Brand Responsibility

What do the Star of David, the jungle, Kent State University, Chinese gowns, and pink triangles all have in common? Interestingly enough, this isn’t a bad riddle – it’s bad branding.

For those of you unfamiliar with the most recent scandal of poor taste, earlier this year, H&M came out with a childrens sweatshirt with the words “Coolest Monkey in the Jungle” written across the front. Seemingly harmless, controversy began when the multinational retailer used a black boy as a model for the sweatshirt. This insensitive marketing decision seemed to draw a parallel between black people and their historical, dehumanizing portrayal as monkey-like.

This is just the newest example in a long history of retailers creating insensitive clothing or advertisements such as Zara’s Star of David children’s shirts, and Urban Outfitters’ seemingly blood-stained Kent State sweatshirt. With over 2100 stores in 88 countries and 15.4 billion euros of net sales, a brand like Zara has a platform to influence what people think and wear, and they have a responsibility to promote respect and not perpetuate stereotypes or portray sensitive moments with insensitivity.

Fast fashion brands are not the only offenders of cultural respect and white-washing, however. Time after time, we see high fashion brands debut runway looks stolen or stereotyped from cultures with the excuse that it is for the art of fashion. The 2015 Met Gala exhibit, “China Through the Looking Glass,” is a perfect example of this cultural appropriation in fashion. John Galliano’s stereotyped image of Chinese culture in Dior’s Spring-Summer 2007 show presented in this exhibit was just one example of the overwhelmingly white and Western portrayal of Chinese culture and appropriation. These moments of racism in the fashion world are often excused in high fashion because there is a stronger idea of art and high culture than in mass-produced fashion, but brands like Dior and Valentino should be held to the same standard as brands like Zara and H&M.

Multinational retailers are considered fashion for the masses, and their lack of responsibility that is shown through their missteps begs a serious question. How many minorities are represented in their companies? Marketing decisions and brand portrayals have to be approved by a multitude of people, but H&M’s sweatshirt and Zara’s t-shirt only makes one wonder how many minorities were there to sign off on the decisions.

For both high and fast fashion, brand responsibility seems to be a foreign concept. To the retailers and fashion houses: instead of looking for “inspiration” without regard for the cultural connotations and context, acknowledge the importance of certain symbols and costumes by portraying them with respect and accuracy to their mother culture. Moreover, use a more discerning – or more culturally aware – eye when deciding whether or not to make insensitive and shocking clothing, whether it be for the masses or for the runway. In an era of progressivity and respect, keep up with the times and promote a more wholesome worldview instead of perpetuating stereotypes.

“TIME AFTER TIME, WE SEE HIGH FASHION BRANDS DEBUT RUNWAY LOOKS STOLEN OR STEREOTYPED FROM CULTURES WITH THE EXCUSE THAT IT IS FOR THE ART OF FASHION.”

As for you, the consumer, stick up for what you know is right. Let designers and brands know when they have made a mistake. It isn’t necessary to stop buying clothes from retailers entirely, but when an item seems offensive, hold them accountable. In an age of social media, it is even easier to call out brands, and we should all be using these tools to our advantage. Most importantly, as untouchable as it may be, high fashion still abides by the rules and expectations of society, so if I leave you with anything, let it be the confidence to call out the likes of John Galliano, Marc Jacobs, and Zara.

By: Hugo Barrillon