ASK AN EXPERT: Laura K Jewitt

What do I need to know about gold jewellery?

1. Please explain the different types of karat gold used in jewellery.

Karat is a measurement of the ratio of the purity of “fine” .999 gold to other metal alloys and it is based on a 24-part ratio system.

Certifying its standard, your jewellery may be stamped “kt”, “K”, or as a percentage of millesimal fineness such as “750” for 18kt, “585” for 14kt, or “417” for 10kt, and the makers trademark or hallmarks. For example, with fine gold:

24 kt = 24 parts gold 22 kt = 22 parts gold + 2 parts alloy 18 kt = 18 parts gold + 6 parts alloy

14 kt = 14 parts gold +10 parts alloy 10 kt = 10 parts gold +14 parts alloy 9 kt = 9 parts gold + 15 parts alloy

2. What makes gold jewellery white or rose in colour?

Naturally yellow, gold can be alloyed to alter the colour. Essentially, rose gold is created with a copper alloy, white gold with nickel or palladium, and green gold with a silver mixture.

3. Why am I allergic to some white gold but not to yellow gold?

White gold using a zinc or nickel-based alloy (also used in costume jewellery) may cause an allergic reaction, unlike the inert palladium alloy, and rhodium plating is also helpful when used as a barrier. Alloy mix in yellow karat gold and sterling silver are usually not problematic. Very rarely are there reactions to fine gold and silver. Platinum and palladium are hypoallergenic.

4. Can I use my old gold jewellery, diamonds and gemstones to recreate new jewellery?Yes usually. We can also supply new diamonds and gemstones to match and add to yours.

Yellow gold with little to no impurities can be reworked beautifully into a new signature piece. White gold when remelted can create porosity and cracking, and rose gold when remelted can become brittle, so it is not recommended. Karat gold cannot be re-alloyed to standard to transform it into another colour without refining it. However, unusable gold can be applied as credit towards a new piece.

We invite you for a complimentary assessment and design consultation.

BEFORE

AFTER New sapphire ring repurposing the client’s diamonds with the yellow gold as an inside ring sleeve.

Jewellery design that transforms your story into a custom signature piece crafted from the comfortable luxury of our Point Grey studio. Also offering a beautiful array of ready-to-wear jewellery, visit our studio boutique!

4485 W. 10th Ave, Vancouver BC V6R 2H8

604.282.7775

info@laurakjewitt.com

www.laurakjewitt.com