Dipped in Blue

Sailing across the azure waters of the Aegean, the Greek Cycladic Islands of Milos, Sifnos and Folegandros rise up from the sea like a dazzling mirage. The islands are an oasis of beauty, flavor and tranquility, a place where the varied hues of sky and sea blend into a perfect blue horizon. As soon as your eyes catch a glimpse of the shore, your passage into paradise begins. Time seems to slow, as you are set adrift from the world and your cares are left behind. You’ll find yourself enveloped by the utter serenity of this captivating landscape and the warm and welcoming hospitality of its people.

Written and Photographed by Monica Picca

Milos is a contrast of old and new, rich in culture and natural beauty. The island is a visual delight, graced with peaceful harbors, white-washed houses, jagged mountains, valleys dotted with ancient ruins, miles of hidden catacombs and some of the most beautiful beaches in all the Greek Islands, all waiting to be explored. Most beaches are accessible from the mainland, and no two look exactly alike. Some glisten white with the softest sand, while others are more rocky and rugged, and the waters here are translucent. The more isolated swimming spots are perhaps best enjoyed by diving from the side of a catamaran, beneath the glow of the afternoon sun.

When the light begins to fade, sun-soaked days transform into candlelit evenings. Small cafés, bars and tavernas line the harbor, luring you in with the warmth of their hospitality. The nights are filled with good food and strong drink, and the star-filled sky seems to stretch on forever. Inhibitions are left behind as ouzo, the legendary anise-flavored aperitif, fills your cup, and the hours slip pleasantly away. Slowly the world brightens again, and the tranquil rhythms of life on Milos repeat.

Beaches and Greek ruins

Sarakiniko BeachThe ancient Greek amphitheater

Milos Sailing Experience

Lithos Luxury Rooms is a hidden gem with both a modern flair and a romantic sensibility. This boutique hotel, situated off the main road at the end of a graveled path, offers breathtaking panoramic views of the surrounding ocean, hills and harbor. The suites are a collection of brilliantly white villas that stand out vividly against the bright blue sky. The rooms are intimate and serene, with their own private balconies where you can take in the peaceful beauty of the island. Breakfast is homemade and served outside on the stone terrace beside the pool. The hilltop location ensures that there is always a gentle breeze, even on the hottest of summer days, that brings with it the scent of the sea. If the heat becomes unbearable during the afternoon, the pool is ideal for a refreshing dip or a starlit nighttime swim.

lithosluxurymilos.gr

Kostantakis Winery in Pollonia

Hamos in the port of Adamas

In Sifnos, you eat. You eat, and then you eat some more. You can enjoy dishes like caper salad, soft goat cheese atop crusty bread, grilled octopus seasoned with sea salt and sun-ripened tomatoes plucked directly from the vine and drenched in local olive oil. This island is famous for its mouth-watering cuisine. The landscape reflects the endless bounty of delicious fare it has to offer.

Restaurants are scattered along the shoreline, and in this place of easygoing hospitality, shoes aren’t even necessary to enter. You can savor freshly caught fish as you bury your feet in the warm sand. The rocky hills rise up behind you like a great wall, in contrast to the smooth, endless blue of the surrounding sea. You can drink in the island’s beauty as you indulge in course after course of delectable locally-sourced food.

If you venture out beyond the harbor area, you’ll find more restaurants up in the hilltop villages that offer spectacular elevated views of the ocean. The towns here are filled with small cafés that are charming, unpretentious and ideal for either a quick bite or as a place to encamp well into the evening. Sifnos offers the perfect combination of relaxation and sheer culinary bliss.

Food and pottery

Caper Salad, a traditional Sifnos dishXinomizithra, a creamy, soft cheese with a slight crumble

Omega3 is located on the beach at Platis Gialos

Kamarotí Suites, located in an olive grove high above the Aegean Sea, feels like a world of its own, and in some ways, it is. Many of the dishes served at the hotel’s restaurant are prepared with ingredients that come straight from their own gardens. During the summer months, guests can enjoy a farm-to-table tapas-style dinner, ideal for when your plans call for a leisurely day spent close to home. When lounging poolside, the buzzing of bumblebees and the aroma of fresh herbs are relaxing distractions, and indulgent handcrafted cocktails are the perfect complement to a lazy afternoon.

kamaroti.com

Theodorou's Sweet Shop in Artemonas

Panagia Poulati, an old monastry on the beach

In Folegandros, you’ll feel like a castaway washed up on the shores of a lost world of rugged natural beauty. As you set out to explore in the early morning, clouds roll over the undulating landscape, casting shadows over the imposing hills and expanses of golden grass. Donkeys graze lazily along the side of the road, and the locals you pass seem in no hurry to reach their destinations. The world is quiet here, touched sparingly by modernity and comforting in its simplicity.

The beaches here are hidden and harder to get to, requiring either a bumpy ride on a rented quad (a type of motorbike) or a long hike down to the sea, but it’s well worth the effort. These secluded hideaways offer unparalleled views of the ocean and a dose of pure solitude. The few small towns that dot the main road are old and intimate. Cats dart in and out of alleyways, beckoning you to follow and explore what’s just around the next corner. It’s easy to lose yourself in the maze of restaurants and houses. In Folegandros, the lure of the past is strong, and you only emerge back into the present when you leave its shores.

Secluded beaches

Chora, a bustling hilltop townAno Meria, ancient village

Pitarakia, little cheese piesTomatokeftedes, fried tomato balls

Just steps away from the harbor in Folegandros, you’ll find the Anemi Hotel. This airy, tranquil sanctuary offers a variety of modern villas with balconies that overlook the sea or the small vineyard just beyond its grounds. A sparkling pool reflects the calm beauty of the surrounding landscape, but if total relaxation is the order of the day, book one of Anemi’s larger suites for exclusive access to an even more luxurious private pool, where you can spend the day in peaceful solitude. At the hotel’s outdoor bar, experience glorious rose-colored sunsets while sipping cocktails, or enjoy exquisitely crafted meals from Lure, Anemi’s own in-house seafood restaurant.

anemihotel.gr

Nicolas' Place in Chora

Mimis in Ano Meria

Kartego Beach is a 45 minute walk and offers a secluded swimming spot