Salt Lake Magazine March-April 2021 by Salt Lake Magazine

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MARCH/APRIL 2021

FEATURES

59 THE 2021 BLUE PLATE AWARDS BY JEREMY PUGH AND JOSH PETERSEN

Each year, Salt Lake magazine recognizes our community’s hospitality heroes with our Blue Plate Awards. We honor the growers, food evangelists, grocers, servers, bakers, chefs, bartenders, restaurateurs— basically anyone who has a hand in the essential act of feeding us and does so with grace, style, creativity and care.

70 ROAD TRIP: WYOMING

BY JEREMY PUGH

These days travel is closer to home and Utah is surrounded by amazing wonders and natural beauty. Here’s our guide to exploring the Cowboy State from corner to corner.

78 THE ONLY UTAH PASSENGER

BY HE ATHER HAYES

ON THE COVER The 2021 Blue Plate Awards recognize standouts in our hospitality industry.

Titanic passenger Irene Corbett of Provo would’ve had early access to a lifeboat, but her descendants believe she remained on the sinking ship to help others.

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contents

108

25 the hive BY SALT L AKE

We’ve noted a return of red sauce to the SL food scene, Golf seems like a good idea these days (even if you don’t like golf) and the kids discover Salt Lake’s lost history.

43 park city BY TONY GILL

The Californians are coming! The Californians are coming! Or are they? Plus, we take you around the world in six restaurants and help you find a good stiff drink along the way.

on the table BY SALT L AKE

We’re mad for Mad Doughnuts and learning to love mushrooms. And naturally, all the good restaurants.

108 bar fly BY K AITLYN CHRIST Y

Bars are boxing up their concoctions into ready-to make cocktail kits.

112 last page BY JEREMY PUGH

In this Utah Field Guide we explore the depths of Bear Lake. Hint: There’s a monster.

volume 32 number 2 Salt Lake magazine (ISSN# 1524-7538) is published bimonthly (February, April, June, August, October and December) by Utah Partners Publishing, Ltd. Editorial, advertising and administrative offices: 515 S. 700 East, Suite 3i, SLC, UT 84102. Telephone 801-485-5100; fax 801-485-5133. Subscriptions: One year ($24.95); for shipping outside the U.S. add $45. Toll-free subscription number: 877-553-5363. Periodicals Postage Paid at Salt Lake City, Utah, and additional mailing offices. Copyright 2021, JES Publishing Corp. No whole or part of the contents may be reproduced in any manner without prior written permission of Salt Lake magazine, excepting individually copyrighted articles and photographs. Manuscripts accompanied by SASE are accepted, but no responsibility will be assumed for unsolicited contributions. POSTMASTER: Send address corrections to Salt Lake magazine, PO Box 820, Boca Raton, FL 33429.

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EDITOR’S LETTER MARY BROWN MALOUF GRABS A SIESTA AT YELLOWSTONE FALLS IN YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK ON A TOUR WITH JACKSON HOLE WILDLIFE SAFARIS LAST FALL. READ ABOUT THE ADVENTURE ON PAGE 70.

Dr. Watson, I presume? THIS WAS THE NOTE MARY SE NT ME

before I took the job as her second-chair here at the magazine. “Dear Jeremy — If we’re clear, I’ll send an official offer letter. I want to make a few things clear about the job I’m offering you. It will be hard. This isn’t the Salt Lake magazine you asked me to join you 15 years ago. As its full-time managing editor, your writing and management load will be heavy, like mine. It’s a lot. But I still think it’s also a lot of fun.” Little did I know how hard. Fifteen years ago was 2006. I was the much younger and very green editor of this magazine and Mary blew for an interview. No one was sure what to make of her, me included. In the life to come, Mary would raise a glass in the house on Reed and praise me for being the guy that hired her. But truthfully, she hired me. She put her arms around me and told me it was going to be OK. And it was, as the line goes, the beginning of a beautiful friendship. For 15 years, in one way, or another Mary and I worked together, within the magazine and without. When I came back as her managing editor last year, we were firing on all cylinders. We kicked off the reunion with a daring trip to Jackson, which I re-

count in “Road Trip: Wyoming” (page 70). Yeah, me and Mary “shoveled” a lot of words over the years (as she would say) and I loved being the Watson to her Holmes. The previous issue of this magazine was us two, standing back to back, shoveling those words together. This one? Well. What you will read in these pages is the product of Mary and our team’s last conversations, inklings and flourishes. This new design was hatched right out of Mary’s brain and made real by the brilliance of our amazing designers, Jeanine Miller and Scott Peterson. Our “Blue Plate Awards” (page 59) are an especially poingant reminder of everything we willl miss from our executive editor. Mary was proud of this magazine and we’re proud to keep on making her proud. xoxomm.

Jeremy Pugh

1 “Arthur Conan Doyle never had Sherlock Holmes say, “Dr. Watson, I presume.” It’s a mix up of the first meeting of Watson and Holmes with the meeting of the colonial explorers Dr. David Livingston and Henry Morton Stanley in Africa. What Holmes actually said, Mary would like you to know, in his opening lines of A Study in Scarlet was: “You have been in Afghanistan, I perceive.” Mary would have thought this, and my clarifying footnote, hilarious.”

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COMMENTS

BEAUTY AND THE BEHOLDER Mary, I miss her. I liked to talk to her about art. Most people couldn’t give a damn, but she got it. It was really fun! She laughed at my dumb jokes. The last time I saw her, I gave her a small bird skull I found on the beach. She saw how beautiful it was. I talked to Mary about ducks and ants, and she listened. We were on the same page there. God, I miss Mary. —Trent Harris, filmmaker

SALT LAKE’S DOROTHY PARKER Following the passing late last year of our longtime executive editor, friend, and previously unstoppable force of nature, Mary Brown Malouf, we received a massive outpouring of support and mourning from the community that she loved and was loved by. We devoted this issue’s Reader Comment section to a selection of these many kind words. —Ed.

AFTERNOONS AND SWIZZLE STICKS Mary Brown Malouf and her late husband Glen Warchol used to drop into my bookshop late in the afternoon and we would have a grand old time holding forth upon everything under the sun. Glen’s passing was really hard for her but since his death, Mary worked to get out more, do things and see people. Around this time, my friend, the filmmaker, Trent Harris, had dragged myself and others to Dick ’n’ Dixies for after-work drinks. Mary started showing up with her pal, Jeremy Pugh, the mag’s second-chair editor, who brought along the Tribune’s Robert Gehrke and his partner Laura Petersen. Historian Will Bagley would show too and, once in a while,

SALTLAKEMAGAZINE.COM

drag along his brother Pat, the Tribune’s cartoonist. Plus, a random gang of idiots. In a noisy bar, it’s easy for women to get talked over, often outnumbered by loud dumb men, of which I have been told I can be. Mary might have been in the minority but by gum, she would hold her own. No matter how arcane the subject, Mary was well versed in it and knew more than you did. Before Mary started showing up, our bar conversations usually featured Trent yelling over my free-form rants. “Nobody knows what the f*** you’re talking about Sanders! Shut the f*** up.” But Mary knew. She always got what I was talking about and could add several one-ups to it. I have yet to return to Dick ’n’ Dixie’s since the COVID came, but

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Mary once told me: “Everyone likes the Beatles — until they’ve had great sex. Then it’s all about The Rolling Stones.” This was after we’d killed our sixth bottle of pink champagne during a party at her home. It was her way of cutting the Gordian Knot over one of those thorny disputes that come up when everyone is talking just a little too loud and arguing about things that don’t matter. Not only was she right. She was, as her late husband Glen Warchol often pointed out, always right. More than that, though, she had an uncanny knack for being able to look at things differently, to turn them around and grasp the beauty and absurdity—or sometimes both — of any situation. It’s what made her a powerful writer, a stern critic and a beautiful friend. She was our own Dorothy Parker in any setting—erudite, with a lightning wit and sharp tongue. She was also tremendously caring and kind, and she loved all relentlessly. As a community, we’re going to miss her insight and voice. Those of us who loved her and her spirit are going to

miss her even more. Before Mary, Salt Lake City really liked the Beatles. Thanks to her, now it’s all about The Stones. With love, xxoomm. — Robert Gehrke, Salt Lake Tribune columnist

FOR A RANDOM BIT OF PINK I miss my friend. I didn’t believe it when I heard. She made her escape; she’s likely stranded herself on an island weaving spells to protect her cat, Halo, fermenting coconut milk into some approximation of mezcal or perhaps off to the mountains of Oaxaca and a new career as a pink-haired bruja living in a well-appointed cave where local villagers bring food (and mezcal in clay jars) in exchange for spells ensuring their good fortune. The brain does funny things to protect us from grief. Many will recount Mary’s doubtless virtues; sure, her wit and wisdom made us all rise to the occasion. Food and drink were an excuse to talk and share. The point was never the food or drink but the people, and I count myself fortunate to have been in her orbit. High tea? Sure, but one sunny day we drank mezcal out of the trunk of my car; she let me keep the antique shot glass, the love was in the sharing. Always the smartest person in the room, always, but in keeping with her generous soul, she let me in on the joke without making me feel like a dope. She reminded me an awful lot of my own mother, whip-smart and literate. After my mom passed, Mary stepped in, little did she know, and I felt that much less of an alien talking to her. Losing a mom once is terrible, losing one twice is still making me swallow hard in the dark. Oh, for a random bit of pink. —Francis Fecteau, owner, Libations, Inc.

OH, HOW SHE JANGLED It’s unbelievable, impossible really, that Mary is gone. That she was vacationing on the coast, hundreds of miles from Salt Lake, only makes it seem more so.

ILLUSTRATION BY SCOTT PETERSON

when I do, I know we shall all quaff a cold one in her memory. I miss everything about her, from her wind-swept hair down to her cowgirl boots. Mary, you have literally been swept away from us but you shall live on in our memories. Adios, amiga. —Ken Sanders, owner, Ken Sanders Rare Books

Like she extended the trip, deciding to stay a few months longer, writing shoreside and posting unexpected pops of pink on her social media accounts from walks on the beach. That’s what I tell myself when the grief of reality is too hard to process. We walked nearly every week, seven miles round trip up City Creek Canyon, with Mary rattling off little known facts about the New World warbler, A.A. Milne’s early literary career and the similarities between making Mezcal and barbacoa. She knew everything — everything—about everything and was warm, clever, cynical, earnest. She made you think and laugh and embraced you like a dear friend, whether she had known you years or hours. Mary jangled, just like the stacked silver bracelets and rings that became, along with her tousled hair and colorful cowboy boots, her trademark. I fell in love with her immediately, working alongside her at the magazine, perpetually wowed by her warmth, humor and endless knowledge. Over the past decade, she became one of my closest friends, though “friend” doesn’t really capture the depth of a relationship with a woman like Mary. I still find myself writing lists in my mind of things I want to share with her over bottles of rose bubbles when she gets back from the coast. Much like her fashion sense, Mary made Salt Lake a more vibrant and exciting place. Her presence left an undeniable mark on the state’s food and drink culture, in the arts and on the many people she worked with, drank with, and laughed with. I will forever miss her and forever be grateful she was my friend. —Marcie Young Cancio, former Salt Lake magazine editor

‘PINK-CLAD BEDAZZLED SPITFIRE’ Mary Malouf gleefully introduced herself to me 20 years or so ago following a nerve wracking DABC liquor commission hearing wherein my restaurant was granted the first license

to serve alcohol in formerly dry Boulder, Utah. She was overjoyed, ebullient and conspiratorial. The meeting had the quality of love at first sight. We became something significant to each other almost immediately, and shortly thereafter she asked me to officiate the wedding of she and her beloved Glen. To say my friendship with Mary changed my life is the truth, and don’t all true loves do that for us? My grief and sorrow at Mary’s sudden departure from this realm is deep and matched only by the intense gratitude that I got to be close to such a light. Mary inspired, informed, mentored, delighted and illuminated. Like everyone who had the experience of being loved by that brilliant, pink-clad bedazzled spitfire, I will miss her terribly, xoxomm —Blake Spalding (she/her), owner, Hell’s Backbone Grill

RED ROCK MEMORIES Big beautiful you! So smart, so loud, so wonderfully bold. Thank you for including us in so much. Our restaurant is so far away from Salt Lake City, and you always made us feel so much a part of things. You were such an ally. So inclusive and protective and championing! Thank you for always giving Blake and I the royal treatment of laughter and champagne and your golden-pink vibrations of fabulousness. I loved visiting the little house you shared with Glen, the cowboy boots on the shelf over the stairs. Now, I arrange mine like that, too. The summer after Glen died, at Francis Fecteau’s wonderful wine camp, we stayed together in hotel rooms. Vines you and Glen planted, we, too, were tending. Grapes your feet crushed with Glen on the last trip, we got to taste as wine on this trip. You carried Glen’s eyeglasses, and losing them meant the grief might unspool you, away from us, toward him. Glen’s glasses kept you here. We protected them fiercely. Thank you for sharing the fragility and the wholeness of your love with me. Red rock memories of you in our

restaurant, you and Glen, you and Anna. Your Daddy. The monks. Your cat on a leash. But now I’ve lost my eyeglasses, and now there’s a Marysized hole in my heart, and the missing is like a great wave. I will miss you with everything in me. The memories I have hold you in Boulder, xoxomm —Jen Castle, owner, Hell’s Backbone Grill

A DAIQUIRI… OR FIVE Like so many across the land, Water Witch lost a guiding beacon in Mary Malouf. We will dearly miss her cantankerous wit, her impeccable palate and her uncanny B.S. meter. ’Til we meet again! With love, xoxomm —Sean Neves, Scott Gardner and Matt Pfohl, owners, Water Witch

MARY’S EMAIL AND A GIFT “I sent you a gift….in case you wonder where it’s from. XXOOMM” She was gone before I could answer. I had indeed received a puzzling parcel from Texas with no indication of who had sent it. The thought that it might be from Mary never occurred to me. I have the contents beside me now: A vintage postcard of The Bell Memorial with the inscription: “Enjoy!” Handwritten, but not signed, a sticker from the Webb Gallery in Waxahachie, Texas, a second sticker saying, “Love Everyone” And a little plastic Ziplock bag with a silver chain and tiny, tiny silver heart. The necklace’s bag has a black felt marker inscription with the words: 18” F***. Then I saw in the tiniest-ever letters the same word inscribed on the heart. Now the gift is a memorial—a Bell Memorial to the invention of the telephone with the message from Texas and Mary saying, “Enjoy” and “Love everyone.” —Jann Haworth, artist

HI! FROM CHARLIE! My dad worked with Mary’s husband, Glen Warchol, at The Salt Lake Tribune, and it got us into his wife’s inner-circle. I was 3 years old when I first toddled

through the red door at their house on Reed Street. It would lead to a 13-year friendship through our hostess’ best and worst times. New Years Eve, 2017 was the last time I got to see the dynamic duo of Glen and Mary together. Of course everyone loved Glen and Mary for different reasons, but after Glen died in 2018, the things we loved about Mary were even more apparent. She struggled with Glen’s loss, but her friends and family were there for her. She had such an influence on Salt Lake, one I didn’t understand when I was younger, even though I knew going out to eat with her was always a big to-do. I loved that she always asked me what I thought about the food. Or about anything. She always asked what I thought about everything. Mary will be remembered from boardrooms and bar stools across the world. I like to think she was the same in both spaces, personally. Now I’m just scared we will never see another person who comes near the woman Mary was. What I do know: thanks to her, I have made friendships that will last a lifetime. —Charlie Gehrke, 16, High school student and Gentlman’s Gentleman

FOR THE LOVE OF COMMUNITY As an immigrant, restaurateur, manufacturer and caterer residing in the state of Utah, I have had my highs and lows, successes and failures. I have also experienced the kind of support from clients, friends, government and community you cannot give unless you are Mary Brown Malouf, Mary was a one-of-a-kind soul so aware of how the industry works, with no personal agenda, but happy to patiently support, suggest and coach. She took it upon herself to help us groom our own business, without anything in return but love and respect. Through her words and support she was a great representation for our state.

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I was extremely lucky to have crossed her path, and the food industry in Utah should be so proud to have known the one and only Mary Brown Malouf. —Jorge Fierro, president, Rico Brand

RENAISSANCE MARY Mary Brown Malouf, graduated with degrees from the University of Texas with a major in Latin and minor in Art History. Her interests were in the following; food, dining, folk art, wine and her special skills were food styling for photos. In no particular order, Mary owned a catering company, conceived and executed marketing catalogues for Central Market in Texas, wrote about cuisine and edited for D magazine in Dallas and eventually for The Salt Lake Tribune. Back in 2007, we found ourselves searching for a great food writer. Mary came highly recommended and she quickly became

our editor, juggling lots of balls while keeping a steady eye on the growing and adventurous Utah food scene. Smart, witty, sophisticated in a boho way, Mary was a student of the culture she lived in. Texas, California, Utah... it did not matter! She became part of every place. We will miss her feistiness, her empathy for the struggles of the small business owner, her curiosity about her world, her ability to make a magazine for a community. We will continue finding ways to showcase Utah at its best knowing she would want that from us for our readers and friends. —Margaret Mary Shuff, publisher, Salt Lake magazine

MARGARITAS WITH MARY What does one write about Mary? I could list her many contributions. Instead I offer a peek into Mary, my friend who is greatly missed. Nothing brightened my day more than Susan,

our manager, coming through the kitchen informing me Mary and Anna were there for a Mother-daughter dinner. Or the phone call from Mary to make a reservation for her family as Daddy was up from Texas on a visit and she couldn’t wait to bring him. Most nights I would be invited to sit with them, share in wonderful conversation and a few margaritas. Mary and I had many of those conversations. Mary loved Utah and had one of the biggest hearts I have ever known. —Matthew Lake, chef and owner, Alamexo

and a weapon-sized bracelets. Mary came here because she loved a man, but she eventually came to love us too. A complicated love in which she dared us to be bigger, bolder, more inventive. But she also called our attention to the things we should love more about our community just the way it is. She intimidated restaurateurs, then made them her friends. She hosted daring dinner parties. She mentored our children, paying special attention to lost artists and tortured adolescents. She made judgments about the best and worst of Utah food and style and culture. And we listened. And then we lost her as suddenly and improbably as she arrived, carried away by an ocean wave. So sudden. So unpredictable. We are still so stunned. But we are forever changed by having known her. —Vicki Varela, managing director, Utah Office of Tourism

ROARING IN Mary Malouf came roaring into Salt Lake in 2007 like a rogue wave crashing improbably onto our dry desert. Big. Bold. Unpredictable. What would she make of us and our nascent foodie and distillery destinations? And what to make of her? Pink lace dress, turquoise cowboy boots, a cacophony of necklaces

Susan Niedwick, CFP® Senior Wealth Management Advisor

Susan@Cutler.com

LET’S REALIZE THE POSSIBILITIES TOGETHER SERVING FAMILIES AND BUSINESSES

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Salt Lake City // Olympus Cove

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1425 E Kensington Ave 4 BD / 4 BA / 3,542 SF Offered at $1,250,000

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1209 E Laird Ave 3 BD / 2 BA / 2,090 SF Offered at $690,000

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Taylorsville

1725 E Downington Ave 3 BD / 2 BA / 2,220 SF Offered at $600,000

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Salt Lake City

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P E O P L E

O U T D O O R S

PHOTO KAITLYN CHRISTY

T R A V E L

BREAKFAST FOR DESSERT BY K AITLYN CHRIST Y

W N E R A N D PA S T R Y C H E F Irie Cao Omori said she initially had her extra fluffy pancakes on the menu when Doki Doki first opened three years ago, but the trend hadn’t taken off yet. Going with her gut, she brought them back in the fall of 2020, and they’ve been a hit ever since. The secret? Perfectly and intensively whipped eggwhites. They’re almost too cute to eat, but after one bite, there’s no stopping. 249 E. 400 South, SLC, 385-229-4339, dokidessert.com

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ST Y LE

MASK METAMORPHOSIS: Embrace the New Norm BY K AITLYN CHRIST Y

N T H E W A K E of the Covid-19 pandemic, face masks went

from being something you’d see in an apocalyptic movie to everyday fashion. A creative collaboration between Farasha, a fashion consulting company, and MANICPROJECT, a Salt Lake City photographer, aimed to shine a bright light on the unknowns of COVID-19. Their message? This is a time of renewal. A moment to reset. An

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opportunity to listen and learn. To be better humans. To be humble. To be environmentally responsible. To make more socially conscious decisions. To support our communities and one another. To stand up for what is right. To show more empathy. To be kinder. To redefine purpose. To be more present. And to live in the moment. And because we’re all sporting masks, why not be fashionable? They’ve crafted stunning high-fashion face coverings to help bring individuality and style to the world. Because while wearing a mask is a selfless way to keep others and yourself safe, it could also be a way to flaunt yourself. Basically, if you must wear a mask, wear it well. Find out more at farashastyle.com.

PHOTOS MANICPROJECT

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The Canyon art installation by Gordon Huether

WE’RE READY TO FLY WHEN YOU ARE. Now that the new Salt Lake City International Airport is open, there’s a lot for you to enjoy — the views, the technology, the efficiency, the variety of shops and restaurants. And one of the things we think you’ll also like is our commitment to your safety — employing the absolute best practices in sanitization throughout the airport. As the world re-opens to travel, it’s not going to be the same. But when it comes to flying in and out of The New SLC, we think it will be even better.

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SPORT

HOLE IN ONE A perfect pandemic-friendly hobby, even for skeptics BY JOSH PETERSEN

just evoked images of stuffy businessmen in visors, and it is still officially the most boring sport to watch on TV. But I have to admit that it’s the perfect socially-distanced sport. A way to be outside, completely solo or with a small group of friends, golf is the rare sport where six feet of distance is an asset. Plus, when you get sick of hiking, scenic courses are an ideal way to take in a Utah spring, from the sweeping vistas of Park City to southern Utah’s dramatic red rocks. Courses are taking extra precautions to reduce COVID-19 risks, from sanitizing on-course ball washers to disinfected carts. Personally, I’m most intrigued by something called GolfBoards, a mash-up of singlerider motorized scooters and golf carts that are ready to ride at several Utah courses. As the weather warms up, courses in northern Utah are reopening or expanding their hours, while locations down south are open all year.

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RED LEDGES’ TEE BOX

PHOTOS COURTESY RED LEDGES

O M E , G O L F H A S always

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LOST SA LT L A K E

PHOTO USED BY PERMISSION, UTAH STATE HISTORICAL SOCIETY

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WHAT SALT LAKE LOST Social media connects twentysomethings to a city they never knew BY JOSH PETERSEN

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H E P H O T O S A R E of familiar places, but the details are practically unrecognizable. Miles of streetcar tracks run through downtown Salt Lake City. Is that an amusement park in Sugar House? And why are there crowds of finely dressed people walking in the middle of Main Street—not on a Conference Weekend, mind you, just a regular day? Snapshots of life in early 20th century Salt Lake City are gaining new life online, notably in a popular Twitter thread, mournfully titled “What Salt Lake Lost,” and the Instagram account Old Salt Lake, that’s profile reads: “Salt Lake is dope—and so is its history.” The audience enjoying these dope images is mostly millennials and zoomers decades removed from this lost Salt Lake. As a generation comes of age in an almost entirely new city, many are looking to the past and wondering what went wrong. This version of Salt Lake had what many young urbanites now value: easily accessible public transportation, walkable streets, local businesses (open late), and

PHOTO (OPPOSITE PAGE): RIDERS AT THE MOTORCYCLE RACE TRACK ON FIELD DAY AT THE WANDAMERE RESORT, 1912. PHOTOS (CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT): WOMEN RELAX AT WHAT IS BELIEVED TO BE SALTAIR BEACH, DATE UNKNOWN MAIN STREET, INCLUDING THE OWL DRUG CO., WILSON HOTEL AND WALKER BANK, 1943 PHOTOS USED BY PERMISSION, UTAH STATE HISTORICAL SOCIETY

PEDESTRIANS WALK PAST DARLING STORES ON MAIN STREET, 1951 AN OLDSMOBILE PARKED AT THE BASE OF ANDERSON TOWER, WHICH WAS RAZED IN 1932, ON A STREET, 1919 MAIN STREET, INCLUDING BENNETT’S PAINT, WALGREEN DRUGS, CONTINENTAL BANK AND TRUST COMPANY AND WILSON HOTEL, 1938 A TRAIN CAR GOING UP EMIGRATION CANYON, 1909

distinctive architecture. The Twitter thread and Instagram feeds often play before-and-after with the images, with side by side comparisons that demonstrate what’s changed in specific neighborhoods. It’s fun but also a little wistful. In the last 100 years, Salt Lake City’s streets and neighborhoods have transformed. And, in many cases, dull-high rises have sprung up alongside cookie-cutter condo towers and chain restaurants and parking garages squat where once stately, architecturally significant buildings stood.

These images, rediscovered by a new generation, raise questions about what we want our city to be. They especially resonate as Salt Lake works through another period of transition. Rapid population increases and new economic opportunities promise progress, but urban growing pains also threaten much of what makes our city unique. As more changes loom, this curation of culture feels like both an elegy and a call to action. Find more images @olymasic on Twitter and @oldsaltlake on Instagram.

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A RT

(BELOW) Mountain with Crepe Cake, enamel and acrylic on canvas by Yujin Kang; (RIGHT) By Annelise Duque

LOCK DOWN RESIDENCE Local artists find safe haven at UMOCA BY JOSH PETERSEN

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C L O U D M A D E U P of the cloud — a mass of desktop files shaped to resemble non-digital fluffy formations. A surreal mountain landscape that turns into a layered crepe cake. A playful homage to 1950s garden magazines. These are just some of the inventive pieces by the current Artists in Residence at the Utah Museum of Contemporary Art. Since 2013, UMOCA’s Artist in Residence program has provided a crucial support system for local artists. Let’s face it: it’s not easy to survive as an artist in Utah. Yes, there’s plenty of local interest in the arts, but there are plenty of obstacles, too. It is still a relatively small community that doesn’t always have established networks for creators. The program provides artists studio space, workshops with other professionals and the opportunity to showcase their work in a dedicated gallery space at UMOCA. Basically, the goal is to build a strong community and keep great artists in the state. The program’s current roster highlights the wide-ranging diversity of local artists. All of the residents are Utah-based, but their backgrounds, styles and mediums are all distinctive. The Utah art world is wide enough to include politically provocative ceramics from Houston native Horacio Rodriguez and abstract paintings by the Korean artist Yujin Kang, and, as the entire industry reels from the coronavirus pandemic, UMOCA is setting the foundation that allows these creatives to thrive.

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FOODIE

LOST IN THE SAUCE Red sauce makes a comforting comeback BY JOSH PETERSEN

TA H M AY N O T have a

signature pizza style—or a real stake in the endless sauce vs. gravy debate that rages on back East—but that doesn’t mean there aren’t places to get mouthwatering Italian-American cuisine. Salt Lake has its share of Italian fine dining, from acclaimed favorites like Valter’s to new kids on the block like La Trattoria di Francesco, but that’s not what we’re talking about here. These are the “red-sauce” establishments: think redcheckered tablecloths set with simple, classic dishes. The term can be pejorative, but it doesn’t have to be. Done right, these mom-and-pop eateries serve the best versions of the basics in a friendly setting—comfort food in every sense of the word.

Plenty of Utah neighborhoods have longrunning favorite spots, like SIRAGUSA’S in Taylorsville. More recent openings confirm that red-sauce is rising in Utah. OSTERIA AMORE 224 S. 1300 East, SLC osteriaamore.com / 385-270-5606 SICILIA MIA 4536 S. Highland Dr., SLC siciliamiautah.com / 801-274-0223 CELESTE RISTORANTE 5468 S. 900 East, Murray celesteristorante.com / 801-290-2913

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MARCELLA HAZAN’S RED SAUCE RECIPE Marcella Hazan, who changed the way we cook Italian food, published The Classic Italian Cook Book (1973), More Classic Italian Cooking (1978) and, collected in one volume, Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking, in 1992. Her 1997 book Marcella Cucina won the James Beard Foundation Book Award for Best Mediterranean Cookbook and the Julia Child Award for Best International Cookbook the following year. Craig Claiborne once said of Hazan’s work: “No one has ever done more to spread the gospel of pure Italian cookery in America.”—MBM

INGREDIENTS: 2 cups tomatoes, in addition to their juices (for example, a 28-ounce can of San Marzano whole peeled tomatoes) 5 tablespoons butter 1 onion, peeled and cut in half Salt DIRECTIONS: Combine the tomatoes, their juices, the butter and the onion halves in a saucepan. Add a pinch or two of salt. Place over medium heat and bring to a simmer. Cook, uncovered, for about 45 minutes. Stir occasionally, mashing any large pieces of tomato with a spoon. Add salt as needed. Discard the onion before tossing the sauce with pasta. This recipe makes enough sauce for a pound of pasta.

I T T U R N S O U T there’s no such thing as Italian cuisine—not with 20 diverse regions in the country and a population of almost 60 million. Northern Italy has a whole different set of influences than Southern Italy, and Sunday gravy is simply not the national dish. Here’s a look at some of Italy’s most prominent regions—and a typical dish from each.—MBM

REGION: EMILIA-ROMAGNA WHERE IT IS: North central WHAT IT IS KNOWN FOR: Known as “Italy’s food basket,” this is foodie heaven, with bragging rights for prosciutto, mortadella, ParmigianoReggiano cheese and Balsamic vinegar. Many consider this region to offer “classic Italian” dishes. TYPICAL DISH: Bolognese sauce, tortellini

REGION: CAMPANIA

REGION: PIEDMONT

WHERE IT IS: Southeast coast WHAT IT IS KNOWN FOR: This ancient land was settled by the Greeks and is the site of Mount Vesuvius and Pompei; its fertile volcanic soil produces bountiful vegetables like the famous San Marzano tomatoes, figs and lemons. This is where Naples is, the hallowed birthplace of pizza. TYPICAL DISH: Pizza, buffalo mozzarella

WHERE IT IS: Northwest corner WHAT IT IS KNOWN FOR: This region—and its white truffles—has somewhat elegant cuisine, lovely wines like Barolo and Barbaresco, and makes great chocolate desserts. TYPICAL DISH: “Warm dip” (Bagna caôda) made by slowly cooking chopped garlic with oil and butter, anchovies, peeled walnuts and served with Jerusalem artichoke, endive, sweet pepper and onion in a terracotta pot.

REGION: LOMBARDY WHERE IT IS: North central WHAT IT IS KNOWN FOR: Italy’s industrial region and its fashion capital, Milan favors risottos and polenta, veal, beef, butter, cow’s milk cheese and freshwater fish. TYPICAL DISH: Risotto, osso bucco

REGION: SICILY WHERE IT IS: Island off the southwest coast WHAT IT IS KNOWN FOR: The largest island in the Mediterranean, Sicily hearkens back 10,000 years before Don Corleone lived there. Its food has Greek, Arab, Spanish and French influences and favors

antipasti, pasta and rice dishes, and stuffed and skewered meat. It is also known for its candied fruits and marzipan. TYPICAL DISH: Caponata, veal Marsala, pasta with sardines

REGION: TUSCANY WHERE IT IS: North central coast WHAT IT IS KNOWN FOR: This is one of Italy’s art and cultural treasures, highlighted by Florence, home of Michelangelo, Leonardo Da Vinci, the Medicis. Its food has been described as the “art of understatement” with spices like thyme and fennel, and is well known for its ravioli, tortellini and fish and seafood. Not to mention Chianti, Dr. Lecter’s favorite. TYPICAL DISH: Pecorino cheese, steak alla fiorentina, panzanella (bread salad to you)

MAR CH /AP R I L 2021

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STATEWATCH

WHAT’S KEEPING UTAH’S LIGHTS ON? Little seems capable of upending Utah’s fossil fuel status quo BY TONY GILL

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PHOTO ADOBE STOCK/JEANINE MILLER

L I P A S W I T C H , and the lights come on. It seems simple and innocuous, and for many, it’s where the story begins and ends. But energy in Utah is anything but simple. Every phone charged, every movie streamed and every room illuminated comes with a cost. In the Beehive State, more than in most places, that’s paid in carbon. Utah generates 64% of its electricity by burning coal. That proportion has declined substantially since 2001 (94%) but it still dwarfs the national figure of 23%. Utah has the worst average air quality index ranking of any state and is economically vulnerable as climate change affects snow conditions. A coordinated, concerted effort between residents, local industry and the state government to back cleaner electricity generation is needed, but that’s not what’s occurring. This reality came into acute focus in October 2020 when the Utah Public Service Commission (PSC) ruled Utah’s monopoly electricity provider Rocky Mountain Power could reduce the amount it pays customers for electricity produced by residential solar by roughly 40% from 9.2 cents per kilowatt-hour (kWh) to 5.969 cents/ kWh in the summer and 5.639 cents/kWh in the winter. The decision was a blow to the residential solar industry in Utah. And while the rate reduction was sold as a compromise between RMP’s original low ball valuation for residential solar of 1.5 cents/kWh and the national average of 22.6 cents/kWh, according Vote Solar, a non-profit advocacy group, there is a huge gap. The chasm in estimates and the subsequent ruling doesn’t represent reality. “It looks like a compromise, but RMP got what they wanted in hindering the economic viability of residential solar. Their initial figure was a lowball that effectively moved the goalposts.,” said an engineering consultant who has worked extensively with Berkshire Hathaway Energy, who spoke to us on the condition of anonymity. RMP is a subsidiary of Berkshire.

RMP has been chipping away at residential solar for some time. Prior to 2017, residential solar customers who sent excess power back to the grid were compensated with what’s called net metering, which meant the amount of power generated by customers was paid back to the homeowner, ostensibly paying solar customers the retail rate for energy they produce. RMP argued that the rate wasn’t sustainable because those customers didn’t have to pay for transmission and energy storage, so they pursued the reduced “export credit” of 9.2 cents/kWh for new solar customers as part of a transition program. The change diminished the benefit of new home solar, and installations slowed from more than 12,000 in 2017 to about 3,500 last year. RMP’s efforts were aimed at avoiding a death spiral for coal production. If more customers are moving to solar, this would, in turn, raise rates for coal, which, in turn, would further drive more customers towards solar. RMP’s monopoly was threatened by a market-based solution available to notoriously frugal customers in a state with more than 300 sunny days per year, so they tipped the scales. Centralized utility monopolies have long been considered prudent because they eliminate overlapping infrastructure—RMP owns all the transmission lines, substations, etc.—but credible, de-centralized competition, like solar, is a threat. RMP managed to set a rate to profit off power generated by residential solar customers. Utah’s energy monopoly is proving resistant to competitive forces threatening coal, but even when market forces encourage the utility to stray from the status quo, politics can get in the way. RMP is a division of Pacificorp, which runs the Naughton coal-fired power plant in Kemmerer, Wyo., that supplies some electricity to Salt Lake City. Pacificorp’s own 2019 Integrated Resource Plan (IRP) called for the early retirement of two Naughton units within six years, converting one unit to natural gas. Natural gas produces less carbon than coal and it’s more cost-effective. State and local lawmakers are pushing back to prop up the local coal industry against the wishes of both the utility and consumers. “What we’re hearing are disingenuous solutions,” says Noah Miterko, Policy Associate for the Healthy Environment Alliance of Utah (HEAL). “There are valid concerns about an area’s tax base and peoples’ employment, but saying these jobs are going to be around long term isn’t true. The utility companies and the mining companies know it’s a lie. They’ll keep the jobs around as long as it’s profitable, then declare bankruptcy, give bonuses to the executives and sell the companies off for parts.” Keeping the Naughton plant operating is just kicking the issue down the road, and continuing to generate power by burning coal will ultimately cost consumers in cash on their energy bills and via environmental calamity. In a way, it’s surprising to see a deeply conservative area pushing for government intervention to prop up a struggling business, and the approach fails to confront a changing reality with solutions that will help the community in the long run. “The inevitable is coming to a head a few years ahead of schedule. We need to reinvest in these communities economically. It’s not an apples-to-apples comparison, but we’re going to see the same kinds of issues in Carbon and Emery County in Utah eventually, and we

need to be ready with solutions,” says Miterko. But what’s to be done? When a market-based solution threatens the utility, they push back on customers. When the market pushes a utility away from coal towards a more efficient—though still fossil-fuel based—solution, legislatures enter the fray to disrupt adaptation. The climate crisis isn’t waiting on a benevolent form of capitalism to rise, nor is it waiting on an altruistic bureaucracy to act. “The new export credit rates are tilted in the utility’s favor,” says the engineering consultant. “Unless consumers have the storage capacity to directly use the power they are creating, consumers are essentially producing electricity for RMP to sell for profit.” Miterko was less pessimistic, suggesting homeowners talk to solar

Subsidies are designed to help gain a foothold, not prop up an industry indefinitely,” —NOAH MITERKO, POLICY ASSOCIATE FOR THE HEALTHY ENVIRONMENT ALLIANCE OF UTAH suppliers to assess if residential production can work for them. He says the faster we can normalize renewables, the better. While natural gas is preferable to coal, it’s still fossil-fueled based energy. Investing heavily in related infrastructure will lead to the same discussions we’re now having about coal several years down the line. “Berkshire and RMP aren’t driving change,” explains the engineering consultant. “Public utility companies have a lot invested in their existing infrastructure, so they aren’t incentivized to move agreesively to green energy any time before it naturally becomes more cost-effective option.” Essentially, the players are all hedging their bets, but meanwhile, time on the carbon clock is ticking. Miterko concurs: “It’s the business-as-usual plan. Solar and wind are becoming cheaper and more attractive but the transition will be too late for some of our concerns.” Solar subsidies are scheduled to phase out over the next five to 10 years, reducing incentive. The subsidies baked into the fossil fuel industry since its inception have never gone away. “Subsidies are designed to help gain a foothold, not prop up an industry indefinitely,” Miterko says. If anything in Utah will have an effect, there is action regarding electricity production happening primarily at the municipal level. The 2019 Community Renewable Energy Act (H.B. 411) provided cities with the mechanisms to get to net-100 percent of electric energy from renewable resources by 2030. The Salt Lake City and Park City Councils were early adopters, and by the end of 2019, 24 municipalities comprising nearly one million RMP customers had committed to paying the cost of pivoting to renewable energy sources and removing fossil fuels from their portfolio. That level of participation and commitment can compel a utility—even one that’s a monopoly—to change the way they’re investing.

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OU TDOORS

DIRT BAGGERS DONE GOOD How the Salt Lake Climbers Alliance spearheaded Little Cottonwood Canyon’s newest recreational resource BY MELISSA FIELDS

H I S I S M Y FAV O R I T E part of the trail,” muses Julia Geisler,

executive director of the Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), as she steps over a series of large, flat granite stones, grouted with smaller versions of the same. The trail is the Alpenbock Loop, a new hiking, snowshoeing and climbing wall-access trail on the north side of the mouth of Little Cottonwood Canyon. With its sections of cobble-like paths and tidy stone staircases, reminiscent of stone masonry walkways you’d find in a centuries-old English garden, sections of this trail do indeed have has an almost artistic quality. And then there’s the breathtaking scenery: soaring granite walls and long views both up the canyon and into the Salt Lake Valley. But this section of the canyon wasn’t always so idyllic. Just a few years ago, the land where the Alpenbock Loop and its accompanying Grit Mill parking area are now located was marred by a spiderweb of social trails (paths worn into the land where no one ever

Utah Climbing’s Non-Club

THE ALPENBOCK CLUB, CIRCA 1961 (FROM RIGHT TO LEFT): RICH REAM (THE CLUB’S UNOFFICIAL ADVISOR/MENTOR), TED WILSON, CURT HAWKINS, STAN FERGUSON, DICK REAM, RICK REESE, DICK WALLIN, BOB IRVINE, COURT RICHARDS AND GARY JONES. KNEELING IN FRONT: DAVE WOOD (LEFT) AND MILT HOKANSON.

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“Membership was informal as hell,” says Ted Wilson, describing how he and a group of “spirited first ascensionists,” most of whom attended Olympus High School, formed the Alpenbock Club in 1959. “We never organized, like getting a 501C3 or anything like that. At first, we did vote on new members but then we laughed at that and when someone wanted to join, we’d just sit around and ask each other ‘is he a good guy?’” Wilson says the

club formed when he and his friends “got tired of climbing the same ten to twelve routes in Big Cottonwood” and started focusing on the base of Little Cottonwood. Other members include Rick Reese, Bob Irvine, Ralph Tingey, Jim Gaddis and Bob Stout. Wilson, in fact, made the first recorded ascent in Little Cottonwood Canyon in 1961, a route rated 5.6 that he called Chickenhead Holiday. The Alpenbock Club has never disbanded.

PHOTO (ABOVE) ANDREW BURR

SLCA VOLUNTEERS AND CONTRACTED STAFF BUILDING THE ALPENBOCK LOOP TRAIL

takes the same route twice) and abandoned industrial detritus. That was until the SLCA figured out a way to accomplish the goals of a few by creating a resource for many. The granite walls rising above the Alpenbock Loop first caught the attention of local climbers back in the late 1950s. This scrappy band of high schoolaged adventurers—including former Salt Lake City Mayor Ted Wilson—eked out some of the Wasatch Range’s first climbing routes. The Alpenbock Club and their friends had the Little Cottonwood climbing

walls, known as crags in climber-speak, almost exclusively to themselves until the early 1990s. Then, the evolution of climbing gear opened the sport up to more than just the über-dedicated and more routes were developed both in Little Cottonwood and several other locales throughout Utah. By the early aughts, dirt baggers—an autobiographical moniker for climbers who chuck it all to climb, often living out of their car or van—from around the world were descending on Utah to climb, many lured by the reputation of the granite

routes in Little Cottonwood. Historically and generally speaking, crags are developed without foresight as to how climbers will get to them. And so, because they carry heavy packs filled with ropes, harnesses, and other climbing gear, the path or approach to a crag is usually a straight line with little regarding for topography and plant life. Over time, the paths climbers beat to a crag can cause irreparable scarring, erosion and unnecessary danger—the steep and loose social trails leading to the Little Cottonwood crags were more challenging than the climbing routes they accessed. “The network of social trails at Little Cottonwood, not to mention the damage that was occurring to the ecosystem and watershed, was not sustainable,” said Cathy Kahlow, the now-retired U.S. Forest Service’s Salt Lake District ranger from 2008 to 2016. The SLCA was formed in 2002, and in 2011, when Geisler became its first and only paid staff member, Kahlow approached her about solving the overuse problems in Little Cottonwood. “SLCA was founded on the mission of keeping climbing areas open by forming relationships with landowners where climbing areas are located and being good stewards of the lands where crags are,” Geisler says. “The popularity of climbing was really beginning to explode then, and so we knew we needed to do something in Little Cottonwood before that area was loved to death.” It was clear early on that the access to the crags in Little Cottonwood would

EVERYONE’S GOING UP If it seems to you like everyone’s climbing these days, either in the gym or outside, it’s no wonder. According to the American Alpine Club, in 2018 there were 7.7 million climbers in the U.S.; not an insignificant number when you consider in the same year, 10.3 million Americans considered themselves a skier or snowboarder. With more than a dozen climbing gyms and world-class climbing areas peppered throughout the state, Utah is a bona fide destination for the sport. In fact, when sport climbing makes its Olympic debut in Tokyo this July, Utah native Nathaniel Coleman will be a Team USA member to watch.

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OU TDOORS

JULIA GEISLER OF SLCA CLIMBING A ROUTE AT THE COFFIN IN LITTLE COTTONWOOD CANYON

WHEN YOU GO The Alpenbock Loop can be accessed from two points: from the west at the Little Cottonwood Canyon Park ‘N Ride lot or from the east via the Grit Mill parking lot and Grit Mill connector trail. The route begins relatively flat from either direction before meandering up the mountainside over rock-stair switchbacks and through dense stands of Gambel oak. At the top of the loop, signed climbing access spur trails lead north up to world-famous crags ostensibly named The Coffin, The Egg and Bong Eater. (Referring to a piece of climbing gear, not something more nefarious.) Hikers should stay on the main Alpenbock Trail, as rockfall is possible at the base of the crags from those climbing above. The connector trail and lower part of the loop pass by the Cabbage Patch and Secret Garden, popular bouldering areas between the trail and the canyon road. Please note: the Alpenbock Trail is within the watershed, so dogs are not allowed.

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require professional planning and major funding, which meant a multi-year effort in a typical federal government timeline. “It takes a long time and many people to enact any kind of change on federal lands,” Kahlow confirmed. This is particularly true in regard to climbing, which is not a traditionally recognized use on Forest Service lands in the same way activities like hiking, picnicking, fishing and even skiing are. So, Geisler began pounding the pavement. Some of the organizations and individuals she hit up to help get the Alpenbock Project done include Trails Utah, the Cottonwood Canyons Foundation, the Mountain Accord (now the Central Wasatch Commission), Wasatch Legacy Project, Snowbird, Alta, REI and others. The physical part of the project finally kicked off in 2014 with the removal of the old poultry grit mill. It took three years of fundraising

before replacement of the treacherous social trails could begin in 2017. The Alpenbock Loop and Grit Mill connector trails were completed in late 2018. And the project’s last piece, the 34-stall parking lot and restroom, was completed in November 2020. To date, the Alpenbock Loop Trail is the largest climbing access trail project completed on U.S. Forest Service lands in the nation. It was a major catalyst in the Uinta-Wasatch-Cache National Forest’s current work in creating a rock climbing management plan. And, after cutting its teeth on this project, the SLCA is now focusing on more than just trails. They launched the Wasatch Anchor Replacement Initiative, a campaign to replace bolts and anchors on climbing routes throughout the state, some of which date to the Alpenbock Club’s active era. Why should non-climbers care about the Alpenbock Loop Project? First, it’s an illustrative and refreshing example of how the public sector and private interests can work together for the benefit of many. Second, it is an important piece in a greater vision for potential connectivity to other trails in that area, including the Bonneville Shoreline Trail and Temple Quarry Trail (As it is now, this trail is not really a significant contribution to the Wasatch Mountain’s vast anthology of bucket-list trails—at just a mile-and-a-half long, most dedicated hikers will find it way too short.) Moreover, it is one more place where, during these tough times, families can get outside and immerse themselves in the healing power of nature. And maybe even meet their first dirt bagger along the way.

PHOTO JOHN VICKERS

THE HIVE

EXPLORE

HISTORIC PARK CITY The Trailhead to Your Mountain Town Adventure Historic Park City is the heart and soul of our mountain town and the epicenter of all that is fun. Home to unique restaurants, shops, galleries and businesses, we invite you for a taste of Historic Park City and encourage you to explore all we have to offer.

Experiences | Galleries | Boutiques & Specialty Shops | Bars & Restaurants historicparkcityutah.com

PARK CITY O N

T H E

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DRESSED FOR SUCCESS BY JOSH PETERSEN

I G H T N O W , W E ’ R E focused on filling people’s homes

with happiness and joy,” says Beth Ann Shepherd, principal of Dressed Design. As a designer, Shepherd has brought her idiosyncratic style to the homes of high-profile clients across the country. Now, she is sharing her fresh, joyful design approach with Dressed Design’s new retail location in the heart of Park City. Along with custom furniture, Dressed carries vintage Les Paul guitars, whimsical pieces from local artists and old-school board games, including a Monopoly set made of glass, gold and crystal. “Everyone’s first response is always the same word: wow,” she says. “This store is going to continually evolve.” 692 Main St., Park City, 435-658-9857, dresseddesign.com

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PARK CITY

ARE THE CALIFORNIANS COMING? Has the remote work revolution led an influx of new arrivals in Park City? BY TONY GILL

“ O N E I F T H E Y ’ V E come from land-

locked America, two if they’ve come from the sea! The out of towners are coming! It’s the Texans and the Californians! It’s not just for vacation this time! The proof’s in the license plate, you see,” says the Park City NIMBY. For the sake of journalistic integrity, I’ll clarify I’ve paraphrased rather than directly quoted the sentiment I’m hearing around town. The bias, however, is very real. A particular strain of anti-new arrival anxiety is spreading, and like most things grounded in some form of originalism, it’s full of arguments made in bad faith. Park City, you see, is home to many born and bred Parkites, but it’s more and more populated by transplants who came in search of snow and mountains. The true OGs have a valid axe to grind—I moved here 14 years ago and am still considered a precocious new arrival by some—but most of us sound frighteningly hypocritical for calling out people doing exactly what we did. Is it even happening, though? Has the ongoing coronavirus pandemic and the subsequent work-from-home revolution enabled scores of people to move to Park City in the name of a better lifestyle? Surely, taking a look at school enrollment and real estate trends could shed some light on the situation.

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October school enrollment data from Park City showed there were 61 fewer students enrolled district wide than in 2019. Of the 4,840 students, 137 were new enrollees, not counting kindergarteners enrolling for the first time. “We’re right within that normal sort of standard,” Superintendent Jill Gildea said at a Board of Education Meeting in

How Fast is Utah Growing? Utah’s growth rate over the decade from 2010 to 2019 was the highest in the nation. That trend continued in 2020 with a growth rate of 3.83%, the second highest of any state. The state’s once high fertility rate dropped below the replacement level of 2.1 in 2019 while the population continued to grow, suggesting people were flocking to the Beehive State long before COVID entered the picture.

November. “We didn’t balloon to the size that everybody in the community has been kind of nervous about.” What about exploding real estate prices? Home prices are indeed continuing to skyrocket in Park City, with the average condo price in Snyderville Basin increasing over the past year by 40 percent. Meanwhile, inventory has evaporated. I checked with several real estate agents, however, and received anecdotal shrugs instead of concrete trends. The starkest increase in demand is attributed to buyers of “luxury properties,” which likely would have a lesser effect on overcrowding than less expensive properties. So, are the Californians and Texans really flocking here to take over? People are moving to Park City, but the trend was established long before the pandemic struck. While it’s likely some have seized the opportunity to move, the evidence doesn’t indicate a massive surge of new residents. Park City is an idyllic mountain community a short drive from an urban center with a growing economy. What did we expect? Anxiety about growth is a cottage industry in Park City. Be nice to the new Parkites. You were probably once one of them.

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MOTORIZATION

PARK CITY

WHERE CAN YOU GET A DRINK AROUND HERE? Après reservations, outdoor bars and hamster globes? BY TONY GILL

BONEYARD’S WINE DIVE

THE UMBRELLA BAR

The Wine Dive half of the Boneyard is taking online reservations for the winos, I mean aficionados, who want to sample from their extensive wine list.

With a big patio, some fire pits, a food truck and the eponymous soft-topped shelter, the Umbrella Bar has shot up the rankings as the après spot in Canyons Village. Even on snowy days, the open-air atmosphere is now a feature, not a bug.

1251 Kearns Blvd., 435-649-0911, boneyardsaloon.com

THE CORNER STORE This classic après spot at Park City Mountain Base has a lively patio with frequent live music, affordable drinks and delicious waffle fries. It’s not uncommon to see off-duty patrollers blowing off some steam here too. 1325 Lowell Ave., 435-645-8666, cornerstorepc.com

3720 N. Sundial Ct., 435-615-3307

NO NAME SALOON & ANNEX Main Street’s flagship watering hole, the No Name Saloon and Annex is taking online reservations to secure a place to drink with its eclectic mash-up of locals and visitors. 447 Main St., 435-649-6667, nonamesaloon.com

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* Reserve Your Glass Taking cues from the ski resorts in town, some bars are implementing reservation systems to limit capacity. Sign up so you can line ‘em up.

* Outdoor Après The great outdoors is still your safest bet for staying healthy during the pandemic. From après to after dinner, there are plenty of open-air places to grab a drink.

* Outside the Box, Inside the Globe Private, outdoor “snow globes” are bringing COVID-safe climate control to sipping on a cocktail. Take shelter with your quaranteam.

BUTCHER’S CHOP HOUSE & BAR

BONEYARD SALOON The Boneyard Saloon has added three private globes to their popular rooftop patio. Each globe can seat up to 10 guests and can be reserved online. 1251 Kearns Blvd., 435-649-0911, boneyardsaloon.com

BUTCHER’S CHOP HOUSE & BAR Butcher’s has three Alpenglobe private globes available for reservation-only that allow for drinking and dining for up to eight people. Each of the globes has six reservations available per evening, which requires a food and beverage minimum starting at $400 for a two-hour session. 751 Lower Main St., 435-647-0040, butcherschophouse.com

PHOTO ADAM FINKLE

F A L L T H E things COVID has taken away, revelry and grabbing a drink with friends ranks admittedly low on the list of priorities. But people in Park City have a rich history of sidling up to the bar. We could deploy the old “drinking town with a skiing problem” descriptor here, but we’ll just say it’s a resilient town with folks who aren’t ready to give up on having a good time. Thankfully, the proprietors of some of our favorite establishments have come up with ways to let us tip a few back in relative safety. We’re on the way to besting this pandemic, but I imagine we could still all use a drink right now.

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PARK CITY

AROUND THE WORLD IN SIX RESTAURANTS Explore cuisine from around the world with a two-day food jaunt right here at home. BY TONY GILL

BAVARIAN PULL APART BREAD FROM GOLDENER HIRCH

DAY 1 - BREAKFAST BRAZIL

THE BRIDGE CAFÉ AND GRILL Just steps away from the Town Lift at Park City Mountain, The Bridge is located right on the actual bridge in Old Town. The Brazilian-inspired menu offers a few twists on the typical breakfast fare, and the Brazuca Omelet is a customizable highlight. 825 Main St., Ste. 201, 435-6585451, thebridgecafeandgrill.com

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DAY 1 - LUNCH THAILAND

THAI SO GOOD The very literally named Thai So Good opened last year with a convenient location in Kimball Junction. Their Khao Soi is a Northern Thai curry noodle soup with chicken, fried onion, pickled cabbage, dried chili and fresh shallots. It’s wonderful. So is the Basil and Chili Stir Fry if you’re looking for a little spice. 1764 Uinta Way, 435-565-6989 thaisogoodkimball.com

PHOTOS: (BAVARIAN PULL APART BREAD) DEER VALLEY RESORT; (THE BRIDGE CAFÉ AND LIFT) VISIT PARK CITY

I R C U M N AV I G AT I N G T H E earth in search of fine cultural fare isn’t in the cards for most of us right now. Air travel is still a little dicey, and few have the navigational skills and the dogged conviction it takes to sail around the world like Greta Thunberg. But if you’re lucky enough to find yourself in Park City, you can enjoy inspired cuisine from across the globe. It’s not all “elevated mountain dishes” highlighted by gamey meats better left in the frontier days around here. We’re taking you around the world in six meals, without having to leave town. Unearthing something from every continent wasn’t in the cards once we realized we couldn’t find any Antarctician cuisine in Park City. Plus, with just two days’ worth of meals to work with, it’s mathematically implausible to hit every corner of the map. But you won’t eat on the same continent twice in a row with the exception of Asia—which is absolutely huge, and we’ll split up that back-to-back affair with East and West Asian entrants. Now let’s get eating— no passport required.

KUCHU SHABU

DAY 2 - LUNCH JAPAN

KUCHU SHABU

THE BRIDGE CAFÉ AND GRILL

DAY 1 - DINNER “OLD EUROPE”

GOLDENER HIRSCH The spirit of the Alps lives at the Goldener Hirsch. This Park City institution mixes Bavarian, Swiss, Austrian and Belgian influences for a taste of European ski culture. Start with some Bavarian Pull Apart Bread and finish with some Schupfnudeln, an Austrian potato noodle with braised mustard greens. 7570 Royal St, 435-649-7770, goldenerhirschinn.com

DAY 2 - BREAKFAST MEXICO

ALBERTO’S Anyone can throw something together and call it a breakfast burrito, but Alberto’s has a full menu of authentic options, all wrapped in a perfect tortilla. I highly recommend the chorizo, egg, potato and cheese burrito with some spicy red sauce. The drive-through is fast, friendly and the perfect quick pick up on the way to the hill.

Few things are better than a traditional Japanese hot pot when it’s cold outside, and that’s exactly what you’ll get at Kuchu Shabu. Their variety of shabu-shabu is available with everything from vegetables to scallops to elk to Australian Wagyu beef. Their new location in Canyons Village makes Kuchu Shabu a perfect slope side stop-in on the weekends or a post-ski dinner any day of the week. Canyons Village, 2307 W. High Mountain Rd., 435-649-0088, kuchushabu.com

DAY 3 - DINNER INDIA

GANESH INDIAN CUISINE With an enormous variety of authentic Indian dishes, Ganesh is a can’t miss spot located in Prospector Square. The Aloo Sag with potatoes and creamy spinach is an outstanding vegetarian option, while the Lamb Biryani is an omnivore’s treat. Indian cuisine is also the world’s best comfort food, so take comfort in that. 1811 Sidewinder Dr., 435-538-4110, ganeshindiancuisine.com

ALBERTO’S BREAKFAST BURRITO

1640 Bonanza Dr,, 435-6021145, albertosmex.com

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THE GREAT OUTDOORS WRITTEN BY SALT LAKE MAGAZINE STAFF | DESIGNED BY ARIANNA JIMENEZ

Living in the Mountain West has its benefits. In a socially distant time, having access to the actual distance of great outdoor spaces is most definitely a perk. And, as we continue to work through all of the problems in the world, those of us living here have a special release valve for when it all gets a bit much to take: The Great Outdoors. Finding ways to play in beautiful places has always been a part of the Mountain West lifestyle and now, more than ever, it has become essential.

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SORREL RIVER RANCH & SPA It may be a little unfair to other states that “The Great Outdoors” is actually synonymous with the Moab area, but we aren’t saying we feel bad about it. Actually, quite the opposite, we love it so much it’s on our license plates, people. Moab is a destination unlike any other, so why not experience it in a unique way? You don’t have to take the same vacation photos as the millions Moab visitors, right?

Don’t worry, it’s not a mirage, it’s an actual luxury in the desert surrounded by some of the world’s most famous, scenic red rock landscapes. Oliver Gibbons, general manager, says the ranch allows guests to immerse in nature, and enjoy activities you can’t usually get in Moab. “You’re not doing the typical tourist experience,” Gibbons says. World-class dining, private excursions, it’s all at your fingertips and the best part, Utahns? It’s

family-friendly. When can you find luxury that the kids can also enjoy? Sorrel River boasts a petting zoo on top of an endless list of activities for junior ranch wranglers including equestrian adventures. If all of the hiking, biking, and outdoor beauty seems overwhelming, then just get off the grid. Garden and cooking demos are also offered on the ranch but squeeze those in between a little rest and relaxation while enjoying views for days. “We

go beyond luxury and create unforgettable experiences. At Sorrel River Ranch, you are on an expedition, you really are an adventurer.”

MILE 17, UT-128, MOAB, UT | 435-259-4642 | SORRELRIVER.COM

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ACME OVERLAND LIMITED At the end of 2016, Tom Bender and his wife Jessica were sitting around the kitchen table. “We were having a conversation about what we wanted for the next year,” Tom says. “We wanted to travel and see our country.” This was the beginning of Acme Overland. Flash forward to their first build, the Acme Overland 1.0. As they were working, Tom says his wife asked him “This is going to be a business, isn’t it?”

Tom, a product designer, his brother, Jeff, a jack of all trades, handy with a wrench and his father, Gary, who spent most of his career running a Mercedes shop, stripped down a Mercedes Sprinter in dad’s driveway. While Jessica, an interior designer, was considering the fabric samples and finishes. And that’s where it all started. A couple of brothers, their dad and Tom’s talented wife designing the ultimate vehicle for family adventures.

Last fall, Jessica passed away, leaving Tom and his family to carry on her legacy. “She’s literally part of everything we do,” Tom says. What they do is amazing. Some clients utilize the “Adventure Custom.” Tom and his crew help them find the right make and model to build out. From there, they custom design every inch of space inside. Others opt for the ‘Adventure Ready’ van that includes the same level of detail as Adventure Custom’” only

with a set floor plan, making it turnkey, and ready to drive right off the lot. And, if they’re not sure about this whole #vanlife thing, they can rent one and take it out for a spin. “Our first family van was the prototype and we’ve gone way beyond it,” Bender says. “Our customers become our best friends. I get pictures of our vans all the way from Nova Scotia to Baja. We’re so busy that we have to live vicariously through our clients.”

2236 S 3270 W, WEST VALLEY CITY, UT | HELLO@ACMEOVERLAND.COM | ACMEOVERLAND.COM

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LONE-PEAK CANYON DEVELOPMENT, LLC. Accessibility to the great outdoors is one of Utah’s specialties, and now you can literally settle into mountain living steps away from miles of the Wasatch Front’s best trails. Lone-Peak Canyon subdivision in Draper is not only sharing that mountain space to build your luxury home, it’s upgrading your love of the outdoors with million-dollar views and a connection to nature you get to call your own.

AUTUMN RACHELLE MAST

PROFESSIONAL REALTOR AUTUMNRACHELLEHOMES@GMAIL.COM

Nestled between Twin Peaks and Lone-Peak, and at the top of Draper City’s Corner Canyon trail, you’re minutes away from hiking and biking miles of the Bonneville Shoreline Trail, Corner Canyon, Rush trail loop, Ghost Falls and Canyon Hollow. These trails are your backyard and perfect for the hiker, mountain bikers or the horseback riders. “You’re going to see the sunrise, you are going to see all the way to Spanish Fork Canyon,”

Mast says of the properties. LonePeak Canyon Development is the only community in Draper where you can bring in your own housing plan and builder, so you have the freedom to go mountain modern, farmhouse chic, colonial style, your housing dream becomes a reality. Minutes away from shopping, great cuisine and several city parks, Lone-Peak Canyon Development is the perfect home base ahead of any outdoor expeditions. “We are

the same elevation as Park City, we are in the mountains,” agent Autumn Mast says. These lots give you the privacy and serenity any outdoor enthusiast craves, backing up to conservation land.

14727 S CANYON POINTE ROAD, DRAPER, UT | 801-541-2102 | LONE-PEAKCANYON.COM/EXPLORE-DRAPER/

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MARK MILLER SUBARU Trekking through the great outdoors is, oh so much better when you can do it safely and in style. It’s no secret that it seems the Subaru was basically built for Utah’s top tier terrain, and Mark Miller Subaru is the hometown outfitter to get you set on your adventures. Ninety-seven percent of Subaru vehicles sold in the last 10 years are still on the road today, and it’s not like Utah landscapes take it easy on them.

From the depths of our slot canyons to the heights of mountain peaks, the safety, reliability and dependability of a Mark Miller Subaru never waivers. Mark Miller Subaru is the best kind of neighbor any Utahn could ask for: kind, generous, helpful and always looking out for your safety. The dealership is a small, family-owned business in its fourth generation of family ownership. The formula for success

is the same today as when they opened in 1953: Stellar customer service, haggle-free competitive vehicle pricing, and care for the community. The sales staff doesn’t work on commission. They are just sincere people with a transparent approach who work to make sure you get all-wheel drive, safety controls and options for your outdoor driving experience, all while supporting charity through the “Love

Promise” Program. The Mark Miller Subaru “Love Promise” works with local nonprofits to support their work and strengthen the community. Since 2010, they’ve donated $2.6 million to charity. “We’re going to invest in our community regardless, but reincorporating as a Benefit Corporation is our proclamation to the world that being a good corporate citizen is part of our DNA,” says CEO Jeff Miller.

3535 S STATE STREET, SALT LAKE CITY, UT | 888-859-6198 | MARKMILLERSUBARUMIDTOWN.COM 10920 S STATE STREET, SANDY, UT | 888-237-5075 | MARKMILLERSUBARUSOUTHTOWNE.COM

& BOTANICAL GARDEN

Utah’s Hogle Zoo is eager to kick off a new zoo-going season in 2021! Spring is a wonderful time to venture out

Please visit www.hoglezoo.org to reserve your tickets, purchase memberships and to check up-to-date Covid information.

ince you last visited, the Zoo welcomed a young giraffe from Texas, had a baby zebra born and, for the first time in Zoo history, Zoo guests are enjoying the wonder of a beautiful baby gorilla. Baby Georgia was born July 6, 2020 to mom Jabali and dad, Husani. She’s been slowly learning to navigate her surroundings, venturing farther and farther away from mom. The gorilla troop, which also includes JoRayK (grandma) has been enjoying the longer days and feeling the upcoming change in the weather.

Guests can visit the troop daily

Utah’s Hogle Zoo 2600 Sunnyside Avenue (840 South) Salt Lake City, UT 84108 801-584-1700 www.hoglezoo.org

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DURING A PANDEMIC BY REALLY, REALLY TRYING. HARD. By Jeremy Pugh & Josh Petersen Photos by Adam finkle Sponsored By

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Fisher Brewing CREATIVE CANNING THE LATTER-DAY SAINTS entered the Salt Lake Valley in 1847. Fisher Brewing Company was founded in 1884. When German immigrant Albert Fisher founded the brewery on the banks of the Jordan River in the middle of a teetotaling culture, success seemed unlikely. But the first brewery in the state was wildly successful and eventually became one of the West’s largest, turning out up to 75,000 kegs of beer every year. It even survived Prohibition. Half a century later, Fisher’s descendant, Tom Fisher Riemondy, re-opened the family business. He renovated an old auto body and paint shop and opened the new-old brewery with 12 beers, still relying on the old family slogan “sparkle brewed with altitude.” This year, Fisher found ways to utilize their beer, taproom space and canning capabilities for good. They created special lines of limited edition beers in custom cans to help raise funds for local businesses struggling to stay afloat during the pandemic. For example, their custom line of Monkey Wrench Gang Cans—utilizing the famous artwork of R. Crumb—on behalf of Ken Sanders Rare Books ,raised more than $25K, helping keep Ken in business. The event saw (socially distanced) lines out the door at the Fisher Tap Room. 320 W. 800 South, SLC, fisherbeer.com, 801-487-2337 TIM DWYER

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Oquirrh

Restaurant BETTING THE BOTTOM DOLLAR AFTER WORKING IN some of the best restaurants in town (Copper Onion, HSL, Pago) Chef Andrew Fuller and front-of-house standout Angelena Fuller opened their dream restaurant, Oquirrh, in downtown Salt Lake City in February 2019. Oquirrh intended from the start to be an artisanal community experience: an expression of love, not a quest for cash. Everything was familiar but original, served with grace and gusto and even humor—the asparagus spears were standing at attention on the plate, little soldiers with their feet stuck in a sheep’s milk fondue. Local art could be purchased right off the wall. This is the kind of restaurant Salt Lake was slowly becoming famous for—chef-dreamed, chefrun, definitively local, deserving of awards and stars. But even a labor of love has to have some cash. And when COVID-19 hit Salt Lake City, the Fullers' dream was seriously damaged. But the Fullers keep trying to follow the rules. The restaurant staff is down to Angie and Drew, a dishwasher and a cook. There are no days off and haven’t been for months. Any slight downtime is spent planning things like take-away Thanksgiving dinners or filling orders for food they never planned to serve, like a recently requested charcuterie platter.

ANDREW AND ANGELA FULLER

368 E. 100 South, SLC, 801-359-0426, oquirrhslc.com

Hive Eats SLC FEATS IN LOGISTICS

HIVE EATS IS A subscription meal delivery service featuring 10 of Salt Lake City’s favorite restaurants. Locally produced, locally sourced meals prepared by small independent restaurants are delivered each week. Meals are delivered on Sundays and Thursdays, pre-prepared and ready to eat after a few minutes in the oven. Participating restaurants include Arlo, Copper Onion, Cucina, Finca, Mazza, Osteria Amore, Pago, Proper, Publik and Trio. Seemingly out of thin air, the muscle behind Hive SLC—Missy Greiss, of Publik Coffee Roasters; Dean Pierose, owner of Cucina

Wine Bar; Scott Evans, founder of Pago Restaurant Group along with a dash of tech wizardry from James Roberts, a founding partner of Redirect Digital—created an elaborate delivery and online ordering system. Solving this massive logistical puzzle helps out local restaurants, providing a consistent revenue source and keeping their employees working. As a bonus, Hive SLC gives us a local-first way to order directly from some of SLC’s finest establishments and reduce the heavy fees that other online ordering services demand. hiveeatsslc.com

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Cucina Wine Bar and Deli PRESERVING NEIGHBORHOOD CONNECTION

WORKING WITH CHEF Joey Ferran, owner Dean Pierose has spent years turning what was a casual Avenues deli into a bistro and wine bar where Avenue residents gather to enjoy a place where everybody knows your name while the cuisine excites your taste buds. Pulling together a small world of flavors, Chef Ferran seasons cauliflower with red mole, sweetens a duck breast with saba, finishes a fried avocado with tamarindcoconut curry. Pierose responded to the COVID-19 crisis with his signature manic energy, quickly expanding his outdoor dining experience, pivoting to curbside delivery while Chef Ferran created takeout boxes of his elevated ingredients that could be assembled at home. But more than that, Pierose's outdoor spaces became a place where the neighborhood could gather safely. He offered free coffee in the mornings and encouraged his regulars to linger and commiserate together, preserving a semblance of society during a socially distanced time. 1026 2nd Avenue, SLC, 801-322-3055, cucinawinebar.com CHEF JOEY FERRAN AND OWNER DEAN PIEROSE

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Raise a glass to… This year’s awards are laced with plenty of sorrow. The toll the pandemic has taken on our restaurant community has caused casualties. Here, we honor the lost and underscore how important it is for us all to recognize the importance of supporting the places that continue to survive. Note: We have surely missed more than a few closures at our press time and invite you to reach out and share any that we didn't list here.

HOWDY ICE CREAM ALAMEXO CANNELLA'S

JORGE FIERRO

PALLET MAZZA (locations at 9th and 9th and in Sandy)

Rico Brand

CREEK TEA GEORGE PORCUPINE PUB & GRILLE’S (location on 1300 East )

RED BUTTE CAFE

STAYING IN ‘BEANSNESS’

KOKO KITCHEN THE OLIVE BISTRO

RICO BRAND, OWNED by Jorge Fierro, is the quintessential immigrant success story. Originally from Mexico, Fierro arrived in Salt Lake City penniless in 1985. Thoroughly unimpressed with the Mexican food offerings at his local grocery store, Fierro began selling pinto beans at the Salt Lake Farmers Market in the late ’90s. Since then, Rico has expanded into a warehouse with more than 30 employees, selling everything from tamales to salsa at local supermarkets. Fierro has also been a tireless community advocate—he raises money for charitable causes, caters community events for free and serves on small business advisory boards including the Burrito Project, which provides burritos for people experiencing homelessness in Salt Lake.

Last summer, it seemed that Rico would be another victim of rapid gentrification in Salt Lake. After 18 years as a staple in the Granary District, new ownership threatened to evict Fierro from his plant, inspiring public outcry and media attention. (On our website, Mary wrote, “Salt Lake is losing its soul.”) Luckily, Rico was able to find a new home in Poplar Grove, and, thanks to pandemic-led grocery sales, Fierro now plans to add even more employees. It’s a last-minute happy ending for a community leader who literally wears his mission on his sleeve, a tattoo in bright red block letters: “pay it forward.” 945 W. Folsom Ave, SLC, 801-433-9923 ricobrand.com

ZUCCA TRATTORIA BAR GEORGE TINWELL SHOGUN

Silver lining: The Rio Grande Cafe, forced from their location in the Rio Grande Depot following the 2020 earthquake was able to move in and occupy one of the city’s historic restaurant spaces on 1300 East.

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The Store (Holladay and SLC) SPECIAL DELIVERIES

SINCE 1968, THE Store has been the platonic ideal of a neighborhood market—locally focused, community-based and appealingly small scale. The Store sells food and drinks from hundreds of local vendors, providing new companies with a platform outside of chain stores. (In pre-pandemic times, sellers manned the aisles with samples of their own products.) This is the kind of place where the staff knows regular customers on a first-name basis and someone is always there to give hints about the best produce to buy. As grocery delivery becomes the new norm, The Store offers a personal touch that only an independent grocer can provide. Last March, high-risk and elderly customers began calling in their grocery lists over the phone, and The Store’s general managers personally delivered food to their homes. While supply shortages and health risks made the grocery business more challenging than ever this year, The Store thrived by continuing its commitment to local companies. They partnered with Utah restaurants like Pago and Hub & Spoke Diner to sell pre-made dinners, supporting restaurants while the industry fights to survive. In a year when grocery store employees were rightly called essential workers, places like The Store proved why these businesses are so necessary for our communities. 2050 E. 6200 South, Holladay, 801-272-1212 90 S. Rio Grande, SLC, 385-213-7900, thestoreutah.com COLBY JORGENSEN AND THE STORE'S OWNER SCOTT NIEDERHAUSER

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THE DEMITASSE SPOON AWARDS

FOR COVID CREATIVITY Anyone who ever looked for a corkscrew in Mary’s overflowing drawer of silver utensils has commented, “Why do you have two dozen demitasse spoons?” Her reply? “One can never have too many demitasse spoons, my dear.” In that spirit, we offer this year’s Demitasse Spoon Awards for COVID Creativity. Hopefully, these nods will one day go the way of the Coronavirus. But this year we call out what, we know, is an incomplete list of hospitable creativity and problem-solving in response to chaos.

THE DOWNTOWN ALLIANCE: Helped to create an open streets program to support bars and restaurants on lower Main Street. downtownslc.org

HARBOR SEAFOOD & STEAK: Built lovely heated greenhouses to accommodate small groups for year-round outdoor dining. harborslc.com

BUTCHERS BAR

HARMONS COOKING SCHOOL: Took its

Taking outdoor dining to the next level, Butchers installed three private "Alpenglobes," gorgeous little bubbles with a view. butcherschophouse.com

popular cooking classes online, giving homebound cooks a chance to sharpen their skills. harmonsgrocery.com

THE CHARLESTON:

AMOUR CAFE: To stay afloat they focused efforts on selling Amour Spreads a line of locally sourced jams and jellies. amourspreads.com

Created beautifully lit, heated tents and warming spaces on its outdoor patio. thecharlestondraper.com

Clearwater Distilling PROOF OF A HIGH-PROOF CONCEPT AS ILL-TIMED as a venture could possibly be, Matt and Stephanie Eau Claire’s Clearwater Distilling opened in March—yes, that March—complete with a tasting room and package store in Pleasant Grove. Matt makes what we’d call deep-shelf spirits that should be front-shelf stars. Take the Josephine. Named after the cabaret star and WWII French resistance spy Josephine Baker, this eau de vie is a mashup of a clear, un-aged brandy and a rum. Their Lorenz (a nod to Danish Arctic explorer Lorenz Peter Freuchen) is a clear rum with heady notes of cinnamon.

A distillery in Utah County? Is that even legal? Actually, yes. Just that no one had ever tried before. Matt and Stephanie waded into the morass of city and county regulations, public meetings, zoning laws, and skeptical Utah County officialdom to prove that yes, distilling is a legal venture, even in Utah County. Welcomed by the City of Pleasant Grove, Clearwater Distilling became the first, ever legal distilling operation in Happy Valley. 564 W. 700 South, Ste. 401, Pleasant Grove, 801-997-8667, clearwaterdistilling.com

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PAST WINNERS MATT CAPUTO Caputo’s Market

MATTHEW PFOHL Water Witch

STEVE ROSENBERG Liberty Heights Fresh

‘But the Portions…’ Mary Brown Malouf, Salt Lake's executive editor from 2007 to 2020, xoxomm

BLAKE SPALDING AND JEN CASTLE Hell’s Backbone

IAN BRANDT Vertical Diner

SPICE KITCHEN INCUBATOR CULINARY CRAFTS SCOTT EVANS Pago Group

ALI SABBAH Mazza

FLOURISH BAKING HARMON’S NEIGHBORHOOD GROCER FRANCIS FECTEAU Libation, Inc.

JORGE FIERRO Rico Brand

FRED MOESSINGER Caffe Molise

OMAR ABOU-ISMAIL Rawtopia

EVAN LEWANDOWSKI Ruth Lewandowski Wines

RANDALL CURTIS Harbor Steak & Seafood

LAVANYA MAHATE Saffron Valley

RYAN LOWDER Copper Onion

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EACH YEAR, SALT LAKE MAGAZINE honors the growers, food evangelists, grocers, servers, bakers, chefs, bartenders, restaurateurs—basically anyone who has a hand in the essential act of feeding us and does so with grace, style, creativity and care. This past year, well, was “just awful,” as our dearly departed Executive Editor Mary Brown Malouf said often. It was especially hard on the hospitality sector. In many ways, as Mary and I discussed before her passing, this year’s awards are given for merely surviving. And obviously, these Blue Plate Awards are the first-ever without our Mary bringing them across the finish line.

As Mary conceived, a Blue Plate is given to an establishment or an individual who has done more than put good food on the table. They’ve created culture, made acts of kindness and education and are paragons of service that goes beyond Mary spoke the language of the kitchen, the lingo of servers, the banter of the bar—the Esperanto of anyone who has ever waited on a table, slung a drink, cleaned a grease trap or prepped on the line. But she also knew the language of dining, being served and what a diner should expect. She was critical on both sides of that divide. Cajoling, teasing the best from the back of the house and lecturing Utah diners on not just where to eat but how to eat and to dare their palates and pocketbooks on local food. She loved the classic Borscht Belt joke: “‘How’s the food?’ ‘Terrible but the portions are amazing!” She used it often as the punch line to what she saw wrong with the chain-heavy culinary experience in Utah. A doting aunt who urged us to sit up straight and at least try the foie gras. Mary preached constantly that food is about more than a price point—it is fun, friends, conversation. It was about living and, also, a living for the people who deserve recognition and love. “Eat this. DON’T EAT THAT, throw off the chains that bind you,” she’d say with her typical smirk. These are Mary’s awards, the last that she’ll preside over. They were unearthed from a morass of scrawled notes, emails and random laptop files labeled “BLU PLAT." And we dedicate them to her, our town’s biggest food fan, critic and champion, xoxomm. —Jeremy Pugh, Editor

BROOKS KIRCHHEIMER

Hearth and Hill OPENING DOORS IN JUST A few years, Hearth and Hill has earned its reputation as a good neighbor. The restaurant proudly states that the majority of diners are Park City locals, who keep returning to try Executive Chef Jordan Harvey’s elevated, contemporary takes on modern American classics, from poke bowls to bison patty melts. Even before the pandemic hit, Hearth and Hill was dedicated to running a communitydriven, eco-friendly business. The restaurant serves produce from local farms, composts leftover food scraps and donates meals to children facing food insecurity in Park City. As the pandemic ravages independent restaurants, Hearth and Hill has reaffirmed its commitment to small businesses in Park City. Using its large dining room as an informal gathering space for the city, Hearth and Hill has donated to and hosted fundraisers for community organizations. They provided flu shots for their own staff and other neighboring businesses. And their generosity extends to their own employees, who received extra groceries and free Thanksgiving turkeys. All the while, they have continued to serve seasonal cuisine with creative solutions for curbside delivery, including special holiday menus, Christmas curbside caroling and frozen family-size dishes. It’s these little (and notso-little) things that make Hearth and Hill an important neighborhood leader. 1153 Center Dr., Park City, 435-200-8840, hearth-hill.com

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Spiceto-go KEEPING THE SPICE FLOWING SPICE KITCHEN HELPS refugees turn their cooking skills into a viable, sustainable enterprise by offering affordable kitchen space, training, access to financing, and advice about business practices and marketing. Founded by Natalie El-Deiry and the International Rescue Committee in partnership with Salt Lake County, the kitchen has nurtured the seeds of many Salt Lake food trucks, farmers market stands and restaurants. Its box meal service, Spice-to-Go, offers an ever-changing menu of exotic meals cooked by incubator kitchen’s refugee chefs. Sign up for the weekly menu, order on Tuesday, pick up on Thursday and liven up the “what’s for dinner?” question with surprise! It’s African-Caribbean fusion night. This year the organization, already an essential resource for refugees, became, well, even more essential. When coming to this country, refugees often have nothing but a few clothes and their cooking skills; Spice helps these displaced people find their financial feet again by sharing their culture and food. With COVID restrictions limiting dine-in service and the incubator’s event catering program, Spice-to-Go became the focus, allowing the kitchen to keep sharing international food experiences serving Utah’s vulnerable refugee community. 751 W. 800 South, SLC, 385-229-4484. spicekitchenincubator.org

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SAADIYAH HASSAN

SALT LAKE MAGAZINE

Travel Series 2021

ROAD TRIPS COURTESY WYOMING TOURISM AND MILES PARTNERSHIP. DISCOVER MORE AT TRAVELWYOMING.COM

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H MY GOD. It’s full of stars.” Mary

exclaims, nodding to the famous line from 2001: A Space Odyssey. But what else can you say from underneath a blanket of stars on the outskirts of Jackson, Wyo.? We’re here out here craning our necks upwards on an expedition with Samuel Singer of Wyoming Stargazing (1085 WY-22 Unit D, Jackson, 844-9967827, wyomingstargazing.org). Singer is a science educator and astrophysics nut. He founded the nonprofit in 2013, primarily because he can’t not, talk about the night sky, but officially to provide astronomy programs for school kids in the Jackson area. The group funds its efforts primarily through group stargazing tours like this one. Lucky us, no one else signed up for this evening’s outing and we’ve got Singer, and his endless knowledge and enthusiasm, all to ourselves (along with warm drinks, cozy blankets and a little bootlegged whiskey for medicinal purposes). Wyoming’s night sky is as advertised. Jackson and the surrounding communities have long worked to meet dark sky standards in their planning and zoning, and though the lights of Jackson are visible, they are not interfering with the millions of twinkling stars above. And it doesn’t hurt that Singer hauls along a massive tracking telescope with a pro-level 20inch mirror for us to get a closer look at the prominent stops on his tour of the heavens, and on your left Andromeda! It was a thrilling welcome to the wonders of Wyoming. Last fall, Salt Lake magazine’s executive editor—the late, great Mary Brown Malouf—and I braved the pandemic and set out to explore one corner of the Cowboy State on a tour that started with the skies and took us down to the bottom of the Snake River Canyon, bucking down roaring white water.

PHOTO CREDIT TK

JACKSON. NOT JACKSON HOLE.

DEVILS TOWER WAS AMERICA’S FIRST NATIONAL MONUMENT. THE 1,267-FOOT STRIATED ROCK TOWER AINED FAME AS THE FILMING SITE FOR STEVEN SPIELBERG’S CLOSE ENCOUNTERS OF THE THIRD KIND.

Mistakenly known as Jackson Hole, Jackson, Wyo. is an insanely affluent town located in the geographical depression called “Jackson Hole,” In the early nineteenth-century, mountain men, many dispatched by David E. Jackson of the Rocky Mountain Fur Company, sought fur in this part of the Oregon Territory, expanding on the explorations of the Lewis and Clark Expedition. The area’s appeal to the wealthy

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and well-heeled, who make Teton County the most affluent per-capita zip code in the United States, is obvious. This is a stunningly beautiful country, and Jackson is perfectly situated in range of two of America’s greatest national parks, Grand Teton and Yellowstone. Grand Teton National Park occupies the northwestern part of the valley encompassing the iconic, jagged peaks of the Teton Range. The Town of Jackson sits at the southern end. The Snake River threads through the entire valley from its headwater in Yellowstone National Park. These parks are part of the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem, one of the last remaining large, nearly intact ecosystems in the northern temperate zone of the Earth.

WHERE TO RANGE Our evening under the stars was followed by an early morning call time for pick up by our guide from Jackson Hole Wildlife Safaris (650 W. Broadway, Jackson, 307-690-6402, jacksonholewildlifesafaris.com). The all-day excursion was essentially a grand tour of the greatest hits of Yellowstone (like Old Faithful, Grand Prismatic Spring and Yellowstone Lake) punctuated by “hurry! look!” sightings of pronghorn antelope and roaming bison. And although we were skunked on seeing bears or wolves, our guide kept up a steady patter of folksy wisdom, facts and tall tales that kept us laughing and rolling our eyes as we trundled around Yellowstone and back. Jackson’s adventurous residents pride themselves on a well organized and fully segregated network of biking trails in and out of town, so the next day I decided to see what all the fuss was about. On the advice of the folks at Hoback Sports (520

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W. Broadway #3, Jackson, 307-733-5335, hobacksports.com) I saddled up for the 40-mile road bike ride to Jenny Lake in Grand Teton National Park (Bonus: The park’s entrance gate has the cutest little mini-bike sized fee station to enter via two wheels.) This excursion, on one of the most immaculate road bike trails I’ve ever ridden, runs entirely below the imposing peaks of the Tetons and delivers you to the lake’s shore. Hoback Sports also rents pedal-assist E-bikes if you’d rather not slug it out. While I was out grinding below the Tetons, Mary opted to take a scenic chair lift ride to get a birds-eye view of the Tetons, the National Elk Refuge and the town of Jackson from 1,571 feet up to the summit of Snow King Mountain (402 E. Snow King Ave., Jackson, 307-2015464, snowkingmountain.com) For our final day, we saved the best for last. Running the “daily,” four-hour whitewater trip down the Snake River, is one of Jackson’s bucket list items. We signed up with Lewis and Clark Expeditions (335 N. Cache St., Jackson, 307-733-4022, lewisandclarkriverrafting.com) and climbed into a raft with our salty guide (the aptly named Orion Hatch) Captain Hatch was about to give us a master class in whitewater, expertly rowing us into the deepest holes and into the biggest waves. The “daily” builds with increasingly wild rapids that crescendo with its most notorious—the Big Kahuna and Lunch Counter—where, during high river flow, boats commonly flip. Even this late in the season, the biggest rapids on the daily did not disappoint and we emerged, soaking, laughing and happy to have followed our captain’s very first command: “everybody stay in the boat, OK?”

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WHERE TO EAT All of this adventure requires sustenance. Start at the Bunnery Bakery and Restaurant (130 N. Cache St., Jackson, 307-733-5474, bunnery.com) where a hearty breakfast menu and a selection of housemade baked goods fills both bill and belly. (Also amazing pies. Who says you can’t have pie for breakfast?) Lured in by the scent of smoking brisket, we discovered Hatch Taqueria and Tequilas (120 W. Broadway, Jackson, 307-203-2780, hatchjh. com) a modern Mexican spot where that brisket comes in taco form alongside what we decided was the best margarita in Jackson, As oppressed Utahns, one of our best finds was Bin 22, (200 W. Broadway, Jackson, 307-739-9463, bin22jacksonhole. com) a combo wine store and wine bar. Choose from the curated selection behind the bar or pick any bottle from the store’s Spanish and Italian selection. Drink it on the spot with a selection of small bites. We never wanted to leave. The Hotel Jackson’s house bar and restaurant, Figs (120 N. Glenwood St., Jackson, 307-7332200, hoteljackson.com), was a unique surprise, a LebaneseMediterranean restaurant in the heart of cowboy land (the hotel’s ownership is Lebanese). The grilled lamb chop was the standout on a solid menu of Lebanese standards, including authentically prepared hummus, interestingly customizable with a selection of traditionally prepared meats and spices. And how could we not venture into the venerable Wort Hotel’s Silver Dollar and Bar & Grill (50 N. Glenwood St., Jackson, 307-7332190, worthotel.com) to check out the famous Silver Dollar Bar, throw back a couple and enjoy the menu of hearty pub fare.

WHERE TO STAY The Lodge at Jackson Hole (80 Scott Ln., Jackson, 307739-9703, lodgeatjh.com) A down-home, friendly spot that is lose to town but set back secluded grove of pine trees. The hearty hot breakfast made an excellent start to the day and we loved the hundreds of cute little wooden bears adorning the lodge’s detailed carved wooden interior and exterior. Hotel Jackson (120 N. Glenwood St., Jackson, 307-7332200, hoteljackson.com) A gorgeous modern luxury hotel, a western accent, in the heart of Jackson. We loved Figs, the hotel’s signature restaurant, and the efficient and impeccable service we witnessed from arrival to departure. The Wort Hotel (50 N. Glenwood St., Jackson, 307733-2190, worthotel.com) The word ‘charming’ doesn’t say enough about this gorgeous boutique hotel. Built in 1941, The Wort is the grand dame of Jackson Hotels. It’s famous Silver Dollar Bar was designed and built by a German cabinet maker using 2,032 uncirculated Morgan Silver Dollars from the Denver mint. Snow King Mountain (402 E. Snow King Ave., Jackson, 307201-5464, snowkingmountain. com) has four distinct properties at or near its base—The Elk Country Inn, 49er Inn & Suites, Antler Inn, Cowboy Village Resort and one on-mountain, ski-in-ski-out option, The Snow King Resort Hotel.

SALT RIVER IN STAR VALLEY

FOSSIL BUTTE NATIONAL MONUMENT JACKSON HOLE AERIAL TRAM

PHOTOS: (CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT) WYOMING OFFICE OF TOURISM; @TLYNNEUFELD; WYOMING OFFICE OF TOURISM

ROAD TRIP 1:

SALT TO STONE Welcoming small towns brimming with local flavor and stretches of unscathed wilderness await visitors traveling from Salt Lake City into southwest Wyoming and northward to Yellowstone. The Salt to Stone region is a colorful Adventureland waiting to be discovered by road trippers. Trace the footsteps of mountain men and women, discover dreamy vistas by foot, bike, or car—and tour museums and attractions that showcase Western culture at its finest. STARTING POINT: Evanston, Wyo. 1. ROUNDHOUSE & RAIL YARDS, EVANSTON Evanston is home to one of the only remaining complete roundhouses on the old Union Pacific line between Omaha and

Sacramento. This historical building—used by railroads to store and service locomotives — has a turntable that is still operational. 2. FORT BRIDGER STATE HISTORIC SITE, FORT BRIDGER Several restored buildings highlight the history of this 19th-century fur-trading post, a vital supply stop for wagon trains traversing the Oregon, California and Mormon trails. Tour the reconstructed trading post and museum. 3. FOSSIL BUTTE NATIONAL MONUMENT, NEAR KEMMERER Colorful geologic formations rise about 1,000 feet above Twin Creek Valley and possess some of the world’s best-preserved fossils, including those of fish, insects, plants, reptiles, birds and mammals.

4. STAR VALLEY SCENIC BYWAY This picturesque 80-mile stretch of Highway 89 starts at the Idaho-Wyoming border, climbs up Salt Canyon and Salt River Pass and descends into the sprawling and verdant Star Valley. Then the route continues through the quaint communities of Smoot, Afton, Grover, Thayne and Etna before reaching Alpine and ending at the Lincoln County line in Snake River Canyon.

5. JACKSON HOLE AERIAL TRAM, TETON VILLAGE Ride the tram in Teton Village up 4,139 feet to unparalleled wraparound views of BridgerTeton National Forest and Grand Teton National Park.

ENDING POINT: Yellowstone National Park south entrance

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ROAD TRIP 2:

women who paved the way in the women’s suffrage movement. 2. WYOMING TERRITORIAL PRISON STATE HISTORIC SITE, LARAMIE This historic site is rich with tales of “violent and desperate outlaws,” the most famous of which was Butch Cassidy. Browse exhibits on the penitentiary’s prisoners and how it became a center for agricultural experimentation for the University of Wyoming.

Those pining for epic outdoor pursuits will find plenty to do on a road trip through the Rocky Mountains to the Teton Range in the Rockies to the Tetons region, where the beauty of the Snowy, Medicine Bow, Seminoe and Wind River mountain ranges heighten the scenery—literally. Immerse yourself in nature through activities like rock climbing, hiking and biking, and delve into Native American, women’s suffrage and frontier history.

3. ALBANY LODGE, LARAMIE Flanked by the Snowy Range, Laramie Plains and Medicine Bow National Forest, this lovingly restored 1907 hotel and cafe is a terrific home base for adventures in the surrounding wildlands.

STARTING POINT: Summit Information Center, Laramie, Wyo. 1. WYOMING HOUSE FOR HISTORIC WOMEN, LARAMIE See exhibits on Louisa Gardner Swain—the first woman in the world to vote under the Wyoming Territory law granting women the right to vote and hold office—and 12 other local

4. GRAND ENCAMPMENT MUSEUM, ENCAMPMENT Wander through more than a dozen preserved historical buildings furnished with artifacts showcasing the history of the timber, mining and agricultural industries of the Upper Platte Valley at the turn of the 20th century. Don’t miss the two-story outhouse.

Yellowstone National Park

Dubois

9 Wind River Indian Reservation

Riverton Lander

South Pass City

5. WYOMING FRONTIER PRISON, RAWLINS More than 13,500 people were incarcerated at the “Old Pen” during its 80 years of operation, including 11 women. Tour the

WYOMING TERRITORIAL PRISON STATE HISTORIC SITE

prison, built in 1901 just three blocks off Main Street, to gain insight into its fascinatingly dark past. 6. WOMEN’S SUFFRAGE PATHWAY, NEAR SOUTH PASS CITY Drive the Wyoming Women’s Suffrage Pathway, a 19-mile segment of Highway 28 southwest of South Pass City. The 1860s-era mining town is where Esther Hobart Morris served as justice of the peace and became the first woman to hold political office in the U.S. 7. LANDER BAR, LANDER Originally opened as a saloon in 1908, the bar served as a hotel, brothel and boarding house— among other things—before it was turned back into a saloon. Order a whiskey or craft beer, the perfect thirst quenchers after a day of rock climbing at nearby Sinks Canyon State Park. 8. WIND RIVER HOTEL & CASINO, RIVERTON Learn about the past, present and future of the Eastern Shoshone

Rawlins

Saratoga

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Laramie

Encampment

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and Northern Arapaho tribes who reside on the Wind River Reservation in the establishment’s Northern Arapaho Experience Room and try your luck at the casino. 9. NATIONAL BIGHORN SHEEP INTERPRETIVE CENTER, DUBOIS The world’s largest wintering herd of bighorn sheep roams this remote area. Stop by the National Bighorn Sheep Interpretive Center to view exhibits about the majestic mammals and set up a guided or solo tour to see them in their natural habitat. ENDING POINT: Yellowstone National Park south entrance

LANDER BAR

PHOTOS: (TOP TO BOTTOM) @VISITLARAMIE; @MILETTEAROUNDTHEWORLD

ROCKIES TO TETONS

Yellowstone National Park

ROAD TRIP 3:

PARK TO PARK Follow the Park to Park Highway—a popular early 1900s auto route connecting 12 national parks in the West — to discover road-trip stops too special to ignore, from Wyoming’s lively capital city to quaint small towns that move at a refreshingly slower pace. Drop a line in one of the West’s most renowned fishing destinations, revel in prehistoric and natural wonders, and pick up perfect Wyoming mementos — like cowboy boots and local wine — to remember your journey. STARTING POINT: Southeast Wyoming Welcome Center 1. TERRY BISON RANCH RESORT, CHEYENNE

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concocted from all-local ingredients. Make an appointment to stop in for sips of their semi-sweet Cowgirl Blush or the tart Cherry Rush.

Thermopolis

Casper Climb aboard a custombuilt train for a ride out to the middle of the working ranch’s bison herd and bite into the Senator’s Steakhouse’s juicy bison burger, voted the Best Bison Burger in Wyoming by USA Today’s “10 Best.”

2. CHEYENNE BOTANIC GARDENS, CHEYENNE Linger in rose, herb, wetland, cacti and woodland gardens, admire the tropical plant collection in the stately Grand Conservatory and get an idea of what life was like for early Wyoming settlers in the historic Rotary Century Plaza.

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Douglas

Glendo

Guernsey

3 Torrington

2 Cheyenne

Start

3. TABLE MOUNTAIN VINEYARDS, NEAR TORRINGTON Table Mountain Vineyards’ “pure Wyoming wine” is

4. GUERNSEY STATE PARK, GUERNSEY Explore historical structures built by the Civilian Conservation Corps in the 1930s, including a museum located at the top of a cliff that gives way to expansive views of a sparkling reservoir. 5. GLENDO STATE PARK, GLENDO Sparkling Glendo Reservoir attracts boaters, water skiers, swimmers and anglers. Keep your eyes peeled for teepee rings and other artifacts left by Native American tribes who once inhabited the area.

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back to the Precambrian period, as well as bighorn sheep and other wildlife. Keep an eye out for signage highlighting the canyon’s geology along the way.

JACKALOPE SQUARE

ENDING POINT: Yellowstone National Park south entrance

ROAD TRIP 4:

7. AYRES NATURAL BRIDGE, DOUGLAS Discover a 100-foot-long natural rock arch spanning La Prele Creek west of Douglas. This oasis has a short trail that leads to a view of the “bridge” from above, as well as picnic tables that offer a break from the road. 8. LOU TAUBERT RANCH OUTFITTERS, CASPER This downtown Casper institution has supplied locals and visitors with boots, hats and other Western essentials since 1919. With more than 10,000 pairs of boots in stock, you’re sure to find the perfect fit.

MEETEETSE CHOCOLATIER

6. JACKALOPE SQUARE, DOUGLAS According to legend, the jackalope was born in Douglas when two brothers mounted a jackrabbit’s body with deer antlers at their taxidermy shop. Pose with the 8-foot statue of the creature at Jackalope Square. Don’t forget to tag #ThatsWY!

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9. WYOMING DINOSAUR CENTER & DIG SITES, THERMOPOLIS Hundreds of displays and more than 30 mounted skeletons tell storied tales of Wyoming’s prehistoric past. See the Archaeopteryx specimen—one of only 10 in the world—or opt for a dig-site tour, where you can dig for fossils yourself. 10. WIND RIVER CANYON, NEAR THERMOPOLIS Travel through time on the Wind River Canyon Scenic Byway in Thermopolis to catch glimpses of Wind River Canyon’s 2,500-foot, pink-hued rock walls, which date

BLACK TO YELLOW Stories of the American West echo throughout the Black to Yellow region, home to kaleidoscopic landscapes and iconic sights. During your journey from northeast Wyoming’s Black Hills to Yellowstone, discover geologic marvels, dense evergreen forests and sprawling prairie lands. Step into the past to meet larger-thanlife characters like Buffalo Bill Cody and find out what life was like in Wyoming during different periods in history. STARTING POINT: WyomingSouth Dakota border, near Northeast Wyoming Welcome Center, Beulah 1. VORE BUFFALO JUMP, NEAR BEULAH Stop by the small interpretive center to gain insight into how this natural sinkhole was used as a buffalo jump (a buffalo trap) from about 1500 to 1800 A.D. by at least five different Plains Indian tribes. 2. ALADDIN GENERAL STORE, ALADDIN Groceries, fishing supplies, Western wear and antiques are just a few things you’ll find at this gem, a general store built in 1896. Be sure to pick up some oldfashioned candy or sarsaparilla to enjoy on the front porch.

PHOTOS: (TOP TO BOTTOM) @WYOGEOSURVEY; WYOMING OFFICE OF TOURISM; @MEETEETSECHOCOLATIER

GLENDO STATE PARK

Sheridan Devils Tower

Cody

3. DEVILS TOWER NATIONAL MONUMENT, NEAR HULETT & SUNDANCE Hike one of the four scenic trails at America’s first national monument, a 1,267-foot striated rock tower that gained fame as the filming site for Steven Spielberg’s “Close Encounters of the Third Kind.” 4. FRONTIER AUTO MUSEUM, GILLETTE Get lost in this charming locale’s antique shop, old-timey general store and car museum, which features an array of shiny classic cars, vintage gas pumps, neon signs and other transportation memorabilia. 5. CHRIS LEDOUX PARK, KAYCEE The legacy of the legendary

Buffalo Meeteetse

Worland

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Greybull

Yellowstone National Park

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7 Kaycee

hall-of-fame rodeo cowboy and country musician Chris LeDoux is immortalized in a sculpture titled Good Ride Cowboy at Chris LeDoux Park in Kaycee, where he lived on a ranch with his family. 6. WYO THEATER, SHERIDAN Established in 1923, the WYO was one of the first vaudeville theaters in Wyoming and is now the oldest still in operation— bringing professional music, dance and theater to historic downtown Sheridan.

7. WASHAKIE MUSEUM & CULTURAL CENTER, WORLAND Exhibits on paleontology, archaeology and early settlements portray the relationship between the historic inhabitants of the Bighorn Basin and their environment. 8. MEETEETSE CHOCOLATIER, MEETEETSE Tim Kellogg, a saddle bronc rider and cowboy turned chocolatier, makes all of the artisan confections at Meeteetse Chocolatier from scratch daily.

Choose from exquisite truffle flavors like prickly pear cactus and Wyoming Whiskey. 9. BUFFALO BILL CENTER OF THE WEST, CODY Immerse yourself in the natural and cultural history and art of the region at five different institutions in one complex: the Plains Indian, Buffalo Bill, Draper Natural History, Whitney Western Art and Cody Firearms museums. ENDING POINT: Yellowstone National Park east entrance Find more along these routes visit TravelWyoming.com

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WHY WAS UTAH’S ONLY TITANIC PASSENGER NOT AMONG THE SURVIVORS? Irene Corbett of Provo would’ve had early access to a lifeboat, but her descendants believe she remained on the sinking ship to help others. BY HE ATHER HAY E S

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It’s a bold declaration. More than half of the passengers went down with the ship. But a closer look at the survivors puts the Corbett family’s inklings into sharp focus. Irene’s second-class cabin was on the upper decks of the ship. She was among the more affluent women and children on these decks who had a head start loading into the dismally inadequate supply of lifeboats. (The majority of passengers held third class, or steerage, tickets and were held back from entering the upper decks). That’s why 93 percent of the women and children from upper-deck cabins made it out alive. But Irene didn’t. The question “why?” haunts her family.

WITHOUT THE PROPHET’S BLESSING

AT P AY S O N ’ S P E T E E T N E E T M U S E U M and Cultural Arts Center, Salt Lake residents Liz Corbett Plumb and her 13-year-old daughter, Grace, take in the antique wooden desks and tidy blackboard of a classroom that once belonged to Liz’s great-grandmother, Irene Corbett. A whip-smart teacher who molded young minds during the dawn of the 20th century, Irene is memorialized in an exhibit at the museum for her inspirational life—underscored by her tragically famous and perhaps even more inspirational death. Pulling a treasured artifact from her purse, Liz holds the postcard up against an enlarged copy displayed prominently on one wall. Dated April 1, 1912, the card bears an illustration of London’s Piccadilly Circus on one side and Irene’s gracefully sloping scrawl on the back with her ill-fated words, “Finish London soon—am going to sail on one of the biggest ships afloat: the Titanic, an American Liner.” This was the last dispatch from 30-year-old Irene, the only Utahn aboard the RMS Titanic. She drowned with more than 1,500 passengers hours after the liner struck an iceberg in the early hours of April 15, 1912 sinking to the ocean floor in the frigid north Atlantic on its way from Southampton to New York. “Although we’ll never know how she spent her final hours that night, the fact that she wasn’t among the survivors gives us a remarkable clue,” says Liz. “Her family always felt she gave her own life for others.”

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Ten years earlier, 21-year-old Irene had accepted a teaching post at the Payson school. “Protective” measures for women were the norm in the early 20th century. A Supreme Court decision in 1908 reflected the sentiment of the time, finding that a woman, like a child, ‘‘has been looked upon in the courts as needing especial care (sic) ... she is properly placed in a class by herself, and legislation designed for her protection may be sustained.’’ As part of her teaching contract with the school, Irene signed her name to what, to modern eyes, would be a draconian set of rules for female teachers, especially an outspoken suffragette like Irene. Her contract forbade her from keeping the company of men, leaving home in the evening, traveling without permission, wearing any less than two petticoats or even visiting the local ice cream parlor. When she met and married Walter Corbett, Irene was immediately forced to forfeit her contract and give up her classroom. She had broken her contract by dating Walter. Undeterred, she turned her attention to raising her young family and a new course of study, nursing, at the Brigham Young Academy in Provo. “She was ahead of her time,” says Liz. “She wanted a family but also cared deeply about a fulfilling career.” Irene soon found her calling in obstetrics, assisting physicians with deliveries. The highs of aiding in a healthy birth were, however, diminished with the frequent lows in losing a patient to childbirth, and Irene soon discovered that medical standards in her community were lacking. Troubled, she learned of a six-month training opportunity thousands of miles away at London’s Lying-In Hospital—a program unmatched by anything offered close to home. Irene’s medical colleagues and parents urged her to go—but her husband and his family? Not so much. “She was an incredibly selfless person,” says Liz of the lore surrounding her great-grandmother. “She saw it as her calling to save lives. But her husband’s family thought it was too far away and they discouraged her from going.” A niece of the Mormon Prophet Joseph F. Smith, Walter’s mother went to the great effort of arranging a meeting between the Prophet

LIZ CORBETT PLUMB AND HER DAUGHTER GRACI IN THE PEETNEET MUSEUM IN PAYSON

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IRENE CORBETT’S

TEACHING CONTRACT AT THE PETEETNEET ACADEMY Teacher is not to get married. This contract becomes null and void of the teacher marries. Teacher is not to keep the company of men. Teacher must be home between the hours of 8 p.m. and 6 a.m. unless in attendance at a school function. Teacher may not loiter downtown in the ice cream parlors. Teacher may not leave town at any time without the permission of the Chairman of the Board of Trustees. Teacher is not to smoke cigarettes or drink wine, beer or whiskey. This contract becomes null and void if the teacher is caught smoking, or drinking wine, beer, or whiskey. Teacher may not ride in a carriage with any man except her father or brother. Teacher is not to dress in bright colors. Teacher may not dye her hair. Teacher will not wear dresses more than two inches above the ankle. Teacher is to wear at least two petticoats. Teacher is to bring a bucket to school to clean and scrub the building every week.

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and her daughter-in-law in the hopes that he would convince her against the journey. But Irene remained determined. Amid a flurry of finger-wagging and gossip, she left Payson and crossed the Atlantic without the Prophet’s blessing, leaving their three children: Walter, 5; Roene, 3; and Mack, 18 months; in the care of her parents who had mortgaged their farm to pay her tuition.

HELPING LONDON’S POOREST The 1914 city streets of her new home would have been filled with whizzing bicycles, lumbering horse-drawn carriages and doubledecker busses plastered with hand-painted signs touting everything from castor oil to cabbages. Men in long coats, sporting pocket watches and bowler hats and women in long frocks and elaborate haberdashery would have dotted the landscape of her York Road residence in Lambeth near the hospital. For one unfamiliar with city life, the current class-struggle would have sharpened every angle of London’s turbulence, and Irene was given a front-row seat by treating the city’s very poorest. Letters to home described undernourished and flea-infested children hanging on the ragged skirts of her patients. A coal shortage would have lent no firelight comfort to the damp hospital and smashed shop windows—compliments of London’s West End Suffragettes—would have dotted Irene’s walks through the city. To the Provo Daily Herald, she sent articles detailing her experiences, discussing the plight of women in England and speaking out in favor of their rights. “I am so glad to have this privilege [to study in London],” she penned in the bespoke final postcard, sealed in an envelope alongside a photograph of her small graduating class. She’d recently booked passage on the Titanic, longing for a swift reunion with her family. Then, reflecting on her grandmother’s treacherous sea voyage from

England as a Mormon convert, she added: “I shall enjoy the trip home, which will be quite different to the one my dear grandma took years ago with little comfort.”

A FAMILY AND COMMUNITY DIVIDED While Irene probably didn’t take kindly to the rules for teachers at her first job in Payson, the protective mindset toward women needing “especial care” might have saved her life when tragedy struck the Titanic. First and second-class women and children were eased into lifeboats while most men chivalrously stood aside. Yet, as a nurse, fiercely loyal to her call, perhaps Irene never saw herself in need of protection, but as one who might offer it to others. In the days after the ship’s sinking, Irene’s whereabouts were unknown. Provo’s The Herald Republican’s headline read: “Provo Woman Among Missing; Family Hopeful.” Four days later, on Saturday, April 19, 1912, a Deseret News article reported: “Hope abandoned for Mrs. Corbett’s safety … [it is an] inevitable conclusion that she perished in the waves with the untold numbers whose certain death will never be recorded.” A posthumous Utah celebrity, speculation over Irene’s death swirled like debris in a dust devil. Some saw Irene’s tragedy as a cautionary tale. “It was a big deal in her hometown,” Plumb says. Her greatgrandmother’s decisions divided both her family and her community, causing a half-century rift between the Corbetts and the Colvins. “People were saying she shouldn’t have gone against the Prophet,” Liz says. “But those who knew her intimately felt she was a hero— that it was her devotion to her faith that nudged her to England because she so badly wanted to help people, and that she likely used her last breath doing just that.” Irene’s husband Walter continued on as a loving father, Liz says, but his children remained in the care of his in-laws. He soon remarried, but tragically died a few years later while undergoing surgery. In the home of Irene’s parents where Liz’s grandfather was

raised, Irene’s name was spoken with reverence. “My grandpa Mack grew up inspired by stories about his mother and they’ve made their way to me,” says Liz, adding she’s felt a kinship with Irene through her life. “I’ve always been drawn to adventure, to traveling to unusual places. Even when I was young I wasn’t afraid to go out and see the world. I think there’s a little bit of Irene in me.” Liz says she hopes her great-grandmother’s generosity, determination and strength course through her veins as well, and that this strong female figure will inspire her five children— especially her only daughter, Grace. “People who knew her best said Irene was selfless to a fault,” she says. “Besides being an adventurous woman, Irene had a strong sense of duty to humanity—that’s why she went to London in the first place. Her family agreed that it would have been ‘so like Irene’ if her final act was giving her own life for another.”

HEALING In 2012, the 100th anniversary of the Titanic’s sinking, The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints paid tribute to Irene during its worldwide Salt Lake conference. “It was her great desire to make a difference in the world,” leader Quentin L. Cook said after telling her story. “She was careful, thoughtful, prayerful and valiant.” It’s a sentiment already well-known to Liz and her family—but, she says, it was nice to hear the church acknowledge her greatgrandmother. The Corbett and Colvin families’ proud ancestral tapestry comprises hardscrabble pioneers, hardworking farmers and faith-filled figureheads. But the strong-minded, doggedly selfless Irene has perhaps become the preeminent thread from which her progenitors draw strength. Now a new generation is looking to her legacy as they pave their own trail. “I would have loved to have known her,” says Grace, glancing once more at the photo of her great-great-grandmother. "I love hearing that she did what she loved and she didn’t let anyone stop her.”

THE THE PEETNEET PEETNEET ACADEMY ACADEMY Built in 1901, The Peteetneet Academy, located at 10 S. 600 East, served students in Payson until its closure in the 1980s. Named to honor a local chief of the Timpanogos Tribe, the school was scheduled for demolition until concerned citizens stepped in to preserve the building and create a museum highlighting the area’s history. The museum has been shut down during the pandemic, but usually welcomes visitors Monday through Friday from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. peteetneetmuseum.org

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ON THE TABLE |

T R E N D S

D I N I N G

PHOTO KAITLYN CHRISTY

F O O D

MAD DOUGHNUTS:SEE NEXT PAGE

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ON THE TABLE

Learn more about Mad Dough through their website maddoughslc.com or find them on Instagram @maddoughslc

Q: How did you get started? A: COVID hit and like many people I lost my job, So I just started baking and started Mad Dough in my apartment kitchen at the end of April. In August, we migrated to Comcom Kitchen, where we sell doughnuts out of now, and we’ve been able to offer delivery through our website. Q: Where did the name come from? A: I wanted it to be really simple “Madsen Doughnuts” because my last name is Madsen. But then my cousin was like, ‘Duuhh ... MAD DOUGH!’ And, of course, I passed out! How could we not be Mad Dough? Q: How are you faring during

Mandy Madsen is proof that you can’t keep a good doughnut down BY K AITLYN CHRIST Y

right colors, smiles and sunshine are just a few words that come to mind when trying to describe Mandy Madsen’s wild energy. She didn’t let losing her job due to COVID-19 bring down her cheer. Instead, she put her energy into creating Mad Dough SLC, a top-quality bismarkstyle doughnut shop that started in her

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apartment kitchen with unique flavors inspired by the nostalgia of your favorite childhood treats. These doughnuts are brightening our days with fun twists and dazzling decorations. It’s like sunshine in a box. We sat down with for a Q&A with Madsen, the owner/pastry chef and mad scientist behind Mad Dough.

A: We started during COVID. So at first, delivery was a no brainer. We slapped a sunshine smile on the box and started spreading our sweet, creamfilled sunshine like nobody’s business. Q: What are your hopes for the future? A: I have wild dreams. But as far as Mad Dough goes, I would LOVE a brick and mortar soon. It will be the cutest store you’ve ever seen.

PHOTO KAITLYN CHRISTY

THIS DOUGH IS MAD

these difficult times of COVID?

WHERE TO EAT A select list of the best restaurants in Utah, curated and edited by

American Fine Dining ARLO

271 N. Center St, SLC, 385-266-8845. arlorestaurant.com

Chef Milo Carrier has created a destination in a small, charming house at the top of the Marmalade neighborhood. A fresh approach and locally sourced ingredients are the root of a menu that bridges fine and casual dining, at once sophisticated and homey.

BAMBARA

202 S. Main St., SLC, 801-363-5454. bambara-slc.com

Chef Nathan Powers makes decisions about food based on sustainability and the belief that good food should be available to everybody. Using a Burgundian imagination, he turns out dishes with a sophisticated heartiness three times a day.

Offering gracious dining in Draper, Chef Marco Silva draws from many culinary traditions to compose his classic but exciting menu—artichoke souffle, braised halibut, ratatouille. The setting, in an old house surrounded by gardens, is lovely and we love his high standards: No kids under 11 Friday and Saturday evenings and an indoor dress code.

LA CAILLE

9565 Wasatch Blvd., Sandy, 801-942-1751. lacaille.com

Utah’s original glamour girl has regained her luster. The grounds are as beautiful as ever; additions are functional, like a greenhouse, grapevines and vegetable gardens, all supplying the kitchen and cellar. The interior has been refreshed and the menu by Chef Billy Sotelo has today’s tastes in mind. Treat yourself.

GRAND AMERICA

555 S. Main St., SLC, 801-258-6708. grandamerica.com

Grand America Hotel’s Garden Cafe is one of the dinner stars of the city, and the kitchen makes sure other meals here are up to the same standard. The setting here is traditionally elegant but don’t be intimidated. The food shows sophisticated invention, but you can also get a great sandwich or burger.

HAofLL

6451 E. Millcreek Canyon Road, SLC, 801-272-8255. log-haven.com

Certainly Salt Lake’s most picturesque restaurant, the old log cabin is pretty in every season. Chef Dave Jones has a sure hand with American vernacular and is not afraid of frying although he also has a way with healthy, low-calorie, high-energy food. And he’s an expert with local and foraged foods.

418 E. 200 South, SLC, 801-539-9999. hslrestaurant.com

The initials stand for “Handle Salt Lake”— Chef Briar Handly made his name with his Park city restaurant, Handle, and now he’s

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2019 Salt Lake magazine Dining Award Winner

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Listings

opened a second restaurant down the hill. The place splits the difference between “fine” and “casual” dining; the innovative food is excellent and the atmosphere is casually convivial. The menu is unique—just trust this chef. It’s all excellent.

1229 E Pioneer Rd., Draper, 801-550-9348. thecharlestondraper.com

This selective guide has no relationship to any advertising in the magazine. Review visits are anonymous, and all expenses are paid by Salt Lake magazine.

THE CHARLESTON

SALT LAKE CITY & THE WASATCH FRONT

Salt Lake magazine

HAofLL

FA M E

Dining Award Hall Of Fame Winner

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Quintessential Utah

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ON THE TABLE

MYSTERIOUS MUSHROOMS Mushrooms are one of the strangest and most delicious foods to enter our kitchens.

OYSTER Yes, they look like oysters growing horizontally from a tree. Some say they have a vaguely oyster-like taste. They’re generally eaten cooked and are popular in Korean, Japanese and Chinese cooking.

ENOKI Lovely, long and white, cultivated enoki are used in Japanese cuisine, notably in soups. Generally eaten raw or barely cooked.

SHIITAKE Native to East Asia and used beyond the kitchen, Shitake are widely believed to have medicinal uses as well.

MORELS With their distinctive tall honeycombed caps, morels are easy to identify, even though they come in a range of colors, from pale beige to gray. Morels are still harvested wild.

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BY MARY BROWN MALOUF

hey’re neither animal nor vegetable, they can be hard to find yet they sprout everywhere, they can be poisonous or curative. Their spores can even survive in outer space. But the meat of the matter is that mushrooms are unique, delicious and good for you. In the recent film, Fantastic Fungi, Paul Stamets, Michael Pollan and other experts say that mushrooms can save the world, or at least parts of it. According to the mycologists quoted in the film, mushrooms hold answers to disease, pollution, anxiety, depression and global warming. There they are, right underfoot. Mycologists point out to the intricate network mycelia (that’s mushrooms and other fungus) form between the roots of trees, allowing them PORCINI to communicate. They Popular in Italian cooking, attribute all kinds of healing porcini are used fresh or dried and add a deep, nutty properties to various flavor to a dish. mushrooms—cancer, infection, viruses can all be helped with the right kind of mushroom. We’re only going as far as eyebrowraising—we’ll leave consciousness-raising And before you raise your eyebrows properties for other articles. The fact is that through the roof, remember that penicillin mushrooms are an incredibly interesting life comes from a kind of fungus. The first form, probably under used by humans, with statins—cholesterol-lowering medications— under-recognized health value. were derived from mushrooms, and And, our main point: mushrooms are antibiotics like cyclosporin have been found incredibly tasty. via mushrooms.

BLUE PAGO PLATE 878 S. 900 East, SLC, 801-5320777. pagoslc.com

Tiny, dynamic and food-driven, Pago’s ingredients are locally sourced and reimagined regularly. That’s why it’s often so crowded and that’s what makes it one of the best restaurants in the state. The list of wines by the glass is great, but the artisanal cocktails are also a treat.

CITRIS GRILL

HUB & SPOKE DINER

Most dishes come in either “hearty” or “petite” portion sizes. This means you can enjoy a smoked salmon pizzetta or fried rock shrimp appetizer and then a petite order of fire-roasted pork chops with adobo rub and black bean–corn salsa. Expect crowds.

Scott Evans’ (Pago, Finca) diner serves the traditional three a day with an untraditional inventiveness applied to traditional recipes. Like, artisanal grilled cheese with spiked milkshakes. And mac and cheese made with spaetzle. Breakfast is king here—expect a line.

3977 S. Wasatch Blvd, SLC, 801-466-1202. citrisgrill.com

COPPER KITCHEN PROVISIONS

4640 S. 2300 East, Holladay, 385-2373159. copperkitchenslc.com

With Chef Tyler Stokes’ bright, fresh approach to American craft cuisine (and a bright, fresh atmosphere to eat it in), Provision strives for handmade and local ideals executed with style and a little humor.

A welcome addition to Holladay, Ryan Lowder’s Copper Kitchen reprises his downtown Copper Onion and Copper Common success with variations. The menu is different, but the heartiness is the same; the interior is different but the easy, hip atmosphere is the same, and the decibel levels are very similar.

3364 S. 2300 East, SLC, 801-410-4046. slcprovisions.com

TABLE X

1457 E. 3350 South, SLC, 385-528-3712. tablexrestaurant.com

A trio of chefs collaborate on a forward-thinking thoroughly artisanal menu—vegetables are treated as creatively as proteins (smoked sunchoke, chile-cured pumpkin, barbecued cannelini beans,) bread and butter are made in-house and ingredients are the best (Solstice chocolate cake.) Expect surprises.

American Casual BLUE LEMON

55 W. South Temple, SLC, 801-328-2583. bluelemon.com

Blue Lemon’s sleek interior and high-concept food have city style. Informal but chic, many-flavored but healthy, Blue Lemon’s unique take on food and service is a happy change from downtown’s food-as-usual.

BLUE PLATE DINER 2041 S. 2100 East, SLC, 801-463-1151.

Formica tables, linoleum floors, Elvis kitsch and tunes on the jukebox make this an all-American fave, along with comfort food classics like pancakes, patty melts and chicken-fried steak in sausage gravy over smashed potatoes and veggie burgers.

CAFE NICHE

779 E. 300 South, SLC, 801-433-3380. caffeniche.com

Anytime is the best time to eat here. Food comes from farms all over northern Utah and the patio is a favorite in fine weather.

COPPER ONION

111 E. Broadway, SLC, 801-355-3282. thecopperonion.com

An instant hit when it opened, constant crowds attest to the continuing popularity of Ryan Lowder’s Copper Onion. Though the hearty, flavorful menu changes regularly, some favorites never leave: the mussels, the burger, the ricotta dumplings. Bank on the specials.

CUCINA

1026 E. Second Ave., SLC, 801-322-3055. cucinaslc.com

Cucina has added fine restaurant to its list of descriptors—good for lunch or a leisurely dinner. The menu has recently expanded to include small plates and substantial beer and wine-by-the-glass lists.

THE DODO

1291 S. 1100 East, SLC, 801-487-0698. hubandspokediner.com

LEFT FORK GRILL

68 W. 3900 South, SLC, 801-266-4322. leftforkgrill.ipower.com

Every booth comes with its own dedicated pie shelf. Because no matter what you’re eating—liver and onions, raspberry pancakes, meatloaf or a reuben—you’ll want to save room for pie. Tip: Order your favorite pie first, in case they run out. Now serving beer and wine.

LITTLE AMERICA COFFEE SHOP

500 S. Main Street, SLC, 801-596-5704. saltlake.littleamerica.com

Little America has been the favorite gathering place for generations of native Salt Lakers. Weekdays, you’ll find the city power players breakfasting in the coffee shop.

LONDON BELLE SUPPER CLUB 321 Main Street, SLC 801-363-8888. londonbelleslc.com

It’s a combo deal—restaurant and bar. That means you have to be over 21 to enter but it also means that you can stay in one place all evening. Their kitchen serves up everything from duck confit nachos to their signature 12 oz Niman Ranch ribeye.

MOOCHIE’S

1355 E. 2100 South, SLC, 801-486-2473. thedodorestaurant.com

232 E. 800 South, SLC, 801-596-1350; 7725 S. State St., Midvale, 801-562-1500. moochiesmeatballs.com

It’s hard even to update the review of this venerable bistro. So much stays the same. But, like I always say, it’s nice to know where to get quiche when you want it. And our raspberry crepes were great. Yes, I said crepes. From the same era as quiche.

This itty-bitty eatery/take-out joint is the place to go for authentic cheesesteaks made with thinly sliced steak and griddled onions glued together with good ol’ American cheese and wrapped in a big, soft so-called French roll.

EPICURE

NOMAD EATERY

American food here borrows from other cuisines. Save room for pineapple sorbet with stewed fresh pineapple.

Fast and casual, but it’s also chef-driven— pizzas and burgers and salads, all carefully crafted. Be sure to order one of the ice cream desserts from Normal.

707 E. Fort Union Blvd., Midvale, 801-7481300. epicureslc.com

1722 Fremont Dr. #2, SLC, 801-938-9629. nomad-eatery.com

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ON THE TABLE

CLASSIC

SPEAK OF THE DEVIL

Step 1: Mash yolks from 6 hard-boiled eggs. Add 1/4 tablespoon mayonnaise (or yogurt), 1/2 teaspoon ground mustard, pinch of salt, 1/4 teaspoon pepper. Step 2: Fill the halved egg whites with the yolk mixture. Sprinkle with paprika.

We’ve hatched four devilishly delicious recipes for boiled eggs. BY MARY BROWN MALOUF

ou might not care that the deviled egg can be traced back to ancient Rome. Or that deviling refers to using seasonings to make foods spicy. Or that deviled eggs are very on-trend and are starring on the menus of many of today’s top restaurants. All this knowledge is secondary to your simple need for hard-boiled egg recipes. Well, dare we say, it’s time to get cracking.

BACON & PAPRIKA Begin with Classic recipe’s step 1. Stir in 2 strips bacon, cooked and crumbled. Fill the halved egg whites with the yolk mixture. Sprinkle with paprika and garnish with a bacon bit.

WASABI & UNAGI Begin with Classic recipe’s step 1. Stir in 1 1/2 teaspoons Chinese mustard, 1 teaspoon wasabi paste. Fill the halved egg whites with the yolk mixture. Top with unagi.

HOW TO (REALLY):

BOIL AN EGG

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SRIRACHA & CILANTRO Begin with Classic recipe’s step 1. Stir in 2 Tablespoons chopped green onions. Fill the halved egg whites with the yolk mixture. Top with 2-3 stripes of Sriracha sauce; sprinkle with paprika and top with a cilantro leaf.

PHOTOS ADAM FINKLE

Place eggs in a saucepan and cover with cold water. Bring water to a rolling boil, then remove pan from heat and cover. Let eggs remain in the water for 15 minutes. Drain eggs and put them in a bowl filled with ice water. Wait half an hour, then carefully peel.

NOMAD EATERY EAST

1675 E. 1300 South, SLC, 801-883-9791. nomad-eatery.com

Nomad East is cousin to the Eaatery (above) but it’s in the charmed location on 1300 South where Eggs in the City used to be. Everything here is cooked in a pizza oven, even the roasted chicken (a must-have.) Chef Justin is a salad wizard. Fun and excellence combined.

OASIS CAFE

every Tuesday, Porcupine has practically created its own holiday. Chicken noodle soup has homemade noodles and lots of chicken. Burgers and chile verde burritos are good, too.

ROOTS CAFÉ

3474 S. 2300 East, East Millcreek, 801-277-6499. rootscafeslc.com

A charming little daytime cafe in Millcreek with a wholesome granola vibe.

151 S. 500 East, SLC, 801-322-0404. oasiscafeslc.com

Oasis has a New Age vibe, but the food’s only agenda is taste. Lots of veg options, but meat, too. The German pancakes are wonderful, but its evening menu suits the space—being both imaginative and refreshing.

ONE-0-EIGHT

1709 E. 1300 South, 801-906-8101. one-0-eight.com

One of the most delightful venues in town, especially in nice weather. Salads and vegetables stand out because of their extreme freshness—ingredients from Frog Bench Farms in the city. Pizza is also a standout.

OQUIRRH

368 E. 100 South, 801-359-0426. oquirrhslc.com

Little and original chef-owned bistro offers a menu of inventive and delicious dishes— whole curried lamb leg, chicken confit pot pie, milk-braised potatoes—it’s all excellent.

PIG AND A JELLY JAR

401 E. 900 South, SLC, 385-202-7366. 227 25th St., Ogden, 801-605-8400. 1968 E. Murray Holladay Rd. Holladay, 385-6955148. pigandajellyjar.com

Great chicken and waffles, local eggs, and other breakfasts are served all day, with homestyle additions at lunch and supper on Thursdays through Sundays.

PORCH

11274 Kestrel Rise Road, Bldg. C, South Jordan, 801-679-1066. porchutah.com

A chef-owned restaurant in the new urban community of Daybreak, this sleek little cafe was conceived by Meditrina owner Jen Gilroy and focuses on locally-sourced cuisine with southern touches.

PORCUPINE PUB AND GRILLE 3698 E. Fort Union Blvd., SLC, 801-9425555, SLC. porcupinepub.com

RUTH’S DINER

2100 Emigration Canyon, SLC, 801-582-5807. ruthsdiner.com

The original funky trolley car is almost buried by the beer garden in fine weather, but Ruth’s still serves up diner food in a low-key setting, and the patio is one of the best. Collegiate fare like burgers, BLTs and enchiladas in big portions rule here. The giant biscuits come with every meal, and the chocolate pudding should.

RYE

239 S. 500 East, SLC, 801-364-4655. ryeslc.com

The food rocks at this hip version of a diner connected to Urban Lounge. At breakfast (which lasts until 2 p.m.), the soft scrambles or the waffles with whiskey syrup are called for. Call to confirm hours—right now it’s open for weekend dinners.

SILVER FORK LODGE

11332 E. Big Cottonwood Canyon, Brighton, 801-533-9977. silverforklodge.com

Silver Fork’s kitchen handles three daily meals beautifully. Try pancakes made with a 50-year-old sourdough starter. Don’t miss the smoked trout and brie appetizer.

STELLA GRILL

TRADITIONS

501 E. 900 South, SLC, 385-202-7167. traditionslc.com

Plan your meal knowing there will be pie at the end of it. Then snack on pigs-in-blankets (sausage from artisan butcher Beltex) and funeral potatoes. Fried chicken, braised pork, chicken and dumplings are equally homey. Then, pie.

Bakeries AMOUR CAFE

1329 S. 500 East, SLC, 801-467-2947. amourslc.com

The jammin’ duo John and Casee Francis have a home for their Amour Fruit Spreads business, sharing space with a brightlylighted cafe and plenty of fresh pastry. Plus, gelato.

BAKING HIVE

3362 S. 2300 East, East Millcreek, 801-419-0187. bakinghive.com

Tucked behind Provisions restaurant, this homespun bakery uses real butter and cream. Classes allow kids to ice and decorate their own cakes and they offer gluten-free options, too.

BAGEL PROJECT

779 S. 500 East, SLC, 801-906-0698. bagelproject.com

“Real” bagels are the whole story here, made by a homesick East Coaster. Of course, there’s no New York water to make them with, but other than that, these are as authentic as SLC can get.

THE BIG O DOUGHNUT

248 W. 900 South, SLC, 385-770-7024 bigodoughnuts.square.site/home

4291 S. 900 East, SLC, 801-288-0051. stellagrill.com

Vegan. Doughnuts. Need we say more? Blueberry-lavender, tofutti cream cheese, etc.

A cool little arts-and-crafts-style café, Stella is balanced between trendy and tried-and-true. The careful cooking comes with moderate prices. Great for lunch.

BISCOTT’S

TIBURON

8256 S. 700 East, Sandy, 801-255-1200. tiburonfinedining.com

Servings at Tiburon are large and rich: elk tenderloin was enriched with mushrooms and demi-glace; a big, creamy wedge of St. Andre came with pork belly. In summer, tomatoes come from the garden.

1098 W. Jordan Pkwy., South Jordan, 801890-0659. biscotts.com

An Anglo-Indian teahouse, Lavanya Mahate’s (Saffron Valley) latest eatery draws from intertwined cultures, serving tea and chai, English treats and French pastries with a hint of subcontinental spice.

With 24 beers on tap available for only $2

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ON THE TABLE CARLUCCI’S BAKERY PASTRIES

314 W. 300 South, SLC, 801-366-4484. carluccisbakery.com

Plus a few hot dishes make this a fave morning stop. For lunch, try the herbed goat cheese on a chewy baguette.

CITY CAKES & CAFE

1860 S. 300 West, SLC, 801-359-2239. 192 E. 12300 South, Draper, 801-572-5500. citycakescafe.com

Gluten-free that is so good you’ll never miss it. Or the dairy—City Cakes has vegan goodies, too. And epic vegan mac n’ chezah.

EVA’S BOULANGERIE

155 S. Main St., SLC, 801-359-8447. evasbakeryslc.com

A smart French-style cafe and bakery in the heart of downtown. Different bakers are behind the patisserie and the boulangerie, meaning sweet and daily breads get the attention they deserve. Go for classics like onion soup and croque monsieur, but don’t ignore other specials and always leave with at least one loaf of bread.

FILLINGS & EMULSIONS

1475 S. Main St., SLC, 385-229-4228. fillingsandemulsions.com

This little West-side bakery is worth finding—its unusual pastries find their way into many of Salt Lake’s fine restaurants. Pastry Chef Adelberto Diaz combines his classical French training with the tropical flavors of his homeland. The results are startlingly good and different.

250 S. 300 East, SLC, 801-328-3330. gourmandisethebakery.com

This downtown mainstay has cheesecakes, cannoli, napoleons, pies, cookies, muffins and flaky croissants. And don’t forget breads and rolls to take home.

LA BONNE VIE

555 S. Main St., SLC, 800-621-4505. grandamerica.com

Cuter than a cupcake, Grand America’s pastry shop has all the charm of Paris. The pretty windows alone are worth a visit.

LES MADELEINES

216 E. 500 South, SLC, 801-355-2294. lesmadeleines.com

The kouign aman still reigns supreme

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MRS. BACKER’S PASTRY SHOP

434 E. South Temple, SLC, 801532-2022. mrsbackers.com

A Salt Lake tradition, Mrs. Backer’s is a butter cream fantasy. Fantastic colors, explosions of flowers, most keyed to the current holiday created from American-style butter cream icing, fill this old-fashioned shop.

RUBY SNAP FRESH COOKIES

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R AND R

307 W. 600 South, SLC, 801-364-0443. Other locations. randrbbq.com

Owned by brothers Rod and Roger Livingston, winners on the competitive barbecue circuit. Ribs and brisket star, but fried okra steals the show.

THE SUGARHOUSE BARBECUE COMPANY

880 E. 2100 South, SLC, 801-463-4800. sugarhousebbq.com

This place is a winner for pulled pork, Texas brisket or Memphis ribs. Plus killer sides, like Greek potatoes.

770 S. 300 West, SLC UT, -801-834-6111. rubysnap.com

The Trudy, Ruby Snap’s classic chocolatechip cookie. But it’s just a gateway into the menu of delicious fresh cookies behind the counter at Ruby Snap’s retro-chic shop on Salt Lake’s west side.

Bar Grub & Brewpubs

SO CUPCAKE

376 8th Ave., SLC, 385-227-8628. avenuesproper.com

3939 S. Highland Dr., SLC, 801-274-8300. socupcake.com

Choose a mini or a full cake, mix and match cakes and icings, or try a house creation, like Hanky Panky Red Velvet.

TULIE BAKERY

863 E. 700 South, SLC, 801-883-9741. tuilebakery.com

You can get a little spiritual about pastries this good on a Sunday morning, but at Tulie you can be just as uplifted by a Wednesday lunch.

VOSEN’S BREAD PARADISE

GOURMANDISE

among Salt Lake City pastries, but with a hot breakfast menu and lunch options, Les Mad is more than a great bakery.

328 W. 200 South, SLC, 801-322-2424. vosen.com

This German-style bakery’s cases are full of Eifelbrot, Schwarzbrot, Krustenbrot and lots of other Brots as well as sweet pastries and fantastic Berliners.

Barbecue & Southern Food PAT’S BARBECUE

155 E. Commonwealth, SLC, 801-484-5963. patsbbq.com

One of Salt Lake City’s best, Pat’s brisket, pork and ribs deserve the spotlight but sides are notable here, too. Don’t miss “Burnt End Fridays.”

(Also check bar listings.)

AVENUES PROPER PUBLICK HOUSE It’s a restaurant and brewpub, with the emphasis on small plates and late hours. The food is inventive, the beer is good and—big plus—they serve cocktails as well as brew at this neighborhood hot spot.

BOHEMIAN BREWERY & GRILL 94 E. Fort Union Blvd., Midvale, 801-566-5474. bohemianbrewery.com

Bohemian keeps a firm connection to its cultural history—so to go with the wonderful Czech beer, you can nosh on potato pancakes, pork chops and goulash. There’s also plenty of American beer fare.

LEVEL CROSSING BREWERY 2496 West Temple, SLC, 385-270-5752. levelcrossingbrewing.com

Going out to grab a beer with your closest circle, your homies, in South Salt Lake. Crafted beers come with a light fare menu offering a vegan wrap, BLT or classic Italian hoagie.

THE PUB’S DESERT EDGE BREWERY

273 Trolley Square, SLC, 801-521-8917. desertedgebrewery.com

Good pub fare and freshly brewed beer make this a hot spot for shoppers, the business crowd and ski bums.

THE RED ROCK BREWING COMPANY

MILLCREEK CAFÉ & EGG WORKS

Red Rock proves the pleasure of beer on its own and as a complement to pizzas, rotisserie chicken and chile polenta. Not to mention brunch. Also in the Fashion Place Mall.

This spiffy neighborhood place is open for lunch, but breakfast is the game. Items like a chile verde–smothered breakfast wrap and the pancakes offer serious sustenance.

254 S. 200 West, SLC, 801-521-7446. redrockbrewing.com

BLUE PLATE

SQUATTERS PUB BREWERY

147 W. Broadway, SLC, 801-363-2739. squatters.com

One of the “greenest” restaurants in town, Squatters brews award-winning beers and pairs them with everything from wings to ahi tacos.

WASATCH BREW PUB

2110 S. Highland Dr., SLC, 801-783-1127. wasatchbrewpub.com

Part of the same mega “boutique” group that produces Squatters and Wasatch beers and runs the pubs in Salt Lake City and Park City with those names, this extension is everything you expect a brewpub to be—hearty food, convivial atmosphere, lots of beer and a great late-ish option.

Breakfast/Lunch Only THE DAILY

222 Main St., SLC, 385-322-1270. thedailyslc.com

Chef Ryan Lowder’s only non-Copper restaurant (Onion, Commons, Kitchen) is open all day for breakfast, lunch and noshing. Call in and pick up lunch, stop in and linger over Stumptown coffee, take some pastries to go and don’t miss the biscuits.

EGGS IN THE CITY

2795 South 2300 East, SLC, 801-581-0809. eggsinthecity.com

A familiar face in a whole new space—the favored breakfast joint has moved to Millcreek. Hip and homey, all at once.

FINN’S

1624 S. 1100 East, SLC, 801-467-4000. finnscafe.net

The Scandinavian vibe comes from the heritage of owner Finn Gurholt. At lunch, try the Nordic sandwiches, but Finn’s is most famous for breakfast (best pancakes in town), served until the doors close at 2:30 p.m.

3084 E. 3300 South, SLC, 801-485-1134. millcreekcafeandeggworks.com

PUBLIK KITCHEN

931 E. 900 South, SLC, 385-229-4205. publikcoffee.com

Same ownership as Publik coffee, only the Kitchen has a more extensive menu. Don’t miss the BLT, made with tomato jam.

SHAKE SHACK

776 N Terminal Dr. shakeshack.com

Burgers, Sandwiches, Delis DIVERSIONS

535 N. 300 West, SLC, 801-657-7327. diversioneatery.com

Much-needed neighborhood eatery serving burgers, dogs, chili and fries. Try the “burger bowl”—just what it sounds like and twice as messy.

FELDMAN’S DELI

2005 E. 2700 South, SLC, 801-906-0369. feldmansdeli.com

Finally, SLC has a Jewish deli worthy of the name. Stop by for your hot pastrami fix or to satisfy your latke craving or your yen for knishes.

J DAWGS

341 Main St, SLC, 801-438-6111. jdawgs.com

All big and all natural, whether you choose Polish or all-beef. The buns are made fresh daily. The special sauce is a family recipe. Opt for peppers, onions, sauerkraut and/or pickles, add a bag of chips and that’s the full meal here.

PRETTY BIRD CHICKEN 145 S. Regent St., SLC. prettybirdchicken.com

Chances are you’ll still have to wait in line at Chef Viet Pham’s Nashville hot chicken. There is really only one thing on the menu— spicy fried chicken on a bun or on a plate. Go early—Pretty Bird closes when the kitchen runs out of chicken.

PROPER BURGER AND PROPER BREWING 865 Main St., 801-906-8607. properburgerslc.com

Sibling to Avenues Proper, the new place has expanded brewing and burger capacity, two big shared patios. And ski-ball.

The national favorite has landed in Utah and surely there will be more to come. Danny Meyer’s all–American favorite serves burgers, mediocre fries and milkshakes, along with other fast food faves. Play board games and try one of their super cool shake flavors.

SIEGFRIED’S

20 W. 200 South, SLC, 801-355-3891. siegfriedsdelicatessen.com

The only German deli in town is packed with customers ordering bratwurst, wiener schnitzel, sauerkraut and spaetzle.

TONYBURGERS

613 E. 400 South, SLC, 801-410-0531. tonyburgers.com

This home-grown burger house serves freshground beef, toasted buns, twice-fried potatoes and milkshakes made with real scoops of ice cream.

Coffee CAFFE D’BOLLA

249 E. 400 South, SLC, 801-355-1398. caffedbolla.com

John Piquet is a coffee wizard—a cup of his specially roasted siphon brews is like no other cup of coffee in the state. His wife, Yiching, is an excellent baker.

LA BARBA

327 W. 200 South, SLC, 385) 429-0224. labarbacoffee.com

Owned by locally owned coffee roasters—a favorite with many local restaurants—this little cafe off of George serves coffee, tea, chocolate and pastries.

CAMPOS COFFEE ROASTERY & KITCHEN 228 S. Edison St., SLC, 801-953-1512. us.camposcoffee.com

An Australian coffee bar, this particular outpost has the added amenity of a kitchen and rooftop seating in season.

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ON THE TABLE PUBLIK

975 S. Temple, SLC, 801-355-3161; 638 Park Ave., Park City, 435-200-8693. publikcoffee.com

Serving the latest in great coffee; the oldschool java joint made for long conversations; a neo-cafe where you can park with your laptop and get some solo work done.

SALT LAKE ROASTING COMPANY

9 S Rio Grande St, SLC, 801-748-4887. roasting.com

SLC’s original coffee shop owner John Bolton buys and roasts the better-than-fairtrade beans.

Central & South American AREMPA’S

350 E. State St., SLC, 385-301-8905. arempas.com

Happy, casual Venezuelan food—arepas, tequenos, cachapas—basically everything is cornmeal filled with pulled beef, chicken or pork and fried. But—also the same fillings between slices of plantains. And a chocolate filled tequena.

BRAZA GRILL

5927 S. State St., Murray, 801-506-7788. brazagrillutah.com

Meat, meat and more meat is the order of the day at this Brazilian-style churrascaria buffet.

DEL MAR AL LAGO

310 Bugatti Drive, SLC, 801-467-2890.

A gem from Peru—the best selection of cebicha in town, plus other probably unexplored culinary territory deliciously mapped by this kitchen.

RODIZIO GRILL

600 S. 700 East, SLC, 801-220-0500. rodiziogrill.com

The salad bar offers plenty to eat, but the best bang for the buck is the Full Rodizio, a selection of meats—turkey, chicken, beef, pork, seafood and more—plus vegetables and pineapple, brought to your table until you cry “uncle.”

TEXAS DE BRAZIL

City Creek Center, 50 S. Main St., SLC, 801232-8070. texasdebrazil.com

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The Brazilian-style churrascaria offers allyou-can-eat grilled meat, carved tableside and complemented by a mammoth salad bar.

Chinese & Pan-Asian ASIAN STAR

7588 S. Union Park Ave., Midvale, 801-5668838. asianstarrestaurant.com

The menu is not frighteningly authentic or disturbingly Americanized. Dishes are chefdriven, and Chef James seems most comfortable in the melting pot.

BOBA WORLD

512 W. 750 South, Woods Cross, 801-2983626. bobaworld.blogspot.com

This mom-and-pop place is short on chic, but the food on the plate provides all the ambiance you need. Try the scallion pancakes, try the Shanghai Fat Noodles, heck, try the kung pao chicken. It’s all good.

GINGER STREET

224 S. State St., SLC., 385-477-4975. gingerstreet.com

Chef Tyler Stokes, who owns Provisions, owns Ginger Street indulging his passion for Southeast Asian food, and providing an alternative for downtown diners. The fastcasual concept offers spins of classic dishes like dan-dan noodles and dumplings.

HONG KONG TEA HOUSE & RESTAURANT 565 W. 200 South, SLC, 801-531-7010. hongkongteahouse.yolasite.com

Authentic, pristine and slightly weird is what we look for in Chinese food. Tea House does honorable renditions of favorites, but it is a rewarding place to go explore.

J. WONG’S ASIAN BISTRO

163 W. 200 South, SLC, 801-350-0888. jwongs.com

Drawing from their Thai and Chinese heritage, J. Wong’s menu allows you to choose either. Lunch—Chinese or Thai—isn’t a good deal. It’s a great deal. Don’t miss the ginger whole fish or the Gunpowder cocktail. Call ahead for authentic Peking duck.

French/European BRUGES WAFFLE AND FRITES

336 W. Broadway, SLC, 801-363-4444; 2314 S. Highland Dr., 801-486-9999; 541 E.

12300 South, Draper, 801-251-0152. brugeswaffles.com

The original tiny shop turns out waffles made with pearl sugar. Plus frites, Belgian beef stew and a gargantuan sandwich called a mitraillette with merguez. Other locations have bigger menus.

CAFÉ MADRID

5244 S. Highland Dr., Holladay, 801-273-0837. cafemadrid.net

Authentic dishes like garlic soup share the menu with port-sauced lamb shank. Service is courteous and friendly at this familyowned spot.

FRANCK’S

6263 S. Holladay Blvd., SLC, 801-274-6264. francksfood.com

Founding chef Franck Peissel’s influence can still be tasted—personal interpretations of continental classics. Some, like the meatloaf, are perennials, but mostly the menu changes according to season and the current chef’s whim.

MONSIEUR CREPE

1617 S. 900 East, SLC, 801-259-5843. monsieurcrepe.com

This French-style creperie offering both savory—Brie, prosciutto, tomato—and sweet—whipped cream, fruit, chocolate— fillings. The famous Gallic pancake evolved from a food truck into a charming cafe with a very pretty patio.

Indian BOMBAY HOUSE

2731 E. Parley’s Way, SLC, 801-581-0222; 463 N. University Ave., Provo, 801-373-6677; 7726 Campus View Dr., West Jordan, 801-282-0777. bombayhouse.com

This biryani mainstay is sublimely satisfying, from the wise-cracking Sikh host to the friendly server, from the vegetarian entrees to the tandoor-grilled delights. No wonder it’s been Salt Lake’s favorite subcontinental restaurant for 20 years.

CURRY IN A HURRY

2020 S. State St., SLC, 801-467-4137. ilovecurryinahurry.com

The Nisar family’s restaurant is tiny, but fast service and fair prices make this a great take-out spot. But if you opt to dine in, there’s always a Bollywood film on the telly.

HIMALAYAN KITCHEN

360 S. State St., SLC, 801-328-2077. himalayankitchen.com

Indian-Nepalese restaurant with an everexpanding menu. Start the meal with momos, fat little dumplings like pot stickers. All the tandoor dishes are good, but Himalayan food is rare, so go for the quanty masala, a stew made of nine different beans.

KATHMANDU

3142 S. Highland Dr., SLC, 801-466-3504. thekathmandu.net

Try the Nepalese specialties, including spicy pickles to set off the tandoor-roasted meats. Both goat and sami, a kibbeh-like mixture of ground lamb and lentils, are available in several styles.

ROYAL INDIA

10263 S. 1300 East, Sandy, 801-572-6123; 55 N. Main St., Bountiful, 801-292-1835. royalindiautah.com

Northern Indian tikka masalas and Southern Indian dosas allow diners to enjoy the full range of Indian cuisine.

SAFFRON VALLEY EAST INDIA CAFE 26 East St., SLC, 801-203-3325. saffronvalley.com

Lavanya Mahate has imported her style of Indian cooking from South Jordan to SLC. Besides terrific lunch and dinner menus, East Indian Cafe offers regular celebrations of specialties like Indian street food or kebabs. Stay tuned.

SAFFRON VALLEY

1098 W. South Jordan Parkway, South Jordan, 801-438-4823. saffronvalley.com

Highlighting South Indian street food, one of the glories of subcontinental cuisine, Lavanya Mahate’s restaurant is a cultural as well as culinary center, offering cooking classes, specialty groceries and celebration as well as great food.

SAFFRON VALLEY

479 E. 2100 South, SLC, 801-203-3754. saffronvalley.com

Yet another iteration of Lavanya Mahate’s vision of her homeland, this Saffron Valley location combines the best of her other three restaurants: Indian street foods, classic Indian and the Indian-Anglo bakery.

TANDOOR INDIAN GRILL

733 E. 3300 South, SLC, 801-486-4542.

tandoorindiangrill.com

Delicious salmon tandoori, sizzling on a plate with onions and peppers like fajitas, is mysteriously not overcooked. Friendly service.

Try the “pink” pizza, topped with ricotta and marinara. Vegan cheese is available, and there’s microbrew on tap.

MIA SICILIA

4536 Highland Dr., Millcreek, 801-274-0223. siciliamiautah.com

Italian & Pizza ARELLA’S

A family-run restaurant with a huge number of fans who love the food’s hearty and approachable style, friendly service and touches of show biz—famous for its pasta carbonara, prepared in a wheel of Parmesan.

Chic pizza in Bountiful. Arella’s pies appeal to pizza purists, traditionalists and adventurers, with wood-fired crusts and toppings that range from pear to jalapeño.

NUCH’S PIZZERIA

535 W. 400 North, Bountiful, 801-294-8800. arellapizzeria.com

CAFÉ TRIO

680 S. 900 East, SLC, 801-533-TRIO; triodining.com

Pizzas from the wood-fired brick oven are wonderful. One of the city’s premier and perennial lunch spots. Be sure to check out their weekly specials.

CAFFÉ MOLISE AND CAFFÉ MOLISE BTG

404 S. West Temple, SLC, 801-364-8833. caffemolise.com

The old Eagle building is a gorgeous setting for this city fave, with outdoor dining space and much more. Sibling wine bar BTG is under the same roof. Call for hours.

BLUE PLATE

CAPUTO’S MARKET AND DELI

314 W. 300 South, SLC, 801-5318669; 1516 S. 1500 East, SLC, 801-4866615. caputos.com

2819 S. 2300 East, SLC, 801-484-0448.

Nuchs-pizzeria-and-restaurant.com A New York–sized eatery (meaning tiny) offers big flavor via specialty pastas and wonderful bubbly crusted pizzas. Ricotta is made in house.

OSTERIA AMORE

224 S. 1300 East, SLC, 801 946-6917. psteriaamore.com

An offshoot of the ever-growing Sicilia Mia group, the food here is not highly original —expect carpaccio, fried octopus, all kinds of pasta and pizza in the nicely redesigned space.

PER NOI

3005 S. Highland Dr., SLC, 801-486-3333. pernoitrattoria.com

A little chef-owned, red sauce Italian spot catering to its neighborhood. Expect casual, your-hands-on service, hope they have enough glasses to accommodate the wine you bring, and order the spinach ravioli.

THE PIE PIZZERIA

A great selection of olive oils, imported pastas, salamis and house-aged cheeses, and the largest selections of fine chocolate in the country. The deli menu doesn’t reflect the market, but is a reliable source for meatball sandwiches and such.

Students can live, think and even thrive on a diet of pizza, beer and soft drinks, and The Pie is the quintessential college pizzeria. (There are other locations.)

CUCINA TOSCANA

PIZZERIA LIMONE

282 S. 300 West., SLC, 801-328-3463. toscanaslc.com

This longtime favorite turns out Italian classics like veal scaloppine, carbonara and a risotto of the day in a chic setting. A tiny cup of complimentary hot chocolate ends the meal.

ESTE PIZZA

2148 S. 900 East, SLC, 801-485-3699; 156 E. 200 South, SLC, 801-363-2366. estepizzaco.com

1320 E. 200 South, SLC, 801-5820193. thepie.com

613 E. 400 South; 1380 E. Fort Union Blvd., SLC, 801-733-9305. pizzerialimone.com

The signature pie at this local chain features thinly sliced lemons. Service is cafeteriastyle, meaning fast, and the pizza, salads and gelato are remarkably good.

PIZZA NONO

925 E. 900 South, SLC, 385-444-3530. pizzanono-slc.com

Small, kick-started pizzeria in 9th and 9th

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ON THE TABLE neighborhood has a limited but carefully sourced menu, a small but good list of wine and beer and an overflowing feeling of hospitality.

lowing into retro charm, though the glass chandelier is a bit nerve-wracking. The double-cut pork chop is classic, and so is the chocolate cake.

SALT LAKE PIZZA & PASTA

VALTER’S OSTERIA

And sandwiches and burgers and steak and fish. The menu here has expanded far beyond its name.

Valter Nassi’s restaurant overflows with his effervescent personality. The dining room is set up so Valter can be everywhere at once. Old favorites include a number of tableside dishes.

1061 E. 2100 South, SLC, 801-484-1804. saltlakepizzaandpasta.com

SETTEBELLO PIZZERIA

260 S. 200 West, SLC, 801-322-3556. settebello.net

Every Neapolitan-style pie here is handshaped by a pizza artisan and baked in a wood-fired oven. And they make great gelato right next door.

SICILIA MIA

4536 S. Highland Dr., Millcreek, 801-274-0223. siciliamiautah.com

The third in a trio of family-owned restaurants. They all recall Italian food of yesteryear.

SIRAGUSA’S TASTE OF ITALY 4115 Redwood Rd., SLC, 801-268-1520. siragusas.com

Another strip mall mom-and-pop find, the two dishes to look out for are sweet potato gnocchi and osso buco made with pork.

464 E. 300 South, SLC, 801-746-4441. stanzaslc.com

Chef Jonathon LeBlanc, brings a happy flair to this Italianesque restaurant. And Amber Billingsley is making the desserts. Va tutto bene!

STONEGROUND ITALIAN KITCHEN

249 E. 400 South, SLC, 801-364-1368. stonegrounditalian.com

The longtime pizza joint has blossomed into a full-scale Italian restaurant with chef Justin Shifflet in the kitchen making authentic sauces and fresh pasta. An appealing upstairs deck and a full craft bar complete the successful transformation. Oh yeah, they still serve pizza.

TUSCANY

2832 E. 6200 South, 801-274-0448. tuscanyslc.com

This restaurant’s faux-Tuscan kitsch is mel-

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VENETO RISTORANTE

370 E. 900 South, SLC, 801-359-0708. venetoslc.com

This small place, owned by Marco and Amy Stevanoni, strives to focus on one of the many regional cuisines we lump under the word “Italian.” Hence the name; and forget what you think you know about Italian food except the word “delizioso.”

Japanese ICHIBAN SUSHI

336 S. 400 East, SLC, 801-532-7522.

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165 W. 900 South, SLC, 801-917-3812. nohmslc.com

A genius Japanese restaurant specializing in robata and sushi. Chef-owner David Chon is more daring with his menu than most—this is a place for exploring. If you see something you’ve never tasted before, taste it here. Servers are happy to help.

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TAKASHI

18 W. Market St., SLC, 801-519-9595.

Takashi Gibo earned his acclaim by buying the freshest fish and serving it in politely eye-popping style. Check the chalkboard for specials like Thai mackerel, fatty tuna or spot prawns, and expect some of the best sushi in the city.

TOSH’S RAMEN

1465 State St., SLC, 801-466-7000. 1963 E. Murray Holladay Rd., SLC. toshsramen.com

Chef Tosh Sekikawa is our own ramen ranger. His long-simmered noodle-laden broths have a deservedly devoted following—meaning, go early. Now with a second location.

TSUNAMI

Sushi with a twist—like the spicy Funky Charlie Roll, tuna and wasabi filled, then fried.

2223 S. Highland Drive, SLC, 801-467-5545; 7628 S. Union Park Ave., Sandy, 801-6766466. tsunamiutah.com

KAZE

Besides sushi, the menu offers crispy-light tempura and numerous house cocktails and sake.

65. E. Broadway, SLC, 800-800-6768. kazesushiut.com

STANZA

173 W. Broadway, SLC, 801-521-4563. valtersosteria.com

NOHM

Small and stylish, Kaze has plenty to offer besides absolutely fresh fish and inventive combinations. Food is beautifully presented and especially for a small place the variety is impressive. A sake menu is taking shape and Kaze is open until midnight.

KOBE JAPANESE RESTAURANT

YOKO RAMEN

472 E. 400 South, SLC, 801-876-5267. yokoramenslc.com

More ramen! Utahns can’t seem to slurp enough of the big Japanese soup—Yoko serves it up for carnivores and vegans, plus offers some kinkier stuff like a Japanese Cubano sandwich and various pig parts.

3947 Wasatch Blvd., SLC, 802-277-2928. facebook.com/KobeJapaneseRestaurant

This is Mike’s place—Mike Fukumitsu, once at Kyoto, is the personality behind the sushi bar and the driving spirit in the restaurant. Perfectly fresh fish keeps a horde of regulars returning.

KYOTO

1080 E. 1300 South, SLC, 801-487-3525. kyotoslc.com

The service is friendly, the sushi is fresh, the tempura is amazingly light, and the prices are reasonable. Servings are occidentally large, and service is impeccable.

Mediterranean CAFÉ MED

420 E. 3300 South, SLC, 801-493-0100. medslc.com

Get the mezzes platter for some of the best falafel in town. Entrees range from pita sandwiches to gargantuan dinner platters of braised shortribs, roast chicken and pasta.

LAYLA

4751 S. Holladay Blvd., Holladay, 801-2729111. laylagrill.com

Layla relies on family recipes. The resulting standards, like hummus and kebabs, are great, but explore some of the more unusual dishes, too.

MAZZA

BLUE PLATE 1515 S. 1500 East, SLC, 801-4849259. mazzacafe.com

Excellent. With the bright flavor that is the hallmark of Middle Eastern food and a great range of dishes, Mazza has been a go-to for fine Lebanese food in SLC before there was much fine food at all.

MANOLI’S

402 E. 900 South, SLC, 801-532-3760. manolison9th.com

Manoli and Katrina Katsanevas have created a fresh modern approach to Greek food. Stylish small plates full of Greek flavors include Butternut-squash-filled tyropita, smoked feta in piquillo peppers and a stellar roast chicken.

PADELI’S

30 E. Broadway, SLC, 801-322-1111. padelisstreetgreek.com

One of Salt Lake’s original Greek restaurants, Greek Souvlaki, has opened a contemporary version of itself. Padeli’s also serves the classic street fare, but these excellent souvlaki come in a streamlined space modeled after Chipotle, Zao and other fast-but-not-fast-food stops. The perfect downtown lunch.

SPITZ DONER KEBAB

35 E. Broadway, SLC, 801-364-0286. spitzrestaurant.com

This California transplant specializes in what Utahns mostly know by their Greek name “gyros.” But that’s not the only attraction. Besides the food, Spitz has an energetic hipster vibe and a liquor license that make it an after-dark destination.

WE OLIVE

602 E. 500 South (in Trolley Square), SLC, 801-448-7489. weolive.com/salt-lake-city

It appears to be an extraordinary olive oil store, but tucked in the back is a great cafe and wine bar with a limited but delicious menu of panini, charcuterie, and other antipasti type dishes.

Mexican/Central American BARRIO

282 E. 900 South, SLC, 801-613-2251. barrioslc.com

A slick new taco bar with a slightly punk Mexican theme, Barrio offers the usual selection of tacos—everyone’s favorite food, outdoor seating on nice days, margaritas, beer and a selection of serve yourself salsas.

BLUE IGUANA

165 S. West Temple, SLC, 801-533-8900. blueiguanarestaurant.net

This colorful downtown restaurant has a charming downstairs location and patio, and has been a Salt Lake staple for decades. Enchiladas, tacos, and “jengo” nachos—piled high on a platter—are all good, as are the margaritas. A nifty addition: phone chargers on every table..

CHILE TEPIN

307 W. 200 South, SLC, 801-883-9255. chile-tepin.com

Popular for its generous servings of Mexican food, this place usually has a line on Friday nights. Heavy on the protein—the molcajete holds beef, pork and chicken—but cheese enchiladas and margaritas and other staples are good, too.

CHUNGA’S

180 S. 900 West, SLC, 801-328-4421. chungasmexican.com

These tacos al pastor are the real deal. Carved from a big pineapple-marinated hunk, the meat is folded in delicate masa tortillas with chopped pineapple, onion and cilantro.

LONE STAR TAQUERIA

2265 E. Fort Union Blvd., SLC, 801-9442300. lstaq.com

Lone Star serves a burrito that’s a meal in itself, whether you choose basic bean and cheese or a special.

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RED IGUANA

736 W. North Temple, SLC, 801-322-1489; 866 W. South Temple, SLC, 801-214-6050.

All locations are a blessing in this City of Salt, which still has mysteriously few good Mexican restaurants. Mole is what you want.

RIO GRANDE CAFÉ

258 S. 1300 East, SLC, 801-364-3302.

As bustling now as it was when it was still a train station, this is a pre-Jazz favorite and great for kids, too. Dishes overflow the plate and fill the belly.

TACO TACO

208 E. 500 South, SLC, 801-355-8518. tacotacoslc.com EGL

A tiny, charming taqueria, perfect for pickup and sunny days.

TAQUERIA 27

1615 S. Foothill Dr., SLC, 385-259-0712; 4670 S. Holladay Village Plaza, Holladay, 801-676-9706; 149 East 200 South, SLC, 385-259-0940; 6154 S. Fashion Blvd. #2, Murray, 801-266-2487; 1688 W. Traverse Pkwy., Lehi, 801-331-8033. taqueria27.com

Salt Lake needs more Mexican food, and Todd Gardiner is here to provide it. Artisan tacos (try the duck confit), inventive guacamole and lots of tequila.

Seafood CURRENT FISH & OYSTER HOUSE

279 E. 300 South, SLC, 801-326-3474. currentfishandoyster.com

An all-star team made this cool downtown restaurant an instant hit. Excellent and inventive seafood dishes plenty of non-fishy options.

HARBOR SEAFOOD & STEAK CO.

2302 Parleys Way, SLC, 801-466-9827. harborslc.com

A much-needed breath of sea air refreshes this restaurant, which updates their menu frequently according to the availability of wild fish. A snappy interior, a creative cocktail menu and a vine-covered patio make for a hospitable atmosphere.

KIMI’S CHOP & OYSTER HOUSE

2155 S. Highland Dr., SLC, 801-946-2079. kimishouse.com

Kimi Eklund and Chef Matt Anderson are bringing a touch of glam to Sugar House with their high-style, multi-purpose restaurant: It’s an oyster bar, it’s a steakhouse, it’s a lounge. However you use it, Kimi’s makes for a fun change from the surrounding pizza and beerscapes, with dramatic lighting, purple velvet and live music.

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ON THE TABLE MARKET STREET GRILL

MY THAI

SLC’s fave fish restaurants: Fish is flown in daily and the breakfast is an institution.

My Thai is an unpretentious mom-and-pop operation—she’s mainly in the kitchen, and he mainly waits tables, but in a lull, she darts out from her stove to ask diners if they like the food. Yes, we do.

THE OYSTER BAR

OH MAI

48 W. Market Street, SLC, 801-322-4668; 2985 E. Cottonwood Pkwy., SLC, 801-9428860; 10702 River Front Pkwy., South Jordan, 801-302-2262. marketstreetgrill.com

54 W. Market St., SLC, 801-531-6044; 2985 E. Cottonwood Parkway (6590 South), SLC, 801-942-8870. marketstreetoysterbar.com

This is one of the best selection of fresh oysters in town: Belon, Olympia, Malpeque and Snow Creek, plus Bluepoints. Crab and shrimp are conscientiously procured.

Southeast Asian CHABAAR BEYOND THAI

87 W 7200 S, Midvale, 801-566-5100. chabaarbeyondthai.com

One of Annie Sooksri’s parade of restaurants, this one features what the name implies: a solid menu of Thai favorites plus some inventions based on Thai flavors.

CHANON THAI CAFÉ

278 E. 900 South, SLC, 801-532-1177. chanonthai.com

A meal here is like a casual dinner at your best Thai friend’s place. Try curried fish cakes and red-curry prawns with coconut milk and pineapple.

FAV BISTRO

1984 E Murray Holladay Rd, Holladay, 801-676-9300. favbistro.com

Cross-cultural food with a menu of fusion dishes based on Thai flavors.

INDOCHINE

230 S. 1300 East, 801-582-0896. indochinesaltlake.com

Vietnamese cuisine is under-represented in Salt Lake’s Thai-ed up dining scene, so a restaurant that offers more than noodles is welcome. Try broken rice dishes, clay pots and pho.

MI LA-CAI NOODLE HOUSE 961 S. State St., SLC, 801-322-3590. lacainoodlehouse.com

Mi La-cai’s noodles rise above the rest, and their pho is fantastic—each bowl a work of art. The beautiful setting is a pleasure. It’s even a pleasure to get the bill.

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1425 S. 300 West, SLC, 801-505-4999.

850 S. State St., 801-575-8888; 3425 State St., SLC, 801-467-6882; 1644 W. Town Center Dr., South Jordan, 801-274-4111, 6093 S. Highland Dr., Holladay, 801-277-9888. ohmaisandwich.com

Fast, friendly and hugely flavorful—that sums up this little banh mi shop that’s taken SLC by storm. Pho is also good and so are full plates, but the banh mi are heaven.

PLEIKU

264 Main St., SLC, 801-359-4544. pleikuslc.com

This stylish downtown spot serves a selection of Vietnamese dishes made from family recipes and served tapas-style. Note the pho, which is brewed for 36 hours and served in a full-bowl meal or a preprandial cup.

SAPA SUSHI BAR & ASIAN GRILL 722 S. State St., SLC, 801-363-7272. sapabarandgrill.com

Charming Vietnamese stilt houses surround the courtyard. Sapa’s menu ranges from Thai curries to fusion and hot pots, but the sushi is the best bet.

SAWADEE THAI

754 E. South Temple, SLC, 801-328-8424. sawadee1.com

The menu goes far outside the usual pad thai and curry. Thai food’s appeal lies in the subtleties of difference achieved with a limited list of ingredients.

SKEWERED THAI

575 S. 700 East, SLC, 801-364-1144. skeweredthai.com

A serene setting for some of the best Thai in town—perfectly balanced curries, pristine spring rolls, intoxicating drunk noodles and a well-curated wine list.

fers a menu of Thai staples and American breakfast dishes.

SOMI VIETNAMESE BISTRO

1215 E. Wilmington, SLC, 385-322-1158. somislc.com

But there’s also Chinese food and a cocktail menu at this stylish Sugarhouse restaurant. Crispy branzino, pork belly sliders on bai and braised oxtail are some of the highlights to the menu, which also includes the standard spring rolls and pho.

THAI GARDEN

4410 S. 900 East, SLC, 801-266-7899. thaigardenbistroslc.com

Paprika-infused pad thai, deep-fried duck and fragrant gang gra ree are all excellent choices—but there are 50-plus items on the menu. Be tempted by batter-fried bananas with coconut ice cream.

KRUA THAI

212 E. 500 South, SLC, 801-328-4401. kruathaislc.com

Curries and noodle dishes hit a precise procession on the palate—sweet, then sour, savory and hot—plus there are dishes you’ve never tried before and should: bacon and collard greens, red curry with duck, salmon with chili and coconut sauce.

THAI SIAM

1435 S. State St., SLC, 801-474-3322. siamptsaltlakecity.com

This restaurant is diminutive, but the flavors are fresh, big and bold. Never expensive, this place is even more of a bargain during lunchtime, when adventurous customers enjoy the $6.95 combination plates, a triple Thai tasting that’s one of the best deals in town.

ZAO ASIAN CAFE

639 E. 400 South, SLC, 801-595-1234; 2227 S. Highland Dr., SLC, 801-467-4113. zaoasiancafe.com

It’s hard to categorize this pan-Asian semifast food concept. It draws from Thai, Vietnamese, Chinese and Japanese traditions, all combined with the American need for speed. Just file it under fast, fresh, flavorful food.

TEA ROSE DINER

Steak

Annie Sooksri has a mini-empire of Thai and Asian restaurants across the valley—Tea Rose has been a favorite since 2007 and of-

CHRISTOPHER’S

65 E. 5th Ave,, Murray, 801-685-6111.

134 W. Pierpont Ave., SLC, 801-519-8515.

The menu is straightforward, chilled shell-

fish and rare steaks, with a few seafood and poultry entrees thrown in for the nonbeefeaters.

FLEMING’S PRIME STEAKHOUSE

20 S. 400 West, The Gateway, SLC, 801-3553704. christophersut.com

This local branch of a national chain has a famously impressive wine list. With more than 100 available by the glass, it has selections that pair well with anything you order.

RUTH’S CHRIS STEAKHOUSE 275 S. West Temple, SLC, 801-363-2000. ruthschris.com

This former bank building has inner beauty. Stick with classics like crab cocktail, order the wedge, and ask for your butter-sizzled steak no more than medium, please. Service is excellent. Eat dessert, then linger in the cool bar.

SPENCER’S

255 S. West Temple, SLC, 801-238-4748. hilton.com/en/hotels/utah

The quality of the meat and the accuracy of the cooking are what make it great. Beef is aged on the bone, and many cuts are served on the bone—a luxurious change from the usual cuts.

Vegetarian BOLTCUTTER

57 E. Gallivan Ave., SLC, So hip there’s no listed phone.

Vegan—the boltcutters refer to setting free the animals. Mexican flavors spice up the menu of tacos filled with seitan or mushrooms and there’s a list of agave spirit drinks. The same folks own the vegan ice cream place next door, Monkeywrench.

of burgers, sandwiches and breakfasts. Plus organic wines and coffees.

ZEST KITCHEN & BAR

275 S. 200 West, SLC, 801-433-0589. zestslc.com

Zest has sophisticated vegan cooking plus a cheerful attitude and ambience fueled by creative cocktails. Pulling flavors from many culinary traditions, the menu offers Cuban tacos, Thai curry with forbidden rice, stuffed poblano peppers as well as bar noshes and an amazing chocolate-beet torte—all vegan. The menu changes frequently.

GLITRETIND

PARK CITY & THE WASATCH BACK

GOLDENER HIRSCH

American Fine Dining APEX

9100 Marsac Ave., Park City, 435-604-1300. montagehotels.com/deervalley

Apex at Montage exudes luxury in an understated and comfortable way. No need to tux up for pampered service; the classy lack of pretension extends to the menu—no unpronounceables, nothing scary or even too daring—just top-of-the-line everything. Quality speaks for itself.

350 MAIN

350 Main St., Park City, 435-649-3140. 350main.com

Now run by Cortney Johanson who has worked at the restaurant for 20 years, this mainstay cafe on Main Street is seeing another high point. With Chef Matthew Safranek in the kitchen, the menu is a balanced mix of old favorites and soon-to-be favorites like Five Spice Venison Loin in Pho. Amazing.

THE FARM RESTAURANT OMAR’S RAWTOPIA

3961 S. Wasatch Blvd., SLC, 801-486-0332. rawtopia.com

Owner Omar Abou-Ismail’s Rawtopia is a destination for those seeking clean, healthy food in Salt Lake—whether you’re a vegan, vegetarian or omnivore. Desserts are amazingly indulgent—like chocolate caramel pie and berry cheesecake.

VERTICAL DINER

BLUE PLATE 234 W. 900 South, SLC, 801- 484-8378. verticaldiner.com

Vertical Diner boasts an animal-free menu

about cooking with fire—his massive Inferno kitchen grill by Grillworks runs on oak, cherry and applewood, depending on what’s cooking. But each dish is layered and nuanced, with global influences. Definitely a star on Main Street.

4000 Canyons Resort Dr., 435-615-4828. parkcityrestaurants.com/restaurants/thefarm

Food is at the forefront of the newly named Park City Mountain Resort, and the farm is the flagship featuring sustainably raised and produced food. Resort Village, Sundial Building, North of the Cabriolet.

FIREWOOD

7700 Stein Way, Deer Valley, 435-645-6455. steinlodge.com

The service is polished, and the menu is as fun or as refined or as inventive as Chef Zane Holmquist’s mood. The appeal resonates with the jet set and local diners. The wine list is exceptional. But so is the burger.

7570 Royal St. East, Park City, 435-6497770. goldenerhirschinn.com

A jazzed up Alpine theme—elk carpaccio with pickled shallots, foie gras with cherryprune compote and wiener schnitzel with caraway-spiked carrot strings.

MARIPOSA AT DEER VALLEY 7600 Royal St., Park City, 435-645-6715.

(Open seasonally) Try the tasting menu for an overview of the kitchen’s talent. It’s white tablecloth, but nothing is formal.

MUSTANG

890 Main St., Park City, 435-658-3975. mustangparkcity.com

A duck chile relleno arrives in a maelstrom of queso and ranchero sauce. Braised lamb shank and lobster with cheese enchiladas share the menu with seasonal entrees.

RIME SEAFOOD & STEAK

St. Regis, Deer Valley, 435-940-5760. srdvdining.com.

Acclaimed Chef Matthew Harris heads the kitchen at this simply brilliant restaurant at the St. Regis—meticulously sourced meat and seafood from his trusted vendors, perfectly cooked.

ROYAL STREET CAFÉ

7600 Royal St., Silver Lake Village, Deer Valley Resort, Park City, 435-645-6724. deervalley.com

(Open seasonally) Don’t miss the lobster chowder, but note the novelties, too. In a new take on the classic lettuce wedge salad, Royal Street’s version adds baby beets, glazed walnuts and pear tomatoes.

306 Main St., Park City, 435-252-9900. firewoodonmain.com

Chef John Murcko’s place on Main Street is all

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ON THE TABLE VIKING YURT

Park City Mountain Resort, 435-615-9878. thevikingyurt.com

Arrive by sleigh and settle in for a luxurious five-course meal. Reservations and punctuality a must.

also full-meal plates, including the chef ’s famous fried chicken.

ZERMATT RESORT

784 W. Resort Dr., Midway, 866-643-2015. zermattresort.com

HEARTH AND HILL

The charming, Swiss-themed resort is big on buffets—seafood, Italian and brunch.

American Casual

This all-purposse cafe serves lunch, dinner and weekend brunch, focusing on bright, approachable American dishes with a kick.

Bakeries & Cafés

BLIND DOG GRILL

HIGH WEST DISTILLERY

1251 Kearns Blvd., Park City, 435-655-0800. blinddogpc.com

The kitchen offers imaginative selections even though the dark wood and cozy ambience look like an old gentlemen’s club. Don’t miss the Dreamloaf, served with Yukon gold mashed potatoes.

THE BLUE BOAR INN

1235 Warm Springs Rd., Midway, 435-654-1400. theblueboarinn.com

The restaurant is reminiscent of the Alps, but serves fine American cuisine. Don’t miss the award-winning brunch.

1153 Center Dr., (Newpark), Park City, 435-200-8840. hearth-hill.com

PARK CITY COFFEE ROASTERS 703 Park Ave., Park City, 435-649-8300. highwest.com

Order a flight of whiskey and taste the difference aging makes, but be sure to order plenty of food to see how magically the whiskey matches the fare. The chef takes the amber current theme throughout the food.

ROAD ISLAND DINER

981 W. Weber Canyon Rd., Oakley, 435-783-3466. roadislanddiner.com

An authentic 1930s diner refitted to serve 21st-century customers. The menu features old-fashioned favorites for breakfast, lunch and dinner.

THE BRASS TAG

2900 Deer Valley Dr. East, Park City, 435-615-2410. deervalley.com

In the Lodges at Deer Valley, the focal point here is a wood oven which turns out everything from pizza to fish and chops, all of the superior quality one expects from Deer Valley.

EATING ESTABLISHMENT

317 Main St., Park City, 435-649-8284. theeatingestablishment.net

Claiming to be the oldest, this restaurant is one of Park City’s most versatile. On weekend mornings, locals line up for breakfasts.

SAMMY’S BISTRO

1890 Bonanza Dr., Park City, 435-214-7570. sammysbistro.com

Down-to-earth food in a comfortable setting. Sounds simple, but if so, why aren’t there more Sammy’s in our world? Try the bacon-grilled shrimp or a chicken bowl with your brew.

SILVER STAR CAFE

1825 Three Kings Dr., Park City, 435-655-3456. thesilverstarcafe.com

Comfort food with an upscale sensibility and original touches, like shrimp and grits with chipotle or Niman Ranch pork cutlets with spaetzle. The location is spectacular.

FLETCHER’S ON MAIN STREET 562 Main St., Park City, 435-649-1111. fletcherspc.com

Fletcher’s has a casual approach designed to suit any appetite, almost any time. Talented Chef Scott Boborek’s carefully sourced dishes range from burgers to Beef Wellington—with lobster mac and Utah trout.

HANDLE

136 Heber Ave., Park City, 435-602-1155. handleparkcity.com

Chef-owner Briar Handly offers a menu, mostly of small plates, with the emphasis on excellent sourcing—trout sausage and Beltex Meats prosciutto, for example. There are

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SIMON’S GRILL AT THE HOMESTEAD

700 N. Homestead Dr., Midway, 888-327-7220. homesteadresort.com

The décor is formal, the fare is hearty but refined—salmon in a morel cream, or pearl onion fritters dusted with coarse salt.

SPIN CAFÉ

220 N. Main St., Heber City, 435-654-0251. spincafe.net

Housemade gelato is the big star at this family-owned café, but the food is worth your time. Try the pulled pork, the salmon BLT or the sirloin.

1764 Uinta Way, Park City, 435-647-9097. pcroaster.com

The town’s fave house-roasted coffee and housemade pastries make this one of the best energy stops in town.

RIVERHORSE PROVISIONS

221 Main St., Park City, 435-649-0799, riverhorseprovisions.com

Bowls, breakfast, sandwiches, substantial snacks and picnics to go—even beer and wine—this place has pretty much everything you need whenever you need it.

WASATCH BAGEL CAFÉ 1300 Snow Creek Dr., Park City, 435-645-7778.

Not just bagels, but bagels as buns, enfolding a sustaining layering of sandwich fillings like egg and bacon.

WINDY RIDGE BAKERY & CAFÉ 1250 Iron Horse Dr., Park City, 435-6470880. wasatchbagelandgrill.com

One of Park City’s most popular noshing spots—especially on Taco Tuesdays. The bakery behind turns out desserts and pastries for Bill White’s restaurants as well as take-home entrees.

Bar Grub & Brewpubs BURGERS & BOURBON

9100 Marsac Avenue, Park City, 435-604-1300. montagehotels.com

Housed in the luxurious Montage, this casual restaurant presents the most deluxe versions of America’s favorite foods. The burgers are stupendous, there’s a great list of bourbons to back them, and the milkshakes are majorly good.

RED ROCK JUNCTION

1640 W. Redstone Center Dr., Ste. 105, Park City, 435-575-0295. redrockbrewing.com

The house-brewed beers—honey wheat, amber ale or oatmeal stout, to name a few—

ON THE TABLE complement a menu of burgers, brick-oven pizzas and rotisserie chicken.

greens and grilled veggies on focaccia are café-goers’ favorites.

SQUATTERS ROADHOUSE

COURCHEVEL BISTRO

1900 Park Ave., Park City, 435-649-9868. squatters.com

Everyone loves the bourbon burger, and Utah Brewers Co-op brews are available by the bottle and on the state-of-the-art tap system. Open for breakfast daily.

WASATCH BREWPUB

201 Heber Ave., Park City, 435-572-4398.

Named after Park City’s sister city in the Savoie region of France, which happens to be the home turf of Chef Clement Gelas and is he having some fun with his mother cuisine. Be guided by him or your server and try some French food like you haven’t had before.

240 Main St., Park City, 435-649-0900. wasatchbeers.com

This was the first brewpub in Utah, and it serves handcrafted beer and family-friendly fare without a hefty price tag. Everyone loves Polygamy Porter, and the weekend brunch is great, too.

Italian & Pizza FUEGO

2001 Sidewinder Dr., Park City, 435- 645-8646. fuegopizzeria.com

Breakfast

Off the beaten Main Street track, this pizzeria is a family-friendly solution to a ski-hungry evening. Pastas, paninis and wood-fired pizzas are edgy, but they’re good.

DEER VALLEY GROCERY & CAFE

VINTO

The small lakeside spot serves sandwiches and lunch specials, plus it’s a great place to stock up on deer Valley classics to take home—think classic Deer Valley turkey chili.

The only location of this chic pizzeria, Vinto has a great patio, as well as personal pizzas (try the Tuttabello), a nice wine list and a rotating selection of excellent gelato. A great PC deal. Don’t overlook the pasta specials.

WOODLAND BISCUIT COMPANY

GHIDOTTI’S

1375 Deer Valley Dr., Park City, 435-6152400. deervalley.com

2734 E. State Hwy. 35, Woodland, 435- 7834202. woodlandbiscuit.com

Breakfast is the real deal here so pile on the bacon and eggs but if you sleep late, not to worry—burgers, sandwiches and tacos are good too.

900 Main St, Park City, 435-615-9990. vinto.com

6030 N. Market St., Park City, 435-658-0669. ghidottis.com

Ghidotti’s evokes Little Italy more than Italy, and the food follows suit—think spaghetti and meatballs, lasagna and rigatoni Bolognese. Try the chicken soup.

GRAPPA

Continental & European ADOLPH’S

1500 Kearns Blvd., Park City, 435-649-7177.

Park City locals believe the steak sandwich is the best in town. You’ll also find classics like wiener schnitzel, rack of lamb and Steak Diane.

424 Main St., Park City, 435-645-9555. adolphsrestaurantparkcity.com

This charming café is the spot for a leisurely meal. Chicken and bacon tossed with mixed

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Dishes like osso buco and grape salad with gorgonzola, roasted walnuts and Champagne vinaigrette are sensational, and the wine list features hard-to-find Italian wines as well as flights, including sparkling.

Japanese/Pan-Asian

CAFÉ TERIGO

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151 Main St., Park City, 435-645-0636. grapparestaurant.com

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SUSHI BLUE

flavors in Bill White’s sushi, excellent Korean tacos, crab sliders and other Amer-Asian food fusions, including the best hot dog in the state, topped with bacon and house-made kimchi.

WAHSO

577 Main St., Park City, 435-615-0300. wahso.com

Restaurateur Bill White is known for his eye-popping eateries. Wahso is his crown jewel, done up with lanterns and silks like a 1930s noir set. Don’t miss the jasmine teasmoked duck.

Mexican & Southwestern BAJA CANTINA

1284 Lowell Ave., Park City, 435-649-2252. bajaparkcity.com

The T.J. Taxi is a flour tortilla stuffed with chicken, sour cream, tomatoes, onions, cheddar-jack cheese and guacamole. Park City Resort Center.

BILLY BLANCO’S

8208 Gorgoza Pines Rd., Park City, 435-575-0846. billyblancos.com

Motor City Mexican. The subtitle is “burger and taco garage,” but garage is the notable word. This is a theme restaurant with lots of cars and motorcycles on display, oil cans to hold the flatware, and a 50-seat bar made out of toolboxes. If you’ve ever dreamed of eating in a garage, you’ll be thrilled.

CHIMAYO

368 Main St., Park City, 435-649-6222. chimayorestaurant.com

Bill White’s prettiest place, this restaurant is reminiscent of Santa Fe, but the food is pure Park City. Margaritas are good, and the avocado-shrimp appetizer combines guacamole and ceviche flavors in a genius dish.

EL CHUBASCO

1890 Bonanza Dr., Park City, 435-645-9114. elchubascomexicangrill.com

Regulars storm this restaurant for southof-the-border eats. Burritos fly through the kitchen like chiles too hot to handle—proving consistency matters.

1571 W. Redstone Center Dr. Ste. 140, Park City, 435-575-4272. sushiblueparkcity.com

TARAHUMARA

Find the yin and yang of Asian-American

Some of the best Mexican food in the state

380 E. Main St., Midway, 435-654-34654.

can be found in this Midway cafe, now under new ownership. Don’t be fooled by the bland exterior; inside you’ll find a full-fledged cantina and an adjoining family restaurant with a soulful salsa bar.

Middle Eastern & Greek REEF’S

7720 Royal St. East, Park City, 435-658-0323. reefsrestaurant.com

Lamb chops are tender, falafel is crunchy, and the prices fall between fast food and fine dining. It’s a den of home cooking, if your home is east of the Mediterranean.

Seafood FRESHIE’S LOBSTER CO.

1897 Prospector Ave., Park City, 435-6319861. freshieslobsterco.com

After years as everyone’s favorite summer food stop at Park Silly Market, Freshie’s has settled into a permanent location selling their shoreto-door lobster rolls all year round.

RIME SEAFOOD & RAW BAR 9850 Summit View Dr., Park City rimerawbar.com

Such a hit on the slopes that Chef Matt Harris took the concept inside and Rime is an anchor restaurant inside the St. Regis, Open ThursSunday.

Southeast Asian SHABU

442 Main St., Park City, 435-645-7253. shabuparkcity.com

Cool new digs, friendly service and fun food make Shabu one of PC’s most popular spots. Make reservations. A stylish bar with prizewinning mixologists adds to the freestyle feel.

KUCHU SHABU HOUSE

1612 W. Ute Blvd., Park City, 658-435-5829. kuchushabu.com

The second shabu-style eatery in PC is less grand than the first but offers max flavor from quality ingredients.

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ON THE TABLE Steak BUTCHER’S CHOP HOUSE & BAR

751 Main St., Park City, 435-647-0040. butcherschophouse.com

The draws are prime rib, New York strip and pork chops—and the ladies’ night specials in the popular bar downstairs.

GRUB STEAK

2200 Sidewinder Dr., Prospector Square, Park City, 435-649-8060. grubsteakparkcity.com

Live country music, fresh salmon, lamb and chicken, and a mammoth salad bar. Order bread pudding whether you think you want it or not. You will.

EDGE STEAKHOUSE

tive food in Ogden. Handmade hearth bread, espresso-rubbed yak, killer stroganoff—too many options to mention here—this is really a destination restaurant.

PRAIRIE SCHOONER

445 Park Blvd., Ogden, 801-621-5511. prairieschoonerrestaurant.com

Tables are covered wagons around a diorama featuring coyotes, cougars and cowboys— corny, but fun. The menu is standard, but kids love it.

Union Station, 315 24th St., Ogden, 801-621-2830. uniongrillogden.com

The cross-over cooking offers sandwiches, seafood and pastas with American, Greek, Italian or Mexican spices.

This beautifully fills the beef bill at the huge resort, and the tasting menus take you through salad, steak and dessert for $45 to $60, depending on options.

Bar Grub & Brewpubs

PRIME STEAK HOUSE

An indirect offshoot of Moab Brewery, the Grill focuses as much on house-brewed root beer as alcoholic suds, but the generally hefty food suits either.

Prime’s recipe for success is simple: Buy quality ingredients and insist on impeccable service. Enjoy the piano bar, and save room for molten chocolate cake.

NORTH SALT LAKE & BEYOND American Fine Dining THE HUNTINGTON ROOM AT EARL’S LODGE 3925 E. Snowbasin Rd., Huntsville, 888-437-547. snowbasin.com

Ski-day sustenance and fireside dinner for the après-ski set. In summer, dine at the top of the mountain.

BEEHIVE GRILL

255 S. Main St., Logan, 435-753-2600. thebeehivegrill.com

Burgers, Sandwiches, Delis CAFFE IBIS

52 Federal Ave., Logan, 435-753-4777. caffeibis.com

Exchange news, enjoy sandwiches and salads and linger over a cuppa conscientiously grown coffee.

MADDOX RANCH HOUSE 1900 S. Highway 89, Perry, 435723-8545. maddoxfinefood.com

Angus beef steaks, bison chickenfried steak and burgers have made this an institution for more than 50 years. Eat in, drive up or take home.

American Casual HEARTH

195 Historic 25th St. Ste. 6 (2nd Floor), Ogden, 801-399-0088. hearth25.com

The charming upstairs dining room is a great setting for some of the best and most imagina-

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Italian And Pizza THE ITALIAN PLACE

48 Federal Ave., Logan, 435-753-2584. italianplace.net

A great sandwich is about proportion, not quantity, the perfect balance of filling and bread, and toasted until the meld is complete.

UNION GRILL

3000 Canyon Resort Dr., Park City, 435-655-2260.

804 Main St., Park City, 435-655-9739. westgateresorts.com

The rooms are filled with red and gold dragons. Chefs recruited from San Francisco crank out a huge menu. Desserts are noteworthy. Call ahead.

Chinese MANDARIN

348 E. 900 North, Bountiful, 801-298-2406. mandarinutah.com

SLACKWATER PIZZA

1895 Washington Blvd., Ogden, 801-3990637. slackwaterpizzeria.com

The pies here are as good as any food in Ogden. Selection ranges from traditional to Thai (try it), and there’s a good selection of wine and beer.

ROVALI’S RISTORANTE

174 E. 2500 South, Ogden, 801-394-1070. rovalis.com

This friendly family-owned place on Ogden’s main drag serves hearty Italian fare and housemade pastry, plus a creative bar menu and live music.

Japanese RAMEN HAUS

2550 Washington Blvd., Ogden, 801-393-0000. ramenhaus.business.site

Sergei Oveson’s experience with ramen master Tosh and Shani Oveson’s at Naked Fish shows all over their restaurant in Ogden. Simple but stylish sums the space and terrific is the only word for the ramen. Do not leave without ordering the honey toast even if you think you don’t want dessert.

TONA SUSHI

210 25th St., Ogden, 801-622-8662. tonarestaurant.com

The charming old space on Ogden’s main drag houses a meticulously top-notch sushi restaurant. Owner Tony Chen grows herbs and sprouts in the basement and the plates he presents show an artist’s touch. Ask about the secret menu.

Mexican SONORA GRILL

2310 Kiesel Ave., Ogden, 801-393-1999. comthesonoragrill.com

A big, beautiful Mexican restaurant, the kind you see in Texas or New Mexico, Sonora serves great chips and salsa, a famous margarita, several kinds of ceviche and all the dishes you love as well as vegan, vegetarian and glutenfree options.

Southeast Asian THAI CURRY KITCHEN

582 25th St., Ogden, 385-333-7100. thaicurrykitchen.com.

Chic and sleek counter service offering bright from-scratch curries and salads plus locally made kombucha.

PROVO & CENTRAL UTAH American Fine Dining COMMUNAL

100 N. University Ave., Provo, 801-373-8000. communalrestaurant.com

Food is focused on the familiar with chef’s flair—like braised pork shoulder crusted in panko. Attention to detail makes this one of Utah’s best.

THE TREE ROOM

Highway 92, Sundance Resort, Provo Canyon, 801-223-4200. sundanceresort.com

Sundance Resort’s flagship is known for its seasonal, straightforward menu and memorable decor, including Robert Redford’s kachina collection. Try the wild game—spice-rubbed quail and buffalo tenderloin.

American Casual CHOM BURGER

45 W. 300 North, Provo, 385-241-7499. chomburger.com

Colton Soelberg’s (Communal, etc.) low-key high-end burger place has an eye towards infusing high-quality ingredients into America’s favorite sandwich. Inexpensive, innovative and delicious burgers and shakes, as we have come to expect from Soelberg who has a knack for elevating comfort food.

Exquisite Dining at The St. Regis Deer Valley The St. Regis Deer Valley offers select restaurants & ars serving cuisine as exquisite as the views. Savor fresh seafood or a prime cut steak at RIME at The St. Regis Deer Valley; a %rench comfort classic at Brasserie 7452; or an elegant cocktail at the St. Regis Bar. Dine al fresco at the Terrace Café, located on our Mountain Terrace overlooking spectacular Deer Valley Resort. New this Winter Season: The Yurt Village Located on the Ski Beach, experience slopeside refined dining for up to eight people in a new village of three yurts. scan to learn more & to su mit a reservation re uest or visit srdvdining.com

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ON THE TABLE THE FOUNDRY GRILL

Sundance Resort, Provo, 801-223-4220. sundanceresort.com

The café in Sundance Resort serves comfort food with western style—sandwiches, spitroasted chickens and s teaks. Sunday brunch is a mammoth buffet.

MOAB & SOUTHEAST UTAH

ST. GEORGE & SOUTHWEST UTAH

American Dining

American Fine Dining

CAFÉ DIABLO

KING’S LANDING

This café offers buzz-worthy dishes like rattlesnake cakes and fancy tamales. Save room for dessert.

In the Driftwood Inn, some of the finest food and the finest view in Utah. The kitchen is ambitious—seasonal, vegan, gluten-free are all covered. Mushroom tart involves mushrooms, caramelized onions, butternut squash and grapes with burrata and basil, but the flavors meld into harmony.

599 W. Main St., Torrey, 435-425-3070. cafediablo.com

STATION 22

22 W. Center St., Provo, 801-607-1803. station22cafe.com

Ever-hipper Provo is home to some cuttingedge food now that the cutting edge has a folksy, musical saw kind of style. Station 22 is a perfect example of the Utah roots trend—a charming, funky interior, a great soundtrack and a menu with a slight Southern twang. Try the fried chicken sandwich with red cabbage on ciabatta.

Indian BOMBAY HOUSE

463 N. University Ave., Provo, 801-373-6677; 7726 Campus View Dr., West Jordan, 801-282-0777; 2731 E. Parley’s Way, SLC, 801-581-0222. bombayhouse.com

Salt Lake’s biryani mainstay has several sister restaurants worthy to call family.

Italian

BLUE PLATE

HELL’S BACKBONE GRILL

20 N. Highway 12, Boulder, 435-335-7464. hellsbackbonegrill.com

Owners Blake Spalding and Jen Castle set the bar for local, organic food in Utah. Now the cafe has gained national fame. They garden, forage, raise chickens and bees, and offer breakfasts, dinners and even picnic lunches.

CAPITOL REEF INN & CAFÉ

360 W. Main St., Torrey, 435-425-3271. capitolreefinn.com

This family spot strives for a natural and tasty menu—and dishes like fresh trout and cornmeal pancakes achieve it. Be sure to look at the great rock collection and the stone kiva.

SUNGLOW FAMILY RESTAURANT

PIZZERIA 712

320 S. State St., Orem, 801-623-6712. pizzeria712.com

The pizza menu reaches heights of quality that fancier restaurants only fantasize about. Not only are the blister-crusted pizzas the epitome of their genre, but braised short ribs, local mushrooms and arugula on ciabatta are equally stellar.

91 E. Main St., Bicknell, 435-425-3701.

This pit stop is famous for its pinto bean and pickle pies. Yes, we said pickle.

GINGER’S GARDEN CAFE

188. S. Main St., Springville, 801-489-4500. gingersgardencafe.com

Tucked inside Dr. Christopher’s Herb Shop, Ginger’s serves truly garden-fresh, brightflavored, mostly vegetarian dishes.

PAINTED PONY

2 W. St. George Blvd., Ste. 22, St. George, 435-634-1700. painted-pony.com

The kitchen blends culinary trends with standards like sage-smoked quail on mushroom risotto. Even “surf and turf ” has a twist— tenderloin tataki with chile-dusted scallops.

SPOTTED DOG CAFÉ

428 Zion Park Blvd., Springdale, 435-772-0700. flanigans.com/dining

Relax, have some vino and enjoy your achiote-braised lamb shank with mint mashed potatoes on top of rosemary spaghetti squash.

VERMILLION 45

210 S. 100 East, Kanab, 435-644-3300. vermillion45.com

Who would expect a fine restaurant with a French chef in Kanab. But here it is, and it’s excellent.

Bar Grub & Brewpubs  MOAB BREWERY

686 Main St., Moab, 435-259-6333. themoabbrewery.com

Vegetarian

1515 Zion Park Blvd., Suite 50-A, Springdale, 435-772-7422. klbzion.com

A beloved watering hole for river-runners, slick-rock bikers, red-rock hikers and everyone who needs a bite and a beer, which is nearly everyone in Moab. All beer is brewed on site.

American Casual MOM’S CAFÉ

10 E. Main St., Salina, 435-529-3921. famousmomscafe.business.site

Mom’s has fed travelers on blue plate standards since 1928. This is the place to try a Utah “scone” with “honey butter.”

OSCAR’S CAFÉ

948 Zion Park Blvd., Springdale, 435-772-3232. oscarscafe.com

Blueberry pancakes, fresh eggs, crisp po tatoes and thick bacon. We love breakfast, though Oscar’s serves equally satisfying meals at other times of day.

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PEEKABOO CANYON WOOD FIRED KITCHEN

233 W. Center St., Kanab, 435- 689-1959. peekabookitchen.com

Complementing Best Friends Animal Sanctuary, this casual eatery serves vegetarian cuisine—artisanal pizza, local beer, craft cocktails and a rocking patio.

RED ROCK GRILL AT ZION LODGE

Zion National Park, 435-772-7700. zionlodge.com

Try eating here on the terrace. Enjoy meltingpot American dishes like smoked trout salad with prickly pear vinaigrette. And you can’t beat the red rock ambience.

WHIPTAIL GRILL

445 Zion Park Blvd., Springdale, 435-7720283. whiptailgrillzion.com

Tucked into an erstwhile gas station, the kitchen is little, but the f lavors are big—a goat cheese-stuffed chile relleno crusted in Panko and the chocolate-chile creme brulee.

XETAVA GARDENS CAFÉ

L O C A L D E V I L I S H LY D E L I C I O U S S A L S A O N L I N E │ I N S T O R E S │ FA R M E R S M A R K E T S

S A L S A D E L D I A B L O U TA H . C O M

815 Coyote Gulch Court, Ivins, 435-656-0165. xetava.com

Blue corn pancakes for breakfast and lunch are good bets. But to truly experience Xetava, dine under the stars in eco-conscious Kayenta.

Bakeries & Cafés TWENTY-FIVE MAIN CAFÉ AND CAKE PARLOR 25 N. Main St., St. George, 435-628-7110. 25main.com

With its hip graphic design, ever-so-cool servers and a loyal cupcake following, this simple sandwich spot could be at home in Soho, but it’s in St. George.

Mexican THE BIT AND SPUR

1212 Zion Park Blvd., Springdale, 435-772-3498. bitandspur.com

The menu stars Southwestern cuisine—ribs, beef and chicken—as well as chili verde. A longtime Zion favorite, there’s almost always a wait here, but it’s almost always a pleasant one with a view and a brew in hand.

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BAR FLY L I B A T I O N S

B A R S

21 & OVER BARS Forget about navigating the state’s labyrinth of liquor laws—the more than 20 bars and pubs listed here prioritize putting a drink in your hand, although most of them serve good food, too. Restricted to 21 and over. (Be prepared to show your I.D., whatever your age. This is Utah, after all.)

THE BAR PROJECT

All bars listed in the Salt Lake Bar Fly have been vetted and chosen based on quality of beverage, food, atmosphere and service. This selective guide has no relationship to any advertising in the magazine. Review visits are anonymous, and all expenses are paid by Salt Lake magazine.

PHOTO COURTESY THE BAR PROJECT

THE BAR PROJECT SLC’S NIGHTCAP BOX

BOX UP THE BAR BY K AITLYN CHRIST Y

H I L E W E W A N T nothing more than for our local bar scene to flourish, we understand the new normal means opting to have a drink in the comfort of your home. You can still support bars and local businesses all while enjoying your favorite cocktails by purchasing any of these locally handcrafted cocktail kits. As a bonus, you, not the State of Utah, get to decide how much booze to put in.

The Nightcap Box ranges from $50 to $250, depending on the frequency, and includes 3 cocktail recipes with all of the ingredients (not including the recommended spirits)—enough for 9 to 12 cocktails. Syrups, dried garnishes, mixers and citrus are included; you just add the liquor. thebarprojectslc.com

BITTERS LAB OLD FASHIONED KIT

Starting at $45, this kit includes a 1/2 oz. bottle of Bitters Lab classic Aromatic bitters, a 2 oz. bottle of

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BAR FLY AC

CAMPFIRE LOUNGE

The Euro-styled hotel has a chic lobby bar and a secret menu of drinks inspired by movies filmed in Utah, like Dumb and Dumber and Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid.

The laid-back feeling of sitting around a campfire is what the owners were aiming for, with or without flames. Campfire is a relaxed neighborhood joint with affordable drinks. And s’mores.

THE AERIE

COPPER COMMON

Floor-to-ceiling windows mean drinkers can marvel at nature’s handiwork while feasting from the sushi bar. The menu is global with live music some nights.

Copper Common is a real bar—that means you don’t actually have to order food if you don’t want to. But on the other hand, why wouldn’t you want to? This bar has a real chef.

ALIBI BAR & PLACE

THE COTTON BOTTOM

Located along SLC’s bar line on Main Street, Alibi has a sleek, hip vibe and is generally filled with happy hipsters, especially when they have theme nights.

Remember when this was a ski bum’s town? The garlic burger and a beer is what you order.

9320 Cliff Lodge Dr. #88, Snowbird Resort, 801-933-2160, snowbird.com

369 S. Main St., SLC, 385-259-0616

BAR X

155 E. 200 South, SLC, 801-355-2287. beerbarslc.com

simple syrup from Sirop Co., a small 4 oz. jar of locally made vanilla cocktail cherries, 1 package of dehydrated oranges for garnishing, a few cocktail picks and 4 recipe cards to get you started on your cocktail making journey. bitterslab.com

TOP SHELF BARTENDERS BOX

The Bartenders Box is a mixology experience created by the Top Shelf Services team located in Park City. The Brunch Box ($75) serves 8 Bloody Marys and 12 Mimosas. thebartendersbox.com

CAPUTO’S BAR DADDY

Give your loved ones and co-workers a taste of Caputo’s. They’ve hand-selected products and bundled them into one lovely gift collection. Who’s Your Bar Daddy ($88) includes Bar Daddy Orgeat Syrup, Luxardo Maraschino Cherries, Peychaud’s Bitters, Angostura Aromatic Original Bitter and Regans’ Orange Bitters No. 6. caputos.com

With a growing list of unique flavors available and a collection of limited-edition subscription boxes, there are bitters for everyone, from the novice homebartender or baker to seasoned chefs and, of course, those in the bar industry. bitterslab.com

SALTLAKEMAGAZINE.COM

BEER BAR

161 E. 200 South, SLC, 801-355-2287. beerbarslc.com

Ty Burrell, star of ABC’s small-screen hit Modern Family, co-owns Beer Bar, which is right next to Bar X. It’s noisy, there’s no table service, but there are 140+ brews to choose from, plus 13 kinds of wurst.

THE BAYOU

645 S. State St., SLC, 801-961-8400. utahbayou.com

This is Beervana, with 260 bottled beers and 32 on draft. The kitchen turns out artichoke pizza and deep-fried Cornish game hens.

BEERHIVE PUB

128 S. Main St., SLC, 801-364-4268

More than 200 beers—domestic, imported and local—with a long ice rail to keep the brew cold, the way Americans like ’em, are the outstanding features of this cozy downtown pub.

BTG WINE BAR

BITTER BONANZA BITTERS LAB

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A survivor of the ups and downs of Utah liquor laws, this was the vanguard of Salt Lake’s new cocktail movement, serving classic drinks and creative inventions behind the best electric sign in the city.

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404 S. West Temple, SLC, 801-359-2814. btgwinebar.com

BTG stands for “By the Glass” and though BTG serves craft cocktails, specialty beer and good food, the pièces de résistance are the more than 50 wines by the glass. Order a tasting portion or a full glass.

837 E. 2100 South, 801-467-3325 campfirelounge.com

111 E. Broadway, SLC, 801-355-0543. coppercommon.com

2820 E. 6200 South, SLC, 801-849-8847. thecottonbottom.com

DICK & DIXIE’S

479 E 300 South, SLC, 801-994-6919

The classic corner beer bar where cronies of all kinds gather regularly to watch sports, talk politics and generally gossip about the city and nothing in particular.

EAST LIBERTY TAP HOUSE 850 E. 900 South, SLC, 801-441-2845. eastlibertytaphouse.com

Half a dozen beers on draft and 20 or more by the bottle, and the rotation changes constantly. The menu does clever takes on bar food classics, like onion dip and potato chips.

GIBSON LOUNGE

555 S. Main St, SLC, 801-258-6778. grandamerica.com

Grand America’s inimitable style is translated into a cushy but unstuffy bar, the antithesis of the current hipster style. You can actually wear a cocktail dress to this cocktail bar.

GOOD GRAMMAR

49 E. Gallivan Ave., 385-415-5002. goodgrammar.bar

The crowds playing Jenga on the patio, the decor, full of pop celebs and heroes, and a soundtrack of eclectic old- and alt-rock, makes a space that bridges old and young imbibers.

HIGH WEST DISTILLERY

703 Park Ave., Park City, 435-649-8300. highwest.com

The bartenders at Utah’s award-winning distillery concoct different cocktail menus for every season focusing on High West’s spirits, although the bar stocks other alcohol.

PHOTO COURTESY CAPUTO'S

225 W. 200 South, SLC, 385-722-9600. achotels.marriott.com

GARAGE

1199 N. Beck St., SLC, 801-521-3904. garageonbeck.com

Everyone compares it to an Austin bar. Live music, good food and the rockingest patio in town. Try the Chihuahua, a chile-heated riff on a margarita.

GRACIE’S

326 S. West Temple, SLC, 801-819-7563. graciesslc.com

Play pool, throw darts, listen to live music, kill beer and time on the patio and upstairs deck. Plus, Gracie’s is a gastropub.

GREEN PIG

31 E. 400 South, SLC, 801-532-7441. thegreenpigpub.com

Green Pig is a pub of a different color. The owners use eco-friendly materials and sustainable kitchen practices. The menu star is the chili verde nachos with big pork chunks and cheese.

LAKE EFFECT

55 W 200 South, SLC, 801-285-6494. lakeeffectslc.com

An eclectic bar and lounge with a fine wine list and full menu. Live music many nights; open until 1 a.m.

RABBIT HOLE

155 W. 200 South, SLC, 801-285-6494

Downstairs in Lake Effect, the gaslit Rabbit Hole takes you to a different time, especially on Wednesday nights which are devoted to jazz. The Rabbit is a real listening room—you don’t talk over or under the music, you don’t talk at all while the musicians are playing. This rare respect and a top notch bar makes this a very unusual hare.

SEABIRD BAR & VINYL CLUB

7 S. Rio Grande, The Gateway, SLC, 801-456-1223

Great little locally owned bar in the Gateway with great views, a fun little patio, friendly bartenders and more style than the place can hold.

THE REST AND BODEGA 331 S. Main St., SLC, 801‑532‑4042. bodega331.com

The neon sign says “Bodega;” drink a beer in the phone booth–sized front or head downstairs to the The Rest. Order a cocktail, settle into the apparently bomb-proof book-lined library, or take a booth and sit at the bar.

THE SHOOTING STAR

7300 E. 200 South, Huntsville, 801-745-2002. shooting-star-saloon.business.site

More than a century old, this is genyou-wine Old West. The walls are adorned with moose heads and a stuffed St. Bernard. Good luck with finishing your Star Burger.

OYSTER BAR

54 W. Market St., SLC, 801-531-6044. marketstreetgrill.com

The nightlife side of Market Street seafood restaurant, the Oyster Bar has an is a place to begin or end an evening, with an award-winning martini and a dozen oysters—half price on Mondays.

QUARTERS

5 E. 400 South, SLC, quartersslc.com.

Nostalgic for all those Gen Xers and gamer geeks, Quarters features retro gaming pinball and a game called Killer Queen. Drink a sling—or order a La Croix with a shot poured into the can.

SPENCER’S

Hilton Salt Lake City Center, 255 W. Temple, SLC, 801-238-4748. hilton.com

The cozy, wood-panelled bar adjoining the steakhouse is a classic; the bartender can mix what you want.

THE VAULT

202 S. Main St., SLC, 801-363-5454. bambara-slc.com/the-vault

A quintessential hotel bar, with big windows overlooking pedestrian traffic. Special cocktails may be themed to what’s on stage across the street at Capitol Theatre.

WAKARA BAR

480 Wakara Way, SLC, 385-722-9600.

One of the few bars on the west bench, Wakara serves craft cocktails and hosts live music, trivia nights, liquor education and even, occasionally, drag queens.

WATER WITCH

BLUE PLATE 163 W. 900 South, SLC, 801-462-0967. waterwitchbar.com

Three of Utah’s leading bartenders join forces in this charming tiny bar. Whether you want a classic drink, a draft or glass of wine, or a cocktail custom-designed to your taste, this is the place to belly up.

WHISKEY STREET

323 S. Main St., SLC, 801-433-1371. whiskeystreet.com

This stretch of Main was once dubbed

“Whiskey Street” because it was lined with so many pubs and bars. A 42-footlong cherry wood bar encourages you to bend the elbow.

ZEST KITCHEN & BAR

275 S. 200 West, SLC, 801-433-0589. zestslc.com

Zest offers hand-crafted fresh juice cocktails with the same emphasis on local and organic ingredients as the food—try an original concoction like the Straw-bubbly Lavender Martini.

Beers & Brews SQUATTERS/WASATCH 147 W. Broadway, 801-363-2739, squatters.com, 2110 Highland Dr., 801-783-1127. wasatchbeers.com

Salt Lake’s original breweries merged to form Utah Brewers Cooperative— Squatters and Wasatch are the most popular watering holes in Salt Lake.

DESERT EDGE BREWERY 273 Trolley Square,SLC, 801-521-8917. desertedgebrewery.com

The constantly changing variety and Beer School set Desert Edge apart from all the others.

TF BREWING

936 S. 300 West, 385-270-5972. tfbrewing.com

TF stands for Templin Family; brewmaster Kevin Templin has a long history in Salt Lake’s beer scene. Expect meticulously made German-style beer and don’t miss game night.

BOHEMIAN BREWERY

94 E. 7200 South, Midvale, 801-5665474, bohemianbrewery.com

Enjoy the lagers beloved by Bohemian’s owners’ Czech forebears, following the ancient Reinheitsgbot or German Purity Law.

EPIC BREWING COMPANY 825 S. State St., 801-906-0123. epicbrewing.com

Epic exclusively brews high-alcohol content beer. The brewing facility moved to Colorado, but you can still buy cold beer to-go at the taproom.

SHADES OF PALE BREWING 2160 S. West Temple, 435-200-3009. shadesofpale.com

A mom-and-pop brewery supplying many local restaurants—check the website—stop by their tap room.

PROPER BREWERY

LEVEL CROSSING

936 S. 900 West, SLC, 385-270-5972. levelcrossing.com

Opened by home brewer and photographer Christ Detrick, Level Crossing is long on games (like darts), good food and of course good beer.

RED ROCK BREWERY 254 S. 200 West, 801-521-7446. redrockbrewing.com

A longtime favorite for tippling and tasting—The pub draws on 45 recipes for its rotating selection.

TOASTED BARREL BREWERY

412 W. 600 North, 801-657-6942. toastedbarrelbrewery.com

Look for seasonal releases of vintage aged sours and high alcohol barrel-aged beers.

UINTA BREWING COMPANY

1722 Fremont Dr., 801-467-0909. uintabrewing.com

Founder Will Hamill says,“We make beer. Period.” Uinta produces certified organic beers and beer in corked bottles.

865 Main St., 801-906-8604. properbugerslc.com

From the same proper folks who brought you the Publick House, Proper Brewery and Burgers hugely expands the brewing capacity of the original and adds a burger emporium.

FISHER BREWING COMPANY

320 W. 800 South, 801-487-2337. fisherbeer.com

Fisher takes its name from a brewery originally founded in 1884, but the brews and low-key atmosphere are strictly right now. One of the few in town that has cask ale occasionally.

ROHA

30 E. Kensington Ave., 385-227-8982. rohabrewing.com

The name comes from the owners two names: Rob Phillips and Chris Haas, former brewer for Red Rock Brewery.

KIITOS BREWING

608 W. 700 South, 801-215-9165. kiitosbrewing.com

A rising star, Kiitos brews are on several menus around town. But if you stop by the brewery to taste, you can play pinball, too.

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THE BEAR LAKE MONSTER In the lake’s darkest, coldest depths, the creature lurks BY JEREMY PUGH

EAR LAKE OFFERS one of Utah’s most scenic vistas. As you crest the hill of Logan Canyon into Rich County, the lake sprawls out into a vivid, sparkling blue jewel defining the valley that bears its name. If Delicate Arch is southern Utah’s Mona Lisa, then Bear Lake is northern Utah’s Girl with the Pearl Earring. But beware. Bear Lake’s stunning blue waters are said to hide a great serpentine beast, as wide as a man and, depending on the account, anywhere from 40 to 200 feet long. The creature’s head is alternatively described as a betusked walrus or a toothy alligator, both bearing giant eyes, set widely apart. The beast has conical ears (“like a pint glass”) and an indeterminate number of legs, is awkward on land but can swim, as one written account has it, “faster than a locomotive.” The local lore, even today, has it that the depths of Bear Lake have never successfully been fathomed, and it is within

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these deepest, coldest depths that the creature lurks, hidden from the eyes of man. Down there. In the dark. That’s where the Bear Lake Monster waitals. But Bear Lake’s depth has been measured plenty, says the late Ted Alsop, the affable and beloved Utah State University professor of physical geography, from whose lips I first heard tell of the beast. Alsop used the story to debunk the myth that the lake’s depths had never been plumbed and to artfully describe the scientific difference between a crater lake and a lake, like Bear Lake, created from a “dropped-down graben.” (Which sounds equally monstrous, really: Watch out child, or the Graben will get you!) “It was a story made up by drunk Mormons,” Alsop, who passed away in 2017, told his freshman classes year after year. “The lake is 280 feet deep at bank full, and no, it’s not a crater lake, although there are crater lakes in the area…,” etc. But the legend (and all legends like it: Loch Ness, Sasquatch) persists because

these tales of fearsome, left-behind creatures are vestigial holdouts from the time when we were fighting for control of this world. They live on in our deep cortex. The feral, fight-or-flight memories of a time when we named the monsters and mastered them. But on a darkened shore of a silvery lake, these long-forgotten fears spring forth as a primal response to errant and suspicious splashes amid the lapping waters. And we can easily see in our mind’s eye the scaled beast breaking the water’s surface, gliding in the moonlight in stern warning. It is a shadow of what we once encountered and conquered, and it waits with the patience of eons in its dark, murksome home to rise from the waters and take back what we took.

Salt Lake Magazine March-April 2021

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