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Letter from the Editor Travel has always had a glimmer of
As a company in the travel industry,
a little of what you can look forward
unpredictability. For example, you can
we too have grown and changed to
to in this issue: get a bird's eye view
never be 100% certain that your car
meet these demands. In August of
of otherwise familiar landscapes in
won’t break down on a road trip in
this year, we launched the Nomad
our "Top Shots" on page 12. On page
rural Kenya. But isn't this all a part of
Travel Club: a platform that makes
26 discover the results of this year's
the adventure? Change and uncertainty
domestic aspirational travel a reality
Nomad Readers' Choice Awards. Lastly,
can be uncomfortable, yet, it is also a
by providing the best resident rates.
on page 40, learn about four young
catalyst for growth.
This year we also held the inaugural
men raising money for rangers through
Nomad Readers' Choice Awards where
an epic cross-country tuk-tuk trip.
As the travel industry went through
you, Nomad readers and followers,
multiple changes this year, so did
nominated and voted for your favourite
individuals looking to travel. In a
properties in Kenya. Last but certainly
recent press address, Allan Kivuka,
not least, we shifted our magazine from
the CEO of Kenya Airways noted,
monthly to quarterly issues creating
“domestic flights are expected to record
rich print content supported by our
a 95 percent growth by December
consistent digital content.
Wherever your journey takes you this Signature goes here: holiday season, we hope it is full of welcomed surprises and adventure.
this year compared to the same period last year.” Domestic travel,
This year came with its challenges but
particularly to private rental homes
we hope to continue to be champions
Soni Adriance
has provided an escape from congested
for local travel and help you discover
Editor
city life and constant mask-wearing.
the best of what is out there. Here is
@soni.side.up
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Contents
26. Nomad 2021 Readers' Choice Awards We announce the finalists of the Readers’ Choice Awards as voted by you!
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Cover Photo
SH O T
8. News and Events What every Nomad needs to know
Cottar's Bush Villa Michal & Claudia Lastowski @partimetravelers
12. Top Shots Featuring photographers with a birds eye view of Kenya
Contents Photo
21. Embracing the Wild
by Brian Siambi @brian.siambi
Nomad visits Cottar’s 1920s Camp and experiences world-renowned luxury
40. The Tale of Two Tuk-Tuks An interview with four friends on a mission for rangers from Nairobi to Capetown
46. What I Pack Find out what Hali Odour, content creator and designer, packs in her bag en route to Lamu
NOMAD Issue 34 · December 2021 · PUBLISHED BY PURPLE ELEPHANT VENTURES, ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. DIRECTORS Ben Peterson, Jan Van der Does de Willebois, Mikul Shah. CEO Mark Willms. PURPLE ELEPHANT VENTURES Marco Saio, Anthony van Ryswyck, Eva Kigo, Evans Gatoye, Lizzie Wright. EDITOR Soni Adriance DESIGN Karan Khalsa HEAD OF SALES Vanessa Wanjiku. DIRECTOR OF NTC Jodi York BOOKINGS MANAGER Carol Soi OPERATIONS Caroline Rubiro. SALES ENQUIRIES editor@nomad.africa NomadAfricaTravel
@NomadAfricaTravel
@NomadAfrica_
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Park Fee Increase Kenya Wildlife Service has announced that park fees will increase by 300% in the new year. As of January 2022, the fees that were supposed to be in place from July 1st 2021 but suspended after public outcry during COVID will go into effect. Nairobi National Park with be Ksh 1,500 in the peak season, up from Ksh 500 while Nakuru and Amboseli Parks will be Ksh 1,500 up from Ksh 1,000.
Wild Aircrafts Kenya Airways in conjunction with the Kenya Tourism Board (KTB) has branded two aircrafts with images of the last remaining white rhinos, elephant tuskers, and lions in a move aimed at increasing Kenya's visibility as a travel destination locally and internationally.
Celebrating 75 Years Nairobi National Park will celebrate its 75th anniversary
several initiatives to mark this event including free entry
on December 16th 2021. The celebrations will be held at
for senior citizens accompanied by a companion of their
Kisembe Glade inside the National Park. There will be
choice and their vehicle and driver for 30 days.
NEWS
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Nomad Christmas Fair The annual raffle/donation for the Diani Turtle watch is back! For the 13th year running, on Saturday December 11th and Sunday December 12th at The Sands at Nomad the Nomad Christmas Fair will be hosted and all proceeds will go towards Diani Turtle watch.
The New Year Revival Beneath The Baobabs is back with a two night festival on two stages. There are a limited number of tickets sold for the electronic and alternative music festival fuelled by Frontier Audio’s Funktion One Sound Systems and each ticket comes with the ability to take a rapid antigen test at the gate. Gate opens December 30th until January 1st 2022.
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Gurcharan Roopra @gurcharan gurcharanroopra.com Mystical Swirls The Magadi lakes are by far my favorite place to shoot aerial photography. The salt content and algae in the water create these beautiful lines in the dry season. As the wind picks up, the whole atmosphere changes, the crazy high temperatures become more bare-able, the colours mix, the helicopter gets thrown around to make this adrenaline charged. The dark water contrast with beautiful pink Flamingo’s and these gorgeous lines, make some of the most beautiful abstract photos. Today the lines are yellow, who knows that the next season will bring.
Nikon Z7II Z Series 70-200mm f2.8 1/1000th sec shutter, ISO 200, f5, 70mm
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Osse Greca Sinare @ossegrecasinare youtube.com/ossegrecasinare Tropical Wanderlust This was one of those shots that were totally unexpected and unplanned. A tour company by the name @alyzeeagetaways was giving me a tour of Seychelles and they took me up this beautiful road to go see a view point of Seychelles from high in the mountains. As we were heading up this scene just popped out of nowhere. I knew I had to capture it but the only way I would’ve been able to showcase it properly was with a drone. Luckily I had one with me and because of the drone I was able show emphasis on how small I was in this jungle like scene. Definitely one of my favourite captures to date. Mavic Pro 2 1/320th sec shutter f2.8, 10.26mm
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Brian Siambi @brian.siambi Gone Fishing I captured this shot early morning at Lake Oloiden just outside Mundui House. I noticed these two fishermen sailing towards me to pull out their fishing nets that had stayed the night. We chatted a bit and I took up the drone to position it as they pulled out their nets and captured this shot. DJI Mavic Air 1/115th sec shutter f2.8, 100 ISO
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Embracing the Wild Nomad Visits Cottar’s 1920s Camp By Mark Willms
BOOK THIS CAMP For more information about this camp or to book your stay email bookings@nomad.africa or visit our website nomadafrica.travel
“Shhhh … everyone be quiet ... “ “The lion is getting ready to attack the zebra,” whispered Mako, our Maasai driver peering through his binoculars at the nearby zebra. The lioness Mako was referring to was roughly 20 metres away from the zebra, creeping closer and closer - about to catch her morning breakfast. Within seconds of Mako alerting us to the imminent action, the lioness took off, sprinting towards the zebra in a chase, eventually stretching out with one paw onto the backside of the zebra nearly taking it down. The zebra evaded the attack, eventually leaving the lion in its dust. “How did she miss it,” we all gasped from the Land Cruiser.
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It seemed t hat every night I was transported to a new sundowner experience, wit h deliciously prepared cocktails, roaring fires, spectacular sunsets, wit h animals in t he distance – in one case about twenty giraffes passing by."
The lion collapsed, tired of the chase, watching on in disappointment as the zebra was freed, scarred, and startled from its near death experience. This was the f irst day on my trip to Maasai Mara, and it only got better! I was staying at the world-renowned Cottar’s 1920s Camp, after a longawaited absence from the Mara. I was overdue for some time in the bush, sleeping under canvas, experiencing epic sunsets, and viewing amazing wildlife. There is no place in the world like the Mara, and this trip only reaff irmed my high expectations, building on past trips. I had heard great reviews about Cottar’s 1920s Camp. It is known as one of the best tented safari camps in Kenya, and truly one of the best in the world. The Cottar Family has been in the safari business since 1919, and opened Cottar’s 1920s Camp in the Mara in 1998. The properties continue
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to be run by the Cottar family today. Staying at the campground gives you a true feeling of how deep the roots are for this long-standing connection to the safari industry. Grounded, and always responsive to current demands for the ultimate safari experience. Breakfast Under the Acacia and Cascading Waterfall at Dawn When visiting Cottar’s 1920s Camp, I learned that there are two essential times to experience it in all its glory – sunrise and sunset. There is no place on earth I’ve ever been more excited to jump out of bed at 4:30AM. There is something magical about catching the morning sunrise in the Mara, starting the day with tea outside your canvas tent, and then heading on a game drive, hoping to see big cats on the move. Every morning our Cottar’s game drive was
completed with breakfast under an acacia tree with a spectacular view -where I decompressed and reminisced about the morning experience. One morning we had a private breakfast on the sand of the Sand River, with cascading rocks and a waterfall in the distance. The setting was out of a movie! After the meal, I decided it was time for a dip in the riverbed without really thinking about what was down below. “Alright I’m going in!” I didn’t hesitate to jump right in but after 10 minutes, my mind started to wander. “What could be in here? A baby croc? A water snake? Yup, something just touched my foot… I’m out”. Putting my water fears aside, the morning was truly a once in a lifetime experience. Swimming at a waterfall in the Mara. Come on, you can’t top that.
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Evenings with Giraffes, Gin & Tonics, and a Traditional Canvas Bath The evenings and sundowner experiences at Cottar’s were spectacular, and every night topped the next! It seemed that every night I was transported to a new sundowner experience, with deliciously prepared cocktails, roaring f ires, spectacular sunsets, with animals in the distance – in one case about twenty giraffes passing by. Many of the evenings were centered around great conversation and company along with the Maasai guides and staff. I truly think this is what separates Cottar’s 1920s Camp from the rest, as there was minimal divide between guests and staff. I
got to know each and every staff member, as they joined us in many of my experiences at the camp: laughing, learning, and sharing stories with each other about our differing backgrounds and upbringings. One of these special experiences was on a walking safari led by Letilet and Moses, our bushwalking escorts. Moses is a man with a fascinating life story: he was previously a poacher turned tracker. Moses took us on a long trek to our sundowner location, pointing out plants, birds, and animals along the way. Once we arrived at the special spot, he showed us how to shoot a bow and arrow at a target, which led to some f ierce competition with the group. Finally, you can’t experience Cottar’s
1920s Camp without partaking in the famous outdoor traditional canvas bath that is prepared on the veranda outside your luxurious tent. This bath in the wild, full of bubbles, and a little champagne to round out the experience is truly once in a lifetime. I put on my favourite relaxing playlist, sat in the canvas bath while looking out on the vast grasslands of one of the most picturesque places imaginable. I reflected on the amazing experience I had on this trip, as the sun began to set over the Maasai Mara. Cottar’s 1920s Camp made this dream possible. I will remember it forever.
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Finalists The Nomad Readers’s Choice Awards celebrates the best and brightest properties in Kenya. As Nomad looks towards the end of 2021, we reflect on this past year to celebrate the resilience, beauty, and uniqueness of particular Kenyan properties that stood out from the rest. In launching our inaugural awards, we asked our Nomad followers and readers to nominate and vote for their favourite properties in multiple categories. The following pages represent these properties voted by you!
Best Holiday Homes on the Kenyan Coast
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Cardamom Vipingo, Kenya
nomadafrica.travel/en/cardamom-house
Sirai Beach Kilifi, Kenya
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Alfajiri
Ukunda, Kenya
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Best Holiday Homes in the Kenyan Bush
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2
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Cottar’s Bush Villa
Ololaimutiek Village, Kenya nomadafrica.travel/en/cottars-bush-villa
Olerai
Naivasha, Kenya
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Mukima House Nanyuki, Kenya
nomadafrica.travel/en/mukima-house
Best Hotels on the Kenyan Coast
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The Sands at Nomad
2
Hemingways Watamu
Diani, Kenya
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Watamu, Kenya
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Msambweni Beach Msambweni, Kenya
nomadafrica.travel/en/msambweni-beach-house
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Best Safari Camps in the Kenyan Bush
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In Nomad Magazine’s December 2021 issue there was an incorrect photograph used for this Category Finalist "Finch Hattons Luxury Camp." The photograph used was mistakenly of Safari Collection’s “Giraffe Manor.” This is now the correct photograph. We sincerely apologize to both parties for this unintentional error.
Finch Hattons
Tsavo, Kenya
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Cottar’s 1920
Ololaimutiek Village, Kenya nomadafrica.travel/en/cottars-1920s-safari-camp
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Sirikoi
Lewa Wildlife Conservancy, Kenya
Most Environmentally Sustainable Properties in Kenya
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Emboo River
Maasai Mara, Kenya nomadafrica.travel/en/emboo-river-camp
Turtle Bay Watamu Watamu, Kenya
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Borana Lodge
Borana Conservancy, Kenya
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Best Swimming Pools in Kenya
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Rhino River
Meru National Park, Kenya
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Beach House Lamu, Kenya
nomadafrica.travel/en/beach-house
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The Retreat (Giraffe Manor) Nairobi, Kenya
Best Sundowner Experiences in Kenya
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Lichthaus
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Tusitiri Dhow
Watamu, Kenya
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Lamu, Kenya
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Saruni Samburu Samburu, Kenya
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Most Unique Properties in Kenya
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Watamu Treehouse
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Rock and Sea Watamu
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Watamu, Kenya
Watamu, Kenya
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Sieku Glamping Timau, Kenya
Most Instagrammable Properties in Kenya
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Giraffe Manor Nairobi, Kenya
Emboo River
Maasai Mara, Kenya nomadafrica.travel/en/emboo-river-camp
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Forodhani Lamu, Kenya
nomadafrica.travel/en/forodhani-house
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Hottest New Properties in Kenya (last 3 years, 2019 - 2021)
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Eco Farmhouse/Treehouse Makuyu, Kenya
nomadafrica.travel/en/eco-farmhouse
Cardamom Vipingo, Kenya
nomadafrica.travel/en/cardamom-house
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The Hildana Lodge Taita, Kenya
Thank you to our loyal and trusted readers for selecting these finalists. We look forward to continuing to celebrate local travel in future awards. 37
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The Ultimate Beachfront Villa BOOK THIS HOME For more information about this home or to book your stay email bookings@nomad.africa or visit our website nomadafrica.travel
Searenity Beach Villa is a family run business, evident in the friendly and hospitable services along with the stylish homey touches to the live-in spaces; it always will feel like your home away from home. At Searenity Beach Villa, the staff remember your name, your coffee order and how you like your eggs, and they strive to make your stay feel personalized and curated for you.
USB charging points, coffee machines, safe locks, smart tvs, mini-fridges and much more. Two suites have oceanfacing jacuzzis where you can be served oysters and champagne. At Searenity, they take in-room dining to the next level. You can enjoy your meal from the private sunrise and sundowner terrace, which offers a 360-degree panorama views of the new beach-side sunken f ire pit.
With renovations only completed in 2020, this newly opened beachfront property is bright, freshly modern, and clean. A luxury boutique villa with modern amenities, it boasts seven spacious sea view double rooms with private patios that are available for rent on an individual basis or the entire villa can be rented for additional privacy and seclusion. The modern, light-f illed, airy rooms are well equipped with all the necessary amenities: fast WiFi, Air conditioning,
Meals at the Anchor Bar and Restaurant are well-curated and flavourful dishes that reflect the melting pot that is Kenya. Swahili, Continental, Indian, and Italian influences are seamlessly combined together with the freshest seafood that is received from local f ishermen and locally sourced produce. Items on the menu range from grilled meat specialties to lobster mac n cheese, burgers, pizzas and much more. They also provide a wide variety of
vegetarian options with provisions for gluten free and vegan guests. No matter what you choose to order, be sure to have a look at the dessert menu, which has new and exciting takes on favourite classics. There is also an array of gelatos and sorbets that are churned in-house with the freshest ingredients. As a beachfront property, you can spend your days lounging on the private beach with sunbeds, cosy canopy nests and a snack menu to keep you satisf ied. Or, you can experience a seaside movie night at the Searenity Cinema with any movie of your choice with the ocean breeze on your face and sounds of the waves crashing next to you. Whether looking for a romantic getaway for two or a big friends and family trip to the beach, Searenity Beach Villa has the experience for you.
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The Tale of Two Tuk-Tuks This is the tale of four friends who turned two tuktuks and a passion for adventure travel into a noble cause raising money for rangers and conservancies. Ivo, Jasper, Robbie and Josh, found themselves in Kenya during the onset of the COVID 19 pandemic. Josh had been stranded on an island in Indonesia in the beginning of the pandemic where he began filming
What is Tuk South? Tuk South is a tuk-tuk wielding adventure travel video production crew centred on raising money and exposure for wildlife rangers in Africa. Aside from documenting the thrills and spills of our journey on our social media channels, we focus on videos promoting the 4Cs of sustainability in this field (Conservation, Culture, Community and Commerce). We are using film making, both in the traditional sense and for social media to keep ourselves funded on the road and allow us to continue our For Rangers mission. We have negotiated a couple of content production related deals and will be collecting stories and footage on some of the grass roots, sustainability,
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and editing. Later, when he joined his three friends in Kenya, they began to film the effects of the pandemic on conservancies and rangers. In May 2021 they turned their passion into a cause to raise awareness and funds for the charity For Rangers. We caught up with the men of Tuk South as they began their six month journey from Nairobi to Capetown.
community and conservation initiatives we find en route. We also intend on continuing our filming on the impacts of the coronavirus pandemic on the wild-spaces of Africa and the people and cultures, who rely on, and protect these spaces. With this footage, collected from conservancies and reserves we visit on the way down we aim to create a small documentary on the subject. Why did you choose a charity to support rangers? The For Rangers charity is a fantastic organisation that aligns with many of the beliefs and ethics of the Tuk South crew. For Rangers is a humanitarian charity and a wildlife conservation
organisation. This allows us to support both the wild-spaces we know and love and the communities and cultures that depend on these spaces. Furthermore, when you support For Rangers, you are not only offering protection for a single “poster child species” such as a rhino or an elephant, instead you are supporting ecosystem protection as a whole. This therefore offers much needed support and safety to the more elusive and less charismatic species that inhabit these habitats. Support the people charged with protecting these wild-spaces and you end up safeguarding the whole ecosystem. What were you doing for work before starting Tuk South?
FEAT U R E
Prior to the pandemic, Jasper and Josh were both working in the hospitality industry on a couple of islands in Indonesia while Ivo and Robbie were in their final year at Bristol University. But as you well know, COVID changed everything. Josh started making and editing videos first in Indonesia and then in his hometown of Chester. Jasper returned to a life of sculpting and creating feather works back in Kenya. After graduating from university, Ivo started tutoring for kids who were struggling with school closures and Robbie began work as an apprentice builder. Have you always had a passion for travelling? Particularly adventure travel? We all love to travel and really only work to make enough money to fund our next set of adventures. Between the four of us, we have cruised through every continent bar Antarctica (wonder if we can get our tuk-tuk there?). We all love the adventure side of travel, I mean would we have set off in these tuk-tuks if we didn’t? How far into your journey are you currently? Currently we are in Kimana sanctuary
in southern Kenya. We have a couple of projects to film in and around the Amboseli ecosystem and then we will be crossing into Tanzania. Where are you staying along the way? Mostly wild camping as we are very at home in the bush and our tuk-tuk has all the gear for some serious glamping; a fold out kitchen with a four hob burner, pressurised water for showers, a projector and projector screen for movie nights along with a full solar system. We have however got a few lodges that have offered us free stays in return for us making them videos, so we will have some actual beds over the next half year as well! Do you have a planned/mapped out route or are you going as far as you can daily? We have a generalised route in mind however we have allowed for serious flexibility just in case a cool place, story or project catches our eye and is worth detouring to. Roughly speaking we are going to be passing through: Kenya, Tanzania, Malawi, Zambia, Zimbabwe, Botswana, Namibia and finally South Africa.
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Which country are you most excited to drive through? Namibia will probably be the most challenging country we will drive through and with that comes excitement. Not only will we be battling the Kalahari and Namib deserts at the tail end of summer, but we will have no air-con, no shade and no top speed high enough to allow for wind cooling us down. Despite this heat onslaught and the inevitable sinking of tuk-tuks into endless sandpits, Namibia and her beautiful alien landscapes will be where the tuk-tuks look most out of place and will also be the first time they see the sea! Who’s been the most interesting person you’ve met thus far in your journey? Francis Legei. The head of security and rangers for Biglife in the greater Amboseli ecosystem. A very interesting, experienced and influential ranger who has helped us a lot with our filming. So far he has organised for us to join a mission herding crop raiding elephants back into the Kimana sanctuary and to also film the predator compensation fund Big Life has initiated to prevent revenge killings of large predators that
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have killed community livestock. What do you foresee being the biggest challenge in this journey? Trying to get Princess Buttercup (the tuk-tuk) over various terrain. She really doesn’t like hills, meaning we end up pushing her up most of the steep ones. Mud is most likely going to be a nightmare, especially as we are hitting each country's rainy season perfectly! Elephants, who knows about elephants, but one thing is for sure she definitely can’t make a quick getaway if one does charge her. What’s next for the four of you/Tuk South? If all goes to plan, we want to ship the tuk-tuks across to Argentina and make our way up the Americas to potentially Alaska, and then who knows? Maybe across to Russia? We basically want to continue cruising in tuk-tuks for as long as possible, and see how far we can push our tuk-tuks while continuing to raise money and awareness for wildlife Rangers around the globe. Any words of advice or nuggets of wisdom for adventure travellers out there?
Quit your job, buy a tuk-tuk and pick some ludicrously vague direction… What's the worst that can happen? What’s the best way for people to follow your journey and support your cause? The best way to follow the journey is on @tuksouth on Instagram, TikTok and Facebook. The best way to support our cause is to raise awareness for, and donate to, our For Rangers charity page (links on our website tuksouth.com). The more awareness we can raise for the incredible and often life threatening work that wildlife rangers perform every day the better. As mentioned before, supporting a ranger helps not only the ranger and their family, but the wild-spaces they protect, the communities that rely on them and the health of the ecosystem as a whole. To lift from the For Ranger page, “Every cent goes directly to these men and women, providing them with good quality kit and equipment, improved welfare and better working conditions so that they might better protect the wildlife that cannot protect itself.”
T O A DP V ESRHT OO TR I A L
Leopard Beach Resort Diani Beach
“Hey guys, do you need an extra
Over many years of coming to Diani, it
player?” I shouted to the five young boys
has sometimes been rare to find a truly
playing football on the beach.
boutique-like experience at the large beachside resorts on the Kenyan Coast.
It was a Friday night at dusk in Diani and
In the past, I have found these resorts to
I had just walked the beach, “Yes, please
be somewhat identical and predictable in
join!” one of the boys called back.
look, feel, food, and amenities. Yet, after this latest trip to Leopard Beach Resort
I had just arrived at Diani beach and I
and Spa, it is clear that this is not your
was looking forward to enjoying a unique
typical Kenyan resort.
experience at Leopard Beach Resort and Spa. I had wandered down the secluded
Leopard Beach Resort and Spa truly
beachfront cove and strip that fronts the
exceeded my expectations and proved
exceptional resort. With a backdrop of
to be one of the best and brightest
a purple and pink skyline, this was the
hotels in Diani. Fresh off of upgrade
setting where I happily came across the
renovations of the hotel rooms and
game of football and had a post-match
villas, the lodgings are both elegant and
swim in the ocean – a perfect start to my
inviting, providing a fantastic garden
weekend vacation.
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view literally steps from the ocean. With
cocktail overlooking the Indian Ocean,
differing accommodation options for
right before I luxuriated in the relaxing
every traveller, including suites, villas, or
Uzuri Spa with a massage: the spa
cottages, it’s the perfect venue to bring
offered a comprehensive list of various
the entire family.
treatments.
After exploring the expansive grounds
At night, I was able to enjoy a variety of
of the resort, I was struck by the sheer
dining experiences - from the buffet at
number of awesome dining options,
“Horizon Restaurant” to the Oceanview
lounges, bars, and the pool and sitting
pizza and pasta restaurant. I was
areas. During the day I could relax under
completely surprised on Friday night
a veranda with a book and iced coffee,
when I was escorted to the beach for a
or soak up the sun by the poolside. My
special “Coco Beach” barbecue. With
favourite hangout was definitely “Marcos
a band playing Kenyan songs and Bob
Bar,” a setting that resembled a ship
Marley hits, sand beneath my feet, and
built from pure mahogany. This was the
a starry night sky, it was truly a dinner
location where I enjoyed my afternoon
experience to remember.
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2. Le Spec Sunnies
1. Rika
Two Piece
Lamu Vibes
3. Canon RP
@halioduor Hali Oduor is a content creator based in Nairobi, Kenya as well as the designer behind the Hekaya x Hali collection. She is often spotted all around the country, from the beach to the savannahs; these are a few of the must-haves in her travel bag.
4. A local Sisal Sunhat from the 46
streets of Lamu
sandstormkenya.com
