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Great Scotts
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WORDS DENISE IRVINE | IMAGES ASHLEE DECAIRES
Serety McCudden and Ian Thomson felt the weight of Hamilton hospitality history when they bought Scotts Epicurean five years ago.
They’d looked at a few other city cafes listed for sale at that time, and Scotts felt right. They liked the character, the quietly efficient service and the great coffee and food. Says Ian: “It had a unique feel.” It surely did. Scotts Epicurean, in Victoria Street’s south-end, was a legend in its own well-reviewed lunchtime, opened in 2000 by siblings Mandy and Jason Scott, and the winner of countless ‘best cafe’ awards. Even the premises exude singular charm. Built in 1902 for Hamilton jeweller Henry Herbert Howden, the well-preserved interior has pressed tin ceilings and other handsome heritage features. By the time husband-and-wife team Serety and Ian bought the business in 2016, Mandy Scott had moved on and it was owned by Jason Scott, Barend Beukes and Dave Tourelle. (Jason and Barend relocated to Whangamata to start Port Road Project Eatery). Serety and Ian were fresh to hospitality, shifting from corporate careers to follow a long-held goal of Serety’s to own a cafe. She loves good food and coffee, and her family has always been strong in manaakitanga (hospitality), adept at welcoming and feeding large numbers of guests. Serety did her schooling and university studies in Hamilton and then lived overseas for many years. She met Ian in London, and in 2013 they settled back in New Zealand with their four children. As the new owners of Scotts, they looked to continue the charm and professional reputation of a much-loved local business. They took things gently. Says Serety: “When we bought it, it had been going for sixteen years. So why would we change what has already been successful? We were never going to change things for the sake of it. There is a sense of ownership among Scotts customers; we didn’t want people to say, ‘what’s happened to my cafe?’” They stuck to the well-honed script of offering table service, a seasonal menu, cabinet food, not taking bookings and—like those before them—they haven’t been tempted to open at night apart from special functions. Adds Serety: “And we don’t do eggs bene because everyone else does it.” There was a lot to learn, though. Serety and Ian ensured they had experienced staff in the kitchen, on the coffee machine, and out front. They kept the popular Allpress coffee brand, and a number of strong menu favourites such as the “famous and addictive” Aglio Olio pasta, Pytti Panna (Swedish-style bubble and squeak), and Rarakor (potato pancake) with house-cured salmon gravlax. This culinary trio retains its place on a recently revamped all-day menu that is stylish and flavoursome. The Aglio Olio—spaghetti swooshed through with dried chillis, garlic, lots of fresh parsley, grated parmesan and olive oil—was just under $10 when Scotts first opened. More than two decades later it’s had a modest price rise to $15, still damn good value, and it warms the soul on a cold winter’s day. Serety says the kitchen team works with quality ingredients, dishes are cooked from scratch, and items such as pesto, relish and chilli paste are made in-house. As is all the sweet and savoury cabinet food. “It’s what we do.” Serety is happily the face of the business at front of house, backed by staffer Donna Ferguson, formerly the cafe’s baker. Brenton Hahn is head chef, with Hari Singh as sous chef. Ian is largely off-stage, running systems and administration. Their four children have also taken pride in working shifts at Scotts during school and university holidays. Serety and Ian praise their “excellent team” who they say understand and demonstrate Scotts’ values and take pride in the cafe. “We have a low staff turnover and a great team spirit.” They also like the notion of their business supporting its wider community; they sponsor junior cricket and football teams, and offer wall space for Wintec arts students to display paintings. Exhibitions are curated by Liam Bourton, an ex- Wintec art student and cafe staff member. Ian says customers from a long time back could still walk into Scotts and recognise it from their earlier memories. They may have tweaked and changed the menu and done some decorating and refurbishment but—always, always—with a light touch. “Subtle changes,” he says. Remaining faithful to the cafe’s character and to customer expectations. “The lovely thing for us,” says Serety, “is that we have a regular client base, really loyal customers. There is a strong sense of community here. We are very fortunate; we get a lot of pleasure from this.” Such sentiments have underpinned Scotts since opening day.
