FOURTH QUARTER 2021 ■ VOLUME 5
TENACIOUS TROPHEUS
Snail Trails ■ The Secret to Colorful Plants Filtration Guide ■ A Beautiful Betta Sorority ■ And More aquariumhobbyistmagazine.com
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F eatures
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Fourth Quarter 2021 ■ Vol. 5
• If you would like to write for us, contribute photography, or have your
Melancholia
Art imitating art is one of the greatest compliments, especially when it leads to an impressive impressionist-inspired aquascape. Quentin Charpentier
he Secret to Colorful T Aquarium Plants
Understanding the science behind plant color will give you control over the vibrancy of your planted tank. Kalem Holmes
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Snails: Taking the Good with the Bad
While snails can be pests, they can also solve common problems in your tank. Learn how to use them to your advantage. Timothy Smith
20 Mt. Tropheus
Aquarium Snapshots
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A rewarding Tropheus aquascape overcomes common challenges by following five simple rules. Dustin Lundberg
26 Borneo Corner
This custom biotope-inspired terrarium oozes with plant life. Sergio Maestre
Scaper Spotlight: Ulla Huttunen
Fresh off her first entry into the IAPLC, this amazing aquascaper with a passion for nature and art shares her secrets to success. Jason Oneppo
A Beginner’s Guide to Freshwater Filtration Systems
The heart of every aquarium is its filtration system. Find out which system best suits the aquarium you want to build. Elizabeth Schap
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Oryzias latipes: the Japanese Ricefish
If you are looking for an undemanding colorful fish for small spaces or mini ponds, this might just be the fish for you. Bryson Zheng
42
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A Planted Betta Sorority House
For a betta sorority to be a success, a heavily planted aquarium is essential. Learn about this aquascaper's unique approach. Matt Yun
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4 • Aquarium Hobbyist Magazine
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MELANCHOLIA By Quentin Charpentier
About the Author Quentin is a casting director from Paris, France, who started keeping aquariums at the age of 13. He had been out of the hobby for 12 years until one day, he found a nano tank in the street. Now, scape after scape, layout after layout, he's sharing everything he can on social media. To see more of his work, follow "ParisianScape" on Instagram. 6 • Aquarium Hobbyist Magazine
I
’ve been inspired by those Nymphaea fields I’ve seen in paintings, the movies, and natural gardens my whole life. It might sound odd, but art can be a great source of inspiration for aquascaping. The entire series of Nymphéas paintings from Claude Monet is inspiring, and so is his garden in Giverny, France. The same can be said for the movie Melancholia by Lars Von Trier; remember that scene where Kirsten Dunst is floating on a river in a wedding dress, surrounded
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Top-down view
Chocolate Gourami
by Nymphaea? (This scene itself is inspired by a painting called Ophelia, by John Everett Millais.) Am I obsessed with this plant? Probably! I started using it 3 years ago in a scape, and I must confess, I fell in love with it. This plant is different: it gives you a lot quickly, and then it sleeps for almost half a year, like many other plant bulbs. So, the philosophy of this scape was to be aware of that ephemerality. That is why I also planted a lot of Vallisneria nana behind the entire Nymphaea bush, which will take over when the Nymphaea disappear. This layout has already evolved a lot since day one. It’s pretty young at the moment (3 months), and in a few months, I know I’ll have a completely different scape. And that’s what makes it so unique. Visually, the Nymphaea create one big bush to the eye. The triangular composition is made of only a few plant species. It is not very common to use so few varieties, but I wanted this scape to look as natural as possible, and in nature—as many of you probably aquariumhobbyistmagazine.com
Melancholia • 7
know—it’s exceedingly rare to see numerous plant species in the same place. I used to create a manicured layout with an impressive plant list (all different from one another), so this tank is also a way for me to step out of my comfort zone. I’m afraid of emptiness, and density and diversity are essential to me…so I’m working on myself with this one! I know it will look empty as soon as the Nymphaea sleep for their artificial winter, but I’m getting ready for it!
Aquarium
Chocolate Gouramis and Nymphaea with a shrimp climbing on it
Tank: Aquadesigner Dimensions: ~31″ × 15″ × 15″ Glass: Optiwhite Volume: ~31 gallons Cabinet: custom
Aquascape Style: natural Substrate: Tropica, ADA La Plata Sand Stone: Seiryu Stone Wood: Manzanita Botanicals: magnolia leaves and seed pod, monkey pot, alder cones, banana stem, coconut palm stem, Catappa leaves, and others
Equipment Lighting: Chihiros Vivid 2, 8-hour photoperiod Filter: OASE BioMaster 600 Filter Pipes: stainless steel inflow and outflow Heating: built into the filter CO2: CO2Art system
Maintenance
Chocolate Gouramis
Water Changes: 30 percent weekly with reverse osmosis water Fertilizers: Grotech NutriPlant 1 every 3 days Feeding: frozen bloodworms and Artemia 3 times a week, Tropical Soft Line America, OASE Organix Snack Sticks, and Veggievore Flakes every other day
Plants ‒ Bolbitis heudelotii ‒ Limnobium laevigatum ‒ Microsorum pteropus ‒ Nymphaea zenkeri ‒ Phyllanthus fluitans ‒ Salvinia natans ‒ Vallisneria nana
Fish ‒ Chocolate Gourami (Sphaerichthys osphromenoides) ‒ Glowlight Danio (Danio choprae) ‒ Phoenix Rasbora (Boraras merah) ‒ Reticulated Hillstream Loach (Sewellia lineolata)
Invertebrates Reticulated Hillstream Loaches
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‒ horned nerite snail (Clithon corona) ‒ Amano Shrimp (Caridina multidentata) ‒ Cherry Shrimp (Neocaridina davidi 'Blue Velvet') AH
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The Secret to Colorful Aquarium Plants By Kalem Holmes
W
hen you look at an aquarium, nothing catches your eye like vibrant red-stemmed plants. They first caught my attention in the tanks of Dennis Wong, and that's when it became my goal to grow plants as healthy and colorful as his.
About the Author Kalem is a 20-year-old biochemistry major who started keeping planted tanks when he was 14. He started a YouTube channel in early 2016, where he has documented his entire journey in the hobby. Kalem also shares his tanks on Instagram and TikTok. Search "Kalemsfishtanks" on these platforms to see more of his work. 10 • Aquarium Hobbyist Magazine
To grow healthy plants, the two most important factors to consider are nutrients and light. To grow colorful plants is a bit more than that. While I haven't reached Dennis's level yet, I am getting closer, and in this article, I will share some of the keys to getting healthy, colorful growth. I am a biochemistry major, so bear with me; we're going to get into some of the science behind color. To get bright colors, we must understand what causes plants to change color in the first place. Biological pigments in the plants cause this. There are three main groups: chlorophylls, carotenoids, and anthocyanins. Chlorophylls, which you may be most familiar with, are the pigments that give plants their green color. Carotenoids are responsible for some red, orange, and yellow colors. Anthocyanins give plants their blue, purple, and sometimes red/orange colors. These are all groups of different
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molecules that contribute to the unique colors found in plants. To get good coloration in red plants, the goal is to lower the amount of chlorophyll being produced and increase the amounts of carotenoids and anthocyanins. Chlorophyll is what plants use to carry out photosynthesis, the conversion of light, CO2, and water into food and energy. In tanks with lower amounts of light and CO2, plants will have to generate more chlorophyll to maintain sufficient levels of photosynthesis compared to when CO2 and intense light is used. When plants are provided with abundant light and CO2, they do not need as much chlorophyll. This will cause the plant to break down the chlorophyll, which stimulates the formation of carotenoids. This is what we see in the fall; when the weather cools, the chlorophyll from the plants completely disappears. This causes leaves to turn orange, a result of carotenoids. The difference in our aquariums is we do not want to completely remove chlorophyll, just lower it. Carotenoids function like sunscreen for our plants. When there is high light, they cannot use it all, so they change colors. For example, if a plant is blasted by red light, it will slowly turn red to reflect as much of this light as possible. The tips of plants are often the brightest color because they are closest to the light and are not being shaded by other leaves. Reducing chlorophyll production can be accomplished by ensuring the abundance of light and CO2 and managing nutrients added to the tank. Chlorophyll synthesis occurs at a normal rate in the presence of high amounts of nitrogen and phosphorus. These molecules are present in our aquariums in the form of nitrate and phosphate. In my aquariums, I do not dose any nitrates except in older tanks, where I dose only a minimal amount. This leads to a slower rate of chlorophyll production and more carotenoid formation in plants. I use mainly Tropica Premium Nutrition fertilizer, which is mixed to contain no nitrates or phosphates. It provides potassium as well as all the trace nutrients needed. Since no nitrates are dosed in the water column, the plants need a nutrient-rich substrate. While I use aqua soils in my tanks, a dirted tank would give similar results.
Bucephalandra sp. 'Ghost'
Manipulating all these nutrients and all this science is essential. However, I understand it's not everyone's thing. So let's talk about how to get healthy growth easily. The best way is to invest in a powerful light. This is what I have found to be crucial to success. On my aquariums, I have been loving the new Chihiros WRGB lights. Most of the plants in my aquariums have been grown under the Chihiros Vivid 2 on the red setting. With intense light and CO2, beautiful colors are much easier to achieve in a balanced planted aquarium. Balancing an aquarium refers to having enough nutrients for your plants but not excess that results in algae development. In my tanks, I have achieved a balance by dosing proper amounts of trace elements and potassium. As previously mentioned, I do not dose nitrates in my aquariums. Nitrates on their own rarely lead to algae, but I prefer not to add it since plants in my aquariums, like Rotala macrandra 'Mini Butterfly', are sensitive to nitrates and will respond with stunted growth, even with low amounts in the water column. There are methods for dosing aquariums that are the complete opposite to this approach, like estimative index (EI). This is the addition of substantial amounts of nutrients so that everything will be in excess. aquariumhobbyistmagazine.com
Limnophila aromatica
The Secret to Colorful Aquarium Plants • 11
While EI can also lead to beautiful planted tanks, I have never been able to find the success I wanted with it.
Ludwigia glandulosa
Rotala macrandra 'Mini Butterfly'
12 • Aquarium Hobbyist Magazine
Keeping plants algae-free is much easier when plants have all their biological demands met. In tanks with strong light and CO2, vibrant colors may be easily attained, but the tank must be balanced to prevent algae. When tanks are unbalanced, managing algae growth can become an annoyance. There are a couple of extra things I do to prevent this. Scraping the aquarium glass weekly, even if algae is not visible, can help reduce algae growth, but more importantly, it prevents organic material from building up, which is crucial. Examples of organic material that can impact your tank include shrimp or fish waste and dead leaves. To help with this, dying leaves should be removed during maintenance. After trimming, I ensure all free-floating leaves are removed from the surface. I also use a turkey baster to stir up the substrate during my water changes to remove any loose waste. The buildup of nutrients often promotes the growth of the most annoying algae, like black beard algae and hair algae. Overall, the vibrancy of your plants is greatly limited by the strength of your light. It's hard to define what a strong light is since the instruments to test accurately are not readily available to the average aquarist. I recommend finding tanks you admire and asking what light the aquarist is using. While nutrients play a role, they are only necessary for achieving the best possible results when the other aspects of your tank are optimized. There are many ways to achieve beautiful, bright, colorful plants, and I am grateful to share what I have found to work for me so far. Best of luck in your aquarium, and I hope I have inspired you to grow more colorful aquarium plants. AH
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Ramshorn snail · Shrimplake
SNAILS: TAKING THE GOOD WITH THE BAD By Timothy Smith
About the Author Timothy is a South African ichthyologist and public aquarist who has been keeping fish for over 15 years. You can find his latest aquatic photos and adventures on his Instagram, "tethysea." 14 • Aquarium Hobbyist Magazine
I
t seems inevitable that all fishkeepers will somehow introduce snails into one or more of their aquariums. It’s an easy mistake to make. Any plant or décor from an outside source may be carrying the snails themselves or, more commonly, their eggs. Such things happen to both beginners and more experienced hands alike.
Snails in and of themselves are not terrible creatures. It is only once they reach plague proportions that they become an eyesore or, worse yet, upset the balance of your aquarium. That said, even the
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most common pest snails have utility if you know how to use them. With proper management, they can make very welcome additions to many aquariums. This article aims to highlight some of the more familiar snails, their basic biology, and how we get the most out of them. These invertebrates are typically classified as pests, but some of them can fill important roles in your aquarium.
The Problem, Prevention, and Solutions As stated earlier, snails don’t tend to get on anyone’s nerves until there are hundreds of them covering every square inch of your aquarium. Such an escalation in numbers can be more problematic than just aesthetics; they can begin to contribute significantly to the bioload of your tank. Some species may pose a threat to plants with softer leaves, and snails can take up remarkable amounts of valuable minerals from the water. All of these can have down-the-line effects on your other livestock, so it is best to prevent the problem from occurring in the first place.
Snail eggs
First and foremost, snails thrive on excess food. The resources needed for them to grow and reproduce have to come from somewhere, and usually, this is within your control. In most instances, an excess of food at feeding time can be the source of the problem. Be sure to watch as you feed your fish. Food that is missed or ignored can be swept into tight spaces that only snails can reach. Another food source is abundant algal growth. This, too, is fueled by excesses: too many nutrients and too much light, primarily. Nutrients like ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate can be removed with sufficient filtration and a good water change schedule. Lighting can be adjusted accordingly to more appropriate hours. Controlling the resources snails use can be an overall control method in itself. In the face of scarcity, the population can no longer support such high numbers. This also makes other snail removal solutions, such as baited traps, much easier since the snails will readily take the bait in the absence of other food sources.
Snails hatching
Baited traps left overnight are a relatively simple method that requires little time or effort. A piece of sunken food, such as a slice of vegetable, will draw the snails in. This piece can be removed first thing in the morning along with the cluster of snails inevitably attached to it. Such a method needs to be repeated several nights in a row to see numbers reduced by any significant amount, but bear in mind there is no guarantee all snails will be caught this way. This method also does nothing about the snail egg clusters that may be hidden around the aquarium. Some fishes and invertebrates are renowned snail eaters and can do an excellent job in removing most, if not all, the snails from your aquarium. Caution is advised here: not all snail-eating species are suitable for community aquariums, and some can grow quite large. For example, many species of pufferfish are quite nippy with their tankmates, and some species require brackish water for long-term health. Many loaches will devour snails, but several species grow quite large and won’t suit a smaller tank in the long term. For these reasons, it is advised you pursue other options before settling on a biocontrol agent. aquariumhobbyistmagazine.com
Botia loach . besjunior
Snails: Taking the Good with the Bad • 15
Assassin Snails
That said, there are a handful of suitable candidates for the job. My favorite are Assassin Snails. They’re cryptic yet handsome invertebrates that do an excellent job of tracking down and eliminating pest snails. They can be a little slow—they are snails, after all—meaning that in some cases, they do enough to manage a pest population from becoming a bother rather than completely eliminating it. Assassin populations grow slowly, so they’ll eventually outpace more troublesome infestations.
Ramshorn Snails Ramshorn snails are not a single species but a large, diverse group of snails quickly recognizable by their tall and curled shell. Many species of ramshorn snails can get quite large. The biggest may have shells over an inch across and can look quite impressive in their own right. Ramshorns can do a remarkable job on surface-growing algae. The thin films that often grow on glass, plants, and rocks are among their primary food sources, and they do not harm plants themselves unless the plants are already dying. Ramshorn snails make ideal clean-up snails, especially in fry-rearing tanks. Besides their efficacy in cleaning up excess food to prevent deadly ammonia buildup, they pose no threat to developing fry. One or two in a fry-rearing chamber can do excellent work in keeping the environment clean. Additionally, some reports have stated the snails’ slime trails carry an additional benefit for young fry—either in that the fry may directly consume the mucus of the trail or feed off the microorganisms that bloom there.
Bladder Snails Bladder snails are several small, thin-shelled snail species that are a remarkably common nuisance across the aquarium world. They are so named for their ability to regulate gaseous air within their shells, either gaining buoyancy or sinking. It’s not uncommon to see 16 • Aquarium Hobbyist Magazine
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them grazing upside-down on the surface or to see a snail sitting on a plant one moment and floating away the next. Many types of bladder snails use a method of reproduction called parthenogenesis. This means a single snail can reproduce without a partner, which has implications for their management. If you’re aiming to remove this snail from a system completely, it is essential to be thorough. Even a single remaining snail can lay new clutches of eggs, allowing the problem to persist. Eggs may be laid anywhere but, most frustratingly, are often tucked away out of sight. These snails have been implicated in consuming fish eggs and plants with softer leaves, although such issues may be related to the availability of other food sources.
Malaysian Trumpet Snails Despite the name, this snail species is widespread in fresh waters across Asia and Africa and has unfortunately been introduced to other areas worldwide. Ramshorn snail
These snails have long, cone-like shells that are ideal for moving through sand and gravel. Trumpets readily dig into the substrate, an activity that comes with some pros and cons. On the one hand, they can access detritus that is building up between the gravel particles, improving the overall health of your substrate and preventing excessive anaerobic buildup. This can be especially useful in planted tanks where deep siphoning is not always possible. The snails turn over the gravel and improve sub-gravel conditions. This digging habit does make their removal somewhat tricky. At any given time, most of the population will stay below the substrate, often preferring to only come out at night or in the presence of food. The eggs and newly hatched young are rarely seen above the substrate.
Bladder snail
Their hard shells also prove problematic for snail-eating species, and usually only the adults of such species—like loaches and pufferfishes—seem to overcome their defenses. The popular Assassin Snail is not deterred by the snail’s shell and takes its time to bore through. This colorful snail species can also burrow, making it an excellent choice for Malaysian Trumpet Snail control. Despite this, Malaysian Trumpets make ideal cleanup-crew members, as they spend most of their time below the substrate and rarely become an eyesore. Most reports indicate they do not make a habit of going after fish eggs, although I’d include these snails in a breeding setup with caution.
Malaysian Trumpet Snail
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Snails aren’t for everyone, but they have earned their place in the aquarium hobby. Whether you’re trying to build an effective cleanup crew or eliminate an infestation of plague proportions, there are snails in the hobby that are ready to work. I hope my introduction to the handful of snails in this article has opened the door to some ideas about how snails can contribute to your tank’s health and beauty. AH
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MT. TROPHEUS By Dustin Lundberg
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aquariumhobbyistmagazine.com
Mt. Tropheus • 21
T
en years ago, aquarium fish of the genus Tropheus were highly sought-after. I was introduced to them during the peak of their popularity and was fascinated by their unusual behavior and unique colors and patterns. Sadly, their popularity faded over the years, and I often wondered why. During that time, my wife, Alaina, and I were co-owners of a small aquarium shop in Houston, Texas, and with so much going on in our lives, we thought it would be a challenging species for us to keep. Fast-forward 10 years later, after a new neighbor moved in and showed Alaina and me their 175-gallon bowfront aquarium, we became instant friends and simultaneously were reminded of how much we missed the hobby. We began looking and found a deal on several tanks and were in full swing back into the hobby. We started with several Peacock Cichlids and a Yellow Lab that came with the tanks, but we quickly became bored. Then I remembered how much I always wanted to keep Tropheus. About the Author
Dustin is a sales professional from Atascocita, TX. His parents bought him a betta fish and a bowl when he was around 5 years old, and he has had fish ever since. To see more of his aquascapes, check out "thehomefishroom" on Instagram. 22 • Aquarium Hobbyist Magazine
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aquariumhobbyistmagazine.com
Mt. Tropheus • 23
My wife eventually found an entire adult colony of wild-caught Tropheus sp. 'Bemba' for sale. It was a definite sign. I was filled with excitement, so we quickly made arrangements and picked up the fish. It turned out this species is far from challenging to care for. They are such fun and rewarding fish to keep, with their aggressive yet playful nature. They recognize and even anticipate their keepers. After a long day, it is quite satisfying to be greeted by their excited nature. I have found five simple keys to keeping Tropheus sp. 'Bemba' happy: 1. Perform weekly water changes of 50 percent 2. Install good filtration 3. Prioritize plant-based food and don’t overfeed 4. Use the largest tank you can afford (75+ gallons is preferred) 5. Provide good water flow with a circulation pump or wavemaker because Tropheus are naturally found in the shallows of Lake Tanganyika, where the water is turbulent and highly oxygenated The inspiration and philosophy for the scape was Aquarium Design Group and their simple and clean layout designs.
Aquarium Tank: Neptunian Cube USA Dimensions: 71″ × 21.6″ × 21.6″ Glass: ultra-white, 3/4″ Volume: 144 gallons Cabinet: Neptunian Cube waterproof composite cabinet, piano-black finish
Aquascape Style: hardscape Substrate: sand Stone: 400+ lbs
Equipment Lighting: (3) retrofitted Coralife Aqualight Pro 10-watt, 6,500 K LED flood light, (2) 36″ dimmable LED strip, 8-hour photoperiod Filter: Fluval FX6 Filter Media: mix of various ceramic media, Chemi-pure Blue Heating: 800-watt Hygger heater during the winter Wavemaker: Jebao CP-150 Cross-Flow Wave Pump with controller Auto Top-Off: Fzone with 20-gallon reservoir
Maintenance Water Changes: 50–75 percent weekly Feeding: New Life Spectrum Gel Mix: Algaemax Formula and Cichlid pellets, Sera Granugreen Nature, and Omega One Super Veggie twice daily
Fish – wild-caught Tropheus sp. 'Bemba' AH 24 • Aquarium Hobbyist Magazine
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aquariumhobbyistmagazine.com
Mt. Tropheus • 25
B ORNEO CORNER By Sergio Maestre
T
his biotope is a recreation of a natural jungle space on the island of Borneo, a planted, self-sufficient, and balanced enclosure. The idea is to bring a piece of nature to a small space while maintaining a consistent aesthetic and capturing the beauty of the rainforest.
Most of the plants here are endemic to Borneo. The hardscape is composed solely of driftwood, and the display contains over 15 species of Fissidens moss. This terrarium is custom-made with a design that allows for removing the top and front glass covers for easy maintenance and setup. As a result of this system’s design, the hardscape could be assembled outside of the enclosure and then inserted in one piece. The terrarium About the Author Sergio lives in Alicante, Spain. He started in the aquarium hobby at age 15 and is now the CEO of PremiumBuces aquarium and terrarium shop. He also writes articles about the aquarium hobby in his blog. Before starting this adventure, he worked as a professional photographer.
Nepenthes sp. 'Bloody Mary'
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bottom is made of a synthetic fabric where mosses and epiphytic plants can take root until they cover the entire bottom. The epiphytic plants are anchored to the surface on a layer of keto, a kind of mud commonly used in bonsai, which offers a good base for mosses and plants. I hadn’t used this technique before, but it seems to give excellent results. Irrigation is automatic and is activated three times a day through sprayers (removed for photos) attached to a coffee machine pump. Simultaneously, a small fan is turned on to promote air circulation. Additionally, a fog system is installed to simulate the cloud zones in the jungle. This bioactive terrarium is maintained with minimal work, less than 10 minutes per month. Trimming is not necessary due to the slow growth of the plants. The Bucephalandra are constantly blooming. Many macrofauna inhabit this terrarium and are responsible for recycling waste and creating an ecological balance. The setup is designed mainly for aquatic and terrestrial plants. The light is progressively ramped on and off each day, simulating sunrise
Bucephalandra sp. 'Mini Coin'
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aquariumhobbyistmagazine.com
Borneo Corner • 27
Bucephalandra sp. 'Mini Coin' on driftwood
Background detail
Fissidens sp. 'Mini Borneo'
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Argostemma sp. 'Kapuas Hulu' and Bucephalandra blooming
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with yellow tones and sunset with blue for an hour each. The design is inspired by aquascaping techniques taken to the terrarium sector. In our workplace, we have a small gallery with aquarium and terrarium displays, which can be seen on our Instagram account “premiumbuces.” This is a little corner of nature that we can enjoy from the comfort of our sofa.
Terrarium Enclosure: custom Dimensions: ~12″ × 12″ × 20″ Glass: low iron, optical
Volume: ~12 gallons Cabinet: industrial style, custom-made table
Terrascape Style: biotope Substrate: aquarium soil, keto on the bottom, drainage with pumice stone, activated charcoal Wood: driftwood similar to mangrove wood Other: leaf litter, dried fern leaves
Equipment Lighting: Chihiros WRGB2 30, 9-hour photoperiod Watering System: coffee machine pump with sprayer, external fog system
Maintenance Water Changes: siphon excess water from the bottom every 2 weeks Fertilizers: Qualdrop Basic Grow and Basic FE Forte sprayed once a month Feeding: SALTYBEE Shrimp AllTake once a week
Plants ‒ Homalomena sp. 'Sekadau' ‒ Homalomena sp. 'Green' ‒ Argostemma sp. 'Kapuas Hulu' ‒ Piptospatha ridleyi ‒ Piptospatha perakensis ‒ Nepenthes sp. 'Bloody Mary' ‒ Aridarum cf. caulescens ‒ Fenestratum cf. culum ‒ Bolbitis sp. 'Sekadau' ‒ Bolbitis sp. 'Dragon Tail' ‒ Vesicularia ferriei 'Weeping Moss' ‒ Cryptocoryne cf. aura ‒ Fissidens sp. 'Miroshaki' ‒ Fissidens sp. 'Mini Borneo' ‒ Fissidens cf. nobilis ‒ Fissidens spp. ‒ Bucephalandra cf. kishii ‒ Bucephalandra sp. 'Mini Coin' ‒ Bucephalandra sp. 'Catherinae'
Invertebrates ‒ Tropical Springtails (Collembola sp.) ‒ Dwarf White Isopods (Trichorhina tomentosa) AH aquariumhobbyistmagazine.com
Borneo Corner • 29
Scaper Spotlight: Ulla Huttunen
Aquaflora A-Team Member By Jason Oneppo
M
“Remember, every tank is unique, so the guidelines you find are mainly a signpost to show you where to go. You must do the walking yourself.”
y name is Ulla Huttunen. I am from Finland and live in a town called Tampere. I currently work as an early childhood education counselor. I was a teacher in an early childhood education center for almost 10 years before this. Between work, family, and aquascaping, I try to provide information about aquascaping in Finnish by writing and translating articles. I am a proud member of the beautiful Aquaflora A-team since November 2020, a wooly sock fan, a mother, and a nature explorer. Nature has been a big part of my life from an early age. According to my parents, I have always had a strong connection with water. I learned how to swim when I was only 3 years old, and at the same time, I had the opportunity to see my father and oldest brother go diving in the Indian Ocean in Mombasa, Kenya. Not being able to dive yet because I was too young, I had to settle with admiring the underwater life from a boat with a glass bottom. From that moment, my heart belonged to the big blue and everything that lived there. I grew up in two countries, Ethiopia and Finland—two different yet beautiful places. I took my first steps as a nature explorer on a ground consumed with erosion, became friends with a huge wild fig tree, learned to love the smell of burning acacia, and got used to hearing the hyena laughs every evening. It took a while to take my other homeland, Finland, as my own. Eventually, I found my peace and source of inspiration in the dark spruce forests, the smell of wet moss, and the black lakes I now love. Having some underwater life at home came a bit later in the form of a pink-framed tank with plastic plants and a fish soup no one should ever have.
About the Author Jason lives in Warwick, RI, is a co-founder of AHM, and has been in the aquarium industry for over 30 years. He has worked in retail stores, livestock wholesalers, and manufacturing. 30 • Aquarium Hobbyist Magazine
The Secret Garden of Thumbelina, IAPLC 2021 World Ranking: 495, Tank: ADA 60p (~23" × 11" × 14")
Q: How did you get started in aquascaping? A: I am a creative person. I love exploring nature, but I express myself through art, mainly drawing, writing, or painting. Aquascaping combines my two greatest passions: nature and art. I heard about aquascaping in 2007 when I had my first 350-liter, low-tech planted tank. I was going through pictures of Amazon biotopes, and suddenly this breathtaking Iwagumi was in front of my eyes. I went through more photos of amazing scapes and was blown away that someone could make something so beautiful in a glass box. At the time, I was too afraid to try anything like that myself, but the spark was there, slowly growing and catching fire. After over 10 years of pause from the hobby, in spring 2019, I got a 23-liter Fluval Edge from my spouse for my birthday present. I wanted to turn it into an underwater garden. At the time, I did not know much about growing plants, and my knowledge of water chemistry was weak. That led to a bad start but made me determined to learn more. I joined different Finnish Facebook groups and a forum called AquaWeb to find out how to keep plants alive. Soon, I had a CO2 system running and many different plants growing quite nicely in that tiny nano. After a while, I started to gather information about aquascaping from various sources. I realized there are not many aquascapers I could ask for advice in Finland, so I joined some international Facebook groups and went through English websites for more information. From YouTube, I found George Farmer, Jurjis Jutjajevs, and Green Aqua. In August 2019, after many months of intense studying, I made my first hardscape in a 140-liter Optiwhite tank, and that was it—I was hooked. Q: There are different styles of Aquascaping: Dutch, Nature Aquarium, Diorama, etc. What’s your favorite one and why? A: Diorama has its charm; it is something I want to try one day. However, the Nature Aquarium style feels more like my own. It’s recreating these details and wonders I cross into when exploring the forest or memories from childhood on a tree I used to climb. I feel that through Nature Aquarium, I can express myself more freely. It does not tie me down with too strict of rules, and only my imagination and creativity limit what I can do.
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Algae eaters are really important for keeping the tank clean, but they can also be beautiful. Pictured here is an Amano Shrimp with blue spots.
Q: You have a lot of gorgeous scapes densely planted with a wide variety of plant species. What three tips can you give to beginner or even advanced aquascapers to achieve this look? A: 1. Take your time to learn the basics. Go through websites, forums, and YouTube. 2. Explore nature. Go around, eyes to the ground, and focus on the details. When you see something you like, take a photo of it. 3. Go crazy with the plant variety, and use a strong hardscape as the backbone of your work. Q: How do you choose the plants for your aquascapes? A: This is a difficult question. I love mixing up different mosses and plants together. For example, Vesicularia montagnei mixing up with small Bucephalandra, and Glossostigma creeping up somewhere between. I usually go for a look I have seen in the forest where different plants crawl on top of mosses that grow on stones and roots. After I have done the hardscape, there is a moment of uncertainty. I have the vision in my head, but I might not know what plants to use to achieve that vision. In these times, other aquascapers are precious. Reflecting on the idea with someone helps the process a lot. Many times, I get tips about new plant species or ways to use them. I like to use many fast-growing stem plants because of the bushy look and texture you get by mixing up different ones, like Rotala species. A wide variety of plants help keep the water parameters steady because plants consume nutrients differently. This is something I try to keep in mind while choosing the plants. If I have many nitrate consumers in the tank, I have to change my dosing regimen according to their needs. A good aquatic plant book comes in handy when I make my final decision on the plants. Q: Do you have a favorite species of fish and invertebrate that you use to help keep your aquascapes algae-free? A: I’m really bad at picking favorites since I feel like I don’t know all of them well enough yet. So far, I like Amano Shrimp and Caridina babaulti for algae eaters. Also, Clithon corona and Otocinclus species are useful and fun to watch. Just recently, I realized how amazing ramshorn snails are. They eat rotten leaves and all kinds of algae aquariumhobbyistmagazine.com
"Näkki vol. 2" is named after an evil water spirit from Finnish mythology and Scandinavian folklore.
(including black beard algae and staghorn), and they are quite beautiful. After adding them to my tanks, all algae are gone, and the tanks are much more balanced than ever before. Q: What are some of your must-have products? A: A good bacteria product and a turkey baster. I can’t live without them anymore. With plant nutrients, I like to have nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium separately alongside a good all-in-one fertilizer. I find it easier to meet the plants' needs this way. Because I like to use a lot of plants, an excellent aquatic plant book is essential. My number one guide is Christel Kasselmann’s Aquarium Plants. Q: How about one last piece of wisdom that encompasses your aquascaping philosophy? A: Be brave and crazy. Trust that Mother Nature will do her part after you’ve given her the best tools. Remember, every tank is unique, so the guidelines you find are mainly a signpost to show you where to go. You must do the walking yourself. Since I love to use quotes, I’ll share one of my favorite ones with you: “Look deep into nature, and then you’ll understand everything better.” —Albert Einstein To see more of Ulla's scapes, look up "ullalaaqua" on Instagram and Facebook. AH Scaper Spotlight: Ulla Huttunen • 31
Mechanism and parts of a canister filter · ROXART Agency
A BEGINNER’S GUIDE TO FRESHWATER FILTRATION SYSTEMS By Elizabeth Schap
W
hen setting up freshwater aquariums, the most important piece of equipment to consider is the filtration system. Installing the correct filtration system will help control
About the Author Elizabeth is a high school science teacher from Baltimore, MD, where she teaches a course about aquaculture research and tank construction. She spends her weekends as a part-time educator at the National Aquarium. Her favorite fish is the arowana. 32 • Aquarium Hobbyist Magazine
waste buildup, promote beneficial bacterial growth, and aerate the water. Purchasing underpowered or incorrect filtration for your aquarium can be just as detrimental to fish and plant health as not having a filter at all.
Why an Aquarium Needs a Filter As aquarium keeping has evolved, so has our understanding of the needs of a healthy system. Aquariums that lack a filtration system are prone to water stagnation, where the absence of water movement and aeration causes bacterial growth from the collection of decayed waste. Without properly balanced filtration methods, ammonia and
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Mechanical, biological, and chemical filtration · M. Schuppich
nitrogen compounds will build up to toxic levels that can be lethal to plants and animals. Aquariums should have at least a basic filtration system that allows for water movement, aeration, and, ideally, solid waste removal. This can lessen the frequency of complete or partial water changes and minimizes stress on the organisms. While it is possible to achieve a balanced aquarium using the Walstad Method, which uses only plants as natural filtration in systems with small bioloads (see AHM Q2 2021), most tanks are not able to sustain healthy water parameters without a filtration system.
Filtration Methods The three methods of filtration are biological, chemical, and mechanical. As aquarium keeping and aquascaping have grown in popularity and affordability, so too have the choices in filtration systems. Different filtration systems use different methods. Some filtration systems use all three methods, while others make use of only one or two. Biological filtration promotes the life and growth of beneficial bacteria. Filtration systems that employ this method have media or bioballs aquariumhobbyistmagazine.com
A Beginner’s Guide to Freshwater Filtration Systems • 33
that provide ammonia- and nitrogen-eating bacteria a space to accumulate and grow. The bacteria convert the ammonia and nitrogen compounds into less toxic forms during the nitrogen cycle. Chemical filtration is the use of media, through chemical reactions, to trap dissolved organic compounds and other pollutants so they can be removed from the water. Activated carbon is an example of a frequently used chemical filtration media.
Undergravel filter
Mechanical filtration is the most familiar filtration method. It involves the physical removal of particulates by passing water through media such as sponges, floss, or pads. Many beginners incorrectly believe this is the only filtration needed. This method only prevents the further decay of waste and cannot remove the waste already dissolved into the water. Optimally, mechanical filtration should be the first stage of the filtration process, followed by biological filtration, then chemical filtration, if any.
Types of Filtration Systems Which system is best for any aquarium setup will depend on many factors. In addition to different aeration, water flow, and cleaning capabilities, each system will also give different visual, sound, and space challenges. Here you will find information on the most common types of freshwater filtration systems, describing the situations for best use as well as their pros and cons.
Undergravel Undergravel filtration systems are common in starter-aquarium kits. They make use of a plate that lies under the substrate. The plate pulls water through the substrate (the mechanical filter media for this system), trapping debris within it. The substrate also acts as a biological filter here, but there is no chemical filtration. Undergravel systems provide almost no visual obstruction to the internal aquarium setup. This system lends itself to tanks absent of plants and lightly stocked setups of 55 gallons or less. The key to these filters is proper maintenance. They are a budget-friendly option, costing between $8 and $40.
Sponge
Sponge filter
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Sponge filters sit inside the tank and are attached to an airline and air pump, drawing water through the sponge. This system uses mechanical and biological filtration; water is pulled through the sponge, trapping debris, and bacteria colonize the sponge material. This system is excellent at aerating the water in smaller tanks and creates a bubble effect that some people find visually pleasing.
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These filters are ideal for isolation tanks, fry tanks, breeding tanks, and smaller tanks (under 20 gallons), although there are varieties available for aquariums up to 75 gallons. At $5 to $50, these systems are a budget-friendly option.
Hang-on-Back Hang-on-back (HOB) filtration systems, sometimes called power filters, are among the most commonly used and budget-friendly systems. Aptly named, the power portion and media container hang on the back of the aquarium while an intake tube pulls water up from the tank. These allow for the use of all three filtration methods if desired. HOB systems produce gentle water flow and can be very quiet when maintained correctly. Maintenance is relatively easy with HOB systems, and minor equipment issues can often be fixed rather easily. The systems are easy to restart and prime, making them an excellent choice for beginners. These systems are best suited for 5- to 80-gallon aquariums but should only be used on tanks with lighter bioloads. HOB systems are affordable, with a starting price of around $10 and increasing from there.
Hang-on-back filter
Canister Canister filtration systems have become a favorite with hobbyists due to their power and ability to be easily concealed. As the name implies, this filtration system consists of a canister unit. It can be layered with multiple types of media,
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Canister filter
A Beginner’s Guide to Freshwater Filtration Systems • 35
Wet/dry trickle filter · Eshopps
making it another system capable of employing all three filtration methods. Aquarium water enters the canister through an intake tube and is then pulled through the layers of filtration media before being pumped back into the tank through a return pipe. This system also provides aeration, which is good for bacteria and fish alike. These filtration systems are available for nano- to large-sized aquariums and are excellent for systems with larger bioloads. While the canister can be quite large, it is one of the easiest to conceal, as it can be placed under the aquarium. Some canister filters use baskets to hold filter media and keep the layers separated. · Igor Chus
Canisters can be set up quickly, but these filters are sometimes challenging for beginners. They require regular cleaning, and those without priming pumps or that are not self-priming can be difficult to restart, especially if there is a mechanical problem. Canisters range from around $35 to several hundred dollars per unit.
Wet/Dry Trickle Wet/dry trickle filters are gaining in popularity with experienced freshwater aquarists. Using gravity and power, trickle filters allow water to flow through biomedia, floss, or other substrates colonized by beneficial bacteria. The filtered water is returned to the aquarium via a pump. Wet/dry trickle systems are also one of the best choices for heavily stocked aquariums or those with “messy” fish. Trickle filters can be expensive, starting at around $275 for a complete acrylic system, or a $30 kit can be purchased that converts aquariums into functioning wet/dry trickle filters.
Bioballs are biological filter media used in wet/ dry trickle filters to hold the beneficial bacteria.
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Whether it is your first aquarium, bought complete in a box, or your next large project, filtration systems are the basis for a healthy aquarium. When deciding on which to purchase, look at the type of organisms that will live in the setup and consider their needs and waste output. There is an affordable filtration system for every type of setup, and once installed, you can start to build a healthy and visually pleasing aquarium. AH
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A Beginner’s Guide to Freshwater Filtration Systems • 37
Oryzias latipes:
the Japanese Ricefish By Bryson Zheng
M
edaka, or Japanese Ricefish, are interesting fish that have gained popularity in the United States. Aptly named for their natural habitat of rice fields and similar niches,
About the Author Bryson is from San Francisco, CA, and became interested in planted aquariums in 7th grade after his parents said no to pet reptiles. To see more of his work, look up "unso.fish.ticated" on Instagram and YouTube. 38 • Aquarium Hobbyist Magazine
Japanese Ricefish have been selectively bred, much like the guppy, into various strains. While there aren't as many strains of Medaka in the United States, there are reportedly upward of 500 varieties in Japan! Notable strains available in the United States include Red Cap, Tricolor, Red King, Miyuki, and Youkihi.
History Medaka were first selectively bred in Japan during the 17th century but have been kept as pets since the 15th century. Orange was the first color to be isolated from the rather drab colors of wild Oryzias
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latipes. The light-orange fish are known as Himedaka and are commonly used as feeder fish in present-day Japan. With a lot of time, patience, and tubs, breeders have developed many color varieties of this fish. Most strains produced are meant to be viewed from the top and kept in vessels that allow for such. In addition to being easy-to-keep pets, Japanese Ricefish have also been extensively used in scientific research. Whereas American labs often use the Zebrafish (Danio rerio) as model organisms, Japanese researchers use O. latipes. Medaka have played a vital role in toxicological, developmental, behavioral, carcinogenesis, and genetic research. Medaka have also been sent to space and are the first vertebrates to have reproduced there!
Care Requirements Medaka are incredibly resilient fish. They can survive in a wide range of temperatures, from 32 to 100° F. While they can tolerate these temperatures, it is strongly recommended to keep Medaka in less extreme conditions to prolong their lifespan. They do not require heaters and prefer fluctuations, one of their many attractive features. Medaka can still be kept outside year-round in a climate with distinct seasonality, so long as their container is deep enough not to freeze through. During the winter, one can move the ricefish indoors to continue enjoying them. The metabolism of Medaka start to slow at temperatures below 50° F. Their appetite and activity decrease to the point where they stay motionless near the bottom of the water column. They will continue to eat until temperatures reach below freezing but at a much slower rate, as their bodies cannot process large amounts of food. They will enter a stasis of sorts at freezing temperatures—not unlike hibernation—where they sustain themselves with fat reserves. Medaka do not require specific water parameters; one can keep them in just about any water, if dechlorinated. Descending from fish living in highly variable environments allows Medaka to tolerate and thrive in various water conditions. While Medaka are hardy fish, it does not mean they should be mistreated. Full-sized fish can reach around 1.5 inches (4 cm) and live for about 2 years on average. As a rule of thumb, I like to give adults at least a gallon each. With abundant plants, I would be comfortable with higher stocking densities.
Kohaku (amber) Lamé Medaka · Robbey Cuevas's Medaka Garage
Sapphire Lamé Medaka · Robbey Cuevas's Medaka Garage
These fish are primarily carnivorous and are not picky eaters. They’ll accept a huge variety of foods, just as long as it stays near or on the surface of the water. Their upturned mouths are made to skim the water’s surface for invertebrates. I notice that when pellets or flakes sink a few inches into the water column, Medaka will largely ignore them. It is imperative to have a cleanup crew or to feed only small amounts at a time. Dry foods can be provided for efficiency and simplicity, but live foods such as water fleas (Daphnia and Moina), baby brine shrimp (Artemia), and mosquito larvae are relished. Medaka will also peck at biofilm in their living areas, likely eating microorganisms and algae. In warm temperatures, Medaka are voracious eaters that will eat throughout the day.
Breeding Medaka are naturally seasonal spawners. In the wild, the breeding season for Medaka lasts from spring to early autumn. To maintain the health of the fish, it is important to give them a break from breeding. aquariumhobbyistmagazine.com
Ulysses Lamé Medaka · Robbey Cuevas's Medaka Garage
Oryzias latipes: the Japanese Ricefish • 39
Females will begin to produce eggs if temperatures do not dip below ~60° F. To facilitate the proper health of your fish when they breed, the water quality must remain stable and clean. In addition, all breeding fish (especially females) should be provided with high-quality food multiple times a day to replenish the energy and nutrients used to produce eggs. I like to feed my breeders at least three times a day when they’re spawning. Underfeeding burns out female fish and decreases their lifespan, as it deviates from their natural rhythm.
A 12-gallon tub houses my Red Cap Medaka along with Neocaridina and snails.
Japanese Ricefish have a peculiar way of distributing their eggs. While fertilization is internal and occurs in the early morning, the eggs are laid into the female fish’s ventral fins and held together in a clump by sticky filaments. The female fish spends the morning to early afternoon swimming among aquatic plants to deposit the eggs. The eggs then develop according to temperature. Warmer water allows the eggs to hatch within a week of being laid. I’ve found the ideal egg-hatching temperature ranges from 70 to 80° F. While adults can prey on eggs or fry, a densely planted container allows for the survival of some fish. It is also possible to collect the eggs and raise them separately to ensure a higher survival rate. The fry are extremely easy to care for and can simply be left to fend for themselves in a heavily planted vessel. They will accept powdered fry foods when they hatch and can be raised on a strictly dry-food diet. Fry can grow quickly when given optimal conditions; one can raise a newly hatched fry to sexual maturity in 3 months.
Setups I keep my Medaka in a variety of ways. My adults live outdoors in plastic tubs and ceramic pots, while my fry live indoors in tanks until they reach a size where they can compete with adults. Dedicated breeders often keep their Medaka in rows of neatly organized tubs for simplicity’s sake. If aesthetic appeal compels you to keep Medaka, a simple 5-gallon pot with a water lily would serve as a great display.
When keeping Medaka for simple enjoyment, a mini pond is an ideal choice.
Mini ponds have become quite popular and are a perfect vessel for Medaka. Similar to an aquarium, a mini pond provides many options in design and look. I like to place a thin layer of sand on the bottom of my container as a base layer of substrate. I don’t plant directly into the bottom substrate; I like to use a terracotta or plastic pot filled with aqua soil or sifted potting mix capped with sand to hold my rooted plants. The result is a container with a grouping of plants and ample swimming space for the Medaka. Some examples of plants commonly used include papyrus (Cyperus sp.), Water Hyacinth (Eichhornia crassipes), Water Lettuce (Pistia stratiotes), Hornwort (Ceratophyllum demersum), lilies (Nymphaea and Nymphoides), and Parrot’s Feather (Myriophyllum aquaticum). Other popular configurations of mini ponds include the use of Wabi-kusa balls, planting directly into the container, or strictly using only floating plants. A mini pond stocked with Medaka is a great way to expand your aquatic hobby without needing to purchase another aquarium.
Epilogue
This mini pond is dominated by Juncus effusus and allows for easy viewing of fish.
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I know I’ve become a Medaka maniac! These fascinating ricefish are perfect for piquing the interest of beginning aquarists or rekindling a seasoned old-timer’s flame. With various strains to choose from and many ways to keep them, one can easily see how and why Medaka have become popular, seemingly overnight. AH
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A PLANTED BETTA SORORITY HOUSE By Matt Yun
About the Author Matt is a professional photographer from L.A. County. When he was growing up, his father used to buy him goldfish, but he didn't get into the hobby until 2017. It wasn't until 2019 that he became passionate about aquascaping. To see more of his work, look up "Matt's Aquarium" on YouTube and "mattsaquarium" on Facebook and Instagram.
I
have seen many successful betta sorority tanks that feature beautiful bettas. However, I wanted to create one that showcased the plants as well as the fish. For a betta sorority to be successful, it is vital to have a heavily planted tank so the bettas have many places to hide in case of any aggression. In this tank, I decided to go with two large bunches of stem plants in the back corners of the aquascape to give them the hiding spots they need. I specifically chose Galaxy Koi Bettas because I wanted them to resemble small koi fish in the aquascape.
Galaxy Koi Bettas and Ember Tetras
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A Planted Betta Sorority House • 43
Galaxy Koi Bettas
Another thing I was trying to do with my betta sorority was to have a common theme of color and pattern instead of mixing different varieties. This way, the sorority would look more natural in the aquascape. Having this sorority tank has been a unique experience compared to my other tanks. It has tested my ability to maintain a good aquascape while properly taking care of the bettas.
Aquarium Tank: Aqua Japan Dimensions: ~23″ × 14″ × 16″ Glass: low iron, ~0.2″ thick Volume: 21 gallons Cabinet: IKEA
Aquascape Style: Nature Style/diorama hybrid Substrate: ADA Amazonia, ADA Power Sand Advance, ADA La Plata Sand Stone: Manten Stone
Equipment Lighting: Ultum Nature Systems Titan 1, 6-hour photoperiod Filter: EHEIM 2217 canister Filter Media: EHEIM Substrat Pro, Seachem Matrix Filter Pipes: VIV glass lily pipes Heating: Hydor ETH 300 (inline) CO2: Qanvee CO2 inline atomizer Sterilizer: Twinstar M5 Surface Skimmer: ADA Vuppa
Maintenance Water Changes: 50 percent weekly Fertilizers: 3 pumps of ADA Green Brighty K, 3 pumps of ADA Green Brighty Mineral, 2 pumps of ADA Green Brighty Nitrogen, and 2 pumps of ADA Green Brighty Iron after every water change Additives: SaltyShrimp Bee Shrimp Mineral GH+ Feeding: API Tropical Flakes for the Ember Tetras, crushed Hikari Vibra Bites for the bettas
Plants ‒ Micranthemum tweediei 'Monte Carlo' ‒ Hemianthus callitrichoides 'Cuba' ‒ Eleocharis belem 44 • Aquarium Hobbyist Magazine
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A Planted Betta Sorority House • 45
Galaxy Koi Betta
‒ Eleocharis acicularis ‒ Anubias barteri var. nana 'Petite' ‒ Bucephalandra sp. 'Paris' ‒ Bucephalandra sp. 'Brownie Kapuas' ‒ Bucephalandra sp. 'Theia Sekadau' ‒ Hygrophila pinnatifida ‒ Rotala sp. 'Green' ‒ Rotala sp. 'H’Ra' ‒ Rotala sp. 'Vietnam' ‒ Rotala sp. 'Nanjenshan' ‒ Rotala sp. 'Mini Butterfly' ‒ Rotala wallichii ‒ Tonina fluviatilis ‒ Alternanthera reineckii 'Mini' ‒ Mini Weeping Moss ‒ Bolbitis heudelotii ‒ Microsorum pteropus 'Narrow' ‒ Eriocaulon ratnagiricum ‒ Blyxa japonica
Fish ‒ Galaxy Koi Betta (Betta splendens) ‒ Ember Tetras (Hyphessobrycon amandae) ‒ Otocinclus catfish
Invertebrates Galaxy Koi Betta
46 • Aquarium Hobbyist Magazine
‒ Amano Shrimp (Caridina multidentata) ‒ horned nerite snails (Clithon sp.) AH
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A Planted Betta Sorority House • 47