RC Sport Flyer Feb 2013 (Vol 18-02) by RC Flyer News

Mini Contender LetsYou Fly Patterns Pg68 Worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Most In-Depth RC Aircraft Magazine

Alpine Soaring

Take this Adventure with Us into Hells Canyon

Phazer

Makes You a Jet Pilot!

See Why

Plus HowTo Georgia Warbirds

WWI & II Fighters See Action at this Event february 2013

USA & Canada $6.49

rc-sf.com

Cockpits Fun Floats Paint Propellers Helicopter Lights Like

A GiAnt ExpEriEncE for SmAll SpAcES ®

The revolutionary AS3X® (Artificial Stabilization - 3 aXis) System from Horizon Hobby is advancing the performance and capability of ultra micro aircraft unlike anything that’s come before. And if you’ve tried any of the great ultra micro aircraft with AS3X technology, then the amazing performance probably has you looking at every place you go as a possible flying site. That’s because the AS3X System makes it easier to fly in light wind and turbulence, so you can fly in small spaces but still get a Giant-Scale experience.

UMX Sbach 342 3D BNF Basic

(EFLU4950)

The UMX™ Sbach® 342 3D BNF Basic—designed by Mike McConville—is specially engineered to provide precision aerobatic and extreme 3D maneuverability. Whether you want to fly smooth scale maneuvers or wild 3D moves, its AS3X system is specially tuned to give you the sense of authority and stability you’d expect with an expertly tuned Giant-Scale airplane.

© 2012 Horizon Hobby, Inc. E-flite, AS3X, UMX, Bind-N-Fly and the Horizon Hobby logo are trademarks or registered trademarks of Horizon Hobby, Inc. Sbach and its design are trademarks of STO Streicher GmbH & Co. KG registered in Germany and used with permission. Sbach and its design are trademarks of XtremeAir GmbH registered in the U.S. and used with permission. Cub Crafters, Carbon Cub, associated emblems and logos, and body designs of vehicles are either registered trademarks or trademarks of Cub Crafters, Inc. and are used with permission. US D578,146. US 7,898,130. PRC ZL 200720069025.2. Other Patents Pending. 37677.1

control thE Air

UMX MiG 15 DF BNF (EFLU1680) The UMX MiG 15 DF is a breakthrough in ultra micro electric ducted fan technology and delivers scorching performance. Its AS3X System is specially tuned to offer slow flight that’s rock solid and the kind of control to perform high-speed passes or enormous loops as super smooth as a Giant-Scale jet.

UMX Carbon Cub SS BNF (EFLU1180) The UMX Carbon Cub SS offers performance that’s an escape from the ordinary. Equipped with the AS3X System, this versatile Cub is extremely friendly and rock solid at all times, which makes it ideal for use as a tug with the UMX ASK-21 or as a float plane when fitted with the optional UMX Carbon Cub SS Float Set (EFLUA1190).

UMX ASK-21 BNF (EFLU1280) The UMX ASK-21 is a fully functional unpowered scale RC sailplane, equipped with a remote tow hook release so you can aerotow with another ultra micro aircraft like the UMX Carbon Cub SS. The onboard AS3X System offers solid control and smooth handling that you’ll especially appreciate during those critical moments while on tow or Hi-Start line.

VISIT

Your Local Retailer

CLICK

horizonhobby.com

CALL

1.800.338.4639

SERIOUS FUN.™

USB adapter

Airspeed MSpeed EX

Expander E4 EX

Sensor Current/Voltage MUI EX

Sensor GPS MGPS EX

Revolutionary Anti-Spark Connectors!

ESPRIT model

www.ESPRITMODEL.com

Jetiusa

(1) 321-729-4287

www.JetiUSA.com

DEPARTMENTS

10 14 88 89

leading edge

BUILD

Hot Products advertiser index Mystery airplane

Dallaire Sportster fuselage part iiI Finish the fuselage of this majestic model and get more tricks for your workshop. By Jeff Troy

Cockpits Part II Learn to fashion and finish cockpit details for true scale realism. By Rob Caso

pg 80 how to

pg 68

Good looks, aerobatics and nostalgia—this ARF has it all!

scale propellers Make a propeller you’ll be proud to show off in this step-by-step article. By Bob Mitchell

Super fly floats Prepare your foamy for landing in snow or water by adding these easy floats. By Rob Caso Night flight See how one creative pilot illuminates his helicopter with multicolored LEDs. By Carsten Wagner

Satisfy your need for speed with Great Planes’ delta-wing Phazer EDF. photos

alpine soaring 2012 Find out why there’s nothing more beautiful than soaring gliders in the Wallowa Valley. By Wil Byers

event

atlanta memorial Warbirds Rally See why warbird pilots flock to this exciting event, and why you’ll want to go next year. By Jerry Smith

RC SPORT FLYER — February 2013

pg 50 Discover the fun of soaring high above Hells Canyon, OR.

February 2013 reviews

heli-max 1sq rtf Four blades mean four times the fun for this micro-size, responsive flyer. By Wil Byers dynamite charger Charge your battery packs two at a time with this highpowered, easy-to-use beast. By Anthony Richards

mini contender arf Take off with this electricpowered sport flyer for a breezy, nostalgic flight. By Richard Kuns

e-flite twist 3d 480 Take flight with this colorful 3D plane for hassle-free aerobatics and fun. By Daniel Holman

phazer edf arf Pump up your adrenaline and piloting skills with this fast, sleek speed machine. By Dan Deckert

PG 34

Get in the cockpit with this build article.

RC-SF.COM

Editor in Chief: Assistant Editors:

Wil Byers

wil@rc-sf.com

Tara Swanson

assted@rc-sf.com

Bess Byers, Claire Schilperoort Don Porten, Anthony Richards

subscribe @ RC-SF.com for only $24.95

Art Director:

Zhe Meng

Photography:

Wil Byers Bess Byers

Graphic Designers:

Zhe Meng Bess Byers Shi Yuang

graphics@rc-sf.com

Webmaster Contact: Office Manager/Circulation:

Staci Fogler

bookkeeper@kionapublishing.com

YinZi Cui

Circulation:

Mike Werner

Marketing:

Wil Byers, YinZi Cui wil@rc-sf.com ads@rc-sf.com

Contributing Editors: Don Bailey, Rob Caso, Gene Cope, Daniel Holman, Mike Hoffmeister, Richard Kuns, Bob McGowan, Joe Nave, Vincenzo Pedrelli, Steve Rojecki, Gary Ritchie, Mike Shellim, Jerry Smith, Jeff Troy, James VanWinkle RC Sport Flyer (ISSN: 1941-3467) is published monthly for $24.95 per year by Kiona Publishing, Inc., P.O. Box 4250, W. Richland, WA 99353-4004. Periodicals postage paid at Richland, WA and additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to RC Sport Flyer, P.O. Box 4250, W. Richland, WA 99353-4004. Office: (509) 967-0831 Hours: M–Th 8-4, Closed Fri, Sat & Sun. Subscriptions: kionasubscribe.com Toll Free (Orders Only) (866) 967-0831 Editor/Ads/Design: (509) 967-0832 E-mail: subscriptions@kionapublishing.com Fax Number: (509) 967-2400 Ask for RC Sport Flyer at your local hobby shop! Hobby Shop Orders (800) 558-1544 ext. 818 www.retailers.kalmbach.com

Hobby Shop distribution by: Kalmbach Publishing Co. (800) 558-1544 ext. 818 Subscriptions: USA and possessions and Canada: $24.95 per year, $54.95 overseas. Washington residents add 8.3% sales tax. Single copies $6.49 plus $3.50 S&H U.S. All payments must be in U.S. funds. Visa, Mastercard, Amex, and Discover accepted. Send to: RC Sport Flyer – Circulation, P.O. Box 4250, W. Richland, WA 99353-4004. Please allow eight weeks for change of address. Contributions: Articles and photographs are welcome, but cannot be considered unless guaranteed exclusive. When requested we will endeavor to return all materials in good condition if accompanied by return postage. RC Sport Flyer assumes no responsibility for loss of or damage to editorial contributions received. Any material accepted is subject to possible revision at the discretion of the publisher. Publisher assumes no responsibility for accuracy of content. Opinions of contributing authors do not necessarily reflect those of the publisher. RC Sport Flyer will retain author’s rights, title to and interest in the editorial contributions as described above in both print and electronic media unless prior arrangement has been made in writing. Payment for editorial materials will be made at our current rate. Submission of editorial material to RC Sport Flyer expresses a warranty by the author that such material is in no way an infringement upon the rights of others. The contents of this magazine may not be reprinted traditionally or electronically without permission of the publisher.

RC SPORT FLYER — February 2013

Chang Liang

web@kionapublishing.com

Office Assistant:

graphics@rc-sf.com

Printed in the USA

WORLD FAMOUS PATTERN SUPPLIER

CENTRAL HOBBIES

www.centralhobbies.com Information (406) 259-9004 Mon-Sat: 10-6 Closed Sunday Orders only 1-800-723-5937 Fax (406) 259-4744 Prices subject to change • Shipping additional

YS FZ70 SPORT

YS FZ140 Sport

YS FZ115 Sport $397.35

$319.97

The FZ70S is the most powerful 4 cycle engine of its size and was developed for sport flying as well as power demanding acrobatics. Supercharged system,fuel injected. Regulated and pressurized fuel system muffler Displacement 11.45CC Bore 27.7 mm Stroke 19.0mm Weight (engine) 455g (muffler) 33g Practical RPM 2,000-15,000

$459.97

New regulator design for ease of operation. Proven fuel injection system for a more consistent run.Ring sealed crankshaft to increase crankcase boost for more power. Same mounting pattern as YS110FZ-S Displacement 18.73cc Bore 30.4mm Stroke 25.8mm Weight 730g

This engine is very easy to operate with smooth running characteristics and the ability to run well on fuel in a variety of nitro percentages. But we still recommend YS 20/20 fuel for best results. Fits the same area as the 1.20.

Check our website for details.

CARBON FIBER PUSHRODS 2 RODS & 4 ENDS

TETTRA “CRANK” TANKS

CHMROD24 CHMROD35 CHMROD36 CHMROD38

Clunk tanks designed to keep fuel flowing at every angle in flight.

CF CF CF CF

24” 35” 36” 38”

x x x x

5/32” 1/8” 3/16” 1/4”

(2) (2) (2) (2)

$6.95 $7.25 $8.97 $9.35

PUSHROD SETS

CARBON FIBER & TITANIUM

TET4029 TET4030 TET4031 TET4032 TET4033 TET4034 TET4035 TET4043 TET4050 TET4055

CRANK TANK 230CC CRANK TANK 260CC CRANK TANK 300CC CRANK TANK 350CC CRANK TANK 400CC CRANK TANK 460CC CRANK TANK 580CC CRANK TANK 160CC CRANK TANK 500CC CRANK TANK 720CC

8OZ 9OZ 11OZ 12 OZ 14 OZ 16 OZ 20 OZ 5.5 OZ 17.5 OZ 25 OZ

$12.99 $11.95 $13.99 $14.97 $16.68 $17.19 $18.76 $10.99 $17.95 $18.99

TETTRA FUEL FITTINGS Check our website for details

TETTRA TET4311 MINI-COCK BALL VALVE 3/32” $12.49

TETTRA TET4307 FOR STANDARD FUEL TUBING 3/32” FUEL T W/ FILTER $7.99

TETTRA TET4308 FOR LARGE FUEL TUBING 3/16” TRIANGLE JOINT WITH FILTER $7.99

TETTRA TET4304 FOR LARGE FUEL TUBING 3/16” TRIANGLE JOINT $10.49

CHMPRS24M2 CHMPS24M25 CHMPRS24M3 CHMPRS24T2 CHMPRS24T4 CHMPRS35M2 CHMPS35M25 CHMPRS35T2 CHMPS36M25 CHMPRS36M3 CHMPRS36T4 CHMPRS36T6 CHMPRS36T8 CHMPRS38M3 CHMPRS38T4 CHMPRS38T6

P/R P/R P/R P/R P/R P/R P/R P/R P/R P/R P/R P/R P/R P/R P/R P/R

SET SET SET SET SET SET SET SET SET SET SET SET SET SET SET SET

CARB/TIT 24” 2MM CARB/TIT 24X2.5MM CARB/TIT 24” 3MM CARB/TIT 24” 2-56 CARB/TIT 24” 4-40 CARB/TIT 35” 2MM CARB/TIT 35 2.5MM CARB/TIT 35” 2-56 CARB/TIT 36X2.5MM CARB/TIT 36”X3MM CARB/TIT 36” 4-40 CARB/TIT 36” 6-32 CARB/TIT 36” 8-32 CARB TIT 38 X 3MM CARB/TIT 38” 4-40 CARB/TIT 38” 6-32

CHMPRE24M2 CHMPE24M25 CHMPRE24M3 CHMPRE24T2 CHMPRE24T4 CHMPRE35M2 CHMPE35M25 CHMPRE35T2 CHMPE36M25 CHMPRE36M3 CHMPRE36T4 CHMPRE36T6 CHMPRE36T8 CHMPRE38M3 CHMPRE38T4 CHMPRE38T6 CHMPRE48T4

P/R P/R P/R P/R P/R P/R P/R P/R P/R P/R P/R P/R P/R P/R P/R P/R P/R

ENDS TIT 5/32 X 2MM ENDS TIT 5/32”X2.5MM ENDS TIT 5/32 X 3MM ENDS TIT 5/32 X 2-56 ENDS TIT 5/32 X 4-40 ENDS TIT 1/8” X 2MM ENDS TIT 1/8 X 2.5MM ENDS TIT 1/8 X 2-56 END TIT 3/16” X 2.5MM ENDS TIT 3/16” X 3MM ENDS TIT 3/16 X 4-40 ENDS TIT 3/16 X 6-32 ENDS TIT 3/16 X 8-32 ENDS TIT .210 X 3MM ENDS TIT .210 X 4-40 ENDS TIT .210 X 6-32 ENDS TIT DEPS 4-40

TITANIUM PUSHROD ENDS

$15.95 $15.95 $15.95 $15.95 $15.95 $14.95 $14.95 $14.95 $16.95 $16.95 $16.95 $16.95 $16.95 $16.95 $18.85 $18.85 $8.97 $8.97 $8.97 $8.97 $8.97 $8.75 $8.75 $8.75 $8.97 $8.97 $8.97 $8.97 $8.97 $9.25 $9.25 $9.25 $4.87

WIL BYERS

hope you like this month’s cover design. We’ve been trying to “amp” up our covers a bit to give them more visibility on newsstands and in hobby shops. We also want to underscore some of the outstanding models and products that we have the opportunity to review and share with you. As always, give us your feedback about what you like and don’t like. After all, we’re here to make the hobby more fun and exciting for you. In some small way, we hope the covers aid in that. How are you doing this month with your building/assembly projects? The weather here in Richland, Washington has turned for the worse, so my flying buddies and I are pretty much stuck indoors. However, I must tell you that I had a great time at the local club’s Chili Chilly Fun Fly. Even with the temperature hovering around 29 degrees it was fun to fly with the local pilots. Back in my shop I’m finishing up some projects that we’ll get in front of you next month or the month after. So, please stay tuned for my flight report on the AeroWorks 40%-scale Carbon Cub. I’ve made a few changes to it that you just might be interested in learning about. Also, I’ll be flying the new E-flite® Mystique 2.9-m-wingspan ARF limited motor run (LMR) glider, as well as Esprit Model’s very nicely made 2.4-m Albatros LMR machine. Both of these are outstanding picks for the upcoming altitude limited electric soaring (ALES) season, which promises to be a huge part of the soaring community going forward. We’ll also give you some additional in-depth looks into the latest telemetry and stabilization systems that are quickly becoming part of the RC hobby. Finally, I learned the other day that we’ll be getting a new Flame Wheel 550 six-rotor machine. We’ll give you a serious look at this heli, plus you’ll get the inside scoop on how to set it up to make it useable as a camera platform. It seems we’ll have an exciting summer of projects and content in future issues. How To This month we’ve included four how-to articles in the issue. All of them are very interesting pieces. The one that just blows the doors off my cockpit—as someone who loves scale airplanes—is Rob Caso’s cockpit build article. Rob takes you into his shop to show you exactly what it takes to create a model airplane cockpit that will have the guys at the airfield and at the model shows saying, “How did he do that?” The reality, as Rob explains, is that it is pretty easy, if you have the patience to do the work required. Give this one a read. You’ll be glad you did, especially when you’ve completed your first scale cockpit. You’ll also enjoy the articles about painting propellers, lighting up a helicopter for night flying and making floats for a little fun fly model. These are pieces that give you the details on how to put more fun into your hobby. Again, don’t miss them. Practice Okay, so I’ve told you to build airplanes as a way to have fun. However, the real fun is in flying them. That said, let me use this bully pulpit to tell you to PRACTICE! You know, before I jumped into this editor in chief’s position I used to fly my gliders pretty much three times a week. Yes, I do know I’m obsessive compulsive, but that aside, practice does help hone your skills. I think this is especially important if you really want to be able to fly your models with authority, as well as if you want to save a lot of money in lost airplanes or repair costs. Here are some suggestions I have: One, buy a good simulator. Then use it. The latest version of RealFlight 6.5 will let you fly anything from a beautiful scale machine to a high-performance slope soarer. Because winter is staring most of us pilots that live in the northern climes square in the face, using a good simulator is an excellent way to both have fun and keep your reflexes in shape. Two, try to get out to the airfield at least a couple of times a month. While a simulator is good practice, flying the real thing will keep you sharp. Three, buy an inexpensive airplane that you can use for practice. If you look at some of the best pilots in the world, they often fly foamy airplanes for practice. Suggestion four is the most important of all. Fly with friends and other good pilots. They will help you stay enthused about flying RC. Moreover, they will see what you are doing wrong and help right your piloting mistakes—that is, if you ask and they are honest with you. So, until next month, keep your battery packs charged and a smile on your face. See you then.

APC Competition propellers for the intermediate and

advanced sport ﬂyer as well as the competition community. Over 400 pitch/diameters available ranging from slow-ﬂyer electric to High performance Giant Scale Racers.

Visit the APC Prop Website for product selection and detailed information on product design and features.

LANDING PRODUCTS All propellers are in stock and overnight delivery is available. Proudly made in the USA

RC SPORT FLYER — February 2013

1222 Harter Ave., Woodland, CA 95776 (530) 661-0399 est. 1989 by Mr. Fred Burgdorf

Don’t Fly with Fakes Fly with the NEW Spektrum™ AR400 – Original DSMX® Technology for just $29.99 Imitation leather. Imitation diamonds. Imitation Swiss watches. All cost less than the real thing, but you get what you pay for: a fake of inferior quality. Cheap imitations of Spektrum equipment are no different. You risk more than the money you saved, and you’ll have about as much luck getting service after the sale as you would from the guy selling watches on the corner. For just $29.99, the full-range, 4-channel Spektrum AR400 receiver gives you all the benefits of genuine DSMX technology, plus the long–range signal clarity of an active amplified antenna. Because the AR400 is original Spektrum equipment, you’ll also enjoy the unbeatable service and support of Horizon Hobby. And that’s one thing nobody can imitate. Don’t fly a fake. Stick with the original. Go to spektrumrc.com now to learn more about the AR400.

VISIT

Your Local Retailer

CLICK

horizonhobby.com

CALL

1.800.338.4639

SERIOUS FUN™.

©2012 Horizon Hobby, Inc. The Horizon Hobby logo is a trademark of Horizon Hobby, Inc. DSMX is a trademark of Horizon Hobby, Inc., registered in the U.S. The Spektrum trademark is used with permission of Bachmann Industries, Inc. Patent pending. 37439.3

100cc Carbon Cub 168” WINGSPAN

VISIT US ON FACEBOOK

NEW ARF

Bravata

112” WINGSPAN 30cc Gas Float Ready!

LIGHT SERIES

Sport Cub S2 110” WINGSPAN 50cc Gas

Freestyle 260 52” WINGSPAN Electric

Cessna 195

35cc Extra 300 Wing Span: 78” Weight: 13-15 lbs Engine: 35cc-45cc Gas Engine: 1.60-2.20 Glow

79” WINGSPAN 30cc Gas

90” WINGSPAN 1.80 Glow to 30cc Gas

$499.95 PLUS S&H

50cc Pitts Python ARF

YAK 54 .90-1.20

86” WINGSPAN 50cc Gas

70” WINGSPAN 1725 SQ. IN. WING AREA

72” WINGSPAN

$379.95

P-51D Mustang

PLUS S&H

$729.95

50cc ,100cc, 150cc Extra 300

PLUS S&H

.46-.61 EDGE

$699.95 $1099.95 $1995.95

540T ARF

Edge 540 30cc, 50cc & 100cc 150cc Coming Soon!

60” WINGSPAN

PLUS S&H

$189.95

Extra 260

PLUS S&H

50cc , 75cc, 100cc & 150cc 84” WINGSPAN $629.95 PLUS S&H

30cc Extra 300 & Edge 540

96” WINGSPAN

$795.95

74” WINGSPAN 30cc Gas 1.60-1.80 Glow

PLUS S&H

104” WINGSPAN

$949.95 PLUS S&H

122” WINGSPAN $1895.95

YAK 54

50cc, 85cc, 100cc, 150cc

88” WINGSPAN

106” WINGSPAN

$699.95

$1049.95

PLUS S&H

Ultimate 20-300

50cc 100cc 150cc 30cc Coming Soon 68” WINGSPAN $699.95 PLUS S&H

84” WINGSPAN

94” WINGSPAN

$1195.95 $2195.95 PLUS S&H

PLUS S&H

.46 & .61 Profile Extra 260

100cc Yak 55M 108” WINGSPAN

48” & 56” WINGSPAN

NEW PRODUCTS!

50cc Yak 55M 86” WINGSPAN 50cc Gas

Mustang P-51D Gunfighter 86” WINGSPAN 50cc Gas

Gas, Glow & Electric Ready!

Mustang P-51B 86” WINGSPAN 50cc Gas

VISIT OUR ONLINE STORE Be sure to visit our website for all your shopping needs.

www.aero-works.net

.60-.90 Extra 260, 300 & Yak 54 Cessna LC-126

90” WINGSPAN 30cc Gas & 1.80 Glow Float Ready!

CheckMate 70” WINGSPAN 50cc Gas

303-371- 4222

Email: info@aero-works.net 4903 Nome Street • Denver, CO 80239

Aeroworks 50-cc Mustang P-51D Gunfighter

AeroWorks 4903 Nome Street Denver, CO 80239 Phone: 303-371-4222 aero-works.net

eroworks has added the New 50-cc P-51D Mustang Gunfighter to their line of Quick Build Series aircraft. The Mustang P-51 was designed from the ground up to provide a true-to-scale model with preinstalled main retracts, retractable tail wheel and complete air system. Functional inner and outer main and tail wheel gear doors are set from the factory for scale operation. Sequencer, air valves and valve servos are also preinstalled. Scale hinging, hidden control servos, a sliding canopy and the scale cockpit finish off the highly pre-fabricated model. The large wing and flaps make it very stable and easy to fly. Sleek lines, rugged good looks and instant nostalgia are sure to make the Mustang your favorite model. • • • •

• Adjustable pushrods with centering nut • Machined aluminum engine stand offs included • Professionally covered in Ultracote™ • Extra Ultracote covering provided for small repairs • Scale lines with custom cockpit • Pre-mounted fiberglass cowl • Preinstalled and fuel-proofed engine box • Laser-cut engine mounting templates provided

Specifications Wingspan

86 in.

Wing Area

1359 in.2

Length

70 in. (rudder to cowl) 75 in. (rudder to spinner)

Weight

22–24 lb

Cowl Width

6 in.

Engine

50-cc

Radio

6-channel +

Price

$1849.95

• Custom throw meter included • 12–15 hours assembly time

Strong, lightweight construction Detailed instruction manual on CD Bomb and tank drops included Complete high-quality SAE hardware package included

Taiwan Tornado Electrical Magnetic Brake System

Fan Jets USA 51285 Bittersweet Rd, Suite G Granger, IN 46530 Phone: 877-538-3268 fanjetsusa.com

aiwan Tornado’s electromagnetic energy control aircraft brake system is replacing and reshaping the traditional pneumatic and server remote control aircraft braking system. The innovative brake system allows easier installation and offers better distance control when landing without adding extra flying weight.

The brake system operates on an input voltage of 7.2–30 V. It can tap directly into the aircraft battery or use an external battery of 7.2–30 V. You can adjust the capacity by turning the brake controller clockwise to increase the power or counterclockwise to decrease the power. The yellow control box plugs into an auxiliary port on the receiver. The leads from the brakes in the wheels connect to the yellow control box. The tires are constructed of the same rubber that automobile tires are made of. This leads to improved traction upon landing and taxiing on the tarmac. The 45-mm aircraft braking wheel set includes:

• • • •

45-mm braking wheel (2) 35-mm braking wheel (1) Brake controller 5-mm screw for installation

Price: $59.99

RC SPORT FLYER — February 2013

HOT PRODUCTS

Aeroworks 50cc Yak 55M

AeroWorks 4903 Nome Street Denver, CO 80239 Phone: 303-371-4222 aero-works.net

eroworks is proud to add the new 50-cc Yak 55M to their line of Quick Build Series aircraft. Designed to provide the best-looking and -performing Yak 55 to date, the new Yak 55M has been designed to outperform any other Yak on the market. The minimal mixing and aileron differential required to achieve perfect flight create the truest-flying Yak ever! The 50-cc Yak 55M is a true QB offering high-quality, lightweight construction and the fastest build time possible. • • • • • • • • • • •

• Large control surfaces double beveled for maximum throw • Pre-mounted fiberglass cowl and wheel pants • Flush fit cowling • Dummy engine baffling with alignment jig • Pre-mounted and tinted canopy • Universal engine mounting template provided • Fuel tank and hardware • Preinstalled and fuel-proofed engine box • Custom throw meter included • 10–12 hours assembly time

Specifications Wingspan

70 in.

Wing Area

1525 in.2

Length

64 in.

Weight

16.5–18 lb

Engine

50–60-cc gas

Radio

6-channel +

Price

$729.95

Canister and pipe ready Detailed instruction manual on CD Strong and light tail wheel Complete high-quality SAE hardware package included Adjustable pushrods with centering nut Machined aluminum engine stand offs included Carbon-reinforced wing spar design to increase wing strength Carbon wing and stab tubes Professionally covered in Ultracote™ Extra Ultracote covering provided for small repairs Slot-style hinges preinstalled from factory

Hitec Universal Balancing Board

Hitec RCD 12115 Paine Street Poway, CA 92064 Phone: 858-748-6948 hitecrcd.com

itec’s universal balancing adapter works with all Hitec X and H series of chargers and includes EH, TP, XH and HP balancing ports. It allows you to balance all major brands of lithium chemistry batteries while charging, with no need for additional adapters. Unlike other adapters that use a piece of foam, Hitec’s Universal Balancing Board features a hard, plastic case.

• Works with all Hitec X and H series of chargers • Balances all major brands of lithium chemistry batteries • Compatible with 2S–6S packs Price $15.99 Stock # 44178

RC-SF.COM

Ares™ Gamma 370 Pro

Firelands Group, LLC ares-RC.com

he Ares™ [air-eez] Gamma 370 Pro offers the stability and durability of the original Gamma 370 while also delivering full fourchannel control and aerobatic capability experienced sport flyers will enjoy. The advanced EPO foam airframe design is not only lightweight, durable and easy to repair, it also arrives factory assembled and nearly ready to fly right out of the box so you can be flying at a local park, schoolyard or flying field in almost no time at all. The Gamma 370 Pro is RFR (Ready For Receiver) and includes a factory-installed 370 brushless motor, 18-amp brushless ESC and three 9-gram sub-micro servos. It’s ready for you to install a 4+ channel receiver compatible with your favorite transmitter and includes two propeller options for use with 2S 7.4-V or 3S 11.1-V 800–1300mAh LiPo batteries. Best of all it’s available at a price that offers unbelievable value and makes it hard for almost any pilot to resist. The factory-installed brushless power system is quiet, efficient and powerful,

Anylink Adapter CableSpektrum Deans Micro

Great Planes P.O. Box 9021 Champaign, IL 61821 Phone: 800-637-7660 greatplanes.com

his adapter cable features a micro connector for a two-cell LiPo or LiFe battery, allowing users to choose their favorite

RC SPORT FLYER — February 2013

delivering great performance and long flight times with 2S 7.4-V and unlimited vertical performance with 3S 11.1-V LiPo batteries. Coupled to smooth and precise aileron, elevator and rudder controls, the Gamma 370 Pro is capable of all basic and even advanced four-channel aerobatics including point rolls, rolling circles, knife edge and more. Whether you’re looking for a great first four-channel model or a durable and fully aerobatic park flyer, there’s no better choice and no better value than the Gamma 370 Pro.

Specifications Wingspan

37 in. (940 m)

Length

30.6 in. (775 mm)

Weight w/ Battery

16.0–17.5 oz (455–495 g)

Battery

800–1300mAh 2S 7.4-V or 3S 11.1-V LiPo (required)

Radio

4+ channels

Stock #

AZS1252

chemistry and capacity. It works with many Spektrum and JR transmitters, providing a flexible, more affordable alternative to the TACM0005 cable with built-in LiFe battery.

DX18 transmitters, but works with many Spektrum and JR models • Requires a two-cell LiPo or LiFe with Deans Micro connector

• Equipped with a Deans Micro connector • Designed for DX4e, DX7s, DX8, DX10t and

Price: $2.99 Stock # TACM0008

HOT PRODUCTS

Dualsky Hornet 460 Quad-copter

Graupner MC-20 HoTT Transmitter

2dogrc’s RC Warehouse Contact: Mark Grohe Phone: 800-517-2810 ext 1 2dogrc.com

Graupner-USA 7350 South Tamiami Tr, Suite 80 Sarasota, FL 34231 Phone: 941-925-9653 graupner-usa.com

he MC-20 HoTT is a hand-held and traytype transmitter with 12 control functions and a new internal patch aerial that enables advanced RC model builders to control nearly any model. Graupner HoTT 2.4-GHz transmission technology ensures highly functional reliability through bidirectional communication between sender and receiver, with integrated telemetry, voice output via speaker or headphone output and ultra-fast controller response times. The transmitter has a 24-model memory. Programming is done through simplified programming technology with capacitative touch keys. Two high-contrast, eight-line blue-lit graphical displays ensure a perfect

Helicopter Hobbies Flybarless System

Helicopter Hobbies P.O. Box 92 Matthews, NC 28106 helicopterhobbies.com

elicopter Hobbies’ Flybarless System is easy to set up. It takes just three minutes to finish all set-up procedures, resulting in reliable and stable performance. Follow us on twitter @rcsportflyer

ired of toy quad-copters but don’t want to invest thousands? The Dualsky Hornet 460 is the solution! The 460-mm-long quadcopter comes 90% assembled. The motors are mounted, the ESCs wired and even the LEDs preinstalled along the arms. Dualsky boasts a 30-min box-to-flight guarantee. Included are four Dualsky 830-Kv 2830 motors and four 9 x 4.7 propellers. The front propellers are white, while the rear propellers are black. This helps orientate the quad along with the help of the LEDs—white in the front, red in the rear—that come preinstalled! A flight

Specifications Length

460 mm

Weight

730 g

Motor

830-Kv Dualsky XM2830CAHornet (4)

Battery

1700–3300-mAh 11.1-V (required)

Price

$279.99

guidance controller is also included with easy-to-understand instructions. The default settings work out of the box with no tweaking or guessing needed. Want to go crazy? Just flip your gear switch and now you can flip and roll all night and day. If you have never flown a quad or just want a fun quad to fly, pick one up along with a 2200-mAh or 3300-mAh 11.1V Mad Dog battery at 2dogrc.com.

display of all parameter settings and telemetry data. It is possible to store telemetry data and expand the model memories on a micro-SD memory card. A USB connector is included for readout and storage of model memories and for firmware upgrades.

Specifications

• • • • •

•

Simple, extremely fast binding Range test and warning function Low-voltage warning Extremely broad receiver operating voltage from 3.6–8.4 V Binding of any number of receivers for channel expansion (max of 32 channels) Up to four servos can be controlled as a block with a signal repetition time of 10 ms Telemetry analysis in real time Over 200 systems can be used simultaneously

Control Function

Weight

1400 g

Range

3000 m

Dimensions

235 x 228 x 66 mm

Charging Rate

400 mAh

Price

$989.87

The system’s working voltage is 3.5–8.5 V, with a 2S li-poly battery recommended. The built-in swashplate controller can be adjusted for 90, 120 or 140 degrees, and the tail and swashplate servos can be set at four different frequencies. The Flybarless System offers plenty of options in a 34 x 29 x 12-mm package. Price: $99.99 Stock # BGL007-007 RC-SF.COM

Jeti Duplex DS16 Finalized

Esprit Model 1240 Clearmont St NE, Unit 12 Palm Bay, FL 32905 Phone: 321-729-4287 espritmodel.com

eti USA is proud to announce that they have settled all the details for the DS-16 radio system. The final version of the Jeti Duplex DS-16 is even better than expected. Two RF modules and three antennas offer improved reception. One of the modules has 2x antennas; this way all broadcasting angles are covered. The LCD case is made of smooth black plastic so that there are no shielded spots.

Jeti Duplex R6L/R6i/R5L/ R5i 2.4-GHz Receivers

Esprit Model 1240 Clearmont St NE, Unit 12 Palm Bay, FL 32905 Phone: 321-729-4287 espritmodel.com

rand new Jeti Duplex 2.4-GHz R6L, R6i, R5L and R5i receivers just showed up. All of them are full range with built-in telemetry. The R6i and R5i are recommend for smaller park flyers/indoor models and 450-size helicopters due to the short 50-mm antenna. Â Jeti R5 receivers were developed as classic five-channel receivers with an additional

RC SPORT FLYER â&#x20AC;&#x201D; February 2013

auxiliary port to be used as an add-on to R18, R14, R11, R9 and R7 receivers (plugged to the SAT port). They are sort of sat/remote/auxiliary receivers. With R5L and R5i you have two receivers in one for an excellent value. R6i Mini Receiver $69.00

R6L Mini Receiver $69.00 R5i Full/Aux Receiver R5L Full/Aux Receiver

$65.00 $65.00

HOT PRODUCTS

Jeti Spin Pro 80/100/160A SHED ESCs w/5A BEC

Esprit Model 1240 Clearmont St NE, Unit 12 Palm Bay, FL 32905 Phone: 321-729-4287 espritmodel.com

fter talking for the past three months with Jeti engineers, Esprit Model received brand-new Jeti Spin Pro 80A, 100A and 160A SHED (Slim/Hotliner/Electric Ducted Fan) slim design ESCs, which are an excellent solution for narrow fuselages. Fully programmable, they are all good up to eight servos with 5-A/5.5-V switching BEC, built-in data logger and very narrow, 27-mm wide architecture.

Any Spin controller can be used in airplanes, sailplanes and fix-pitch or 3D helicopters (constant RPM). In addition to the competitive pricing, all Jeti products have a two-year warranty and 50% replacement policy. Jeti Spin 80 Jeti Spin 100 Jeti Spin 160

$120.00 $135.00 $175.00

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RC-SF.COM

BY Jerry Smith

Atlanta Memorial Warbirds Rally How One Club Brings Together a Gaggle of Warbirds

he sixth annual Atlanta Memorial Warbirds Rally, hosted by the Georgia Model Aviators (GMA) was held over the weekend of November 1â&#x20AC;&#x201C;3, 2012. It was a superb weekend of flying. The Georgia Model Aviators played host to 45 pilots. They came to the event from all over the southeast, with one entrant coming in from New Jersey and another from Texas. It was a good mix of pilots. The wind was gusty on Friday, but

RC SPORT FLYER â&#x20AC;&#x201D; February 2013

Saturday turned out to be absolutely perfect for flying. Rex Briant, the contest director, and his club member volunteers ran a well-organized event. They hosted a fundraiser raffle for the American Lung Cancer Association during the event with prizes provided by Meister Models, Solo Props and Horizon Hobby to name a few. As a result, a check for $1600 was given to the association. This is good stuff! What you may want to know and

possibly emulate is that the GMA is a private membership club. The president is John Singer. He presides over 260-plus members. The club now has one of the premier flying sites in the southeast. It is located in Ballground, Georgia, which is just 50 miles from Atlanta. The airfield sits on 66 acres of land. It has 22 sheltered workbenches and an 800-ft Asphalt runway that is paralleled by a Bermuda grass runway. It has all the amenities of a modern RC airfield.

Atlanta Memorial Warbirds Rally

Gary Mills came all the way from Texas to fly his modified Meister Scale Corsair. It was powered by a five-cylinder Moki radial.

Forest Morris of South Carolina flew his Storch, which was built by Slick Larsen. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a G-38 scale model and weighs about 20 lb.

Garyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s F4U Corsair came loaded for war with rockets and bombs. The Moki engine gave it a true radial engine sound in the air too!

RC-SF.COM

Rich Smith of Florida flew his Meister Scale BF109G many times during the event. It is powered with a DA-85 engine that swings a Xoar 26 x 12 propeller.

Pedro Sanchez of Georgia flew this super-looking Meister Scale P-47 that is powered by a BME 116in.2 engine that turns a Solo three-blade propeller. It has Sierra retracts and wheels, plus 14 servos for its functions. Forest Morris brought and flew his Ziroli P-51B, which is powered by a G-62 engine that turns a 22 x 12 propeller. Its all-up weight is 21 lb.

Wayne Fussell of Florida flew this special Ziroli Douglas Dauntless as a tribute to Dino Digorgioâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s dad, who started building it some years ago. It is powered by a GT80 and weighs 45 lb.

Scott Duggan came all the way from Louisiana to fly his Ziroli AT6. It is powered by a G-62 engine. Scott lost it on landing when a gust of wind caught its wing.

RC SPORT FLYER â&#x20AC;&#x201D; February 2013

Atlanta Memorial Warbirds Rally The largest aircraft at the event was this beautiful B-25, built and flown by Pedro Sanchez. Pedro scratch-built it from Ziroli plans—120-in. wingspan, 50 lb and lots of scale features and details!

Pedro shows us just how large his well-built B-25 is as he holds it up for the camera. Just look at the guns, propeller, rivets, etc.

Mike Chilson of Alabama brought this unusal Heinkel HE 219, which he built from a set of Vangard plans. It is powered by two150 electric motors.

Mike’s model uses eight-cell packs for each motor. We dig the crazy worm-crawling camouflage finish and the antennas on the front.

The inset shows what happened to Scott’s AT6 on its landing approach. The model is repairable but will take some work to fix.

RC-SF.COM

This site lets the club promote the RC hobby and encourage model aviation in the community. As with most sites this size, on any day you can see every type of airplane from a little foamy to a 40%-scale IMAC airplane, and even turbines sometimes. What happened at the Atlanta Memorial Warbirds Rally is best

relayed with photos. Suffice it to say it was a superb event with many flights. Our club is already planning for the 2013 event, which will be held November 7 through 9. So weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re inviting you and your friends to come share in the fun at Ballground. Point your browser at gmarc.com for information about this upcoming event and others. I hope to see you there.

Brian Cabrera of Alabama flew this great-looking Jerry Bates SBD Dauntless that is powered by a G-62 and weighs 26 lb.

Pat Manville of Georgia flew his Slick Larsen Albatros many times. It is powered by a G-38 and is covered with seconite and doped. The fuselage is stained to simulate the plywood covering. Frank Fels of New Jersey drove all this way to fly his Balsa USA 1/3-scale Fokker D7 at our event. It is painted with latex. Frank is the current IMAA president.

RC SPORT FLYER â&#x20AC;&#x201D; February 2013

Atlanta Memorial Warbirds Rally

John Mueller of Georgia built this lovely 1/3-scale Albatros from a German kit. It is powered by a G-62 that is married to a belt drive system.

The bird swings a 34 x 20 propeller at 2900 rpm and weighs 39 lb. Engine problems kept this super-looking Albatros on the ground.

The engine detailing on Johnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Albatros is exceptional. It included everything down to wrapping the intakes and valve rockers.

Dick Konkle of Georgia was given this Balsa USA Sopwith Pup by Fred Chastain before Fred passed away. It is powered with a Fuji 64 and weighs 37 lb.

Here is a gaggle of great-looking Meister Scale warbirds that are lined up ready to do their time in the air. Follow us on twitter @rcsportflyer

Gale Throne of Georgia flew his new Balsa USA 1/4-scale Spad. It flies on an 80-in wingspan and weighs 19 lb ready to fly. RC-SF.COM

By Jeff Troy

Dallaire Sportster Fuselage, Part III It’s Easy. It’s Fun. It’s Rewarding. It’s Yours!

he Dallaire Sportster is a 108-in. old-timer design. This majestic model is kitted by Shive Specialties and sold exclusively through Penn Valley Hobby Center in Lansdale, Pennsylvania (pennvalleyhobbycenter.com). Framing the basic fuselage box and upper-rear section were shown in the December 2012 issue of RC Sport Flyer, and the lower section, deck sheeting, cowl blocks and soldering the landing gear were shown in the January 2013 issue. Construction of the fuselage concludes now. Many modelers wait until an airframe is completely constructed and covered before turning their attention to the fuel tank and radio gear, but I find these items far more convenient to install correctly before the model has been covered. It’s only logical that locating servo rails, running pushrod sleeves, fitting the fuel tank and arranging the control linkages will be easier to do when there is no skin on the model to impede your access to its innards. The Dallaire is a large model with gobs of wing area. It’s relatively

light and flies slowly, so powerhouse servos aren’t a necessity. I chose a trio of ST47BB servos from JR® SPORT. These are standard-size, ball-bearing servos with 47 oz-in. of torque and more than enough transit speed for an extremely lazy model that responds somewhat slowly to control inputs. My receiver choice is the full-range Spektrum® AR500,

which is also a slight overkill for this basic, three-channel model. No servo extensions were needed, and I rounded out my radio gear with a Spektrum 4.8-V NiCd flat-pack and a JR Chargeswitch (JRPA004). Three servos in a side-by-side configuration behind the fuel tank bay seemed like a a good choice for the Dallaire. The Fox Falcon

2 Use a servo to gauge the distance between the servo rails. Don’t install them too tightly together. You’ll want to be able to install and remove the servos without crushing, kinking or otherwise damaging the servo wires.

RC SPORT FLYER — February 2013

After the rails are installed, give them added support with lengths of triangle strip. Install the strips with quick-setting epoxy that gives you enough working time but doesn’t take too long to set.

Dallaire Sportster Fuselage, Part III

4 You can’t beat Ernst Pushrod Exits for a neat appearance when using Sullivan Gold-N-Rod pushrod guide tubes. These Ernst #105 Large (blue rod) parts are available at storefront shops and from Internet suppliers.

A cutting template is provided on the header card of the Ernst exits, which you’ll find handy. Use the template to prepare two 1/8-in. balsa sheets for the tail section of the fuselage.

6 The side sheets are shown installed, with the recesses cut for the exit guides. Note that the sheet shown here has not yet been sanded flush with the fuselage’s frame.

.60’s carburetor arm is on the right-hand side of the engine, so the throttle servo went on the right side of the fuselage. I like a crossed-swords approach to rudder and elevator pushrods. The rudder horn is mounted on the left side of this model and the elevator horn is on the right, so I mounted the rudder servo in the center and the elevator servo on the left side of the arrangement. A length of 1/8 x 1/2-in. spruce is provided to make the servo rails, so measure and cut the two rails to the correct length to fit between the cabin sides. Determine where the servos will be mounted, then use gapfilling CA to install the forward rail. Hold the rear rail in the approximate position and slip one servo in Follow us on twitter @rcsportflyer

This image shows how the Ernst exit carries the blue Sullivan guide tube and fits into the balsa side sheeting. Again, the sheeting has not yet been sanded flush with the fuselage’s frame.

between the rails, then adjust the rear rail for a good fit. Good doesn’t mean tight. It means that the rails must be far enough apart to allow installation and removal of the servos without smashing the connecting wires, and that the holes for the mounting screws will hit both rails and not air. When you have the rear rail located, mark its position, remove the servo and install the rail with gap-filling CA. Finish the rail installation by cutting and fitting two pieces of triangle stock to reinforce the rail-to-cabin joints, and this time, install the triangles with five- or sixminute epoxy. I chose a pair of 48-in., semiflexible Gold-N-Rods® (#506) from Sullivan Products. These are the ones with the yellow pushrods and blue

guide tubes. They come with 2-56 threaded studs and two Gold-NClevises® with locking clips. I like clean exits, so I also chose a pair of Ernst Pushrod Exits for Sullivan Gold-N-Rod (#105). These attractive, hooded-nylon guides trap the Sullivan guide tubes at the rear of the fuselage—and you won’t have to dress an ugly balsa-to-nylon glue joint that can be difficult to sand and cover neatly. The Ernst exits come with a cutting template printed on the header card. Use this template to cut the 1/8-in. balsa sheeting you will install on both sides at the tail of the fuselage. Glue the side pieces in with gap-filling CA, then run the blue guide tubes into the fuselage from the rear with the Ernst exits RC-SF.COM

8 The blue guide tubes run through the fuselage from the tail to the servo bay. I cross them to keep their runs as straight as possible. Prevent the tubes from flexing by installing balsa supports at each fuselage station.

attached. Seat the exits firmly into the balsa sheeting and mark the blue tubes where they will need to be cut behind the rear servo rail. Don’t forget to cross the guide tubes for a straighter run and the least amount of strain on the pushrods. The blue tubes should be supported along their runs from the tail to the servo bay. Do this by fitting an 1/8 x 1/2-in. balsa scrap between the fuselage sides at each bulkhead station. Cut each stick to length, and mark the location of both tubes. Drill 3-16-in. holes for the tubes and clean the edges with a round file and fine sandpaper. When all the necessary supports have been cut to length and drilled, pull back the blue tubes and cut them to length. Now slowly

The radio’s switch harness must be mounted on the opposite side of a model’s engine exhaust port to prevent fouling it with exhaust residue. A balsa bezel was fashioned to support the switch beneath the airplane’s covering.

push the tubes forward through the fuselage, passing the tubes through each of the balsa supports as they travel toward the servo bay. Position each support to keep the tube runs as straight as possible, then glue them all into the fuselage structure with thin or gap-filling CA. With the Ernst nylon exits still firmly seated in the sheeting, glue the blue tubes to each of the supports, but not to the Ernst exits. The JR Chargeswitch is a relatively large switch with a built-in charge jack that hides behind a dirt-impeding sliding door. Only two leads come off the switch; one lead goes to the receiver and the other to the receiver battery. I cut a rectangular shape out of the inner plywood

fuselage side to allow the switch to pass. Then I laminated a pair of 1/8-in. balsa scraps to act as a bezel, raising the switch mounting area to just above the level of the fuselage side. Glue the bezel over the mounting area and sand it flush with the side frame. I plan to do a lot of thermal hunting with my Dallaire Sportster, so a high-capacity fuel tank to support a schedule of high speed and intense aerobatics is wholly unnecessary. I chose a simple Du-Bro 8-oz Fuel Tank (#408), which I will connect with Du-Bro Medium Fuel Line and protect from vibration with 1/4-in. RC Protective Foam Rubber, also from Du-Bro Products. In my last installment, I chose to

10 This bezel is laminated with two pieces of 1/8-in. scrap balsa to bring it above the level of the side sticks. You will want to glue it in with gap-filling CA, then sand it flush with the fuselage’s sides.

RC SPORT FLYER — February 2013

I think you’ll appreciate the top-end JR Chargeswitch as much as I do. The jack is protected from dust, dirt and debris by a sliding cover. Two leads exit the Chargeswitch—one to the receiver and one to the receiver battery.

Dallaire Sportster Fuselage, Part III

12 There’s nothing like Du-Bro 1/4-in. or 1/2-in. RC Protective Foam Rubber to protect airborne RC components and fuel tanks from crash damage and the negative effects of engine vibration transmitted into the airframe.

mount the Dallaire’s fuel tank in the forward fuselage bay under the wing, rather than cut through the engine mounting assembly and build a poorly accessible hatch in the forward deck ahead of the windshield. The problem now is how to support the fuel tank in that cavernous bay, but the solution is simple—just build a tank tray. Make a box from 1/8in. balsa sheet and support it from underneath with a pair of hard balsa rails between the fuselage sides. Lay the tank over the balsa sheeting and mark the sheeting for the length and width of the tank. Keep the width oversize because you are going to line the box on the bottom, both sides and the rear with

Build a three-sided box to carry the fuel tank. Measuring the dimensions is one way to do it, but simply laying the tank over a sheet of 1/8-in. balsa is quicker. Make it approximately 1-in. oversize to allow for the 1/4-in. foam liner.

1/4-in. foam rubber. Use foam-safe medium CA and activator to attach a foam pad to the box bottom, then cut the rear and two side pieces, attaching foam pads to each of those parts as well. Now glue the box parts together with the tank still inside to ensure that the parts all fit snugly around the tank. Glue the two supporting rails between the fuselage sides, then glue the tank box to the rails. Gap-filling CA should be fine here because this model will not be subjected to any undue stress in flight or at rest. I’m a neat bug, even inside a fuselage where most spectators never have occasion to look. As such, I don’t like to see unused output

arms coming off a servo, and if the unused arms were cut, I don’t like to see the ugly edges that remain after the diagonal cutters have done their work. My friends Don and Sue Dombrowski at House of Balsa (houseofbalsa.com) sell a fabulous product called the Tuf-Grind®. The Tuf-Grind is a 2-in.-diameter fiberglass-impregnated cutoff wheel that’s made for use with a rotary motor tool. It comes by itself (AC-04: $4.99) or in a combo package with a high-quality mandrel (AC-03: $5.99). The Tuf-Grind is also available in a 1-in. diameter (AC-02). It comes in a two-pack for $5.99. Use the diagonal cutters to clip off any unused arms on the servo

14 Use foam-safe gap-filling CA and accelerator to secure the cutand-fitted foam to the bottom, back and sides of the tank box. Build the box with the tank still inside to ensure a good fit but easy removal.

Two hard-balsa rails were installed in the lower fuselage to carry the tank box. Be sure to keep the box clear of the pushrods and the two brass-tube fuel tank extensions installed previously. You must also allow enough room in the forward cabin bay for the foam-wrapped receiver battery. RC-SF.COM

horn, then fit the Tuf-Grind into your rotary tool and run the tool at its lowest speed. Use gentle pressure to smooth the cut areas of the servo horn into a graceful flow with a neat appearance. You’ll like the way this works, and it’s one of those little tricks that will make you prouder of the work you’re doing and the fun you’re having. Mount the control horns on the rudder and elevator. I chose DuBro Large Scale “T-Style” Control Horns (#366). These horns come with a back plate and four mounting screws, but you won’t be using these for the Dallaire. Instead, drill 1/16in. pilot holes for the horn screws,

and mount the horns, replacing the Du-Bro machine screws with #4 x 3/8-in. sheet metal screws. Temporarily install a couple of hinges in each part, and use masking tape to hold the elevators to the horizontal stabilizer and the rudder to the vertical fin. Insert the fin dowel into the stabilizer and mount the whole empennage on the rear of the fuselage with a handful of T-pins. It’s time to prepare the two yellow pushrod tubes for the rudder and elevators. Flex won’t be a problem inside the fuselage because the ends of the tubes are close to the servo mounting area and the tubes are reinforced all along their travel by

those balsa supports. If pushrod flex could occur anywhere, it would be in the span between the Ernst exits and the control horns, but don’t let it worry you; you’re about to learn another trick. Sullivan Products and Du-Bro Products both sell lengths of plain music wire with 2-56 threaded ends. Du-Bro sells it in 12-in. and 36-in. lengths, and my memory says that Sullivan has packages of assorted lengths. Pick up a half-dozen pieces with two of them at least six inches long. Wind one of the Sullivan Gold-N-Clevises halfway down the threaded end of the rod, and attach the clevis to the rudder control

16 Check the servo arms’ neutral positions by having the radio system on. You’re not necessarily looking for the arms to be at 90 degrees to the servos, but you do want the arm-to-pushrod angle to be at 90 degrees. You’ll find that the splines on the servo output shaft will cause a change in the servo arm angle as you experiment with rotating the horn on the shaft. Determine which arm of the three will be used, then clip off the unused with diagonal cutters.

I use the House of Balsa 2-in. Tuf-Grind cutoff wheel in a rotary tool to smooth the cut edges and neatly finish the servo horns. It just cleans up the look of the installation and removes stress risers.

18 This part is ready to be installed. Clean up any flash from the TufGrind by “adzing” with the edge of a no. 11 blade. Adzing is a kind of sideways scraping, rather than cutting, with the blade.

RC SPORT FLYER — February 2013

Install the elevator and rudder control horns, and manually move the control surfaces into their approximate positions. The rudder is taped to the fuselage tail post. Thread a clevis onto the plain rod with a 2-56 threaded end. Attach the clevis to the control horn, then cut the rod approximately an inch short of the Ernst exit.

Dallaire Sportster Fuselage, Part III

20 Remove the clevis and insert the plain end of the rod into the end of the yellow pushrod tube.

Use a Du-Bro Threaded Stud Driver to wind the threaded end of the rod approximately halfway into the yellow pushrod tube. The Stud Driver is a handy device with 2-56 threads in one end and 4-40 threads in the opposite end. It lets you wind pushrod studs without buggering the threads or wire with pliers or vise grips.

22 Run the yellow pushrod through the blue carrier tube in the fuselage and reattach the clevis to the rudder horn. The reason for the length of wire in the rear of the yellow tube is to prevent flexing of the pushrod between the Ernst exit and the control horn. It’s easily done, and it works.

horn. Swing the rod toward and past the Ernst exit, and mark the rod approximately one inch behind the exit, then cut off the end of the rod at that mark. Remove the rod-and-clevis assembly from the rudder horn and insert the plain end of the rod into one of the 48-in. yellow pushrod tubes. Most modelers use pliers to twist the threaded portion of the rod into the pushrod, but Du-Bro has a cleaner and better solution. The Du-Bro Threaded Stud Driver (#504) is a knurled-aluminum tool that accepts a 2-56 threaded rod in one side and 4-40 threaded rod in the other. Remove the Gold-N-Clevis and wind the Stud Driver down over Follow us on twitter @rcsportflyer

Mark the servo end of the yellow pushrod tube where it exits the blue carrier tube and where it crosses the servo horn, then disconnect the clevis from the control horn and pull the yellow pushrod back out of the fuselage.

the threaded end of the rod you inserted into the yellow tube. Now use the Stud Driver to get at least eight threads buried solidly into the yellow pushrod tube. Reinstall the clevis and insert the plain end of the yellow tube into the Ernst exit. Push it all the way forward into the servo bay. Reattach the clevis to the rudder horn and note that the metal rod inside the yellow tube is now completely eliminating any possibility of flex in the yellow tube between the exit and the rudder horn. Mission accomplished. At the servo end, the yellow tube has not been cut to length and extends past the servo. Mark the yellow tube at each of two

locations—one where the yellow tube exits the blue tube and another where the yellow tube crosses the output arm on the servo horn. Remove the yellow tube and prepare to finalize the rudder pushrod. Find another of those Sullivan or Du-Bro plain rods with the threaded ends. Cut the plain end so that 10 or more threads can be buried inside the first mark on the yellow rod and enough of the plain end will extend approximately 3/4-in. past the servo horn mark. Cut the yellow tube and insert the threaded end of the rod. The Stud Driver won’t help you here because you’re working with the rod’s plain end out instead of the threaded end, so get out the pliers, RC-SF.COM

24 Cut another length of plain rod with a threaded end to wind approximately 10-12 threads deep into the yellow tube and extend approximately 3/4 in. past the mark for the servo horn. Cut the excess length away from the yellow tube by rolling it under your hobby knife. You don’t have to cut through the tube with the blade, just score it using moderate pressure on the knife handle as you roll the tube beneath it. Pick up the tube and flex it back and forth a time or two at the score line, and the unwanted excess will cleanly break away. Use pliers to wind the threaded end of the rod into the pushrod tube.

A 12-in. drill bit works well for getting holes into firewalls and rearward bulkheads that can’t be reached with standard-length drills. Use a long, 3/16-in. drill to prepare for inserting the blue carrier tube for the throttle pushrod.

26 The throttle pushrod is fashioned in the same manner as the rudder and elevator pushrods, except that the front end of the rod will use a nylon clevis to connect to the metal throttle arm of the carburetor. We know that 2.4-GHz radios don’t suffer from metal-to-metal jitters, but it’s still good practice to avoid metalto-metal contact everywhere possible. After all, you may not be using a 2.4-GHz system, or you may want to pass your model along to someone who isn’t using one.

and try not to bugger up the rod too badly as you thread it into the yellow tube. Follow the same procedure to assemble the elevator pushrod, then insert both pushrods through the blue carrier tubes. The Dallaire is a .60-size airplane, and many modelers shy away from barrel-style pushrod connectors on models of this size. This is primarily because the side load that a pushrod places on such connectors can cause the connector 32

RC SPORT FLYER — February 2013

Turn the radio system on, and center its sticks and trims once again. Manually center the elevator panels and rudder, and tighten the cap screws in the Kwik Grip E/Z Connectors. Check the radio for the correct connections from the servos to the receiver and for the correct direction of the control surfaces in response to your stick commands.

pin to bend and eventually fail. I agree with the logic, but the Dallaire will not be subjected to the same strain as a heavier, aerobatic airplane moving at greater speeds, so in this case, I am confident in the Du-Bro Kwik-Grip E/Z Connector (#608). No enlargement of the hole in the output arm was needed to fit the E/Z Connector, and I chose the press-on rubber retainer over the metal snap ring. The throttle pushrod is assembled

in a similar manner to the rudder and elevator pushrods using leftover blue and yellow pieces from the tail rods. A 12-in. long 3/16-in. drill bit comes in very handy for drilling the holes to run the blue tube through the plywood firewall and the #2 upper bulkhead. Insert the blue tube so it’s approximately 1/2 in. ahead of the firewall, then cut the opposite end off approximately 3 in. from the servo arm. Use the Stud Driver to thread a stud into one end of the

Dallaire Sportster Fuselage, Part III

28 The Dallaire’s radio and tank bays are shown with the receiver and fuel tank in their boxes, and the 4.8-V flat receiver battery wrapped in foam and wedged between the throttle guide tube and the fuselage side. Note that a second foam-lined box was built and installed to accommodate the Spektrum AR500 receiver.

yellow pushrod, and thread a small Du-Bro Nylon Clevis halfway onto the stud. Use another plain rod with a threaded end at the servos side of the pushrod, and run the completed yellow rod assembly through the blue guide tube. Connect the nylon clevis to the throttle arm of the carburetor and temporarily install the engine with just one or two mounting screws. Use another E/Z Connector at the servo end. Radios that operate on 2.4 GHz aren’t troubled by metal-to-metal “noise,” but I’m from the old school, where most of the old-school habits die hard. Besides, you may still be using a system on 72 or even 27 MHz, so follow this easy guideline.

The last step of the Dallaire’s fuselage preparation is to drill through the four balsa gussets for the 1/4-in. wing hold-down dowels. Prevent jagged edges and splitting of the gussets by using a 3/16-in. drill, then bringing the hole to 1/4 in. with a round file.

Whenever you have to connect a clevis to a metal arm, such as the ones found on a carburetor, exhaust baffle or some hydraulic cylinders, just choose a nylon clevis instead of a metal one. That’s easy enough, but here’s one more tip. You’re going to enjoy working with nylon clevises a lot more if you run them through a time or two with a 2-56 tap. Drop the fuel tank into its vibration-protective box. Build and install a similar box for the receiver on one side of the cabin interior. Connect the servo and switch leads to the receiver, and put the receiver into its box. Wrap the receiver battery in protective foam rubber, place the battery in the cabin and connect it to the switch lead. Bind the receiver and transmitter (if on 2.4 GHz) and check all the servos for the correct connection and direction. You’re almost finished. The last step is to drill the four gussets in the sides of the fuselage to

accept the 1/4-in. diameter wing hold-down dowels. Cut the dowels to extend at least 1-1/4 in. past the sides, then round their edges for a neatly finished appearance. Keep the adhesive on the shelf. You won’t install these dowels until the model has been covered and/or painted. Well, that’s it for another installment. The Sig Spacewalker II wing panels will be constructed in the next article, so please be here with me. Many of the techniques I describe in this “Building Model Airplanes” series for RC Sport Flyer have been demonstrated in previous installments. If you are enjoying the series and find your building skills improving from the information presented, please consider having back issues on hand for reference— just in case you want a refresher or have missed something along the way. Back issues can be ordered from the publisher, and subscriptions to the magazine are available at $25 for 12 issues. Building model airplanes is fun, and there’s no feeling more rewarding than stepping back from an ongoing project, looking at what you’ve accomplished and mulling over the “you” that’s become a built-in part of the model. This is art, my friends, and your skills are surely developing.

The Dallaire Sportster’s fuselage construction is now complete, and the model is almost ready for covering. Remove all the equipment from the fuselage and set it aside for now. I’ll be building the wing for the quarter-scale Sig Spacewalker II in the next installment. Please be here to share that experience with me.

RC-SF.COM

BY Rob Caso

Cockpits Part II

2 The Chopper from NW Short Line is great for making accurate, repetitive cuts, such as on this plastic rod.

ast month, I discussed the importance of having a good cockpit in a scale model, forming a plan by laying out a cockpit’s details and building a removable tub on which all the details are to be hung. This month, I am going to address how to make the needed cockpit details. I do a lot of design work in CAD and subsequently cut parts on my laser cutter. I am fully aware that not everyone has a laser; however, there is a number of good CAD programs that are either inexpensive (under $100) or free. While CAD helps immensely with the layout work, much of the skill needed for building

Some of my most useful tools include a small vise, plastic nippers, fine drills and hole punches.

scale cockpits lies in the mastery of hand tools and materials.

Materials

Many of the details in my cockpits are faced with .010- or .015-in. ABS sheet plastic. Instrument panels, consoles, boxes, floors and raised sections on these are done in plastic sheets over a balsa or plywood core. The reason for using plastic is that it’s 90% finished when you stick it on, it’s easy to work with and it accepts paint nicely. Plastic shapes are another useful item. Round and box tube and round and box solid rod along with hexshaped rod, all in various sizes and

lengths, will help solve a number of cockpit issues. I also use brass and aluminum along with a lot of plywood in various thicknesses and types. My adhesives of choice are usually cyanoacrylate (CA), flexible white glue, liquid plastic cement and epoxy. You must keep in mind the level of vibration to which the details will be subject—unsupported plastic can fatigue and break under prolonged vibration. Other, off-the-beaten path materials always sneak their way into my models. For example, convincing oxygen mask hoses can be made with lengths of nylon screws. Buy the black ones.

4 My fillers of choice are shown. Also consider using medium cyanoacrylate glue and some of the new plastic model acrylic fillers, which work well.

RC SPORT FLYER — February 2013

Face a balsa box core by gluing it to a plastic sheet and then trimming it. Do not do it the other way around. You’ll get a much better fit to the box by facing the box.

Cockpits Part II

Making the Stuff

It’s always easier to buy off-theshelf details when you can, especially when it comes to instrumentation. In the larger scales, there is a number of excellent details available such as switches, pilots, seats, screws, harnesses and even full cockpits. I recommend this approach when it is appropriate for the model because it makes the job easier. I recently bought a full cockpit for an Fw190 that I am planning. Will I simply assemble it and stick it in the model? Of course not. I can make it better, but I’ll have a good head start by using it.

Instrument Panel

Using the instrument panel layout that was made in Part I of my build, you’ll want to affix the paper

template with temporary artist’s adhesive to the base material being used—usually 1/32- or 1/16-in. hard balsa or ply. Cleanly cut the holes with a sharpened steel or brass tube, a Forstner bit or drill point bits. If commercial gauges are being used, cut the panel close and then ream the holes. Once the holes have been cut in the base material, scuff down some .010-in. plastic sheet—both sides—with a fine auto-body-type scuff pad and then glue it with CA to the ply panel. The plastic does not initially have to be cut to match the panel. Rather, simply glue on a rectangular section, recut the holes and then trim, sand and paint the panel the appropriate color. Note that commercially available gauges are often too large in diameter to fit the panel. This will

force other equipment off the panel or cause things to become crowded. So, keep in mind that it’s the busy, “just looks right” effect that you’re after, not something fit for the Smithsonian, so work around this by deleting minor details. If you must make a gauge, it can be drawn in CAD or illustration software or bought with the bezel made from cut and reamed plastic or brass tube. I’ve even made gauges from soldered copper wire formed around a steel rod. You can cut the glass for the gauge from .010-in. clear plastic by using a sharpened tube, or just use a blob of epoxy. The mounting surround can be made by cutting a hole in .010-in. plastic and then, using a square template, plotting and cutting the rest. Sand the edges round.

6 For edging, use a contiguous piece of plastic strip—be sure to put the seam on the bottom.

Pre-painted plastic rods and hex material for screws and buttons eliminate tedious painting later.

8 Frequent test fits of the pilot are critical in determining if things look right in your model’s cockpit. Keep asking yourself, “Is everything in the right proportion?” Follow us on twitter @rcsportflyer

Positioning the seat vertically is also important. Use balsa blocks or plywood for this purpose. Then later you’ll hide these blocks and ply with scale framework. RC-SF.COM

10 The console’s infrastructure is built first and then the details are added. A commercial compass is used in this cockpit among scratch-built trim wheels.

Incidental lights, switches or buttons are sometimes mounted to the panel from the rear, or a flanged gauge or instrument is employed and affixed to the panel by visible screws. Model the flanges from sections of .015-in. sheet plastic and then install the light, switch or button on top of that, allowing room for the screws. Always edge sand cut pieces of plastic to eliminate the cutting burr. Consider mounting the flanges before painting the entire panel and never glue anything to a painted surface— rough it up first with scratches from a knife. I neglected to note in my last column that, for the panel layout, plot outlines of unidentified equipment and then do the research, noting that many period aircraft shared equipment.

Rivets and other details are added to the tub, and then a dark basecoat is applied to corners. Follow it with a lighter shade for the general areas.

Instrument panels are crowded and the keys to success are making a good layout and following it to the letter.

Other Details

Unlike the instrument panel, most of the other cockpit details are more three dimensional in nature. Breaking everything down into simple shapes, cut chunks of balsa to represent the more prominent details and temporarily fit them to the cockpit tub using the layout made in Part I. This will provide some perspective as to the finished size and location of the components. Take a minute to evaluate—it must all make sense. Are the throttle and other controls reachable by the pilot? Does the throttle housing really block half the instrument panel? Is the control stick

too tall? Is the pilot sitting too low? From the photos, is Box A twice as large as Box B? Sort it out now, as it just gets more frustrating if you spend time making the items and then none of them fit or look right. Assuming these were cut accurately, the solid balsa components representing boxes, quadrants and raised areas of the cockpit can simply be covered with .015-in. plastic, painted and attached to the tub. There is no need to cut out each side of a box or quadrant. Simply lay the sheet of plastic on the bench, glue the box to that and then trim and sand. The sides of boxes can be a single piece of plastic cut to the proper width and simply wrapped around, putting the seam on the bottom. This will make the corners more round, which will make it all

12 Here are the cockpit side components for the layout shown in Part I done as three-dimensional parts.

RC SPORT FLYER — February 2013

Various diameters of solder were used for the wiring looms. You’ll want to do the same for the cables.

Cockpits Part II

13 I grabbed a photo of a control wheel from a site that does Internet auctions where they sell full-scale remnants. Perfect!

14 My control column components: the wheel is (4) layers of ply while the rest is plastic tube, sheet and rod along with some wood parts.

look like sheet metal. Bolt heads can be modeled using slices of hexagonalshaped plastic rod, and screws can be fashioned using slices of round rod with slots made with a hot knife. Once one or two of these details are made, it just gets easier. Sometimes an item’s shape does not lend itself to the plastic process—such as the control column in the photos. In such cases, a wood piece can be made that is then hosed down with thin CA. This will provide a stable base for sanding, filling and priming. Various diameters of plastic tube are extremely versatile. These can be used to make button surrounds, warning light housings, control columns, wire and cable sockets and hose connections. Use telescoping sections to build up various rods or tubes. The list is endless.

.010 or .015" Plastic Sheet

Balsa Core

A half-round throttle quadrant can be made using a series of pieces of balsa sheet with spacers that provide slots for the levers.

Trim after fitting

16 The assembled control column lets the wheel rotate and the column move fore and aft to make posing the pilot easier.

Here you see a full scale oil pressure gauge I found on the Internet. If a photo is good enough, use it to make the model’s gauges.

RC-SF.COM

Cockpits Part II

18 This is what my finished cockpit tub ended up looking like. I created it using all the techniques described in this article.

Finishing

Scuff all shiny plastic surfaces with a fine 3M brand auto-body scuff pad—this is better done when things are in the subassembly stage. As I noted before, it is much easier to paint and finish all the detail components while everything is still apart. Take the time now to round off the corners of what are supposed to be sheet metal stampings, as hard edges just don’t look right. It’s very difficult to see unfinished seams or other blemishes on white plastic, so I use Tamiya® gray primer for this and for filling minor scratches. A light cleanup with 220- or 400-grit sandpaper and another application of primer should get things ready for paint. Flat black Krylon® Indoor/ Outdoor paint is great for instrument panels and boxes, but then weather these with a bluish-gray mix of artist’s oil paint to give them a faded appearance. A dry brush of gray over raised areas and dabs of silver from an artist’s pencil further enhance the worn look. For the balance of the tub and cockpit, hose corners and recesses with a darker shade of the general cockpit color and then do the general areas in the lighter shade. This will impart depth, and additional dry brushing will bring out the details. I could go on forever discussing cockpit detail, but the key things to take away from this column are to get things proportionately correct, to break things down into simple shapes and to learn to work with other materials. 38

RC SPORT FLYER — February 2013

A plywood lever gets topped off with a plastic rod handle. Run thin CA over the lever and fine-sand it to finish—no need for plastic facing on these.

Plastic Rod

Ply Lever Use the “text” feature in your CAD program (or word processing software) to make great-looking placards.

BY Bob Mitchell

Scale Propellers They’re Easy to Do and They Finish Your Airplane

hen looking at an airplane most people notice the propeller at first glance. Our airplanes ostensibly need to fly properly, so their propellers must be functional rather than pretty. Scale airplanes, and especially contest entries, need to be prototypically accurate to be believable and to thereby win competitions. This is usually at the expense of functionality though. As a result, most of the best scale airplane builders have two sets of propellers for their competition airplanes: one for flight and one for show.

It’s Easy

Making a detailed scale model of a real propeller is easy and fun. And, if you care about accurate modeling for whatever reason, it’s an essential part of the aircraft project. Modelers even more mature than I proudly reminisce about hand-carving propellers from wood blocks—I imagine that challenge has its own rewards. These days, a visit to the hobby shop or Internet yields abundant sources for pre-cast and ready-to-run alternatives to whittling. Contemporary resins and molds allow manufacturers to produce specific sizes and shapes in small batches, so you can be confident there’s a correct propeller for your

To detail your propeller, you’ll need appropriate colors, clear finish, masking tapes, decal setting solution, decals and some reference material.

scale masterpiece. I used one of these resin kits to add the final touch to my friend’s 102-in.-wingspan Bud Nosen P-47 kit-built warbird. This beautiful aircraft sports a 145-cc in-line twin-cylinder engine, and it has flown beautifully at Warbirds Over Delaware and Joe Nall. It won third place in its category at a recent WRAM show and is resplendent in Flite-Metal. It would be heresy to use anything but a “perfect” propeller. This project is not at all difficult and won’t require a lot of materials or tools. The first photo shows everything you’ll need, in addition to some sandpaper. You’ll need some reference material if you don’t have scale documentation data. Gather

After preparing the resin parts of the propellers you will spray the first colors. In the case of this propeller I did the silver hub and yellow blade tips. You must allow the paint to dry thoroughly.

RC SPORT FLYER — February 2013

paint in the necessary colors, lowtack masking tape, decals, decalsetting solution and clear finish—in my case, Krylon® matte finish spray. Testor’s Dullcote would be equally appropriate. My resin blades and hub needed some sanding preparatory work, namely removing any “flash” or molding excess and any seams resulting from the casting process. Test the blades to see that they fit properly in the hub, and carve or sand until they do. There is a wide range of casting resins, and some use a mold-release compound, which is death to paint adhesion. I always assume they’re present, so I thoroughly clean parts with

I’ve painted one blade black (yellow tip is masked) and am ready to apply red to the hub tip. I use two tape types—blue low-tack painter’s tape and Scotch #471 masking tape that I buy at an auto parts supplier.

Scale Propellers

You must carefully apply the decals to a blade that has its paint well cured. You will then fix the decal to the propeller by applying a mist of clear top-coat spray such as is sold by Krylon.

detergent, warm water and an old toothbrush. Avoid handling the dry, clean parts, as skin oils can create problems later in the painting process. And, most importantly, always protect your lungs when spraying. I’m a big fan of Tamiya® spray paints, so I chose their TS-17 Gloss Aluminum for the hub and TS-47 Chrome Yellow for the tips. I chose to paint the tips first, with the knowledge that yellow is a color that doesn’t cover prior colors well. Had I painted the blades black first, I would have had a devil of a time painting the yellow over it. It would take many coats of yellow to cover the black properly. Once the paint on the tips and hub was completely dry, I masked them and painted the spinner red and the propeller blades black. Should you anticipate applying decals, which I did, be sure to use glossy paint so that the water-slide decals will

When you get done with your model’s show-type propeller, you’ll see it is a work of art. It will add that scale presence to your airplane. This is how my finished propeller looked ready to mount.

adhere completely. I would add that even after diligent scrubbing, you may find that resin parts don’t absorb paint. As a result, it is really easy for the paint to chip and to pull off when you are removing masking tape. Keep this in mind when you’re masking over painted areas, and be ready to do touch-ups if needed. You can do this by spraying some paint into the paint can’s cap, allowing some of the solvent to evaporate and then carefully painting with a small brush. It is easy. Also, wear gloves, or you’re sure to get paint on both hands! Apply water-slide decals only after the paint has had a long curing interval. Best bet is to follow the decal manufacturer’s instructions. I typically dip the carefully closecut decal in ordinary water (some builders swear by distilled) and place them image-up on a damp towel so the water softens them. I wet the intended application area. Then I slither the decal off the backing paper

onto the part. Using a wet paintbrush, I coax the decal into position, then gently blot the water away from the decal. Decal setting solution, the kind model railroaders use, will help the decal “snuggle down,” and it can eliminate “silvering,” the result of imperfect adhesion. Don’t be afraid to apply the solvent solution repeatedly. But remember, the paint must be well cured. After the decal is dry, give the propeller a spray of clear finish—in my example, a matte surface. My paint choices are probably not fuel proof, but because this model is flown using a different propeller it is a non-issue. This is a big, impressive airplane, which has countless successful flights in its logbook. When it’s on the ground and on display, it is even more impressive with its well-finished, detailed, scale propeller. You’ll find these are fun projects that provide the proverbial icing on the cake.

This is how my propeller looks mounted on Alfred Fusco’s magnificent, award-winning P-47 fighter airplane, which was on display at the WRAM Show, where he entered it in the competition.

RC-SF.COM

BY Rob Caso

Super Fly on Floats The Fun of Modeling is Being Creative

t the end of WWII, U.S. technological teams were sent in to investigate the German Horten brothers’ flying wing technology. In a bombed-out hangar nestled alongside the famous Ho229, American teams discovered a little-known airplane the Germans had named the Fantastisch Flug, or in English, the Super Fly. Actually, “super fly” is also “super fly” in German, but Fantastisch Flug sounded better. Amazingly, the Germans produced this aircraft out of foam. Top secret documents later revealed that the

aircraft was easy to fly, was highly maneuverable and had an amazing ability to bounce after impacting a fixed object. It was also reputed to be repairable with five-minute epoxy, thus being able to get back in the air quickly to shoot down American bombers. Soon, foam-cutting machines were brought in, and the Americans produced this little airplane in amazing numbers. Now, if you just want to have fun, My extensive flotation testing consisted of lead weights adding up to the weight of the model, suspended from blocks of foam.

It’s amazing how much weight the foam can support—about 60% of the foam blocks is above the water.

I used inch-thick blue insulation foam, which is inexpensive and readily available. Here is the layout.

After cutting the two blocks, split them in half to yield four, thus providing a spot for the ply core in the center.

Mark the aircraft’s CG on the foam blocks. Later testing indicated that more float should be ahead of the CG.

The CG mark on the float should be lined up with that on the aircraft. Make sure the model’s battery is installed when finding its CG.

RC SPORT FLYER — February 2013

you can go get your own Super Fly. They are cheap and easy to build, fly and, yes, repair. I have flown mine in

Super Fly on Floats Transfer the CG mark on the upper surface of the wing to the bottom, and draw a line parallel to the thrust line.

Holding the float against the CG reference mark, plot where the vertical supports are to be installed.

I used 1/8-in. lite ply for the core and covered the strut pockets with 1/64-in. ply. 1/8-in.-diameter carbon tube will be used for the struts.

Here the float half has been relieved for the ply covers— close is good enough, as the epoxy will fill in the difference.

Five-minute epoxy is used to join the float halves to the core, and the assembly is clamped. Avoid using “air dry” glue for this.

On the top of the float, install a couple of ply plates drilled out for the struts. Although I mounted them flush, this is not necessary.

pylon races, dogfights and formation flying or just when I needed something simple to have fun piloting. I have crashed it into the ground with the motor at full throttle more times than I can remember. I’ve hit trees, poles, buildings, fences and other aircraft, and after a little glue, it just comes back for more abuse. There must be twenty of these

things in various stages of disrepair at my local RC airfield too. My fellow pilots and I recently conjured the idea of putting one of them on floats for a little treachery at sea. I hadn’t flown my Super Fly in a while, and so, for something completely different, I elected to use mine as the test bed. I saw one flying on YouTube with storebought floats attached to it.

It was taking off and landing from snow and doing pretty well. The floats, however, looked a bit too large for the model. I thought I could do better. My goals for a set of floats were simple: make them easy to install and remove, make them easy to build using on-hand materials and make them just big enough to do

Affix the strut plates with five-minute epoxy and tape them down while the glue sets. Make sure the holes line up with the slots.

The floats were shaped fore and aft, and then I applied .75 oz/yd2 fiberglass with satin Minwax Polycrylic.

RC-SF.COM

Super Fly on Floats I glassed the perimeter of the floats first, then sanded off the excess and glassed each side.

To drill through the wing for the struts, I made a jig to keep the drill at 90 degrees.

Holed ply plates are then installed flush on the wing’s top and bottom to support the struts.

Each carbon strut has a ply ring where it bears against the bottom of the wing. These set the height and angle of the float.

the job while minimizing weight and drag. Conceptually, the float design couldn’t be simpler—blue building foam blocks on each side of a light plywood core, suspended from the model by a carbon fiber tube. I would coat the floats with light fiberglass affixed to them with Minwax Polycrylic varnish, but one could even forgo this step. The carbon tube could be substituted with dowels or even additional blocks of blue foam with a little creativity. Designing them in my head, I then used a 2D CAD program to draw the components—after doing some rudimentary flotation testing to see how much foam I needed to buoy a 13.5-oz model, plus the weight of the floats. The total volume of blue foam needed is about 66 in.3, which allows about half of the floats to be above

the water’s surface. Float plane purists will cringe at my design: there is no “step” in the floats. This is because I have not really paid much attention to the numerous floatplane articles I collected over the years. Other than making sure the center of flotation on the floats lined up with the aircraft’s center of gravity, my design was rudimentary. Even so, close is good enough here. And, at about 3.5 oz, the floats don’t affect the airplane’s flight performance much, if at all. Making the floats requires a couple of evenings’ work. After all, there is the fiddly part of sanding notches in the foam to accommodate the center strut supports and routing out the model to fit the ply mounting plates. The former was done easily with a sanding block, On the top end of each carbon tube strut, I glued in a cut-off nylon bolt to secure the float assembly to wing.

Ready for sea trials! Use full up to get the nose of the float out of the water, and then apply throttle. The model will be airborne in a matter of feet.

RC SPORT FLYER — February 2013

the latter with a Dremel tool. It is important to properly space the holes on the model to accommodate the support tubes, so I’ve included a template drawing for this. I also mounted the floats with little positive incidence relative to the wing to get their noses out of the water once power is applied to the Super Fly for takeoff. Five-minute epoxy was used throughout as the adhesive. Since the Super Fly has no rudder, taxiing is a little interesting. It will turn slowly with the application of right or left aileron since that side’s float is essentially being pegged deeper in the water. It’s not really an issue though, since the model gets off the water in no time. Just point it in the right direction, apply up elevator and punch the throttle. This is the fun of modeling!

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BY Carsten Wagner

Night Flight

s is so often the case, the unusual is what first attracted me to flying by night. I had heard a lot about it and indeed witnessed it a few years previously at an air show. At that time, most night-flying models were aircraft; only a few were helicopters. Back then, I too was flying only aircraft. I was not particularly interested in helicopters, at least not night-flying ones. They were illuminated by glow sticks and simply lit blades, nothing else. The aircraft at that time were much better suited to night flying. Bright lights on the end of their wings and very quiet electric motor systems reminded me of Close Encounters Of The Third Kind. Then the idea hit me: I would build a night flight delta with 50 lightemitting diodes (LEDs). They would all be hidden in the wings’ leading edges as well as in the ailerons, shining forwards and backwards. Everyone who knows Star Wars can imagine how that looked as the bright lights moved slowly in the darkness.

RC SPORT FLYER — February 2013

Enough about airplanes. Let’s turn to helicopters.

All lit up with LEDs, my Raptor E550 looks pretty bright, which makes for excellent visibility in the air.

Night Helicopter

Some years passed and I was flying helicopters but had not forgotten the fascination of night flying. LED technology had made significant progress. Whereas four years earlier I had had to solder resistors to every LED, now light strips with very bright LEDs in various colors were available—cascade-able up to 15 ft. That was all that was needed. The basis of the experiment was my faithful old Raptor E550 from Thunder Tiger. I’d bought it five years previously and it had suffered several crashes, but it continued to run and run. It still had its first drive belt, first bearings and drive gear. The “Rappi” is still running like a dream now and is the test bed for all my ideas, be it pyrotechnics, floaters or night flyers. So, I asked myself, what exactly did I want? The question was superfluous—bright and extreme, same as always for me!

As you can see I have enough LEDs on my helicopter that it even lights me up in the dark. Maybe I overdid it a bit, but this is what makes the hobby fun.

Night Flight

The Blades

First I had a look at night-flying blades, what was available on the market and their cost. At that time 550 blades were very rare, at least the ones I wanted. Then I found blades from Torsion Blades. They are a combination of fiberglass and carbon fiber. The fiberglass part is transparent—ideal for an LED to shine through and illuminate the entire blade. They looked very promising. I was lucky; I managed to get hold of the last pair available. I ordered the tail blades at the same time. They were a little bit big, but I could not find any smaller blades. The result was extreme: I needed a rate of 70% exponential for the tail rotor. In the tail blades there was only one red LED, but this was sufficient. A very small lithium battery is integrated in every blade and they are switched on with a jumper. The connecting jack also serves as a charging point for the batteries. The charging time is long—each blade needs about three hours, but the results are worth it. The blades look like a big rainbow.

Here I am spooling the helicopter up before its first flight. You’ll want to do some hovering to get used to the lighting of your machine.

Illumination

The light strips, which are well spaced all over the helicopter, make it appear as if from another dimension. Bright enough, in fact, to light up a second story room while standing in the garden. Hmm, perhaps I overdid it. I used 297 LEDs, which is enough to dazzle the darkness. Also when flying, the helicopter is very bright, almost too bright, and takes some getting used to. Even the camera had problems taking pictures. I chose four colors. Bright and colorful was the motto here. They are everywhere: on the vertical stabilizer, on the horizontal stabilizer, on

As you can see the different colored lights help with orientation. You must plan out where you want the lights to be on your bird before starting.

Even at a distance the LEDs are bright enough that they make it pretty easy to see and stay oriented with the model.

My camera simply could not keep up with the helicopter when it was in forward motion, as you can see by the fuzziness of this shot.

You’ll find that the LED vendors now offer an array of lighting options. I chose lights that would let me make my heli look otherworldly.

RC-SF.COM

the tail boom, on the tail boom brace end, on the skid pipe, on the landing skid and of course on the canopy. The light strips are so configured that they must always be used with a minimum of three LEDs. They function in steps of three: 3, 6, 9,12, etc. The strips are marked, indicating where they Notice that I’m using ZipTies to make certain the can be cut, this being LED lights do not come loose when the helicopter is in flight, which could be disasterous. best achieved with a pair of scissors. According to the manufacturer´s information, they are waterproofed with a coating of varnish. Note that, if during soldering the varnish shrinks, it can be reapplied. I did not need to do this. As the strips are supplied with a glue strip, application is quick and easy. Paying attention to the number of LEDs, the strips are cut to Again, you should plan out your LED system and the the required length, wire run so you can keep the model’s weight to a the protective film is minimum. removed and the strips Unfortunately, I noticed that are pressed onto the the adhesive was not very good. desired area. After this the strips are In particular, at the solder points connected together with two-core or depending on the surface, the cable. They can be soldered at any strips had detached themselves. To point where there is a marker. The overcome this I used some small soldering points are clearly visible and marked with “+” and “-” symbols. The procedure is very simple.

I recommend that you put a color on the horizontal stabilizer to help you stay oriented with the helicopter, no matter its attitude.

RC SPORT FLYER — February 2013

You’ll need to do a little soldering to connect one set of lights to another. But this is an easy process and one you can do in very little time.

Even with all the lights added to the tail of my Raptor E550, I did not have problems keeping it in balance for proper flight.

cable ties to secure the strips. Special care must be taken with parts of a small diameter, e.g. the tail boom brace or the skid pipes. If one LED or the chip becomes broken, then the whole unit is useless and must be

This setup will give your helicopter an almost spaceship look when it is in flight.

Night Flight

Here is how I added the light to the vertical fin. You could certainly add them in different places, but this worked well for my model. The LED strips I have are adhesive backed, so you simply peel the backing off and stick them to the helicopter.

swapped out. However, this is quick and easy to do. Simply cut at the markers, remove the faulty part, insert a new one and solder, and you’re done.

Summary

You’ll even want to add them to the landing skids.

Don’t go crazy with the solder at the connections. Use

Because the canopy Notice the wiring connection between the vertical leg just enough to make a good electrical circuit between and the horizontal. the LED strips. is removable, I was able to bundle the strips at Specifications lit-up helicopter looked great. Even the front of it and thread them inside. Model Thunder Tiger, Raptor E550 A battery eliminator circuit plug and by day the LEDs looked good and Power Electric motor socket assembly allows the canopy created a nice effect. A little tip is Length 46 in. (1150 mm) to be removed easily. The light strips that you should check the price of require 12 V, and a lithium battery the light strips. The price differences Width 5.6 in. (140 mm) with three cells in series is ideal for are enormous, up to 100 percent. Height 15.6 in. (390 mm) this purpose. I used the battery from If you have enjoyed this article and Main rotor 49.8 in. (1245 mm) my T-Rex 250 (3-cells 850-mAh). like night flying, I would recommend diameter There are no problems with the this project. It’s easy to build and can Tail rotor 9.48 in. (237 mm) center of gravity because the strips be completed in only two to three diameter are located in front of and behind hours. Gear ratio 1:8.54–12.33:4.56 the main shaft. The main battery was Ready to fly 116 oz (3300 g) moved forward a little because some USA Distributor weight w/o LEDs space was needed for the lighting BP Hobbies LLC Ready to fly 125 oz (3530 g) battery. After that the show could 115 Stryker Ln, Bldg 4, Unit 10 weight w LEDs & begin. Hillsborough, NJ 08844 battery The first test was in twilight, the Phone: 908-431-5603 Price $398 (w/o RC components) second at night. In my opinion the bphobbies.com Follow us on twitter @rcsportflyer

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BY Wil Byers

Alpine Soaring 2012 “Birds Soar By Gliding Down Through Rising Air”

very Fourth of July weekend since 1987 I’ve trekked to the stunningly beautiful Wallowa Valley’s Joseph, Oregon to vacation and fly model gliders and sailplanes. It all started when my daughter, Bess, was born. That summer we rented a cabin at the foot of Mt. Howard, which is just south of Joseph. I had opted to bring my Cloud Climber glider with me to do a little soaring from some fields that are near town. Then we made the decision to take the gondola ride to the top of Mt. Howard for some day hiking and for the majestic scenery. You see, the gondola carries passengers up 4000 plus feet to the top of the mountain, which is 8350 feet above sea level. Because I’m so hopelessly addicted to flying gliders, I asked the gondola operator if I could take my glider to the top to try some soaring. He agreed that it was possible. So, up the mountain we all went, glider in gondola too. Walking the few hundred yards to the top of the mountain with the glider assembled and ready to fly, I gave it a throw out into the alpine air. The glider then immediately started sinking. I kept flying it in search of rising air. Finally, when the glider was but a dot in the huge 50

RC SPORT FLYER — February 2013

Cole Pendell and Roc Cox make the trip from Idaho almost every year to relax and search for thermals.

It doesn’t matter if you fly a Sophisticated Lady or a $6K super soarer, Wallowa is just about flying for fun and relaxation.

Alpine Soaring 2012

GoProÂŽ and little USB cameras let pilots get a look at what flying is like from the the cockpit of their modelsâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;cool!

Limited Motor Run (LMR) gliders are preferred by some of the pilots who attend because launching is so easy.

Curtis Suter is a serious ALES enthusiast. He hosted a clinic in 2012 that was very informative.

The cloud development in the Wallowa Valley can be stunning to say the least! Follow us on twitter @rcsportflyer

Look at this cumulonimbus street! It tells any self-respecting soaring enthusiast that there is massive rising air in the distance. RC-SF.COM

Roc Cox is getting a helping hand from his copilot with the launch of his LMR glider at the driving range in Joseph.

Curtis is shown here launching his model during an informal ALES contest, which provided a demonstration for all.

This LMR glider spent the good part of an hour soaring the skies above the Joseph driving range, where a local farmer lets us fly. We pay him about $10 a day for the privilege of using his fantastic, close-mown 36-acre field.

RC SPORT FLYER â&#x20AC;&#x201D; February 2013

Wayne Richardson flew in from back East to share the experience of alpine soaring firsthand. He says heâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll be back in 2013.

Alpine Soaring 2012 Roc is shown here launching his self-designed LMR glider into the Hells Canyon air at the southern end of the Memaloose airstrip. The canyon is the deepest in North America at 7993 ft. At this spot it is only about 6500 ft!!!

LMR gliders are a good choice for pilots who feel uncomfortable tossing their model into what can be challenging lift conditions. If your glider should sink deep into the canyon you can power it out safely.

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The Alpine Soaring Adventure is pretty much a Fling-What-You Bring (FWYB) event, as is evidenced by the DLGs that are flown.

Jim Cooney comes every year from Montana to fly his gliders and sailplanes in Joseph, and here at the Memaloose airstrip. One of the pilots put on a little helicopter demonstration for us by flying his Blade helicopter, with Hughes body, out over the Hells Canyon. You don’t get these shots every day, do you?

If you want to experience majestic soaring environments, the Wallowa Valley is truly beyond description. This photo spread simply does not do it justice. I’d love to see you at this event in 2013.

RC SPORT FLYER — February 2013

Alpine Soaring 2012 This is just a small sampling of the pilots who were flying their gliders at Mike O’Rouke’s driving range in Joseph, OR. Some pilots prefer the driving range, while others camp at the Memaloose airstrip for the event’s duration. You can do whatever turns you on!

airspace below it flew into lift. Truly it was only about six or eight large circle turns until the glider was again at hill height. Then I kept it climbing and climbing. Some minutes later I landed the model. I was instantly transformed into an alpine soaring enthusiast forever. Since that day, like-minded glider and sailplane enthusiasts have made the Alpine Soaring Adventure their vacation destination as well. Now each year pilots from all over the U.S., with some coming from Europe, find their way to Joseph to join in the fun of finding rising air exploding from the valley floor. There is not much in the way of organization, and there are no rules other than being safe. However, what pilots find in the Wallowa Valley is superb soaring and flying of all kinds of gliders, sailplanes and electric-powered airplanes.

Join in for the fun and Fireworks July 4–7, 2013. It’s Free! Alpinesoaring.com

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BY Wil Byers

1SQ RTF This is a strange-looking little beast. It has the look of a fun little bug that is ready for you to fly around the house, in the shop or even in the office.

Advanced Quadcopter Technology In A MicroSize Body

ith the development of improved micro-processor systems implementing very, very large-scale integration (VVLSI), it’s no wonder that a new helicopter design is sweeping the marketplace by storm—I mean four blades working in unison. Based on a pioneering design for a helicopter with its initial design concept created in the early 1900s, the early quadcopter was very stable but far too complicated to operate by a single pilot. The newer hardware, software, speed controllers and batteries of today, however, have resurrected the quadcopter. Using four motors and propellers rather than two, with a pair clockwise and another pair counter-clockwise rotating propellers, the fun little HeliMax 1SQ 2.4-GHz RTF quadcopter is a unique and fun step away from the conventional helicopter. It will take you in the right direction for a delightful flying experience. 58

RC SPORT FLYER — February 2013

The Kit

The Heli-Max 1SQ Micro Quad Ready-To-Fly (RTF) comes neatly and safely packaged between layers of hard plastic casing. Factory

assembled, the 1SQ is ready to fly just as soon as the lithium-polymer (LiPo) battery is charged. A USB charging station, a small Philips screwdriver, a spare set of rotor blades, a 3.7-V 250-mAh LiPo battery, four AA batteries and a transmitter are included with the 1SQ package. A small, yet very informative user manual is tucked in the top of the first plastic case. The manual details how to charge, set up and fly the aircraft, and it includes a parts listing in the back.

Your 1SQ quadcopter comes ready to fly. All you need to do is take it out of the box, charge its little LiPo pack and then bind it to the transmitter. You’ll have it flying in 30 minutes or less.

Heli-Max® 1SQ RTF

What You Get

• Airframe Carbon, ABS plastic • Battery Heli-Max 3.7-V 250-mAh 1S LiPo • Receiver Heli-Max TAGS 3-1 Control Board 1SQ • Motors Four • Transmitter Heli-Max TX410 SLT 2.4-GHz • Batteries (4) AA

In Flight

Hang on to your bloody britches; this thing is fun to fly. It is small and a

When compared with a dollar, you see that the 1SQ is a pretty small quadcopter. It comes with everything you need to get it flying in no time too!

The 1SQ comes with a mode 2 transmitter as well as the “AA” batteries you’ll need to power it.

Thanks to very, very large-scale integration circuit boards, the 1SQ quadcopter’s electronics (speed controller, receiver and stabilization) are packed onto this little board—amazing! Follow us on twitter @rcsportflyer

bit twitchy at first, so get ready to be on the controls. However, once you feel this little machine out it gets to be really a kick in the pants to fly. I found that it will start to hover with just about 25 percent power. I never did put the throttle full up because I was test-flying it in the office where the ceilings are only eight feet high. What I did find is that is very responsive in both pitch and roll. Its forward speed is pretty good as well, but again it was flown in the office, so I could not really let it rip. You’ll want to turn off the air conditioning because the 1SQ will feel it, and you’ll need to be ready to respond to any changes in attitude. At first, this is like flying any other

The quadcopter comes in this very nice little box, which doubles as a carrying case, so you can just grab it and go flying with your buddies at a gym or even in their family room. RC-SF.COM

Heli-Max® 1SQ RTF

You’ll discover that the 1SQ is extremely responsive to your control inputs, so it takes a bit of practice to get comfortable flying it. Once you do it is a blast to fly.

RC helicopter in that once it pitches over its center of lift it is going to fly in that direction. Consequently, if its nose (the black protrusion from the body) drops a bit it will want to fly forward, which is the same for any other attitude. Roll rate is very brisk, and I think with a bit more space (or alternatively, with a better pilot than I) you could easily do rolls and loops with this machine. After flying my 1SQ in the office, I had to bring it home with me. That is to say, this is a fun little machine to fly. Buy one and you too will discover that it is lots of fun to hover in the living room, the family room, the kitchen and elsewhere. Heck, you could even taunt the cat into doing a little bird hunting with some practice on the control sticks. I will caution that this is not a machine you’ll want to fly in the wind because it will be affected by it too much. But for

some serious indoor fun, this is a quadcopter to buy and fly!

Assembly

All the assembly is done by those at the factory. Your 1SQ is completely assembled and ready to fly right out of the box!

Synopsis

I’d have to say this was absolutely the easiest model I’ve ever gotten ready to fly. I mean, I didn’t have to do anything except charge the critter! At a price of just $99.98 I could afford it too. I simply took the money out of my sock drawer where it was hidden and clunked it down. Just kidding—Hobbico provided the model for my review. You get my drift though, right? In terms of fun factor, the Heli-Max 1SQ is worth every dime you’ll clunk down on it. Also, if you break a part they are

The body of the 1SQ’s color scheme lets you stay oriented with the model well. In fact, I think it kind of looks like a bug from another planet that invaded our space.

RC SPORT FLYER — February 2013

I don’t recommend flying this model in the wind because it is quite sensitive to air movement. It is not really suited to outdoor flying unless, of course, there is no wind—then go wild with it.

inexpensive. It is all good as they say, and it is a win-win for you and your new 1SQ.

Specifications Blade Length

2.16 in. (55 mm)

Overall Length

5.7 in. (145 mm)

Height

1.37 in. (35 mm)

Flying Weight

1.1 oz (31.2 g)

Battery

Heli-Max 3.7-V 250-mAh 1S LiPo

Receiver

Heli-Max TAGS 3-1 Control Board 1SQ

Transmitter

Heli-Max TX410 SLT 2.4-GHz

Price

$99.98

Distributor Great Planes P.O. Box 9021 Champaign, IL 61821 Phone: 800-637-7660 greatplanes.com

This quadcopter is pretty fast in flight, with very good control response. All it really needs is a micro-sized camera to snap photos of the cat, dog or other pets. Talk about a fun little flyer.

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Explore the great outdoors. • Comes with floats and fixed landing gear • Lots of scale details, including working navigation and landing lights, replica radial engine and more Wingspan: 59.5 in (1510 mm)

• Ailerons and flaps feature drop hinges and authentic corrugation • Fly the DHC-2 Beaver Tx-R with your transmitter and Tactic AnyLink; a Ready-To-Fly version is also available ™

BY Anthony Richards

Passport™ Ultra Duo 200-W x 2 AC/DC Charger A Charger that Pumps 200 Watts Times Two

hen it comes to getting your aircraft ready to fly, time is always of the essence. You want to get out to the airfield as quickly as you can to get busy flying. Before you start for the field, however, it’s always good to make sure everything is ready— airplane packed in the rig, transmitter bound to the receiver, batteries charged and so on. Then you discover that the model’s batteries are not charged. You’d be lucky to get even one motor revolution out of them. You’re going to need a powerful charger to get those packs charged as quickly as possible. Thankfully, you have the new Dynamite® Passport™ Ultra Duo 200-W x 2 charger. It is on your workbench waiting to save your day. Ready to charge two batteries simultaneously, this Dynamite charger is going to deliver more power and efficiency than any charger you’ve owned before. You’ll be thankful you have it sitting there, waiting to pump electrons into your models’ battery packs!

The Passport Ultra Duo comes with two JST_XH balance adapters and two banana plug to EC3™ connectors for charging two standard LiPo batteries.

You won’t have to worry about your charger and cables arriving with any damage. All of the equipment is safely stored between thick styrofoam padding.

What You Get

Your Dynamite Passport Ultra Duo comes packed in a cardboard box with great-looking graphics on all sides. Inside you’ll find the charger safely surrounded by a thick, strong styrofoam casing. The charger is wrapped in a plastic bag, and a thin strip of screen-protecting film is placed over the LCD screens to protect it against scratches while en route to you. Included with the charger are two JST_XH balance adaptors, two banana plug EC3 connectors and an AC power cable. If you need other battery connector types you must purchase them separately.

The Charger

This beast of a battery charger is the only 400-W charger on the market. It features twin 200-W charging ports. Each charging port is able to pump electrons into nearly any type of rechargeable battery, whether it be nickel cadmium (NiCd), nickel-metal hydride (NiMH), lithium polymer (LiPo), lithium iron (LiFe), 62

RC SPORT FLYER — February 2013

Dynamite® Passport™ Ultra Duo 200-W x 2 AC/DC Charger

On the right side of the Ultra Duo are the input terminals for 11–18 volts DC. Notice the large cooling vents and fans that keep the 500W power supply from overheating.

lithium ion (LiIo) or lead acid (Pb). The Dynamite’s internal 500-W 100- to 240-V alternating current (AC) power supply means extremely fast battery pack charge times that will get you out to the airfield in almost no time. The power supply also ensures that full power output is available to both charging ports and to all universal serial bus (USB) outputs at all times. This unprecedented power allows for simultaneous charging across all outputs. Dynamite has designed the charger to have a super-easy-to-use user interface. With its bright, 2 x 16 backlit LCD screens for both charging ports the Dynamite provides crystal-clear readouts of the inprocess charge. Navigating through and between the nine programming menus is made easy with two jog dials, one for each screen. The rotating dials give you the authority to quickly jog through values and menu screens to program more quickly than you would by pressing buttons. To return to previous screens or stop a charge, a Mode/ Stop button is placed in a very ergonomic position next to the dial. Depress the dial for making quick selections and setting values. Lined along the front face of the charger are its output ports. There are ports for banana plug leads, balancing adaptors and a temperature probe, as well as USB ports for sending charge data to a PC. Each charge station (left or right) has a set of ports to allow simultaneous charging. In the center is a one-amp USB port that you can use to charge mobile devices like iPods or cell Follow us on twitter @rcsportflyer

The left side of the charger is home to the power button and the AC input terminal. Another set of fans and cooling vents is needed to protect the power supply.

phones. Because the Dynamite has independent ports, you can charge a LiPo pack on one station at the same time you are charging a NiMH pack, or even another LiPo, on the other. Note that on the right side of the Ultra Duo is the power switch and the AC power port. The kit comes with a North American AC plug, but other AC and DC power cables are available for using your charge station in different countries. On the opposite side of the Duo is the DC power input terminal. Both sides feature a case cooling fan and ventilation openings that are designed to keep the charger cool as it powers through charges.

How To

To charge a battery pack, you’ll connect it to the charger. Then you’ll navigate with the jog dial to the appropriate battery menu and press the dial to select it. From there, programming the charger for your specific battery and its desired charge specifics is easy. For example, if you are using a LiPo battery, first set the charge parameters for a LiPo battery. At the LiPo’s charge screen, push the dial once to set the amperage. You should see the amperage value in the bottom left corner. Rotate the dial to set the amperage value in increments of 0.1 A anywhere between 0.1 A and 10 A. To set the value, press the dial again. You should always charge a LiPo no more than 1C, or one times its rated capacity. This means that a 5000-mAh battery will charge at 5.0 A, a 2200mAh pack at 2.2 A and so on. With the amperage set, the cell number next to the voltage readout

should begin flashing automatically. Adjust the value to match the number of cells and the proper voltage of the battery pack. If, for example, you have the right number of cells selected, but you’ve selected the wrong voltage, you’ll need to check to make sure you have a LiPo pack and not a different type of lithium battery under charge. So, check the on-screen values to ensure everything is set correctly for the pack you want to charge before beginning the charge. Then you’ll connect the battery to its respective balance adaptor and the charge lead, and plug the adaptor and the charge lead into their respective terminals on the Duo. To start the charge cycle, press and hold the dial in for three seconds. By default, the Ultra Duo should sound a three-tone alert as it checks the battery. If the battery is connected correctly, the screen will display a message asking you to confirm the number of cells in the battery pack about to be charged. The charger will automatically detect the number of cells in the pack through the balance port and will read the value under “R.” The value you selected earlier will be under “S” and should match the number detected. To confirm that you’ve selected the right number, press the dial again and the charge will begin. If the numbers don’t match, press the Mode/Stop button, and the charger will return you to the battery submenu. If there is anything wired wrong or something amiss, the Ultra Duo will sound a two-tone alarm and display an error message on the RC-SF.COM

screen. A troubleshooting guide in the back of the manual lists the different types of error messages you might receive and how to address them. During a charge cycle, the respective LCD screen will display at its top the battery type, the number of cells, the charging rate in amps and the current voltage of the battery being charged. Below that readout you’ll see the existing operation, the timer for the operation and the current milliamp hours consumed by the pack. During the charge, the dial can be cycled counter-clockwise to browse through different parameter messages like Capacity Cutoff, Temperature Cutoff, Safety Timer Status, End Voltage, Input Power Voltage and External & Internal Temperature. Jogging the dial clockwise will allow you to view the individual cell voltages during the charge.

Once the charge operation is done, the Ultra Duo will sound another alarm by default. The screen will flash between “End: Finish” and the time it took to complete the charge. Below that, the voltage used and the number of milliamp hours charged/discharged/balanced during the operation is displayed. Press any button to return to the submenu. Follow the same process to charge any other lithium battery at the rate of Charge or Fast Charge. Be aware that the Fast Charge option trades a full charge at more time for a lesscomplete charge in less time. The navigation and setting of values for each battery is the same, but there are different submenus for each. For the nickel-based batteries the submenus include charge, auto charge, discharge, re-peak and cycle, or discharging and recharging. When charging or discharging a nickel battery, you must set the rate of

current. When re-peaking or cycling the battery, you set the number of times you wish it to peak or cycle. For lead-based batteries you set the charge rate (amperage) and the voltage.

Programming

When it first powers on, the charger will run a number of self tests. During these tests, the screens will display the charger’s brand name and its model number for a couple of seconds before going to the LiPo charging screen. If you are not charging a LiPo battery, you’ll push the Mode button for the port you’ll be charging on to get to the main programming menu. From the programming menu, you can select submenus for the battery you wish to charge/discharge/ cycle. You can also select the Battery Memory submenu, System Set submenu or the Lithium Battery

Dynamite® Passport™ Ultralite 50-W AC/DC If the Passport Ultra Duo is a little too bulky and pricey for your tastes, or you want one to go to the airfield with you, Dynamite has a solution for you. The compact and capable Dynamite® Passport™ Ultralite 50-W charger is the near-perfect pick. Delivering real bang for your buck, this little charger was made for the busy hobbyist. The Charger The Dynamite Passport Ultralite 50-W AC/ DC Charger and Multi-Tool can charge nearly any battery type from 0.1 A to 6 A. It will charge LiPo, LiIo, LiFe, NiCd, NiMH and Pb multi-celled batteries. The Ultralite is able to manage whatever battery you fly with. Built in a lightweight and durable hard-plastic case, and six inches on its longest side, the charger

fits in your hand comfortably and can be placed nearly anywhere there is a power source. Featuring an adjustable kickstand in the back, the Ultralite can be propped up to show readings, even across the bench. The kickstand is hollowed out in the middle and can be used as a hanger as well. The 2 x 16 backlit LCD screen provides crisp and clear readouts. A second, smaller screen below it displays the voltage from a LiPo battery when it is connected to the voltage checker. On either side of the charger are two bright LED lights that can be enabled to shine independently or together to illuminate darkened work spaces. The lights are operated by a button on the bottom of the keypad. Press it once for the left light only, twice for the right light only, three times for both and a fourth time to turn them off. The Passport Ultralite comes with a JST_XH balance adapter, a banana plug EC3™ connector and an AC power cord to get you started charging. A unique feature to the Ultralite is the variable kickstand on the back that can be adjusted to recline the charger to any angle you might need.

RC SPORT FLYER — February 2013

The Ultralite charger comes with a balancing port on the front. Two color-coded power output terminals are at the bottom of the charger’s face, accepting banana plug leads for charging. On top, a DC input terminal is used to power the charger from any DC power source. A pair of USB 2.0 ports and a one-amp USB port allow for charging mobile devices such as an iPhone or iPod. Protective dust covers seal the ports to keep them clean and ready to use without hassle. Easy-to-use buttons on the front of the charger allow for accurate navigation through the charger menus. The menus and submenus are easy to browse and select with the button pad. Once in the menus, programming the settings into the charger is easy and much like programming the Dynamite Passport Ultra Duo.

Dynamite® Passport™ Ultra Duo 200-W x 2 AC/DC Charger Voltage Checker Operation using the jog dial. If there is a battery you charge and use regularly, you can navigate to the programming menu and select Battery Memory to set up a battery profile that matches the charging parameters of your battery. You can store up to 10 different battery profiles into its memory, which you can access later by navigating to the Battery Memory menu and selecting that profile. A battery profile contains settings for discharge voltage, discharge current, battery voltage, charge current and Terminal Voltage Control (TVC). To load a profile, simply use the jog dial to navigate to the profile and press and hold the dial for three seconds to bring up the charge function menu. Rotate the dial to the desired function and then press and hold it down for another three seconds to begin. The battery will

begin charging. Talk about fast and convenient recall!

System Settings

To program the charger settings, you will enter the System Set menu. There you can change the settings for the charger. You can set the rest time between each cycle when cycling a NiMH or NiCd pack. The rest time can be set between 01 and 60 minutes. You can also program a safety timer to avoid overcharging a battery. It can be set between 001 and 720 minutes. A capacity cutoff feature is provided to prevent battery damage too. Cutoff values can be set anywhere between 100 and 50000 mAh. Enabling or disabling the key’s beeps or alarm buzzer can be found on this menu also. You can use the jog dial to select “On” or “Off ” for both functions. Be careful about

Charger Multi-Tool What You Get Neatly packed into a sturdy cardboard box, the Ultralite comes well protected in a case of thick, strong styrofoam. Packaged with it are a North American AC power cord, a JST_XH balance adaptor and an EC3 banana plug battery connector. Inside is also a detailed manual that covers in depth how to program your new charger. Programming To begin programming the Ultralite charger, you need to plug it into a power source; this boots it up. Upon startup, the screen will turn on and the charger will begin running a series of self checks. During these checks, the screen will read the charger’s brand name and model number. After the checks are complete, the screen reverts to the factory default LiPo charge submenu. To access the main programming menus, press the Mode button. This button also doubles as the Stop/Back button. Once in the programming menu, you can choose between any of the nine menus for the batteries or system settings. In addition to the battery and system menus, the LiPo Battery Meter and Battery Memory menus will be found on the programming menu. To navigate between the menus, use the increase button (+) or the decrease button (-). To make a selection, use the Enter button, which is found opposite the Mode button. Follow us on twitter @rcsportflyer

Battery Charging Exactly like the setup of the large Ultra Duo menus and displays, the Ultralite submenus provide further programming options for the specific battery type selected. The only difference is the dial operation on the Duo and the button operation on the Ultralite. Under the LiPo battery menu you can pick from five different submenus. Each submenu pertains to a different charger function for that specific battery. For example, say you’re charging a 3S 1800-mAh 11.1-V LiPo battery pack. You would first need to navigate to the LiPo Charge submenu. Cycle through the LiPo battery submenus with the increase and decrease buttons until you reach LiPo Charge. Once there, push the Enter button to start programming values for the charge. Upon hitting the Enter button, the charge rate in the bottom-left corner will begin to flash, indicating that it is selected. By default, the value is set to two amps, which is too much for the theoretical 1800mAh battery being charged. When charging LiPos, it is important to remember to never charge over the battery’s capacity. Push the decrease button twice to set the unit to 1.8 A. The rate is adjusted in 0.1-A increments. With the charge rate at the correct value, set it by pushing the Enter button. The number of cells for the battery will begin to flash in the lower-right

turning them off because the alarms are extremely useful if you’re not constantly monitoring a battery on the charger. Under the Input Power Low Cutoff submenu, you can set a specific voltage limit so that if the power to the charger falls under it an alarm will sound. You can set the voltage between 10 and 11 volts. The External and Internal Temperatures menu displays current temperatures for both the battery (external) and the charger (internal). To measure the battery temperature, you’ll need to have the Dynamite temperature sensor hooked up to the temperature port of the charging station. If you need to, the Reset Factory Settings submenu allows you to reset the charger to factory specifications. The Version submenu displays the current software version installed in the charger’s firmware.

Conclusion

The Dynamite Passport Ultra Duo is a tremendously capable and powerful charger, delivering more power and versatility than any charger before. I’d recommend getting this champion for your hobby room or workbench. It’ll save you preparation time and give you more time at the airfield.

Specifications Width

3.25 in. (85 mm)

Length

10.5 in. (265 mm)

Height

7.75 in. (195 mm)

Power input

100–240-volts AC/12-volts DC

Battery types

LiPo/LiIo/LiFe (1-6 cells); NiCd/NiMH (1-15 cells); Pb (10)

Charge rate

0.1 to 10-amps

Discharge rate

0.1 to 5-amps

Displays

(2) 2 line x 16 characters LCD

Model memory

10 battery settings

Reverse polarity

Protected

Short circuit

Protected

Over current

Protected

Low voltage

Protected

Safety timer

Yes

Price

$269.99

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The top of the charger is home to the AC and DC power input terminals, the USB output terminals and the cell checker port. Rubber dust covers protect the ports from any contamination. The cell checker can detect the voltage for any lithium battery up to six cells.

corner of the screen. You are now telling the charger how many cells your LiPo battery has so it can charge and balance it correctly. By default, the value is set at 2S. The battery is a 3S, so you will need to press the increase button once to set it to three cells. As the number of cells increases, so does the charge voltage. You’ll want to make sure that the cell count and voltage values match between the charger and the battery before charging. When the charge rate and cell count are set and

matched to the battery, you can then hook up the battery to the charger. Using the supplied balance adaptor, plug the battery into the 3S port and plug the adaptor into the charger. Connect the battery to the banana plug leads that mate with it and plug the leads into the charger. Once the leads are connected correctly, the pack will be ready to accept a charge. To initiate the charge sequence, press and hold the Enter key for three seconds until the charger beeps three times. The charger will quickly identify how many cells are actually in the battery pack and then display the results on the next screen. The “R” value is what the charger is detecting while the “S” value is what you set. If the values match, confirm by pressing the Enter button, and the charge will begin. Again, just like with the larger Duo charger, the screen will display the battery type, cell count, current charge rate and current voltage on top. On the bottom the current operation, timer and present charge level are displayed. During the

charge, the decrease button can be pressed to cycle through different parameter messages like Capacity Cutoff, Temperature Cutoff, Safety Timer Status, End Voltage, Input Power Voltage and External & Internal Temperature. Pressing the increase button allows you to view the individual cell voltages during the charge. Pressing Enter will revert the screen back to the default Charge Monitor screen. When the charge is complete, the charger will buzz and flash between “End:Finished” and the time it took to complete the charge. Press Mode to return to the LiPo Charge submenu. Then you can disconnect the charged battery. The other battery submenus are navigated and set up like the example above and are just as easy to toggle into and between. Back in the programming menu you can navigate to the System Set menu and adjust the charger’s settings. Submenus like Rest Time, Safety Timer, Capacity Cut-off, Key Beep, Input Power Low Voltage, Load Factory Setting and Version can be accessed and adjusted from the System Set menu.

On either side of the Ultralite charger is a pair of ultra bright LED lights. These lights are meant to illuminate your work area in low-light conditions.

The bright, backlit LCD screen provides crisp and clear data in any light. The system menus and data values are well organized and easy to read onscreen.

RC SPORT FLYER — February 2013

When you first boot up either the Passport Ultra Duo or Ultralite, the system will briefly display the brand name and model number, as seen here on the Ultra Duo.

You can change your system settings in the System Set menu. Settings for the input power low cutoff limit, safety timer and others can be found under this menu.

The Key Beep and Buzzer operating parameters can be adjusted. The buzzer is the alarm that alerts you when a charge is finished or if there is a problem.

The Passport charger main menu allows you to select which type of battery you want to charge. This screen shows the LiPo option ready to be selected.

Dynamite® Passport™ Ultra Duo 200-W x 2 AC/DC Charger

This screen is where you can set the LiPo operation parameters for whatever you are doing. Currently, it is set to balance a 2000-mAh 7.4-V LiPo.

When you’re charging, discharging or balancing a LiPo, you can change the amperage and voltage to match that of your battery for a safe and full charge.

After entering your battery settings, the next screen will confirm your cell settings to the actual amount of cells in the connected battery. If they match, it is safe to proceed.

As your battery charges, the default LCD screen provides a readout of the current amperage and voltage rates, mAh charged and the elapsed time of the charge.

While the battery is charging, you can cycle through different parameter screens, like the external and internal temperatures seen here, for more information.

Both chargers feature an internal memory bank of up to 10 different battery charging profiles. These can be loaded at any time through the Battery Memory menu.

Specifications

When you select a Battery Memory profile, the charge and discharge currents, battery voltage, temperature cutoff and terminal voltage control cutoff settings are loaded.

Features The charger has an internal battery setting memory bank that calls the Programming menu home. There you can browse through the 10 separate profiles where you can program a specific battery’s charge current, discharge current, temperature cutoff, terminal voltage control cutoff and battery voltage. You can access these profiles and load them later for quicker charges. Using the increase key, navigate to the desired profile. Then hold Enter for three seconds to load the profile. Use the increase key again to select the desired function and then hold Enter for another three seconds to begin the operation. Unique to this charger is the LiPo Voltage Checker Operation. Whether the charger is powered or not, the voltage checker can be operated by plugging the LiPo balance lead into the checker port directly (set to the proper cell count as marked above the checker) or into the balancing adaptor that then plugs into the checker port. Once plugged in, the LED screen will light up with “8.8.8” as the unit powers up. A few seconds after, the screen should Follow us on twitter @rcsportflyer

The lithium voltage checker LED screen is located below the main LCD screen. The LEDs will display the individual cell voltages for each cell in the battery pack.

indicate that the first cell voltage is being read as “1-6,” for example. The “1” represents that the first cell is being read, while the “6” is the total number of cells for the pack. Following that screen is the voltage readout. The checker will then proceed through the cells in order, displaying the current cell, until the final cell is read. Then it will loop back over the voltages again. While using this feature, you have the option of discharging the battery as well. When the battery is connected, hold down the Discharge Battery key located at the top left of the keypad for three seconds. The LEDs should blink. Using the Discharge key and the opposite Read Battery Voltage key, adjust the voltage to its proper value of 3–4.11 V. Once set, hold down the Discharge key for another three seconds. This will save the value and begin the discharge. At the end of the discharge, the charger will beep 10 times and read “END” on the LED display. Conclusion The Dynamite Passport Ultralite charger is both

Width

4 in. (105 mm)

Length

6 in. (155 mm)

Height

2.6 in. (67.5 mm)

Power input

100–240 V AC/12 V DC

Battery types

LiPo/LiIo/LiFe (1–6S); NiCd/ NiMH (1–15S); Pb (12S)

Charge rate

0.1– 6 amps

Discharge rate

0.1–2 amps

Displays

2 line x 16 character LCD; LED

Model memory

10 battery settings

Reverse polarity

Protected

Short circuit

Protected

Over current

Protected

Low input voltage

Protected

Price

$94.99

Distributor Horizon Hobby, Inc. 4105 Fieldstone Road Champaign, IL 61822 (800) 338-4639 horizonhobby.com

a versatile and space-saving charger that fits in any work space—home or airfield. Because it supports all types of batteries and provides helpful, built-in utilities for checking their health and state of charge, this unit is the “Swiss Army knife” of chargers for RC hobbyists. RC-SF.COM

BY Richard Kuns

Mini Contender EP ARF Review You’ll Like the Nostalgia and Flight of This One

op Flite has revived this longsuccessful sport airplane for the electric generation. The original Contender, a 60-size kit, has been around for forty years and is still available. In fact, I built and flew one early in my RC career. I was pleased to discover that the Mini Contender has very similar flying characteristics. It is a good airplane choice for pilots who are ready for their first low-wing, symmetric airfoil airplane.

Steep crabs are quite solid if you want to fly them with your Mini Contender. I found them fun to do too.

Basic aerobatics are all quite possible with this little airplane because of the safety of the stable rectangular wing shape. Experienced pilots will enjoy that it delivers easy, relaxed aerobatics in a small package. This new Mini Contender can be easily transported, assembled and made ready for some quick flights.

What You Get

The airplane is packed in a sturdy box with cardboard sheets and partitions separating the various pieces. For additional protection, all Kit is very complete. Contents include wire landing gear, assembled wing, canopy, cowl, all the hardware and colorful decals—Navy or Air Force.

RC SPORT FLYER — February 2013

Top FliteÂŽ Mini Contender EP ARF Review

A Rimfire .10 outrunner, Silver Series 25-amp ESC and 1800-mAh 30C three-cell LiPo pack are used in addition to Futaba S3114 Micro high-torque servos.

The vertical fin and horizontal stabilizer lock each other into the correct position with a clever mortise and tenon design.

Dry Decal Application Trim the decal and backing sheet to a rectangular shape and remove the clear waste between the decal and edge. Use masking tape to secure it in the desired position. Roll the free end of the decal back and then peel and cut off the backing sheet. Be careful not to get fingerprints on the adhesive side, which can ruin the look of the decal.

Carefully roll the decal onto the surface while avoiding creating wrinkles or bubbles underneath it, which can be difficult if not impossible to remove.

Finally, roll the decal onto the surface of the wing, again being careful to avoid wrinkles or bubbles. Then youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re finished, without needing a messy soap solution.

Lift the remaining side of the decal up and away from the wing. Then remove the backing sheet on that side of the decal.

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the parts and pieces are wrapped in plastic bags. Color pictures on the box are helpful in positioning the decals. Like its larger sibling, the Mini Contender is constructed of balsa and light plywood. Its frame and wings are covered in MonoKote®. All the hardware is packed in plastic bags by type of part—machine parts, nylon pushrods and so on. Speeding assembly, the canopy comes pre-mounted and the one-piece wing is factory hinged and ready for hardware.

There is room to move the battery to facilitate balancing the model. Locating the R617FS receiver in the rear lets you have aileron servos permanently connected to the receiver.

The Rimfire .10 motor is easy to mount when you use the supplied hardware. Wires are wrapped around the motor mount to get the length just right for the ESC.

Kit Components

• Airframe Fuselage, wing panels, fin and rudder, stabilizer w/ elevators, cowl and canopy • Landing Gear Wire tricycle w/ foam Elevator and rudder servos mount under the fuselage. tires Pushrods have Z-bends on both ends. This is done by • Trim joining a long and short pushrod by way of two wheel collars as is shown above. Decal sheet • Hardware Needed to Complete Linkages, spinner, • Motor hook-n-loop adhesive GP Rimfire .10 outrunner tape • ESC • Manual GP Silver Series 25-amp w/ BEC Well written, photo-illustrated • Battery GP ElectriFly 1800-mAh 3-Cell

The kit’s spinner, cowl and Rimfire motor fit nicely in the Mini Contender. They carry the red/white design scheme throughout the aircraft.

RC SPORT FLYER — February 2013

A hatch provides easy access to the ESC. The ESC is mounted to the airframe with the provided hook-n-loop, adhesive-backed tape, which I found keeps it securely in place.

11.1-V 30C LiPo • Servos Four Futaba S3114 Micro hightorque • Radio Futaba 8FGA 2.4-GHz FASST

The large rudder and elevator give this model good control authority for slow-speed aerobatics, which is favored by the Contender. It flies somewhat like a pattern airplane.

Top Flite® Mini Contender EP ARF Review • Receiver Futaba R617FS 7-channel FASST • Propeller APC 9x6E • Miscellaneous Servo extensions, epoxy, medium and thin CA, thread-locking compound

In Flight

Arriving at the airfield on a chilly fall day, I double-checked the control throws, the aircraft’s balance and the battery’s charge. After a radio range check, I armed the ESC and taxied the Mini Contender to the center of The Futaba FAAST 8FG radio and R617FS receiver are an excellent match for the Mini Contender, though a four-channel radio will work too.

the runway. There was a slight headwind as I advanced the throttle to midrange and applied up elevator when the Mini Contender had picked up sufficient airspeed to fly. It popped into the air and quickly climbed to a safe altitude. Several clicks of up elevator and right aileron were needed for level flight. Next, I did some standard flight tests to verify all

The Contender fuselage is long and thin, which helps it stay on line, even on windy days— impressive for such a light airplane.

was well. Rolls are quite axial, inside and outside loops track well and inverted flight requires slight down elevator pressure, which confirmed the balance was about right. At reduced throttle the Mini Contender showed no tendency to drop a wing and simply pitched down as speed bled off. Next, from level flight into the wind, I applied left and right rudder. In both cases, I observed some down pitch as well as roll in the opposite direction of the rudder. I expected some pitch and roll coupling on this airplane with the low, flat constantchord wing. I set it up for landing and reduced the throttle to a low rpm. The Contender slowed and gradually descended. After a flare, the main and then nose gear touched down. Once down, it exhibited no tendency to bounce and appeared stuck to the ground. In my transmitter I used a mix of aileron and up elevator to the rudder. I initially set 30% exponential on high-rate aileron control. However, I found this setting to be a little low The Contender sits ready for its maiden flight on the runway. You can see it has all the nostalgic design lines of the original Contender.

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While flying my Mini Contender in a crab during a sunny day, the model shows off its bright red and white colors and military insignias and excellent control.

for my piloting taste and settled on 50%. Exponential isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t necessary on the other surfaces. Note that these settings arenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t necessary to have a lot of fun flying the Contender. Putting my Mini Contender back into the air, it was time for some fun. I put it through its paces with rolls, The Mini Contender is capable of delivering a very nice, slow harrier with its rectangular wing and amply sized elevator.

RC SPORT FLYER â&#x20AC;&#x201D; February 2013

Climbing steeply, the Mini Contender demonstrates there is plenty of thrust available from the Rimfire .10 motor and 1800-mAh LiPo battery pack.

loops, stall turns, inverted flight, point rolls, harriers, crabs and slow flight. The model can be coaxed into knifeedge flight for short intervals. Several of my buddies were eager for some stick time. They were impressed with how easy it is to fly and confirmed that it is well within the piloting

abilities even of new pilots who have mastered their trainer models.

Debrief

The Mini Contender EP is a very nice electric-powered low-wing sport airplane that revives the nostalgic design of the 60-size Contender. The

Top Flite® Mini Contender EP ARF Review

The Build the motor installation on page six of the instructions is somewhat misleading. The picture shows the motor on the wrong side of the plywood motor mount. Instead, the motor should be installed on the mount on the left side of the fuselage to compensate for the right thrust. Also, the instructions do not provide a specific location for the receiver and the electronic speed controller (ESC). I found that the ESC fit quite well in the compartment in the lower front of the fuselage. I used a small piece of balsa sheet and some adhesive hook-n-loop tape to mount the ESC. I placed the receiver between the battery pack and the fuselage-mounted servos. It worked well because all the servo leads reach this location without the need for additional extensions. Finally the cowl is attached to the airframe with four sheet metal screws. After mounting the propeller and spinner, I balanced the airplane by adjusting the position of the battery. Top Flite supplies colorful decals to finish the classic look of the Mini Contender. The manual suggests using soapy water to ease the positioning of the decals. I find this kind of messy, so I use a process adapted from vinyl applications. See the photos for details of this process.

I started assembly by tightening the covering material. On my airplane, the white shrank readily, but I experienced difficulty with the red. Some wrinkles refused to tighten with any heat that seemed prudent and would not burn a hole in it. The wing of your Mini Contender comes already completely assembled, including the aileron hinges. So, all you’ll need to do is mount the two servos and control linkages, the main gear and the wing dowels. The vertical fin has a tab that matches a hole in the center of the stabilizer. These meet inside the fuselage to quickly center the stabilizer, which is a nice assembly feature. If you use 30-minute epoxy it gives you time to get everything correctly positioned and clean off any excess glue that might have gotten on the airplane. The control surfaces are hinged and the control horns are factory mounted. After installing rudder and elevator servos in the fuselage, the pushrods are attached. Z-bends are used on both ends of the pushrods to connect to the control horns. A small section of pushrod is attached to each longer pushrod by way of two wheel collars. This works quite well for an airplane of this size, plus it makes it easier to do adjustments. Next you’ll mount the nose wheel and motor to the firewall. The picture of kit is very complete, needing only the power and radio system. Assembly is amazingly quick and easy, since many otherwise time-consuming tasks have been completed by the factory builders. It is very lightweight and performs basic aerobatics with ease. With everything that is included in this ARF, the Top Flite Mini Contender EP is a real bargain at just $99.98.

Control Throws Control Throws Low

Center of Gravity High

Elevator

1/4 in. 3/8 in.

Rudder

3/4 in.

Aileron

3/8 in. 5/8 in. (expo 50%)

1-1/8 in.

Rudder to up elevator mix 15% Right rudder to right aileron mix 12% Left rudder to left aileron mix 12%

2-5/16 in. back from wing’s leading edge

Specifications Aircraft Type

Aerobatic 10-size low-wing monoplane

Pilot Skill

Intermediate

Wingspan

36 in.

Length

34.5 in. rudder to front of cowl

Wing Area

329 in.2

Airfoils

Symmetric

Weight

1.7 lb (with battery)

Wing Loading

11.9 oz /ft2

Controls

Aileron, elevator, rudder and throttle

Construction

Built-up balsa and plywood structure, wire landing gear, and fiberglass cowl

Radio channels

4 required, 5 used

References Great Planes P.O. Box 9021 Champaign, IL 61821 Phone: 800-637-7660 greatplanes.com Futaba 3002 N Apollo Drive, Suite #1 Champaign, IL 61822 Phone: 217-398-0007 futaba-rc.com

RC-SF.COM

BY Daniel Holman

Twist 3D 480 A Mike McConville Design That Gets You Flying 3D Fast

ears ago when I was first getting into flying 3D airplanes, the Hangar 9® Twist .40 was a favorite among sport and 3D pilots. With its fat airfoil, long wing chord and light wing loading, it was a very forgiving airplane that you could yank around effortlessly. Recently E-Flite® took all the new design features that have become standard in today’s almost-ready-to-fly (ARF) airplanes and built a very lightweight version of this classic airframe. With its large

control surfaces and an insanely light wing loading, it is a great backyard and park flyer for 3D and sport pilots.

Kit Contents

Unfortunately, the wings on my model were crushed during their shipment to my home. No matter, I never broke a sweat about it because I knew that Horizon Hobby would take care of the problem and get me a new set of wings for my Twist 3D.

Their customer service is second to none, and they sent out a new set within a few days of my call to their customer service desk. The airplane came packaged well, with all the airframe parts individually bagged. The wing joiner tube and pushrods were taped to the bottom of the box, and the hardware was in a Ziploc® bag to keep it all together. The well-written instruction manual and decal set are also bagged and come taped down as well.

The Twist comes out of its kit box as a complete package with all the necessary hardware. The fit and finish are good, and only a few hours of assembly are required.

Here I am in our backyard enjoying a beautiful morning with the Twist. The Spektrum® DX-18 transmitter is an amazing piece of equipment that provides pilots with excellent precision and 3D flying.

RC SPORT FLYER — February 2013

E-Flite® Twist 3D 480

Inverted harriers can be done at walking speed with the E-Flite® Twist, and you will be on the deck in no time! There is very little wing rock, but a lot of left rudder is required to hold a straight line.

The Twist looks great in high-speed knife-edge flight but requires a notable amount of opposite aileron and a little down elevator to maintain flying on the straight and level heading.

The E-Flite® Twist 3D 480’s color scheme was designed for maximum visibility and shows up beautifully in the blue sky. In the background you can see the beautiful Columbia Gorge mountains.

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forward to seeing what this little electric-powered 3D model could do. After one last control check, I set it on the runway and quickly advanced the throttle to about 70%. The Twist leapt forward. I kept it straight with a little right rudder. After 10 ft I pulled the elevator back, and it jumped off the ground, climbing at about 45 degrees. I flew a couple of traffic patterns at 50 ft or so and was pleasantly surprised that it only required one click of left aileron trim to fly straight and level. The model’s center of gravity felt perfect, so I started doing performance checks, putting it through its aerobatic and 3D flight envelope. The roll rate is very fast, and the ailerons feel very crisp. I was happy

Needed To Complete

• Motor E-Flite Park 480 outrunner, 1020 Kv • Speed controller E-Flite 30-amp Pro Brushless • Battery E-Flite 3S 11.1-V 2200-mAh 30C LiPo • Propeller APC 11x7E • Transmitter Spektrum DX-18 DSMX/DSM2 • Receiver Spektrum AR-6115 DSMX • Servos (4) E-Flite DS-76 digital servos • Servo extensions (2) 9-in. extensions • Pilot Parkzone #PKZ5105 (sold separately)

The aileron servo linkages are easy to install and slop free. Notice the lightweight balsa and light-ply construction used inside the wings.

On the bottom of the fuselage, there is a magnetic hatch that allows for quick access to the receiver and wing retention bolts.

The E-Flite® Park 480 outrunner motor mounts easily to the pre-drilled firewall using M3 socket-head bolts, washers and blind nuts.

The magnetic battery hatch makes changing out the batteries a cinch, and it allows good access to the ESC.

In Flight

For its maiden flight I simply took the Twist to the backyard—we have a big one. I was looking 76

RC SPORT FLYER — February 2013

E-Flite® Twist 3D 480 to find that snap rolls stop very nicely despite the fat airfoil. Rolls are very axial as well, with no aileron differential needed. Pitch authority is excellent, and the elevator remains powerful even at slow air speeds. The rudder is quite effective, but there is an unfortunate amount of pitch and roll coupling. The Parkzone® painted pilot adds a nice touch to the Here you can see the simple elevator pushrod This can be mixed out Twist’s appearance. Silicone and CA will work for setup. The small tailwheel is lightweight and works securing the bust to the canopy floor. great on smooth surfaces. in the transmitter’s programming, but it is the power on. Stall performance is is very slow, which looks really cool. somewhat time consuming. Knifevery good too, and it never dropped Exiting is as simple as centering the edge flight is certainly doable, but a wing no matter what I did. Tracking sticks and pulling out, or releasing the unless the coupling is mixed out, it is fine but nothing special due to the rudder, ailerons and half the elevator requires a lot of work from the pilot. short tail moment. and exiting in an inverted harrier. Knife-edge spins are quite good All the sport aerobatics are Right-side-up flat spins do not flatten though, and it winds up pretty fast. I excellent, and I found that this is out very easily, but they can be done. found that inverted flat-spins are the really where this airplane excels. The Twist handles 3D flight pretty Twist’s specialty! Using full rudder, Setting up to land, I didn’t even easily, and it hovers nicely. Inverted full opposite aileron, full down bother to slip it in. The light wing and upright harriers are quite easy to elevator and about half throttle, it loading and draggy airframe slow it perform, and the model has minimal will completely flatten out. The spin down quickly without any control wing rock. Rolling harriers are also rotation is fast, but the descent rate surprises. I turned it into its final very good, and the huge ailerons approach with the motor turned off keep it rolling quickly even at high and glided it down to about a foot off angles of attack. Waterfalls are tight, the runway, at which point it entered and you don’t need to worry about ground effect and I stopped the the airplane stalling out at the bottom as long as you keep

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The ailerons on this airplane are very powerful, and rolling harriers such as this one can be performed with an amazing roll rate! The mountain in the background is Mt. Adams in Washington State.

descent to slow it all the way down. I flared it slightly and let it settle onto the runway. It touched down so slowly that the roll-out was less than 10 ft! I then taxied it back to my feet quite easily, even on the hard-packed dirt runway. The steerable tailwheel works well on smooth surfaces, but I would recommend against taxiing it in grass, which could create a problem. Having said that, if you have a short pavement driveway to take off from and land on, you’re golden. It’s a great airplane to fly right out the back door!

Conclusion

The E-Flite® Twist 3D 480 goes together fast, is built well and flies great! Because it is limited to sport and basic 3D aerobatics by the lack of side area and fat wings, it doesn’t exactly fit my style. It is, however, an

High-alpha knife-edge flight is possible but requires lots of attention to controlling the model with its ailerons and elevator control. A programmed mix will help some with it.

RC SPORT FLYER — February 2013

E-Flite® Twist 3D 480 excellent choice for intermediate pilots who want a hassle-free sport and basic 3D aerobat. This airplane is a true park flyer that requires very little runway or airspace to deliver a large fun factor! All in all, it’s a great value and would be a good addition to anyone’s airplane hangar.

Hovering the Twist is fairly easy to do in calm weather conditions. It does require quick movements on the rudder though, as there is not much side area on the fuselage to aid in this flight mode.

Specifications

Control Throws Low Rates (Up/Down)

High Rates (Up/Down)

Ailerons

45 / 25% expo

30o / 20% expo

Elevator

50o / 25% expo

25o / 20% expo

Rudder

50o / 22% expo

30o / 18% expo

Note: These are the settings that the model uses. I prefer a very sensitive feel to my airplanes but recommend that you start with the control throws and exponential settings that the manual outlines and then adjust to your style.

Distributor Horizon Hobby 4105 Fieldstone Road Champaign, IL 61822 (800) 338-4639 horizonhobby.com

Wingspan

35 in. (890 mm)

Wing Area

404 in.2 (36 dm2)

Length

34.5 in. (880 mm)

Weight

26–30 oz (740–840 g)

Motor

E-Flite Park 480 BL outrunner 1020 Kv

ESC

E-Flite 30-amp Pro Brushless

Battery

E-Flite 3S 11.1-V 30C LiPo

Propeller

APC 11x7E

Transmitter

Spektrum DX-18 DSMX/ DSM2

Receiver

Spektrum AR-6115 DSMX

Servos

(4) E-Flite DS-76 digital servos

Servo Extensions

(2) 9-in. extensions

Assembly The E-Flite® Twist 3D 480 goes together very quickly, and I finished mine in only a few hours. It is a very complete kit and includes everything that you need except the power system (motor, ESC, battery and propeller), four micro servos, two 9-in. servo extensions, a receiver and a transmitter. The assembly manual is very complete, and if you follow it, there’s very little for me to write here. I began by inserting the aileron hinges with four cyanoacrylate (CA) hinges each and installing the aileron servos in the pre-opened servo mounts, wicking a little thin CA into the mounting screw holes. Due to the small size of the airplane, no servo extensions are needed in the wings. I put the control horns into the ailerons with a little gap-filling CA and put the backplate on quickly before the CA cured. For all the control surfaces, I used the outermost hole in the largest servo arm that comes with the E-Flite® DS-76 servos. Putting the EZ-connector in the servo’s arm and the pushrod’s Z-bend into the control horn side, I centered the servos and tightened the set screw in the EZ connector when the surfaces were centered. At this point the wings were complete and I moved on to the landing gear installation. After bolting the wheels onto the landing gear with the M3x15 socket-head bolts and their corresponding nuts and washers, I bolted the landing gear assembly onto the fuselage with two M3x10 socket-head bolts and washers, which thread into the pre-installed blind nuts. The tailwheel is installed later. I mounted the E-Flite® Park 480 brushless motor to the firewall with the kit’s M3 bolts, washers and blind nuts. Routing the wires into the fuselage right below the motor, I connected them to the E-Flite 30-amp ESC, which got mounted to the side of the fuselage just to the right of the battery tray. Then I put a strip of the hook side of hook-and-loop material onto the battery tray and installed a hook-and-loop strap around the battery tray. Moving onto the radio installation, I mounted the receiver right behind the wing joiner tube socket with hook-and-loop material. Thanks to the magnetic hatch on the bottom of the fuselage, this area is easily accessible. I then put the

wings onto the fuselage, bolted them on and connected the aileron servos to the receiver. Due to the short servo leads, I cut a small one-inch hole behind the existing servo lead hole in the fuselage. This allowed a straighter run to the receiver, which provided another inch of lead length. Once the wings were on, I slid the horizontal stabilizer into the fuselage. After cutting away some of the covering in the center for a better glue joint, I lined it up with the wing and glued it in place with thin CA. Next I cut the covering off the bottom part of the vertical stabilizer where it would go into the fuselage and glued it in position with gap-filling CA, making sure that it was 90 degrees to the horizontal stabilizer. Then I slid the elevator joiner wire into the fuselage right behind the horizontal stabilizer. After roughing it up with sandpaper, I epoxied it into the pre-cut holes in both elevator halves. Before the epoxy cured, I hinged the elevator with four CA hinges, ensuring that there was a proper gap between the elevator counterbalances and the ends of the horizontal stabilizer. Next, I epoxied the tailwheel’s tiller arm into the pre-drilled hole in the rudder and cut a slot in the back of the fuselage for the tailwheel’s knuckle to slide into per the manual. I then used thin CA to glue the rudder hinges in place. Installing the rudder and elevator servos is much the same as the ailerons. I connected a 9-in. servo extension to each and routed them through the fuselage and connected them to the receiver. I glued the optional pilot bust into the cockpit and used thin strips of highstrength clear tape to secure the canopy. You can also use canopy glue if you wish to put the canopy on in a more permanent way. I bound the Twist to my Spektrum® DX-18 and programmed all its control throws, dual rates and exponential rates into the transmitter. Once I was finished, I bound the system again to set and save the failsafe settings. At this point all that’s left to do is install the propeller, ensure that the center of gravity is approximately 3.5 in. back from the leading edge of the wing and install the battery.

RC-SF.COM

BY Dan Deckert

Phazer EDF ARF An EDF Jet that Puts You in the Ejection Seat

f you are an experienced pilot and enjoy a good-looking, fast airplane, then this ARF is for you. The white body with the red-andsilver-trimmed color scheme on this electric ducted fan (EDF) jet is outstanding too. Great Planes provides a warning in the kit that the Phazer requires advanced piloting skills and is not suitable for beginning or intermediate pilots. I strongly suggest you heed the advice.

The kit comes with all the gear you’ll need to build it. As you can see, the parts come individually packaged to reduce loss and protect them against damage. RC SPORT FLYER — February 2013

You get a well-packaged, delta-wing jet with some goodies beyond what one would normally expect. Great Planes also provides an easy-to-assemble bungee launcher and a center of gravity balancer in the kit. The manual is very detailed and illustrated with high-quality images.

Kit Contents

The completed airplane is absolutely gorgeous with a finish second to none. This little airplane is easy to build and is a hot little jet to fly. You’ll enjoy it.

What You Get

• Fiberglass fuselage • MonoKote® covered balsa/ plywood delta wing • HyperFlow fan unit • 24-45-3790-Kv in-runner brushless Ammo® motor • Motor extension wires

The recommended components are an excellent fit for this airplane. I got my model at towerhobbies.com. They offer a complete package, so you won’t be hunting for the right components.

Great Planes Phazer EDF ARF • Hardware packages (balance jig, bungee launcher, aircraft parts) • Wing joiner tube • Landing skid set

Needed to Complete

Electronics: • FlightPower® EON-X™ 14.8-V 2200-mAh 30C LiPo • ElectriFly® Silver Series 35-amp ESC • Futaba S3157 digital micro servos (2) • Three-channel transmitter with mixing capabilities • Receiver (Futaba R617FS) • 6-in. servo extension (2) Hardware: • Hobby knife • Screwdrivers, pliers, hex drivers, crescent wrench, ruler • Pin drill set • 150-grit sandpaper • Thin or medium CA

This is a delta-wing airplane. The wings mate to the fuselage. Mine came in perfect condition and did not need an ironing of the covering before assembly.

Looking through the exhaust at the intakes shows how clean the fuselage is, which allows for maximum airflow to the ducted fan.

Right out of the packaging, the parts are just begging to be assembled. The finish quality of my Phazer EDF model was spotless.

This is the balance stand that comes with the airplane kit. I recommend you assemble it first so you can then focus on the airplane.

My holding technique shown here is just for a power system test. The actual release has the airplane with its nose just barely above the horizon. Follow us on twitter @rcsportflyer

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• 30-minute epoxy • Zap Goo® (highly recommended for wing attachment) • Dremel tool

In the Air

Landing the Phazer is best done on a grass strip. All you’ll need to do is pull its nose up enough to get it to slow down and then just fly it into ground effect. It will settle gently onto the grass. Our landing was done smoothly as Clark used throttle control to maintain airspeed above stall, keeping the airplane’s nose high.

The included bungee launcher made for a perfect takeoff. My friend Clark Hymas put the little airplane through its paces. The thing that stands out about the Phazer is its speed. This airplane is quite fast in the air and in control response. I had dialed in the lowrate control less than the recommendations, so the model was pretty tame for the first launch. High-rate controls make the Phazer extremely When the servo arm is installed correctly, per quick in roll. I would not the manual it should have a five-degree offset perpendicular to the case. recommend having the transmitter set on high rates for its first launch. That could easily get a pilot in trouble. Clark flew the airplane using a lot of airspace, with big sweeping turns, rolls and loops. High-speed passes were straight, fast and smooth. The Phazer will deliver fairly tight turns, even on low rates, as long as you keep its airspeed high The blue tape was used as a guide when installing the enough to prevent a skids. It prevents mounting them over the covering where it is unsupported. stall. Know that if you get this airplane flying too slowly, you run the risk of a pretty severe stall, which will consume a fair amount of airspeed as it recovers. Also, if you turn the transmitter onto high-rate controls and throw the control stick over, this little rocket will roll like a top. We did not do any inverted flight, but looking at how it loops I would expect it to fly This shows the gap on the stator extension before inverted pretty well. trimming and sanding it to fit properly. This gap must not exist if you want the stator extension to fit.

RC SPORT FLYER — February 2013

Conclusion

This airplane is built for speed. Our flight tests indicate that it delivers that extremely well. Great Planes has produced an EDF that, in my opinion, surpasses the other EDFs you’ll find in the RC market. There are a lot of EDFs, but this particular aircraft is a class above the others. So,

I modified my servo mounts to allow servo replacement should it ever be needed. This is covered in the build part of the article.

These are the parts needed to start on the ducted fan’s assembly. Be sure to read the separate fan assembly manual very carefully.

There’s plenty of room in the fuselage to install the ESC, receiver and battery. You’ll find you have lots of room for your hands when connecting the battery.

Great Planes Phazer EDF ARF

Specifications Aircraft Type

Scale

Pilot Skill

Advanced

Wingspan

23 in. (585 mm)

Length

30 in. (760 mm)

Wing Area

224 in.² (14.4 dm²)

Airfoils

Symmetrical

Weight

32 oz (910 g)

Wing Loading

20.6 oz/ft2 (63 g/dm²)

Controls

Elevons and throttle

Construction

Fiberglass Fuselage and Balsa wings with covering

Motor

30-24-920-KV brushless Ammo outrunner

ESC

35-amp ESC (GPMM1830)

Battery

FlightPower® EON-X™ 4S 2200-mAh 30C LiPo

Radio

3 channels w/ mixing capabilities

Transmitter

Futaba 7C 2.4 Tx

Servos

Futaba S3157 digital micro servo (2)

Flight times

+/- 5 minutes

Instructions

Photo illustrated w/ text

Price

$179.97

The pilot and the kit’s supplied decals add a dash of realism that brings out the beauty of this little jet. I think I put in about 15 hours building this model. Follow us on twitter @rcsportflyer

You’re going to like how this model looks in the air, as well as how it performs. Even in its stock configuration it will do about 100 mph.

The first try for a landing required some finesse to get it right. Judicious use of throttle and elevator control will let you land it without damage.

This photo shows the model in one of the many “low speed” passes, if you can call them that, done for the cameraman. The colors really stand out against an overcast sky. RC-SF.COM

Great Planes Phazer EDF ARF be ready not only for some fun, highspeed action, but for the screaming sound of an EDF jet. I think you’ll find this little model is a heck of a lot of fun to fly.

Distributor

Control Throws

Great Planes P.O. Box 9021 Champaign, IL 61821 Phone: 800-637-7660 greatplanes.com

Low Rate

High Rate

Elevator

3/16 in.

3/8 in.

Aileron

1/8 in.

3/16 in.

Note: Instruction manual also provides throws in degrees and millimeters.

The Build Whereas the build isn’t particularly difficult, some previous building experience is advantageous. I started by assembling the center of gravity (CG) stand and balance gauge. This got it out of the way. You’ll want to insert the long balance rods to align the stand before gluing. Be sure to build it on a flat surface and keep it square. Next I installed the four alignment pins into the wings. Be sure to sand them lightly before gluing them in place with CA. Remove the servo covers and apply thin CA to the screw holes to harden them. The kit’s screws fit snugly. You’ll want to trim and mount the control horns onto the servos. After you center the servos with your radio you should set the arms to have a five-degree offset if you are using the Futaba S3157 Digital Micros. The manual calls for gluing the servos to balsa and then gluing the balsa to the servo covers. However, should the servo ever fail, this could cause problems in replacing them. I replaced steps 6, 7, 8, 9 and 10 on page 11 and 12 of the manual with my own method of attaching the servos. I bonded double-sided sticky-back tape to the servos. Then I attached the servo to the covers with servo mounting screws that thread into wooden blocks that I CA-glued to the hatches. This will require you to manufacture four such posts from 1/4 x 1/4-in. square Basswood. Using this method lets you easily replace the servos in case of failure. And, there’s no danger of attachment failure if the parts are installed properly. You’ll need two Futaba servo extension cables for the wing-to-receiver connections. I used the 12-in. LXUR69 heavy-duty extensions from Tower Hobbies. Be sure to use some shrink tube or clips to secure the connection points. Next, I installed the wing skids. The elevon control horns go on after the skids are mounted. Before you start, hold the wing up to the light and see where the balsa covering stops relative to the servo mount. If the skid is placed too far away from the servo mount, there’s nothing to attach the skids to except covering. I marked the balsa edges and then placed tape along the marks to make sure the skid is located on the wood and not over the covering. Now sand the skid bottoms enough to remove the gloss, which will provide a good bonding surface. Align the skid on the wing and mark the outside edges of the skid; remove it and poke pin holes in the area where the skid gets glued in place. Because it won’t fit perfectly flat, glue the trailing edge on first with enough CA to keep it secure. Then work the skid down by applying tape and CA to the center section, followed by the leading edge. Be careful not to apply too much CA, or it may run onto the surrounding areas. Now follow the manual’s procedure and install the control horns and linkages to the wings. The fan unit assembly takes time to install. Before starting the install, read the manual! I’m not going to detail the steps, as the manual covers everything quite well. However, I strongly recommend you dry-fit the assembly. After everything fits properly you can secure it in place. Since my model is powered by the Ammo 24-mm motor, I’ll point out a few things I encountered. • A Dremel tool works well for filing the end of the set screw for the fan rotor adapter. • Very little material is removed from the 3-mm motor mounting screws for 84

RC SPORT FLYER — February 2013

them to allow the fan housing to seat properly on the motor. • A very slight sanding touchup may be required on the fan blades to remove their hair-like edges. • A fine-grit 1/2-in. sanding drum on a Dremel tool is the best way to remove the three alignment guides in the fan housing, which will then allow the 24-mm motor to fit. • Some touchup sanding may be required to properly seat the stator extension. NOTE: Page 7, image 6 of the EDF manual details the stator extension alignment. The notch referred to in the image must be seated in the fan housing. You must REMOVE the fan before you install and glue the extension. It takes time and patience to install the fan unit in the airplane’s fuselage. Do not glue anything into the airframe until after everything has been test fit. I started by applying some CA to the rings that surround the cone adapter to make sure they were secure. Then I glued the adapter to the fan to keep it square for the install. Next, I test-fit the fan housing mount to allow an easy fit onto the fan housing. The mount sets against the heavier ring on the fan housing. The outermost ring is only a guide. Do not glue the fan housing mount to the fan unit at this point! You’ll want to insert the fan unit, being sure the cone adapter is seated inside the tail cone, and test-fit the motor housing mount. I had to remove and sand the housing mount several times to get a proper fit. Next you’ll install the three supplied motor extension wires and feed them through their shroud. I installed shrink tube over each connection to keep them secure. With the extensions on and secure, you will install the fan assembly and motor housing mount into the airframe per the manual. Next you will install the front housing flange. Be sure it seats properly before gluing it on. I used three drops of CA just to hold it in place and then applied RTV silicone per the manual to keep it in place. I followed up by beveling and installing the balsa fin hole cover. Be sure the wire extensions feed through the slot before gluing this in place. Then you will connect the ESC and power up the motor to be sure it’s running in the right direction, while you still have easy access in case you need to swap two of the leads to change motor rotation. At this point, you can install the ESC, receiver, battery tray, bungee hook and nose skid per the manual. For the battery install, use two small pieces of Velcro® on the battery tray instead of one big piece. Then secure the battery in place. The battery tray area is an extremely tight fit. You will install the wings last. Because it is strictly a builder’s choice on how to secure it to the airframe, I won’t cover it here except to say I used the RTV method. You’ll want to test-fit the wing tube prior to securing either wing. My wing fit extremely tight and required some special effort to be seated properly. Also, I trapped the three motor extensions under the wing tube to help restrain them from any movement. After the wings are on, all you’ll have left is balancing the aircraft, setting up the transmitter’s controls and getting ready for the ride of your life.

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