Photographing ICELAND Volume 2 by Michael Ryan

A TRAVEL & PHOTO-LOCATION GUIDEBOOK TO THE MOST BEAUTIFUL PLACES

PHOTOGRAPHING

ICELAND BY JAMES RUSHFORTH

VOLUME 2

THE HIGHLANDS & INTERIOR

PHOTOGRAPHING

ICELAND VOLUME 2 JAMES RUSHFORTH

First published in the United Kingdom in 2021 by fotoVUE. www.fotovue.com

Copyright © fotoVUE Limited 2021. Text and Photography: Copyright © James Rushforth 2021. Foreword: Copyright © ?????????????????????? 2021. Additional photography: Gary Beff, Michael Blum, Egill Bjarnason, Sveinn Birkir Bjornsson, Sebastian Boring, Sven Broeckx, Ruedi Häberli, Hugo Healy, Friðþjofur Helgason, Stuart Holmes, Marius Kastečkas, Ben Klea, Asuri Saranathan Lakshmanan, Robert Lukeman, Jacob Meissner, Fabian Møller, NASA, Anders Nyberg, Jonatan Pie, Einar Reynis, Martin Sammtleben, Christian Schmidt, Judith Scott, Lizzie Shepherd, Sigurjón Sigurðsson, Michelle Spollen, Annie Spratt, Fredrik Strømme, Geraldine Westrupp, Doruk Yemenici and Andrew Yu. James Rushforth has asserted his right under the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act 1988 to be identified as the author of this work. All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or by any information storage and retrieval system without the written permission of the publisher, except for the use of brief quotations in a book review. TRADEMARKS: fotoVUE and the fotoVUE wordmark are the registered trademarks of fotoVUE Ltd. Publisher: Mick Ryan – fotoVUE Ltd. Design and production by Ryder Design – www.ryderdesign.studio Layout by James Rushforth. Copy and proof editing by Lynne Hempton. Nordic language advisor: Roy Hodson. Map Overlay Graphics: Mark Crowther, Mick Ryan, James Rushforth. All maps within this publication were produced by Don Williams of Bute Cartographics with the help of James Rushforth. Maps based on data from National Land Survey of Iceland © 2019. A CIP catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library. ISBN 978-1-9160145-6-5 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 The author, publisher and others involved in the design and publication of this guide book accept no responsibility for any loss or damage users may suffer as a result of using this book. Users of this book are responsible for their own safety and use the information herein at their own risk. Users should always be aware of weather forecasts, conditions, time of day and their own ability before venturing out. Front cover: An exposure bracketed image of an ice cave entrance in the Breiðamerkurjökull glacier. Nikon D850, 24–70mm at 24mm, ISO 100, various at f/14, tripod. Feb. Rear cover left: Looking north-east over Reykjavík towards Mount Esja. Nikon D850, 70–200mm at 165mm, ISO 100, 1/160s at f/6.3. Feb. Rear cover centre: A magical display of the northern lights above the Vestrahorn in south-east Iceland. Canon 5DIV, 16–35mm at 16mm, tripod. Mar. © Marius Kastečkas. Rear cover right: Sunrise at Diamond beach. Nikon D810, 20mm, ISO 100, 5s at f/16. BP X4 6-stop CPL, tripod. Oct. Opposite: The sun sets over the Ódáðahraun desert in the northern highlands. Nikon D810, 70–20mm at 160mm, ISO 200, 1/160s at f/2.8. Aug. Printed and bound in Europe by Latitude Press Ltd.

“Af góðu upphafi vonast góður endir” – “A good beginning makes a good ending” ICELANDIC PROVERB

Hornbjarg

Bolungarvík Hnífsdalur

Sauðárkrókur

Hólmavík

11 12

13-16 Reykjahlíd Mývatn

iði

Faxaflói Akranes

Garður Sandgerði

Keflavík Hafnir

Álftanes Vogar Njarðvik

1-4

Hafnarfjörður

Grindavík

Þorlákshöfn

8 Gullfoss

Laugarvatn

12 11 14 13

Mosfellsbær Þingvallavatn

Geysir

Flúðir

Hveragerði Selfoss

Hekla 1491m

Hella

Hvolsvöllur

Vestmannaeyjar

900 m

Surtsey

600 m 300 m

100 m 0

Kilometres

1-3

Westman Islands

ök

1666m 15

Mý

Eyjafjallajökull

5 6 7

13 16

Vík 8-9 10-11 12

Dyrhólaey

1 1

Gerpir

Reyð

arfjö

6-8

3 Ingólfshöfði

10 11 9

rður

Stöðvarfjörður Breiðdalsvík Djúpivogur Papey

Hvannadalshnúkur 2 2110m 5

Neskaupstaður

Eskifjörður

Snæfell 1833m

l u l ö k j a t n

Laki

10 817m 5 17 3 7 6 11 8 9 14 13Kirkjubæjarklaustur

Laugarás

Eyrarbakki Stokkseyri

Þórisvatn

6 3

Fáskrúðsfjörður

Kverkfjöll 1929m

Bárðarbunga 2009m

Reyðarfjörður

Askja 1510m

jö

Reykjavík

Borgarnes

Seyðisfjörður

Egilsstaðir 2

12 11

Ho f s j ö k u l l

á ur rð

Bakkagerði

Ód

du an ar

8 6-7

t va

Grundarfjörður

Snæfellsjökull

14 15

11-13

7 8

Ólafsvík

Hellissandur

Búðardalur

Vopnafjörður

Fjöllu

1 2

Bland

Stykkishólmur

rð

fjö

a pn

9-10

Laugarbakki

8 6 7

Krafla 818m

Varmahlíð

Hvammstangi

Bre i d f j ö r ð u r

4 5

lsá á

Reykhólar

Akureyri 20

Húsavík

Jöku

Svalbarðseyri

Blönduós

Drangsnes

Flatey

Hrísey Grenvík

Árskógssandur Hauganes

Hofsós

Skagaströnd

Gláma 920m

lfan

Dalvík

Þorshöfn

Skjá

ðu

Ólafsfjörður

rðu

gafjö

ör

Bíldudalur Tálknafjörður Patreksfjörður

fjörð

rfj

Ska

jö

Þingeyri

Siglufjörður

Súðavík

Eyja

Ísafjörður

Kópasker

rð rfjö

úp

ðu

r dj

Flateyri

Raufarhöfn

Þi st ilf jö r

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Grímsey

14 13

Höfn

Contents & locations overview

Acknowledgements �� Foreword by ?????????? �� Introduction �� The Icelandic highlands ��

00 00 00 00

Iceland logistics Getting to & around Iceland �� Beyond Iceland – Greenland & The Faroe Islands �� Driving overview �� Driving in the highlands �� Suitable vehicles & car rental �� Where to stay / accommodation �� Money, currency & cutting costs �� Personal safety, emergency procedures & insurance �� Access & conservation ��

00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00

Icelandic weather & climate �� The seasons of Iceland �� When to visit the highlands �� Using this guidebook to get the best images �� Camera, lenses & captions �� Location planner �� Suggested itineraries ��

00 00 00 00 00 00 00

Natural history, culture & wildlife �� Icelandic cultural history �� Icelandic cuisine �� Icelandic flora �� Icelandic fauna �� Icelandic natural history & geomorphology ��

00 00 00 00 00 00

CHAPTER 1 – SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS F35 – The Kjölur Route introduction �� 01 F35 – Kerlingarfjöll mountains �� 02 F35 – Hveravellir hot springs �� F208 & F225 – Fjallabaksleið Nyrðri introduction �� 03 F225 – Rauðfoss waterfall & Rauðufossakvísl source �� 04 F208 – Sigöldufoss waterfall �� 05 F208 – Sigöldugljúfur Canyon & waterfalls �� 06 F208 – Hnausapollur / Bláhylur craterlake �� 07 F208 – Frostastaðavatn lake & Stútur crater �� 08 F208 – Landmannalaugar mountains �� 09 Laugavegur & Fimmvörðuháls hiking trails �� 10 Langisjór lake �� 11 Eldgjá canyon & Ófærufoss waterfall �� F210 & F232 – Fjallabaksleið Syðri introduction �� 12 F210 – Axlafoss waterfall �� 13 F210 – Hólmsárlón lake & Rauðibotn crater �� 14 F232 & F210 – Mælifell volcano �� 15 Þórsmörk / Thórsmörk Nature Reserve �� 16 Þakgil / Thakgil canyons �� 17 Lakagígar volcanic fissure & Laki Loop ��

CHAPTER 3 – FEATURE PAGES 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00

01 Highlands from the air �� 00 02 Aurora Borealis / Northern Lights �� 00 Iceland logistics �� Appendix A – useful information & web links �� Appendix B – language & key phrases �� Appendix C – g lossary ��

00 00 00 00

Wild Photography Holidays – landscape & travel photography tours and workshops �� About fotoVUE – upcoming titles �� Index �� About the author ��

00 00 00 00

CHAPTER 2 – NORTHERN HIGHLANDS 26 – Sprengisandsleið Introduction �� F 01 F26 – Aldeyjarfoss & Ingvararfoss waterfalls �� 02 F26 – Hrafnabjargafoss waterfall �� 03 Askja caldera & Dyngjufjöll mountains �� 04 Kverkfjöll mountains ��

00 00 00 00 00

CONTENTS & LOCATIONS OVERVIEW

Introduction

“ I have fantasies of going to Iceland, never to return.” EDWARD GOREY

Rightly regarded as one of the world’s most photogenic destinations, Iceland needs little introduction. This literal land of ice and fire perfectly epitomises our constantly evolving planet, and there are few countries so clearly defined by, and inextricably linked with, the elemental forces of nature. Here the incessant wind howls over this diverse land of volcanoes, glittering ice caps and basalt black deserts, the sparse vegetation and moss-blanketed lava fields standing out all the brighter for their dark surroundings. Nestled between the extensive fjord systems and characteristic layered mountains lies a network of quaint fishing villages, picturesque hamlets and turf churches built in a style that has not changed for hundreds of years. A realm of epic sagas, daring deeds of survival and mythic folklore, Iceland is as culturally rich as it is aesthetically resplendent. With Viking ancestry and a fascinating history, Icelanders have stubbornly battled ferocious arctic weather, volcanic activity and inhospitable conditions for a millennium, before finally emerging as one of the world’s most progressive nations. Today the country’s inhabitants demonstrate a wonderfully dry sense of humour, are disarming in their honesty, and inspire through their resilience, creativity and work ethic. Over the last decade I have had the pleasure of exploring this magical island through day and night, in all seasons, climbing, ski mountaineering and walking. My discoveries and favourite places are detailed in this guide, both the classic and seldom frequented. I hope you find it a useful resource that serves as a creative catalyst for your own work, inspiring visitors to discover new locations and vantage points in a land that offers nearly endless creative potential. I wish you all a safe, productive and, most of all, enjoyable trip to Iceland.

James Rushforth January 2021

Opposite: The otherworldly crater row north-west of Hnausapollur. DJI P4P, 24mm, ISO 100, 1/500s at f/5. Aug.

James enjoying spectacular views at Landmannalaugar. DJI P4P, 24mm, ISO 100, 1/160s at f/4.5. Aug.

INTRODUCTION

The Icelandic highlands

Only accessible for a few months a year, Iceland’s enigmatic highlands are one of the most desolate yet beautiful locations on Earth, where the interaction of wind, water and fire has sculpted a unique upland environment defined by inhospitable landscapes, extreme weather and rugged topography. Much of the region’s photographic appeal lies in this epitome of the Icelandic archetype, with no permanent habitation, a preference for unmetalled roads and very little infrastructure. A trip to this area of genuine wilderness therefore requires careful consideration and planning to ensure a safe and productive visit. The long and often difficult driving approaches make many of the locations in the highlands unsuitable for hit and run tourism; photographers hoping to see everything in a day will have a somewhat superficial experience and are likely to leave frustrated. Instead, a more protracted approach is recommended, using the various hostels found throughout the area to stay overnight for a more thorough investigation of this intriguing region.

Opposite: A cropped 20 image panorama of the Tungnaá river meandering around Ljótipollur crater lake. DJI P4P, 24mm, ISO 100, 1/800s at f/5. Jun. Overleaf: Morning light illuminates the green hues of the southern highlands. Canon 6D, 70–200mm at 155mm, ISO 100, 1/180s at f/8. Jul. © Alex Nail.

THE ICELANDIC HIGHLANDS

Driving overview

Driving past Mount Lómagnúpur under the midnight sun. © Rory Hennessey.

With very little traffic, long stretches of open highway and a transport network comprised of a variety of road surfaces, Iceland offers a unique driving experience that takes a little getting used to. While the country enjoys a somewhat notorious reputation for severe weather conditions and subsequently wrecked vehicles, in fact most of the dangers associated with Icelandic driving can be mitigated with careful planning. What to expect & road surfaces Asphalt roads – surfaced asphalt roads predominate throughout the capital region, larger urban areas and primary transport routes. The main ring road (RTE-1) which circumnavigates the island is now fully surfaced from start to finish, making it possible to drive around the entire country without ever having to negotiate a gravel road. Gravel roads – unsurfaced gravel roads are found in the more remote and rural areas, particularly in Eastern Iceland and the Westfjords. With a few exceptions these are generally accessible to all vehicles, though watch out for the large potholes which often develop. Highland (F) roads – the Fjallið mountain roads are predominantly found in the highlands, and are denoted by an F designation – e.g. the F208. By law these roads require four wheel drive vehicles and are generally only accessible from late June until early September. The nuances of driving Iceland’s highland roads are covered extensively on page §§§.

DRIVING OVERVIEW

Speed limits Unless otherwise stated the speed limit is 50 km/h in urban areas, 80 km/h on gravel roads and 90 km/h on surfaced roads.

Distances & approximate drive times Iceland is considerably larger than many visitors realise, with long approaches to the more remote regions. The following travel times are approximations without stops, and assume good driving conditions. Journeys can take up to twice as long in winter conditions. Itinerary Reykjavík to Keflavík International Airport Reykjavík to the Blue Lagoon Around the Golden Circle Reykjavík to Akureyri in North Iceland Reykjavík to Mývatn in North Iceland Reykjavík to Vík í Mýrdal in South Iceland Reykjavík to Jökulsárlón in South East Iceland Reykjavík to Höfn in South East Iceland Reykjavík to Egilsstaðir in East Iceland Reykjavík to Ísafjörður in the Westfjords Complete circuit of the ring road

Distance 50km 50km 275km 385km 466km 187km 379km 458km 635km 452km 1332km

Drive Time 45m 50m 4h 00m 5h 00m 6h 20m 2h 30m 5h 20m 6h 30m 8h 30m 6h 00m 17h 00m

A Dacia Duster drives along the southern ring road during winter. Nikon D850, 70–200mm at 200mm, ISO 250, 1/640s at f/7.1. Mar.

Driving tips & considerations

Fuel & gas stations in Iceland

Always check the forecast at https://en.vedur.is before driving and be prepared to alter the itinerary in the event of bad weather. Do not attempt to make long journeys in adverse conditions, especially in strong winds or heavy snow.

Fuel stations can be found liberally scattered around all of the major urban regions in Iceland, with sparser service in the more remote areas. There are no facilities for filling up in the highlands and interior, making it essential to start any journey with a full tank.

• Always park facing into a strong wind to ensure the doors stay attached to the vehicle when opened. • Statistically most accidents take place when the road surface changes from tarmac to gravel. Slow down well in advance of the transition to avoid skidding. • Watch out for livestock on the road, particularly sheep. • Headlights should be on constantly and set to dipped / low-beam. • Be careful of the long summer nights and never drive when tired. • Wearing a seat belt is vital for safety on account of the soft verges which frequently cause drifting vehicles to roll.

Driving in winter Driving from October to April can be challenging and requires good winter driving experience. Studded tyres are commonplace and greatly help with traction on icy roads. Keep a careful eye on the weather forecast (https://en.vedur.is) and road conditions (www.road.is), altering travel arrangements accordingly. Ensure the vehicle is well supplied with warm layers, food, fuel, and if possible a shovel in case the worst should happen.

At the fuel station: • The pumps are self service and require payment in advance using a pin coded debit or credit card. Cash is generally not accepted, particularly out of hours. • Many of the pumps require you to reinsert your card for a receipt. • Black fuel pumps usually denote diesel; green indicates petrol. Take care as this is often the reverse of colour coding within the United States. • Icelandic fuel stations are often excellent places for basic supplies, with food, car, camping and fishing accessories for sale. There are also toilets. • Many of the stations have water waste disposal areas for camper vans. • There are often self-service car wash facilities.

Breakdown & emergencies In the event of a breakdown call the rental company to arrange rescue. For those driving personal vehicles it is best to contact www.safetravel.is or the Icelandic Motoring Association (www.fib.is) for advice. In an emergency ring 112 and await instructions.

DRIVING OVERVIEW

Driving in the highlands

Rivers fed by glacial meltwater generally get larger and deeper throughout the day as the temperature rises, making an early start advisable. When fording a river you should: • Get out of the car and look for a safe place to cross. This is usually at the widest point where the water is less deep. Rippling water often indicates rocks near the surface which is good for crossing; conversely, still water can be deep. On some of the larger rivers the best crossing point is sometimes marked with an in-situ rope. Island hopping using raised gravel banks is an effective method of crossing broad rivers. • Check the flow, riverbed and depth by getting into the water if necessary. Know where your air intake is; as a rough guideline the water should not go above the tyres. • If possible, wait for other vehicles to cross, as this gives a good indication of the depth and best line to follow. • Wind down electric windows; these might be needed to escape in an emergency.

Crossing the Bláfjallakvísl river in a modified Toyota Land Cruiser while driving the F261 from Hvanngil. This vehicle is fitted with a snorkel and 38 inch tyres, substantially raising the ground clearance and wading depth. Nikon D850, 24–70mm at 70mm, ISO 200, 1/500s at f/2.8. Aug.

Crossing unbridged rivers Fording unbridged rivers is one of the primary hazards of driving Iceland’s F roads and is understandably the cause of much trepidation for first-time visitors. Asides from the obvious safety implications of driving across a flowing river, there is also a serious financial risk. Very few insurance policies cover damage sustained while fording a river, and most hire car companies will treat a flooded engine as a vehicle write-off. In such events a bill in excess of £20,000 is not uncommon, and that is before rescue costs are factored in. The water levels of Icelandic rivers fluctuate substantially even on an hourly basis. What was a few centimetres of water can quickly become impassible after heavy rain, hot weather or geothermal activity. For this reason, any information regarding the size of a particular river crossing must be taken with circumspection. While generalisations are made throughout the following chapters, they are intended as guidelines only. Every crossing needs to be carefully evaluated; if in any doubt, return via the same route and either find an alternative approach or change the itinerary. Judging a river crossing accurately comes with experience, though as a general rule if you would not be happy crossing on foot, do not attempt to drive a vehicle through it. Start small, study the route and read the driving approach descriptions carefully before departing. A list of the more accessible locations is provided on page §§§.

DRIVING IN THE HIGHLANDS

• Enter the water slowly in first gear (nearly everyone enters too fast, creating a large wave), angling slightly downstream where possible and maintaining a steady speed slightly faster than walking pace, creating a small bow wave one metre in front of the vehicle. This lowers the water level around the engine. If turning back upstream is necessary, do so near the opposite bank where the water is shallower. • If the engine stalls restart as quickly as possible – unless water has entered the air intake, in which case it is better to tow the vehicle than attempt an engine restart that risks more permanent damage. • Take particular care on glacial rivers when the sediment-rich waters make it difficult to see hidden obstacles and the flow rate is often much faster. • After crossing a river elevate the front of the vehicle, or pump the accelerator to help clear the exhaust of water.

River crossing & driving difficulty The driving approaches within this guide have been graded according to their technical difficulty and the approximate size of the river crossings using the below scale. Note that rivers fluctuate dramatically, and it is perfectly possible for a grade 2 river to become completely impassable in any vehicle following heavy rain, uncharacteristically warm weather or geothermal activity. Grades are provided in the grey ‘how to get here’ box. 1 – Undemanding, no rivers to cross – But still remote requiring caution. 2 – Experienced, moderate rivers – Depths usually less than 40cm. 3 – Advanced, deep rivers – Depths usually less than 60cm. 4 – Very difficult, dangerous rivers – Fast currents, depths greater than 60cm.

Crossing the Námskvísl river at Landmannalaugar. Nikon D850, 24–70mm at 70mm, ISO 100, 1/125s at f/10. Jul.

DRIVING IN THE HIGHLANDS

Money, currency & cutting costs

A high standard of living, a healthy supply and demand curve, elevated tax rates and a reliance on imported goods combine to make Iceland one of the world’s most expensive countries. Despite the financial crisis of 2008, the Icelandic Króna recovered by a spectacular 40% in the following years, pushing the cost of Icelandic living to 50% above the European average. Today some careful budgeting is necessary to ensure an affordable and enjoyable trip.

A cashless society Iceland is nearly a cashless society and almost everything can be purchased with a credit or debit card, no matter how small the value. For those that feel more comfortable carrying a little physical currency, there are numerous ATMs found throughout the larger towns.

Approximate cost of everyday items Economic sites like www.numbeo.com or www.expatistan.com are excellent for comparing the estimated living costs between countries. The list below details the approximate price of everyday items in Iceland. Item Loaf of white bread (500g) Fresh milk (1 litre) Eggs (regular) (12) Apples (1kg) Bananas (1kg) Tomatoes (1kg) Chicken fillets (1kg) Beef round (1kg) Domestic beer (0.5 litre bottle) Bottle of wine (mid-range) Mid-range meal out (for two) Tank of diesel (50 litres) Camping in a tent (for one) Mid-range hotel (for two) Average car rental (per day)

ISK (kr) 457.46 kr 179.74 kr 718.72 kr 291.75 kr 251.50 kr 557.00 kr 1931.69 kr 3631.67 kr 414.96 kr 2600.00 kr 17,000.00 kr 11,290.00 kr 1750.00 kr 21,105.00 kr 22,000.00 kr

GBP (£) £2.70 £1.06 £4.25 £1.72 £1.49 £3.29 £11.42 £21.47 £2.45 £15.37 £100.48 £66.73 £10.34 £124.74 £130.03

Euro (€) €3.00 €1.17 €4.69 €1.90 €1.64 €3.64 €12.61 €23.71 €2.71 €16.97 €111.58 €74.10 €11.51 €138.52 €144.40

USD ($) $3.65 $1.43 $5.73 $2.33 $2.00 $4.44 $15.39 $28.94 $3.31 $20.72 $135.48 $89.97 $13.95 $168.19 $175.33

Tipping in Iceland With already high prices, effective labour unions and good salaries, tipping in Iceland is not customary. Many restaurants add a gratuity or service charge to the bill as standard. However as with all countries, tipping for exceptional service is always appreciated. The Sólfari Sun Voyager sculpture under the midnight sun.

MONEY, CURRENCY & CUTTING COSTS

Tips for cutting costs While a visit to Iceland is always going to be expensive, there are a number of ways to help reduce the potential cost of a trip: • Book accommodation well in advance, keeping an eye out for special offers. • Research flights carefully: there are now more low-cost airlines visiting Iceland than ever before. However, be mindful that some premium airlines can actually work out cheaper once baggage has been factored in. • Travelling in a group is very economical. Car rental costs can be divided and large apartments with shared facilities often work out more cost-effective than smaller ones. • Research rental car insurance carefully and consider taking out third party cover to avoid the extravagant over-the-counter premiums. • Many of the rental agencies offer fuel savings cards for a particular petrol station. • For those planning to make use of Iceland’s extensive hostel network, consider signing up to Hostel International at www.hihostels.com, as they often offer discounts to members. Remember to bring your own sleeping bag, or liner as many of the huts charge for the use of bed linen. • Consider buying a camping card for longer trips or if travelling as part of a larger group. These can be purchased at www.utilegukortid.is • Try to avoid eating in restaurants and self-cater instead. Camping gas is available at most outdoor shops and at many of the petrol stations. • Bring a water bottle that can be refilled from the tap or mountain streams (providing they are not glacial); buying bottled water is both expensive and unnecessary. • The cheapest supermarkets are Bónus, Nettó and Krónan. Keep an eye on the prices as some items you would expect to be expensive can be surprisingly cheap and vice versa. • Space permitting, it is worth bringing some dried food with you. • Avoid eating, drinking or buying souvenirs in the more popular areas. • Alcohol in Iceland is exceptionally expensive, with the state tax on spirits currently set at a staggering 80%. Taking advantage of the duty free stores prior to flying is highly recommended. Once in Iceland many of the bars in Reykjavík offer a happy hour discount between 4pm and 8pm. However, do make the most of the trip and invest in the local economy. A super jeep excursion into the remote highlands with an experienced local guide is a potentially priceless experience that is more than worth the outlay.

Nikon D810, 24–70mm at 27mm, ISO 64, 15s at f/8, tripod, BP X4 6-stop CPL. Jul.

MONEY, CURRENCY & CUTTING COSTS

The seasons of Iceland

Spring – April & May

Summer – June, July & August

As the returning sun rises higher into the sky once again, spring in Iceland is heralded by the return of the golden plover from their wintering grounds in mainland Europe. Said to sing away the snow, the distinctive call of this small ground-nesting bird can usually be heard from late March until autumn. As the frozen ground thaws, the rivers swell, transforming the babbling brooks of winter into raging torrents of glacial meltwater once again. Iceland’s already impressive waterfalls are undoubtedly at their most spectacular during spring, and a visit to Skógafoss during April or May is not to be missed.

Characterised by extremely long days, the Icelandic summer sees more visitors that any other season, as travellers come to view the country’s dramatic landscapes under the midnight sun. The perpetual light is both insomnia-inducing and perfect for exploring around the clock. For photographers it is often worth working through the night, taking advantage of the low sun and best light, then snatching some sleep with an eye mask during the day. Sunrises and sunsets can last for several hours and a trip to Grímsey Island at solstice is highly recommended; watching the sun skim the sea without ever sinking below the horizon is a magical experience that is not seen in many parts of the world.

From a visitor’s perspective Iceland is quiet at this time of year, making accommodation cheaper and easier to find. Campsites generally open from early April and many of the more specialised tours start up once again. Snow still characterises many of the landscapes, contrasting pleasingly with the vibrant flora which is beginning to bloom and creating quintessential spring scenes. During early April it is still possible to spot the northern lights, and while the days are long, photographing sunrise and sunset is still a relatively civilised affair.

This is the best time of year for birdwatching enthusiasts with puffins, arctic terns, skua, northern gannets, fulmars, kittiwakes and a whole host of waders found in abundance. July is hatching time for many of the species, including the much-coveted Atlantic puffin. The chicks, often referred to as pufflings, can be found wandering the urban areas of the Westman Islands by August. Confused by the city lights the errant little ones are collected by a locally organised puffin patrol and returned to the sea once they are ready.

Accessibility varies annually depending on the previous winter’s severity and is hard to predict. The ring road is usually clear of snow and in a good driving condition, though many of the smaller roads will still be closed, particularly in the north and more mountainous areas. Temperatures are similarly difficult to predict and visitors should pack accordingly, with an average range between 0°C and 10°C.

For landscape photographers the invasive Nootka lupine flowers through June and July, blanketing much of the country in a beautiful sea of vibrant purple that is unfailingly photogenic. Midsummer also marks the beginning of the short highland season, as the country’s infamous Fjallið mountain roads finally clear of snow, allowing access to the enigmatic interior for eight to ten weeks.

THE SEASONS OF ICELAND

Autumn – September & October

Winter – November, December, January, February & March

For photographers autumn is always one of the most picturesque seasons, and Iceland is no exception. From early September the bright green vegetation slowly transforms into a motley patchwork of rich red, orange and yellow hues. Ásbyrgi, Hraunfossar, Þingvellir and Þórsmörk all look particularly spectacular at this time of year, the autumnal tones contrasting beautifully with the dark volcanic bedrock. September and October are also perfect foraging months, with crowberries, bilberries, wild strawberries and over 30 different species of mushroom found nestled amongst the vibrant foliage.

Blanketed in a white carpet that suppresses both sound and colour, the landscapes of winter epitomise the quintessential Icelandic stereotype conjured by the country’s etymology. The naturally monochromatic scenes of bright snow and black basalt create a striking juxtaposition of light and dark that is wonderfully aesthetic. Previously rarely frequented on account of the often inhospitable conditions, winter tourism has seen a recent surge in popularity following advances in both infrastructure and accessibility, making it Iceland’s second most popular season.

September marks the start of the annual sheep round-up, or Réttir, a major cultural event in the Icelandic social calendar. Local farmers invite friends and family to help gather the scattered livestock and bring them inside for the winter. Visitors can volunteer to help and there are numerous parties, gatherings and celebrations held each weekend throughout the festival. Meanwhile in Reykjavík, Oktoberfest is somewhat confusingly celebrated in September, and the Imagine Peace Tower is lit on Viðey Island.

The incessant darkness can feel a little oppressive during November, December and January, though on the plus side you can get up at 9am, have a leisurely breakfast and still be in time to watch the sun rise. Unsurprisingly this is also the best time of year to watch the northern lights, the long hours of darkness giving ample time to photograph the aurora should any activity occur. Winter is also perfect for exploring the subglacial ice caves which form each year, the cold climate allowing the Gaudí-reminiscent caverns to be explored safely.

Generally speaking the climate is still surprisingly mild, with an average temperature of between 7°C and 10°C. The rapid reduction in daylight means the northern lights can be seen once again, an exciting prospect if the highlands can still be accessed safely. Much like spring this is low season, with cheaper prices, fewer visitors and a much quieter ambiance. With the exception of the interior, accessibility is generally still good, with the first snowfall usually beginning towards the end of autumn.

Snowfall is usually heaviest during December and January, especially in the north. Driving conditions are often difficult and many of the smaller roads and more remote locations will be inaccessible throughout much of the winter. It is normally possible to drive around the ring road, though sections in the east do close occasionally and visitors should be flexible with their itineraries. It is generally best to avoid the Westfjords as many of the roads are impassable without specialist vehicles and there is often a significant avalanche risk.

THE SEASONS OF ICELAND

When to visit the highlands

Predominantly situated above 500m, the considerable elevation of Iceland’s highlands means snow persists here late into the year. Consequently the intricate network of Fjallið mountain roads that provide access to the interior are some of the last to open. This makes the highland season incredibly short, generally beginning in late June and continuing until mid-September, when the first snows once again seal off this difficult to access region.

Road opening dates The exact dates that the highlands can be accessed vary depending on the desired destinations location, elevation and, most importantly, the previous winter’s severity. Compiled by the Vegagerðin Icelandic Road Association, the following table provides an overview of the approximate dates visitors can expect the highland roads to open. The current road conditions can also be checked at www.road.is Earliest Latest Average Opening Opening Opening F206 – Lakagígar 14/06 09/07 24/06 F208 – Fjallabaksleið nyrðri Sigalda – Landmannalaugar 24/05 26/06 12/06 Laugar – Eldgjá 14/06 17/07 29/06 Eldgjá – Skaftártunga 05/06 26/06 15/06 F210 – Fjallabaksleið syðri Keldur – Hvanngil 21/06 17/07 05/07 Hvanngil – Skaftártunga 28/06 23/07 07/07 F225 – Landmannaleið 28/05 03/07 23/06 F249 – Þórsmerkurvegur 24/05 01/07 16/06 F261 – Emstruleið 21/06 10/07 03/07 (F)35 – Kjölur Gullfoss – Hveravellir 24/06 01/07 12/06 Hveravellir – Blönduvirkjun 22/05 25/06 07/06 F26 – Sprengisandsleið 20/06 10/07 29/06 F88 – Öskjuleið 14/06 26/06 19/06 F894 – Öskjuvatnsvegur 14/06 24/07 24/06 F902 – Kverkfjalaleið 14/06 26/06 18/06 F905 – Arnardalsleið 11/06 26/06 17/06 F910 – Austurleið 11/06 25/06 17/06

Snow often perseveres year round in the more sheltered areas, such as these drainage channels seen along the F225. Nikon D850, 70–200mm at 200mm, ISO 100, 1/200s at f/8. Aug.

Looking south towards Stórkonufell between the Hvanngil and Emstrur huts on the Laugavegur trail. Canon 6D, 70–200mm at 90mm, ISO 100, 1/50s at f/11. Jul. © Alex Nail.

WHEN TO VISIT THE HIGHLANDS

Sun graph for the Reykjavik area 22 20 18

time

Summer solstice 21st June longest daylight hours 21.08 hrs

14 12

Winter solstice 21st December shortest daylight hours 4.07 hrs

10 source: timeanddate.com

08 06 04 02 00 Jan

Feb

Mar

Apr

May

Jun

July

Aug

Sep

Oct

Nov

Dec

Solar Noon: When the sun reaches its highest point for the day. Night

Astronomical Twilight

Nautical Twilight

Civil Twilight

Daylight

Solar Midnight: The opposite of Solar Noon when the sun is at its lowest point and night is equidistant from dusk and dawn.

Monthly breakdown & characteristics

Daylight hours

June – with lots of snow still on the ground, a June highlands trip is very much reliant on a lean winter. Prospective visitors should try and book spontaneously at the last minute once the current conditions can be evaluated. Locations on the periphery such as Þakgil or Þórsmörk are more likely to be accessible, though many of the walking routes will require crampons and possibly an ice axe for safety.

Situated between 64° and 66° north, the amount of daylight oscillates wildly in Iceland, with dark winters and perpetually bright summers, as demonstrated by the above graph. This transition happens quickly, with an additional 10 minutes of light added every day up to solstice, and vice versa as the nights draw in. Subsequently highland days are long, with late sunsets and very early sunrises. Photographers may wish to reverse their sleeping patterns, resting with the aid of an eye mask during the day and then exploring through the night when the light is at its best.

July & August – optimum conditions are usually found from mid-July until mid-August, a period that unsurprisingly directly correlates with peak season in the highlands. There is often still a good amount of snow present during July, though this has largely abated by August. The more popular mountain huts should be booked well in advance. September – this can be a stunning and quiet time of year to visit, though it is essential to keep an eye on the weather forecast to avoid getting stuck when the first winter snows arrive towards the middle of the month. Winter – accessing the highlands in winter requires specialist equipment. While several companies offer guided trips using snowmobiles, there is little incentive from a purely photographic perspective as many of the most interesting features are buried.

Aurora borealis / northern lights A chance of glimpsing the magical light displays of the elusive aurora borealis is understandably one of the major attractions for those visiting Iceland. Only visible with suitably dark skies, the lights can be seen from late August until early April. Unfortunately this correlates poorly with the prime highland season, making late August and early September the only time of year that the northern lights can be photographed from the interior without specialist equipment. Photographing the aurora borealis is covered extensively on page §§§, with technical information, tips and settings.

WHEN TO VISIT THE HIGHLANDS

Icelandic natural history & geomorphology

Though the exact date is the source of much academic debate, it is believed Iceland was thrust out of the North Atlantic during the early Miocene Epoch approximately 20 million years ago, making it one of the youngest landmasses on the planet. Sat directly atop its synonymous mantle plume and straddling the Mid-Atlantic Ridge between Europe and North America, Iceland is growing at an average rate of 5cm per year and is quite literally an island in the making. On average, the country experiences a significant eruption from one of its 30 currently active volcanic systems every five years. Of these, Grímsvötn, Hekla and Katla are the most prolific; the former has erupted a staggering 65 times over the last millennium. Other notable events include the so-called Skaftá fires which followed the phreatomagmatic explosions along the Lakagígar fissure in 1783, an eruption still widely regarded as the most devastating in written history. In April 2010 ash ejected from Eyjafjallajökull infamously caused havoc with both European air traffic and news anchors attempting to pronounce the peak. This was followed by the eruptions of Grímsvötn in May 2011, Bárðarbunga in 20142015, and then most recently Geldingadalir near Fagradalsfjall in 2021, a low intensity volcanic event on the Reykjanes peninsula.

This volcanic foundation is then sculpted by the combined abrasive efforts of both water and wind, two Icelandic elements found in abundance. The vast glaciers of the last ice age played a particularly significant role, carving out broad U shaped valleys and extensive fjord systems. Thick ice also caused isostatic depression as the immense weight contained within the glaciers quite literally squashed the underlying land. Similarly the all-encompassing ice prevented the magma from escaping during subglacial eruptions, creating the distinctive flat topped mountains seen in the present-day landscapes. Today 11% of Iceland is permanently covered in ice, with 269 named glaciers and five primary ice caps. Of these the Vatnajökull is by far the most extensive, blanketing a 7500km2 area in ice up to a kilometre thick and holding an impressive 3000 km3 of water, making it the largest glacier mass in Europe. Many of the retreating outlet glaciers leave picturesque lagoons in their wake, the most famous example of which is Jökulsárlón, Iceland’s deepest body of water and the only place in the country where you can reliably see icebergs.

So prevalent is the volcanic activity in Iceland that over the past 500 years the country’s eruptions have accounted for one third of the world’s total lava output. Consequently it comes as no surprise that the geological morphology is primarily comprised of igneous rock, with basalt predominating. This dark rock defines many of the region’s quintessential landscapes, creating the layered mountains so characteristic of Iceland’s upland topography. Each of the layers representing a significant volcanic event are often separated by distinctive red banding, caused by the oxidation of iron-rich minerals in the clay soil between the basalt strata. Hengifossárgljúfur canyon in East Iceland is the perfect example of this striking phenomena, the ferrous tones contrasting wonderfully with the black bedrock.

This profusion of sheet ice, coupled with highly permeable bedrock and frequent precipitation, makes for an extensive river network that plays a key role in shaping Iceland’s landscapes. Powerful channels like the Þjórsá have a flow rate in excess of 370 m³/s, transporting alluvial material to the lowlands, often resulting in huge outwash plains comprised of glacial sediment. Steep valleys, gullies and canyons are commonplace; some like Fjaðrárgljúfur in the south have been slowly carved out by the persistent trickle of water over millennia, while others such as Jökulsárgljúfur were created in a single catastrophic flooding event or jökulhlaup. Waterfalls are indicative of such a young landscape and Iceland has them in abundance. Few places on the planet have such a high concentration of spectacular falls, with each twist in the river revealing a new and ever more impressive cascade. While Dettifoss is the largest, Skógafoss, Aldeyjarfoss and Háifoss are amongst the most aesthetic.

Formed by the uniform cooling of subsurface lava, hexagonal or columnar jointed basalt is also prevalent throughout the country. Understandably popular amongst photographers for its geometric composition, these beautiful rock formations have provided the architectural inspiration for structures like Hallgrímskirkja church, and can be found adorning many of the island’s waterfalls and coastal areas. By contrast, fast cooling surface lava produces amorphous rock formations, such as the Laugahraun obsidian lava field, or the pumice strewn slopes surrounding Askja in the northern highlands.

A lack of vegetation cover makes the shallow Andosol and Vitrisol soils of Iceland particularly susceptible to wind erosion, a problem that has been exacerbated by a trend of deforestation since human settlement. Today 42% of the land surface can be classified as desert, a statistic that Icelandic environmentalists are attempting to mitigate through extensive land management schemes. A number of foreign species such as the Nootka lupine have been imported in an attempt to halt wind induced topsoil erosion, and significant efforts have been made to restore Iceland’s native birch woodland.

ICELANDIC NATURAL HISTORY & GEOMORPHOLOGY

Top: The Fagradalsfjall eruption which began on 19 March 2021. © Ása Steinarsdóttir. Above: The Bárðarbunga eruptions of 2014 and 2015 were concentrated around Holuhraun, creating a new lava field covering 85 km². © Ruedi Häberli. Overleaf: An abstract composition using the many drainage channels that dot the volcanic slopes of Kerlingarfjöll. Nikon D850, 70–200mm at 100mm, ISO 100, 1/125s at f/8. Aug.

ICELANDIC NATURAL HISTORY & GEOMORPHOLOGY

CHAPTER 1

Southern Highlands (Hálendið) Encircled by five of Iceland’s largest ice caps and sculpted by some of the country’s most active volcanoes, the southern highlands are a veritable photographer’s paradise. Two ancient trade routes, the Kjölur and Sprengisandsleið, cut between the mighty glaciers characterising the region’s north. The former serves as a perfect introduction to the nuances of highland driving while also providing access to the north via two equally impressive geothermal fields. Further south, the F208 negotiates the ambitious Þjórsá-Tungnaá hydroelectric scheme before entering Fjallabak, a nature reserve best known for its multicoloured rhyolite mountains surrounding Landmannalaugar. The world renowned Laugavegur trail starts here, a 56km multi-day walking route that strikes south-west through Hrafntinnusker, Álftavatn and Emstrur to reach Þórsmörk. Easily approached using public transport, the trail is perfect for photographers who wish to access some of the region’s remotest areas on foot, negating the need for expensive off-road vehicles. To the east, the Lakagígar volcanic fissure is as geologically fascinating as it is beautiful, the 26km long crater row providing a haunting reminder of one of the most deadly and destructive eruptions in living memory.

Principle towns / places to stay Gateway to the highlands

• Selfoss – while somewhat utilitarian in character, Selfoss is perfectly placed for accessing many of the locations within this chapter, with a good range of amenities. • Vík í Mýrdal – situated under Mýrdalsjökull, Vík provides easy access to Þakgil and the F208 for those wishing to approach Landmannalaugar along the more difficult southern approach. There is a large supermarket and campsite in the town centre. • Kirkjubæjarklaustur – this modest-sized town has a small supermarket, campsite and petrol station, making it a good base for exploring Lakagígar and the F208.

In the highlands Accommodation is basic, usually dorm-style mountain huts with nearby camping facilities. The lodging options for specific locations are covered in more detail on the relevant page. • Kerlingarfjöll – www.kerlingarfjoll.is • Landmannalaugar – www.fi.is • Hólaskjól – www.eldgja.is • Langidalur – www.fi.is • Þakgil – www.thakgil.is

•H veravellir – www.hveravellir.is • Landmannahellir – www.landmannahellir.is • Húsadalur – www.volcanotrails.com • Básar – www.utivist.is • L akagígar – Email – klaustur@vjp.is

CHAPTER 01 – SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS – INTRODUCTION

Driving conditions, logistics & access There is a wide variety of driving conditions found throughout the southern highlands and visitors should choose an itinerary suitable for both their vehicle and driving experience. The Kjölur Route, Þakgil and northern section of the F208 to Landmannalaugar are perfect for those exploring Iceland’s interior for the first time, as there is little in the way of technical driving and no rivers to ford. By contrast the approaches to the southern portion of the F208, Fjallabaksleið Syðri, Þórsmörk and Lakagígar are difficult, with deep river crossings that require extensive off-road driving experience and a suitably equipped vehicle. The intricacies of driving Iceland’s mountain roads are covered in more detail on page §§§.

When to visit Situated on the outer periphery of the highlands, Þakgil and Þórsmörk can generally be accessed from mid-June until late September, while the more central locations often need an extra few weeks for the snow to clear, usually from late June until mid-September. Note that the exact dates vary annually depending on the previous winter’s severity; typical road opening dates can be found on page §§§.

00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00

Úlfsvatn

Hundavötn

ísla

Þjó rsá rjö ku ll

ár

Þjórsárlón

Hreysislón

247

FEB N

Bjarnarey

Suðurey

Surtsey

aá

l k ul

gn Tu n

Elliðaey

Heimaey

NORTH ATLANTIC OCEAN

gí ka

35 F2

Hólmsárlón Álftavötn 13 Strútur 14 F210 12 Mælifell Axlafoss

1 Prestbakki

Kirkjubæjarklaustur

Mý

Katla

Höfðabrekkujökull

212 211

214 1 218

Eldva

204

16 Þakgil

Dyrhólaey

204

209

1918 eruption

222

219 Skeiðflötur

208

F23

1512m

221

210 Gröf

s al

Skógar

Eyvindarhólar

Álsey

Þórsmörk

2010 eruption

243 Þridrangar

DEC JAN

DEC JAN N

SUNSET SUNRISE

Eyjafjallajökull

245

Hólaskjól

246 Ásólfsskáli

Blágil

215

Vík

Langholt

fljó

SEP MAR OCT

MAR SEP OCT FEB

254

F24

1666m

Vatnajökull National Park & UNESCO World Heritage Site

ða Kú

APR AUG

APR

253

Vestmannaeyjar

Tungnaá rjök ull

tn va ris

251

Kross

Torfajökull

Emstrur

249

248 Stóridalur

G AU

Hvanngil

Hlíðarendi 261

250

252 MA Y

10km

sá Þjó r 6 F2

Breiðabólsstaður

1 255 Akurey Voðmúlastaðir

11 Eldgjá

JUN JU L

Blesárjökull

261

F20

F21

JUN UL YJ MA

262

252 252

Álftavatn Tindfjallajökull

Hvolsvöllur

Þykkvibær

F210 Keldur

833m 776m

621m

F208

Landmannalaugar

Hrafntinnusker

268

267 266

699m

Hella

Gaulverjabær

Laugavegur 9

271 Arbær 264

Lakagígar 17

275

F22

itá Hv

308

Marteinstunga

282

268

272

305

288

812m

Landmannalaugar 8

Hekla 1491m

F26

302

kul

312

309

ujö

ftá

311

3 Rauðfoss

268

ngá

Sið

1783 eruption

286 281 26

Skarð

Ra tri-

286

284

Hraungerði Kalfholt

314

Stokkseyri

Hagi

Langisjór

10 Langisjór

Veiðivötn

6 Hnausapollur 7 Frostastaðavatn

Landmannahellir

2000 eruption

F22 26

Stórinúpur

Breiðbakur 1028m

Ska

310

304 303

318

Selfoss

324

325

Olafsvellir

374

375

Laugarás

353

Hveragerði

354

4 Sigöldufoss Litlisjór 5 Sigöldugljúfur

Hrauneyjar

327

F208

332

344 345 Hruni Skálholt 329 340 341 32 Þjó 30 Flúðir Hrepphólar rsá 31

F228

rjö

ftá

a Sk

Langisjór

359

Búrfell 351

Reykholt

Mosfell

366 364 Torfastaðir 37

350

356

355

365

Þó

Miðdalur

Jökulheimar

jö

Laugarvatn

349 358

F208

F337

F33 35

361

Kjalvotn

Gullfoss

Geysir

ísl

l Ka

Versalir

Skjaldbreiður 1060m

F3 Sandvatn 38

Hlöðufell 1188m

Rjúpnafell 864m

F33

Hvalvatn

Úlfljótsvatn

rjö ldu

Bláfell 1204m

F338

Þingvallavatn 36

Kö

Syrðri-Háganga 1284m

Reyðarvatn

360

s la

Hágöngulón

Kvíslavatn

kví

F336

Þórisjökull

Nyrðri-Háganga 1278m

Arbudir

Þj

Kerlingarfjöll 1477m

Hvitárvatn

ldi d

alu

1 Kerlingarfjöll

550

52 Fitjar F508

n Tu

Nýidalur

ull

jök

lls

a gn

Lundur

Fjórðun

ök

Geitlandsjökull

Blautukvislarjökull

n L a

F34

Baldheiði 771m

úl

551 Ok

Solkatla 1010m

550

Kjölu r

l l

Húsafell

517

gakvísl

Hrútfell 1396m

518

Stóriás

Reykholt 519

Þristapajökull

Gilsbakki 523

Kjalfell 1008m

ull ldj Ba

Kj ar rá

523

Hofsjökull

2 Hveravellir

Eiriksjökull

578

523 Siðumúli 518

F73

ök

Kleppavatn

Norðtunga

6 Fjórðungsvatn

Hólmavatn

Réttarvatn Arnarvatn litla

F752

Nor ður á

Flóavatn

F734

Þykkvabæjarklaustur

764

Blönduós Reynistaður

Þingeyrar

Vesturhópshólar Hóp

724

731 Auðkúla

726

Breiðabólstaður

Undirfell

722 35

714

r Vesta

752

i-J ök

uls i-Jök

sá

F752

578

Áfangi

F734

Arnarvatn stóra

Flóavatn

Réttarvatn

Hundavötn

Arnarvatn litla

F73

ull

Úlfsvatn

ldj

ök

7 F5

Hofsjökull

2 Hveravellir

ll ku rjö

1 Kerlingarfjöll

Kerlingarfjöll 1477m

Hvitárvatn

F336

Þórisjökull

35 Kvíslavatn

á rs Þjó APR AUG

10km 26

tn va

SUNSET SUNRISE 0

MAR SEP OCT FEB DEC JAN N

DEC JAN

3 F337

F33

FEB

356

SEP MAR OCT

355

APR

366

349 358

G AU

364

Miðdalur

Gullfoss 35

Kjalvötn

vís

ld Ka

MA Y

ris

F33 35

Geysir

JUN JU L

JUN UL YJ MA

Sandvatn

35 37

Bláfell 1204m

Þó

Hagavant

Viewed on a map it is easy to see why the Kjölur Route was such an important trade route between north and south.

Nýifoss

F338

ök

Blautukvislarjökull

Gýgjarfoss

F34

n L a

Baldheiði 771m

úl

Solkatla 1010m

Þjó

Hrútfell 1396m

550

rsá

l l

Kjalfell 1008m

Þristapajökull

Kjölu

Eiriksjökull

578

Hlöðufell 1188m

SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS – F35 – THE KJÖLUR ROUTE

sá

734

F338

Abær

Goðdalir

Blöndulón

Geitlandsjökull

01 Kerlingarfjöll mountains �� 00 02 Hveravellir hot springs �� 00

758

734

706

755

756

551

F35 – THE KJÖLUR ROUTE

753 Miklibær 752 Reykir 754 1 Silfrastaðir Mælifell

da l

Víðmýri

759

tn Va

There is accommodation at both locations and staying at least one night is recommended. Be aware that there are no fuel stations found along the Kjölur Route, making it essential to start with a full tank.

734

Friðmundarvötn

Núpsá

While the landscapes are fascinating throughout, the main photographic interest is found by making short detours to the Kerlingarfjöll Mountains and Hveravellir Hot Springs. Both are geothermally active, boasting an impressive array of bubbling mud pools and hissing fumaroles that seem to have been created with the visiting photographer in mind.

733

Bergstaðir

715

Bakki

751

727

722

814

Myrkárjökull

Flugumýri

Varmahlíð

Svinavatn

722

714

Still largely designated the F35 despite recently losing its highland road status, RTE-35 follows this historic 170km route between Gullfoss waterfall and the Blöndulón valley. The gravel road now provides one of the most accessible routes through the interior, with no unbridged rivers to cross, making the Kjölur Route perfect for visitors coming to experience Iceland’s highlands for the first time.

Glaumbær

721

717 711

Holtstaðir

725

Barkárdalsjökull

762

a Bland

Carving a direct line through the western interior of Iceland, the Kjölur Route crosses the barren Kjölur plateau between the Langjökull and Hofsjökull ice caps. Sometimes referred to as the Kjalvegur road, this ancient corridor through the heart of Iceland has long been used by Icelanders as an essential trade route between north and south.

Tungnahryggsjökull

No rð ur á

sne

711

Va t n

712

Húnafjörður

F35 – THE KJÖLUR ROUTE INTRODUCTION

Tjörn

768

Ríp

Driving the F347 from Kerlingarfjöll back towards the F35, with beautiful views of Hrútfell in the evening light. Nikon D810, 80–400mm at 80mm, ISO 400, 1/200s at f/5. Aug. © Geraldine Westrupp / WPH.

SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS – F35 – THE KJÖLUR ROUTE INTRODUCTION

02 F35 – HVERAVELLIR HOT SPRINGS

Famously the home of Icelandic outlaw FjallaEyvindur Jónsson and his wife Halla Jónsdóttir in the 18th century, Hveravellir is a geothermal oasis found directly in the centre of Kjölur. These ‘hot spring fields’ are situated on the northern periphery of Kjalhraun, a vast lava field covering 180km2 and formed nearly eight millennia ago. Declared a protected site in 1960, the hot springs at Hveravellir are unusually high in silica content, resulting in some beautifully intricate geothermal formations of polished white geyserite. From a photographer’s perspective the hot springs are much smaller and less dramatically backdropped than those found at nearby Kerlingarfjöll. They are however more easily accessed, generally experience better weather, and are ideally suited to golden hour photography due to their clear view of the horizon. There is also a lodge with both shared and private accommodation, a mountain café, campsite and naturally heated bathing pool found on site, making Hveravellir a perfect stopover point while driving the Kjölur Route. For more information and bookings visit www.hveravellir.is

What to shoot and viewpoints The hot springs are found 200m south-west of the parking area and are clearly visible. A number of paths then explore the huge Kjalhraun lava field to the south. For photographers, the main interest is found along the geothermal fields. The heated bathing pool is free for everyone to use; just be aware there are no changing rooms.

Viewpoint 1 – hot springs Though small in scale, Hveravellir’s hot springs are wonderfully photogenic. Take care to stay on the marked trails both for safety and to preserve this delicate environment. The geothermal formations each have specific names: Öskurhólshver (the ‘Roaring Mound’), Gamli Fagrihver (the ‘Old Lovely’) and Bláihver (the ‘Blue’) are just some of the characters to be found here. It is worth spending some time exploring the different attributes of each, giving careful thought to potential compositions before setting to work with the camera. Many of the pools suit long exposures, adding a surreal feel to the rising mist, while some of the more energetic mud pools benefit from a faster shutter speed to freeze the bubbling earth. Pay particular attention to the wonderful geyserite patterns surrounding many of the features. It is often worth cropping closer or taking a lower perspective, drawing the eye along the vibrant mineral veins towards the focal point.

Viewpoint 2 – Kjalhraun lava field While difficult to photograph, Kjalhraun is fascinating both geologically and culturally. There are three marked trails (green, red and orange) that make progressively longer hikes through the lava field. The green trail makes a 3km loop past the Eyvindarrétt sheep pen before arriving at Eyvindarhellir, the home of Icelandic outlaws Fjalla-Eyvindur and Halla Jónsdóttir. Red leads south for 6km to reach Strýtur, the volcano responsible for the Kjalhraun lava field. There is a distinctive volcanic plug in the vast crater’s centre which makes for an eye-catching focal point. Finally the orange route makes a 21km circuit through the Þjófadalir valley before ascending Rauðkollur, with far-reaching views over the Kjölur plateau towards the Langjökull and Hofsjökull glaciers.

How to get here Please read the highland driving information found on page §§§ before planning a visit to this region, taking care to check the current road conditions at www.road.is before departing. There is no best direction to drive the Kjölur Route and Hveravellir can be approached from Gullfoss in the south, or Blönduós to the north. Be wary of satnav drive times which are often hopelessly optimistic on the F35, particularly when the road has not been recently graded. The turn-off onto the F735 leading to Hveravellir is found 27km north of Kerlingarfjöll and 34km south of Blöndulón reservoir. Hveravellir is well signed from the junction. Follow the F735 for 2km until the lodge and car park come into view on the left. Parking lat/long: 64.86615, -19.55386 What3words: ///deducing.chunks.irrigation Accessible: Mid-June–Mid-September Difficulty / Car: 1 / class A* Map: Island Serkort 03 Kjölur * While the Kjölur Route can be driven in a 2WD vehicle it is not recommended, and will in all likelihood damage the vehicle.

Accessibility Approach to main viewpoint: 2 minutes, 200m, 0m of ascent. Hveravellir is exceptionally accessible with a good boardwalk network that leads around the hot springs. There are also camping grounds, a café, toilets and accommodation nearby.

Best time of year/day The easy access and close proximity of the viewpoints means Hveravellir can be visited as soon as the Kjölur Route opens. This is normally in mid- to late June, although the exact dates vary depending on previous winter’s snowfall. Hveravellir definitely benefits from soft light and golden hour colours to add atmosphere and mystery to the otherwise stark landscape. Fortunately the nearby accommodation and campsite make the logistics of photographing under the midnight sun a slightly more civilised prospect than elsewhere in the country.

Opposite top: Blue hour at Hveravellir. Canon 6D, 16–35mm at 16mm, ISO 100, 1/5s at f/8, tripod. Aug. © Sven Broeckx. Bottom left: The normally blue pool of Bláhver turning a wonderful orange at sunset. Canon 6D, 16–35mm at 16mm, ISO 100, 0.4s at f/16, tripod. Aug. © Sven Broeckx. Right: The eye. Nikon D850, 24–70mm at 70mm, ISO 100, 1/100s at f/10. Jul.

SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS – F35 – HVERAVELLIR HOT SPRINGS

Using a shallow depth of field to isolate the eyes of an arctic fox as it crosses the volcanic ground. Nikon D810, 300mm, ISO 320, 1/1000s at f/2.8. Sep.

SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS – F208

08 F208 – L ANDMANNALAUGAR MOUNTAINS Viewpoint 1 – Suðurnámur hike 5 hours, 9km, 450m of ascent / descent. This hike follows the long Suðurnámur ridge north of the Námskvísl river, with excellent views over Bláhnúkur, the Laugahraun lava field, and Brennisteinsalda volcano. The initial ascent is a perfect sunrise location during late summer, the high elevation offering a magnificent perspective over Norðurbarmur and the braided Jökulgilskvísl river channels. From the campsite walk north along the F224, retracing the driving approach for 600m before turning left onto a mountain path signposted towards Suðurnámur. Follow the marked trail uphill for 20 minutes to reach the ridge proper and spectacular views looking east. The path then turns west, undulating and eventually ascending Suðurnámur, with far-reaching vistas in all directions from the 882m high peak. To continue, keep following the path west and then south, descending steeply to reach the cottongrass meadows at Vondugiljaaurar. The initial section of the Laugahraun hike can then be followed back to the campsite at Landmannalaugar.

Viewpoint 2 – Laugahraun hike 2 hours, 4.5km, 150m of ascent / descent. The easiest of the walking circuits explores the Laugahraun lava field and is ideal for a evening stroll. From the visitor centre take the marked path west, following signposting for the Laugavegur trail. After a brief ascent the large path flattens out, traversing through the obsidian rock formations. Photographically the best interest is found at the western edge of the lava fields, where several raised viewpoints look out over the Vondugiljaaurar meadows. A small stream makes for an excellent leading line to the colourful mountains beyond. The path then turns went, ascending to the smoking hot springs directly under Brennisteinsalda, the slopes of the still active volcano alight with more eye-catching hues. To return, turn back east, entering into the lava field once again as the trail follows the beautiful Grænagil gorge back to the campsite. An 8 image panorama taken from the initial ascent of Suðurnámur. Nikon D850, 24–70mm at 24mm, ISO 100, 1/125s at f/6.3. Sep.

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09 LAUGAVEGUR & FIMMVÖRÐUHÁLS HIKING TRAILS

Day 1 – Landmannalaugar to Hrafntinnusker 4–5 hours, 12km, 500m of ascent, 100m of descent. Winding through the heart of the Landmannalaugar mountains, the Laugavegur trail gets off to an impressive start with lots of good photographic interest throughout. For those wishing to explore this area in greater detail before departing, Landmannalaugar is covered extensively on page §§§. From the campsite at Landmannalaugar head west, passing behind the visitor centre and following good signposting towards Hrafntinnusker and the Laugavegur trail. Ascend a short but steep incline to enter into the Laugahraun lava field. After 1km, just as the path turns left, there is a good viewpoint overlooking the Vondugiljaaurar meadows, with some beautiful colourful mountain slopes behind. Follow the path as it bears south, ascending to the hot springs beneath Brennisteinsalda. Keep right as the path forks, climbing a small rocky valley until the path splits again. Time permitting, it is worth making a quick out-and-back detour to the summit of Brennisteinsalda which gives excellent views over the surrounding area. To continue turn left, still following signposting towards Hrafntinnusker and crossing a rounded ridgeline with superb colours to either side. The trail then undulates south-west, descending into Stórihver, a smoking valley full of bubbling hot springs that can be picked out with a telephoto lens. Ascend the steep incline out of Stórihver, entering a desolate plateau and passing a poignant memorial to Ido Keinan who tragically died here in 2004 during a terrible storm. A final traverse underneath Söðull leads to the Hrafntinnusker huts beneath the eponymous snow-capped mountain.

Viewpoints at Hrafntinnusker Once settled into Hrafntinnusker the best viewpoint is found on the summit of nearby Söðull, an isolated peak to the north-east that is clearly signposted from the camp. A good path leads to the top in 15 minutes, with stunning views back towards Landmannalaugar. The aspect and unobstructed views to the north make this a perfect sunset and sunrise location during early summer. There is also a nice perspective looking back towards Hrafntinnusker, particularly at sunrise when the mountain catches the early morning light.

Looking out over Landmannalaugar and the Laugahraun lava field. Nikon D850, 24–70mm at 24mm, ISO 100, 1/40s at f/10, tripod. Aug.

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Looking south on the third day of the Laugavegur trail from the summit of Brattháls. Stórasúla is the peak on the left, while the distinctive shape of Hattafell can be seen on the right.

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The Mýrdalsjökull and Eyjafjallajökull icecaps can also be seen in the distance. Canon 5DS R, 16–35mm at 20mm, ISO 100, 1/200s at f/8. © Alex Nail.

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SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS – LANGISJÓR LAKE

11.3

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10 LANGISJÓR LAKE

How to get here Please read the highland driving information found on page §§§ before planning a visit to this region, taking care to check the current road conditions at www.road.is before departing. The shortest approach to Langisjór is along the F208 from the southern ringroad. Turn onto RTE-208 23km south-west of Kirkjubæjarklaustur, following signposting to Landmannalaugar. Drive for 16km, keeping right at Gröf to stay on RTE-208, reaching the start of the F208 just past the Búland farmhouse. Continue for 28km, pass the Hólaskjól Highland Centre and ford the Stangakvísl river before turning right onto the F235, signposted towards Langisjór. A bumpy 28km follows, with two more rivers to ford before the rangers’ hut and designated camping area adjacent to the lake is reached. Parking lat/long: 64.110736, -18.442387 What3words: ///unfounded.bruisers.edging Accessible: Late June–Late August Difficulty / Car: 3 / class C Map: www.vatnajokulsthjodgardur.is

Accessibility Langisjór is difficult to access, exceptionally remote and seldom frequented. Visiting parties should be well provisioned and self sufficient, even in an emergency. Phone network coverage is poor and travelling in a group is recommended, particularly towards the end of the season when there are fewer visitors. Unfortunately the area is not well mapped – the best resource is currently found on the Vatnajökull website which is linked above. The trails are largely unmarked, making a GPS unit recommended.

Best time of year/day For safety reasons Langisjór is best visited from mid-July until mid-August, when the area is largely free from snow. At this time of year the sun rises at the north-eastern end of the lake, a sight best appreciated from the summit of Sveinstindur.

Approaching Uxatindar while hiking towards the Skælingar hut. Canon 5DS R, 16–35mm at 20mm, ISO 400, 1/50s at f/8. © Alex Nail.

Viewpoint 3 – Western shore drive & Breiðbakur What3words: ///excusing.fuses.unmask A rough vehicle track traverses the western shore of Langisjór to the highest point at Breiðbakur which provides a stunning view over the lake. The road then continues to a parking area at the north-eastern end of the lake. The road is poorly maintained, often holds snow late into the season and is difficult. This drive should only be attempted in a robust off-road vehicle such as a Land Rover, travelling in convey is recommended – the consequences of becoming stranded or breaking down here could be severe. The road starts 1.5km before reaching the campsite: junction at lat/long: 64.104617, -18.465659.

Viewpoint 2 – Sveinstindur & Fagralón circular hike 4 hours, 11km, 100m of ascent / descent.

Viewpoint 4 – Langisjór hiking circuit 3 days, 50km, 700m of ascent / descent.

From the parking area adjacent to the campsite, follow a walking path along the southern shore of Langisjór, skirting under the western flanks of Sveinstindur to reach the beautiful smaller lake at Fagralón. Continue north over the Þröskuldur ridge-line which seperates the two bodies of water before turning east and then south, with stunning views looking back over Fagralón. Finally follow the path around the eastern side of Sveinstindur to return to the parking area.

It is possible to follow a rough, unmarked path around the lake’s perimeter in three days, with two overnight stays. Tents will be required and these should pitched carefully to avoid the delicate moss. Take care to leave no trace. If travelling with multiple vehicles it is possible to start the walk from Breiðbakur or the north-eastern end of the lake (see previous viewpoint) to reduce the walking distance.

Viewpoint 5 – Sveinstindur–Skælingar–Eldgjá– Hólaskjól multi-day hike 2/3 days, 40km, 900m of ascent / descent. This beautiful itinerary follows the Skaftá river south, traversing through some spectacular scenery near Stóragil to reach Skælingar, an area of fascinating volcanic morphology created in the Eldgjá and Lakagígar eruptions. The hike can be made in two or three days, depending on the length of the first day. Be aware that the trail is poorly marked and there are numerous variations, particularly around Stóragil. Útivist offer guided tours (www.utivist.is), while the Highland Centre at Hólaskjól operates a shuttle drop off-service (www.eldgja.is). • Day 1 – Sveinstindur to Sveinstindur hut (6km) An ascent of Sveinstindur, before making the short hike south to the Sveinstindur hut (book at www.utivist.is). • Day 2 – Sveinstindur hut to Skælingar (16km) Head south following the Skaftá river past Uxatindar to the perfectly situated Skælingar hut (book at www.utivist.is). • Day 3 – Skælingar to Hólaskjól (18km) The trail now turns east, where an optional ascent of Gjátindur can be made. Eldgjá canyon can then be followed to the huts at Hólaskjól (book at www.utivist.is).

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15 ÞÓRSMÖRK / THÓRSMÖRK NATURE RESERVE Viewpoint 7 – Hvannárgil canyon hike with optional ascents of Réttarfell & Útigönguhöfði 2–10 hours depending on chosen itinerary. Hvannárgil is a stunning and rarely frequented ravine that cuts south-west under Réttarfell and Útigönguhöfði. A picturesque hiking trail follows the eastern bank with excellent views along the canyon in both directions. The path can be accessed from Langidalur by taking the pedestrian footbridge over the Krossá river before joining the ascending footpath just east of the distinctive Alfakirkja rock, or from Básar by crossing the headland to the south-west. There are then a number of possible variations depending on the party’s experience and the desired length of day. Both Réttarfell and Útigönguhöfði provide some of the best views in the region from their exposed summits, though care must be taken as both peaks are steep, exposed and dangerous in poor weather conditions. For those wanting an even longer day it is possible to continue south-east from Útigönguhöfði, descending to join the Fimmvörðuháls hiking trail at Heljarkambur or Morinsheiði. This can then be descended back to Básar.

Viewpoint 8 – Fimmvörðuháls & Morinsheiði 5 hours 30 minutes, 12km, 600m of ascent / descent. The Fimmvörðuháls hiking trail from Þórsmörk to Skógar is covered in more detail on page §§§. For those staying in Þórsmörk but not wishing to complete the entire walk, it is worth ascending the first 6km up to the Morinsheiði plateau, as this stretch is particularly photogenic. There are several exposed and precipitous sections that are unsuitable for those who suffer from vertigo.

A 40 image exposure bracketed panorama of Hvannárgil canyon. DJI P4P, 24mm, ISO 100, various at f/4.5, CPL. Aug.

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04 KVERKFJÖLL MOUNTAINS

Viewpoint 4 – Virkisfell hike 1 hour 30 minutes, 2km, 250m of ascent / descent. This short but steep hike to the summit of Virkisfell gives some of the best views over the local area. From the southern side of the Sigurðarskáli hut follow good signposting south and then east towards Virkisfell. The path splits shortly after cresting the first rise; keep left (right leads towards Biskupsfell) and ascend the steep switchbacks to reach the summit in approximately 50 minutes of steep uphill walking. In good visibility the resulting panorama is spectacular, with good views in all directions. To return, retrace your steps back to Sigurðarskáli.

Viewpoint 5 – Biskupsfell hike 5 hours, 8km, 450m of ascent / descent. This brilliant but remote hike holds snow very late into the season, often requiring crampons and an ice axe once the higher elevations are reached. There are several steep sections and a short scramble is required to reach the summit. The trail is generally well marked from Sigurðarskáli, though a good map should be considered mandatory. For those with suitable experience the views from the top are outstanding. Start as for Virkisfell before branching right at the first path junction, contouring underneath the peak and keeping right at the next junction, following good signposting and path markers towards Biskupsfell. The trail then begins to ascend very steeply up to a ridgeline, which is then followed north to reach the summit after a brief but exposed scramble. To return retrace your steps back to the Sigurðarskáli hut.

Viewpoint 6 – F903 & Hvannalindir return drive Famously the home of notorious Icelandic outlaws FjallaEyvindur and Halla Jónsdóttir, the Hvannalindir oasis is one of the region’s hidden gems. Accessed via the F903 and two deep river crossings, the road makes for an interesting albeit harder alternative return journey for photographers with suitable vehicles.

A cropped 20 image panorama showing the incredible view looking north from the summit of Biskupsfell. Nikon D850, 70–200mm at 70mm, ISO 100, 1/80s at f/4. Aug.

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01 ICELAND FROM THE AIR

Drones & unmanned aerial vehicles (UAVs) Recent advances in drone technology have made aerial photography within Iceland more accessible than ever before, allowing easy access to exciting new vantage points and perspectives. These new freedoms need to be exercised responsibly and the following should be observed.

Where are drones permitted? Drones are permitted throughout Iceland with the following restrictions: • It is forbidden to fly within a 2km radius of an international airport, or 1.5km of a domestic airport. Keep 50m away from buildings and private property in urban areas, and 150m away in rural regions unless permission has been granted by the owner. • The recreational use of drones is banned in all three of Iceland’s national parks; flying in the Vatnajökull National Park, Snæfellsjökull National Park and Þingvellir National Park is strictly forbidden. Note that Skaftafell nature reserve, Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon and Jökulsárgljúfur canyon are all part of the extensive Vatnajökull National Park. • Recently the Icelandic Environment Agency has designated many of the more popular tourist sites as drone-free zones, both for visitor safety and to ensure that everyone has an enjoyable experience. Please respect these restrictions which are clearly signposted. • In addition to compliance with the above, it is still important to be respectful of other visitors, many of whom visit Iceland for its tranquillity and wilderness. For commercial projects it is possible to apply for exemption from these constraints by contacting the Icelandic Environmental Agency or the relevant national park.

Drone rules & regulations in Iceland Please note that the rules regarding drone usage are constantly evolving, making it important to check the current guidelines before flying. For the latest updates, visit the Icelandic Transport Authorities website at www.icetra.is/aviation/drones Assuming drones are permitted in the intended area, the following rules apply for recreational flights (additional restrictions may apply for commercial drone use): • Drones must be marked with the owner’s name and contact details. • Total weight may not exceed 3kg within urban areas, and 25kg in rural areas. • A drone with a weight that exceeds 20kg must be insured. • Flying over crowds of people is not permitted. • Do not exceed a maximum altitude of 120m. • Remotely piloted aircraft should always be flown within visual line of sight of the pilot or RPA observer. Aircraft weighing less than 3kg are generally exempt from this rule. Hveravellir hot springs as seen from the air. DJI P4P, 24mm, ISO 100, 1/40s at f/3.5, CPL. Jul.

FEATURE PAGES – ICELAND FROM THE AIR

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02 AURORA BOREALIS / NORTHERN LIGHTS

Requiring dark skies, the ephemeral northern lights unfortunately coincide poorly with the short highland summer season. Late August and early September are typically the only times when the phenomenon can be witnessed when access to the interior is still possible. Caused by electrons from the sun exciting atoms and molecules in the Earth’s atmosphere to subsequently release photons of light, the aurora borealis or northern lights are a magical phenomenon that over the centuries has played a key role in Icelandic folklore. Long considered a gateway into another world, the lights are particularly strong in Iceland due to the Earth’s magnetic field which pulls the electronically charged particles towards the poles. Green is the most common manifestation, though it also possible to see pinks, reds, blues and even yellows. These colours are largely determined by the elements’ chemical composition (usually oxygen or nitrogen) and the agitated particles’ altitude. Both the strength and character of the aurora borealis vary wildly; sometimes the lights appear as a weak glow on the horizon difficult to discern with the naked eye, while on other occasions the sky comes alive with dancing ribbons of light. Arcs and bands that stretch across the skyline are the most common configurations, while pillars, ribbons, curtains and coronas are only seen during high activity events.

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A beautiful aurora display over Heimskautsgerðið, with the Pleiades star cluster also visible. Nikon D810, 20mm, ISO 2000, 15s at f/1.8, tripod. Sep.

Planning and preparation

Photographing the aurora borealis

For best results it is worth giving some logistical thought to an aurora shoot, planning a suitable location carefully.

Witnessing the aurora for the first time can be overwhelming. Try to contain your excitement and observe the following tips.

• While the aurora is active all year it requires dark skies to see clearly, making the long Icelandic summer unsuitable. The best season generally extends from late August to mid-April, though the longer hours of darkness towards midwinter increase the likelihood of spotting the lights. • The weather and aurora forecast can be checked at https://en.vedur.is, where a Kp scale from 0 to 9 predicts how active the lights are likely to be. Pay attention to the cloud cover maps as a clear sky is essential. • As the name implies, any activity usually starts in the north, though during geomagnetic storms the lights can often be seen in all directions. Plan a suitable venue with a strong foreground and unobstructed view of the sky.

• Arrive at the chosen location early, preferably in daylight. This allows time to familiarise yourself with the venue, scout the best perspectives and get focused correctly. • A simple yet striking foreground is key to a good aurora image; try not to get too absorbed in the sky. • Keep looking in all directions – it is easy to fixate on a particular area of activity, only to find a more impressive display taking place behind you. • Learn to use your camera and tripod quickly and competently in the dark to maximise efficiency. • Once you have some good images it is worth stepping away from the camera, finding a comfortable spot and enjoying the show with your own eyes.

The Kp scale explained

Using a smartphone

The Icelandic Met Office website (https://en.vedur.is/ weather/forecasts/aurora) and the Space Weather Prediction Center (www.swpc.noaa.gov/products/aurora-30minute-forecast) publish a daily Kp index. This scale has a range from 0 to 9, with a higher number indicating increased activity with the below characteristics:

Recent developments in smartphone camera technology now make it possible to capture the aurora using your phone:

Kp 1 to 3: Quiet activity and feint. The predominant colour is green, which often manifests as a weak glow on the horizon. Kp 4 to 6: Very active, yellow, bluish, or purple tones. Possibility of ribbons, bands and pillars. Aurora coronas are also possible. Kp 7 to 9: Powerful aurora storms with high activity. A strong possibility of multiple colours, including red. Please note that while the scale is a good indicator, it is not foolproof and can change rapidly. Anything above a 3 is generally very good, though if time is short and the skies are clear it is always worth heading out anyway – you never know.

• Make sure your battery is full charged. • Turn off all apps to save power. • Attach your smartphone to a suitable tripod in landscape orientation. • Set your smartphone camera to manual mode or use a camera app (see below) if it doesn’t have a native manual camera app. • Use the same settings as described in the grey box. • Some smartphones have native Night Modes that take multiple images and combine them. These can often be used handheld without the need for a tripod. Recommended apps include – NightCap Camera (iOS), Cortex Camera (iOS & Android), Northern Lights Photo Taker (iOS) and ProCam X (Android).

Equipment, focusing & settings Photographing the aurora is difficult, both due to the low light associated with astrophotography and the dynamic nature of the lights. The constant motion of the dancing aurora often requires a fast shutter speed in order to freeze any movement, necessitating a wide aperture to keep the image noise associated with a high ISO to a minimum. This ever-changing nature of the celestial lights also makes stacking multiple exposures for noise reduction problematic, as detail will be lost between frames. To this end a fast, wide angle prime lens is ideal for aurora photography, as it allows more light to be gathered in a single exposure. Given the Icelandic weather, a sturdy and easily adjustable tripod is essential for a productive experience. Though not essential, a remote release should also be considered as it reduces camera shake, makes timelapse photography easier, and is considerably easier to operate than the shutter when wearing winter gloves. Focusing–infinity. Generally speaking, photographers will focus to infinity when capturing the aurora as this gives sharp lights and stars. The deep depth of field associated with wide angle lenses and lack of nighttime shadow detail means it usually doesn’t matter if nearby objects are slightly out of focus. For perfectionists it is possible to focus stack the foreground. Use manual focus but don’t twist your focus ring to the furthest left or use the infinity symbol, as on most lenses this is incorrectly marked. It is better to manually focus on a bright star, planet or distant house/streetlight on the horizon. This sets your lens at infinity; some people use tape to fix it in position. Aperture – f/1.4–f/4. Try to use as wide an aperture as possible. If your lens does not perform well wide open, plan for some cropping in post to remove any corner stars with bad aberrations. Shutter speed: Your shutter speed will largely be determined by how fast the aurora is moving; generally, consider 15–30 seconds for slow-moving auroras like arcs and diffuse glows, 5–15 seconds for bright dancing pillars, and 1–5 seconds for high activity overhead coronas. Keep in mind that the NPF rule (or 500 rule if preferred) still has to be observed to achieve pinpoint stars. ISO 800–8000. Use the ISO as the final control of the overall exposure. If your image is too dark, increase the ISO; if it is too bright, reduce it. Be careful not to clip the highlights by going too high, a mistake easily made on high activity evenings, especially when the aurora brightens unexpectedly. For those with ISO invariant cameras, shooting at a lower value and then increasing the exposure in post will prevent this. Focal Length: 12–24mm. It is not uncommon for the aurora to fill the entire sky, making a wide angle lens ideal. A shorter focal length also reduces any relative movement, allowing a longer exposure and subsequently lower ISO. If in doubt, somewhere in the region of 14–24mm on a full frame camera is usually perfect.

FEATURE PAGES – AURORA BOREALIS / NORTHERN LIGHTS

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APPENDICES APPENDICES Appendix A – useful information & web links �� 00 Appendix B – language & key phrases �� 00 Appendix C – glossary �� 00

The vibrant rhyolite mountains at Landmannalaugar. Nikon D850, 70–200mm at 70mm, ISO 200, 1/80s at f/8. Aug.

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APPENDICES

About the author

James Rushforth is an experienced and professional climber, mountaineer, skier, travel writer and guest speaker. An internationally acclaimed photographer and author, James was the GTMA Global Travel Photographer and British Drone Photographer of the Year in 2020, the British Guild of Travel Writers Photographer of the Year in 2018, 2019 and 2020, a double category winner at the International Photography Awards in 2018, and Epson Digital Splash Photographer of the Year, also in 2018. His work frequently appears in national newspapers, guidebooks and magazines around the world. He maintains an active presence on social media and is part of the National Geographic Your Shot photography team. Based in the UK, James spends much of his time exploring the Italian Dolomites and Iceland and has authored a number of books to both regions. He has partnered with Wild Photography Holidays to lead specialist photography workshops to the Arctic, Greenland, Iceland, Romania & Italy. James is a member of the British Guild of Travel Writers, a Breakthrough Photography and Wilkinson Cameras Ambassador, is part of the Norrøna Pro Team and is kindly supported by Hilleberg. If you would like more information on James’ work or advice on visiting Iceland, are interested in joining him on a photography workshop, or would just like to get in touch, please don’t hesitate to contact him.

Connect with James on:

Instagram James.Rushforth Facebook James Rushforth Photography Twitter James_Rushforth

www.JamesRushforth.com

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ABOUT THE AUTHOR