4 minute read

Teatum Jones

A fashion label driven by a love of human stories

Interview Kevin Voller

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For FW17 Teatum Jones have looked at the story of their relationship with the human body. Looking at the work of Hans Bellmer, they stepped inside his ‘doll project’, which he created to oppose the fascism of the Nazi Party. Bellmer defiantly stood against the ideals of the new German state by composing mutated doll forms and unconventional poses that were a direct rejection of the cult of the seemingly perfect body, then prominent in Germany.

Teatum Jones’ objective is to explore and breakdown the idea of “us and them, them and us”... They have looked at the body objectively and deconstructed it without prejudice. They have championed the idea that something you traditionally and socially accept as ‘whole’ and seemingly ‘perfect’ can be deconstructed in unconventional ways and considered just as beautiful.

Teatum Jones have explored their key signature shapes such as their statement oversized coats and column dresses, taking the seams apart and reconstructing them using contrasting sheer layers, eyeleted seams and strapped waistlines with extra long tapes. The results are bell sleeves that mask the wearers’ hands, oversized collars that exaggerate the neckline and optional hemlines that almost want to escape from within a garment. Many of the garments appear to simultaneously have two layers of skin.

They have explored the idea of optional tension, restriction and length, using gros-grain straps and industrial sized eyelets to allow the wearer to discover different volumes, tensions and lengths to work on their individual body shape.

KV - In a few words, tell us a little about yourselves?

TJ - Bold, Honest and Socio-Political.

KV - When did you start getting into fashion?

TJ - Both of us from an early age loved to create.

KV - What inspired you to start your own clothing line?

TJ - We both wanted Teatum Jones to be a start of a journey that unearths, excites and inspires.

KV - What message do you want to give through your collections?

TJ - The message we want to give with our collections is a message of confidence. To wear bold colour and be who you are.

KV - Where do you find inspiration?

TJ - Catherine and I are driven by a love of human stories so we are always soaking up peoples stories in our every day lives. That may be a book we read about fictional characters, newspaper articles about real life stories or just conversations we have with the many different people we encounter.

We take those human stories and evolve them into bold and exquisite fabrics that tell those narratives in a way that intrigues and engages the wearer. We marry these bold vibrant fabrics with cool and refined shapes to appeal to a super smart and creative individual. This accumulates into an aesthetic that is modern, polished and bold.

KV - What motivates you?

TJ - People

KV - What has been the highlight of your career so far?

TJ - Being the first UK brand to win the International Woolmark Prize last year in New York in front of legendary judges such as Andrea Leon Talley, Tim Blanks and Anita Barr.

KV - What is next for Teatum Jones?

TJ - Collaborations! 3 key ones coming up soon.

Their patterns, textures and fabrics are inspired by imperfect geometry. Rejecting the soft curves and round sockets of Bellmer’s doll silhouettes, Teatum Jones have moved instead towards awkward and imperfect squares. Imperfect and youthful marks are hand painted onto silk satin crepes and British heritage wools by British Artist Tom Leamon. They have encased woven wool checks behind a clear wall of PVC coating to protect the delicacy of fluffy mohair, adding a layer of waterproof skin and honest visibility.

Partnering with Hawick courtesy of SR:D in Scotland, they have evolved key knitwear shapes to offer a unisex wardrobe of luxurious cashmere shapes with signature long sleeves.

Cable jumpers and oversized cardigans that become dresses with off the shoulder carmen necklines.

Their colour palette was inspired from their SS17 collection, sharing their palettes into three groups: The first a dark, somber group of wet, shiny midnight navy, innocent ivory and finishing’s in chrome silver and black tapes.

The second colour group is an homage to memories of a traditionally rich and warming autumn with hues of ripe burgundy, opulent mustard, indulgent salmon pink and soft cornflower blues. Teatum Jones end their story on a powerfully stark colour palette of black and white, with accents of post box red, smokey pvc and grey melange.

Teatum Jones have continued their collaboration with British Artist Tom Leamon using tonal coloured paint and energetic marks on a smaller scale from SS17, continuing to evolve the concept of wearable art.

For FW17 they have partnered with luxury British woollen mill ‘John Foster’ who have sponsored our wool suitings and coatings, taking inspiration from their archives in Black Dyke Mills in the heart of West Yorkshire. John Foster is an award winning company built on innovation.

They have also partnered with luxury British woollen mill ‘J.H.Clissold’ who have sponsored our mens and womens wool suitings made from the finest Australian and New Zealand Merino Wool, taking inspiration from archival fabrics manufactured in their Yorkshire mill since 1910. Together with ‘Laxtons,’ Britain’s specialist manufacturer of bespoke yarns they have created their chunky roving hand knitting yarn, expertly spun in England.

For FW17 shoes Teatum Jones have partnered with Christian Louboutin and spectacles they have partnered with Cutler and Gross.

Jewellery and hardware trims have been designed in collaboration with London based Brazilian Jewellery artist Nina De Marco.

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