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CONTENTS
March 2020
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36 42 In this issue 12. TOP SHOTS This month we feature three stunning landscape shots taken across Kenya by photographer Gurcharan Roopra. 20. NEWS Kenya’s only female white giraffe and her calf are killed by poachers, coronavirus hits the travel industry hard, and other updates. 23. WHATS ON Events you should be planning to attend this coming month, from Kilifair to Lewa Safaricom Marathon 2020.
FEATURES 32. A DOLPHIN AFFAIR While staying at Turtle Bay Beach Resort, Faith Kanja heads off on a fruitful bottlenose dolphin watching excursion at Watamu Marine Park. 36. WATAMU WELLNESS WEEKEND A relaxing weekend filled with yoga, sunset cruises at Mida Creek, Thai massages, healthy food and an immersion into nature at the beautiful Watamu Treehouse.
REGULARS
42. SCALING THE SIMIEN MOUNTAINS Maurice Schutgens travelled to the popularly named Roof of Africa, home to the gelada monkeys, to experience life on Ethiopia’s isolated plateau. 48. LAND OF THE SMOKE THAT THUNDERS Following reports on western media that Victoria Falls has dried to a trickle, Wendy Watta books a stay at Thorntree River Lodge and covers 3,000km from Nairobi to Zambia to see if there’s any truth to this. 46. ADVENTURE TRAVEL Rock climbing is a unique sport of equal parts adventure and athleticism, requiring technique, tenacity and courage. James Mixon speaks to Samson Mwangi, a gym manager and part of Kenya’s growing community of climbers.
24. NOTES FROM THE BUSH Living in the wild, one might think that Samantha du Toit’s main concern would be predators, but it’s actually snakes and scorpions. When her eight year old daughter gets stung, what follows is possibly their most challenging night yet in the wild. 26. GLOBETROTTERS Through her BBC video series, The History of Africa, Zeinab Bedawi traversed the continent and interacted with African citizens and savants in history, archaeology and culture, in a bid to uncover Africa’s true history. 28. KENYAN TRAVELER Diana Odero breaks down how she planned a solo trip to everyone’s dream destination, Bali, for her 30th birthday. 40. SPOTLIGHT Formerly owned by Kenya’s first female bush pilot, Heather Stewart, Kilifi’s stylish and high-end Kamili House has the most perfect of locations
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EDITOR’S NOTE
UGALI IS UNIVERSAL
E
verytime I travel outside the country for at least a week, I always come back with hunger akin to that of an African that was locked up abroad in some European jail where they have no idea what ugali is. Or chapati and stew, for that matter. I recently set off on an overland Africa trip from Kenya to Southern Africa and thought I wouldn’t struggle much with the food because surely ugali is universal in Africa, right? Our first stop was Tanzania where they definitely have ugali, and for some reason, that’s when I was least interested in it. By the time we crossed over the Nakonde border into Zambia, however, I had spent enough days sleeping in B&Bs, setting off early every morning and making a pit-stop for whatever food was available sometime in the afternoon; mostly mshikaki, chips and chicken. We stayed at a hotel called Izukanji Lodge and Pleasure Resorts. I had never heard of a “pleasure resort” but had some rough idea what that might be, which turned out not to be the case, thankfully, because we had no idea where else to sleep. Anyway, we sat at the restaurant and were offered menus which I skimmed for something other than fast food. Anything. I would have tucked into boiled pumpkin with relish at that point. Then I saw it,
“inshima”, or as the Swahili call it, “sima”. I have never been so excited to see ugali being sold at a restaurant in my life. By the time we got to Livingstone we had spent enough days on the road eating whatever junk we could find and whenever we could stop, that I just wanted something familiar. On our first evening, we went out to a popular club called Limpo’s where a Congolese band was dancing in the way that only the Congolese can. It was 10:00pm and because there was a curfew, this is the only place in town that was still serving food. At this club, I ordered a plate of ugali and beef stew, washed my hands and ate like I was all alone in that room. In Namibia, we had packed schedules and would come back late; the only place we could get food close to Pioneers Park where we were staying was KFC. Let’s just say that I never want to see chips and fried chicken ever again in my life. One afternoon, I had had enough. I got into a taxi and asked the driver to take me anywhere I could get some pap, so we left the suburbs and drove to Katutura where there was a Kenyatta Market of sorts with various vendors live grilling and selling kapana, aka nyama choma, with kachumbari and pap. I was thankful to be in Africa, because here, ugali is universal.
Wendy Watta ON THE COVER Sunset Paddle Shot by Brian Siambi
@WattaOnTheGo
NOMAD ISSUE 27 · MAR/APRIL 2020· PUBLISHED BY WEBSIMBA LIMITED, ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. MANAGING DIRECTOR MIKUL SHAH EDITOR WENDY WATTA DESIGN BRIAN SIAMBI SALES MANAGER VANESSA WANJIKU DIGITAL FAITH KANJA CONTRIBUTORS FAITH KANJA, MAURICE SCHUTGENS, JAMES MIXON, DIANA ODERO, SAMANTHA DU TOIT, ANTHONY KURIA CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS BRIAN SIAMBI, GURCHARAN ROOPRA, MAURICE SCHUTGENS MARKETING & OPERATIONS DANIEL MUTHIANI, JANE NAITORE SALES ENQUIRIES CALL NOMAD 0711 22 22 22 EMAIL EDITOR@NOMADMAGAZINE.CO
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CONTRIBUTORS
IF YOU COULD GO ANYWHERE WITH YOUR FAMILY THIS EASTER, WHERE WOULD IT BE?
JAMES MIXON Roadtrip, Page 46
DIANA ODERO Kenyan Traveler, Page 28
ANTHONY KURIA Globetrotters, 26
I would (try to) convince them all to trek up Mount Kilimanjaro with me! It’s one of the most iconic vistas in East Africa and you can make it an accessible family affair by using porters and guides, and staying at Alpinestyle huts all the way above the clouds to the breathtaking summit, while sipping hot chocolate between hikes.
I would go glamping with them in Laikipia. It would be great to spend a few days away from the city at a place with no internet access and just be present with those closest to me. Spending time in nature, hiking, swimming, taking in the crisp mountain air, relaxing and bonding with my mum and siblings would make for the perfect Easter holiday.
It would be to London, England, which I visited in August 2019. On weekends, I’d hop on a train from Cambridge to London… so many things to do! Being an Arsenal FC fan, I did a stadium tour of the Emirates and later watched a live match. I also got to visit sites like Buckingham Palace, Trafalgar Square, the London Eye, Big Ben, among others.
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TOP SHOTS
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GURCHARAN ROOPRA Instagram @gurcharan PAINTING The recent heavy rains washed a lot of silt into Lake Magadi, creating these beautiful lines. This is like an abstract painting of lines complete with flamingos flying over the landscape. The series of shots were takem on a helicopter over Lake Magadi
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ZEBRAS Rains had flooded the plains so a herd of zebras avoided the really muddy spots while looking for areas to forage.
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REFLECTIONS Clouds were reflected on the water just as a group of greater flamingos flew above the scene completing the setting.
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Heaven can surely wait... We have paradise on earth!
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NKWICHI MINI Imagine a place so pristine and remote that you feel like you need to pinch yourself to make sure you’re not dreaming. Nkwichi Lodge is built in the heart of a wilderness area. It’s a place, so far from the real world that it is easy to leave your stress behind for a truly unique and relaxing getaway. Whether you choose to unwind on the beautiful white beach, snorkel with the cichlids in the azure blue water or hike with a local guide to get a better understanding of the nature and people; your visit will leave a lasting impression. For the past 20 years, Nkwichi has been dedicated to conserve and develop the nature and the people in the area they call home through a unique approach to sustainable tourism. This has made Nkwichi a gateway to an out-of-the-ordinary experience of authentic African hospitality.
ONE OF KENYA'S LAST BIG 'TUSKER' ELEPHANTS DIES AGED 50 Tim died in Amboseli National Park and according to the Kenya Wildlife Service (KWS), it was due to natural causes. He was one of Kenya’s "tuskers", so-called given tusks that grow so long that they reach the ground. Tim was well-known in the area due to his crop-raiding habits and was even speared thrice in his lifetime until he was collared to monitor and keep him safe. His body will be sent to a taxidermist in Nairobi so that it can go on display, KWS said in a statement. Famous for his majestic tusks, Tim was a popular sighting for tourists who visited Amboseli National Park.
Image courtesy Thorburn Cattermole featured in the July Issue 2019
RHINO CHARGE 2020 The 32nd edition of the Rhino Charge will be taking place on Sunday May 31, 2020. Rhino Charge is an annual off-road 4×4 competition held in Kenya in order to raise funds to support the activities of the Rhino Ark Kenya Charitable Trust, an NGO which works towards the conservation and protection of Kenya’s mountain range ecosystems. Spectator tickets will only be available from the Rhino Charge ticketing portal (www.rhino-charge.org). Follow Rhino Charge pages for developing updates on Ticketing deadlines and Pre-event briefing dates. Exact location to be revealed to registered ticket holders prior to the event. (Venue is usually kept a secret)
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KENYA’S ONLY FEMALE WHITE GIRAFFE AND CALF KILLED BY POACHERS Kenya’s only white giraffe and its calf were killed by poachers at the Ishaqbini Hirola Conservancy in Garissa County. First spotted two years ago, it was described as one of a kind and believed to be the only one in the world. The giraffe had dazzled the local community, scientists and wildlife enthusiasts globally. It had since given birth to two white calves in the last two years. Scientists believed it suffered from a genetic condition called leucism which inhibits skin cells from producing pigment. Unlike albinism, the condition allows other organs like the eyes to have a dark colour. The conservancy’s manager Mohammed Ahmednoor said the deaths were confirmed by rangers and community members. The carcasses were found in a skeletal state suggesting that they could have died a long time ago. The killing of these giraffes is a blow to the tremendous steps taken by the community to conserve rare and unique species, and a wakeup call for continued support to conservation efforts.
IMAGE: HELEN KINUTHIA
REVIEWS
Book Review
GIVEAWAY! It’s really easy to enter our competition to win a Sandstorm Wash bag and Passport Holder, worth Ksh 5,000. All you need to do is tell us where you’re heading with your family this Easter, inspired by this or any of our previous issues.
Author: Cheryl Strayed At twenty-two, Cheryl Strayed thought she had lost everything. In the wake of her mother’s death, her family scattered and her own marriage was soon destroyed. Four years later, with nothing more to lose, she made the most impulsive decision of her life. With no experience or training, driven only by blind will, she would hike more than a thousand miles of the Pacific Crest Trail from the Mojave Desert through California and Oregon to Washington State—and she would do it alone. Told with suspense and style, sparkling with warmth and humor, Wild powerfully captures the terrors and pleasures of one young woman forging ahead against all odds on a journey that maddened, strengthened and ultimately healed her. This bestseller has since been made into a Hollywood movie starring Reese Witherspoon so consider reading the book before watching the film. Buy on www.amazon.com
Send us an email with the subject line “My Easter Break” to editor@nomadmagazine. co by midnight EAT April 5, 2020, to stand a chance to win!
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OPINION
COVID-19 HITS KENYA’S HOSPITALITY INDUSTRY Adam Kiboi shares his thoughts on how coronavirus has affected the tourism and hospitality industry in Kenya, particularly at the coast, and how we can ensure the industry’s continued survival for the coming months amid government lockdown. On March 13th 2020, Kenya’s Minister of Health announced the first diagnosed case of Covid-19 in Kenya. Two days later President Uhuru Keyatta, in a live address, revealed that two more people had been diagnosed after coming into contact with the first person. In the same speech he also set forth a list of restrictions ranging from international travel restrictions to minimising public contact. Small to Medium business owners along the coast, especially those working in the hospitality and service industry have already taken massive hits over the past years. Just a few months ago terrorist attacks in Lamu resulted in revenue losses from international and domestic tourism. For an already strained industry, the Covid-19 pandemic could not have arrived at a worse time for the region which is responsible for 65% of the country’s revenue from tourism. Restrictions on social interaction due to Covid-19 are already having wide ranging economic effects as the situation evolves. County officials in regions along the coast have now restricted access to public beaches and recreation centers. Kenya Airways has also suspended flights to Malindi. Large events such as Khanga Festival are now postponed and Mombasa County ordered the closure of all night clubs and set restrictions on working hours for bars and restaurants. Most proprietors of the latter feel it’s only a matter of days before they too are forced to shut their doors for 30 days. With the exception of more well established businesses such as chain hotels and big name restaurants, most business owners have a financial cushion of mere months. The next few months not only look bleak for proprietors but also for their staff. Workers here now have to live in a reality where job security is not a given as employers look for ways to stay afloat. Their options include letting bills pile up, reducing purchases for stock and trimming staff temporarily or even permanently while they try to figure out how much longer they can remain open. Service industry workers generally live on the edge, from salary to salary, often taking up side jobs to relieve the strain. The harsh reality is that most workers in the service industry just can't afford to be out of work for 30 days, considering that SMEs won’t be able afford paid leave for their staff with no revenue coming in. With the closure of large events, things look bleak for part time bartenders, bouncers, gate staff and clean up crews. For much of the hospitality industry across the country, all hope for the influx of cash from the Easter Holidays are now gone. While the ban on mass gatherings is logical, there are alternative measures that could be implemented. Mitigation of the spread is quite possible through an increase in general public health and frequent sanitisation. Deep cleaning restaurant kitchens and dining areas including items that people come into contact with frequently such as ketchup bottles and salt shakers. Another method is to wipe down surfaces such as tables, reception counters and door knobs with sanitizer, and to impose mandatory hand sanitisation at entrances. Rwanda for example has installed hand washing stations outside banks, restaurants and at all bus stops. We could also finally adhere to capacity limits, something that night clubs have ignored in the past. It would be overly optimistic to assume that these new rules would immediately be in place, especially at informal restaurants and cafes. This is where the government needs to step in with mass education across the country on the need and importance of good hygiene in public spaces. We need to trust that people working in the service industry don't want to get themselves and by extension their patrons sick. Let’s not allow panic to ruin an important aspect of local and national economies. If you do go out for a drink or out for dinner, tip more, that might be the last day your waitress gets paid for a while.
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KILIFAIR 2020 KILIFAIR is an international tourism and industry fair promoting companies in the Kilimanjaro region, and this year’s edition takes place on June 5th - 7th in Arusha. About 180 exhibitors, including tourism organisations, tour operators, owners of hotels and lodges as well as equipment suppliers involved in the tourism industry present their products and services to an audience of more than 3,000 trade visitors and the public. To exhibit or register as a hosted buyer, please visit www.kilifair-tanzania.com
LEWA SAFARI MARATHON 2020 Tusk & Lewa’s Safari Marathon and Half Marathon allow participants from all over the globe to compete in an internationally acclaimed event whilst running through one of Africa’s most breathtaking wildlife conservancies. Although regarded as one of the toughest marathons in the world, runners of all abilities take part — from walkers and amateurs to elite runners like Eliud Kipchoge, the reigning Kenyan Olympic Gold Medallist. As a result, this annual Tusk fundraising event has grown to become one of the country’s major sporting events and is regarded by Runner’s World as one of the world’s top ten “must do” marathons. Pre-register for this year’s June 27th event on www.lewasafarimarathon.com
SERENA HOTELS SET TO OPEN IN GOMA Hospitality company Serena Hotels & Resorts is set to expand to the Democratic Republic of Congo with the opening of a new property in Goma on the shores of Lake Kivu in the second quarter of this year. Diverse and stunning landscapes, exhilarating natural beauty, tantalising local cuisine and rich history and culture makes the DRC among Africa’s must-visit countries. Said to have up to 109 rooms, amenities here will include an olympic-sized swimming pool, meeting and wedding facilities, two restaurants, one lounge and an onsite spa. www.serenahotels.com
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NOTES FROM THE BUSH
THE SCORPION
STING
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Living in the wild, one might think that Samantha du Toit’s main concern would be predators, but it’s actually snakes and scorpions. When her eight year old daughter gets stung by a large scorpion, what follows is possibly the family’s most challenging night yet in the wild.
eople often ask whether I am afraid for my children’s safety when living among wild animals such as lions, leopards and elephants. My reply is no, not from those large animals who, while they live all around us, do not directly share the same living space. My main concern, I explain, is snakes and scorpions. While we rarely see snakes themselves, we see their tracks across our paths daily, and scorpions can be found any time you look at their favourite places at night. However, I also explain that it would be a rare occurrence to get so close to these animals that any harm is done. The children know not to pick up wild creatures and to wear fully covered shoes in the evenings. Accidents however do happen and a few days ago our eight-year-old daughter was stung by a large scorpion on her leg through no fault of her own. It was dark but she somehow knew what had happened and immediately ran to us for cool water. Then started possibly the most challenging night of our lives yet in the wild and as parents. Having been stung a few years ago myself, I knew the pain that she was about to endure and therefore did all I could to
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prepare her. We administered painkillers, more as a placebo than anything else since they are not known to be effective against scorpion venom, made her comfortable in the tent, told her stories and applied ice to the sting site. We packed a bag just in case we started to see unwanted signs of the toxins affecting her neurological functions, at which point we would have rushed her to the Magadi Hospital. We made the difficult decision to remain in the comfort of our tent and not rush across the dark and bumpy roads to the hospital unless absolutely necessary, feeling that this might cause more stress and panic. The ice worked to some extent, allowing her to get some respite from the pain occasionally, but when it returned it was hard to bear. Throughout the night we distracted her with various things. We watched little spiders making their way across the roof of the tent with funny shadows following them cast from the light of the bedside lamp. We watched a toad who had somehow made its way into our bathroom hop around. We listened to the baboons’ warning calls, and hyenas whooping in the distance. We watched the moon make its way across the sky and waited for the sun to come up. She
held on to the fact that surely by morning her ordeal would be over. By dawn, many long hours after the sting, the pain was indeed easing but exhaustion and intense discomfort remained. As her family and for our Maasai neighbours and friends, the relief was tangible. Unknown to me, many of the Maasai colleagues at camp had not slept either out of concern and the night watchman had sat all night quietly near our tent waiting to be of help. Many had similar stories of scorpion stings and were very worried about how a little girl would endure the pain so were greatly relieved to see her up and about. It is a strange feeling when one of your biggest fears has come true and oddly comforting to have gone through it and come out the other side safely. And to know that despite the ordeal, our love for living among these wild critters remains as strong as ever. Samantha du Toit is a wildlife conservationist, working with SORALO, a Maasai land trust. She lives with her husband, Johann, and their two children at Shompole Wilderness, a tented camp in the Shompole Conservancy.
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UNCOVERING
AFRICA’S TRUE HISTORY
Born in Khartoum, North Sudan and raised in the United Kingdom (UK), renowned journalist, Zeinab Badawi, decided it was time Africa’s rich and culturally significant history was narrated by the native inhabitants of the vast continent. Through her BBC video series, The History of Africa, she traversed the continent and interacted with African citizens and savants - in history, archaeology and culture. Their stories revealed a graphic picture of their continent's past and how it has informed and continues to impact their lives today. She talks to Nomad about her journey of discovery. Text: Anthony Kuria
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GLOBETROTTERS
appreciation of the simple but profound aspects of life. What needs to be done so that the history of Africa is told by Africans? I’m still struck by the fact that Africans are not in the driving seat when it comes to owning, controlling and conveying their own narrative globally, and it leaves a vacuum for that space to be filled by others. I always felt there was a need for global audiences to have African stories contextualized for them by the people who know and understand the continent and can offer a full picture of what’s happening here. That’s why the History of Africa is so important; it’s African history as told by Africans, and I encourage people to watch the last five episodes on BBC World News every weekend from 4th April.
The History of Africa series is an in-depth look at the continent's past and untold stories. How many countries did you visit and what were the logistics involved? I visited around 33 countries to film this series over a period of about six years, not only staying in capital cities but also travelling off the beaten track. The History of Africa isn't just a series on the history of the 54 individual countries of Africa, but one that goes back so far in time, to before even most of the countries that exist today came into being. Logistically, it was a punishing travel schedule but because I worked with local crews in each location, it was actually a lot smoother than it would have been if I’d flown a crew in from London or Johannesburg. Each local crew knew their country’s major sites, locations and terrain extremely well and their input was invaluable to the making of the series. You left for the UK aged two from Sudan. What inspired you to come back to document the untold history of the African continent through the series? Sudan is a country with a long and ancient history. As a regular visitor there, I’ve seen the pyramids and other historic sites. I was very struck by the fact that few people, including my own family, were really aware of the nuts and bolts of Sudan’s ancient history. This was something that niggled in my mind for a very long time and I resolved to do something about it. Many years later, by chance, I was sitting in the office of the Deputy-Director General of UNESCO, Getachew Engida, who had in his bookcase UNESCO's General History of Africa, which is Africa’s history told by Africans
themselves. We discussed what a great idea it would be to bring this concept to television, and the rest is history. You left Sudan before it was separated into two independent states. Did you feel any connection when you went back? I was born in the north of Sudan - in Khartoum - and my family is from that part of the country. I’ve remained very close to my roots. I would travel to Sudan often, so I’ve never felt any disconnect. I do still visit as I think it’s important to feel connected to my heritage as it’s part of my identity. Of all the African countries you visited, which one was the most memorable for you and why? It would be Sudan because that’s where I was born and it’s where my family is from. Ethiopia and Eritrea were also memorable because my great grandmother was Ethiopian. I’d be really interested to hear from people who watched the series to see what they thought was most memorable. What place do you think has the most unique cultures in Africa? I was most struck by the Hadzabe community of Tanzania. They are a unique group in Africa because they are the last peoples on the continent to live entirely as foragers and hunters of big animals. They live as our ancestors did. I was struck by how in tune with nature their lives were and how little they seemed to crave the trappings of modern life. They were devoid of materialism and their life is lived in a very eco-friendly manner, based on strong community values. I learned a lot from their wisdom and
What country do you plan to go back to again and why? I go back to Sudan relatively often because I have extended family there, but I would rather go to the remaining African countries that I have never visited. I would love to go to Libya - which has a very impressive history - but because of the violence, that isn’t imminent. In which African places did you experience the best hotels, lodges and camping sites? I have to say when I went to Tanzania I stayed at a beautiful safari lodge. My only regret was that I only had one night there. All the hotels I stayed in Morocco were also absolutely stunning, but because the filming schedule was so hectic and because I wanted to visit as much of the continent as I could, we didn’t spend much time exploring the amenities of the hotels. What was the first thing you did every time you arrived in a new country? I’d always hit the ground running. One of the first things I’d do was to meet the crew, as they’d have such brilliant insights and recommendations on how the schedule should be organized to ensure we made the most of our visit to their country. As a frequent traveler, what are some three tips you’ve come to learn firsthand? I have a lot of travel tips, it’s difficult to narrow them down to three. When going to a country on a flight, always make sure you have got enough water to stay hydrated. I get very cold on airplanes so I always take lots of layers and a scarf to protect my throat from the harsh air conditioning. When you arrive at your destination, wear long sleeves in the sun with socks and comfortable shoes that allow your feet to expand in the heat, and a hat and sun protection, regardless of your skin tone. The third tip would be to always be aware of cultural sensitivities.
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CHASING SUNSETS IN
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Diana Odero breaks down how she planned a solo trip to everyone’s dream destination, Bali, for her 30th birthday.
KENYAN TRAVELER
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hree years ago, Bali was just another destination on my bucket-list. Fast-forward to the present and I’m currently sitting at the Hard Rock Café in Ngurah Rai International Airport waiting for my flight back to Nairobi after ten glorious days in Bali. I had always dreamt of visiting Indonesia and to be here alone, for my thirtieth birthday, was surreal. I started planning my trip in July 2019 and at the time, I had plenty to be nervous about as I did not think that it would be manageable. There was the issue of costs, accommodation and my birthday falling in January, which isn’t exactly everyone’s favourite time to go on a holiday. In fact, I created a rough trip itinerary with a proposed budget and dates and sent this to my friends; after one week, I knew I would be boarding that flight alone. I was however not going to let the reality of not having companions on my dream vacation dampen my enthusiasm. If anything, it allowed me to plan better. Turns out, it was not as costly as I expected. Indonesia offers visa-free travel for Kenyans so that was one less thing to worry about. Upon doing some research, I realized that the major expense would
be the return flights. For accommodation I managed to snag a great deal on booking. com; a beautiful upscale boutique hotel called Visala Suites right in the heart of Bali’s metropolitan city, Seminyak. A ten-day stay only set me back Ksh 30,000, inclusive of breakfast. The airport shuttle to and from the hotel was only Ksh 600 and if I had decided to use Grab (the city’s version of Uber) it would have been significantly cheaper. Bali is known to have a few tsunamis especially between December and January. Luckily for me, the tsunami had died down earlier in January and since I visited towards the end of the month, I only experienced a few showers every other day. The weather generally stayed sublimely warm and
Indonesia offers visa-free travel for Kenyans so that was one less thing to worry about. Upon doing some research, I realized that the major expense would be the return flights.
humid. Plan to travel during the wet season (post tsunami) since the dry period can get dangerously hot and possibly ruin your entire trip. I did not have a detailed itinerary but had a list of some must-see places which included the rice terraces and Monkey Forest Sanctuary in Ubud, Potato Head Beach Club, the Uluwatu Temple and Padang Padang beach. I was a bit anxious about touring the island alone as a young, black woman but the locals were very friendly. Everyone was pleasantly helpful, from the hotel receptionist who put me on to Grab and recommended some of the best restaurants and cafes in Seminyak, to the waitress at Nalu bowls (hands down best place for brunch and smoothie bowls!) who told me the best place to catch the sunset in Uluwatu (Ulu Cliffhouse). There is also the one friend I happened to make there, a fellow Kenyan, who gave me an impromptu tour of Ubud where he has lived since 2018. Though I was traveling solo, I never really felt alone. Travelling between towns, from Seminyak to Ubud then Uluwatu and back took about an hour and I mostly commuted on motorcycle taxis (I found their boda bodas to be much nicer than ours). Roads here, especially outside the bustling Seminyak area are quite narrow and cars tend to not make it too far out. My favourite attractions from the trip were two places – the Uluwatu Temple and Padang Padang Beach. The temple is a stunning piece of architecture perched atop a steep cliff overlooking the Indian Ocean; it is considered one of Bali’s spiritual pillars and is one of the most visited areas on the island. Fair warning though – the temple is surrounded by a forest teeming with bold monkeys who’ll come right up to you. I suggest carrying some bananas to keep them distracted. The view from the top of this temple is simply breathtaking; as a Kenyan, I never realized how stunning the Indian Ocean could be until I saw it from a whole different continent. Bali sunsets are also unmatched. I spent every day trying to catch it from a different area each time and whenever I was lucky to catch it, it was always magical. Coupled with the sound of ocean waves hitting the cliff walls, sundowners and a random sighting of a whale near the shore, I can’t possibly imagine a better way to start a new decade of my life – Bali was a magnificent way to celebrate 30 and possibly the best solo trip I have ever been on. I have now boarded my flight and I’m watching the plane taxi off the runway which stretches into the ocean; a most beautiful way to bid the island goodbye, chasing one last sunset.
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extravaganza
KSH 12,150
(Per Person per night Sharing on Half board basis) Terms & Conditions apply For single, kids & suite rate please contact reservations
10th - 14th April
(minimum booking of 3EXPERIENCE nights) 30 DISCOVER EXPLORE
KSH 11,000
(Per Person per night Sharing on Half board basis) Terms & Conditions apply For single, kids & suite rate please contact reservations
March - April
(book 2 nights get 1 night free)
“Take only memories, leave only footprints” - CHIEF SEATTLE
SILVER PALM SPA & RESORT - KILIFI
T: +254 780 745 837 | +254 707 745 837 E: info@silverpalmkilifi.co.ke W: www.silverpalmkilifi.co.ke NOMAD MAGAZINE 2020 31
WATAMU WELLNESS Weekend PHOTOGRAPHS: BRIAN SIAMBI
Needing a break from Nairobi, Faith Kanja heads off to the coast for a relaxing weekend filled with yoga, sunset cruises at Mida Creek, Thai massages, healthy food and an immersion into nature at the beautiful Watamu Treehouse
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n a world full of endless hustle and bustle, taking time out to recharge and rejuvenate is critical. An escape from the city’s noise and the everyday rigorous uptight schedules is always welcome. After all, rest is key for both the body and mind‌ and my recent trip to Watamu Treehouse was the perfect antidote.
Watamu Treehouse is a family-owned boutique hotel and retreat center nestled in the bay area of Watamu. It is perfectly camouflaged amongst indigenous mahogany trees and has direct access to a pristine beach through a natural bush path. Paul Krystall, who runs the beachfront facility explains that no tree was cut during the construction of his lovely home. The house sprouts up from three clearings in the forest left behind by the previous land owner and is perfectly connected to and protected by the surrounding forest, creating the perfect natural aura.
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He explains that a real retreat is built on rejuvenating the body, mind and soul; taking a step back and hitting the reset button. It all comes down to the food we eat, amount of sleep we get, interaction and connection with nature as well as the exercises we engage in.
One is welcomed by the soothing sound of the fountain at the pool and the whistling of the trees that encircle the house creating a cool atmosphere despite the high temperatures at the coast. The different colours and shapes of the recycled glass imprinted on the walls and floor are evident works of Nani Croze, a renowned glass artist and conservationist. The house opens up to nature and tree branches spread freely within the space causing a magical feel all round as butterflies hooping around the fixtures and flowers create a momentary fairy effect.
I am accompanied to my room by Steve, who is in charge of guest experiences. We head over to the adjoining tower where cosy little lounge areas and beautiful stairways dot the space. The “openness” of my room is a pleasant surprise. A huge double bed overlooks the forest as a lagoon lightly pops up from the horizon. Steve explains that Mida Creek sits at the edge of the grove of trees not far from where the house is . I also notice a huge baobab tree peeking majestically among the bushes surrounding the driveway. Each of the eight double rooms has varying designs but all enjoy exquisite sunrises or sunsets while others have spectacular oceanfront views. The yoga studio at the rooftop provides an almost 360 degree view of the surroundings. After a much needed shower in the open bathrooms, I head for a full body massage. The Thai spa music playing in the background draws me away from reality as I float through the calmness of another world altogether. The experience is very refreshing as I start to feel every inch of my body relax. Settling down for lunch at one of the numerous dining areas, I am met with Chipira, the head waiter, who welcomes me to Treehouse with a sumptuous starter - beetroot soup. He explains how it’s made and I add it to my ever unending list of recipes to try out . Paul joins me and we delve into a long interesting chat about Treehouse and its focus on wellness. He explains that a real retreat is built on rejuvenating the body, mind and soul; taking a step back and hitting the reset button. It all comes down to the food we eat, amount of sleep we get, interaction and connection with nature as well as the exercises we engage in. Watamu Treehouse serves fresh food at every meal and their menus cater for all food needs and allergies as they are also additive and sugar free, with a variety of super-foods used in dishes. Baobab jam, Arabuko-Sokoke Forest honey, moringa and mango jam are bought from local community projects. Paul puts an emphasis on the balance between food, exercise and rest while staying at Watamu Treehouse. The exercises vary based on each guest. Paul’s daughter, Aja, who has studied Ayurvedic healing, enlightens me that what works for one person doesn’t necessarily work for the other. Health and wellness is therefore not a straightforward formula, but rather a delicate interplay between activation and relaxation; challenging and
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accepting oneself. Consequently, every retreat they offer is developed to suit the specific needs of each guest. Some yoga retreats for instance emphasize relaxation with gentler forms of asana and walks, massages, lots of sleep and rest while others are geared towards adventure, with power yoga and more intense nature explorations. Others, still, are complete detox programs that incorporate specific juice cleanses, days of silence, safe fasting and yoga for ridding the body of stress. Therefore, creating a bespoke experience for each of their guests is of utmost priority. Some of the activities taken up while at Watamu Treehouse include kayaking and stand up paddle-boarding (SUP) at the mangroves. Being yoga teachers as well, Paul and Aja have also extended their yoga classes to empower not only their guests but also the community around them. Every Tuesday, the staff here have a yoga session. In addition, three other community classes take place at Gede, Dongo Kundu and Crab Shack Dabaso. My final day at Treehouse is wholesome. I start by catching the sunrise at the empty beach before sinking into a session of quiet reflection. No better way to kick off the day than by soaking in the morning light and making my intentions for the day clear. It is magical and I can only wish to experience this surreal tranquility every single morning. This is followed by a yoga session before breakfast. The Dru Yoga led by Aja marks my first yoga experience ever and I love every bit of it. The day unfolds quietly as I enjoy some nap time and a warm afternoon swim at the beach. The day’s highlight is taking a sunset kayak trip around Mida Creek, setting off at four o’clock. With the kayaks and SUP boards all tied up on the colourful tuk tuks, our little trip to Mida Creek begins. Paul notes that he could easily tie the boats on a private trailer but as part of engaging the local community he uses the tuk tuks for transport. Wading through the mangrove channels on the SUP boards and kayaks will forever be my favourite experience at Watamu Treehouse. We swim at the creek before taking a lovely walk inside the mangrove forest, ending up at a serene sandbank where I can’t help but play in the mud puddles. My inner child is awakened and it is fulfilling to let go. The sunset backdrop is perfect for doing a yoga session on the SUP boards before heading back. What started off as a project to build a family house is now ultimately one of the best yoga retreat centres in Kenya. Paul Krystall began by renting out the rooms at his family home as a way of projecting and sharing his wellness lifestyle with others. It has now become a fulltime pleasure to host guests as well as other yoga teachers at the Treehouse. I leave the place feeling more relaxed and rejuvenated having experienced the true Watamu Treehouse effect.
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PHOTOGRAPHS: BRIAN SIAMBI, HANDZAROUND
A DOLPHIN AFFAIR
While staying at Turtle Bay Beach Resort, Faith Kanja heads off on a fruitful bottlenose dolphin watching excursion at Watamu Marine Park. PHOTOGRAPHS BRIAN SIAMBI
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hile in Watamu, a visit to the marine park is always worthwhile. Also known as a haven for the green turtles, Watamu Marine Park is a favourite for spotting dolphins and whale sharks during their peak migratory seasons. The Kenyan coast boasts rich marine life with up to 24 mammal marine species recorded. We were elated to spot numerous Indo-Pacific bottlenose dolphin pods during our recent visit to the park. Our morning cruise into the reefs was characterised by calm water and cool temperature thanks to a few clouds scattered across the sky. As our two crew members, Omar and Mohammed steered us further into the sea, I was excited to catch sight of little jellyfish which were bouncing buoyantly inside the blue waters with the occasional colourful fish swimming underneath our boat as we sailed deeper into the sea. “Look at that!!” someone screeched in excitement as they pointed towards the water a few metres away from our boat. We spotted a pod of dolphins playfully riding through the waves as they sequentially jumped out of the water; I was awed by their large number. Omar commented that we are very lucky to have come across a huge sighting of these majestic creatures. It then became a spot-and-chase affair since the dolphins momentarily hid beneath the water before jumping out in a different spot. There are times the navigators brought the boats and engines to a complete halt as we waited in silence to spot them again. Speaking to Mr Mwang’ombe, the Marine Mammal Project Coordinator at Watamu Marine Association, he informed me that Kenya’s first commercial dolphin watching tours were offered in the 1990s. They mainly concentrated in the central and southern coastal areas that included the Malindi Watamu National Marine Park and Reserve and the Kisite -Mpunguti National Marine Park and Reserve. These areas were traditional fishing towns until tourism took over as the main source of revenue in the 1970s. According to the International Whaling Commission’s Whale Watching Handbook of 2018, Marine tourism at the Kenyan coast was initially focused on diving and snorkelling. However, a number of fishermen who were accustomed to spending hours on the water carefully watching for signs of productivity and good fishing realized that they could supplement their income
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It then became a spot-and-chase affair since the dolphins momentarily hid beneath the water before jumping out in a different spot. by using their vessels to take tourists to see the resident populations of Indo-Pacific bottlenose dolphins that were known to frequent the area. As of 2017, there were 40 boat operators offering dolphin watching and snorkelling activities for domestic and international tourists in the Malindi Watamu National Marine Park and Reserve and 1012 in the Kisite-Mpunguti National Marine Park and Reserve. The Indo-Pacific bottlenose dolphins are the main resident marine mammals in Malindi Watamu and Kisite-Mpunguti Marine Protected Areas with a population of about between 141 and 168 individuals per site. They are considered to be endangered due to threats arising from overfishing and increased human coastal activities. You can also spot the Indian Ocean humpback dolphins which are found inshore and at the entrances to creeks. They have been sighted swimming along the coast from Kisite to Malindi. They are frequently seen with the Indo-Pacific bottlenose dolphins who feed in larger family groups. This, as Mr
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Mwang’ombe explains, could be a survival strategy. Humpback whales migrate from their feeding grounds in Antarctica along the East African coast to breed and calve. Kenya has witnessed a general increase in numbers, especially in Watamu. As a result, the tourism industry is highly marketing whale-watching expeditions. Combined with the Mara wildebeest migration, this makes for an attractive unique wildlife experience in Kenya dubbed “The Twin Migration – Whales to Wildebeest” as both migrations coincide from July to August. It is amazing to note that the Watamu Marine Association together with other stakeholders work with a group of citizens and marine users to report sightings through social media and Whatsapp. After watching the dolphins, we headed back towards the eroded coral ledges to do some snorkelling. The underwater world is spectacular and for a split second I imagined myself on a mini-quest to find Dory.
WHERE WE STAYED The Dolphin watching experience can be arranged as an excursion while staying at Turtle Bay Beach Resort. Voted one of the best all-inclusive hotels in the TripAdvisor Traveler’s Choice Award, the resort is perfect for family stays as well as conferencing. The 145 club rooms and suites are suited for various kinds of travellers. With two amazing swimming pools, the resort prides itself on having a water sports centre as well as a kids club. There are four restaurants to dine in, our favourite being the Weavers Nest which offers delectable pizzas. Turtle Bay Beach Resort is also Kenya’s first hotel to be awarded the Gold ecorating by the Ecotourism Kenya due its commendable eco-policy. www.turtlebaykenya.com
INTERESTING FACTS ABOUT THE BOTTLENOSE DOLPHINS •
• • • •
There are two species of bottlenose dolphins in Kenya: the smaller 2.8m Indo-Pacific bottlenose dolphin and the larger (3.9m) common bottlenose. The latter is found offshore and the former dwells close to the coast. They are the species of dolphin you are most likely to see if you go dolphin watching in Kenya They are aggressive and are known to attack other species of dolphins They are highly social mammals and are closely bonded in family pods Young dolphins remain with their mothers until fully weaned at two years.
Dolphin Watching Excursion The boat tour fees is KES 3000 per person Park Fees: Citizen: KES 130 Resident: KES 300 Non- Resident: $17
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KAMILI HOUSE A STYLISH HAVEN IN KILIFI
The former coastal home of one of Kenya's earliest female bush pilots, Heather Stewart, this stylish high-end holiday home south of Kilifi Creek has the most perfect of locations, writes Wendy Watta PHOTOGRAPHS BRIAN SIAMBI
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used to consider Kilifi a go-to town for backpackers given the array of affordable accommodation and entertainment options here, with most high-end holiday homes being found in surrounding beach towns. Finding a spot like Kamili House online, therefore, was a pleasant surprise. That very weekend, our flight from Nairobi was booked and a bright red tuk tuk which picked us up from Malindi Airport was rattling down a sandy road towards the house. The chalk-white Kamili House sits in a thriving lush green garden south of Kilifi Creek and comfortably sleeps 11 people in four suites, one twin and one single bedroom. A front terrace where we spent many an evening playing board games, dancing and dining opens up to a sky blue infinity pool and ancient baobab trees. The pink lounging pool chairs match the bougainvillea flowers dotted around the garden. Set on top of a cliff, we would take a break from playing make-do water polo to gaze at the expansive Indian Ocean below us. Here, at the crack of dawn, we would spot fishermen sailing back to the village with their catch from the previous night. A small wooden gate leads from the pool area down to a private
WEEKEND AWAY
GETTING THERE Kamili has its own helipad if you choose to arrive on a private charter. Otherwise Kilifi is easy to get to, with scheduled flights to Mombasa (90 mins), Malindi (60 mins) or Vipingo (20 mins) away. There is also an airstrip on the Kilifi Plantation, a five minute drive from Kamili for private charters and personal aircrafts. Rates start at Ksh 65,000 for eight people or less, and Ksh 80,000 for more than eight. sandy beach where we would go looking for colourful shells at low tide. Originally purchased and renovated by Heather in 2010, Kamili has now been passed on to her children and remains first and foremost a family holiday home. Fondly known during her flying days as “All-weather Heather”, she came to Kenya in 1959 and started commercial flying in 1969 with the Flying Doctors. She spent the next 40 years flying throughout the East African region and became renowned for her selflessness, bravery and professionalism flying relief missions into then war-torn Somalia and Southern Sudan. Working in a male-dominated field, she knew how to navigate the bush like no other pilot. In her 2017 obituary, The Times reported that in her time flying aid workers, doctors, nurses and missionaries, she developed a few tricks of the trade such as camphor soaked cotton wool in the nostrils while airlifting casualties with gangrenous wounds. When calculated risk dissolved into regular brushes with death, her obituary read, she laughed it off.
Heather is said to have had a keen eye for detail with a love for landscaping, and the grounds at her seaside haven coupled with the decor at the house are testament to that. The lawns here are still immaculately kept and bright flowers bloom around the property, perfectly matched by the charming decor within the high-ceilinged living areas. There are white terrazzo floors upon which sit antique Persian kilims, rustic intricately carved wooden doors with a distressed finish, a clear love for pottery as indoor accessories, colourful photographs and paintings depicting daily life in Kenya, laidback Swahili chairs and tables with antique chests, as well as family photographs which give the space a personalised feel. The house is bright and airy, chic yet comfortable, a real home away from home. My room even had a private courtyard with a checkered black and white floor which resembled a giant chessboard, engulfed by palm trees. Kamili is Swahili for ‘complete’ or “perfect”, a name I found befitting; even if
one were to be confined within these two acres for the duration of their holiday, they still wouldn’t feel the need to leave. You can cook your own meals but we chose to have the kitchen staff handle all our food and shopping. We had a fresh tuna for lunch, accompanied by a courgette salad, fries, prawns and tzatziki sauce. There was also a cheese-and-greens stuffed baguette accompanied by a salad made with cilantro and mangoes which were in full season. The highlight, however, was the poolside Swahili dinner on our last night. On top of a blue table-cloth stood glowing candlestands and a vase of fresh frangipani. Soft chapati that came apart in layers like primary school exercise books were cut into even triangles then neatly laid on a plate. There was coconut rice, kachumbari, samosas and the star of the night; a spicy Swahili fish curry which we cleared in seconds, but let’s just say that it’s because we didn’t want it to be cooled by the breeze. www.kamilihouse.com
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SCALING THE
SIMIEN MOUNTAINS PHOTOGRAPHS MAURICE SCHUTGENS
The Simiens are one of Africa’s most dramatic landscapes, endowed with arresting valleys, hidden waterfalls and sudden precipices. Maurice Schutgens travelled to the popularly named Roof of Africa to experience life on Ethiopia’s isolated plateau.
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Hundreds upon hundreds of gelada monkeys came storming towards the cliff. Utterly bewitched, we looked on as without missing a beat they launched themselves off the edge with abandon.
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brutal journey of buses and sleepless nights gave way to the somewhat gritty town of Debark, the gateway to the Simien Mountains National Park. Debark could not have been a bigger contrast to the manic hustle and bustle of Addis. We had arrived with little more than a vague plan, so we immediately headed for the park’s headquarters. Arranging our trip proved to be a hassle free formality and soon we were introduced to a local AK-47 wielding ranger who would accompany us throughout our three-day trek. His name was Kofi, an easygoing wiry-looking chap with a toothy grin who we soon learned spoke a total of five phrases (I don’t know, we go, yes, no, not far). None of his answers ever filled us with any confidence and neither did his general laissez-a-faire attitude to gun safety given the manner he carried his rusty kalashnikov. Early the next morning we caught a ride on a vehicle heading into the park with a bunch of tourists. As we drove higher on the dusty winding roads, we caught fleeting glimpses of the world-famous views over northern Ethiopia. We could barely contain our excitement. We jumped out at Michibiny (3,230m), no more than a collection of huts situated spectacularly on the edge of the escarpment, and kicked off our slow acclimatisation hike. The wind tore at our clothes as we inched closer to the trail that lay within feet of the terrifyingly exposed sheer cliffs.
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Within a few hours we had become closely acquainted with the unrivalled kings of the Simiens: the Gelada Baboons (Theropithecus gelada). These Old World Monkeys with distinctive red patches on their chests (giving rise to their poetic name the bleeding heart baboon), expressive faces and intimidating canines are the world’s only primates that survive solely on grass. We soon learned that the geladas were so unimpressed by human presence that we were able to sit amongst them as they went about their grass eating business, interrupted only by the odd violent bark, sharp falsetto cry or dismissive grunt. After two hours we stumbled into Sankaber Camp grateful for a quick rest but Kofi was soon on our case: “Not far - we go” he gesticulated, but the urgency with which he said it suggested quite the opposite. We shouldered our backpacks and trudged into thin air. Suddenly, there before us was the highlight of this first day: the Jinbar Waterfall, a spectacular cascade plunging over 500m into the Geech abyss below. We stood mesmerised until Kofi pulled us out of our trance. Leaving the falls behind was a steep climb in the sweltering heat for several more hours until we reached the traditional Muslim village of Geech (3,600m), located on a beautifully exposed spot on the golden grasslands that
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gently roll towards the precipitous drop on the horizon. That night, as the sun threatened to dip below the escarpment, hundreds upon hundreds of gelada monkeys came storming towards the cliff. Utterly bewitched, we looked on as without missing a beat and without as much as a check in their speed they launched themselves off the edge with abandon. Seconds later they were transformed into furry brown projectiles, hurtling down the face. At the last possible moment, an outstretched arm hooked onto a random but clearly calculated tuft of grass to arrest their suicidal leap. Slowly they retreated into hidden caves in the rockface, a place where they would be safe from the elusive leopards on the prowl. I had never witnessed something so fascinating. During the night temperatures plummeted far below zero. While the facilities were basic (think a poorly ventilated tin shack), we were grateful to be cocooned within a sleeping bag under a thick set of fleainfested blankets trying to ignore the awful snoring cacophony. In our attempts to transform this trip into a budget lightweight affair we had brought minimal supplies. The only meal available, Injera (a staple fermented flatbread) with a simple vegetable sauce, tasted like a five-star gourmet meal.
The next morning, with the air freezing in our breath, we hit the trail again. As we climbed higher we passed through stunning patches of afro-alpine forest and jaw-dropping landscapes of moorlands and giant lobelias where in my imagination dinosaurs would have once roamed. Our destination was Chennek campsite, with a detour past Imet Gogo, the jewel of the Simiens. Imet Gogo (3,926m) offered unparalleled views of dramatic gorges and rising pinnacles. In silence, we simply sat and stared until with sadness we had to pull ourselves away. As shadows lengthened on our final night we got chatting to an English speaking guide at Chennek about the mystical Ethiopian Wolf (Canis simensis), the world’s rarest canid and Africa’s most endangered carnivore, endemic to the Ethiopian highlands. With a global population numbering less than 500 individuals they are few and far between, especially in the Simiens where there are fewer than 100. The guide captivated us with stories of how in previous years he used to spot them regularly not far from the camp but hadn't seen them recently. Determined, we headed out into a beautiful patch of afroalpine forest and sat down to wait. The hours passed. Nothing. But just as the sun started to lose its strength and the moon rose above the cliffs, there it was; a wolf. Partially hidden through a maze of trees, looking directly back at us. I held my breath, we locked eyes, then it was gone.
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THRILLSEEKING Rock climbing is a unique sport of equal parts adventure and athleticism, requiring technique, tenacity and courage. James Mixon speaks to Samson Mwangi, a gym manager and part of Kenya’s growing community of climbers.
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ADVENTURE TRAVEL
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t Lukenya, a golden-copper vista of jumbled granite cliffs that glitter over Mombasa Highway just north of Machakos, Samson Mwangi glides from foothold to foothold like a much lighter man. A rope is tied to his harness which jingles with dozens of metal gadgets — he occasionally pulls one off and places it into a crack in the rock to protect himself from a fall. “Twende twende!” Samson Mwangi looks for a fearless go-getter attitude in a rock climbing partner. “With hiking you can just wake up and get going. With climbing, however, you have to train, learn the techniques and safety terms,” he says. Rock climbing takes commitment and Samson is among a growing number of Kenyans for whom this is not just a favourite sport but an activity that has changed their lives. Currently the manager of Climb BlueSky, a climbing gym in Westlands, Samson says that he started climbing for exercise. As he delicately shifts his weight from one toe to the other, gripping the crystals with his fingertips, his physical prowess is evident. His passion for the sport quickly grew. “The more you climb, the more you find freedom and connection with nature. It’s about the skill, flow, mindset, risk assessment...it’s really all-around for a person.” Rock climbing is a unique sport of equal parts adventure and athleticism requiring technique, tenacity and courage. Some people are drawn to it for the personal challenge since you compete against no one and nothing except your own strength and flexibility. Some love the thrill of taking risks; pushing themselves to the edge and knowing just when to stop. Others, still, love the technical complexity — the systems, equipment and creativity needed to problemsolve and stay safe. If you have ever biked through Hell’s Gate National Park and looked up at the towering orange walls of volcanic rock, imagine yourself 100m in the air over the savanna on a sheer vertical journey spying on giraffes and tourists, and you might understand the appeal. The sport of rock climbing hit the global scene in the last several decades and a culture and industry emerged centered around the U.S. and Europe, but is rapidly expanding. In most of Africa, it remains at best a fringe activity practiced by visiting foreigners. Kenya is an exception: the intimidating granite massif of Mount Kenya was first climbed well over a century ago in 1899
heralding in a rich history of vertical exploration in the country. Beginning in the 1960s, a tiny squad of adventurous climbers started pursuing the sport in earnest, writing guidebooks full of hundreds of ascents in places as far apart as Mount Kenya, Tsavo National Park and cliff lines hidden away in the Ngong Hills. That heritage has been kept alive in large part by the Mountain Club of Kenya, a melting pot of Kenyan and expatriate climbing enthusiasts, as well as places like Climb BlueSky, the first public climbing gym in the country. Here, long-time climbers can find their tribe and interested newcomers can cut their teeth and find experienced mentors.
If you have ever taken an outing to bike through Hell’s Gate National Park and looked up at the towering orange walls of volcanic rock, imagine yourself a hundred meters in the air over the savanna on a sheer vertical journey, spying on giraffes and tourists — and you might understand the appeal. The sport is multi-generational: you might meet lanky teenagers from Nairobi who have found their passion on the colourful walls of the gym and will hotly debate you on the best way to make a particular move, or you might encounter someone like James “KG” Kagambi, the Kenyan school teacher-turned-mountaineer who was the first black African to ascend some of the tallest mountains in the world like North America’s Denali and Argentina’s Aconcagua. “Not a lot of people do it so it feels like a niche that I can have an impact in: encouraging people to take up the sport in Kenya,” says Peter Naituli, a young mountaineer who has pushed his own limits on Mount Kenya. Whereas most sports draw people to a central and convenient location like a football pitch or yoga studio, climbing serves the opposite purpose — it takes small groups of people well off the beaten path. It requires a lot of technical equipment which
has historically been hard to find in Kenya because of the sport’s relative obscurity. You often have to go places a matatu won’t take you and you need the knowledge and knowhow to get back safely. “The risk is real,” says Samson, “You have to spend a lot of time learning. [My friends] think that I’m doing something unreasonable. They don’t know how we train to achieve that.” In 2019 alone, however, he took almost 200 people out climbing, sharing his knowledge and love for the sport in the way that it has always been passed down: from person to person. Just like for him, climbing quickly teaches his guests more than fitness. “People become more focused, whether in life or in climbing. They become more disciplined, knowing that if they can’t make it today, they can make it tomorrow.” In recent years more Nairobians are looking to escape the crowds, hiking, camping and exploring the country around them. With this adventurous spirit spreading palpably across the city, rock climbing is becoming increasingly accessible. There are more places to learn and to find equipment (like Decathlon sports at Yaya Centre), and more opportunities to get outside with experienced climbers. The sport will never be for everyone, but for those looking for something more strenuous than a day hike and more remote than Karura, rock climbing might just be the perfect challenge.
GETTING STARTED: If you’ve never climbed: Check out the Climb Bluesky climbing gym at Diamond Plaza or their climbing tower at Valley Arcade (www.blueskykenya.org/climb). You can rent equipment and learn how to use a rope to “belay” a friend. The staff are friendly and always excited to share their knowledge. If you’re looking for an adventure: Visit Hell’s Gate National Park and climb with James Maina (0727 039 388). He will provide all the equipment and you’ll get a chance to test yourself on the best rock climbing in the Rift Valley. You can start small on Fischer’s Tower - it only takes 20 minutes! If you’re looking for friends: Join the Mountain Club of Kenya (www.mck.or.ke) and plug into the longest-standing climbing community in the country. An annual membership costs Ksh 4,000 and gets you access to climbing areas, events, trainings and more.
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SMOKE THAT THUNDERS Following reports on western media that Victoria Falls has dried to a trickle, Wendy Watta books a stay at Thorntree River Lodge and covers 3,000km from Nairobi to Zambia to see if there’s any truth to this, then stays to explore the tourist town of Livingstone.
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nternational media outlets have been reporting that Victoria Falls, one of the seven natural wonders of the world, has dried to a trickle after one of the biggest droughts in recent history, caused by climate change. I was dismayed by these reports...how could the largest sheet of falling water in the world, at about 1,700m and crossing borders between Zambia and Zimbabwe be drying up? If there was a chance that I would never see the falls in my lifetime, I wanted to make the most of whatever time was left by heading down to Zambia. A friend and I made a road trip out of it, covering over 3,000km from Nairobi to Livingstone via Tanzania, and with the help of Thorntree River Lodge by African Bush Camps, coming up with a plan to visit the falls while also exploring this tourist hotspot.
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The lodge is set within Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park and we kept within the 65 kmph speed limit until we got to the entrance where we were jubilantly welcomed by staff members singing traditional Zambian Tonga songs. A soothing drink and complimentary neck and shoulder massage followed, a relaxing reprieve after our long journey. We were booked here for two nights and even for the most jaded of travelers, the location and outfitting of the spaces at Thorntree River Lodge are simply spectacular. The Zambezi River is the crowning jewel and the design of the property which is set right on its banks, coupled with the Fox Browne Creative-led decor draws inspiration from it. There are only 12 chic rooms on the property. A favourite piece in my cabin was a large striking tribal black and white David Ballam portrait of a boy balancing a pot on his head. A huge double bed with LED lights under it glowed in the dark, and there was a lounging area to the side. A walk in closet, indoor shower and a bathtub looking out onto the river completed the space. There were sliding doors in the room which went all the way back completely opening up the space to the front porch and surrounding greenery. Given the privacy, clothing here was optional. An outdoor shower and pool on the side deck of the room were only a few metres from my bed, and with everything overlooking the water, it was by all accounts a beautiful space. The decor in the main living spaces was contemporary urban. Cool and moody from the black and blue palette used in the upholstery, and yet bright and airy from all the light coming in through the floor to ceiling glass walls as well as contrasting white furniture. Decorative copper jugs of various sizes gleamed on teak tables as they caught the afternoon light. There were also elements of basketry by Zambia’s BaTonga community, showcased in woven pieces such as decorative traditional fishing nets and light fixtures above the bar. The layering of various textures, the traditional and the contemporary, the bespoke and the vintage enriched the cozy spaces which looked like they belonged on the cover of a high end decor magazine. VICTORIA FALLS I reluctantly tore myself away from sunbathing on a sleek white chaise lounge partially submerged on the shallow end of a rim-flow pool to set off for Victoria Falls with our appointed guide, Quentino. The instructions were simple: wear clothes and shoes you wouldn’t mind getting wet (I went for shorts, a tank top and sandals with good grip). Having paid the $20 entrance fee, we spent the next hour and a half walking from one viewing point to the other, each offering a different perspective of the falls.
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Euphoria washed over me the very first time I saw Victoria Falls and I started screaming as though I had just lost my mind until my travel buddy had to yank me out of my trance. It was the most spectacular view I had ever seen in my life; pictures and videos don’t even do it justice. The dark basalt cliff down which the falls thundered with sheer ferocity transformed the Zambezi River from a tranquil pool of water gently flowing along the earth to an untamed beast gushing down a series of dramatic gorges 100m below. As I gazed at the mist which hung above the rushing water, I could see why it was called MosiOa-Tunya in the local language, translating to ‘the smoke that thunders’. Victoria Falls had by no means dried up this season. I also spotted two pronounced rainbows curved as if posing for a picture right above the falls, each at separate viewpoints. They were hard to miss. Quentino handed us green rain ponchos and we suited up then made our way through the rain-forest to yet another viewpoint as tremendous water sprays from the falls pelted at us. We passed the bridge over the second gorge and from which adrenaline junkees often bungee jump then made our way to Knife-edge Bridge which turned out to be my favourite part of the entire walk. It was pouring down in torrents and there was a fog above the Eastern Cataract, Main Falls and Boiling Pot which blurred into white obscurity in the distance, but the dangerous drop looked otherworldly. Cold and with our waterproof phones spent, we crossed over to the dry side. At one of the shallow points of the river we saw a crafts vendor from a stand at the main entrance to the falls come to wash his hands and face in the water. Quentino explained the superstition behind this; he had just opened shop and believed he would get more customers. The water here was thought to be so powerful that if you were sick in the local community, you would be brought here to swim, fully clothed. Afterwards you would undress and leave your clothes to be washed away by the water, an act of washing away whatever ailed you. WALKING WITH WHITE RHINOS Still with Quentino who had become more like a friend than a guide, we set off to track white rhinos on foot at Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park. He explained that in 2006, Zambia exchanged several sable antelopes for two male and two female white rhinos from South Africa. After being brought in, the animals delayed breeding. When vets came to study them, they discovered that
they were being disrupted at their feeding area by the low-flying micro-flights taking guests over the Victoria Falls. Having been moved to a different area (although they still freely roam all over the park) the number multiplied, but today there are eight white rhinos down from 13 in 2018. Two were poached (the perpetrators each got seven years in jail), two died naturally, there was a new born baby in 2019, and a few days before our arrival, two were killed by a truck which had been disregarding the speed limit on the public tarmac road to Botswana which cuts through the park. We got an armed AK-47 wielding ranger who had been tracking the animals all morning and followed him a single file for about 10 minutes past bushes trimmed by impalas and bush bucks. Then we came to a clearing where two young female and one male white rhino were peacefully browsing, unperturbed by our presence. At less than 100m away, we were practically eye to eye. SUNSET CRUISE ON THE ZAMBEZI Back in my room at Thorntree River Lodge, I was lying on a sunbed by my very own pool watching several monkeys flitting from tree to tree when I got a call reminding me that we had a sunset river cruise set up. What followed was a gentle and relaxing cruise on the Zambezi River, past water berries and various freshwater birds like the Egyptian goose, as our captain Ezekial fixed us gin and tonics then proceeded to steer the boat upstream. The sun, when it started its descent, turned everyone on board into a poet and photographer. Dinner back at the property was announced via traditional drums, pulling me from the comfortable library - the only place in the property where one could access WiFi- from where I walked down to a semi-circular river deck, possibly one of the lowest parts of the lodge. There was a beautiful orange glow all round from the
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lanterns that had been set up as well as a karai with a log-fire burning for warmth, and a waiter promptly arrived at our beautifully laid out table under the stars to ask for our drink orders. The lodge has its very own well stocked wine cellar with an array of South African offerings, and since guests are often booked on all-inclusive basis, I asked for yet another glass of Amarula which was followed by a glass of white chenin blanc for my main course. There was a roasted butternut and apple soup as a starter, then an oxtail mains and decadent chocolate mousse for dessert. As I listened to the gentle swish of the water in the dark coupled by biophony which included the croaking of frogs and buzzing of insects, I couldn’t help but think about how romantic this setting was, and how I needed to return with a partner. And yet, we still had four more days to explore Livingstone… Other activities available include guided walking safaris, game drives, canoeing, catch and release fishing and boat cruises on a secluded section of the Zambezi River all led by qualified and passionate guides who will share their knowledge and love of the bush with you. All activities are complimentary once you book. www.africanbushcamps.com
As I gazed at the mist which hung above the rushing water, I could see why it was called Mosi-Oa-Tunya in the local language, translating to ‘the smoke that thunders’. Victoria Falls had by no means dried up this season.
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