2004 book Between a Rock and a Hard Place (meant to be interpreted literally), 127 Hours depicts the struggle of a lone climber near Moab, where he is trapped by a boulder in a slot canyon. To escape, he cuts off his own arm with a pocketknife. Gruesome subject matter aside, it’s more about the strength and indomitable will of the human spirit and showcasing the lengths to which we are willing to go to survive. It also shows off some of Utah’s most stunning landscapes, as it was filmed on location in Canyonlands National Park. It is the prettiest movie you will ever see about a man cutting off his own arm.

Return to Halloweentown (2006)

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Read It and Weep (2006)

Minutemen (2008) Dadnapped (2009) Hatching Pete (2009) Good Luck Charlie, It’s Christmas! (2011) Cloud 9 (2014)

PHOTO COURTESY FOX SEARCHLIGHT PICTURES

Go Figure (2005)

HE RE DITARY (2018)

STARS: Toni Collette, Milly Shapiro, Gabriel Byrne DIRECTOR: Ari Aster This Sundance film with a paltry $10 million-dollar budget might be one of the scariest films ever made in Utah (admittedly arguable, considering the sheer number of horror movies filmed here). Hereditary was filmed in Salt Lake and Summit Counties. You’ll recognize a familiar and imposing mountain range in the background of scenes at a funeral shot at Larkin Sunset Gardens in Sandy. The film is a slow burn, make no mistake. It begins as a supernatural mystery about a dark family secret, an enigmatic burden weighing down a grieving family. After the film ratchets up the tension, preying on our fragile emotions, the final act unspools all at once and delivers on the scares.

WATE R- SK IIN G CAT S A N D PL ATFORM SHOE S

PHOTOS: (TOP) COURTESY A24 FILMS; (BOTTOM) COURTESY TRENT HARRIS

Trent Harris’ Essential Utah Film Writer-director Trent Harris doesn’t necessarily look back on Rubin and Ed with the same affection as the fans who made a cult classic—at least among Utah film geeks—out of the story of an antisocial homebody, a middle-aged pyramid-schemer and a dead, frozen cat. Harris doesn’t revel in fond memories of star Crispin Glover’s dangerously tall platform shoes, or of Utah college students in the early ’90s sporting “My cat can eat a whole watermelon!” T-shirts. Instead, he remembers the arduous production that led him to collapse on the final day of shooting, the stroke that knocked out one of his leads, Peter Boyle, a week into production, and the studio essentially abandoning the film. “That movie was buried so fast,” Harris says, “It opened the

week after the L.A. riots. People weren’t in a good mood. The critics were in a really bad mood. They just creamed it. It wasn’t that they didn’t like it; they hated the movie. Some jackass at The Boston Globe said it was the worst movie of the decade.” Rubin and Ed is far from that, but the treatment the movie

received was enough to send the then-Los Angeleno on the road to Utah, where he’s lived ever since. Rubin and Ed marked Harris’ first successful pitch to a major studio, Columbia Tri-Star, but he was fed up with Tinsel Town long before. “I was so burned out on Hollywood, trying to sell scripts, that I finally said ‘to hell with it’ and decided that I would write a screenplay that was so simple I could just go out in the desert with a couple of friends and just shoot it,” Harris says. “Oddly enough, that was the one Hollywood bought. It was crazy how fast it happened ... I was amazed anybody would make that movie.” The final product is a winning buddy flick starring Glover as Rubin and, after Boyle bowed out, Howard Hesseman as Ed. The distinctly odd duo spends much

of the movie wandering through the red rock of Southern Utah looking for the “right spot” to bury Rubin’s dead pet. Rubin and Ed was released on Blu-Ray in 2020 and Harris still gets tons of emails about the film from around the globe. He sells DVDs and memorabilia on his website echocave.net.

Harris’ love affair with Hollywood is long over, but his love of central Utah’s scenery continues. His latest film, which is something (but not exactly) of a sequel to Rubin & Ed, saw Harris return to the desert to create Echo People, a movie that teaches us all that “you never know when you’re going to need a rubber ant.”

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ROAD TRIP OREGON Discover what lies at the end of the Oregon Trail

PHOTOS ADOBE STOCK

BY TONY GILL

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DON’T WORRY ABOUT the band name, just rest assured

there was an ample amount of jangly guitar playing and a fair amount of shoegazing onstage because I’m a ’90s kid at heart. I harbor not-so-secret hipster tendencies, so you probably never heard of them. Anyway, we all have our tastes, and it’s the venue I recall more than anything. I’ve been to a lot of underground bars and seen a lot of shows, but most of those don’t implant in the hippocampus like this. The Doug Fir Lounge (830 E. Burnside, Portland, 503231-9663, dougfirlounge.com) is dim and unsubtly timbered as the name would imply with a certain je ne sais quoi that makes those tandem guitars reverberate a little stronger, especially with a local pint from Breakside Brewery (820 NE Dekum St., 503-719-6475, breakside.com) in hand. It’s easy to spend time indoors in Portland, Ore. Whether because of the overflowing well of indie music,

the flood of craft libations or the artisanal food, which is never far away, it’s a place that encourages indulgence and mornings as foggy as the stereotypically overcast canopy. It’s also a staging ground for invigorating adventure under crystal-clear skies, where getting lost among the towering evergreens can shake off any kind of lingering haze. The push and pull never really subsides. Casual lingering over the last third of a pour over coffee gives way to an overwhelming urge to explore the trails, especially once the long gray of winter has mercifully given way to spring sun and the GORE-TEX becomes superfluous for a time. The hues of the Northwest are richer and the views, where the densest forest wanes and allows, are simply scaled differently. It’s time to chart your own trail west. Don’t sit still. There’s much to do.

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STUMPTOWN AND THE HILLS Portland has several notable nicknames. I suppose this is unsurprising for a place that was named via coin flip in 1845 when Francis Pettygrove of Portland, Maine defeated Asa Lovejoy of Boston two flips to one. It’s unclear if Pettygrove called heads or tails, but the penny used is on display at the Oregon Historical Society. The city’s official nickname, at least since 2003, is “City of Roses” owing to the area’s ideal climate for growing the flowers which can be admired at the International Rose Test Garden (400 SW Kingston Ave., Portland, 503-823-3636). The nickname I find most apt, however, is the one that was in vogue prior to the fateful coin flip. Stumptown. The name was derived from the vast number of trees which were cut down to facilitate growth. Ever since European settlement shamefully and often violently displaced the native people of Oregon, including the Kathlamet, Wasco and Wishram, Clatsop and Clackamas nations, the area has been the epicenter of the lumber industry in the United States. Today it is the country’s top lumber producing state, and even the beloved professional soccer team is named the Timbers. But as much as the felled trees have shaped the area, the mountains rising from earth define the state’s identity.

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Emerging into the crisp morning air after a night at the Doug Fir Lounge is refreshing. Seeking some penance from my own decision making, I headed to the city’s northwest corner for a little outdoor therapy in Forest Park, a 5,000-acre respite from Portland’s energetic churn. Starting at Lower Macleay Park, I hiked through a dense temperate rainforest up the Lower Macleay Trail to the Wildwood Trail for roughly 2.5 miles. Along the way I passed a historic stone house covered in moss the forest was attempting to reclaim as I winded up the hillside before reaching the Pittock Mansion (3229 NW Pittock Dr., Portland, 503-823-3623, pittockmansion.org).

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The labyrinthine 46-room, French Renaissance-style chateau sits atop a hillside with an enormous vista overlooking Stumptown. On clear days Mount Hood is visible, as is the ominously flat-topped remnant of Mount St. Helens. Beckoned by the call of the colossal volcanoes, I descended back into the city before heading East to explore Oregon’s vast rivers and mountains. I drove along the Columbia River, passing waterfalls and innumerable osprey nests until I reached Hood River. The first time I visited Hood River, someone earnestly asked me what water sport I did. Lacking any semblance of an answer has always bugged me, so I figured “when in Rome” and tried

PHOTOS: (WHITE STAG SIGN) JUSTIN KATIGBAK / TRAVEL PORTLAND; (PITTOCK MANSION) JUSTIN KATIGBAK / TRAVEL PORTLAND; (FOOD) COURTESY DOUBLE MOUNTAIN BREWERY

WHAT TO DO

Double Mountain Brewery

Mount Hood, the iconic stratovolcano easily visible from Portland some 60 miles away, is so prominent as to have inspired debate about its height, with 19th century estimates pegging the mountain as the highest in North America at over 18,000 feet tall. Modern measurement reads 11,249 feet—oh, to live in a time where disinformation was wrought from lack of data instead of willful denial. Today Hood is the home of multiple ski resorts and is a hub of outdoor adventure. Take the trip from Stumptown to the hills and see for yourself.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: The Portland White Stag sign; hikers enjoy Portland’s urban playground at Forest Park; food from Afuri Izakaya; hops from Double Mountain Brewery; visitors enjoy the sun outside of Pittock Mansion

windsurfing. I rented equipment from Big Winds (207 Front St., Hood River, 541-3866086, bigwinds.com) and headed to the river,

volcanoes running along the country’s west coast. Remember, ski season never ends until you let it.

PHOTOS: (FOREST PARK) JUSTIN KATIGBAK / TRAVEL PORTLAND; (AFURI IZAKAYA) COURTESY AFURI IZAKAYA; (HOPS) COURTESY DOUBLE MOUNTAIN BREWERY

WHAT TO EAT

dusting off the remnants of windsurfing knowledge my father had imparted during my youth. I did mostly poorly, but the legendary winds were mercifully moderate so as not to thrash me too intensely. Lessons are available for those seeking more success than I was able to achieve. The following day I departed Hood River to head to the high slopes of Mount Hood. Timberline Lodge Ski Area (27500 E. Timberline Rd., Government Camp, 503-272-3311, timberlinelodge.com) offers lift-served skiing most of the year and is open at least until the end of May. The Palmer Glacier sits high on Mount Hood’s south flank, offering expansive ski terrain and stunning views of the chain down

I could write several books about what to eat and drink in Oregon, but I’ll try to boil it down to a few essentials for you. We’ll start with coffee, and for that you’re going to want to head to The Clearing Café (2772 NW Thurman St., Portland, 503-841-6240, theclearingcafe.com). Simply put, it’s the best cup of coffee I’ve ever tasted in my life. There’s a reason it ended up in a Portlandia episode. We can’t ignore the craft brewing culture either. The Cascade Brewing Barrel House (939 SE Belmont St., Portland, 503-2658603, cascadebrewing.com) has an impressive selection of handcrafted, barrel-brewed sour beers. Typical beers these ain’t, and your palate will enjoy the one-of-a-kind flavors on tap. For incredible dining in PDX you won’t do better than Afuri Izakaya (923 SE 7th Ave., Portland, 971-386-2945, afuri.us). The wonderful Japanese small plates and free flowing drinks are a delight, especially the asari sakamushi, which features sake steamed clams, shoyu koji and house sourdough. In Hood River, the best food and drinks come from the same establishment, Double Mountain Brewery (8 4th St., Hood River, 541-387-0042, doublemountainbrewery.com). The brick oven pizzas—try The Buffy with crumbled goat cheese, kalamatas and

peppadew peppers—and the beer—the Vaporizer, a refreshing dry-hopped pilsner, is my all-time favorite—are salvation after a day on the water.

WHERE TO STAY McMenamins Kennedy School (5736 NE 33rd Ave., Portland, 503-249-3983, mcmenamins.com) is one of several hotels associated with the McMenamins brewery in Portland. What makes this one stand out from the others is it’s actually located inside a former elementary schoolhouse. Some of the 57 rooms even have chalkboards on the walls. The on-site bar is an added bonus. Hood River’s Columbia Gorge Hotel (4000 Westcliff Dr., Hood River, 541-3865566, columbiagorgehotel.com) sits atop a cliff overlooking the truly stunning Columbia River Gorge. I assure you my words here don’t do the location justice. It’s the first place I ever spent an evening in Oregon, and I’ll never forget the view as the sun rose over the gorge the next morning. On Mount Hood, no place can compare to the Timberline Lodge (27500 E. Timberline Rd., Government Camp, 503-272-3311, timberlinelodge.com). The enormous building, which is just steps from the chairlift, was constructed during the 1930s by the Works Progress Administration during the Great Depression. The iconic hotel was used for the exterior shots in The Shining though as far as I know there’s nothing to fear in room 237.

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Fat biking in Pacific City

2 / HIKE TO WATERFALLS IN THE COLUMBIA RIVER GORGE

ROAD TRIP 1

SEVEN WONDERS OF THE BEAVER STATE

The 620-foot-tall Multnomah Falls is the tallest of 77 stunning waterfalls on the Oregon side of the Columbia River Gorge. A moderate hike gets you to the top, and the postcard-perfect Benson Bridge is worth a shot for the ’gram.

3 / GO MOUNTAIN BIKING AT MT. HOOD

From the misty coast to a temperate rainforest to arid high-desert hills, Oregon’s landscape is one of the dramatically varied natural wonders. Choosing just seven among them is a harrowing task, but one that allows the adventurous to sample the diversity on tap.

Take a rip down the famous Timberline to Town Trail, where more than five miles of singletrack wind down the mountain from Timberline resort to the town of Government Camp. Gravity lovers can lap the lifts at Timberline Bike Park.

1 / SURF THE OREGON COAST Paddle out for uncrowded waves at beautiful Pacific City. The weather is sometimes moody, but the peelers are perfect. Stop into Pelican Brewing Company after trading the wet suit for board shorts.

4 / TAKE A BOAT TOUR OF CRATER LAKE Experience the iconic geology of Crater Lake with a boat tour from Crater Lake Hospitality. The one-mile Cleetwood Cove Trail to the water’s edge is beautiful enough, and the three-hour stop

on Wizard Island gives you the chance to explore the unique area rarely seen up close.

5 / TRY ROCK CLIMBING AT SMITH ROCK The towering, volcanic ash spires of Smith Rock attract climbers from around the world. Smith Rock has thousands of routes to test every level of climber, and newbies can get a proper introduction with Smith Rock Climbing Guides.

6 / VISIT HELLS CANYON OVERLOOK IN THE WALLOWAS With more than 8,000 feet of drop to the Snake River, Hells

Canyon is the country’s deepest, dwarfing even the Grand Canyon for scale. An abundance of whitewater recreation awaits for those who’d prefer the view from rapids the on the river from the depth’s of this massive, deep canyon.

7 / GET LOST IN THE PAINTED HILLS The Martian-like vibes of eastern Oregon’s painted hills— punctuated with arid red hues— feel worlds away from the state’s soggy stereotype. John Day Fossil Beds National Monument is the gateway to exploring the surreal landscape.

Crater Lake National Park

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PHOTOS: (CRATER LAKE) SATOSHI ETO / TRAVEL OREGON; (BIKING) DYLAN VAN WEELDEN / TRAVEL OREGON

Start: Pacific City // End: Painted Hills

Megler Bridge and Cannery Pier in Astoria

ROAD TRIP 2

Fort Clatsop, where a full-size recreation of Lewis and Clark’s fort lets you walk in the footsteps of America’s most famous explorers.

JOURNEY DOWN THE COAST

2 / SEASIDE PROMENADE Visit Oregon’s first beach resort town at Seaside. Step back in time with old-fashioned family attractions including an arcade and carousel before enjoying the paved, oceanfront promenade.

Start: Astoria // End: Oregon Dunes National Recreation Area

PHOTO JONI KABANA / TRAVEL OREGON

History, stunning vistas and diverse recreation converge along Oregon’s coastline. Feel the refreshing sea breeze, explore the iconic, rocky shore and enjoy charming coastal towns.

3 / THREE CAPES SCENIC LOOP

1 / HISTORIC ASTORIA Start with a visit to the Columbia River Maritime Museum for a rundown on the Northwest’s rich seagoing history before stopping at

Take a side trip between Tillamook and Pacific City to enjoy three capes. Cape Meares has panoramic views and a historic lighthouse, Cape Lookout has pristine beach access and Cape Kiwanda has tide pools alongside enormous sand dunes and seaside cliffs.

we are here

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Thor’s Well BELOW: Wild Rose Northern Thai Eats, Sparks Lake below Broken Top Mountain

4 / TILLAMOOK BAY HERITAGE ROUTE Connecting five communities around Tillamook Bay—Barview, Garibaldi, Bay City, Tillamook and Cape Meares—the Heritage Route offers access to unspoiled natural beauty like the forested trails at Kilchis Point Reserve as well as local culture with indulgent stops along the North Coast Food Trail.

7 / OREGON DUNES NATIONAL RECREATION AREA For 40 miles between Florence and North Bend, enormous sand dunes dominate the coast. From day hikes at the Jessie M. Honeyman Memorial State Park to dune buggy tours in Florence, there are myriad ways to adventure.

5 / YAQUINA HEAD OUTSTANDING NATURAL AREA

ROAD TRIP 3

Outstanding is in the name! While the picturesque eponymous lighthouse is a gorgeous sight, it pales in comparison to the marine life including flocking sea birds and migrating gray whales you’ll see here.

CASCADE LAKES SCENIC BYWAY TOUR

Trails through the seaside rainforest and rocky coastline make the ideal coastal hiking setting. Attractions like the Spouting Horn, Devils Churn and Thor’s Well keep motivation high as the miles stack up.

Oregon Dunes

Alpine lakes scattered along the Central Oregon high country are the perfect targets for outdoor adventure. Backdropped by volcanic strata and the Cascade Range from Bend to the Three Sisters Wilderness, the Cascade Lakes Scenic Byway is a can’t-miss route.

1 / BEGIN IN BEND The sunny city at the heart of central Oregon is the gateway to Cascade Lakes adventure, but it has plenty of its own shine. Get some grub at Wild Rose Northern Thai Eats and some suds from local brewery 10 Barrel before you hit the road.

2 / CENTURY DRIVE TO MT. BACHELOR The road climbs from Bend towards Mt. Bachelor along the Deschutes River, with fishing and canoeing access, past lava flows

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and ponderosa pine forest before reaching the enormous volcano. Play along the way or head straight to Bachelor—it’s home to famed biking and hiking trails—which can be enjoyed adrenaline-free by riding the lift for a sunset dinner at Pine Marten Lodge.

3 / HIKE BROKEN TOP MOUNTAIN Leaving Bachelor, the road passes by Broken Top Mountain, an impressive stratovolcano. Lava dams and glacial ice have formed dozens of lakes in the area, some of which you’ll pass by along the Broken Top Trail.

4 / LAND OF LAKES An expansive wetland sits on the edge of Sparks Lake, a scenic

250-acre body of water. A short loop hike explores the jagged lava shore, a perfect encapsulation of the violent geologic activity that shaped the area. Nearby Devil’s Lake is a glowing emerald green waterway surrounded by evergreen trees.

5 / THREE SISTERS WILDERNESS The Pacific Crest Trail (PCT) extends into the Three Sister Wilderness, a nearly 300,000acre area highlighted by the Middle, North and South Sisters, all volcanic peaks reaching over 10,000 feet. Hike a section of the PCT, made famous by the 2014 film Wild or go fly fishing on the Deschutes River for the fabled lunker “Cranebow” rainbow trout.

PHOTOS: (THOR’S WELL) ADOBE STOCK; COURTESY WILD ROSE NORTHERN THAI EATS; (BROKEN MOUNTAIN) ADOBE STOCK; (SAND DUNES) TRAVEL OREGON

Start: Bend // End: Three Sisters Wilderness

6 / CAPE PERPETUA SCENIC AREA

Indigo Creek Outfitters

ROAD TRIP 4

WINE, WHITEWATER & OUTDOOR ADVENTURE

PHOTO COURTESY INDIGO CREEK OUTFITTERS

Start: Phoenix // End: Jacksonville Oregon’s wine culture is well-known, but wine tasting adventures needn’t be quiet, sit and sip affairs. Libations and adventure flow together in the Northwest.

1 / WHITEWATER AND WINE ON THE ROGUE Let the good times flow with a morning on the water followed by an afternoon of wine tasting. Indigo Creek Outfitters starts the

with stunning views. Finish the day at Kriselle Cellars where the wood-fired pizza pairs well with the cabernet sauvignon.

4 / TRESTLES AND TEST TUBES morning with a Rogue Valley Rapid Run before an afternoon of being toted around in the Bravo Outings wine tasting vehicle to a variety of local wineries.

in Oregon. Abacela provides hay to Wildlife Safari for their exotic wildlife, including rhinos, giraffes, zebras and lions, and receives nutrient-rich “zoo-doo” to use as fertilizer at the winery.

2 / GRAPES AND SAFARI IN THE UMPQUA VALLEY

3 / WILDFLOWERS, WINE AND PIZZA

Stop in at Abacela Vineyards— famous for their Tempranillo varieties—before heading to the neighboring Wildlife Safari, the only drive-through animal park

Start the day with a hike at Table Rocks, where wildflowers like the extremely rare dwarf wooly meadowfoam grow. The moderately easy hike rewards

Red Lily Vineyards serves up quirky fun with wine tastings out of test tubes in a beautiful setting along the Applegate River. The ports aren’t to be missed. Afterward, stop by the historic Mckee Bridge, a car-free, covered span built in 1917 to connect the town of Jacksonville to a nearby copper mine. It’s a wonderful spot to take a dip if the weather is right.

For more travel ideas, visit traveloregon.com.

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How a movie star, a cowgirl and a multigenerational ranching family helped ignite Utah’s land preser vation movement PHOTO STUART RUCKMAN

BY MELISSA FIELDS

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The Movie Star MOST OF THE WISDOM I HAVE IS A BY-PRODUCT OF WHAT I LEARNED IN THESE MOUNTAINS. —AMY REDFORD

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“We’re here about the future,” said Utah’s most famous transplant, Robert Redford. His sentiment was apt considering the occasion on the brisk October day in 1998 when he spoke those words while dedicating 860 acres at the base of Mount Timpanogos in Provo Canyon as the Redford Family Nature & Wildlife Preserve. Redford was in his late teens when he first laid eyes on the near-pristine meadows, aspen stands and conifer forests that he’d eventually own and then preserve into perpetuity. He came upon that high-alpine Shangri-la in the mid-1950s by happenstance, as he took a wrong turn up the canyon while commuting between his parents’ home in Los Angeles and college in Boulder, Colo. In 1961 he purchased two acres in Provo Canyon where he built an A-frame cabin for his young family. Eight years later, Redford leveraged himself heavily to

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buy the canyon’s rickety ski resort, Timp Haven, renamed it Sundance, and pledged to “develop a little, conserve a great deal.” Over the ensuing years, Redford, his first wife Lola Van Wagenen and three of their children—James, Shauna and Amy—would spend countless hours exploring every corner of the canyon, both together and alone, using the land as a refuge from the confines of Redford’s exponentially growing celebrity and learning resilience and self-reliance along the way. “Everything I needed to survive New York City I learned in that canyon,” says Redford’s youngest daughter, Amy. “I was a feral child. Most of the wisdom I have is a by-product of what I learned in these mountains.” As Redford’s career grew, so did his commitment to protecting land and water for future generations. He was a founding board member of the National Resource Defense Council, rallied a group of environmental activists to, in

PHOTOS: (ABOVE) KRISTINA LOGGIA, (RIGHT) UTAH OPEN LANDS STAFF

(Below) Robert Redford above the hills of Sundance Ski Resort. (Right) Stewart Falls Meadow

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of their backyard into a conservation easement with Utah Open Lands does not seem that unexpected. What is extraordinary, however, is how Redford, along with a southern Utah cowgirl and a multigenerational Box Elder County ranching family, embraced what was then a new idea and helped spark a movement with one goal: leaving the land be.

The Cowgirl In the early 1990s, a few years after she and her husband, Robert, ended their 23-year marriage, Heidi Redd heard a knock at the door. “It was a real estate agent from Jackson Hole hired by Robert to sell his half of the ranch,” Redd says. The ranch she is referring to is Dugout Ranch, 5,000-plus wild and scenic acres of red rock spires, desert grasslands and buttes located just south of Moab, bordered by Bears Ears National Monument, Indian Creek Recreation Area and the Manti-La Sal National Forest. “But I’m a cattle rancher, not a developer,” Redd says. “And I knew that if we divided the land that it would lose its heart and the only thing left to do then would be to develop it.” At the time, Redd sat on the board of the Canyonlands Field Institute. A fellow board member had recently worked with The Nature Conservancy of Utah (TNCU) to place his land in conservation easement, and it occurred to Redd that perhaps that may be the way she could prevent Dugout from becoming Moab 2.0. “A conservation easement is like a bundle of sticks,” explains Dave Livermore, longtime director of TNCU. “Lands placed under conservation easement with a land trust remain the property of the owner and can be sold like any other piece of land. But certain ‘sticks’—like building or mining rights—are no longer part of that bundle, preventing those uses as the land changes hands into perpetuity.” Owners of property placed in a conservation easement with a land trust are, of course, eligible for tax benefits like income tax deductions and estate tax credits, but those tax breaks rarely equate to a development cash-in. But money is, of course, not the point. “Love for the land is, far and away, the biggest reason families put their land in a conservation easement,” says Wendy Fisher, founder and executive director of Utah’s oldest land trust, Utah Open Lands. “A farmer I know summed it up pretty succinctly: ‘Concrete is the last crop.’ Open

PHOTOS: (LEFT/PORTRAIT) TED WOOD; (LEFT) STUART RUCKMAN, (RIGHT) STUART RUCKMAN

Top: Heidi Redd, a Southern Utah rancher who broke rank with her neighbors and put her land into conservation easement. Bottom and right: The Canyonlands Research Center was established on Redd’s ranch to study the intersection of climate change and land use.

1976, successfully prevent the construction of a power plant in what is now the Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument and attempted to find common ground among politicians, environmentalists and scientists through multiple summits at Sundance, including his so-called “Greenhouse Glasnost,” held in 1989 long before most were aware of global warming’s inconvenient truth. And so, considering both his familial connection to Provo Canyon and his greater concerns for the planet, the Redford family’s 1998 decision to place almost 900 acres

space is truly the final frontier and it’s up to all of our collective graces to protect it.” Redd’s initial conversations with TNCU evolved from placing the land under conservation easement to TNCU purchasing the land outright, with the commitment to maintain it as a working ranch and allow Redd to live there until her death. It took more than three years of negotiations with her ex-husband and other family members—“some friendly, some not so friendly,” Redd says—to bring everyone to consensus. In 1997, almost eight years after her divorce, Redd entered into a union that, both then and now, many in Utah view as downright blasphemous: a partnership between a rancher and an environmental organization. In 2009, TNCU deepened its commitment to Dugout with the establishment of the Canyonlands Research Center. There, scientists

from around the world study the intersection between climate change and land use, including how conservation and cattle ranching can coexist. Around 2015 Redd sold both her cattle herd and grazing rights to more than 300,000 acres, abutting Dugout to TNCU as well. Redd’s son and daughter-in-law, Matt and Kristen, now manage the herd at Dugout which now includes the ranch’s original Red Angus cows as well as Mexican Criollo cows that are smaller, lighter and able to graze farther from water. Regardless of what her peers or local lawmakers might think, Redd has no regrets about her decision to sell her land to TNCU. “The ranch is running half as many cattle now as when I was running it, which was half as many as when my ex-husband and I were running it together. 25 years ago, very few of us talked about climate change. You just can’t run the same number of

I KNEW THAT IF WE DIVIDED THE LAND THAT IT WOULD LOSE ITS HEART —HEIDI REDD

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—JAY TANNER

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The Rancher “My property is not Dugout,” explains Jay Tanner, describing his sprawling Della Ranch, 17,000 acres of sagebrush and open skies located northwest of the Great Salt Lake in the Grouse Creek Valley, where his family has run cattle since the 1870s. No real estate agents have called upon Tanner—Della Ranch’s acute remoteness has seen to that—but over the years Tanner had observed how juniper trees were becoming more and more prevalent on his family’s land. “They probably got a foothold with the arrival of white settlers,” Tanner says. The trees were sucking water from the grasses he

depends on to support his herd. And, as revealed by a Utah State University study, the juniper trees had drastically diminished the grassland’s previously robust greater sage-grouse populations. “This is home,” Tanner says. “We know we need to take care of it if it’s going to continue to be able to take care of us.” And so, the Tanner family, along with a few neighboring ranchers, partnered with TNCU and National Conservation Resource Service (NCRS) to improve more than 9,000 acres of greater sage-grouse habitat on their properties. Almost immediately, Tanner noticed more greater sage-grouse on his ranch; more elk, antelope, mountain lions, coyotes and other species followed. And yes, the grasses and forage flourished for his cows, too. “What’s good for the bird is good for the herd,” Tanner says.

PHOTOS STUART RUCKMAN

THIS IS HOME, WE KNOW WE NEED TO TAKE CARE OF IT IF IT’S GOING TO CONTINUE TO BE ABLE TO TAKE CARE OF US.

cows here that you once could. And I will not sacrifice this landscape for cattle,” she says.

LEAVE IT LOVED

Left: Della Ranch in Northwest Utah. Below: Jay Tanner.

In 2017, the Tanners doubled down on their land conservation efforts by placing 7,000 acres of Della Ranch in conservation easement, allowing a huge swath of the range to remain forever uninterrupted by homes or roads. The Tanner family was compensated for the easement by TNCU, NCRS and Utah’s LeRay McAllister Critical Land Conservation Fund, but again, at a fraction of what the payout would have been if he’d sold to a developer. “There’s no question that I had a financial interest in it,” Tanner says. “It helped us reduce our debt load and expand into other areas. But we also did it out of concern for the future. Maybe 100 years from now people smarter than me will have a different opinion, but now I know this land will always be as it is right now. And as we expand, this will not be the last easement we do.”

The Movement Whether or not the actions taken by the Redfords, Redds and Tanners have turned hearts and minds in Utah toward land conservation is speculative. But there’s no question that both the public and government are recognizing the value in keeping land open. “Conservation

was such a novel idea in the 1990s,” Fisher says. “But there’s emerged a very clear pace of landscapes being lost. The conversation started then about how we can balance open space and development to protect why Utah is so appealing in the first place.” Not all conservation easements are on “out there” lands like Dugout and Della ranches. Urban open spaces like The Draw at Sugar House, Wasatch Hollow and Wheadon Farm Regional Park are all under conservation easement. This means that the respite they provide from the buildings, roads and homes surrounding them—as well as the functional benefits they provide like absorbing water during spring runoffs and heat in the summer—will be in place forever. All told, the conservation easements held by nonprofit and government land trusts in Utah are in the millions of acres. A few of the higher-profile land conservation efforts that have occurred in the aughts and 2010s—both as conservation easements and outright purchases—include Empire Canyon, Round Valley, McPolin Farmlands and Bonanza Flat Conservation Area in Park City; the Emigration Canyon Preserve, Grandeur Peak Natural Area, the H Rock Preserve in

For many Utahns, getting out into Utah’s public open spaces was an invaluable tool for weathering the pandemic. Many of us are now also enjoying a new remote work life that allows getting out there seven days a week versus just on the weekends. The result, says Utah Open Lands’ Wendy Fisher, is that visitation to Utah’s public spaces has increased by 300% since March 2020. Heidi Redd is seeing the impacts of exploding visitation both in the Indian Creek Recreation Area, which neighbors Dugout Ranch and on the ranch itself, where camping is strictly prohibited. “The indiscriminate camping I see has become much more frequent,” Redd says. “We don’t matter here. What matters is the land and when it’s ruined, there is no more. We all need to recognize our part in preserving this landscape.” While Fisher acknowledges that the discovery of the outdoors by so many certainly improves many people’s quality of life, “we need to figure out ways to manage our open spaces, so they are not loved to death.” As such, Utah Open Lands has launched “Leave It Loved,” described by Fisher as “a call to challenge our inner stewards so that, in the exploration of nature, we take on the responsibility of being mindful of good trail etiquette, packing out what we and others pack in and respect the natural world and the species that inhabit these open spaces.” For details, visit utahopenlands.org.

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Salt Lake City; Bridal Veil Falls in Provo; Moab’s Castleton Tower; and Corner Canyon in Draper. “For many years public funding for open space in Utah was very modest compared to other states,” says Livermore, who has been the director of TNCU since it opened in Utah in 1984. “But in the last six years, the legislature has gotten younger and more forward-

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thinking and has appropriated more and more funds to open space preservation.” Livermore also credits Utah’s philanthropic community for stepping up in a big way. And both he and Fisher confirmed they are seeing more of what they term as “conservation buyers,” people who place land in conservation easement at the onset of purchase versus doing so after the land has been in their family for generations. “Conservation is about protecting land, never forgetting about what it could have been and being grateful for what was saved,” Fisher says. “Bonanza Flat was slated to be additional commercial ski resort development and an 18-hole golf course. I think in the end we’ll be much more grateful for what was preserved than what was developed.” In 2020, after a several years-long vetting process, Robert Redford sold his beloved Sundance Resort to Broadreach Capital Partners and Cedar Capital Partners. Part of the deal included the creation of the Redford Family Elk Meadows Preserve, 300 acres of wildlife habitat, streams and the Stewart Falls hiking

trail—a corner of the canyon dear to Redford, his children and grandchildren. “Part of being a responsible steward is understanding when it’s time to pass the torch forward,” Amy Redford says. The Elk Meadows Preserve “is one of my favorite pieces of land on the planet and it is very important to the overall experience of Sundance. A lot of my family’s emotions are connected to that place. We came together cohesively to protect it into the future and hope others will follow suit.” Not many actors or directors can claim the level of iconic, national treasure status earned by Robert Redford. But the words that he used to close out the dedication ceremony of the Redford Family Nature & Wildlife Preserve more than 20 years ago seem indicative of a legacy that matters to him perhaps even more. “This is my gift to my community, myself and most of all, my children, to pass on to their children, so they can experience the land as something real rather than something seen in movies, described in history books or only imagined.”

PHOTO STUART RUCKMAN

Della Ranch

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ON THE TABLE F O O D

T R E N D S

D I N I N G

GRAPE EXPECTATIONS

PHOTO ADAM FINKLE

BY JOSH PETERSEN

E A D O F F T H E B E AT E N PAT H with the starter course at Fenice, a downtown Mediterranean bistro from Silver Star Café owners Jeff and Lisa Ward. Grapes, marinated for 24 hours in sherry, fennel, brown sugar and garlic, are roasted in Fenice’s wood-fired oven and served with burrata, basil and crostini. Sweet, salty and totally addictive, the small plate has already become one of the restaurant’s signature dishes. Read more on page 88.

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WHERE TO EAT A select list of the best restaurants in Utah, curated and edited by

SALT LAKE CITY & THE WASATCH FRONT American Fine Dining ARLO 271 N. Center St., SLC, 385-266-8845. arlorestaurant.com

Chef Milo Carrier has created a destination in a small, charming house at the top of the Marmalade neighborhood. A fresh approach and locally sourced ingredients are the root of a menu that bridges fine and casual dining, at once sophisticated and homey.

BAMBARA 202 S. Main St., SLC, 801-363-5454. bambara-slc.com

THE CHARLESTON 1229 E. Pioneer Rd., Draper, 801-550-9348. thecharlestondraper.com

Offering gracious dining in Draper, Chef Marco Silva draws from many culinary traditions to compose his classic and exciting menu—artichoke souffle, braised halibut, ratatouille. The setting, in a historic home surrounded by gardens, is lovely and we love his high standards: No kids under 11 Friday and Saturday evenings and an indoor dress code.

GRAND AMERICA 555 S. Main St., SLC, 801-258-6708. grandamerica.com

Tiny, dynamic and food-driven, Pago’s ingredients are locally sourced and reimagined regularly. That’s why it’s often so crowded and that’s what makes it one of the best restaurants in the state. The list of wines by the glass is great, but the artisanal cocktails are also a treat.

HSL

PROVISIONS

418 E. 200 South, SLC, 801-539-9999. hslrestaurant.com

3364 S. 2300 East, SLC, 801-410-4046. slcprovisions.com

The initials stand for “Handle Salt Lake”—Chef Briar Handly made his name with his Park city restaurant, Handle, and now he’s opened a second restaurant down the hill. The place splits the difference between “fine” and “casual” dining; the innovative food is excellent and the atmosphere is casually convivial. The menu is unique—just trust this chef. It’s all excellent.

With Chef Tyler Stokes’ bright, fresh approach to American craft cuisine (and a bright, fresh atmosphere to eat it in), Provision strives for handmade and local ideals executed with style and a little humor.

9565 Wasatch Blvd., Sandy, 801-942-1751. lacaille.com

Utah’s original glamour girl has regained her luster. The grounds are as beautiful as ever; additions are functional, like a greenhouse, grapevines and vegetable gardens, all supplying the kitchen and cellar. The interior has been refreshed and the menu by Chef Billy Sotelo has today’s tastes in mind. Treat yourself.

HAofLL

FA M E

6451 E. Mill Creek Canyon Road, SLC, 801-2728255. log-haven.com

Certainly Salt Lake’s most picturesque restaurant, the old log cabin is pretty in every season. Chef Dave Jones has a sure hand with American vernacular and is not afraid of frying although he also has a way with healthy, low-calorie, high-energy food. And he’s an expert with local and foraged foods.

878 S. 900 East, SLC, 801-532-0777. pagoslc.com 341 S. Main St., SLC, 801-441-2955. pagoslc.com

This selective guide has no relationship to any advertising in the magazine. Review visits are anonymous, and all expenses are paid by Salt Lake magazine.

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LOG HAVEN

PAGO

Grand America Hotel’s Laurel Brasserie & Bar is

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Listings

one of the dinner/nightlife stars of the city, and the kitchen makes sure other meals here are up to the same standard. The setting here is traditionally elegant but don’t be intimidated. The food shows sophisticated invention, but you can also get a great sandwich or burger.

LA CAILLE

Chef Jerry Pacheco makes decisions about food based on sustainability and the belief that good food should be available to everybody. Prizing seasonally driven dishes sourced from local farmers, he turns out dishes with a community-minded sensibility.

Salt Lake magazine

HAofLL

FA M E

Dining Award Hall Of Fame Winner

SLC EATERY 1017 S. Main St., SLC, 801-355-7952. slceatery.com

The SLC Eatery offers culinary adventure. Expect equally mysterious and delightful entrees and exciting takes on traditional dishes.

TABLE X 1457 E. 3350 South, SLC, 385-528-3712. tablexrestaurant.com

A trio of chefs collaborate on a forward-thinking thoroughly artisanal menu—vegetables are treated as creatively as proteins (smoked sunchoke, chile-cured pumpkin, barbecued cannelini beans) bread and butter are made in-house and ingredients are the best (Solstice chocolate cake.) Expect surprises.

American Casual BLUE LEMON 55 W. South Temple, SLC, 801-328-2583. bluelemon.com

Blue Lemon’s sleek interior and high-concept food have city style. Informal but chic, many-flavored but healthy, Blue Lemon’s unique take on food is a happy change from downtown’s food-as-usual.

Quintessential Utah

Three locations, Salt Lake City, Holladay and Ogden. Open 7 days a week for dine-in, takeout and delivery through Doordash.

WB’s CBD Oil Isolated Spectrum Citrus

WB’s Eatery, we’re casual in every way; cocktails in the shaker, CBD Oil for dosing...your spot to kickback with friends, and live the lifestyle!

ON THE TABLE Moroccan Chicken

FENICE, FROM THE ASHES The owners of Silver Star Café start fresh with a new Mediterranean bistro BY JOSH PETERSEN

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Lisa and Jeff Ward

PHOTOS ADAM FINKLE

ince opening in 2010, Silver Star Café has been a not-so-secret secret favorite for Park City locals. Owners Jeff and Lisa Ward built a spot known for its welcoming mountain ambiance and fresh, original comfort food, winning acclaim and awards from practically everyone (including us). Silver Star’s not going anywhere, but the Wards have set their sights on a new concept in a new town with an entirely new menu. After searching for years to find the right location for a second restaurant, Jeff and Lisa settled on the former site of Fireside, right next door to the Eccles Theater in SLC’s arts and culture district. Fenice (pronounced feh-knee-chay, which Siri hasn’t yet figured out) translates to “phoenix” in Italian, which Lisa notes is appropriate: repurposing a closed restaurant during a pandemic is nothing if not rising from the ashes. Before opening, the couple warmed up the restaurant’s industrial interiors, replacing metal with wood, adding plenty of greenery and covering pillars with retro-cool floral wallpaper. Opening during a pandemic was an unforeseen challenge. “It turned out to be a bit more of a risk than we anticipated,” Lisa says, but the two forged ahead at the end of last year. The intimate space, a quirk of downtown real estate, has just 49 seats. “We weren’t put off by the small size, because that’s what we do at Silver Star,” Jeff says. Jeff and Lisa, who developed the menu with Rafael Zamora and Silver Star chef Derek Gherkins, wanted the food at Fenice to be distinct from the cuisine they are known for in Park City. The menu is anchored by classic Italian staples, like pizza cooked in a wood-fired oven and

house-made pasta. The four, though, take broader inspiration from the larger Mediterranean region, incorporating flavors from Greece, Spain, southern France and North Africa. This gave the Wards the chance to play with a broader range of flavors—and took some pressure off these non-Italians experimenting with a cuisine that often prizes authenticity. “We didn’t want to pretend to be something that we’re not,” Lisa says. The small kitchen, which has limited space for ingredients and no walk-in cooler, meant that the menu has IF YOU GO been pared down to Fenice essential favorites. 126 S. Regent St., SLC This may be a fenicebistroslc.com blessing in disguise— 801-359-4500 with the variety of cuisines represented, there is plenty of food to explore, but the relatively small menu feels curated and intentional. “We’re putting out food we really enjoy eating,” Lisa says. Fenice is a 21+ only restaurant with a wine list that emphasizes regional wines from Italy, Spain and southern France ordered especially for the restaurant. The cocktail menu from mixologist Fathom Croteau reinvents old classics. In the Pink, inspired by our late editor Mary Brown Malouf, is a variation on the Last Word cocktail, with a homemade raspberry shrub and mezcal replacing the traditional gin. Croteau says the drink includes some of Malouf ’s favorite things: the color pink, bold flavors and, of course, mezcal. When Jeff and Lisa opened Silver Star, they were well-known in Park City—both have lived in the community for decades. In a new—and larger—city, the Wards in some ways are starting over. “We’re asking for a lot of trust from people,” Lisa says. That trust is already being built, both from other downtown restaurateurs and businesses and from a growing number of fans, ranging from Gov. Spencer Cox to writer David Sedaris, who gave Fenice glowing marks before performing at the Eccles Theater. While growing their business, the Wards continue to focus on the most important thing—the food. “I have pages and pages of menu ideas,” Jeff says. With any justice, Jeff and Lisa will have plenty of time to test out those ideas to a cadre of loyal regulars in SLC.

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ON THE TABLE CAFE NICHE

HUB & SPOKE DINER

OASIS CAFE

779 E. 300 South, SLC, 801-433-3380.

1291 S. 1100 East, SLC, 801-487-0698.

151 S. 500 East, SLC, 801-322-0404.

caffeniche.com

hubandspokediner.com

oasiscafeslc.com

The food comes from farms all over northern Utah, and the patio is a local favorite when the weather is fine.

This contemporary diner serves the traditional three a day with an untraditional inventiveness applied to traditional recipes. Like, artisanal grilled cheese with spiked milkshakes. And mac and cheese made with spaetzle. Breakfast is king here— expect a line.

Oasis has a New Age vibe, but the food’s only agenda is taste. Lots of veg options, but meat, too. The German pancakes are wonderful, but its evening menu suits the space—being both imaginative and refreshing.

CITRIS GRILL 3977 S. Wasatch Blvd., SLC, 801-466-1202. citrisgrill.com

Most dishes come in either “hearty” or “petite” portion sizes. This means you can enjoy a smoked salmon pizzetta or fried rock shrimp appetizer and then a petite order of fire-roasted pork chops with adobo rub and black bean-corn salsa. Expect crowds.

COPPER KITCHEN 4640 S. 2300 East, Holladay, 385-237-3159. copperkitchenslc.com

A welcome addition to Holladay, Ryan Lowder’s Copper Kitchen reprises his downtown Copper Onion and Copper Common success with variations. The menu is different, but the heartiness is the same; the interior is different but the easy, hip atmosphere is the same, and the decibel levels are very similar.

COPPER ONION 111 E. Broadway, Ste. 170, SLC, 801-355-3282.

LEFT FORK GRILL 68 W. 3900 South, SLC, 801-266-4322. leftforkgrill.ipower.com

Every booth comes with its own dedicated pie shelf. Because no matter what you’re eating—liver and onions, raspberry pancakes, meatloaf or a reuben— you’ll want to save room for pie. Tip: Order your favorite pie first, in case they run out. Now serving beer and wine.

LITTLE AMERICA COFFEE SHOP 500 S. Main St., SLC, 801-596-5708. saltlake.littleamerica.com

Little America has been the favorite gathering place for generations of native Salt Lakers. Weekdays, you’ll find the city power players breakfasting in the coffee shop.

thecopperonion.com

An instant hit when it opened, constant crowds attest to the continuing popularity of Ryan Lowder’s Copper Onion. Though the hearty, flavorful menu changes regularly, some favorites never leave: the mussels, the burger, the ricotta dumplings. Bank on the specials.

CUCINA

LONDON BELLE SUPPER CLUB 321 S. Main St., SLC, 801-363-8888. londonbelleslc.com

It’s a combo deal—restaurant and bar. That means you have to be over 21 to enter but it also means that you can stay in one place all evening. Their kitchen serves up everything from duck confit nachos to their signature 12-ounce Niman Ranch ribeye.

1026 E. 2nd Ave., SLC, 801-322-3055. cucinawinebar.com

MOOCHIE’S MEATBALLS

Cucina has added fine restaurant to its list of descriptors—good for lunch or a leisurely dinner. The menu has recently expanded to include small plates and substantial beer and wine-by-the-glass lists.

232 E. 800 South, SLC, 801-596-1350; 2121 S. State St., South Salt Lake, 801-487-2121; 7725 S. State St., Midvale, 801-562-1500. moochiesmeatballs.com

THE DODO 1355 E. 2100 South, SLC, 801-486-2473. thedodorestaurant.com

It’s hard even to update the review of this venerable bistro. So much stays the same. But, like I always say, it’s nice to know where to get quiche. And our raspberry crepes were great. Yes, I said crepes.

EPICURE 707 E. Fort Union Blvd., Midvale, 801-748-1300. epicureslc.com

American food here borrows from other cuisines. Save room for pineapple sorbet with stewed fresh pineapple.

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This itty-bitty eatery/take-out joint is the place to go for authentic cheesesteaks made with thinly sliced steak and griddled onions glued together with good ol’ American cheese and wrapped in a big, soft socalled French roll.

NOMAD EAST 1675 E. 1300 South, SLC, 801-883-9791. nomad-east.com

Nomad East is cousin to the original, now-closed Nomad Eatery. It’s in the charmed location on 1300 South where Eggs in the City used to be. Everything here is cooked in a pizza oven, even the roasted chicken (a must-have.) Chef Justin is a salad wizard. Fun and excellence combined.

OQUIRRH 368 E. 100 South, 801-359-0426. oquirrhslc.com

Little and original chef-owned bistro offers a menu of inventive and delicious dishes—whole curried lamb leg, chicken confit pot pie, milk-braised potatoes— it’s all excellent.

PIG AND A JELLY JAR 401 E. 900 South, SLC, 385-202-7366; 227 25th St., Ogden, 801605-8400; 1968 E. Murray Holladay Rd., Holladay, 385-695-5148. pigandajellyjar.com

Great chicken and waffles, local eggs, and other breakfasts are served all day, with homestyle additions at lunch and supper on Thursdays through Sundays.

PORCH 11274 S. Kestrel Rise Rd., Bldg. G, South Jordan, 801-679-1066, porchutah.com

A chef-owned restaurant in the new urban community of Daybreak, this sleek little cafe was conceived by Meditrina owner Jen Gilroy and focuses on locallysourced cuisine with southern touches.

PORCUPINE PUB AND GRILLE 3698 E. Fort Union Blvd., SLC, 801-942-5555. porcupinepub.com

With 24 beers on tap available for only $2 every Tuesday, Porcupine has practically created its own holiday. Chicken noodle soup has homemade noodles and lots of chicken. Burgers and chile verde burritos are good, too.

ROOTS CAFÉ 3474 S. 2300 East, Millcreek, 801-277-6499. rootscafeslc.com

A charming little daytime cafe in Millcreek with a wholesome, granola vibe.

RUTH’S DINER 4160 Emigration Canyon Rd., SLC, 801-582-5807. ruthsdiner.com

The original funky trolley car is almost buried by the beer garden in fine weather, but Ruth’s still serves up diner food in a low-key setting, and the patio is one of the best. Collegiate fare like burgers, BLTs and enchiladas rule here. The giant biscuits come with every meal, and the chocolate pudding should.

SILVER FORK LODGE 11332 E. Big Cottonwood Canyon Rd., Brighton, 801-533-9977. silverforklodge.com

Silver Fork’s kitchen handles three daily meals beautifully. Try pancakes made with a 50-year-old sourdough starter. Don’t miss the smoked trout and brie appetizer.

STELLA GRILL 4291 S. 900 East, SLC, 801-288-0051. stellagrill.com

A cool little arts-and-crafts-style café, Stella is balanced between trendy and tried-and-true. The careful cooking comes with moderate prices. Great for lunch.

TIBURON 8256 S. 700 East, Sandy, 801-255-1200. tiburonfinedining.com

Servings at Tiburon are large and rich: elk tenderloin was enriched with mushrooms and demi-glace; a big, creamy wedge of St. Andre came with pork belly. In summer, tomatoes come from the garden.

TRADITION 501 E. 900 South, SLC, 385-202-7167. traditionslc.com

Plan your meal knowing there will be pie at the end of it. Then snack on pigs-in-blankets (sausage from artisan butcher Beltex) and funeral potatoes. Fried chicken, braised pork, chicken and dumplings are equally homey. Then, pie.

Bakeries AMOUR CAFE 1329 S. 500 East, SLC, 801-467-2947. amourspreads.com

The jammin’ duo John and Casee Francis have a home for their Amour Fruit Spreads business, sharing space with a brightly-lighted cafe and plenty of fresh pastry. Plus, gelato.

THE BAKING HIVE 3362 S. 2300 East, SLC, 801-419-0187. bakinghive.com

Tucked behind Provisions restaurant, this homespun bakery uses real butter and cream. Classes allow kids to ice and decorate their own cakes and they offer gluten-free options, too.

THE BAGEL PROJECT 779 S. 500 East, SLC, 801-906-0698, bagelproject.com

“Real” bagels are the whole story here, made by a homesick East Coaster. Of course, there’s no New York water to make them with, but other than that, these are as authentic as SLC can get.

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OLD SOUL, YOUNG AT HEART Niño Viejo provides Davis County with a new innovative Latin dining experience BY CAITLYN NICHOLS

n the heart of Farmington’s Station Park, with tall, slim windows and an outdoor patio offering a view of the fountain plaza, sits the new Latin concept restaurant Niño Viejo. The name means “Old Boy,” describing the style of not just the contemporary farmhouse interior but also the food: “old soul, young at heart.” The focus is using old-world methods—like making things from scratch, marinating meat for up to 18 hours and using fresh ingredients—to create a youthful, unique spin on an upscale Latin dining experience. When the COVID-19 pandemic hit, Gavin Dickson, investor and managing partner with Salt Coast Restaurant Group, started a nonprofit with his two daughters called Utah Pay It Forward, which delivered food from local restaurants to kids who had been dependent on school lunches

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that were no longer available. While running the nonprofit, he saw many restaurants close, losing prime locations and laying off employees. “One thing I’ve learned over the years of doing business is that you want to get in when it’s low,” Dickson says. In a moment of peril for the industry, he saw an opportunity to fulfill his childhood dream of owning a restaurant. “I should probably get into the restaurant business and try to weather this storm,” he inexplicably thought. Dickson is a risk-taker and was IF YOU GO determined to forge ahead in the Niño Viejo middle of the pandemic, but the timing 160 W. Promontory, wasn’t without its difficulties. Masks, Farmington ninoviejoutah.com limited seating and staffing shortages 801-451-1967 made the launch difficult, but Niño Viejo has already gained a following. “We’ve done really well, to be honest. I think we’ve done really well because of our elevated concept,” Dickson says. “It’s fun to get to the tail end, it looks like, of what’s been happening and to start seeing things increase.” With Niño Viejo, Dickson wanted to give Utah diners an “elevated experience” inspired by one of his favorite Mexican restaurants, the Southern California eatery Javier’s. The menu features interpretations of shareable items, from tamales to flautas to, of course, a wide selection of tacos served on fresh soft corn tortillas. Tacos are a well-loved staple at most Mexican restaurants, but Chef Derek Brown gives diners options that they may not have seen before, like lobster and Wagyu beef tacos. Birria tacos, filled with crispy shredded beef and melted Chihuahua cheese and served with a deliciously flavorful red chili broth for dipping, are, for good reason, the number one selling item at Niño Viejo. Dickson’s favorite, however, is the Diablo-style shrimp tacos, which are dumbfoundingly delicious. Niño Viejo also boasts ceviche marinated in citrus, chilis and onion. And the table is always set with complimentary fresh tortilla chips and Brown’s flavorful house salsa. (It automatically starts fairly mild, but you can request a cup of his spicier version.) At Niño Viejo’s long bar, the focus is on pairing quality tequila with great flavors for a fun, upscale cocktail menu featuring amazing margaritas. (Dickson suggests the strawberry margarita and the coconut mojito.) After taking a pandemic risk that paid off, Dickson’s start in the restaurant industry has been an unqualified success. At Niño Viejo, diners can expect a special experience with high-quality Latin food that they may not have had before, and which will leave them wanting to come back for more. “We want people to leave here and be like, ‘I have to go back. I’ve got to share this with my family and my friends,’” Dickson says.

PHOTOS COURTESY NIÑO VIEJO

ON THE TABLE

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ON THE TABLE THE BIG O DOUGHNUTS

LA BONNE VIE

VOSEN’S BREAD PARADISE

248 W. 900 South, SLC, 385-770-7024.

555 S. Main St., SLC, 801-258-6708.

328 W. 200 South, SLC, 801-322-2424. vosen.com

bigodoughnuts.square.site

grandamerica.com

Vegan. Doughnuts. Need we say more? Blueberrylavender, tofutti cream cheese, etc.

Cuter than a cupcake, Grand America’s pastry shop has all the charm of Paris. The pretty windows alone are worth a visit.

This German-style bakery’s cases are full of Eifelbrot, Schwarzbrot, Krustenbrot and lots of other Brots as well as sweet pastries and fantastic Berliners.

BISCOTTS BAKERY & CAFE

Barbecue & Southern Food

1098 W. Jordan Pkwy., South Jordan, 801-890-0659; 6172 W. Lake

LES MADELEINES

Ave., South Jordan, 801-295-7930. biscotts.com

216 E. 500 South, SLC, 801-673-8340. lesmadeleines.com

PAT’S BARBECUE

The kouign aman still reigns supreme among Salt Lake City pastries, but with a hot breakfast menu and lunch options, Les Mad is more than a great bakery.

SLC, 385-528-0548. patsbbq.com

An Anglo-Indian teahouse, Lavanya Mahate’s (Saffron Valley) latest eatery draws from intertwined cultures, serving tea and chai, English treats and French pastries with a hint of subcontinental spice.

CARLUCCI’S BAKERY

MRS. BACKER’S PASTRY SHOP

314 W. 300 South, SLC, 801-366-4484. carluccisbakery.com

Plus a few hot dishes make this a fave morning stop. For lunch, try the herbed goat cheese on a chewy baguette.

CITY CAKES & CAFE 1860 S. 300 West, D, SLC, 801-359-2239. 192 E. 12300 South, Ste. A, Draper, 801-572-5500. citycakescafe.com

Gluten-free that is so good you’ll never miss it. Or the dairy—City Cakes has vegan goodies, too. And epic vegan mac n’ chezah.

EVA’S BAKERY 155 S. Main St., SLC, 801-355-3942. evasbakeryslc.com

A smart French-style cafe and bakery in the heart of downtown. Different bakers are behind the patisserie and the boulangerie, meaning sweet and daily breads get the attention they deserve. Go for classics like onion soup and croque monsieur, but don’t ignore other specials and always leave with at least one loaf of bread.

FILLINGS & EMULSIONS 1475 S. Main St., SLC, 385-229-4228. fillingsandemulsions.com

This little West-side bakery is worth finding—its unusual pastries find their way into many of Salt Lake’s fine restaurants. Pastry Chef Adalberto Diaz combines his classical French training with the tropical flavors of his homeland. The results are startlingly good and different.

250 S. 300 East, SLC, 801-328-3330, 725 E. 12300 South, Draper, 801-571-1500. gourmandise.com

This downtown mainstay has cheesecakes, cannoli, napoleons, pies, cookies, muffins and flaky croissants. And don’t forget breads and rolls to take home.

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One of Salt Lake City’s best, Pat’s brisket, pork and ribs deserve the spotlight but sides are notable here, too. Don’t miss “Burnt End Fridays.”

R&R BBQ

434 E. South Temple, SLC, 801-532-2022. mrsbackers.com

307 W. 600 South, SLC, 801-364-0443.

A Salt Lake tradition, Mrs. Backer’s is a butter cream fantasy. Fantastic colors, explosions of flowers, most keyed to the current holiday created from Americanstyle butter cream icing, fill this old-fashioned shop.

Owned by brothers Rod and Roger Livingston, winners on the competitive barbecue circuit. Ribs and brisket star, but fried okra steals the show.

PASSION FLOUR PATISSERIE 165 E. 900 South, SLC, 385-242-7040. passionflourslc.com

A vegan-friendly cafe located in an up-and-coming neighborhood. They offer coffee and tea lattes and a variety of croissants: the crust is flaky and buttery (despite the lack of butter). They also bake up some deliciously moist custom vegan cakes for any occasion.

RUBY SNAP FRESH COOKIES 770 S. 300 West, SLC, 801-834-6111. rubysnap.com

The Trudy, Ruby Snap’s classic chocolate-chip cookie. But it’s just a gateway into the menu of delicious fresh cookies behind the counter at Ruby Snap’s retro-chic shop on Salt Lake’s west side.

SO CUPCAKE 4002 S. Highland Dr., SLC, 801-274-8300. socupcake.com

Choose a mini or a full cake, mix and match cakes and icings, or try a house creation, like Hanky Panky Red Velvet.

TULIE BAKERY

GOURMANDISE

155 W. Commonwealth Ave., SLC, 801-484-5963; 2929 S. State St.,

863 E. 700 South, SLC, 801-883-9741; 1510 S. 1500 East, SLC, 801-410-4217. tuilebakery.com

You can get a little spiritual about pastries this good on a Sunday morning, but at Tulie you can be just as uplifted by a Wednesday lunch.

Other locations. randrbbq.com

THE SUGARHOUSE BARBECUE COMPANY 880 E. 2100 South, SLC, 801-463-4800. sugarhousebbq.com

This place is a winner for pulled pork, Texas brisket or Memphis ribs. Plus killer sides, like Greek potatoes.

Bar Grub & Brewpubs (Also check bar listings.)

AVENUES PROPER PUBLICK HOUSE 376 8th Ave., SLC, 385-227-8628. avenuesproper.com

It’s a restaurant and brewpub, with the emphasis on small plates and late hours. The food is inventive, the beer is good and—big plus—they serve cocktails as well as brew at this neighborhood hot spot.

BOHEMIAN BREWERY 94 E. 7200 South., Midvale, 801-566-5474. bohemianbrewery.com

Bohemian keeps a firm connection to its cultural history—so to go with the wonderful Czech beer, you can nosh on potato pancakes, pork chops and goulash. There’s also plenty of American beer fare.

LEVEL CROSSING BREWING CO. 2496 S. West Temple, SLC, 385-270-5752. levelcrossingbrewing.com

Going out to grab a beer with your closest circle, your homies, in South Salt Lake. Crafted beers come with a light fare menu offering a vegan wrap, BLT or classic Italian hoagie.

DESERT EDGE BREWERY

MILLCREEK CAFÉ & EGGWORKS

PUBLIK KITCHEN

273 S. Trolley Square, SLC, 801-521-8917.

3084 E. 3300 South, SLC, 801-485-1134.

931 E. 900 South, SLC, 385-229-4205. publikcoffee.com

desertedgebrewery.com

millcreekcafeandeggworks.com

Good pub fare and freshly brewed beer make this a hot spot for shoppers, the business crowd and ski bums.

This spiffy neighborhood place is open for lunch, but breakfast is the game. Items like a chile verdesmothered breakfast wrap and the pancakes offer serious sustenance.

Same ownership as Publik coffee, only the Kitchen has a more extensive menu. Don’t miss the BLT, made with tomato jam.

RED ROCK BREWING 254 S. 200 West, SLC, 801-521-7446; 6227 State St., Murray, 801-262-2337. redrockbrewing.com

Red Rock proves the pleasure of beer on its own and as a complement to pizzas, rotisserie chicken and chile polenta. Not to mention brunch. Also in the Fashion Place Mall.

SQUATTERS PUB BREWERY 147 W. Broadway, SLC, 801-363-2739. squatters.com

One of the “greenest” restaurants in town, Squatters brews award-winning beers and pairs them with everything from wings to ahi tacos.

WASATCH BREWPUB 2110 S. Highland Dr., SLC, 801-783-1127. wasatchbeers.com

Part of the same mega “boutique” group that produces Squatters and Wasatch beers and runs the pubs in Salt Lake City and Park City with those names, this extension is everything you expect a brewpub to be—hearty food, convivial atmosphere, lots of beer and a great late-ish option.

Breakfast/Lunch Only THE DAILY 222 S. Main St., Ste. 140, SLC, 385-322-1270. thedailyslc.com

Chef Ryan Lowder’s only non-Copper restaurant (Onion, Commons, Kitchen) is open all day for breakfast, lunch and noshing. Call in and pick up lunch, stop in and linger over Stumptown coffee, take some pastries to go and don’t miss the biscuits.

EGGS IN THE CITY 2795 S. 2300 East, SLC, 801-581-0809. eggsinthecityslc.com

A familiar face in a whole new space—the favored breakfast joint has moved to Millcreek. Hip and homey, all at once.

FINN’S CAFE 1624 S. 1100 East, SLC, 801-467-4000. finnscafe.net

The Scandinavian vibe comes from the heritage of owner Finn Gurholt. At lunch, try the Nordic sandwiches, but Finn’s is most famous for breakfast (best pancakes in town), served until the doors close at 2:30 p.m.

SHAKE SHACK 11020 State St., Ste. B, Sandy, shakeshack.com

Burgers, Sandwiches & Delis DIVERSION 535 N. 300 West, SLC, 801-657-7327.

The national favorite has landed in Utah and surely there will be more to come. Danny Meyer’s all-American favorite serves burgers, mediocre fries and milkshakes, along with other fast food faves. Play board games and try one of their super cool shake flavors.

diversioneatery.com

Much-needed neighborhood eatery serving burgers, dogs, chili and fries. Try the “burger bowl”—just what it sounds like and twice as messy.

FELDMAN’S DELI 2005 E. 2700 South, SLC, 801-906-0369. feldmansdeli.com

Finally, SLC has a Jewish deli worthy of the name. Stop by for your hot pastrami fix or to satisfy your latke craving or your yen for knishes.

LUCKY 13 135 W. 1300 South, SLC, 801-487-4418. lucky13slc.com

A biker-bar-inspired burger joint, Lucky 13 has won first place for burgers in the World Food Championships. You can choose from the regular menu of 11 burgers, ranging from the foot-tall “Big Benny” with its 28 ounces of ground chuck to the “Ring of Fire,” topped with jalapeños and habaneros to the Fungus Amongus, featuring mushrooms sauteed in red wine. With so many choices, you’re bound to find one you like. This is a 21+ establishment.

PRETTY BIRD CHICKEN 146 S. Regent St., SLC; 675 E. 2100 South, SLC; prettybirdchicken.com.

Chances are you’ll still have to wait in line for Chef Viet Pham’s Nashville hot chicken. There is really only one thing on the menu—spicy fried chicken on a bun or on a plate. Go early—Pretty Bird closes when the kitchen runs out of chicken.

PROPER BURGER AND PROPER BREWING 865 S. Main St., SLC, 801-906-8604. properburgerslc.com

Sibling to Avenues Proper, the new place has expanded brewing and burger capacity, two big shared patios. And ski-ball.

SIEGFRIED’S DELICATESSEN 20 W. 200 South, SLC, 801-355-3891. siegfriedsdelicatessen.com

The only German deli in town is packed with customers ordering bratwurst, wiener schnitzel, sauerkraut and spaetzle.

TONYBURGERS 613 E. 400 South, SLC, 801-410-0531; Other Utah locations. tonyburgers.com

This home-grown burger house serves fresh-ground beef, toasted buns, twice-fried potatoes and milkshakes made with real scoops of ice cream.

Coffee CAFFE D’BOLLA 249 E. 400 South, #100, SLC, 801-355-1398. caffedbolla.com

John Piquet is a coffee wizard—a cup of his specially roasted siphon brews is like no other cup of coffee in the state. His wife, Yiching, is an excellent baker.

LA BARBA 155 E. 900 South, SLC; 9 S. Rio Grande, SLC, 13811 Sprague Ln., Draper, 385-429-2401. labarbacoffee.com

Owned by locally owned coffee roasters—a favorite with many local restaurants—this little cafe off of George serves coffee, tea, chocolate and pastries.

PUBLIK 502 E. 3rd Ave., SLC, 385-229-4836; 975 S. West Temple, SLC, 801-355-3161. publikcoffee.com

Serving the latest in great coffee; the old-school java joint made for long conversations; a neo-cafe where you can park with your laptop and get some solo work done.

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ON THE TABLE SALT LAKE ROASTING COMPANY 820 E. 400 South, SLC, 801-363-7572.

diners. The fast-casual concept offers spins of classic dishes like dan-dan noodles and dumplings.

BOMBAY HOUSE

roasting.com

SLC’s original coffee shop owner John Bolton buys and roasts the better-than-fair-trade beans.

Central & South American 350 S. State St., SLC, 385-301-8905. arempas.com

Happy, casual Venezuelan food—arepas, tequenos, cachapas—basically everything is cornmeal filled with pulled beef, chicken or pork and fried. But— also the same fillings between slices of plantains. And a chocolate filled tequena.

BRAZA GRILL 5927 S. State St., Murray, 801-506-7788. brazagrillutah.com

Meat, meat and more meat is the order of the day at this Brazilian-style churrascaria buffet.

565 W. 200 South, SLC, 801-531-7010. hongkongteahouse.yolasite.com

J. WONG’S BISTRO 163 W. 200 South, SLC, 801-350-0888. jwongs.com

Drawing from their Thai and Chinese heritage, J. Wong’s menu allows you to choose either. Lunch— Chinese or Thai—isn’t a good deal. It’s a great deal. Don’t miss the ginger whole fish or the Gunpowder cocktail. Call ahead for authentic Peking duck.

French & European BRUGES WAFFLE AND FRITES

RODIZIO GRILL

336 W. Broadway, SLC, 801-363-4444; 2314 S. Highland Dr., 801-486-9999. brugeswaffles.com

600 S. 700 East, SLC, 801-220-0500. rodiziogrill.com

The salad bar offers plenty to eat, but the best bang for the buck is the Full Rodizio, a selection of meats—turkey, chicken, beef, pork, seafood and more—plus vegetables and pineapple, brought to your table until you cry “uncle.”

Chinese & Pan-Asian ASIAN STAR 7588 S. Union Park Ave., Midvale, 801-566-8838. asianstarrestaurant.com

The menu is not frighteningly authentic or disturbingly Americanized. Dishes are chef-driven, and Chef James seems most comfortable in the melting pot.

BOBA WORLD 512 W. 750 South, Woods Cross, 801-298-3626. bobaworld.blogspot.com

This mom-and-pop place is short on chic, but the food on the plate provides all the ambiance you need. Try the scallion pancakes, try the Shanghai Fat Noodles, heck, try the kung pao chicken. It’s all good.

GINGER STREET 324 S. State St., Ste. 150, SLC., 385-477-4975. gingerstreet.com

Chef Tyler Stokes, who owns Provisions, owns Ginger Street indulging his passion for Southeast Asian food, and providing an alternative for downtown

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HONG KONG TEA HOUSE & RESTAURANT Authentic, pristine and slightly weird is what we look for in Chinese food. Tea House does honorable renditions of favorites, but it is a rewarding place to go explore.

AREMPA’S

Indian

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The original tiny shop turns out waffles made with pearl sugar. Plus frites, Belgian beef stew and a gargantuan sandwich called a mitraillette with merguez. Other locations have bigger menus.

CAFÉ MADRID 5244 S. Highland Dr., Holladay, 801-273-0837. cafemadrid.net

Authentic dishes like garlic soup share the menu with port-sauced lamb shank. Service is courteous and friendly at this family-owned spot.

2731 E. Parley’s Way, SLC, 801-581-0222; 463 N. University Ave., Provo, 801-373-6677; 7726 Campus View Dr., #120, West Jordan, 801-282-0777. bombayhouse.com

This biryani mainstay is sublimely satisfying, from the wise-cracking Sikh host to the friendly server, from the vegetarian entrees to the tandoor-grilled delights. No wonder it’s been Salt Lake’s favorite subcontinental restaurant for 20 years.

CURRY IN A HURRY 2020 S. State St., SLC, 801-467-4137. ilovecurryinahurry.com

The Nisar family’s restaurant is tiny, but fast service and fair prices make this a great take-out spot. But if you opt to dine in, there’s always a Bollywood film on the telly.

HIMALAYAN KITCHEN 360 S. State St., SLC, 801-328-2077; 11521 4000 West, South Jordan, 801-254-0800. himalayankitchen.com

Indian-Nepalese restaurant with an ever-expanding menu. Start the meal with momos, fat little dumplings like pot stickers. All the tandoor dishes are good, but Himalayan food is rare, so go for the quanty masala, a stew made of nine different beans.

KATHMANDU 3142 S. Highland Dr., SLC, 801-466-3504; 250 W. 2100 South, SLC, 801-935-4258; 863 E. 9400 South, Sandy, 801-981-8943. thekathmandu.net

Try the Nepalese specialties, including spicy pickles to set off the tandoor-roasted meats. Both goat and sami, a kibbeh-like mixture of ground lamb and lentils, are available in several styles.

FRANCK’S 6263 S. Holladay Blvd., SLC, 801-274-6264. francksfood.com

ROYAL INDIA

Founding chef Franck Peissel’s influence can still be tasted—personal interpretations of continental classics. Some, like the meatloaf, are perennials, but mostly the menu changes according to season and the current chef’s whim.

ful, 801-292-1835. royalindiautah.com

MONSIEUR CRÊPES 1617 S. 900 East, SLC, 787-358-9930. monsieurcrepesut.us

This French-style creperie offering both savory— Brie, prosciutto, tomato—and sweet—whipped cream, fruit, chocolate—fillings. The famous Gallic pancake evolved from a food truck into a charming cafe with a very pretty patio.

10263 S. 1300 East, Sandy, 801-572-6123; 55 N. Main St., Bounti-

Northern Indian tikka masalas and Southern Indian dosas allow diners to enjoy the full range of Indian cuisine.

SAFFRON VALLEY EAST INDIA CAFE 26 E. E St., SLC, 801-203-3325. saffronvalley.com

Lavanya Mahate has imported her style of Indian cooking from South Jordan to SLC. Besides terrific lunch and dinner menus, East Indian Cafe offers regular celebrations of specialties like Indian street food or kebabs. Stay tuned.

SAFFRON VALLEY 1098 W. South Jordan Pkwy., South Jordan, 801-438-4823. saffronvalley.com

Highlighting South Indian street food, one of the glories of subcontinental cuisine, Lavanya Mahate’s restaurant is a cultural as well as culinary center, offering cooking classes, specialty groceries and celebration as well as great food.

SAFFRON VALLEY 479 E. 2100 South, SLC, 801-203-3754.

CAPUTO’S MARKET AND DELI 314 W. 300 South, SLC, 801-531-8669; 1516 S. 1500 East, SLC, 801-486-6615; 4670 Holladay Village Plaza, Holladay, 801-2720821. caputos.com

A great selection of olive oils, imported pastas, salamis and house-aged cheeses, and the largest selections of fine chocolate in the country. The deli menu doesn’t reflect the market, but is a reliable source for meatball sandwiches and such.

saffronvalley.com

CUCINA TOSCANA

Yet another iteration of Lavanya Mahate’s vision of her homeland, this Saffron Valley location combines the best of her other three restaurants: Indian street foods, classic Indian and the Indian-Anglo bakery.

282 S. 300 West., SLC, 801-328-3463.

TANDOOR INDIAN GRILL 3300 S. 729 East, SLC, 801-486-4542; 4828 S. Highland Dr., Holladay, 801-999-4243. tandoorindiangrill.com

Delicious salmon tandoori, sizzling on a plate with onions and peppers like fajitas, is mysteriously not overcooked. Friendly service.

Italian & Pizza ARELLA PIZZERIA

toscanaslc.com

This longtime favorite turns out Italian classics like veal scaloppine, carbonara and a risotto of the day in a chic setting. A tiny cup of complimentary hot chocolate ends the meal.

ESTE PIZZA 2148 S. 900 East, SLC, 801-485-3699; 156 E. 200 South, SLC, 801-363-2366. estepizzaco.com

Try the “pink” pizza, topped with ricotta and marinara. Vegan cheese is available, and there’s microbrew on tap.

NUCH’S PIZZERIA

THE PIE PIZZERIA 1320 E. 200 South, SLC, 801-582-5700; 3321 S. 200 East, South Salt Lake, 801-466-5100; 7186 Union Park Ave, Midvale, 801-233-1999; 10627 Redwood Rd., South Jordan, 801-495-4095. thepie.com

Students can live, think and even thrive on a diet of pizza, beer and soft drinks, and The Pie is the quintessential college pizzeria. While the original is a University neighborhood instituion, more locations have popped up around the valley to serve more than just the collegiate crowd.

PIZZERIA LIMONE 613 E. 400 South, SLC, 801-953-0200; 1380 E. Fort Union Blvd., SLC, 801-733-9305; 11464 S. Parkway Plaza Dr., Ste. 100, South Jordan, 801-495-4467; 42 W. 11400 South, Sandy, 801-666-8707. pizzerialimone.com

The signature pie at this local chain features thinly sliced lemons. Service is cafeteria-style, meaning fast, and the pizza, salads and gelato are remarkably good.

PIZZA NONO 925 E. 900 South, SLC, 801-702-3580. pizzanono-slc.com

Small, kick-started pizzeria in 9th and 9th neighborhood has a limited but carefully sourced menu, a small but good list of wine and beer and an overflowing feeling of hospitality.

535 W. 400 North, Bountiful, 801-294-8800. arellapizzeria.com

2819 S. 2300 East, Millcreek, 801-484-0448. nuchspizza.com

Chic pizza in Bountiful. Arella’s pies appeal to pizza purists, traditionalists and adventurers, with woodfired crusts and toppings that range from pear to jalapeño.

A New York-sized eatery (meaning tiny) offers big flavor via specialty pastas and wonderful bubbly crusted pizzas. Ricotta is made in house.

SALT LAKE PIZZA & PASTA

OSTERIA AMORE

And sandwiches and burgers and steak and fish. The menu here has expanded far beyond its name.

BRICKS CORNER 1465 S. 700 East, SLC, 801-953-0636. brickscornerslc.com

Bricks is the sole purveyor of Detroit-style pizza in Salt Lake City, baked in a steel pan and smothered in cheese, some might think it resembles a lasagna more than a pizza. You’ll want to come hungry.

224 S. 1300 East, SLC, 385-270-5606. osteriaamore.com

An offshoot of the ever-growing Sicilia Mia group, the food here is not highly original —expect carpaccio, fried octopus, all kinds of pasta and pizza in the nicely redesigned space.

PER NOI TRATTORIA CAFÉ TRIO 680 S. 900 East, SLC, 801-533-8746. triodiningslc.com

Pizzas from the wood-fired brick oven are wonderful. One of the city’s premier and perennial lunch spots. Be sure to check out their weekly specials.

CAFFÉ MOLISE AND BTG WINE BAR 404 S. West Temple, SLC, 801-364-8833. caffemolise.com

The old Eagle building is a gorgeous setting for this city fave, with outdoor dining space and much more. Sibling wine bar BTG is under the same roof. Call for hours.

3005 S. Highland Dr., SLC, 801-486-3333. pernoitrattoria.com

A little chef-owned, red sauce Italian spot catering to its neighborhood. Expect casual, your-hands-on service, hope they have enough glasses to accommodate the wine you bring, and order the spinach ravioli.

1063 E. 2100 South, SLC, 801-484-1804. saltlakepizzaandpasta.com

SETTEBELLO PIZZERIA 260 S. 200 West, SLC, 801-322-3556. settebello.net

Every Neapolitan-style pie here is hand-shaped by a pizza artisan and baked in a wood-fired oven. And they make great gelato right next door.

SICILIA MIA 4536 S. Highland Dr., Holladay, 801-274-0223; 895 W. East Promontory, Farmington, 385-988-3727. siciliamiautah.com

A family-run restaurant with a huge number of fans who love the food’s hearty and approachable style, friendly service and touches of show biz—famous for its pasta carbonara, prepared in a wheel of Parmesan. The third in a trio of family-owned restaurants. They all recall Italian food of yesteryear.

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ON THE TABLE SIRAGUSA’S TASTE OF ITALY 4115 Redwood Rd., Taylorsville, 801-268-1520.

the variety is impressive. A sake menu is taking shape and Kaze is open until midnight.

and vegans, plus offers some kinkier stuff like a Japanese Cubano sandwich and various pig parts.

KOBE JAPANESE RESTAURANT

Mediterranean & Middle Eastern

siragusas.com

Another strip mall mom-and-pop find, the two dishes to look out for are sweet potato gnocchi and osso buco made with pork.

3947 S. Wasatch Blvd., SLC, 801-277-2928. kobeslc.com

This is Mike’s place—Mike Fukumitsu, once at Kyoto, is the personality behind the sushi bar and the driving spirit in the restaurant. Perfectly fresh fish keeps a horde of regulars returning.

STANZA 454 E. 300 South, SLC, 801-746-4441. stanzaslc.com

Chef Jonathon LeBlanc, brings a happy flair to this Italianesque restaurant. And Amber Billingsley is making the desserts. Va tutto bene!

KYOTO

STONEGROUND ITALIAN KITCHEN

The service is friendly, the sushi is fresh, the tempura is amazingly light, and the prices are reasonable. Servings are occidentally large, and service is impeccable.

249 E. 400 South, SLC, 801-364-1368.

TUSCANY

420 E. 3300 South, SLC, 801-493-0100. medslc.com

Get the mezzes platter for some of the best falafel in town. Entrees range from pita sandwiches to gargantuan dinner platters of braised shortribs, roast chicken and pasta.

1080 E. 1300 South, SLC, 801-487-3525. kyotoslc.com

stonegrounditalian.com

The longtime pizza joint has blossomed into a fullscale Italian restaurant with chef Justin Shifflet in the kitchen making authentic sauces and fresh pasta. An appealing upstairs deck and a full craft bar complete the successful transformation. Oh yeah, they still serve pizza.

CAFÉ MED

NOHM 165 W. 900 South, SLC, 801-917-3812. nohmslc.com

A genius Japanese and Korean restaurant specializing in robata and sushi. Chef-owner David Chon is more daring with his menu than most—this is a place for exploring. If you see something you’ve never tasted before, taste it here. Servers are happy to help.

FENICE MEDITERRANEAN BISTRO 126 Regent St., SLC, 801-359-4500. fenicebistroslc.com

The owners of Silver Star Café are behind this Mediterranean bistro with a smaller, intentional menu featuring just the favorites like fire-sherried grapes.

LAYLA 4751 S. Holladay Blvd., Holladay, 801-272-9111. laylagrill.com

Layla relies on family recipes. The resulting standards, like hummus and kebabs, are great, but explore some of the more unusual dishes, too.

2832 E. 6200 South, 801-277-9919. tuscanyslc.com

This restaurant’s faux-Tuscan kitsch is mellowing into retro charm, though the glass chandelier is a bit nervewracking. The double-cut pork chop is classic, and so is the chocolate cake.

VALTER’S OSTERIA 173 W. Broadway, SLC, 801-521-4563. valtersosteria.com

Valter Nassi’s restaurant overflows with his effervescent personality. The dining room is set up so Valter can be everywhere at once. Old favorites include a number of tableside dishes.

VENETO RISTORANTE 370 E. 900 South, SLC, 801-359-0708. venetoslc.com

This small place, owned by Marco and Amy Stevanoni, strives to focus on one of the many regional cuisines we lump under the word “Italian.” Hence the name; and forget what you think you know about Italian food except the word “delizioso.”

KAZE

18 W. Market St., SLC, 801-519-9595. takashisushi.com

Takashi Gibo earned his acclaim by buying the freshest fish and serving it in politely eye-popping style. Check the chalkboard for specials like Thai mackerel, fatty tuna or spot prawns, and expect some of the best sushi in the city.

TOSH’S RAMEN 1465 S. State St., SLC, 801-466-7000. 1963 E., Murray Holladay Rd., SLC. toshsramen.com

Chef Tosh Sekikawa is our own ramen ranger. His long-simmered noodle-laden broths have a deservedly devoted following—meaning, go early. Now with a second location.

TSUNAMI 1059 E. 900 South, SLC, 385-900-0288; 7628 S. Union Park Ave., Midvale, 801-676-6466; 10722 River Front Pkwy., South Jordan, 801748-1178; 1616 W. Traverse Pkwy., Lehi, 801-770-0088. tsunamiutah.com

YOKO RAMEN

65. E. Broadway, SLC, 801-800-6768. kazesushiut.com

Small and stylish, Kaze has plenty to offer besides absolutely fresh fish and inventive combinations. Food is beautifully presented and especially for a small place

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TAKASHI

Besides sushi, the menu offers crispy-light tempura and numerous house cocktails and sake.

Japanese

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473 E. 400 South, SLC, 801-876-5267. yokoslc.com

More ramen! Utahns can’t seem to slurp enough of the big Japanese soup—Yoko serves it up for carnivores

LAZIZ KITCHEN 912 S. Jefferson St., SLC, 801-441-1228. lazizkitchen.com

There are so many reasons to love Laziz Kitchen. Some are obvious—their top-notch Lebanese-style hummus, muhammara and toum.

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MAZZA 1515 S. 1500 East, SLC, 801-484-9259. mazzacafe.com

Excellent. With the bright flavor that is the hallmark of Middle Eastern food and a great range of dishes, Mazza has been a go-to for fine Lebanese food in SLC before there was much fine food at all.

MANOLI’S 402 E. 900 South, #2, SLC, 801-532-3760. manolison9th.com

Manoli and Katrina Katsanevas have created a fresh modern approach to Greek food. Stylish small plates full of Greek flavors include Butternut-squash-filled tyropita, smoked feta in piquillo peppers and a stellar roast chicken.

PADELI’S 30 E. Broadway, SLC, 801-322-1111. padelisstreetgreek.com

One of Salt Lake’s original Greek restaurants, Greek Souvlaki, has opened a contemporary version of itself. Padeli’s also serves the classic street fare, but these ex-

cellent souvlaki come in a streamlined space modeled after Chipotle, Zao and other fast-but-not-fast-food stops. The perfect downtown lunch.

SPITZ DONER KEBAB 35 E. Broadway, SLC, 801-364-0286. spitz-restaurant.com

This California transplant specializes in what Utahns mostly know by their Greek name “gyros.” But that’s not the only attraction. Besides the food, Spitz has an energetic hipster vibe and a liquor license that make it an after-dark destination.

Mexican BARRIO 282 E. 900 South, SLC, 801-613-2251. barrioslc.com

A slick new taco bar with a slightly punk Mexican theme, Barrio offers the usual selection of tacos—everyone’s favorite food, outdoor seating on nice days, margaritas, beer and a selection of serve yourself salsas.

BLUE IGUANA 165 S. West Temple, SLC, 801-533-8900. blueiguanarestaurant.net

This colorful downtown restaurant has a charming downstairs location and patio, and has been a Salt Lake staple for decades. Enchiladas, tacos, and “jengo” nachos—piled high on a platter—are all good, as are the margaritas. A nifty addition: phone chargers on every table.

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RED IGUANA 736 W. North Temple, SLC, 801-322-1489; 866 W.

SLC’s fave fish restaurants: Fish is flown in daily and the breakfast is an institution.

South Temple, SLC, 801-214-6050. rediguana.com

All locations are a blessing in this City of Salt, which still has mysteriously few good Mexican restaurants. Mole is what you want.

THE OYSTER BAR

RIO GRANDE CAFÉ

This is one of the best selection of fresh oysters in town: Belon, Olympia, Malpeque and Snow Creek, plus Bluepoints. Crab and shrimp are conscientiously procured.

258 S. 1300 East, SLC, 801-364-3302. riograndecafeslc.com

As bustling now as it was when it was still a train station, this is a pre-Jazz favorite and great for kids, too. Dishes overflow the plate and fill the belly.

TAQUERIA 27 149 E. 200 South, SLC, 385-259-0940; 4670 S. Holladay Village Plaza, Holladay, 801-676-9706; 6154 S. Fashion Blvd. #2, Murray, 801-266-2487; 1688 W. Traverse Pkwy., Lehi, 801-331-8033. taqueria27.com

Salt Lake needs more Mexican food, and Todd Gardiner is here to provide it. Artisan tacos (try the duck confit), inventive guacamole and lots of tequila.

54 W. Market St., SLC, 801-531-6044; 2985 E. Cottonwood Parkway (6590 South), SLC, 801-942-8870. marketstreetgrill.com

Southeast Asian CHABAAR BEYOND THAI 87 W. 7200 South, Midvale, 801-566-5100. chabaarbeyondthai.com

One of Annie Sooksri’s parade of restaurants, this one features what the name implies: a solid menu of Thai favorites plus some inventions based on Thai flavors.

CHANON THAI CAFÉ 278 E. 900 South, SLC, 801-532-1177. chanonthaislc.com

Seafood CURRENT FISH & OYSTER HOUSE 279 E. 300 South, SLC, 801-326-3474. currentfishandoyster.com

An all-star team made this cool downtown restaurant an instant hit. Excellent and inventive seafood dishes plenty of non-fishy options.

A meal here is like a casual dinner at your best Thai friend’s place. Try curried fish cakes and red-curry prawns with coconut milk and pineapple.

FAV BISTRO 1984 E. Murray Holladay Rd., Holladay, 801-676-9300. favbistro.com

Cross-cultural food with a menu of fusion dishes based on Thai flavors.

CHILE TEPIN

HARBOR SEAFOOD & STEAK CO.

307 W. 200 South, SLC, 801-883-9255. chile-tepin.com

2302 E. Parleys Way, SLC, 801-466-9827. harborslc.com

Popular for its generous servings of Mexican food, this place usually has a line on Friday nights. Heavy on the protein—the molcajete holds beef, pork and chicken—but cheese enchiladas and margaritas and other staples are good, too.

A much-needed breath of sea air refreshes this restaurant, which updates their menu frequently according to the availability of wild fish. A snappy interior, a creative cocktail menu and a vine-covered patio make for a hospitable atmosphere.

CHUNGA’S

KIMI’S CHOP & OYSTER HOUSE

MI LA-CAI NOODLE HOUSE

180 S. 900 West, SLC, 801-953-1840; 1895 S. Redwood Rd., SLC, 801-973-6904. chungasmexican.com

2155 S. Highland Dr., SLC, 801-946-2079. kimishouse.com

961 S. State St., SLC, 801-322-3590. lacainoodlehouse.com

Kimi Eklund and Chef Matt Anderson are bringing a touch of glam to Sugar House with their high-style, multi-purpose restaurant: It’s an oyster bar, it’s a steakhouse, it’s a lounge. However you use it, Kimi’s makes for a fun change from the surrounding pizza and beerscapes, with dramatic lighting, purple velvet and live music.

Mi La-cai’s noodles rise above the rest, and their pho is fantastic—each bowl a work of art. The beautiful setting is a pleasure. It’s even a pleasure to get the bill.

These tacos al pastor are the real deal. Carved from a big pineapple-marinated hunk, the meat is folded in delicate masa tortillas with chopped pineapple, onion and cilantro.

LONE STAR TAQUERIA 2265 E. Fort Union Blvd., SLC, 801-944-2300. lstaq.com

MARKET STREET GRILL

Lone Star serves a burrito that’s a meal in itself, whether you choose basic bean and cheese or a special.

48 W. Market St., SLC, 801-322-4668; 2985 E. Cottonwood Pkwy., SLC, 801-942-8860; 10702 River Front Pkwy., South Jordan, 801302-2262. marketstreetgrill.com

INDOCHINE 230 S. 1300 East, 801-582-0896. indochinesaltlake.com

Vietnamese cuisine is under-represented in Salt Lake’s Thai-ed up dining scene, so a restaurant that offers more than noodles is welcome. Try broken rice dishes, clay pots and pho.

MY THAI 1425 S. 300 West, SLC, 801-505-4999. mythaiasiancuisine.com

My Thai is an unpretentious mom-and-pop operation—she’s mainly in the kitchen, and he mainly waits tables, but in a lull, she darts out from her stove to ask diners if they like the food. Yes, we do.

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ON THE TABLE OH MAI

SOMI VIETNAMESE BISTRO

RUTH’S CHRIS STEAKHOUSE

850 S. State St.,SLC, 801-575-8888; 3425 State St., SLC, 801-467-

1215 E. Wilmington Ave., SLC, 385-322-1158.

275 S. West Temple, SLC, 801-363-2000.

6882, Other Utah locations. ohmaisandwichkitchen.com

somislc.com

ruthschris.com

Fast, friendly and hugely flavorful—that sums up this little banh mi shop that’s taken SLC by storm. Pho is also good and so are full plates, but the banh mi are heaven.

But there’s also Chinese food and a cocktail menu at this stylish Sugarhouse restaurant. Crispy branzino, pork belly sliders on bai and braised oxtail are some of the highlights to the menu, which also includes the standard spring rolls and pho.

This former bank building has inner beauty. Stick with classics like crab cocktail, order the wedge, and ask for your butter-sizzled steak no more than medium, please. Service is excellent. Eat dessert, then linger in the cool bar.

1766 S. Main St., SLC, 385-240-0309. photayho.com

THAI GARDEN

SPENCER’S

One of the best Pho broths around is served out of an unassuming house on the southside of Salt Lake City. Pho Tay Ho is the real deal. The family-owned-andoperated noodle house keeps their menu small but full of flavor.

868 E. 900 South, SLC, 801-355-8899.

255 S. West Temple, SLC, 801-238-4748.

thaigardenbistroslc.com

spencersslc.com

Paprika-infused pad thai, deep-fried duck and fragrant gang gra ree are all excellent choices—but there are 50-plus items on the menu. Be tempted by batterfried bananas with coconut ice cream.

The quality of the meat and the accuracy of the cooking are what make it great. Beef is aged on the bone, and many cuts are served on the bone—a luxurious change from the usual cuts.

264 S. Main St., SLC, 801-359-4544. pleikuslc.com

KRUA THAI

This stylish downtown spot serves a selection of Vietnamese dishes made from family recipes and served tapas-style. Note the pho, which is brewed for 36 hours and served in a full-bowl meal or a preprandial cup.

212 E. 500 South, SLC, 801-328-4401.

Vegetarian & Vegan

PHO TAY HO

PLEIKU

SAPA SUSHI BAR & ASIAN GRILL 722 S. State St., SLC, 801-363-7272. sapabarandgrill.com

Charming Vietnamese stilt houses surround the courtyard. Sapa’s menu ranges from Thai curries to fusion and hot pots, but the sushi is the best bet.

SAWADEE THAI 754 E. South Temple, SLC, 801-328-8424. sawadee1.com

The menu goes far outside the usual pad thai and curry. Thai food’s appeal lies in the subtleties of difference achieved with a limited list of ingredients.

ZAO ASIAN CAFE 400 S. 639 East, SLC, 801-595-1234; 2227 S. Highland Dr., SLC, 801-467-4113; Other Utah locations. zaoasiancafe.com

It’s hard to categorize this pan-Asian semi-fast food concept. It draws from Thai, Vietnamese, Chinese and Japanese traditions, all combined with the American need for speed. Just file it under fast, fresh, flavorful food.

Steak 110 W. Broadway, SLC, 801-890-6616. christophersut.com

575 S. 700 East, SLC, 801-364-1144. skeweredthai.com

A serene setting for some of the best Thai in town— perfectly balanced curries, pristine spring rolls, intoxicating drunk noodles and a well-curated wine list.

TEA ROSE DINER 65 E. 5th Ave., Murray, 801-685-6111. trosediner.com

Annie Sooksri has a mini-empire of Thai and Asian restaurants across the valley—Tea Rose has been a favorite since 2007 and offers a menu of Thai staples and American breakfast dishes.

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Curries and noodle dishes hit a precise procession on the palate—sweet, then sour, savory and hot—plus there are dishes you’ve never tried before and should: bacon and collard greens, red curry with duck, salmon with chili and coconut sauce.

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SKEWERED THAI

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The menu is straightforward, chilled shellfish and rare steaks, with a few seafood and poultry entrees thrown in for the non-beefeaters.

BOLTCUTTER 57 E. Gallivan Ave., SLC. boltcutterslc.com So hip there’s no listed phone number.

Vegan—the boltcutters refer to setting free the animals. Mexican flavors spice up the menu of tacos filled with seitan or mushrooms and there’s a list of agave spirit drinks. The same folks own the vegan ice cream place next door, Monkeywrench.

RAWTOPIA 3961 S. Wasatch Blvd., SLC, 801-486-0332. rawtopia.com

Owner Omar Abou-Ismail’s Rawtopia is a destination for those seeking clean, healthy food in Salt Lake—whether you’re a vegan, vegetarian or omnivore. Desserts are amazingly indulgent—like chocolate caramel pie and berry cheesecake.

VERTICAL DINER 234 W. 900 South, SLC, 801- 484-8378. verticaldiner.com

Vertical Diner boasts an animal-free menu of burgers, sandwiches and breakfasts. Plus organic wines and coffees.

FLEMING’S PRIME STEAKHOUSE

ZEST KITCHEN & BAR

20 S. 400 West #2020, The Gateway, SLC, 801-355-3704.

zestslc.com

flemingssteakhouse.com

Zest has sophisticated vegan cooking plus a cheerful attitude and ambience fueled by creative cocktails. Pulling flavors from many culinary traditions, the menu offers Cuban tacos, Thai curry with forbidden rice, stuffed poblano peppers as well as bar noshes and an amazing chocolate-beet torte—all vegan. The menu changes frequently. This is a 21+ establishment.

This local branch of a national chain has a famously impressive wine list. With more than 100 available by the glass, it has selections that pair well with anything you order.

275 S. 200 West, SLC, 801-433-0589.

PARK CITY & THE WASATCH BACK

led shallots, foie gras with cherry-prune compote and wiener schnitzel with caraway-spiked carrot strings.

APEX 9100 Marsac Ave., Park City, 435-604-1300. montagehotels.com/deervalley

Apex at Montage exudes luxury in an understated and comfortable way. No need to tux up for pampered service; the classy lack of pretension extends to the menu—no unpronounceables, nothing scary or even too daring—just top-of-the-line everything. Quality speaks for itself.

350 MAIN 350 Main St., Park City, 435-649-3140. 350main.com

deervalley.com

(Open seasonally) Try the tasting menu for an overview of the kitchen’s talent. It’s white tablecloth, but nothing is formal.

theeatingestablishment.net

890 Main St., Park City, 435-658-3975.

Claiming to be the oldest, this restaurant is one of Park City’s most versatile. On weekend mornings, locals line up for breakfasts.

mustangparkcity.com

A duck chile relleno arrives in a maelstrom of queso and ranchero sauce. Braised lamb shank and lobster with cheese enchiladas share the menu with seasonal entrees.

RIME SEAFOOD & STEAK

THE FARM RESTAURANT

ROYAL STREET CAFÉ

4000 Canyons Resort Dr., 435-615-8080. parkcitymountain.com

7600 Royal St., Silver Lake Village, Deer Valley Resort, Park City, 435645-6724. deervalley.com

Food is at the forefront of the newly named Park City Mountain Resort, and the farm is the flagship featuring sustainably raised and produced food. Resort Village, Sundial Building, North of the Cabriolet.

(Open seasonally) Don’t miss the lobster chowder, but note the novelties, too. In a new take on the classic lettuce wedge salad, Royal Street’s version adds baby beets, glazed walnuts and pear tomatoes.

firewoodonmain.com

Chef John Murcko’s place on Main Street is all about cooking with fire—his massive Inferno kitchen grill by Grillworks runs on oak, cherry and applewood, depending on what’s cooking. But each dish is layered and nuanced, with global influences. Definitely a star on Main Street.

GLITRETIND 7700 Stein Way, Deer Valley, Park City, 435-645-6455. steinlodge.com

The service is polished, and the menu is as fun or as refined or as inventive as Chef Zane Holmquist’s mood. The appeal resonates with the jet set and local diners. The wine list is exceptional. But so is the burger.

GOLDENER HIRSCH 7570 Royal St., Park City, 435-655-2563. aubergeresorts.com/goldenerhirsch

A jazzed up Alpine theme—elk carpaccio with pick-

EATING ESTABLISHMENT 317 Main St., Park City, 435-649-8284.

2300 Deer Valley Dr. East, Park City, St. Regis, Deer Valley, 435-6156420. srdvdining.com.

306 Main St., Park City, 435-252-9900.

In the Lodges at Deer Valley, the focal point here is a wood oven which turns out everything from pizza to fish and chops, all of the superior quality one expects from Deer Valley. Open seasonally.

MUSTANG

Now run by Cortney Johanson who has worked at the restaurant for 20 years, this mainstay cafe on Main Street is seeing another high point. With Chef Matthew Safranek in the kitchen, the menu is a balanced mix of old favorites and soon-to-be favorites like Five Spice Venison Loin in Pho. Amazing.

FIREWOOD

2900 Deer Valley Dr. East, Park City, 435-615-2410. deervalley.com

MARIPOSA AT DEER VALLEY 7600 Royal St., Park City, 435-645-6632.

American Fine Dining

THE BRASS TAG

Acclaimed Chef Matthew Harris heads the kitchen at this simply brilliant restaurant at the St. Regis—meticulously sourced meat and seafood from his trusted vendors, perfectly cooked.

VIKING YURT 1345 Lowell Ave., Park City, Park City Mountain Resort, 435-615-9878. thevikingyurt.com

Arrive by sleigh and settle in for a luxurious fivecourse meal, featuring a healthy introduction to the nordic beverage aquavit. Reservations and punctuality a must.

American Casual BLIND DOG GRILL 1251 Kearns Blvd., Park City, 435-655-0800. blinddogpc.com

The kitchen offers imaginative selections even though the dark wood and cozy ambience look like an old gentlemen’s club. Don’t miss the Dreamloaf, served with Yukon gold mashed potatoes.

THE BLUE BOAR INN 1235 Warm Springs Rd., Midway, 435-654-1400. theblueboarinn.com

FLETCHER’S ON MAIN STREET 562 Main St., Park City, 435-649-1111. fletcherspc.com

Fletcher’s has a casual approach designed to suit any appetite, almost any time. Talented Chef Scott Boborek’s carefully sourced dishes range from burgers to Beef Wellington—with lobster mac and Utah trout.

HANDLE 136 Heber Ave., Park City, 435-602-1155. handleparkcity.com

Chef-owner Briar Handly offers a menu, mostly of small plates, with the emphasis on excellent sourcing—trout sausage and Beltex Meats prosciutto, for example. There are also full-meal plates, including the chef’s famous fried chicken.

HEARTH AND HILL 1153 Center Dr., (Newpark), Park City, 435-200-8840. hearth-hill.com

This all-purposse cafe serves lunch, dinner and weekend brunch, focusing on bright, approachable American dishes with a kick.

HIGH WEST DISTILLERY 703 Park Ave., Park City, 435-649-8300. highwest.com

Order a flight of whiskey and taste the difference aging makes, but be sure to order plenty of food to see how magically the whiskey matches the fare. The chef takes the amber current theme throughout the food.

SAMMY’S BISTRO 1890 Bonanza Dr., Park City, 435-214-7570. sammysbistro.com

Down-to-earth food in a comfortable setting. Sounds simple, but if so, why aren’t there more Sammy’s in our world? Try the bacon-grilled shrimp or a chicken bowl with your brew.

The restaurant is reminiscent of the Alps, but serves fine American cuisine. Don’t miss the awardwinning brunch.

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ON THE TABLE SILVER STAR CAFE 1825 Three Kings Dr., Park City, 435-655-3456. thesilverstarcafe.com

Comfort food with an upscale sensibility and original touches, like shrimp and grits with chipotle or Niman Ranch pork cutlets with spaetzle. The location is spectacular.

Housed in the luxurious Montage, this casual restaurant presents the most deluxe versions of America’s favorite foods. The burgers are stupendous, there’s a great list of bourbons to back them, and the milkshakes are majorly good.

Named after Park City’s sister city in the Savoie region of France, which happens to be the home turf of Chef Clement Gelas and is he having some fun with his mother cuisine. Be guided by him or your server and try some French food like you haven’t had before.

RED ROCK JUNCTION

Italian & Pizza

1640 W. Redstone Center Dr., Ste. 105, Park City, 435-575-0295.

SIMON’S GRILL AT THE HOMESTEAD 700 N. Homestead Dr., Midway, 800-327-7220. homesteadresort.com

The décor is formal, the fare is hearty but refined— salmon in a morel cream, or pearl onion fritters dusted with coarse salt.

redrockbrewing.com

The house-brewed beers—honey wheat, amber ale or oatmeal stout, to name a few—complement a menu of burgers, brick-oven pizzas and rotisserie chicken.

SQUATTERS ROADHOUSE 1900 Park Ave., Park City, 435-649-9868.

FUEGO 2001 Sidewinder Dr., Park City, 435- 645-8646. fuegopizzeria.com

Off the beaten Main Street track, this pizzeria is a family-friendly solution to a ski-hungry evening. Pastas, paninis and wood-fired pizzas are edgy, but they’re good.

squatters.com

SPIN CAFÉ 220 N. Main St., Heber City, 435-654-0251. spincafe.net

Housemade gelato is the big star at this family-owned café, but the food is worth your time. Try the pulled pork, the salmon BLT or the sirloin.

Everyone loves the bourbon burger, and Utah Brewers Co-op brews are available by the bottle and on the state-of-the-art tap system. Open for breakfast daily.

WASATCH BREWERY 250 Main St., Park City, 435-649-0900.

GHIDOTTI’S 6030 N. Market St., Park City, 435-658-0669. ghidottis.com

Ghidotti’s evokes Little Italy more than Italy, and the food follows suit—think spaghetti and meatballs, lasagna and rigatoni Bolognese. Try the chicken soup.

wasatchbeers.com

ZERMATT RESORT 784 W. Resort Dr., Midway, 435-657-0180. zermattresort.com

The charming, Swiss-themed resort is big on buffets—seafood, Italian and brunch.

This was the first brewpub in Utah, and it serves handcrafted beer and family-friendly fare without a hefty price tag. Everyone loves Polygamy Porter, and the weekend brunch is great, too.

Breakfast

Bakeries & Cafés PARK CITY COFFEE ROASTERS 1764 Uinta Way, Park City, 435-647-9097. pcroaster.com

GRAPPA 151 Main St., Park City, 435-645-0636. grapparestaurant.com

Dishes like osso buco and grape salad with gorgonzola, roasted walnuts and Champagne vinaigrette are sensational, and the wine list features hard-to-find Italian wines as well as flights, including sparkling.

DEER VALLEY GROCERY & CAFE 1375 Deer Valley Dr., Park City, 435-615-2400. deervalley.com

The town’s fave house-roasted coffee and housemade pastries make this one of the best energy stops in town.

The small lakeside spot serves sandwiches and lunch specials, plus it’s a great place to stock up on deer Valley classics to take home—think classic Deer Valley turkey chili.

WASATCH BAGEL CAFÉ

WOODLAND BISCUIT COMPANY

Japanese/Pan-Asian SUSHI BLUE 1571 W. Redstone Center Dr. Ste. 140, Park City, 435-575-4272. sushiblueparkcity.com

Find the yin and yang of Asian-American flavors in Bill White’s sushi, excellent Korean tacos, crab sliders and other Amer-Asian food fusions, including the best hot dog in the state, topped with bacon and housemade kimchi.

1300 Snow Creek Dr., Park City, 435-645-7778. wasatchbagelandgrill.com

2734 E. State Hwy. 35, Woodland, 435- 783-4202. woodlandbiscuitcompany.com

Not just bagels, but bagels as buns, enfolding a sustaining layering of sandwich fillings like egg and bacon.

Breakfast is the real deal here so pile on the bacon and eggs but if you sleep late, not to worry—burgers, sandwiches and tacos are good too.

WAHSO

WINDY RIDGE BAKERY & CAFÉ

Continental & European

Restaurateur Bill White is known for his eye-popping eateries. Wahso is his crown jewel, done up with lanterns and silks like a 1930s noir set. Don’t miss the jasmine tea-smoked duck.

1750 Iron Horse Dr., Park City, 435-647-2906. windyridgebakery.com

One of Park City’s most popular noshing spots—especially on Taco Tuesdays. The bakery behind turns out desserts and pastries for Bill White’s restaurants as well as take-home entrees.

Bar Grub & Brewpubs

This charming café is the spot for a leisurely meal. Chicken and bacon tossed with mixed greens and grilled veggies on focaccia are café-goers’ favorites.

201 Heber Ave., Park City, 435-572-4398. courchevelbistro.com

9100 Marsac Ave., Park City, 435-604-1402. montagehotels.com/deervalley

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424 Main St., Park City, 435-645-9555. cafeterigo.com

COURCHEVEL BISTRO

BURGERS & BOURBON

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577 Main St., Park City, 435-615-0300. wahso.com

YUKI YAMA SUSHI 586 Main St., Park City, 435-649-6293. yukiyamasushi.com

Located in the heart of Old Town Park City, Yuki Yama offers both traditional japanese dishes and more modern plates. It’s all guided by the steady hands of Executive Chef Kirk Terashima.

Mediterranean

Seafood

PRIME STEAK HOUSE

REEF’S

FRESHIE’S LOBSTER CO.

primeparkcity.com

7720 Royal St. East, Park City, 435-658-0323.

1915 Prospector Ave., Park City, 435-631-9861.

reefsrestaurant.com

freshieslobsterco.com

Lamb chops are tender, falafel is crunchy, and the prices fall between fast food and fine dining. It’s a den of home cooking, if your home is east of the Mediterranean. Open seasonally.

After years as everyone’s favorite summer food stop at Park Silly Market, Freshie’s has settled into a permanent location selling their shore-to-door lobster rolls all year round.

Prime’s recipe for success is simple: Buy quality ingredients and insist on impeccable service. Enjoy the piano bar, and save room for molten chocolate cake.

Mexican & Southwestern

RIME SEAFOOD & RAW BAR

BAJA CANTINA 1355 Lowell Ave., Park City, 435-649-2252. bajaparkcity.com

The T.J. Taxi is a flour tortilla stuffed with chicken, sour cream, tomatoes, onions, cheddar-jack cheese and guacamole.

BILLY BLANCO’S 8208 Gorgoza Pines Rd., Park City, 435-575-0846. billyblancos.com

Motor City Mexican. The subtitle is “burger and taco garage,” but garage is the notable word. This is a theme restaurant with lots of cars and motorcycles on display, oil cans to hold the f latware, and a 50-seat bar made out of toolboxes. If you’ve ever dreamed of eating in a garage, you’ll be thrilled.

CHIMAYO 368 Main St., Park City, 435-649-6222. chimayorestaurant.com

Bill White’s prettiest place, this restaurant is reminiscent of Santa Fe, but the food is pure Park City. Margaritas are good, and the avocado-shrimp appetizer combines guacamole and ceviche flavors in a genius dish.

1890 Bonanza Dr., Park City, 435-645-9114. elchubascoparkcity.com

Regulars storm this restaurant for south-of-the-border eats. Burritos fly through the kitchen like chiles too hot to handle—proving consistency matters.

TARAHUMARA 1300 Snow Creek Dr., Ste. P, Park City, 435-645-6005. tarahumararestaurant.com

Some of the best Mexican food in the state can be found in this Park City cafe. Don’t be fooled by the bland exterior; inside you’ll find a full-fledged cantina and an adjoining family restaurant with a soulful salsa bar.

NORTH SALT LAKE & BEYOND

9850 Summit View Dr., Park City. rimerawbar.com

Such a hit on the slopes that Chef Matt Harris took the concept inside and Rime is an anchor restaurant inside the St. Regis, Open Thurs-Sun.

Southeast Asian SHABU

American Fine Dining THE HUNTINGTON ROOM AT EARL’S LODGE 3925 E. Snowbasin Rd., Huntsville, 888-437-5488. snowbasin.com

442 Main St., Park City, 435-645-7253. shabuparkcity.com

Ski-day sustenance and fireside dinner for the après-ski set. In summer, dine at the top of the mountain.

Cool new digs, friendly service and fun food make Shabu one of PC’s most popular spots. Make reservations. A stylish bar with prize-winning mixologists adds to the freestyle feel.

American Casual

KUCHU SHABU HOUSE

195 Historic 25th St. Ste. 6 (2nd Floor), Ogden, 801-399-0088. hearth25.com

3270 N. Sundial Ct., Park City, 435-649-0088. kuchushabu.com

The second shabu-style eatery in PC is less grand than the first but offers max flavor from quality ingredients.

Steak BUTCHER’S CHOP HOUSE & BAR 751 Lower Main St., Park City, 435-647-0040.

EL CHUBASCO

804 Main St., Park City, 435-655-9739.

butcherschophouse.com

The draws are prime rib, New York strip and pork chops—and the ladies’ night specials in the popular bar downstairs.

GRUB STEAK 2093 Sidewinder Dr., Prospector Square, Park City, 435-649-8060. grubsteakparkcity.com

Live country music, fresh salmon, lamb and chicken, and a mammoth salad bar. Order bread pudding whether you think you want it or not. You will.

EDGE STEAKHOUSE 3000 Canyon Resort Dr., Park City, 435-655-2260. westgateresorts.com

This beautifully fills the beef bill at the huge resort, and the tasting menus take you through salad, steak and dessert for $45 to $60, depending on options.

HEARTH ON 25 The charming upstairs dining room is a great setting for some of the best and most imaginative food in Ogden. Handmade hearth bread, espresso-rubbed yak, killer stroganoff—too many options to mention here— this is really a destination restaurant.

NIÑO VIEJO 160 W. Promontory, Farmington, 801-451-1967. ninoviejoutah.com

Niño Viejo serves up Latin food coooked in the oldworld way. Meats are marinated for 18 hours and fill out a menu of tamales, flautas and tacos with elevated contents like lobster and Wagyu beef. The birria tacos with red chili dipping broth is the most popular item, and every table comes with complimentrary chips and salsa (spicy variety available on request).

PRAIRIE SCHOONER 445 Park Blvd., Ogden, 801-392-2712. prairieschoonerrestaurant.com

Tables are covered wagons around a diorama featuring coyotes, cougars and cowboys—corny, but fun. The menu is standard, but kids love it.

TABLE 25 195 25th St., Ste. 4, Ogden, 385-244-1825. table25ogden.com

A bright, contemporary space in Downtown Ogden has a patio right on Historic 25th Street. The elevated yet approachable menu includes Spanish mussels and frites, ahi tuna and a classic cheeseburger.

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ON THE TABLE UNION GRILL 315 24th St., Ogden, 801-621-2830. uniongrillogden.com

The cross-over cooking offers sandwiches, seafood and pastas with American, Greek, Italian or Mexican spices.

Italian & Pizza SLACKWATER PIZZA 209 24th St., Ogden, 801-399-0637. slackwaterpizzeria.com

The pies here are as good as any food in Ogden. Selection ranges from traditional to Thai (try it), and there’s a good selection of wine and beer.

WB’S EATERY 455 25th Street, Ogden, 385-244-1471. wbseatery.com

Part restaurant, part bar, part coffeehouse, WB’s Eatery is located inside The Monarch, a hip maker and market space for artists. A hybrid space as well, the eatery sells CBD oil, as well as serving up cocktails, bites and boards of meat and cheese.

ROVALI’S RISTORANTE 174 E. 25th St., Ogden, 801-394-1070. rovalis.com

This friendly family-owned place on Ogden’s main drag serves hearty Italian fare and housemade pastry, plus a creative bar menu and live music.

Bar Grub & Brewpubs

Japanese

THE BEEHIVE PUB & GRILL

RAMEN HAUS

255 S. Main St., Logan, 435-753-2600. thebeehivegrill.com

An indirect offshoot of Moab Brewery, the Grill focuses as much on house-brewed root beer as alcoholic suds, but the generally hefty food suits either.

Burgers, Sandwiches & Delis

2550 Washington Blvd., Ogden, 801-393-0000. ramenhausogden.com

Sergei Oveson’s experience with ramen master Tosh and Shani Oveson’s at Naked Fish shows all over their restaurant in Ogden. Simple but stylish sums the space and terrific is the only word for the ramen. Do not leave without ordering the honey toast even if you think you don’t want dessert.

CAFFE IBIS

TONA SUSHI

52 Federal Ave., Logan, 435-753-4777. caffeibis.com

210 25th St., Ogden, 801-622-8662.

Exchange news, enjoy sandwiches and salads and linger over a cuppa conscientiously grown coffee.

tonarestaurant.com

MADDOX RANCH HOUSE 1900 S. Highway 89, Perry, 435-723-8545. maddoxfinefood.com

Angus beef steaks, bison chicken-fried steak and burgers have made this an institution for more than 50 years. Eat in, drive up or take home.

The charming old space on Ogden’s main drag houses a meticulously top-notch sushi restaurant. Owner Tony Chen grows herbs and sprouts in the basement and the plates he presents show an artist’s touch. Ask about the secret menu.

Mexican SONORA GRILL 2310 Kiesel Ave., Ogden, 801-393-1999. thesonoragrill.com

Chinese MANDARIN 348 E. 900 North, Bountiful, 801-298-2406. mandarinutah.com

The rooms are filled with red and gold dragons. Chefs recruited from San Francisco crank out a huge menu. Desserts are noteworthy. Call ahead.

A big, beautiful Mexican restaurant, the kind you see in Texas or New Mexico, Sonora serves great chips and salsa, a famous margarita, several kinds of ceviche and all the dishes you love as well as vegan, vegetarian and gluten-free options.

Southeast Asian THAI CURRY KITCHEN 582 25th St., Ogden, 385-333-7100. thaicurrykitchen.com.

Chic and sleek counter service offering bright fromscratch curries and salads plus locally made kombucha.

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PROVO & CENTRAL UTAH American Fine Dining COMMUNAL 102 N. University Ave., Provo, 801-373-8000. communalrestaurant.com

Food is focused on the familiar with chef’s flair—like braised pork shoulder crusted in panko. Attention to detail makes this one of Utah’s best.

THE TREE ROOM 8841 Alpine Loop Scenic Byway, Sundance Resort, Sundance, 866-627-8313. sundanceresort.com

Sundance Resort’s flagship is known for its seasonal, straightforward menu and memorable decor, including Robert Redford’s kachina collection. Try the wild game—spice-rubbed quail and buffalo tenderloin.

American Casual CHOM BURGER 45 W. 300 North, Provo, 385-241-7499. chomburger.com

Colton Soelberg’s (Communal, etc.) low-key high-end burger place has an eye towards infusing high-quality ingredients into America’s favorite sandwich. Inexpensive, innovative and delicious burgers and shakes, as we have come to expect from Soelberg who has a knack for elevating comfort food.

THE FOUNDRY GRILL 8841 Alpine Loop Scenic Byway, Sundance Resort, Sundance, 866-932-2295. sundanceresort.com

The café in Sundance Resort serves comfort food with western style—sandwiches, spit-roasted chickens and steaks. Sunday brunch is a mammoth buffet.

STATION 22 22 W. Center St., Provo, 801-607-1803. station22cafe.com

Ever-hipper Provo is home to some cutting-edge food now that the cutting edge has a folksy, musical saw kind of style. Station 22 is a perfect example of the Utah roots trend—a charming, funky interior, a great soundtrack and a menu with a slight Southern twang. Try the fried chicken sandwich with red cabbage on ciabatta.

Indian

Bar Grub & Brewpubs

OSCAR’S CAFÉ

BOMBAY HOUSE

MOAB BREWERY

oscarscafe.com

463 N. University Ave., Provo, 801-373-6677; 7726 Campus View Dr.,

686 Main St., Moab, 435-259-6333.

West Jordan, 801-282-0777; 2731 E. Parley’s Way, SLC, 801-5810222. bombayhouse.com

themoabbrewery.com

Blueberry pancakes, fresh eggs, crisp potatoes and thick bacon. We love breakfast, though Oscar’s serves equally satisfying meals at other times of day.

Salt Lake’s biryani mainstay has several sister restaurants worthy to call family.

Italian PIZZERIA 712 320 S. State St., #185, Orem, 801-623-6712. pizzeria712.com

The pizza menu reaches heights of quality that fancier restaurants only fantasize about. Not only are the blister-crusted pizzas the epitome of their genre, but braised short ribs, local mushrooms and arugula on ciabatta are equally stellar.

Vegetarian GINGER’S GARDEN CAFE 188. S. Main St., Springville, 801-489-1863. gingersgardencafe.com

Tucked inside Dr. Christopher’s Herb Shop, Ginger’s serves truly garden-fresh, bright-flavored, mostly vegetarian dishes.

A beloved watering hole for river-runners, slick-rock bikers, red-rock hikers and everyone who needs a bite and a beer, which is nearly everyone in Moab. All beer is brewed on site.

American Dining HELL’S BACKBONE GRILL 20 N. Highway 12, Boulder, 435-335-7464. hellsbackbonegrill.com

Owners Blake Spalding and Jen Castle set the bar for local, organic food in Utah. Now the cafe has gained national fame. They garden, forage, raise chickens and bees, and offer breakfasts, dinners and even picnic lunches.

SUNGLOW FAMILY RESTAURANT

PEEKABOO CANYON WOOD FIRED KITCHEN 233 W. Center St., Kanab, 435- 689-1959.

ST. GEORGE & SOUTHWEST UTAH

peekabookitchen.com

American Fine Dining

RED ROCK GRILL AT ZION LODGE

KING’S LANDING

Zion National Park, 435-772-7700. zionlodge.com

1515 Zion Park Blvd., Ste. 50-A, Springdale, 435-772-7422. klbzion.com

In the Driftwood Inn, some of the finest food and the finest view in Utah. The kitchen is ambitious—seasonal, vegan, gluten-free are all covered. Mushroom tart involves mushrooms, caramelized onions, butternut squash and grapes with burrata and basil, but the flavors meld into harmony.

PAINTED PONY

MOAB & SOUTHEAST UTAH

948 Zion Park Blvd., Springdale, 435-772-3232.

2 W. St. George Blvd., Ste. 22, St. George, 435-634-1700. painted-pony.com

Complementing Best Friends Animal Sanctuary, this casual eatery serves vegetarian cuisine—artisanal pizza, local beer, craft cocktails and a rocking patio.

Try eating here on the terrace. Enjoy melting-pot American dishes like smoked trout salad with prickly pear vinaigrette. And you can’t beat the red rock ambience.

WHIPTAIL GRILL 445 Zion Park Blvd., Springdale, 435-772-0283. whiptailgrillzion.com

Tucked into an erstwhile gas station, the kitchen is little, but the flavors are big—a goat cheese-stuffed chile relleno crusted in Panko and the chocolate-chile creme brulee.

The kitchen blends culinary trends with standards like sage-smoked quail on mushroom risotto. Even “surf and turf” has a twist—tenderloin tataki with chiledusted scallops.

XETAVA GARDENS CAFÉ

SPOTTED DOG CAFÉ

Blue corn pancakes for breakfast and lunch are good bets. But to truly experience Xetava, dine under the stars in eco-conscious Kayenta.

428 Zion Park Blvd., Springdale, 435-772-0700. flanigans.com/dining

Relax, have some vino and enjoy your achiote-braised lamb shank with mint mashed potatoes on top of rosemary spaghetti squash.

VERMILLION 45 210 S. 100 East, Kanab, 435-644-3300. vermillion45.com

Who would expect a fine restaurant with a French chef in Kanab. But here it is, and it’s excellent.

815 Coyote Gulch Court, Ivins, 435-656-0165. xetava.com

Mexican THE BIT AND SPUR 1212 Zion Park Blvd., Springdale, 435-772-3498. bitandspur.com

The menu stars Southwestern cuisine—ribs, beef and chicken—as well as chili verde. A longtime Zion favorite, there’s almost always a wait here, but it’s almost always a pleasant one with a view and a brew in hand.

91 E. Main St., Bicknell, 435-425-3821.

This pit stop is famous for its pinto bean and pickle pies. Yes, we said pickle.

American Casual MOM’S CAFÉ 10 E. Main St., Salina, 435-529-3921. famousmomscafe.business.site

Mom’s has fed travelers on blue plate standards since 1928. This is the place to try a Utah “scone” with “honey butter.”

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BAR FLY L I B A T I O N S

B A R S

21 & OVER BARS Forget about navigating the state’s labyrinth of liquor laws—the more than 20 bars and pubs listed here prioritize putting a drink in your hand, although most of them serve good food, too. Restricted to 21 and over. (Be prepared to show your I.D., whatever your age. This is Utah, after all.) All bars listed in the Salt Lake Bar Fly have been vetted and chosen based on quality of beverage, food, atmosphere and service.

PHOTO ADAM FINKLE

This selective guide has no relationship to any advertising in the magazine. Review visits are anonymous, and all expenses are paid by Salt Lake magazine.

LET’S HAVE A KIKI Why Kiki is Salt Lake’s latest ‘It Girl’ BY AVREY EVANS

N A CITY WHERE DIMLY-LIT BARS featuring minimalist interiors and obscure cocktails dominate the nightlife scene, the unapologetic attitude of Why Kiki is a breath of fresh air. Having opened its baby pink doors in the spring of 2021, the funky beach bar has become a beloved space for anyone who doesn’t shy from a good time and a few racy menu items. As owner Randy Oveson says, Why Kiki is “a place for everyone.”

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Opening a new business during a global pandemic is an ambitious endeavor in any industry, and particularly challenging for service-based enterprises. But in a modern marketing marvel, one viral video was all it took to launch Why Kiki into success. A TikTok made by local food blogger MileHighFoodFairy showed flashes of a blacklight-lit stage, appealing cocktails and…phallically shaped food items—enough to raise eyebrows and gain the blessing of the algorithm gods. In under one hour, the 60-second clip had reached more than a quarter-million views and generated comments like “In Utah? Am I seeing this right?” Almost overnight, Why Kiki became a Salt Lake hotspot. The response was nearly overwhelming, but with the help of community members and strong-willed staff, Oveson says Why Kiki has come out on top. “Our motto has been surviving, striving, and thriving,” he explains. “We are finally out of the surviving stage and we are back to reflect on how to make the experience even better.” And Why Kiki is just that: an experience. Tropical decor and flattering lighting bathe the room in chill. The main beach bar offers more than

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30 cocktails meant to be slung quickly and served in fish bowls and tiki mugs. Food offerings feature classic bar fare with a twist, like their signature Chicks and Dicks brunch item, which combines crispy chicken tenders with penis-shaped waffle bites (Joseph Smith, what has this city become!?) When you feel like a change of scenery, head to the basement to check out the speakeasy with its silent disco, or lounge in the covered patio and various private rooms. “The idea is that people can barhop within the same space,” Oveson says. Why Kiki also hosts a number of events throughout the week that foster a sense of community and give the spotlight to performers of all kinds. On the weekdays, it’s Taco Techno Tuesday, Bitch Bingo Wednesday and a silent disco featuring Latin music and hip hop. Every second Friday of the

month the all-drag-king show takes the stage with regular guest appearances from Ben D. Dickson, Madazon CanCan and Eros Des Flammes, among others. Why Kiki’s Saturday Night Vibes focuses on a different theme each week; those who dress the part get in free before 10:30 p.m. Past themes have included toga, Mardi Gras and time warp. The evening includes other high-energy events like drag performances and lip sync karaoke—this one is for you off-key divas! Sundays are reserved for Why Kiki’s weekly drag brunch, featuring a rotating group of performers like Hoe Shi Minh, Sally Cone Slopes, Molly Mormon, Liam Manchesthair and Diana Lone. Check the bar’s socials for the weekly lineup, and always make sure to tip your performers. Putting aside Why Kiki’s flashy personality and escapist attitude, the bar offers something even more valuable to downtown nightlife: belonging. Its central location establishes the space as one of the only LGBTQ+ bars in the heart of the city, adjacent to the prominent Salt Palace Convention Center that draws international visitors and big-league public figures. Of course, Why Kiki is a space for all, but Oveson also understands the bar’s responsibility to its community. Cover charges go toward paying performers. Drag kings and queer artists have a dedicated platform and spacious dressing rooms that cater to entertainers who spend hours preparing their craft. Oveson puts it simply: “We want to make sure people feel valued and taken care of.” Visit Why Kiki (69 W. 100 South, SLC, 801641-6115) Tuesday through Sunday, and keep up with their happenings and events on Instagram @whykikibar.

PHOTOS ADAM FINKLE

BAR FLY

COPPER COMMON

The Euro-styled hotel has a chic lobby bar and a secret menu of drinks inspired by movies filmed in Utah, like Dumb and Dumber and Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid.

Copper Common is a real bar—that means you don’t actually have to order food if you don’t want to. But on the other hand, why wouldn’t you want to? This bar has a real chef.

THE AERIE

COSOT WINE + WORK

225 W. 200 South, SLC, 385-722-9600. achotels.marriott.com

9320 Cliff Lodge Dr. #88, Snowbird Resort, 801-933-2160. snowbird.com

Floor-to-ceiling windows mean drinkers can marvel at nature’s handiwork while feasting from the sushi bar. The menu is global with live music some nights.

ALIBI BAR & PLACE

369 S. Main St., SLC, 385-259-0616. alibislc.com

111 E. Broadway #190, SLC, 801-355-0543. coppercommon.com

1508 S. 1500 East, SLC. 801-441-2873. casotwinework.com

In a town with a dearth of neighborhood bars and bars that want to be neighborhood bars but for a lack of location in an actual neighborhood, Casot is the real deal. Located in the established 15th and 15th hood, this small wine bar is a welcome addition featuring a Spainish forward list from Pago’s Scott Evans.

Located along SLC’s bar line on Main Street, Alibi has a sleek, hip vibe and is generally filled with happy hipsters, especially when they have theme nights.

THE COTTON BOTTOM

BAR X

Remember when this was a ski bum’s town? The garlic burger and a beer is what you order.

155 E. 200 South, SLC, 801-355-2287. barxslc.com

This was the vanguard of Salt Lake’s new cocktail movement, serving classic drinks and creative inventions behind the best electric sign in the city.

BEER BAR

161 E. 200 South, SLC, 385-259-0905. beerbarslc.com

Ty Burrell, star of ABC’s small-screen hit Modern Family, co-owns Beer Bar, which is right next to Bar X. It’s noisy, there’s no table service, but there are 140+ brews to choose from, plus 13 kinds of wurst.

THE BAYOU

645 S. State St., SLC, 801-961-8400. utahbayou.com

This is Beervana, with 260 bottled beers and 32 on draft. The kitchen turns out artichoke pizza and deep-fried Cornish game hens.

BEERHIVE PUB

128 S. Main St., SLC, 801-364-4268. @beerhive_pub

More than 200 beers—domestic, imported and local—with a long ice rail to keep the brew cold, the way Americans like ’em, are the outstanding features of this cozy downtown pub.

BTG WINE BAR

404 S. West Temple, SLC, 801-359-2814. btgwinebar.com

BTG stands for “By the Glass” and though BTG serves craft cocktails, specialty beer and good food, the pièces de résistance are the more than 50 wines by the glass. Order a tasting portion or a full glass.

CAMPFIRE LOUNGE

837 E. 2100 South, 801-467-3325. campfirelounge.com

The laid-back feeling of sitting around a campfire is what the owners were aiming for, with or without flames. Campfire is a relaxed neighborhood joint with affordable drinks. And s’mores.

2820 E. 6200 South, SLC, 801-849-8847. thecottonbottom.com

DICK N’ DIXIE’S

479 E. 300 South, SLC, 801-994-6919. @dickndixies

The classic corner beer bar where cronies of all kinds gather regularly to watch sports, talk politics and generally gossip about the city and nothing in particular.

EAST LIBERTY TAP HOUSE 850 E. 900 South, SLC, 801-441-2845. eastlibertytaphouse.com

Half a dozen beers on draft and 20 or more by the bottle, and the rotation changes constantly. The menu does clever takes on bar food classics.

EIGHT SETTLERS DISTILLERY

7321 Canyon Centre Pkwy., Cottonwood Heights, 385-9004315. eightsettlersdistillery.com

The distillery is entrenched in and inspired by the history of the Cottonwood Heights area and so are the spirits. Take home a bottle from the store or stay and enjoy a taste of the past at the themed, on-site restaurant.

FLANKER

6 N. Rio Grande, The Gateway, SLC, 801-683-7070. flankerslc.com

A little bit sports bar, a little bit nightclub and a little bit entertainment venue, with a parlor and bowling alley, private karaoke rooms and a golf simulator.

GOOD GRAMMAR

69 E. Gallivan Ave., 385-415-5002. goodgrammar.bar

The crowds playing Jenga on the patio, the decor, full of pop celebs and heroes, and a soundtrack of eclectic old- and alt-rock, makes a space that bridges old and young imbibers.

GRACIE’S

326 S. West Temple, SLC, 801-819-7565. graciesslc.com

Play pool, throw darts, listen to live music, kill beer and time on the patio and upstairs deck. Plus, Gracie’s is a gastropub.

GREEN PIG

31 E. 400 South, SLC, 801-532-7441. thegreenpigpub.com

Green Pig is a pub of a different color. The owners use eco-friendly materials and sustainable kitchen practices. The menu star is the chili verde nachos with big pork chunks and cheese.

HIGH WEST SALOON

703 Park Ave., Park City, 435-649-8300. highwest.com

The bartenders at Utah’s award-winning distillery concoct different cocktail menus for every season focusing on High West’s spirits, although the bar stocks other alcohol.

ICE HAUS

7 E. 4800 South, Murray, 801-266-2127. icehausbar.com

Ice Haus has everything you need from a neighborhood bar and a purveyor of German cuisine: a wide selection of pub fare and plenty of seating in the beer-hall inspired location. The menu has a strong number of vegan options.

LAKE EFFECT

155 W. 200 South, SLC, 801-532-2068. lakeeffectslc.com

An eclectic bar and lounge with a fine wine list and full menu. Live music many nights; open until 1 a.m.

LAUREL BRASSERIE & BAR

555 S. Main St., SLC, 801-258-6708. laurelslc.com

Laurel Brasserie & Bar’s food focuses on classic European cuisine with an American approach. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, but the real star is the Happy Hour menu with items like Pumpkin Arancini and The Smokey Paloma cocktail.

MORTAR AND PESTLE 152 E. 200 South, SLC, 801-953-0156. curryupnow.com/mortarandpestlebar

GARAGE

A small cocktail-forward bar on Edison Street that draws a big crowd on weekend nights. Best to go early.

Everyone compares it to an Austin bar. Live music, good food and the rockingest patio in town. Try the Chihuahua, a chile-heated riff on a margarita.

OYSTER BAR

THE GIBSON GIRL LOUNGE

The nightlife side of Market Street seafood restaurant, the Oyster Bar has an is a place to begin or end an evening, with an award-winning martini and a dozen oysters—half price on Mondays.

1199 N. Beck St., SLC, 801-521-3904. garageonbeck.com

555 S. Main St., SLC, 801-258-6778. grandamerica.com

Grand America’s inimitable style is translated into a cushy but unstuffy bar, the antithesis of the current hipster style. You can actually wear a cocktail dress to this cocktail bar.

48 W. Market St., SLC, 801-531-6044. marketstreetgrill.com

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BAR FLY

HERE CAN YOU GET A GOOD

Still Good For What Ales You

Original Squatters founders come full circle after Monster acquisition leaves future in doubt BY CHRISTIE PORTER

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craft beer on tap in this town? Before the founding of Squatters Craft Beers more than 30 years ago, the answer to that question probably would have been a bewildered shrug and a free copy of The Book of Mormon. Now, you can’t throw a dart without hitting a new microbrewery or taproom full of tasty ale on tap. But business partners Peter Cole and Jeff Polychronis started Squatters way back when the idea of opening up a Utah brewery bucked any kind of conventional wisdom. They realized Utah had a definite dearth of craft brews after a year-long pub crawl across the Pacific Northwest, and they (along with Greg Schirf’s Wasatch Brewery in 1986) made some of the first steps to changing all of that. Indeed, a lot has changed in 32 years since the doors of Squatters first opened in downtown Salt Lake City on Sept. 5, 1989 with the slogan “Good for What Ales You.” The ales in

question were Emigration Pale Ale and City Creek Pale Ale, which were served on tap that very first day. The ales on tap nowadays have cuter names, like Chasing Tail, a crisp golden ale, and Full Suspension, a smooth pale ale, but they always did love labels that poked fun at Utah’s conservative culture. (Remember the Provo Girl Pilsner labels?) But the biggest changes happened behind the scenes, on the business side of things. In 2000, Squatters merged with Wasatch Brewery to form the Utah Brewers Collective, and in 2017 that collective became part of CANarchy, yet another, larger, collective, and Cole and Polychronis walked away. Five years later, they’re back. This January, Monster Beverage Corporation—yes, the energy drink people— made a deal to acquire CANarchy for $330 million. But the Monster deal only included the labels and production, not the seven restaurants, brewpubs and cafés under the Squatters and Wasatch brands, leaving the future of the local favorite brewpubs in question. Then came the announcement that Cole and Polychronis had returned to reacquire Salt Lake Brewing Company (SLBC), which holds the locations. That means a big piece of local history is back in the hands of locals. The restaurants will continue to sell all of the beers currently produced by the breweries and operate under the Squatters and Wasatch brands (but they’ll have to buy those beers from Monster now). It also means the 300 people who are currently employed by SLBC will keep their jobs. So, where can you go for a good beer on tap? The Squatters and Wasatch (squatters.com, wasatchbeers.com) locations are as follows: • Squatters Downtown Pub in Salt Lake City (the first location, open since 1989) • Wasatch Brew Pub in Sugar House • Squatters Roadhouse Grill & Pub in Park City • Wasatch Brew Pub in Park City • Wasatch Brew Pub in Salt Lake International Airport • Squatters Pub Brewery in Salt Lake International Airport • Craft Café By Squatters & Wasatch at Salt Lake International Center Sidle up to the bar, grab a cold pint and an old-fashioned burger. It’s still good for what ales you.

PHOTO COURTESY SALT LAKE BREWING COMPANY

Peter Cole and Jeff Polychronis at Downtown Squatters

THE PINES

837 S. Main St., SLC, 801-906-8418. @thepines.slc

From the owners of Dick N’ Dixie’s, The Pines is an elevated neighborhood bar with a cool interior and even cooler bartenders. Stop by to taste their solid range of brews, or visit the bar on a weekend for a new wave discotheque.

POST OFFICE PLACE

16 W. Market St., SLC, 801-519-9595. popslc.com

Post Office offers craft cocktails, multicultural small plates and the largest selection of Japanese whisky in the state. Ask for a “special delivery” if you’re up for a boozy adventure.

QUARTERS

5 E. 400 South, SLC, 801-477-7047. quartersslc.com

looking pedestrian traffic. Special cocktails may be themed to what’s on stage across the street at Capitol Theatre.

WAKARA BAR

480 Wakara Way, SLC, 801-581-1000.

One of the few bars on the west bench, Wakara serves craft cocktails and hosts live music, trivia nights, liquor education and even, occasionally, drag queens.

WATER WITCH

Three of Utah’s leading bartenders join forces in this charming tiny bar. Whether you want a classic drink, a draft or glass of wine, or a cocktail custom-designed to your taste, this is the place to belly up.

WHISKEY STREET

RABBIT HOLE

This stretch of Main was once dubbed “Whiskey Street” because it was lined with so many pubs and bars. A 42-foot-long cherry wood bar encourages you to bend the elbow.

Downstairs in Lake Effect, the gaslit Rabbit Hole takes you to a different time, especially on Wednesday nights which are devoted to jazz. The Rabbit is a real listening room—you don’t talk over or under the music. This rare respect and a top notch bar makes this a very unusual hare.

SEABIRD BAR & VINYL ROOM

323 S. Main St., SLC, 801-433-1371. whiskeystreet.com

WHY KIKI

69 W. 100 South, SLC, 801-641-6115. whykikibar.com

A tropical beach-themed club to get away at with a fruity drink in a tiki glass (or bowl!) or shake it on the dance floor. Don’t miss Taco Tuesday or the regular drag shows.

7 S. Rio Grande, The Gateway, SLC, 801-456-1223. seabirdutah.com

Great little locally owned bar in the Gateway with great views, a fun little patio, friendly bartenders and more style than the place can hold.

THE REST AND BODEGA

331 S. Main St., SLC, 801-532-4452. bodegaslc.com

The neon sign says “Bodega;” drink a beer in the phone booth–sized front or head downstairs to the The Rest. Order a cocktail, settle into the apparently bomb-proof book-lined library, or take a booth and sit at the bar.

THE SHOOTING STAR

7350 E. 200 South, Huntsville, 801-745-2002. shooting-star-saloon.business.site

More than a century old, this is gen-you-wine Old West. The walls are adorned with moose heads and a stuffed St. Bernard. Good luck finishing your Star Burger.

VARLEY

63 W. 100 South, SLC, 801-203-4124. varleyslc.com

A craft cocktail bar and lounge situated right next to its companion restaurant The Ivy. The modern aesthetic pairs well with a classic cocktail and conversation.

ZEST KITCHEN & BAR

275 S. 200 West, SLC, 801-433-0589. zestslc.com

Zest offers hand-crafted fresh juice cocktails with the same emphasis on local and organic ingredients as the food—try an original concoction like the Straw-bubbly Lavender Martini.

202 S. Main St., SLC, 801-363-5454. bambara-slc.com/the-vault

A quintessential hotel bar, with big windows over-

Fisher takes its name from a brewery originally founded in 1884, but the brews and low-key atmosphere are strictly right now. One of the few in town that has cask ale occasionally.

KIITOS BREWING

608 W. 700 South, 801-215-9165. kiitosbrewing.com

A rising star, Kiitos brews are on several menus around town. But if you stop by the brewery to taste, you can play pinball, too.

LEVEL CROSSING

2496 S. West Temple, SLC, 385-270-5752. levelcrossingbrewing.com

Opened by home brewer and photographer Chris Detrick, Level Crossing is long on games (like darts), good food and of course good beer.

PROPER BREWING CO.

857 S. Main St., 801-953-1707. properbrewingco.com

From the same proper folks who brought you the Publick House, Proper Brewery and Burgers hugely expands the brewing capacity of the original.

RED ROCK BREWERY

254 S. 200 West, SLC, 801-521-7446. redrockbrewing.com

A longtime favorite for tippling and tasting—the pub draws on 45 recipes for its rotating selection.

ROHA

30 E. Kensington Ave., SLC, 385-227-8982. rohabrewing.com

The name comes from the owners two names: Rob Phillips and Chris Haas, former brewer for Red Rock Brewery.

SHADES BREWING

154 W. Utopia Ave., South Salt Lake, 435-200-3009. shadesbrewing.beer

Beers & Brews BOHEMIAN BREWERY

94 E. 7200 South, Midvale, 801-566-5474. bohemianbrewery.com

Enjoy the lagers beloved by Bohemian’s owners’ Czech forebears, following the ancient Reinheitsgbot or German Purity Law.

DESERT EDGE BREWERY

273 S. TROLLEY SQUARE, SLC, 801-521-8917. desertedgebrewery.com

A mom-and-pop brewery supplying many local restaurants—check the website—stop by their tap room.

SQUATTERS/WASATCH

147 W. Broadway, SLC, 801-363-2739. squatters.com 2110 Highland Dr., SLC, 801-783-1127. wasatchbeers.com

Salt Lake’s original breweries merged to form Utah Brewers Cooperative—Squatters and Wasatch are the most popular watering holes in Salt Lake.

TF BREWING

936 S. 300 West, SLC, 385-270-5972. tfbrewing.com

The constantly changing variety and Beer School set Desert Edge apart from all the others. This classic Salt Lake bar (and restaurant) continues to innovate its brews.

TF stands for Templin Family; brewmaster Kevin Templin has a long history in Salt Lake’s beer scene. Expect meticulously made German-style beer and don’t miss game night.

EPIC BREWING COMPANY

UINTA BREWING COMPANY

Epic exclusively brews high-alcohol content beer. The brewing facility moved to Colorado, but you can still buy cold beer to-go at the taproom.

Founder Will Hamill says, “We make beer. Period.” Uinta produces certified organic beers and beer in corked bottles.

825 S. State St., SLC, 801-906-0123. epicbrewing.com

THE VAULT

320 W. 800 South, SLC, 801-487-2337. fisherbeer.com

163 W. 900 South, SLC, 801-462-0967. waterwitchbar.com

Nostalgic for all those Gen Xers and gamer geeks, Quarters features retro gaming pinball and a game called Killer Queen. Drink a sling—or order a La Croix with a shot poured into the can.

155 W. 200 South, SLC, 801-532-2068. lakeeffectslc.com

FISHER BREWING COMPANY

1722 S. Fremont Dr., SLC, 801-467-0909. uintabrewing.com

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THE PASTRAMI BURGER BY JEREMY PUGH

T ’ S A M E LT I N G P O T, they always say of America—immigrants crossing seas (and these days, guarded borders) to meld tradition and culture into an increasingly complicated stew, now simmering into its third century. So how is it that one of Utah’s best examples of the great American experiment is a quarter-pound patty of char-grilled hamburger topped with a wad of thin-sliced pastrami? The Pastrami Burger is quite the genealogical riddle. The mind boggles when you discover its Utah prominence can be laid at the feet of a Greek immigrant who learned to make it from a Turk in California, where Hebrew delicatessen food had found its way into a few burger stands. Utah’s community of Greek immigrants has deep roots. Following the western mining boom that came with the completion of the Transcontinental Railroad, these settlers arrived in Utah beginning in the late 1890s. A Greektown sprang up near where the rail spur entered the city, and by 1911, it was one of SLC’s liveliest districts, lined with coffeehouses and saloons, and filled with merchants selling olive oil, figs, octopus and dates. Greektown is no more. Its most lasting physical remnant is the Greek Orthodox Church on 300 West. But the immigrants had children, and those children opened

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burger joints, with mythical names like Apollo Burger and Olympus Burger and not-so-mythical names like B&D Burger and, the most royal of all, Crown Burger. It was Crown Burgers’ founder Manuel Katsanevas from whose head, like Athena from Zeus’, sprang the Pastrami Burger, fully formed and ready for battle. Katsanevas learned of the mythical pairing of pastrami and burger from his late brother James, who had picked up the combo in California, from the aforementioned anonymous Turk. But Katsanevas doesn’t like to admit that. Turks and Greeks don’t get along as well as pastrami and ground beef. The resultant creation is served at almost every Greek originated burger spot. In the Socratic tradition, the essential burger is the logos and each restaurant imparts its particular impression. At the Apollo it is dubbed the Apollo Burger. At Olympus Burger they call it the Olympus Burger. At Crown Burger it is the Crown Burger, and

so forth. The combination and the unique whole it creates informs them all. The paprika-spicy pastrami melds with the smoky char-grilled beef to create a pile of salty flavor, designed, it seems, by the old gods to make your mouth water. In Utah, it’s all Greek to us.