DINING AWARDS: CHEF'S CHOICE

2022 SALT LAKE MAGAZINE

EACH YEAR, SALT LAKE MAGAZINE RECOGNIZES THE STATE’S BEST RESTAURANTS IN ITS ANNUAL DINING AWARDS EDITION. FOR 2022, WE ASKED SOME OF THE BEST CHEFS IN UTAH AND OUR PAST HONOREES “WHO DO YOU LOVE?” AND WE GOT PLENTY OF LOVE IN RESPONSE. THE BUSINESS OF MAKING FOOD IS A BUSINESS, OF COURSE, BUT THERE IS A SPECIAL CAMARADERIE AMONG THOSE WHO SPEND THEIR LIVES CREATING CUISINE, A KINSHIP, RATHER THAN RIVALRY. THE 2022 SALT LAKE MAGAZINE DINING AWARDS PRESENTS 14 CHEFS, EACH PAIRED BY THEIR MUTUAL ADMIRATION FOR EACH OTHER, REMINDING US THAT WE ARE ALL STRONGER TOGETHER.

BY SALT LAKE MAGAZINE STAFF // PHOTOS BY ADAM FINKLE

SPONSORED BY

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NOMINEES

MANOLI & KATRINA KATSANEVAS OF MANOLI’S

Nohm: Rare and risky

NOMINATED BY

MIKE BLOCKER OF TABLE X

MANOLI’S HAS BEEN open for six years but Manoli and Katrina Katsanevas have been cooking for more than a decade. Manoli started working in a family restaurant at age 13 and his wife, Katrina learned to cook at home. Manoli’s menu takes traditional Greek dishes and adds presentation and influence from France, Spain and Italy to create flavorful Mediterranean cuisine.

“We’re both Greek, but we didn’t just want to go the traditional Greek route,” Manoli says. “We put the emphasis on local, fresh, simple, healthy, just really good Mediterranean food. One of our biggest inspirations is just seeing how much our customers enjoy our food, and how that can make an impact in their lives and change their day. That’s why you get into the

business, to feed and please people.

When people have a really great dining experience, it changes their mood,” Katrina says. “We’re very big about being in the present, being in the moment. We emphasize shared plates, so it’s about being there, in the moment, with each other, with the people that you love.”

DISHES NOT TO MISS.“My favorite is the octopus,” Manoli says. “I love the octopus, and our pilaf—homemade lemon rice—is very comforting. Those are probably two dishes that I could eat every day. The octopus is also my favorite thing to make.”

“My favorite would be our Garides—a grilled shrimp served over polenta,” Katrina says. “And I’ve always loved Dolmades (grape leaves served with rice, herbs, tomato, house Greek yogurt). I could eat those at 2 a.m. right out of the fridge.”

ONE COOL THING. “We do a killer brunch on the weekend,” Manoli says.

“We bring Greek inspiration to traditional brunch dishes”

Manoli’s // 402 E. Harvey Milk Blvd. (900 S.)#2, SLC, 801-532-3760, manolison9th.com

‘WHY I LOVE MANOLI’S’ “Manoli introduced himself to me right after we opened Table X. I love that his menu has so much traditional Greek flavor presented in a simple, modern way. It’s a unique concept for Salt Lake. As a chef/ owner myself, I wish I could get out more and enjoy Manoli’s food. I always respect, admire, and relate to people that not just own their business but also work in their restaurants every night and lead by example.”

WHY DOES MANOLI’S DESERVE TO BERECOGNIZED IN THE 2022 DINING AWARDS?“Manoli and Katrina work so hard and have always been gracious and kind in welcoming us to the SLC food scene years ago. We’ve enjoyed doing events, collaboration, and charity dinners with them and they set a great example of what local restaurant owners should strive to be.” — Michael Blocher of Table X

Table X // 1457 E. 3350 South, SLC,385-528-3712, tablexrestaurant.com

House smoked salmon, crispy potato feta cake, herbed Greek yogurt, fried capers

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NOMINEES

WALI & MIRIAM ARSHAD OF AFGHAN KITCHEN

NOMINATED BY

FRANCIS FECTEAU OF LIBATIONS INC.

Nohm: Rare and risky

WALI ARSHAD CAME to the United States from Afghanistan and surprise, surprise discovered that there weren’t any good Afghan restaurants in Utah. He opened a small restaurant with his partner chef Naheem Amel. And set out to introduce Utah to the cuisine of his country.

“I always tell people that our cuisine is in-between Indian and Iranian,” Wali says. “Afghans think Indians use too much spice and Iranians use too little. We are right in the middle.”

I have learned that preparing food is a work of art,” Wali says. “When a customer leaves happy it motivates me more. I had never been to culinary school and didn't know how to cook. My wife trained me and together we built a menu that we love. Hospitality is key in our culture. If you come to my home I’ll give you a feast.”

DISHES NOT TO MISS. “The lamb shank, Qabili Palau, is our most popular dish but we serve everything family style so everyone can share and try it all.”

Lamb Shank Qabili Palau — Fall off the bone lamb shank, slow-cooked to perfection and served with seasoned aromatic basmati rice topped with caramelized carrots and raisins. (Qabili palau, also known as Kabuli palau is Afghanistan's national dish.)

ONE COOL THING. “My vision for this restaurant is that you come here and feel like you are dining in Afghanistan and you get a sense of our cultural sense of hospitality.”Afghan Kitchen // 1465 S. State St., SLC,801-953-1398. 3142 S. Main St., South SaltLake, 385-229-4155. afghan-kitchen.com

‘WHY I LOVE AFGHAN KITCHEN’ “I discovered Afghan Kitchen as just a random quarantine meal choice. I didn’t understand the menu but I thought, ‘what the hell.’ It was a random confluence of hunger and curiosity.

My first taste was a party in my mouth! It’s easy for Central Asian cuisine to blur from region to region but this was distinctly different from its regional neighbors. I love the authenticity here. I had never tasted anything like it, there was a depth to the cuisine and it survived the transit of takeout. I eat there three-four times a month and love the mantu dumplings and the Borani Banjan. It's as if the eggplant was made into edible silk. Qorma E Murgh is a chicken dish that many would confuse with Indian tikka masala but there's this fresh gingery lift to it that blows

my mind and the balance!”

WHY DOES AFGHAN KITCHEN DESERVE TOBE RECOGNIZED IN THE 2022 DINING

AWARDS? “The Arshads are wizards who clearly love their native land. Afghan Kitchen brings a new and necessary element to the SLC culinary landscape. It’s like discovering a new color or a new sound.” — Francis Fecteau of Libation Inc.)

Libation Inc. // libationslc.com

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in mind designed to create an experience.

NOMINEE

MIKE BLOCHER OF TABLE X

NOMINATED BY

ANGIE FULLER OF OQUIRRH RESTAURANT

ONE COOL THING. Table X has always had house-made bread and butter on the menu. But during the pandemic, the bread operation has grown. They started making and selling bread wholesale to other restaurants and recently opened a storefront bakery where you can buy loaves and bread-forward pastries directly from the restaurant.

Nohm: Rare and risky

TABLE X HAS evolved over the years. Started by a team of chefs who came from traditional, fine dining restaurants on the East Coast, Nick Fahs & Mike Blocher has recently gone to a single tasting menu. While Nick focuses on the restaurant’s bakery (now selling directly to customers) Mike sources food locally, much of it from the restaurant’s own garden.

“Last summer we started seating in the garden area,” Mike says. “You’re next to the plants you’re enjoying, and in the winter we’re working to preserve the excess of what we grow so you’re always going to get flavors from the garden.”

The duo uses the bakery to experiment with fermentation, pickling and other preservation techniques in the restaurant’s tradition of continuing to explore and learn.

“We try to push the boundaries of the food scene here but we don’t overmanipulate,” Mike says. “We use a small number of ingredients for each dish and present it to catch your eye. There are no parameters except that there is definitely not a burger on our menu.”

DISHES NOT TO MISS. The restaurant’s tasting menu means there isn’t a dish you can miss, although there is both a vegetarian and omnivore lane to choose from. Each evening’s tasting, either five or seven courses, with optional wine pairings, is built with seasonal ingredients

Table X // 1457 E. 3350 South, SLC,385-528-3712, tablexrestaurant.com

‘WHY I LOVE TABLE X’ “I love that they’ve gone to a tasting-menu-only format. Just to be like, ‘this is our menu tonight, let us feed you.’ That’s something this city has had since (Viet Pham’s) Forage. It opens people’s minds and that’s really important. We share a commonality with Table X in that we want to cook with as many seasonal products as we can. Farm-totable isn’t anything new but Table X thinks in terms of putting the best, freshest ingredients on the plate. It takes extra effort but it elevates all of us supporting the local growers that we all use and by showing people just how good food can be.’”

WHY DOES TABLE X DESERVE TO BERECOGNIZED IN THE 2022 DINING

AWARDS? “First of all and probably most important, the food is good. It’s thoughtfully prepared and served beautifully. But I also see Table X trying to help set apart Salt Lake’s dining scene. They are part of a community of restaurants that are convincing people that there is great food here.” — Angie Fuller of Oquirrh Restaurant

Oquirrh Restaurant // 368 E. 100 South,SLC, 801-359-0426

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Farro Verde; savoy cabbage, calabrian chili, dried olive, house capicola

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NOMINEE

ANNY SOOKSRI OF TEA ROSE DINER, CHABAAR BEYOND THAI & FAV BISTRO

NOMINATED BY

LAVANYA MAHATE OF SAFFRON VALLEY

Nohm: Rare and risky

IN 2006 ANNY Sooksri opened Tea Rose Diner in a still, she admits, hard-to-find location in Murray. She says she set out to make the food she grew up with helping her grandmother and aunts cook at home.

“When I came to Utah, I felt like many ethnic restaurants set out to make food for Americans,” she says. “That’s not what I like. I’m stubborn so I make food I like for those who like it too.”

The result is three restaurants including Chabaar Beyond Thai and Fav Bistro. Everything is made from scratch, the way she learned as a child helping her grandmother.

“We don’t take any shortcuts,” she says. “Everything is cooked fresh. I come from a country where everything is fresh. When I first came here, I saw broccoli in the freezer and I thought what is that? I’d never seen it before in my life”

“Before I started my restaurants, I used to work at the post office. I worked hard but there was no appreciation for my work. Now, even though the restaurant business is hard, I am a part of a family. My customers and staff are my family. When people eat my food and love it, that is worth more than anything you can pay me.”

DISHES NOT TO MISS. “We make our pad thai in an upscale Thai way, and fold the noodles into the egg. It’s kind of like an omelet, very pretty. My cooks hate it because it’s very hard to do. You have to be able to make it fast enough so it doesn’t stick to the pan but not too fast or it gets too hot and crumbles.”

ONE COOL THING. “We are the hottest Thai

food in Utah,” she says. “No joke. I tell people to order the mild spice (level) if you’re not used to very spicy Thai food.”

Tea Rose Diner // 65 E. 5th Ave., Murray,801-685-6111, bestthaifoodinutah.comChabaar Beyond Thai // 87 W. 7200 South,Midvale, 801-566-5100, chabaarbeyondthai.comFav Bistro // 1984 E. Murray Holladay Rd.,Holladay, 801-676-9300, favbistro.com

‘WHY I LOVE FAV BISTRO/CHABAAR BEYOND THAI/TEA ROSE DINER’ “Just imagine you are thousands of miles away from your home and decide to make this home yours and then share your home with the people who live here. I can relate to that and I recognize

Anny for her work in educating local taste. Every time I eat at one of her restaurants, the food is delicious and you can see that it’s made with pride. (The chicken rice is the best!) She has a good way of introducing new foods to Utah. She showcases Thai cuisine in a way that is not intimidating and I understand what a challenge that is.”

WHY DOES ANNY SOOKSRI DESERVE TO BERECOGNIZED IN THE 2022 DINING AWARDS? “She cooks from her heart and years of experience. She is constantly working and looking for creative ideas to keep everything fresh and innovative. She also takes good care of her staff and demonstrates mutual love and respect for everyone.” — Lavanya Mahate of Saffron Valley

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NOMINEES

ANDREW & ANGIE FULLER OF OQUIRRH

Nohm: Rare and risky

NOMINATED BY

SCOTT EVANS OF PAGO GROUP

ANDREW AND ANGIE Fuller have always known they wanted to open a restaurant together. Andrew worked in the back and Angie worked out front and where some people use restaurant work on the way to something else, they never wanted to leave.

“We both knew that’s what we wanted to do for the long term,” Andrew says. “We both were working really hard, long hours and decided that if that was going to be our job, we might as well be doing it for ourselves.”

Oquirrh opened in 2019 with Andrew’s artfully nostalgic menu coming out of the kitchen and Angie’s ideas about hospitality and service in the front.

“We want Oquirrh to be Oquirrh,” Andrew says. “The only way to do that can be having me in the kitchen almost every

night and a service experience that comes from having Angie in the building.”

The result is a cozy, welcoming and unpretentious restaurant that offers a living room vibe.

DISHES NOT TO MISS. Although Oquirrh’s menu is not fixed, one staple that Andrew and Angie just can’t shake is his elevated take on the chicken pot pie—a delicate puff pastry filled with a decadent confit, fennel mirepoix and mushrooms. It comes and goes on the menu but the restaurant's loyal following always lobbies for its return.

ONE COOL THING. A seat at Oguirr’s small bar up offers a front-row seat to experience the Fuller’s idea of hospitality. Angie is upfront, chatty as she hustles the evening’s service along and Andrew occasionally emerges from the back to wipe his brow and take a break. Although there’s not a bad seat in the house at Oquirrh, if you’re in a small group, try the bar.

Oquirrh // 368 E. 100 South, SLC, 801-359-0426

‘WHY I LOVE OQUIRRH RESTAURANT’ “Drew was the Chef de Cuisine at Pago on 9th & 9th before we went on to Oquirrh. The menu at Oquirrh is unique, balanced and well-executed. Drew's food is creative and playful yet relatable. There aren't any excesses on the plate that don't contribute to the dish. Drew has found the balance between plating beautiful dishes and executing the dishes perfectly. Too many up-and-coming chefs rely on plating alone and miss seasoning, texture, temperature. His experience and palette allow Drew to innovate with precision. An example is the milk braised potatoes. It’s a dish you can eat every time you visit. It showcases Drew’s ability to transform humble ingredients into complex, elevated fare.”

WHY DOES OQUIRRH DESERVE TO BERECOGNIZED IN THE 2022 DINING

AWARDS? In my opinion, the best restaurants and chefs push the market through their creativity and execution. His talent behind the stove is apparent, he has worked in great restaurants in Utah and beyond. The menu offers items not available elsewhere and all

Cabbage smoked on the Traeger: Fermented fall squash “Romesco,” squash tear honey and sage.

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NOMINEE

MILO CARRIER OF ARLO RESTAURANT

Nohm: Rare and risky

NOMINATED BY

STEVEN ROSENBERG OF LIBERTY HEIGHTS FRESH

MILO CARRIER HASN’T stopped cooking since he was 16 years old, his wife Brooke Doner explains. “His mom was very egalitarian with chores,” she says, chuckling. “If Milo cooked he didn’t have to help clean up.” Their restaurant Arlo opened in the space where Em’s used to be on Capitol Hill in Salt Lake and now has become a city and neighborhood favorite.

“I went to college at the U, floundered around there for a while, before I realized I wanted to pursue culinary school,” Milo says. “I moved to San Francisco and worked there for six years but eventually came back to Salt Lake City with the idea that I wanted to open my own restaurant.”

The couple started in SLC with pop-up events and catering, including a series of “Caterpillar Dinners” in unlikely locations like the foothills of SLC and empty warehouses. At Arlo, Miles gets to explore his ever-changing concept of cuisine, with a seasonal menu that never stays the same from month to month.

“For me, Arlo is non-linear and not stuck in time,” he says. “We’re always looking for new influences and are open to all cuisines. Arlo is whatever it is today and whatever it will be tomorrow, at the same time.”

ONE COOL THING. Arlo expanded its patio and heated dining options in a quick response to the pandemic. They’re continuing to expand the terrace and outdoor dining options.

Arlo Restaurant // 271 N. North Center St.,SLC, 385-266-8845, arlorestaurant.com

‘WHY I LOVE ARLO RESTAURANT’ “I had heard that Em’s on Capitol Hill had been re-envisioned and opened as Arlo. I was impressed to see the creativity of each dish is exceptional. Ingredients are carefully sourced, of high integrity, and possess flavor and texture that are superb. There is So much thought in each and every plated dish. Now, I eat there two to three times each month. The Cuban Pork Shoulder on the brunch

menu blows me away. I feel like I’m in Miami at a Cuban friend’s house.”

WHY DOES ARLO DESERVE TO BERECOGNIZED IN THE 2022 DINING

AWARDS? “Milo has been developing and growing his repertoire for this opportunity for many years—working in SLC, San Francisco, and many other places to hone their skills. Chef Milo is attentive to every detail in the dining room and terrace. When out of town guests arrive in Utah, we dine at Arlo.” — Steven Rosenberg of Liberty Heights Fresh

Liberty Heights Fresh // 1290 S. 1100East, SLC, 801-583-7374,libertyheightsfresh.com

Pacifico Sea Bass with New Potatoes, Piperade with Castelvetrano Olives and Refried Peas Winter Citrus, Safflower Petals, and Some Nice Herbs Lemon Fish Broth

DISHES NOT TO MISS. “It’s maybe a weird concept but our favorite dishes are what are on the menu now,” Brooke says. “It’s always changing based on what’s available locally and how Milo develops a dish. We’ll start out at the beginning of the week with a dish and by the end, he will have tweaked it into something else. In a month, we’re bored of it and it's on to something else.”

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NOMINEE

DAVID CHON OF NOHM

NOMINATED BY

RYAN LOWDER OF THE COPPER ONION

Nohm: Rare and risky

DAVID CHON, THE owner of Nohm, started working in restaurants when he was 16 because he discovered he could make money at a young age. He also discovered food. He went to the University of Utah and studied architecture but kept coming back to restaurants. He joined a family friend in the business and then, as he says, “it all clicked.”

“From there I decided I wanted to own a restaurant and started focusing on techniques. I went back to Korea and Japan and worked at restaurants. I would run out of money, come back and go again learning and perfecting my knowledge of these two cuisines.”

Nohm, a Korean word that means people, is not, however, a Japanese-Korean restaurant. It is both, concurrently.

“Our main goal was to do either this or that,” he says. “We serve Korean dishes and Japanese dishes but we don’t try to combine them.”

DISHES NOT TO MISS. Nohm is emphatically not a “fusion” restaurant. This means your tabletop could see a steaming hot bowl of Japanese Oden, a brothy stew of fish cakes, stuffed shiitake, marinated egg and braised daikon, alongside a selection of meats on skewers prepared the traditional Korean way.

ONE COOL THING. Nohm’s menu is succinct and to the point, like its chef-owner. David challenges diners with simple, exacting preparations of food that may sound unfamiliar but rewards the curious with the pleasing sensation of discovering something new.

Nohm // 165 W. 900 South, SLC, 801-917-3812,nohmslc.com

‘WHY I LOVE NOHM’ “David is doing something that’s needed in this town. He has a hand in everything in the kitchen and you can tell. It’s one of the best restaurants in the state. Hands down. He’s doing something that people aren’t familiar with here. He could easily take his concept and American-ize it, but he’s hell-bent on what he’s doing. I lived in the East Village in New York when David Chang opened Momofuku and it took a while to get traction. Nohm reads like that to me. With David Chom, you have a guy with a vision and he’s not changing it. You gotta admire it. Because that’s the way the food culture here is going to change.”

WHY DOES NOHM DESERVE TO BERECOGNIZED IN THE 2022 DINING AWARDS? “Because his food is really good, and he’s not adjusting for Utah’s midwestern tastes. That’s rare and it’s risky. He’s willing to wait it out and get traction for what he’s come up with. People need to discover Nohm and David’s dedication.” — Ryan Lowder of The Copper Onion

The Copper Onion // 11 E. Broadway, SLC,801-355-3282, thecopperonion.comCopper Common // 11 E. Broadway, SLC,801-355-0543, coppercommon.comThe Daily // 222 S. Main St., SLC, 801-297-1660,thedailyslc.com/

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