EAT
PORTION CONTROL Small Plates Make a Big Comeback WRITTEN BY: kristAL dOCtEr • PHOTOGRAPHY BY: AndrEW ABAJiAn
Small plates can be many things. They can be relished as a firstcourse before a family meal or they can be transformed into a meal by consuming a variety of offerings in a communal setting with your besties. For me, small plates conjure nostalgic moments from my first travels overseas, circa 1999. Gathered in the South of France in a local bar with a tiny alley-way entrance, we savored rustic small plates of cured meats and stinky but oh so yummy French cheeses and fresh baked breads while trading tales in five languages. It’s social food. A gastronomic notion that has been present for centuries in European locales, tapas, appetizers, hors d’oeuvres (whichever name applies), these petite versions of their larger counterparts are meant to be shared in a conversational setting, and surprisingly, are a fairly new concept to America. With small plates, you can explore flavors, you can eat steak and lobster on a budget, and you can still go dancing after savoring several dishes. So we decided to travel our county to reveal to readers where you can locate the most supreme of all Small Plates.
LOLA GASPAR
Artist Village – 211 West 2nd Street | Santa Ana, CA 92701 714-972-1172 | www.lolagaspar.com Lola leads the pack when it comes to serving a small-plate only menu. Nearing its four-year anniversary, Lola Gaspar, located in Santa Ana’s Artist Village, was one of the first restaurants to bring Euro-bistro style dining to Orange County. Owners and brothers Eddie and Luis Perez, infuse their delectable bites with signature bold spices from a melding of their own eclectic legacy, constructing dishes that smell like Spain on a plate. From the use of the finest Italianimported 00 Flour in their flatbreads to their rotating Market Seafood Plate composed of the freshest weekly selections of seafood from Santa Monica Seafood, this dynamic duo keeps customers coming through their doors by thoughtfully attending to the details. This version of a neighborhood pub entices customers by pairing an intimate and slightly anomalous indoor/outdoor setting with an approachable menu that frequently changes. Eddie explained that the idea of offering an entire menu of small plates, allows adventurous diners 52 |
| Holiday 2012 Issue
a more diverse experience and an opportunity for particular eaters to try cuisines they may not have in a main course setting. Lola’s menu of regional dishes offers everything from fresh salads, seasonal veggies, steamed shellfish and a la carte tacos to main courses made smaller, like the pork ossobuco or the chile relleno – all subject to change with what’s in season. And the kitchen is open late! (Another seemingly new concept for Orangey County.) The kitchen closes at midnight on Monday – Thursday, 1 am on Friday and Saturday, and 10 pm on Sundays. Our feisty friend Lola (the peculiar painting on the wall, greeting diners as they enter) will be there to welcome you seven days a week. SMALL PLATE PICK: Chile Relleno Puerco. This dish puts me in my happy place. It’s an item that’s remained on the menu since its inception, due to its popularity, and now I know why. Stuffed with succulent shredded pork, cheese and cranberries, the poblano
pepper is dusted in polenta and baked in the oven so it comes out crispy on the outside and gooey on the inside. A beautiful balance of heat, sweet and salty makes this dish my new favorite. And although this dish certainly doesn’t require a pairing, I absolutely cannot recommend Lola Gaspar without suggesting one of their heavenly cocktails. Lola serves my favorite cocktail in Orange County, and it’s the Huckleberry (bourbon, honey, grapefruit, thyme, bitters). Trust me. NATIVE KNOWLEDGE: When Lola Gaspar decided to open in this downtown Santa Ana space four years ago, the building wasn’t equipped to run gas appliances. But that wasn’t a problem for fearless Chef and coowner Luis Perez. He said, “Give me a source of heat, and I can cook.” So he does. He cooks on an electric stovetop and griddle and uses induction ranges. Now that’s talent!