Antigua: land of 365 beaches

By Tess De Klerk

Travelling to the Caribbean in August this year was... different. Things felt reserved and strained, which is no great surprise considering the pandemic. I suppose we were naive in imagining a typical pre-pandemic type of Caribbean vibe on an island economy affected by Covid and, I hate to add, an especially aggressive influx of sargassum seaweed to the southeast of the island where we stayed. Fortunately, with 365 beaches to choose from we only had to hop in our Jeep to find some of those fabled golden white sands and aquamarine waters.

n Check sargassum predictions n Book a rental vehicle - the best way to explore the island offerings. n East Caribean dollars and US dollars are accepted everywhere and both use the same dollar symbol ($) but prices won’t necessarily be listed with the necessary USD or XCD, therefore it's worth checking before paying. n Make sure to pack only oceanfriendly and reef-safe sun care. n Keep in mind that Antigua has a tropical savannah climate with recurrent droughts; use water sparingly.

HIT THE SILKY SOFT SANDS All beaches in Antigua are open to the public with varying degrees of accessibility. You're never far from the water on this small island (circumference of 55 miles) with a shoreline indented with a multitude of beaches, lagoons, and natural harbours. Some beaches enjoy the Caribbean's calm waters while others pick up on the choppiness of the Atlantic. Our one week trip only covered a dozen or so beaches and we liked them all. We avoided the southeast due to the presence of sargassum.

GALLEON BAY Our favourite had to have been Galleon Beach since I was lucky enough to snorkel with critically endangered Hawksbill Turtles. These two beauties were calmy chomping away at sea sponges and coral reefs, aware of me and not fearful in the slightest. I hovered around with them for so long that I ended up with the worst sunburn I've had in years. It was worth it!

Galleon Beach also boasts two shipwrecks in relatively shallow waters, one hours. Take your own food and drink since the resort only serves its own guests and there truly is nothing but lush green hills and white beaches all around.

FFRYES BEACH We liked Ffryes beach with its rocky outcrop and white sandy beaches on both sides. Livelier than my two previous suggestions with non-motorised watersports available and the lovely Dennis restaurant. I recommend the succulent goat curry or fresh lobster.

small-ish steel fishing boat and a much older wooden wreck. The clear, calm waters are good for snorkelling.

HERMITAGE BAY Hermitage Bay is well named; a dirt-track tumble took us to a hidden beach with nothing for miles around except for a quiet, understated resort nestled away. You'll find a small reef, not two metres into the azure water, teeming with small tropical fish. The beach is covered with shells and coral of all sizes that will keep both children and adults amused for

SHIRLEY HEIGHTS; VIEWS, VIEWS, VIEWS Arguably the best Instagram spot on the island with spectacular views over English Harbour. Famous also for its Sunday parties under the setting sun with rum flowing, BBQs going and steel drums playing late into the night. The partying had not yet restarted when we visited but by all accounts, well worth it. Hopefully, the merriment will be back once all restrictions have been lifted.

VISIT THE RAINFOREST As mentioned, Antigua has a relatively dry climate and you might miss the rainforest altogether if you don't make a point of spending time there. It is part of the Wallings nature reserve and to be found in the south of the island. Book a guided tour with local guides through Hiking Tours or zipline through the beautiful, lush forest.

SPEND A DAY AT ENGLISH HARBOUR AND NELSON'S DOCKYARD English Harbour provided a huge military advantage to Britain and was instrumental in its naval success in the Caribbean. Nelson's Dockyard is a working Georgian dockyard that was awarded World Heritage Site status by UNESCO in 2016. The Dockyard Museum, located in the former Admiral’s House, presents visitors with exhibits regarding the dockyard’s history and current archaeological research on the island. The area also offers shops, art galleries and restaurants - from smart to shanty - to peruse for a day.

CHARTER A CATAMARAN AND EXPLORE DESERTED ISLANDS You'll find a number of smaller islands in the waters of Antigua. Some might have a resort or a house or two while others are entirely uninhabited. Prickly Pear Islet and Great Bird Island are perfect for your modern day Robinson Crusoe fantasies!

TRY THE WORLD'S BEST PINEAPPLE You absolutely MUST try the famous Antigua Black Pineapple while there. It is a sweeter variety with golden fruit and lower acidity than most other pineapples. I never knew a pineapple could taste that good!

In all honesty, I left Antigua feeling as if our experience was a bit half-baked. Not because we failed to immerse ourselves but rather because we seemed to have visited at a time when the island was still emerging from, what had clearly been, a very challenging 18 months. Many facilities were still closed or run down and local people were subdued, sometimes seeming a tiny bit shell-shocked. It was my first time in Antigua so it's impossible to compare to previous visits but that was the feeling I had. It didn't help that our resort's beach was blighted by sargassum seaweed either, but, did I have a good time on an island in the Caribbean sun? Of course I did.