Flipping for Burgers

Up your grilling game this summer with five innovative burger recipes made from beef, black beans and everything in between

BY MOLLY STEVENS

PHOTOGRAPHY TERRY BRENNAN FOOD STYLING LARA MIKLASEVICS

STEAKHOUSE BLUE CHEESE BURGERS WITH PICKLED RED ONIONS

When the temperature soars and daylight stretches long into evening, a backyard cookout presents the perfect dinner solution. It keeps us out of the hot kitchen, it means fewer pots and pans, and the casual outdoor setting puts everyone at ease. But just because we’re cooking outdoors doesn’t mean we have to leave our culinary creativity inside the kitchen. On the contrary! Instead of the usual hot dogs and hamburgers that get tossed on grills all summer long, here are five new burger recipes to ramp up your cooking routines and give even more reason to love summer.

Steakhouse Blue Cheese Burgers with Pickled Red Onions MAKES 6 BURGERS

What’s better than a thick, juicy cheeseburger? How about a blue cheese-stuffed burger that’s seasoned with a jolt of steak sauce and topped with zesty pickled red onion? These bodacious burgers would be at home on a fancy steakhouse menu, but they are straightforward enough for a casual cookout.

For the Pickled Onion 1/2 cup vinegar, white or apple cider 1/2 cup water 11/2 teaspoons sugar 11/2 teaspoons salt 1 large red onion, peeled and sliced into thin rings

For the Blue Cheese Filling 2 ounces (about 1/2 cup) blue cheese, crumbled 1 tablespoon butter, softened, plus more for the rolls

For the Burgers 2 pounds ground chuck, preferably 80% lean 1 tablespoon steak sauce, such as A1, or Worcestershire 3/4 teaspoon kosher salt 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, or more to taste

6 hamburger rolls, preferably potato or sesame rolls spinach leaves steak sauce, ketchup and/or mustard (optional)

1. Make the Pickled Onion: In a small bowl, combine the vinegar, water, sugar and salt. Stir to dissolve. Add the onion and let sit for 30 minutes at room temperature. The onion can be covered and stored in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks. 2. Make the Blue Cheese Filling: In a small bowl, combine the blue cheese and butter. Mix with a fork until well combined. Set aside. 3. Break the ground beef into 1- to 2-inch bits and drop into a mixing bowl. Season with steak sauce, salt and pepper. Mix gently to incorporate the seasonings without compressing the meat. Divide into 6 equal lumps, and then divide each portion again in half, so you have a total of 12 small portions. Lightly shape each into a thin patty, about 41/2 inches across. Divide the cheese filling evenly among 6 of the patties, flattening and centering the cheese on each so it doesn’t reach the edges. Top each with another patty, pinching to firmly seal the edges, and round the patties to make 6 evenly shaped burgers, no more than 11/4-inches thick. Refrigerate the burgers for at least 20 minutes, and up to 4 hours. 4. Heat a grill to medium-hot. Arrange the burgers on the grill and cook, flipping several times, until the burgers are done to your liking, about 6 to 10 minutes. Just before the burgers are ready, toast the rolls on the grill. 5. Butter the rolls and top with the burgers, pickled onions and a handful of spinach, adding any optional condiments.

Cook’s Notes:

• For the juiciest and tastiest burgers, shop for freshly ground chuck, preferably 80% lean. • Buttering the rolls is a steakhouse secret. Even a thin smear of butter amplifies the beefy taste, making the burgers even more satisfying. • If you don’t have time to make the pickled onion, make grilled onion instead. Cut the onion into 1/4-inch thick rings, brush with oil, and grill the rings alongside the burgers until tender. • For variations on the theme, substitute shredded cheddar, pepper Jack, provolone or Swiss for the blue cheese. Don’t omit the butter. • The longer you grill the burgers, the more cheese stuffing melts out, so if you prefer your burgers medium-well (or well-done), you may not see the cheese when you bite into the burger. You will, however, taste it; even if the cheese melts away, plenty of flavor remains. • The recommended internal temperatures for burger doneness are 125°F for rare, 135°F for medium-rare, 145°F for medium and 155°F for medium-well.

Ginger-Scallion Salmon Burgers MAKES 6 BURGERS

The key to these moist, flavor-packed burgers is grinding a portion of salmon to create a binder that holds together the flavorings and the rest of the coarsely chopped fish. This step avoids the need for added fillers (like breadcrumbs and eggs) that can weigh down other versions. If you want to keep things extra light, serve the burgers on lettuce leaf wraps. For a more traditional presentation, fine-crumbed brioche-style rolls are ideal.

2 pounds salmon fillet, skin removed 1 tablespoon freshly grated ginger 1 tablespoon minced jalapeño (no seeds) 4 scallions, green and white parts, minced 1 teaspoon freshly grated lime zest 1 teaspoon kosher salt Bibb lettuce leaves or soft hamburger rolls thinly sliced cucumber and fresh cilantro sprigs, for topping pickled ginger (optional)

canola or peanut oil, for grilling

For the Sauce 1/2 cup hoisin sauce 2 tablespoons fresh lime juice 2 teaspoons soy sauce 2 teaspoons sriracha, or to taste

1. Cut the salmon into 1- to 2-inch chunks and put about one-third of it into a food processor. Turn on the machine and process—stopping to scrape down the sides as needed—until smooth and thick. Add the remaining salmon, along with the ginger, jalapeño, scallions, lime and salt, and pulse until the additional salmon is coarsely chopped and everything is well combined. Scrape into a bowl. 2. Divide the salmon mixture into 6 equal lumps and then shape into patties, no more than 1-inch thick. Arrange on a plate, cover and refrigerate for at least 1 hour (and up to 4 hours). 3. Make the Sauce: In a small bowl, whisk together all the sauce ingredients. Cover and refrigerate until serving. 4. Heat a grill to medium-hot. Lightly brush the surface of the salmon burgers with oil and grill, flipping a few times, until cooked to your liking, 5 to 10 minutes. If using rolls, toast these on the grill as well. 5. Serve the burgers on lettuce wraps or toasted rolls, topping with the sauce, cucumber, cilantro and, if using, pickled ginger.

Cook’s Notes:

• If someone is available behind the fish counter, ask them to remove the skin for you. Otherwise, lay the fish on your cutting board and align a sharp, thin-bladed knife between the fillet and the skin; grab hold of the skin and tug the skin to keep it taut as you slide the knife to separate the fish. • Before cutting the fish into chunks, run a finger down the center line to make sure there are no tiny bones remaining. If you feel any bones, use a pair of tweezers or the edge of a knife to remove. • If you don’t have a food processor, in Step 1 use a large chef’s knife to chop one-third of the salmon as finely as possible to create almost a puree. Chop the remaining two-thirds into ¼-inch pieces and use a silicon spatula to blend the two together, along with the ginger, jalapeño, scallions, lime and salt and proceed with recipe. • Salmon burgers will dry out if overcooked and are best left a little pink inside. An internal temperature of 130°F will give you a medium burger and 140°F will be medium-well.

TIPS FOR SHAPING BURGERS

• The goal when seasoning and shaping ground meat into burgers is to handle the meat gently and deftly without compressing since too much handling will result in tough, dry burgers. • Your hands make the best tools—just remember to thoroughly wash them before and after. Plus, wetting your hands before shaping burgers helps prevent the meat from sticking to them. • An easy way to create equal-sized burgers is to eyeball even portions and arrange them, before shaping, on a large plate. This way you can add or remove a little here and there until you have equal-size lumps to start with. • The ideal burger thickness is 3/4-inch thick; this allows it to sear on the outside while remaining juicy on the inside. • To avoid the tendency for burgers to puff up in the middle as they cook, make a small depression in the center of each patty just before grilling (with the exception of the cheese-stuffed burger).

GINGER-SCALLION SALMON BURGERS

TURKEY, BACON AND CHEDDAR BURGERS

Turkey, Bacon and Cheddar Burgers MAKES 6 BURGERS

A bit of cottage cheese adds the richness and creaminess needed to transform lean ground turkey into five-star burgers that will satisfy any appetite. Crisp bacon, melted cheddar and a slather of special sauce don’t hurt either.

1 cup cottage cheese, preferably whole milk 2 pounds lean ground turkey 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard 1 teaspoon kosher salt 3/4 teaspoon dried thyme freshly ground black pepper, to taste

canola or peanut oil, for grilling

For the Sauce: 1/2 cup mayonnaise 3 tablespoons dill relish 1 tablespoon ketchup 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard dash vinegar or lemon juice, to taste

6 slices cheddar cheese 6 slices bacon, cooked crisp and cut in half crosswise 6 soft hamburger rolls, preferably sesame or whole grain ripe tomato slices, lettuce leaves, pickles (optional)

1. Put the cottage cheese in a mixing bowl, and mash with a fork to create very fine curds. Add the turkey, breaking it into 1- to 2-inch pieces. Add the mustard, salt, thyme and pepper, and mix to incorporate without compressing the meat. Divide into 6 equal lumps, and shape into patties, each about 41/2 inches across and 3/4 inch thick. Cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours and up to 1 day. 2. Make the Sauce: Whisk together all the sauce ingredients in a small bowl. Refrigerate, covered, for up to 2 days. 3. Heat a grill to medium hot. Lightly coat the surface of the burgers with oil and grill, flipping 2 or 3 times, until almost cooked through, about 14 minutes. Top each with cheese, and continue cooking until the cheese is just melted, an additional 2 to 3 minutes. Toast the hamburger rolls on the grill. 4. Smear both inner sides of the rolls with sauce. Arrange burgers on the rolls, top with bacon and any additional toppings.

Cook’s Notes:

• Offer any extra sauce at the table or save it to dress up your next turkey or chicken sandwich. • For a fresh take on a Tex-Mex turkey burger, substitute chili powder for dried thyme, swap in chipotle mayonnaise for the sauce, and add ripe avocado to your selection of toppings. • Turkey burgers should be cooked all the way through. If you use an instant-read thermometer, the internal temperature should be 160°F.

GRILLING TIPS

• Always clean your grill grates thoroughly before grilling. • It’s helpful to set up dual zones on your grill (one medium-hot for grilling, one less hot side where you can toast the buns or move the burgers if the grill flares up). With charcoal, arrange the coals so most of the heat is concentrated on one side; for a gas grill, adjust the two sides accordingly. • Kettle style grills (i.e. Weber models) work best if you close the lid during grilling. • Don’t flip burgers any more than you have to (usually 2 to 3 times). Each time you flip, you release juices and risk having the burger fall apart. • Don’t press down on the burgers as they cook; this only dries them out. • Veggie, fish and turkey burgers are more delicate than beef and lamb burgers and require a little more care when flipping. A flat stainless-steel grill basket can provide extra insurance against sticking; just be sure it’s clean and hot before adding the burgers. • Burgers are close to done with they start to feel firm when pressed. To check, either discretely cut into a burger and peek to see that it’s done to your liking, or use an instant-read thermometer, inserting the probe horizontally through the side of the burger, not through the top. • When making a cheeseburger, add the cheese during the last 2 minutes of grilling, allowing it to soften but not completely melt and slide off the burger. • If the burgers need to wait a few minutes before serving, transfer them to a platter and tent with foil. Don’t arrange them on the rolls until serving, as they will only make the rolls soggy.

Turkish-Spiced Lamb Burgers with Grilled Peppers and Creamy Feta MAKES 6 BURGERS

A trio of warming spices—paprika, cumin and cinnamon—and a creamy feta topping give these tender lamb burgers a deliciously Eastern Mediterranean vibe. Stick with that theme and serve them tucked into pita pockets or go for standard hamburger rolls.

2 pounds ground lamb 11/2 teaspoons paprika, hot or sweet 11/2 teaspoons ground cumin 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon 1 teaspoon kosher salt plus more to taste freshly ground black pepper, to taste For the Feta Sauce 6 ounces feta cheese 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive 1 garlic clove, minced 1 tablespoon chopped fresh mint leaves (optional)

2 red bell peppers, stemmed, seeded and each cut into 6 planks 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil 6 pita rounds or hamburger rolls spicy lettuces, such as a spring or mesclun mix

1. Break the ground lamb into 1- to 2-inch bits and drop into a mixing bowl. Season with paprika, cumin, cinnamon, 1 teaspoon salt and several grinds of black pepper. Combine gently to incorporate the seasonings without compressing the meat. Divide into 6 equal lumps, and then shape into 6 patties, each about 41/2 inches across and 3/4 inch thick. For the best flavor, cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours before cooking. 2. Make the Feta Sauce: Break the feta into large chunks and drop into a food processor. Pulse a few times until crumbly. Add the remaining ingredients and continue to pulse until the mixture is smooth. Scrape into a small bowl. If not using right away, cover and refrigerate for up to 2 days. 3. Heat a grill to medium hot. Lightly coat the surface of the red pepper with oil, and season with salt and pepper. Place the peppers skin-side down on the grill, and cook, flipping 2 or 3 times, until nicely charred and beginning to soften, about 5 minutes. Move the peppers to the perimeter of the grill to keep warm. 4. Grill the burgers, flipping a few times, until cooked to your liking, about 12 to 16 minutes total. (Lamb burgers are best cooked to medium or medium-well.) For pitas, cut off the top section of each to make an opening. If using rolls, toast them on the grill. 5. Smear the inside of the pita (or on both inner sides of the rolls) with Feta Sauce. Divide the burgers and grilled peppers among the pitas (or rolls). Top with a handful of greens and serve.

Cook’s Notes:

• For best tasting feta, shop for a chunk rather than crumbles. Sheep and goat’s milk varieties will provide an even more distinctive taste. • In place of the red peppers, grill up a bag of mini sweet pepper medley. Stem and seed the mini peppers as directed but cut each in half lengthwise. Expect them to grill more quickly. • For the best tasting burgers, season and shape the ground lamb at least 2 hours ahead. This gives the spices a chance to permeate the meat. • This recipe works equally well for ground beef; choose 80% lean for best flavor. • The recommended internal temperature for lamb burger doneness is 145°F for medium or 155°F for medium-well.

THE RIGHT ROLLS

When choosing rolls for your burgers, consider their size, texture and taste. • Size: You want a roll that’s large enough to hold the burger and all the fixings but one that doesn’t dwarf the burger (many so-called bulky rolls are just that— too bulky). • Texture: The roll should be tender enough that you can bite easily into the roll and the burger (stay away from overly chewy or crusty hearth-baked rolls). For extra-juicy burgers (like the stuffed burger and the turkey burger), a fluffy roll that can soak up juices is ideal. • Taste: A burger roll should be a backdrop, complementing the taste of the burger and any toppings without competing. • Favorite choices: Soft potato rolls, standard sesame-topped hamburger buns and English muffins. Specialty rolls can be fun, too, or skip the roll and use a lettuce wrap for a refreshing alternative.

TURKISH-SPICED LAMB

BURGERS WITH GRILLED PEPPERS AND CREAMY FETA

BLACK BEAN AND MUSHROOM BURGERS WITH BASIL-GARLIC MAYONNAISE

Black Bean and Mushroom Burgers with Basil-Garlic Mayonnaise MAKES 4 BURGERS

Creating a homemade bean and veggie burger that is both sturdy enough for the grill and loaded with flavor requires some advance prep work, but the results are well worth it. Roasting and cooling the vegetables before blending removes excess moisture and adds an extra depth of flavor. Toasted walnuts and grated Parmesan contribute an added layer of umami—so much that no one will miss the meat.

8 ounces mushrooms, button or cremini, trimmed 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided, plus more for grilling 1 (15-ounce) can black beans, drained and rinsed 1/2 cup shredded carrot 1 cup walnuts (about 3 ounces), lightly toasted 1/4 cup panko breadcrumbs 1 cup cooked brown rice 1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese 1 teaspoon kosher salt, or to taste 1/2 teaspoon ground cumin 1/2 teaspoon smoked paprika, hot or sweet freshly ground black pepper

For the Basil-Garlic Mayonnaise 1/3 cup mayonnaise 2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil leaves 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil 1/2 teaspoon fresh lemon juice, or to taste salt and pepper, to taste

4 sandwich thins or ciabatta rolls ripe tomato slices and arugula

1. Heat the oven to 375°F. Slice the mushrooms about 1/4-inch thick and pile them onto a baking sheet. Drizzle with 1 tablespoon olive oil, toss to combine, and spread into an even layer. Bake, stirring with a spatula about halfway through, until brown in spots and nearly dry, about 30 minutes. Let cool. 2. Meanwhile, combine the beans and carrot on another baking sheet. Add the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil. Toss to combine and spread into an even layer. Bake, stirring once halfway through, until dry and a good portion of the beans have burst open, about 15 minutes. Let cool.

3. Combine the walnuts and panko in a food processor. Pulse on and off to grind into a coarse paste. Add the cooled mushrooms, the rice, Parmesan and seasonings. Pulse to combine. Add the beans and carrot, and pulse to create a cohesive mixture—there should be bits of visible black beans. Scrape into a mixing bowl and taste, adjusting the seasoning to taste. 4. Divide the mixture into 4 equal lumps, and then shape into 1-inch thick patties. Arrange on a plate, cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours (and up to 2 days). 5. Prepare the Basil-Garlic Mayonnaise: Combine all the ingredients in a small bowl. Season to taste with lemon juice, salt and pepper. Refrigerate for up to 1 hour. 6. Heat a grill to medium hot. Lightly coat each burger with oil, and grill, flipping 2 or 3 times, until well seared and heated through, 8 to 10 minutes total. 7. Serve the burgers on sandwich thins or burger rolls, topped with tomato, arugula and Basil-Garlic Mayonnaise.

Cook’s Notes:

• Veggie burgers are higher in carbs than all-meat burgers, so it’s best to serve them on lower carb rolls or bread, such as sandwich thins or airy ciabatta rolls. • If the walnuts aren’t already toasted, toast them in the oven at 350°F (before roasting the vegetables); they will take about 8 minutes. Be sure they are fully cooled before grinding. • Since all the ingredients are essentially precooked, the objective when grilling is to merely brown the outside and heat the inside. • The burgers can be made ahead, tightly wrapped and frozen for up to 2 months. Defrost overnight in the refrigerator before grilling, or add a few minutes to the grill time. 

STEAKHOUSE BLUE CHEESE BURGERS W. PICKLED ONIONS:

PER SERVING: CALORIES 506; FAT 29g (sat. 13g); CHOL 119mg; SODIUM 895mg; CARB 26g; FIBER 2g; ADDED SUGARS 3g; PROTEIN 34g

GINGER-SCALLION SALMON BURGERS:

PER SERVING: CALORIES 320; FAT 14g (sat. 3g); CHOL 86mg; SODIUM 875mg; CARB 12g; FIBER 1g; ADDED SUGARS 6g; PROTEIN 34g

TURKEY, BACON & CHEDDAR BURGERS:

PER SERVING: CALORIES 683; FAT 44g (sat. 12g); CHOL 157mg; SODIUM 1348mg; CARB 25g; FIBER 1g; ADDED SUGARS 4g; PROTEIN 46g

TURKISH-SPICED LAMB BURGERS W. GRILLED PEPPERS & CREAMY FETA:

PER SERVING: CALORIES 616; FAT 37g (sat. 14g); CHOL 121mg; SODIUM 1018mg; CARB 36g; FIBER 3g; ADDED SUGARS 0g; PROTEIN 34g

BLACK BEAN & MUSHROOM BURGERS W. BASIL-GARLIC MAYONNAISE:

PER SERVING: CALORIES 683; FAT 42g (sat. 6g); CHOL 12mg; SODIUM 1153mg; CARB 66g; FIBER 16g; ADDED SUGARS 2g; PROTEIN 19g

LEMONY QUINOA KALE SALAD (RECIPE PAGE 34)