Cape Town is back, baby and

Capetonians did not sit on their laurels during 2020 and 2021. No, the Mother City has seemingly used the time to become more inspired, more creative and more fabulous! By Tess De Klerk

It has to be said that travel during the last year had, at times, been hit and miss. Some holiday destinations felt in the grasp of a bad hangover, shell-shocked and trying hard to rediscover their je ne sais quoi. Not so with Cape Town. The hubbub of Camps Bay, for example, is as vibrant as it had always been. Bree Street’s bars are busy and the entire city is abuzz with enthusiasm and ideas. New restaurants, menus and experiences abound and creativity floats everywhere. It’s impossible not to be swept up by the charge of excitement in the air.

Everyone should visit this majestic city at the edge of Africa at least once in their lives and now is a great time to go with temperate climates and the famous Cape Doctor wind past its overzealous season. Expect balmy days and comfortably cool nights well into May... then again, expect that all year long in the sunny Cape.

The rugged beauty of its coastline dotted with giant granite boulders and pristine white beaches, overlooked by the 500 million-year-old Table Mountain, its flanks carpeted with greens and indigenous fynbos flora, inevitably leaves visitors in awe of this southern tip of Mother Africa. Its cosmopolitan-cool attitude feels intimate and welcoming with friendly faces, excellent food and wine and fantastic accommodation available at feel-good prices.

SOAK IN THE ATMOSPHERE IN CITY BOWL

Immerse yourself in City Bowl; a natural amphitheatre-shaped area bordered by Table Bay and defined by the mountains of Signal Hill, Lion’s Head, Table Mountain and Devil’s Peak. The Bowl holds some of the most interesting and historically significant neighbourhoods such as Bo Kaap, Oranjezicht, Tamboerskloof and Gardens which provide hours of easy meandering, trendy restaurants and fascinating historical sights.

TABLE MOUNTAIN

Seep in the soul of Cape Town from atop the ever-present Table Mountain. You’d be hard-pressed to find a more spectacular view than that of the Atlantic and Indian oceans merging under the African sky.

I suggest hiking the Plattekloof Gorge (1h30 -2h) or the awe-inspiring Skeleton Gorge (5h) to the mountain top to really take in the unique fauna and flora of the area or simply hop into the cable cars from City Bowl.

Abseil from Table Mountain which is the world’s highest commercial abseil location, standing at 112 metres, for serious scenery and bragging rights! www.capextreme.com ZEITZ MOCAA MUSEUM, V&A WATERFRONT

Definitely don’t miss the world’s most extensive collection of contemporary African art housed in the spectacularly refurbished 1930s grain silo complex. It is refreshing to see such a variety of art, hopefully reframing the notion of African art as only ‘crafts’. zeitzmocaa.museum

BOULDER’S BEACH FOR PENGUIN WATCHING

You’re just about guaranteed to see the famous African penguins at Boulder’s. In fact, they’re likely to come within touching distance but, of course, don’t touch or feed these adorable creatures, they are wild animals in their natural habitat. The beach is named after the ancient granite boulders that protect it from wind and large waves, making it an ideal swimming spot throughout the year.

WHALE AND DOLPHIN WATCHING

The Cape waters are home to a wealth of resident dolphins, porpoises and whales all year round but it is the annual migration of the Humpback, Bryde’s and southern right whale in particular, between June and November, that allows for exceptional land-based, and boat-based, whale watching in South Africa. www.boatcompany.co.za

MOUNT NELSON BELMOND HOTEL

Cape Town’s iconic pink lady opened her doors in 1899 and has attracted a wellheeled mix of loyal guests ever since. Service is impeccable, interiors are glamorous, gardens immaculately groomed and the number of restaurants, bars and city sights within strolling distance to its doorstep are plentiful. This urban oasis is my Cape Town favourite.

From £254 PRPN www.belmond.com/south-africa

< CHINCHILLA ROOFTOP CAFÉ AND BAR, CAMPS BAY

Arguably the best spot for a sundowner with its impressive views over the ocean and the iconic Lions Head and Twelve Apostles mountains. Over weekends resident DJs start on the decks from late afternoon until sunset which create a buzzy vibe. The crowd is mixed and inclusive. www.chinchillarooftop.co.za

> GRAND AFRICA CAFÉ AND BEACH, V&A WATERFRONT

Not quite as grand as the name suggests but definitely not a beach shack either. Sit back, enjoy views of the harbour, sand between your toes, good pizza and a choice of excellent spirits and wines. www.grandafrica.com CAPE GRACE

Everyone loves a classic, particularly the kind where the service might lull you into thinking you’re the only one at the hotel. That’s no small thing, especially considering Cape Grace has hosted famous tycoons, diplomats, and Clintons aplenty. Though the hotel only opened its doors in 1996, it harkens back to a bygone era. Elegant rooms evoke the surrounding area’s nautical heritage, and many have views of Table Mountain. Cape Grace’s unbeatable location, at the heart of the popular V&A Waterfront district, makes for easy access to prime Cape Town sites.

From £360 PRPN www.capegrace.com

> THE PIANO BAR, DE WATERKANT

This cosy cocktail club in the middle of De Waterkant is reminiscent of the classic New York jazz bar, with live music every evening. Check the lineup before heading out as entertainment ranges from fantastic solo artists on the baby grand to more lively indie pop. www.thepianobar.co.za DORP BOUTIQUE HOTEL

Dorp, meaning “village” in Afrikaans, defies categorisation. It is not for those looking for an onsite gym, spa or conference room to be sure. No, it is for those who will appreciate the utterly original with streaks of artistic genius, for those looking for a stay which will be long remembered. Dorp is a passion project of creative maverick, Gail Behr and the complete antithesis of chain hotels. Highly recommended.

From £195 PRPN www.dorp.co.za