J'N'C Magazine 3/2017 by J'N'C Magazine

No 69 /3-2017

JEANSWEAr & CONTEMPOrArY FASHION

FuTurE OF FASHION a plea foR a CultuRal sHift INTErvIEWS ten expeRts and tHeiR take on ClassiCs DENIM INNOvATION deseRt studio dubai

GOOD STUFF The Timeless ATTrAcTion of QuAliTy

D 12.50 Eur Rest of euRope 14.00 euR switzeRland 18.00 CHf

alberto-pants.com

GENTLE SUMMER

joesjeans.com | @joesjeans

Come and visit: MUSTANG Street Art Lab @ SevenStar Gallery 5th July 2017, Gormannstr. 7 | 10119 Berlin shop online mustang-jeans.com

GAASTRA Deutschland · E. F. Sportswear GmbH & Co. KG · Mittelweg 118 · 20148 Hamburg

VISIT US AT PREMIUM BERLIN

MUNICH

JULY 4-6

AUGUST 5-7

KÜHLHAUS KH C05

ZENITH GELÄNDE E01

T: +49 (0)40 – 46 96 66 9 – 0 · info.hamburg@ef-sportswear.de · gaastrastore.com

editorial

FashioN is too muCh aBout FashioN

J'N'C t o p i C s

The beauTy of timeless Design fashion — classic, contemporary and sTreeTwear

Thorsten Osterberger 14

Contributors

Lars Borges photographer his anecdotal images are timeless aesthetic snapshots driven by a search for authenticity. With stylist Cathrin Sonntag, he came up with an editorial for J’N’C that perfectly showcases the current denim styles.

Leyla Piedayesh FouNDer LaLa BerLiN We asked the successful Berlin based creative director and designer to imagine she was in charge of the international fashion industry. What rules would she introduce for the future, what changes would have to be made?

ViVieNNe WeStWooD

In a world that keeps spinning faster and faster on its axis, traditional values can help to keep us grounded amidst the disorientating blur of trends. And while trends are a powerful motor of the industry, the stronger focus on sustainability means that consumers are gradually shifting toward a demand for more quality, durability, timeless design and fair trade. In our exclusive series of interviews, we spoke to ten experts from the fashion industry to get the lowdown on quality and what defines it. And to illustrate its importance, we’re showcasing our pick of favourite pieces from page 26. We also headed to Dubai to visit the state-ofthe-art jeans production and finishing facility Desert Studio. Read our report on page 94. And, as always, you can draw plenty of trend inspiration from our fashion editorials starting on page 60. We wish you a great start to the new fashion season and hope you enjoy reading this new issue.

“Buy less, choose well and make it last.”

DeMNa gVaSaLia / VeteMeNtS

Christoph Mack photographer Specialising in people and reportage, Christoph has worked for publications like “Neon” and “Zeit Magazin”. We sent him on a trip to Dubai with J’N’C associate publisher pierre D’aveta to visit the innovative production site Desert Studios.

woolrich.eu

overvieW

contents 14

EDITORIAL

BITS & PIECES

most Wanted

good stuff

Most Wanted

EXCLUSIVE INTERVIEWS: TEN EXPERTS ON CLASSICS

essay: Quality — the neW status symbol fashion shoot: timeless Pieces

COLUMN: TANJA NEDWIG

STREET STyLES

INTERVIEW: WRANGLER

fashion shoot: cool denim

FEATURE: DESERT STUDIO DUBAI

TRADESHOWS

Timeless Pieces

104

114

fashion shoot: contemPorary looks 10 FASHION RULES: LEyLA PIEDAyESH

cover

Photography: Suzana Holtgrave Styling: Bianca Fleisch Model: Otto @ M4Models, wearing jacket by Wrangler and scarf by Rockins

Publisher EPP Professional Publishing Group GmbH Liesegangstraße 16 40211 Düsseldorf Germany

Tel. +49 (0)211.830 30 Fax +49 (0)211.830 32 00 info@jnc-net.de www.jnc-net.de

Cool Denim

editorial dePartment Chausseestraße 116 10115 Berlin Germany editor-in-chief Thorsten Osterberger t.osterberger@jnc-net.de art director Ivo Wojcik

Publishing management Nikola Köster

chief subeditor Cloat Gerold

associate Publisher Pierre D’Aveta

editor Cheryll Mühlen

editing assistant Nils Jürgens contributors Andres Damm, Björn Lüdtke, Tanja Nedwig, Leyla Piedayesh PhotograPhy Oliver Beckman, Lars Borges, Suzana Holtgrave, Christoph Mack, Christoph Sagel translation Galina Green, Paula Hedley www.trendtranslations.de

advertising director Pierre D’Aveta Tel. +49 (0)211.830 31 51 p.daveta@jnc-net.de coPy editors Cloat Gerold, Galina Green logotyPe design Martin Steinigen/chewing the sun

bank details BTV Bank für Tirol und Vorarlberg AG IBAN DE25 7201 2300 0772 8980 00 SWIFT BTVADE61XXX Price Germany 12.50 EUR Rest of Europe 14.00 EUR Switzerland 18.00 CHF Print Schaffrath Druckmedien, Geldern

Data Protection Notice: In the event that delivery is not possible under the address provided, Deutsche Post DHL has the right to pass the correct address on to the publishers. The sub scriber can appeal against this guideline. We assume no responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts, photos, etc. The magazine and all of its contents and images are protected by copyright. The place of business and jurisdiction is in all cases Düsseldorf.

lacoste.com

Bits & Pieces

bits & pieces

ucon-acrobatics.com

l acoste

u c o n a c r o b at i c s

PaPerwork

alberto-Pants.com

Hi-tech materials have been flooding the textile industry over the last few years. And the blurb written about them has become a veritable smorgasbord of technoid synthetic fibre terms that don’t mean a thing to most of us. The “Paper” series by the label Ucon Acrobatics is offering a brilliant contrast – all thanks to its simplicity. As the name suggests, their various backpacks are made of paper. The natural material is not only extremely decorative, but the way it has been processed means that the rucksacks are also rainproof and, in terms of lightness, can definitely give artificial fibres a run for their money. Minimalism and reduced lines define the design. The bags are available in monochrome light grey or typical recycled paper brown with colour-coordinated stitching.

Paris, je t’aime However limited the possible variations for a fashion classic like the polo shirt may be, with 85 years of company history spent focusing primarily on precisely one item, Lacoste is showing us that there’s still definitely room for creative modifications. In spring/summer 2018 the classic item is being given an unusually elegant look under the name “Paris Polo”: its concealed button placket, tonal crocodile logo and hidden collar exude a sophisticated formality.

sois blessed

real Value Statement instead of status – that’s the smart slogan of the Munich concept store Sois Blessed. And as soon as you enter the light-filled premises of the store, behind the grand Hotel Bayerischer Hof, you’ll realise that it’s not just an empty marketing promise. “Discover what makes you shine”: Carefully curated fashion, interior design, enchanting decorative knick-knacks and high quality accessories from bags to glasses – every individual piece looks as if it simply belongs here. If you speak to the owner Ruth Gombert about true values, it’s not so much her handpicked products she’ll talk about. Much more important to her is her charitable work supporting a South African school, her wish that Sois Blessed become a meeting place for the most diverse people with readings and cultural events, and the responsibility, as a store owner, to also offer a suitable platform to unknown start-up brands.

alberto

Specialising in precisely one type of clothing since 1922 has led to the German label Alberto becoming an absolute expert in its field, while also developing an unprecedented product diversity. From the universal business trousers to sporty chinos with reflectors for smart outdoor wear, down to the intelligent denim that keeps its shape for many washes to come. To sum up: Alberto offers a huge variety of trousers for him and her – for every situation and every mood.

soisblessed.com

trousers Galore

TexT andres damm

SEEK Berlin, 04. - 06.07.2017, Booth A66, www.schott.eu Showroom: Fashion Factory, Fichtenstraße 70, 40233 Düsseldorf, ad@ffbymg.com, +49 (0) 211-31129901

wood wood

danish dolce Vita

denhamthejeanmaker.com

woodwood.com

For spring/summer 2018, the label Wood Wood has drawn its inspiration from much warmer corners of the world than their homebase Denmark: The new designs are very much influenced by the Italian dolce vita, the island of Capri and dazzlingly glamorous personalities like Federico Fellini and Ettore Sottsass. In its effortless elegance, the collection does indeed emanate the lifestyle of Italian dandies soaking up the sun in Portofino. Doublebreasted, slim-fit suits with wide shoulders meet prints that the talented Mr Ripley would have approved of. In terms of the colour palette, typical Wood Wood tones like beige, navy and brown are complemented by vibrant summer colours like yellow, red and green. And in the sportier pieces in particular, the brand-typical streetstyle ID is clearly visible. Yet amidst all this Italian sensuality, the collection still manages to retain the typical Scandinavian clarity Wood Wood is famous for. And the minimalism – with no gold buttons in sight anywhere – makes this collection a contemporary interpretation of the fine art of Italian tailoring.

birkens to ck

health and beauty Once you’ve worn a pair of Birkenstocks, it will be hard to ever find another sandal as comfortable. Which also explains the ever-increasing fan community of the German sandal brand, who become Birkenstock wearers for life. After their success of the past decade, which the company achieved with the help of celebrity testimonials, changing their image to a lifestyle product rather than a fusty shoe for healthy feet, Birkenstock is introducing fashionable new models for spring/summer 2018, produced with materials like microfibre and rubber. And the brand is even taking things one step further: from autumn 2017, Birkenstock will also be launching a range of cosmetics. The recipe to success for the cosmetics line is the same as that of their previous endeavours – they only use selected natural ingredients and the packaging design is very understated. As well as hand cream, body moisturiser and lip balm, the offer also includes a mattifying hyaluron BB cream that wonderfully conceals small skin irregularities for a perfect complexion. birkenstock.com

denham

a decade of denim

sock it to ’em

Exuding sex appeal when you’re a sock manufacturer is no easy feat. But that’s exactly what the German company Falke has achieved. This no doubt has a lot to do with the brand’s slickly produced campaigns, but also the design of the socks themselves, which are always full of surprises. In the coming season, Falke is proving its clout with collections entitled “Nostalgia” and “Euphoria”. “Nostalgia” features graphic patterns that are reserved enough to be combined with a classic business look. “Euphoria”, on the other hand, requires a bit more fashion fearlessness: bright blue and turquoise variations, wave patterns and maritime prints might not float the boat of your average banker, but they’re sure to induce euphoria on Casual Fridays in many a creative department.

falke.com

fa l k e

Compared to some well-known jeans giants, ten years is a pretty tender young age, but what the label Denham has achieved during this period is not to be scoffed at. As well as jeans, Denham meanwhile also offers a complete fashion collection including tops, footwear and eyewear. To mark their tenth anniversary, the closeknit gang are looking to Japan: the brand is not only extremely popular in the Far East, but also works intensively with Japanese weaving looms and often references classic Japanese design elements, most notably Tokyo-inspired graphic patterns, as well as kimono-style silhouettes and a recurring print that combines camouflage and the Japanese katagami look. Source of inspiration No. 2 for the spring/ summer 2018 collection is the British origin of the company founder: military-looking trench coats and bomber jackets form a direct contrast to the bright and cheerful Japan look.

LE MELON L’ESPADRIJ L’ORIGINALE Made in France

Premium Berlin, 04. - 06.07.2017, Hall 3 Booth A06 ESAPDRIJ L’ORIGINALE®, Fichtenstraße 70, 40233 Düsseldorf, Germany ad@espadrij.com, +49 (0) 211-30212626, www.espadrij.com facebook.com/espadrij, instagram.com/espadrij

MESSAGE IN A BANGLE Every individual piece of BeSafe Angel jewellery by designer Nina Klein is one of a kind. Whether your initials, secret Morse code or geographic coordinates – if you order a necklace or a bangle from BeSafe Angel, you can contribute to the design by choosing your own engraving. And the collections’ elegant minimalism means that the focus is on the message. With the new “Numbers” series, you can, for example, tell them your place of birth or the place you first met your partner and the jewellery label will then find out the exact degree of longitude and latitude of the location and decoratively engrave it on a bangle for you. Even more mysterious are the pieces of the “Secrets” collection. What at first sight looks BESAFEANGEL.COM like a sleek graphic pattern on a slender silver or gold bracelet, that swings elegantly around the arm, is in reality an encrypted Morse code message in dots and dashes – up to 40 letters can be converted and worn as a secret message. All pieces of BeSafe Angel jewellery are handmade in Germany and make very personal gifts for friends, family and loved ones.

ZIMMERLI.COM

BITS & PIECES

BESAFEANGEL

B R A N D S T O WAT C H

STEFANIE KOBAYASHI EDITOR-IN-CHIEF “THE HERITAGE POST”

Z IMMERL I

DAZZLING COLOURS

Swiss label Zimmerli has been making underwear from extremely high-quality materials since 1871. As well as the natural materials raw silk, merino and cotton, the particularly waterrepellent fabric micro-modal is used, which feels similar to silk when worn. Next spring/summer, Zimmerli is staying true to its commitment to quality, but in terms of colour, the collection is a lot brighter than in previous seasons. Sumptuous prints celebrate the beauty of tropical flora and the floral embroidery, created in cooperation with swiss manufacturer Bischoff, is a real eyecatcher. Pillar-box red as a monochrome all-over colour very clearly demonstrates the brand’s self-confidence – which is a good thing, because underwear or no underwear, Zimmerli definitely has nothing to hide.

The perfect dress. Women look feminine and dignified in it. AN(+)OTHER is just a small brand, producing this one dress in different, cheerful colours. But sometimes that’s all that’s needed. No big collection every season. Just one sure thing.

One of our favourite designers in Japan is Koji Norihide (HAVERSACK) . He gets his inspiration from European military clothing and combines his collections with a great sensibility for shapes, patterns, colors and style.

BLACK SIGN is an amaz-

ing Japanese brand that celebrates the colour black. It exudes an authentic style inspired by vintage motorcycle clothing, freemasonry, and a time when leaving the house without a hat was unthinkable.

originalPenguin.com

tracKsmith.com

original P enguin

colourful summer For the upcoming spring/summer season, the label Original Penguin is embracing colour with various blue and turquoise tones accompanying orange and red. The brightly coloured stripes are a recurring theme, sometimes subtle and narrow on T-shirt sleeves and sometimes confidently dominant across an entire jacket. A humorous homage to the 80s and 90s are retro prints with colourful cassettes and wildly mixed graphic patterns.

t r acKsmi t h

Performance artists

It's all in the name, explain the founders of athletic-wear brand Tracksmith: “Track” is a symbol of commitment to training and racing, while “Smith” represents dedication to a specialised craft – an obsession with quality and function. So even if the label’s design impresses with a stylish 70s-style retro look, the sportswear pieces are, from a technical point of view, very much in keeping with the times. The collection by the New England company, founded in Boston, Massachusetts in 2014, was developed especially for longKen t & curWen distance runners, and is is extremely robust – and to achieve this, Tracksmith have been known to adopt some rather unusual meaThe Beckhams have a keen sense of business and fashion, but up to now it’s been sures. The cotton-jersey blend used for their Victoria who has been making more a name for herself in the high-fashion circuit. T-shirts, for example, is made in a 100-yearSpouse David’s fashion credentials were focused around his reputation as a sexy old textile mill. And when it comes to the underwear testimonial, modelling collections for H&M and Calvin Klein. But since fabrics they prefer to focus on the natural 2016 the most fashionable footballer of all time has been collaborating with creative properties of organic materials instead of undirector Daniel Kearns to design a collection for luxury label Kent & Curwen. The tranecessarily using polyester. Running sweaters ditional brand, established in the 1920s, is staying true to its roots. Their typical DNA are made of particularly water-resistant me– elegant Brit chic for the modern rino wool, and cotton jersey for the trousers gentleman – is still recognisable, ensures breathability and elasticity. but the iconic football player’s influence is apparent in the sportierthan-usual vibe. Fittingly, the capsule collection is entitled “Teams”, channelling more of a distinguished look than your average local footie team – think hockey, rugby or fencing clubs from the golden 20s.

Wear it liKe becKham

bu t ts and shoul ders

but tsandshoulders.com

KentandcurWen.com

Prime cuts The still relatively new label Butts and Shoulders only uses leather from the shoulder and the butt, the middle of the back, which are the best parts of a cowhide. It is tanned and dyed with natural substances and carefully finished by hand. The collection of the slow fashion label is intentionally compact: instead of a great many designs, the focus is on solid, quality craftmanship in small quantities. As proof of this, every shoe and every bag is numbered by hand.

ALPHA-STUDIO.COM

most wanted J'n'c Presents

EYECATCHER IT-PIECES MUST-HAVES FAVoURITES

saddle up! Backpack “pickwick”, Brooks

PhotograPhy ChrisToph sagel

committed to the vision of its founding members from 1866, the British company Brooks produces durable products of the highest quality like leather saddles and bicycle accessories. tailored to the needs of today’s consumers, they now also make rucksacks that are practical and functional. the models, which remind us of courier bags, combine the best of modern technology while always staying true to the timeless Brooks aesthetic with traditional tweed and leather details.

styling ivo WojCik

Brooksengland.com

Production & text ThorsTen osTerberger

most wanted

Workingclass hero

T-shirT “henley”, Merz B. schWanen

As soon as you set foot inside the factory in Schwäbisch Gmünd, Germany, the circular knitting machines from the 1920s instantly reveal the company’s passion for man and machine. In 2011, under the name Merz b. Schwanen, the brand was awoken from its deep slumber with a small collection centred around workers’ undershirts designs from the 1920s to the 1940s. The shirt for summer 2018 in subtle green is traditionally finished with a colourcontrasting button placket and knitted edging. Merz-schWanen.coM

JULY 4 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 6, BERLIN

Station-Berlin www.premiumexhibitions.com

Traces of Time

Jeans “Grim Tim DaviD replica”, nuDie Jeans co.

Swedish label Nudie Jeans is setting a good example: Their denim is woven from organic cotton, the jeans are produced with numerous certificates like GOTS and FWF, confirming the fair manufacturing processes. As well as unwashed jeans there are also Replica models — such as the “Grim Tim David Replica”, that feel as soft as a worn and lived-in pair of favourite jeans right from the beginning and have a cool patina and individual wear-and-tear look in a comfortable relaxed fit. nuDieJeans.com

most wanted

Walking on sunshine slipper “rafia”, inuikii

Swiss family label Inuikii, established in 2013, specialises in winter boots with lambskin lining that combine craftsmanship and attention to detail. The boots have achieved cult status and are meanwhile sold by many luxury retailers. When it comes to the creations by designer Cinzia Maag, the mix of different materials — high-quality leather, glittery sequins, colour prints or shiny metallic details — is key. The portfolio ranges from designs with understated elegance to striking one-offs. Good news for sunny days: Maag meanwhile also designs summer models with a high-quality flexible outer sole and surprising, colour-contrasting leather highlights.

inuikii.com

RetRo at its best

bowling shoe, FRed PeRRy

The first cool item by British brand Fred Perry was a sweatband that made its debut at Wimbledon in the 1940s, followed by polo shirts that still boast the classic design to this day. Amidst the massive sneaker trend of recent years that has spawned a deluge of high-tech models by big sportswear brands, Fred Perry is still flying the flag for its retro models. And rightly so, because the stylish canvas shoes with embroidered logo are incredibly comfortable and simply look the part with their casual heritage charm. FRedPeRRy.com

th e m a r ke tpl a ce for fashion and lifestyle

4 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 6 J U LY 2 0 1 7

W W W. PA N O R A M A- B E RL I N .C O M

EssEntial viEwing

assortEd glassEs, andy wolf

Individual, durable, sustainable: Centuries of craftsmanship meet modern design and highest quality when eyewear label Andy Wolf manufactures its products in Austria â&#x20AC;&#x201D; it takes over 90 steps to create an original pair of glasses. A French producer makes the finest filigree metal frames, the hinges come from a milling shop that usually makes miniscule precision parts for watches. The new models have charming names like Lisa H., Margit and Brigitte P. Whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s not to like?! andy-wolf.com

most wanted

Earn your stripEs LongsLEEvE “MariniÈrE ModErnE”, saint JaMEs

Founded in 1889 and named after its hometown in Normandy, the label Saint James is still producing collections in the tradition of its founding fathers. In 2013, the French brand was honoured as a “Living Cultural Heritage Company” — a compliment to its authentic products and incomparable, skilled craftsmanship. Our favourite: the striped, off-white longsleeve, a nod to the traditional maritime tops worn by sailors in Brittany. Because a genuine classic is only really a classic when it’s hard to imagine the fashion world without it, and when it can be reinterpreted over and over again, simply and with style. saintJaMEs.dE

mosT wAnTed

Timeless performer

“AdApTive JAckeT”, AeAnce

Young label Aeance is translating the athletic hype in a functional, timelessly elegant and sustainable way. For its second season, the premium sportswear brand got designer Steven Tai on board, who is presenting a collection true to the label’s name, a portmanteau of “aesthetics”, “athletics” and “performance”. The “Adaptive Jacket” from the “Sleek Ninja” line, which is made from high-tech recycled materials, stands out with its understated, classic design. AeAnce.com

DISCOVER OUR NEW SPRING / SUMMER COLLECTION PANORAMA, BERLIN: 04.-06.07.17 HALLE 29, DÜSSELDORF: 22.-24.07.17 GDS DÜSSELDORF: 25.-26.08.17 WWW.CAMELACTIVE.DE

HALL 3, 3.06

D E N I M D OT S w w w.alb ert o-p ant s.com

GOOD STUFF

THE TIMELESS ATTRACTION OF QUALITY Trends may well be the driving force of the fashion industry, but a changing canon of values in a world focusing more and more on sustainability increases the demand for products offering a high quality, durability and timeless design — the kind of good stuff you’ll lovingly hold onto for a lifetime.

J'N'C S P E C I A L

INTERVIEWS: FASHION EXPERTS AND THEIR TAKE ON GOOD STUFF ESSAY: QUALITY – THE NEW STATUS SYMBOL

COLUMN: JOURNALIST TANJA NEDWIG ABOUT THE FRAGRANCE OF THINGS 69

LEANDER RIEDL

FASHION SHOOT: LOOKING FAB IN TIMELESS CLASSICS

inTerVieWs Cloat gerold tHorsten osterBerger

Jeroen van rooiJen Journal ist / Zurich

A timeless classic has value, maintains it over the years and creates an emotional attachment.

How does a product become a timeless classic? it should be made well, treated well and sold in a fitting environment, without being trivialised or devalued by non-experts. a timeless classic is most likely quite simple, logical and understandable. Is it possible for a style or a pattern to grow into becoming “timeless” through constant repetition?

Yes – it either becomes an annoying plague, or a valued evergreen. anything in between is not enough. The longer something is in use, the more likely it will become a beloved classic. Buzzwords and slogans like “slow fashion” and “less is more” are trending right now. Can you tell if this development will catch on in the long term? For some people in Western societies, it certainly will become more and more important – especially for those who have a lot of posessions and are fed up with the lifestyle of mass consumption. People are finding out that shopping doesn´t necessarily give them a better life, and are starting to

ask questions, like whether things can be more simple, essential, long-lasting and durable. Can you imagine a younger generation in the future spending more money on timeless pieces than on short-lived trends? it probably won´t be a younger generation, but the generation that is young right now will search for meanings beyond over-consumption and mass market production. i guess they will value craftmanship and uniqueness more when they grow older. For the very young, i think we should be tolerant and let them consume, overdo it and find out for themselves. Full interview on jnc.net from 1.8.17

andrea Monica Hug

good stuff

The creative writer and fashion aficionado is co-founder of the blog style Post.

interview

anita tillMann M an agin g Part ner P re MiuM grouP / Berl in

A timeless piece is supposed to stay beautiful and fashionable as time passes. instead of buying fast fashion that will be discarded quickly, the trend today is to choose well and buy quality products with a longer lifespan and a timeless design. What innovations will shape the near future? i recently visited the Techtextile tradeshow: it’s fascinating what’s going on with functional and fashionable materials – from fabrics grown from micro organisms to garments made of orange peels to products with special enhancing fibres woven into the materials, to name just a few. The market is huge and holds great potential. Full interview on jnc.net from 1.8.17

good stuff

Will high-tech in the manufacturing sector make handcraftsmanship completely obsolete one day? There will always be handcrafted manufacturing. Technology doesn’t rule this out. i think technology will complement the production and that this fusion will lead to innovative new products that have the potential to enrich our lives.

Will durability and timeless design be more important in a future that is focusing increasingly on sustainability? Both the Millenials and their following generations are focusing much more on sustainability and fair trade than our generation ever did. They are born into a world of increasing environmental pollution and dwindling resources. due to the fact that news is spread globally in an instant, people are constantly confronted with the problems, and this is resulting in a more sustainable lifestyle. But it’s not just about a sustainable supply chain, it’s also a matter of appreciating the value of a product.

Boris Kralj

anita Tillman is the founder of Fashion Tech Berlin, a conference centred around the future of fashion.

interview

JuDith haase & Pierre Jorge gonZaleZ archi t ec ts / Berl in

good stuff

Classic design is clearly recognisable because it has entered the collective memory.

The duo designs modern gallery, office and retail spaces for customers around the globe.

Pierre Jorge gonzalez: in reality, anything not trendy is dated. i’ts not a goal to be trendy, but if your design is contemporary and interesting, it falls into the “trendy” category, or better yet: it creates a trend.

When planning the drafts for your shop designs are you aiming for a timeless design or a more ontrend look? Judith Haase: We start from scratch with each project by looking for the right language for the product. it’s not about creating a language for being trendy. We work with the space and its lighting, creating circulation and movement and, in a second stage, we work with materials and their interplay within the given surroundings.

In your experience, how long ist the average lifetime of a brand’s store interior? JH: around five to ten years. everything should keep evolving and we do not see our design as timeless. if we designed the same shop we did five years ago, it would definitely look different. We are always evolving. What does it take for an interior design to look timeless? We’re not sure what you mean by

timeless. is it timeless for a season, a decade, a century? Forever? What timeless usually refers to is a reduced form of design and stylistic language. But in reality it’s a form of minimalist design that is associated with timeless design. We are not sure it’s a style that you can predict and therefore design deliberately and consciously. unless you repeat what someone else has already done. What’s your favourite classic? JH: The F51 armchair in yellow, designed by Walter gropius. PJg: i’m not sure i could name one. sometimes it’s a piece from the 40s, then from the 50s and so on. Full interview on jnc.net from 1.8.17

contemporary fashion trade show

4 - 6 ju l y aren a ber l in w ww . se ek e xh i bi t io n s . co m

interview

caro Daur influencer / haMBurg

Trendiness and quality should always be in Harmony.

good stuff

caro daur has modelled for calzedonia and dolce & gabbana and blogs about beauty, fashion and lifestyle on carodaur.com.

How does a product become a timeless classic? a timeless classic tells a story. For me it´s something that exudes traditional values and suits every era. Can you imagine a younger generation in the future spending more money on timeless pieces than on short-lived trends? absolutely. recently i also started

investing in timeless pieces. it´s just so much more efficient. i wear them much more often and i really feel connected to them. Is it possible for a certain style or a print pattern to grow into becoming “timeless” because it has been repeatedly on trend so many times throughout fashion history? Yes. i think that especially at this time, the world is adapting new styles, especially right now. everything is possible. Please name three timeless classics everybody should have. a chanel bag, ray Ban sunglasses and a pair of levi´s 510s. Why? Because

they all look good everywhere and in every situation! Please name three very trendy products you are glad of having hung on to over the years. My givenchy boots, because they are so comfortable and special. My dior earrings with my initials (cd), because they´re just super cool?! and also i really love my Vetements high heels — so comfortable and special! Your favourite timeless classic? My cartier Panthère watch. it tells a story and is simply beautiful! even my mom wants to steal it! Full interview on jnc.net from 1.8.17

interview

anDrea canÈ g l o B a l c r e at i v e D i r e c t o r W o o l r i c h i n t e r n at i o n a l / B o l o g n a

When design and functionality are perfectly balanced and meet the needs of consumers, items become icons.

Why do you think the design of your renowned arctic Parka is still up to date after all these years? The arctic Parka has always been a garment with a purpose! it was made for the alaskan pipeline workers and is still functional for the cold climates of today. Have you ever changed the materials or manufacturing techniques used to produce the arctic Parka? The major change has been altering the fit of the parka to a more contemporary body silhouette. We also introduced some variations concerning the textile – such as the goretex parka and the loro Piana storm system Wool parka. Two fabrics that appeal to the tastes of our consumers, the first one with an emphasis on innovative material, the other one on luxury. The result is functionality and beauty in a balance that is very contemporary.

do you think durability and timeless design will be more important in a future that is increasingly focusing on sustainability? and can you imagine younger generations being more selective as consumers and spending more money on long-lasting classic pieces than on short-lived trends? i don´t have an answer to that yet. But if i think about my son´s future i believe we have to be more conscious and focus more on sustainability. But we won´t succeed if governments everywhere don´t seriously start supporting the same principles on a much larger scale. What are some of your personal favourite timeless classics and why? if you´re asking me about timeless products that i´ve kept in my wardrobe and i´m still wearing now, i would say: my Baracuta jacket (formal but also casual and “rebellious”), my Barbour oiled jacket (for my countryside and fishing passion) and my Woolrich arctic Parka that has protected me ever since i was a student riding around on my Vespa. Full interview on jnc.net from 1.8.17

good stuff

What would you say is the ratio of very trendy products to timeless classics in your product range ? i´d say the ratio is 60/40: 60 percent timeless products and 40 percent that are more based on today’s needs.

What do you think is more important in today's market, trends or traditions? Both — the market needs traditions to drive innovations.

dating all the way back to 1830, Woolrich caters for workers in rough conditions as well as fashionistas in the urban jungle.

interview

JaKoB DWorsKy & august BarD Bringéus founDers a sKe t / sto cKholM

We decided to question every industry rule to create timeless classics that make no compromises.

good stuff

swedish label asket focuses on slow fashion, basic pieces, timeless design and longevity.

What´s your philosophy? The idea behind asket comes from our own very personal frustration with the clothing industry. We were sick and tired of the fact that it was so hard to find something as seemingly simple as a plain, well-fitting quality T-shirt at a decent price. despite the abundance of garments produced every year, finding the garments we actually use – the T-shirt, the oxford button-down shirt, the crew-neck sweatshirt – was

ridiculously hard. We were constantly navigating a disappointing path of compromises between designs that are outdated the day they hit the shelves, overpaying for “quality” or paying too little for garments that will tear after one wash. Is quality forced to take a back seat to trendiness too often? unfortunately yes. The fashion industry is extremely competitive and has reached a pace that poses huge financial challenges. creating trendy, seasonal collections to stay new and interesting and selling them via countless middlemen requires a 7-10x financial mark-up for traditional brands to make money off their bets,

even after end-of-season sales with 70 percent off. in this value chain set-up, it’s easier for a brand to cut corners in production than invest in quality and increase the prices. Will durability and timeless design be more important in a future that is focusing on sustainability? definitely. We want to slow down the industry´s extreme pace by creating only garments that you really need, never go out of style and can be used every day. so our main sustainability pillar is to create garments that are made to last in every respect. Timeless design and long-lasting quality are the foundations. Full interview on jnc.net from 1.8.17

INFINITE B E YO N D S E A S O N S

TUE.

WED.

S E PT E M BE R 2 0 17

T H U R S DAY

#BLUEZONEMUNICH BLUEZONE MUNICH WWW.MUNICHFABRICSTART. COM

interview

Daniel toDD B u y e r at M r P o r t e r / l o n D o n

A timeless classic should be an item that has been made with great attention to detail and is something you can pull out of your wardrobe in years to come.

also look great with jeans and a washed oxford shirt. This brings me onto the second classic – a white cotton oxford shirt. a white button-down oxford shirt from designers such as Thom Browne and officine générale is a distinguished wardrobe staple that can be worn with everything from denim to pressed trousers.

What criteria are important when it comes to your brand portfolio? For us it is ultimately about a carefully curated edit, ensuring that we’re providing everything our customer might want. The breadth of our product offering is continuously growing to move with the times and respond to the increasingly discerning male shopping habits.

and last but not least, an unstructured slim-fit blazer. a tailored separate that can be worn with denim or chinos. Boglioli is the epitome of relaxed, stylish and comfortable tailoring, in a lightweight and neat cut that will stand the test of time.

Please recommend three timeless classics every man should own. There are many classics that a man should own in my opinion. if i had to pick three, i would say a decent pair of bench-made leather shoes such as a derby or a brogue by john lobb or o’Keeffe. it’s important to invest in shoes as it’s the first thing people see. They finish off a suit but

What´s your personal favourite timeless classic? My navy dior Homme pea coat is the best thing i ever bought. i think i paid £300 for it second hand, it looked brand new and still does today. it´s not a fashion style but one of the few things that looks as good today as it did the day i bought it and will still look the same in another ten years’ time. Full interview on jnc.net from 1.8.17

alBerT raVen

good stuff

Featuring over 400 brands, Mr Porter is one of the most renowned online platforms for men´s style.

interview

Martiene raven f r e e l a n c e c r e at i v e D i r e c t o r & t r e n D c a s t e r / B e r l i n

In your opinion, what does it take for a product to be called a timeless classic? Funnily enough a timeless classic needs time. it has to be able to stand the test of time. classics mostly derive from a deeper need, an anti-movement, influenced by economic change or the urge to create a better solution. coco chanel refused to wear the tight-

fitting dresses of the late 19th century and created her outfit from a men’s shirt and trousers. comfortable and practical clothing fitted the era of the early 20th century perfectly. History and heritage are what often makes a piece a timeless classic. There are more modern classics too, of course. For example: strongly branded by adidas as “Forever a classic” and emotionally influenced by 80s pop culture, superstar originals are very much defining the street style image once again. Frances corner, head of the london college of Fashion asks an interesting question in the book “Why Fashion Matters”: “if all art was once contemporary, were all clothes once fashionable?”

do you think durability and timeless design will be more important in a future that is focusing increasingly on sustainability? absolutely. some designers are downscaling the number of their shows annually and i know several designers who are choosing to design and create pieces that last more than one season or to produce made-by-order only. sustainability will become a more integral part of our society, just like the level of safety we have right now in comparison to, let’s say in the early 20th century. The question is how willing consumers, companies and governmental institutions are to change and adapt. Full interview on jnc.net from 1.8.17

casPer sejersen

Martiene raven is the founder of rabenmütter, an online trend guide on brands with a conscience.

good stuff

Sustainable fashion will no longer be a niche, but a longterm change in the fashion industry.

interview

DaviDe canciani g r o u P M a r K e t i n g D i r e c t o r v i B r a M / a l B i Z Z at e , i t a ly

Trends can well be translated into high quality products.

good stuff

Vibram has been one of the most successful manufacturers of soles since 1937. What has enabled your products to stay on top of the market for so many decades? The main feature of our products is the quality, certainly in terms of quality assurance but, also, if not more, in terms of satisfaction of the required performance by the final users. The latter is guaranteed by the combination of the two components that make Vibram soles unique in the market: the compound that guarantees the typical Vibram performance – extreme durability, maximum grip and traction – and the design, which despite the focus on maximising the performance, is constantly up to date in terms of style and appearance. trekking and mountaineering boots are quite fashionable right now. do you think this is because the sporty

design is on trend or do durability and quality also play a role? Probably both. in the last few years a new trend has developed: the urban-outdoor that mixes the look and performance of the two markets. and the quality of a product is becomimg more important when deciding to make a purchase. Will durability and timeless design be more important in a market that is focusing increasingly on sustainability? in my mind, the sustainability concept is something bigger than only durability and timeless design. it should be a different approach to the business, from the beginning to the end. it covers the production organisation – i.e. changing the processes for reducing the use of natural resources, identifying ways to re-use the production waste to the regular “white-collar” activities – i.e. more consciousness in the use of electric energy, paper, etc. Full interview on jnc.net from 1.8.17

interview

darren McKoy G l o b a l P r o d u c t c a t e G o r y M a n a G e r d r. M a r t e n s / l o n d o n

What is the secret of keeping your traditional products up to date? dr. Martens has a rich cultural and design heritage that we can draw inspiration from. the secret is taking that back story and interpreting it for new generations of footwear consumers. We aim to balance the iconic dr. Martens dNa with updated and fresh models that progress the brand and keep it moving with the times. In response to a shift in global footwear trends towards lighter-weight, ath-

leisure footwear, we created our dM’s lite range. We are proud to have created a story that is instantly recognisable as a faithful interpretation of our originals collection, yet incorporates contemporary attributes such as a new leather upper and modernity through the sole construction that makes them two-thirds lighter. What 21st century techniques and materials are you using? We are always looking to innovate in our materials and production techniques. a lot of developments come from our industrial range, from where they then filter into our mainline. Market research, consumer trends and reconnaissance trips also drive our creative direction on a seasonal

basis, which in turn identifies areas of focus for material innovation. How do you choose your cooperation partners, and what´s in store for the future? Stüssy and Supreme have been partners of the brand for a number of years as they have similar subcultural followings to dr. Martens in terms of surf, skate and the wider street culture. We look for tie-ups where there is a strong and authentic affinity with our brand. We have a strategic plan that focuses on music, art, street fashion and youth culture. We have formed strong bonds and partnerships in these fields and will continue to strengthen them. Full interview on jnc.net from 1.8.17

Cloat Gerold

good stuff

With a history stretching back to 1960, dr. Martens is one of Britain´s most traditional shoe brands.

the cosy look and feel of a happy family business with lots of cheerful faces: right next to the former home of dr. Martens founder Bill Griggs, the site in Northamptonshire is the only remaining UK factory, producing "Made in england" and high-end collaboration ranges.

PhotoGraPhy Cloat Gerold

In the familiar atmosphere of dr. Martens’ Cobbs lane factory, even J’N’C editor-in-chief thorsten osterberger couldn’t resist getting his hands on one of the production machines.

DR. MaRtens

DR. MaRtens cobbs lane factoRy

E S S AY

Quality — thE nEw status SYmbol

Consumption is part of our culture and as much as we are aware of its effects, the need and desire to consume is unlikely to go away any time soon. Here´s a plea for quality, a shift in culture, from “more is more” to “better is better”.

It’s a familiar situation: you go to the supermarket to buy something you need, something really ordinary, let’s say mustard. You’re in a hurry, reach the aisle and then quickly need to make a decision. Mild, medium or extra hot? French, American or english? Plain, with tarragon or grainy? the choice can be overwhelming. Don’t get us wrong, choice is good and we should be happy that we live in parts of the world where we have all of these options. However, too much of a good thing

can be suffocating. “Stuffocation” is a term coined by author James Wallman and also the title of his book that was published in 2015 and has the subtitle “Living More with Less”. According to Wallmann, there are several ways to live a happier life with less stuff, one of them being “experientialism”– focusing on having valuable experiences instead of acquiring more stuff. A few months ago, I met with representatives of the communications department of one of the

LeAnDer rIeDL

good stuff

text Björn LüdTke

Quality is eveRything. We live in a dispOsable age WheRe eveRything is getting FasteR, pROduct liFe cycles aRe shORteR and tRends aRe being Made by instagRaM and sOcial celebRity MOMents. this is all tRue but i believe in lOngevity and sustainability. that all cOMes FROM Quality. Quality is tiMeless and Will Outlive eveRy tRend. what we consume. So maybe now, more than ever, this is the time to shift our focus from quantity to quality. (And to also stop using the term “stuff”.)

DEtAIlS mAttER

What is quality? We ask Jason Denham, founder of the eponymous denim brand: “Quality is everything. We live in a disposable age where everything is getting faster, product life cycles are shorter and trends are being made by Instagram and social celebrity moments. this is all true but I strongly believe in longevity and sustainability. that all comes from quality. Quality is timeless and will outlive every trend. the essence of quality is good design and premium materials.” Quality doesn’t end with the product. Let’s take a little field trip to Japan. It’s not a cliché that the Japanese pay a lot of attention to pretty much every detail of their lives. After all, we are talking about a country that has designed an entire ceremony around the act of making a cup of green tea. every part of the experience is meticulously thought through: from the path that leads to the tea house, to the way you enter the room, to the way you actually drink the tea, to the topics you talk about while drinking it. Of course, not every morning cup of matcha is celebrated in this way. However, the ceremony says a lot about appreciation, not just of the mundane, but the process itself. Successful brands and retailers have known this for a while. they know that to be able to compete in an ever-changing and challenging retail environment, shopping needs to be an experience that

creates additional value for the customer, whether offline or online. Hannes Schönegger is co-founder and CeO of luggage manufacturer Qwstion: “Our flagship store concept is designed to be an engaging platform for experiences. We offer like-minded brands the opportunity to tell their story as well. this is how we create a space for the interaction between designers and customers. this is shopping with added value and we think it’s a core element for the successful retail of the future.” Creating a shopping experience is nothing new. Actually, the idea is more than 100 years old, since Harry Gordon Selfridge opened his department store in London back in 1909. We just seem to remember its necessity every time the retail industry faces structural change. As our values shift from “more is more” to “better is better”, we experience dimensions of quality that go beyond the actual product. Fashion designer rené Storck’s take: “We experience really good quality on different levels. It’s a kind of energy you cannot fake. the times in which ‘good quality’ was defined by a product’s mere appearance are over. today, quality means understanding where a product comes from, who made it and how it was made. this trend started with food and meanwhile penetrates all other parts of our lives. It’s great to see that this higher conscience is finally touching the things we wear on our bodies.” When we start to care about the context of the products we purchase, quality itself becomes the experience. Leander riedl manufactures luxury leather goods

Qualit y — the new status symbol

J A S o n D E nh A m, D E nh A m

FROM “MORe is MORe” tO “betteR is betteR”

big German mail order businesses. Over lunch, most of us (the over-30s at the table) were chatting away about the fashion business, where its future is headed and so on. the youngest at the table, the intern (who must have been around 21), was mute for most of the conversation — until it turned to technology. We engaged in a conversation on how important smartphones and technology are for the youth of today and that they would rather save their money for an iPhone than buy designer clothes. Are the kids losing interest in fashion? Anita tillmann is founder and managing partner at Premium exhibitions. tillmann and her team are not only up to speed when it comes to trends in fashion, but across the entire business, which is why they launched #Fashiontech, a conference at the intersection of fashion and technology. She also has twin girls of school age. Is the interest in fashion fading in favour of technology? “Of course, they know their smartphones … [but] not from what I am observing. Obviously, fashion is my day-to-day business because it’s my job, but it’s also a strong topic at home. So it comes as no surprise that my twin girls are taking interest in their styling; they spend a lot of their pocket money on clothes. they’re nine years old. And it’s not just them: when I take them to school, I’ve never seen so many cool kids in one place. they all wear the right kicks and know everything about them.” We live in a culture of selfies; presenting yourself is what it’s all about. It’s hard to imagine that the desire for the most liked #ootd on social media is going anywhere any time soon. Fashion and technology seem to complement rather than exclude each other. the appeal for downsizing is probably as old as consumerism. And yes, having less stuff is healthy, but let’s face it: we live in the 21st century and consumption is part of our culture. telling us to get rid of all (or most of) our stuff is like telling a Brit to stop drinking tea, a Frenchie to stop eating baguette or an Italian to stop eating pasta. We desire nice things. And it is likely to remain this way for the foreseeable future. Our thirst for fashion doesn’t seem to be going away any time soon either. And who says that making a grand entrance in the latest designer dress or the perfect bespoke suit cannot be an experience in itself? But it’s true, consumer demands are changing – and contradictory. We want stuff; however, we seem to be becoming more mindful of

Qualit y — the new status symbol

by hand: “When our customers engage with a product that they always wanted or that they are purchasing for a special occasion, the smallest details gain the utmost importance. When customising, they enjoy identifying what they really expect from a product and become part of its manufacturing process.”

If You cARE – REPAIR

Designer Julia Seifert named her label after her grandmother Philomena Zanetti. With her collections, she wants to prove that “environmentalism and highquality fashion are no contradiction”. For Seifert, quality is a question of appreciation and attitude: “When you choose a product of high quality, no matter what it is, it is about enjoying and appreciation – be it yourself or others … it expresses an inner attitude.” Is quality possible without considering sustainability? Among all the people I have interviewed for this piece, the mutual agreement is: no. For Jason Denham, quality and sustainability “go together. Sustainability is a big word generally quite misunderstood but the meaning is: the combination of longevity and sustainability creates quality.” Hannes Schönegger from Qwstion: “Sustainability has a lot to do with having respect for our environ-

ment. Our understanding of quality is based on the respect we have for resources and work methods.” A status symbol is a perceived visible, external denotation of a person’s social position and an indicator of economic or social belonging. Wearing such a status symbol indicates the tribe I associate with. Presenting such symbols is not new to humankind. Being pale used to be a status symbol in times when physical labour in the fields was for peasants. But in modern times the reverse became the case: having a tan was only for those who could afford to go on holiday. In the 1980s it was all about showing off and big logos were en vogue, regardless of the quality of a garment. this kind of conspicuous consumption still exists. However, status symbols can be subtler and they might not be

hAnnES S chönEg gER, QwS t Ion

sustainability has a lOt tO dO With having Respect FOR OuR enviROnMent. OuR undeRstanding OF Quality is based On the Respect We have FOR ResOuRces and WORk MethOds. LeAnDer rIeDL

good stuff

the fact that new doesn’t necessarily equal good is something the aristocracy has always understood. If your tails are new, everybody knows you’re from new money, and that’s something nobody wants in these circles. Partaking in sustainable consumption means not buying goods you want to throw away the second you don’t like them anymore. If you buy products of quality, it is likely you won’t want to ever throw them away, that you want to take care of and repair them and will even pass them on to next generations. Mending is back in fashion. rik van Dijk, european marketing director at red Wing Heritage: “red Wing Heritage as a footwear brand has never chased trends or fashion. Our goal is always to try and make quality footwear that lasts. We focus more on other things, such as our resoling service. All regions that sell red Wing boots also have dedicated cobblers who can resole or repair your boots. We also focus on boot care by giving training to stores and offering clinics to customers. Our website features clear instructions and even videos on how to take care of your boots. If this is done right, you can wear them for decades.”

4 - 6 J ULY 2017 F U N K H AU S B ER LIN

the more durable the things you wear, the longer you will wear them and the more they will mirror what is happening in your life. On my last trip to Selvedge run, the tradeshow exhibiting some of the best denim out there, I bumped into Pete Searson from tellason Denim: “Surround your-

self with a few things that keep you warm for a long time. things that have a chance of becoming more interesting over time. Fix them when they break.” “I […] have a 7-year-old tanner Goods leather belt. It is my only belt and I remember taking my 3 and 5-year-old girls hiking down a dried creek in town. I had some rope and a pulley and had the idea of making them a zip line in the forest but needed a harness to hold them as they sailed through the trees. I took off my belt and wrapped it around their waists and they spent the afternoon begging for more!”

experience and quality goods don’t exclude each other; together they create memories with patina, a bit like souvenirs. Designer rené Storck: “this is how you spot quality. Poorly made items don’t age well, they simply become shabby.” Patina can become a status symbol, according to Sven Adam, commercial director D/A/CH at Original Penguin: “It needs to be authentic. Fake patina is ridiculous.” And only then does it become a metaphor for quality, for things that are well made, rather than just “stuff”, representing new values that show you care.

f El I x S tAE uDIn gER, PAn oR A m A E uRoP E

Quality is the FiRst-Rate cRaFtsManship OF pReMiuM MateRials that enables us tO WeaR a pROduct FOR Many yeaRs tO cOMe — and that incReases its patina and chaRM.

LeAnDer rIeDL

good stuff 69 58

perceived as such in a traditional way. Johan Loman from the label Stutterheim, which manufactures handmade raincoats, is convinced: “the subtly crafted details of a well-made coat can be as much a status symbol as a big logo showing where you belong in society.” Leander riedl: “the rule used to be: the higher the quality of a product, the more expensive it was and the higher the apparent status of its wearer. this equation doesn’t really work anymore. Quality and price are separate considerations. I can signal status through price, but also through quality. While the former is obtrusive and needs a big price tag that everybody is aware of and where quality plays a minor role, the latter inspires with a kind of quality that depends on material, workmanship and subtle design.”

4 - 6 J U LY 2017 F U NK H AU S BERL I N

NICK: LEATHER JACKET SANDRO, TURTLENECK DRYKORN, TROUSERS PRIVATE WHITE V.C. SOCKS FALKE, SHOES LUDWIG REITER — LESLIE: DRESS STELLA MCCARTNEY* NECKLACE LILIAN VON TRAPP, SHOES ALEXANDER MCQUEEN VINTAGE — OTTO: DENIM JACKET WRANGLER POLOSHIRT BEN SHERMAN TROUSERS SISSI GOETZE, SCARF ROCKINS* SOCKS FALKE, SHOES CLARKS *at net-a-porter

fashion

I WANT TO KNOW HOW IT WILL BE ME AND HER OR YOU AND ME WHAT CAN WE DO NOW THAT WE BOTH LOVE YOU? I LOVE YOU TOO BUT I DON'T REALLY SEE WHY CAN'T WE GO ON AS THREE? DaviD Crosby

photography Suzana Holtgrave

hair & make-up tony lundStrรถm @ BloSSom

styling Bianca FleiScH

models leSlie & otto @ m4modelS, nick @ coremanagement

DENIM JACKET WHYRED, T-SHIRT ASKET TROUSERS PRIVATE WHITE V.C.

fashion *at urban outfitters

LESLIE: SHIRT WRANGLER, JEANS FILIPPA K, BRACELET & EARRING SASKIA DIEZ OTTO: DENIM JACKET LOOM*, SHIRT UNIQLO, JEANS WRANGLER

fashion 69

SHIRT PRIVATE WHITE V.C., DENIM JACKET LEVI'S, TROUSERS HOLLAND & SHERRY

LESLIE: DRESS STELLA MCCARTNEY* â&#x20AC;&#x201D; OTTO: DENIM JACKET WRANGLER POLOSHIRT BEN SHERMAN, SCARF ROCKINS*

*at net-a-porter

BOMBER JACKET SCHOTT NYC, T-SHIRT ASKET, TROUSERS PRIVATE WHITE V.C. SOCKS STANCE, SHOES FILIPPA K

fashion 69

SUIT DRYKORN, PULLOVER ASKET PIN SASKIA DIEZ

fashion 69

SUIT WHYRED, TURTLENECK BRIONI SHOES VANS

fashion 69

LESLIE: SWEATER & SKIRT SANDRO, BRACELET SASKIA DIEZ NECKLACE LILIAN VON TRAPP â&#x20AC;&#x201D; OTTO: SWEATER Z ZEGNA, TROUSERS ETRO

TROUSERS PRIVATE WHITE V.C., SOCKS FALKE, SHOES LUDWIG REITER NECKLACE WERKSTATT:MÃ&#x153;NCHEN

fashion 69

SWEATER FALKE, TROUSERS Z ZEGNA

fashion 69

LESLIE: TRENCHCOAT A.P.C., SHOES MIU MIU VINTAGE, SUNGLASSES BYWP OTTO: TRENCHCOAT BURBERRY, SWEATER FRED PERRY, SHORTS FILIPPA K, SOCKS FALKE SHOES DR. MARTENS

COAT PRIVATE WHITE V.C., JEANS & JACKET LOOM* BRACELET & RING WERKSTATT:MÃ&#x153;NCHEN

*at urban outfitters

fashion 69

JACKET SANDRO, T-SHIRT SAMSOE & SAMSOE TROUSERS BRUNELLO CUCINELLI, SUNGLASSES DIOR

fashion 69

BLAZER LACOSTE, JACKET LEVI'S, BODY SCHIESSER, TROUSERS FILIPPA K, BRACELET SASKIA DIEZ, NECKLACE LILIAN VON TRAPP, SHOES CHANEL VINTAGE

column

c olumn by tanja nedwig

good stuff

in search of time or the fragrance of things

A friend of mine recently asked me to tell her the new trend colours for next winter. I scrolled through the SeeNow-Buy-Now collections and replied, “Aubergine, rust, dusty pink, crimson, white, black, petrol blue.” I didn’t want to be a Little Miss Know-It-All and Our contributor give her an answer like, “Well, maybe Tanja Nedwig works trend colours are simply a product of as a communications expert and journalever shorter intervals, the deluge of imist and blogs about fashion and lifestyle ages, trends and must-haves that leave at waitamo.de behind a void of meaning.” Perhaps the philosopher Byung-Chul Han, whose book “The Transparency Society” is currently at the top of my reading pile, may have given such an answer. According to him, spontaneity, eventfulness and freedom are the elements that define life. So, in that case, why can’t we simply decide to hone our own style, just the way we want to? I thought back to the time I bought a new trench coat, around the same time as we were reading Roland Barthes at uni. He had written that the “now” gives structure to fashion and that the sense of purpose provided by fashion is a true “luxury of the spirit” because it is like a narrative. Half a century has passed since he wrote those words and you don’t have to be a clairvoyant to understand that even the minimal temporal unit of the linguistic or figurative “now” has disappeared, in the same way that a spring season no longer lasts three months. This only intensifies our quest for structures that last beyond the “now 24/7” and that more and more sectors of society are yearning for. What factors could take a stand against interchangeability and preserve cultural identity? The sense of purpose and the dreams that fashion

can convey will dissipate if you don’t give them the opportunity for stillness and distance. This is how Walter Benjamin described fashion in his writing: as the “… predecessor, no, the eternal placeholder of surrealism.” If fashion is the predecessor of dreams, surely we need to reopen the door of time? A renaissance of style, craftsmanship, the return to quality, reliability and structure seems more than logical. Roland Barthes’ idea that fashion doesn’t need to banish the past with one fell swoop sounds visionary today: “Transformation is implementable, yet still ingenious.” What he considered to be purely transitional fashion in 1967, a spring coat, adapted for the summer, can today be translated into sustainability. The less that is produced, the less cluttered the world becomes. Sustainability and quality become synonyms for reliability, for us and future generations. The production of things, the process of creating, the smell of materials, high-quality basics and durable, “unique” collections could be alternatives: a way to step off the spinning carousel. Accessories that allow for individual dreaming could tell of the beauty of fashion. Premiumquality editions and trust in local manufacturers could revive the awareness of cultural identity. And manufactories working with traditional skills could allow insight into the process of creation. Time awakens inspirations, to choose quality and allow for empathy. And of course fashion always remains surprising and, in the words of Roland Barthes, connects “…in a fantastical way, the intelligible, that people cannot live without, with the unpredictability ascribed to the myth of life.” Meaning: I am always ready for a new trench coat.

STREET ST YLE ST REE T ST YLE

GOOD STUFF

CLASSIC PIECES AS WORN IN EUROPEAN FASHION CAPITALS

wrangler 69 78

Wranger’s S18 “Blue & Yellow” capsule collection with retro and sporty elements

wrangler

In t ervIew rIno ca s t Igl Ione, wr angl er

the stuff Legends are Made of INTERVIEW ThorsTen osTerberger

There was a time when no worker would begin his day without first slipping into his Wrangler overalls, and no cowboy would take on a wild mustang without first donning his faithful jeans. Just like there was a time when the big letter “W” on the back pocket was a sign of revolution, the leather patch on the waist pretty much guaranteed a place on the VIP guest list of all the hottest clubs and when, in former East Germany, the name “Wrangler” was the quintessence of Western coolness. The label can still lay claim to all of this today — while successfully reinterpreting its designs for the 21st century. On the occasion of Wrangler’s 70th birthday, we spoke to EMEA president Rino Castiglione about the brand’s history and philisophy.

how would you describe Wrangler’s current image compared to other eras in the brand’s rich history? As one of the founding fathers of denim,

art, among others. Every decade is different and difficult to compare. As a brand we have also evolved with the environment. Today we are entering interesting times and new challenges with the digital era and a very fast-moving world where everything becomes obsolete very quickly. That’s also one of the reasons we have chosen to link our collection to nostalgia and go back to real values like authenticity, happiness and optimism.

We want to design authentic American apparel that is stylish and comfortable. RINO CASTIGlIONE

we have obviously seen many different eras and times in history: from rodeos and cowboys to a modern type of consumer, inspired by different areas such as sports, music and

What exactly are the reasons for the brand having stayed on top of the market for such a long time? how did Wrangler reinvent itself time and again? We have learned to connect with our consumer and have built a long-term relationship, growing with them through all periods. We care about being in touch with the market needs to provide a relevant and innovative denim offer. We choose to work with longterm partners to make the brand successful. We are constantly investing in research and brand-building in order to achieve our position as an aspirational denim lifestyle band. how important are social media, editorial interaction and influencers for a brand nowadays? More important than ever – we are strong believers in digital. We focus on social media channels, influencers, YouTube, and on younger, fashionable e-publications. Wrangler, with its anniversary, has taken a new and more digital direction to be part of the generation

Congratulations! Wrangler will be 70 this year! You’ve been the brand’s Ceo since January 2015. What has changed in this period and how did you achieve your goals? Yes, Wrangler is 70 years young! My time with Wrangler up until now has been an exciting and challenging adventure, changing the direction to offer a fresh and stylish product that can compete in the fast-moving fashion world. We are working together with the Wrangler global team to achieve international business growth and global brand consistency. We are repositioning the brand in all the channels, to be able to serve a new and younger consumer base with a strong focus on our core. We are also targeting the female consumer and focusing on a new brand vocabulary and digital investment. Changes are always very demanding, but with the support of our teams, key accounts and our partners we are achieving our goals. One project we worked on in the past year is the international celebration of our 70th anniversary. The inspiration came from our rich history. We dug around in our archives to create very unique capsule collections, like our collaboration with Peter Max, which is a big success – on sale now at premium retailers such as Colette, Yoox, Corso Como – and also our anniversary collection.

wrangler

I’ve always been attracted to the denim world because of its story, heritage and culture. Denim has been a symbol of communication and protest for many generations, but has also become a part of everyday life. RINO CASTIGlIONE

of the new centennials and millennials. Social awareness is part of our objective, through active interaction with our community. how would you describe the typical Wrangler customers of 2017? Denim lovers, confident in themselves, they dress for themselves and appreciate denim and clothing that help them transition through the many events and commitments they have every day. They are doers, they focus on what they do and want clothing that helps them do what they have to do. And they have strong style credentials.

Does Wrangler see itself more as a heritage label or a trendy one? When you are 70 years young, you can’t forget your roots or where you came from – we are one of the founding fathers of denim. Heritage for sure, and also as innovators. Wrangler is not trendy, but I would rather say on-trend, we are constantly looking to create high-quality products our consumers can rely on, both product-wise and fashion-wise.

Please describe the characteristics of Wrangler denim products in five keywords. American: Wrangler’s denim history goes back to 1904 when Charlie Hudson founded the Hudson Overall Company in Greensboro, North Carolina, USA. In 1947, with the start of a range of jeans for cowboys, Wrangler was born, named after the working cowboy. original: Wrangler’s unrivalled denim heritage lives on in contemporary cut jeans, still packed with seven iconic details including flat copper rivets and ergonomic watch pocket.

Signature designs such as the 27MW shirt and 11MJ jacket are beloved by denim connoisseurs and fashion fanatics alike. Iconic: 1970s – a decade where Wrangler became known as the denim icon it still is today. Steve McQueen, Mick Jagger, Martin Scorsese and Bob Marley wore the iconic Wrangler shirts; John lennon loved the Western jackets. Innovative: Creating products that mix techniques and features from technical apparel with the heritage and authenticity of Wrangler denim. best-Possible: Today, Wrangler continues to create the best-possible jeans, but for the needs of modern consumers. Blending style and function, the collection is built on modern fits that you can live in, energised with innovative finishes. Please describe the brand philosophy in one sentence.

To design authentic American apparel that is stylish and comfortable. how would you describe your personal passion for denim? I’ve always been attracted to the denim world because of its story, heritage and culture. Denim has been a symbol of communication and protest for many generations, but has also become a part of everyday life. I like clothing in general, but I love denim because even today each piece requires many different manual steps and goes through careful selection regarding technicality, washes and fits. Every single pair is different which makes it simply unique. What is your all-time favourite Wrangler piece? The key iconic piece: the overall. And for everyday life, I proudly wear my Bryson or larston jeans.

DENIM FOR EVERY SEASON PARIS SEPT. 18 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 21, 2017

Monday to Thursday Paris Le Bourget , France Free entry online www.texworld.messefrankfurt.com

Shirt Sandro Men, hat aSoS, SungkaSSeS StyliStS own

fashion

photography lars borges styling cathrin sonntag @ nina klein

earring anne MannS

models heo & tessa

i Spent the SuMMer waSting, the time waS paSSed So eaSily, But if the SuMMerĘźS waSted, how come that i could feel So free? 69

Belle & SeBaStian

loaferS CloSed

teSSa: pullover dieSel, necklace StyliStS own / heo: turtleneck top JoSeph, Shirt aSoS

fashion

pullover asos, pullover unDerneaTH Ba&sh, earring lefT studio Mason earring rigHT anne Manns, BereT laulhĂ¨re Via Falkenhagen

turtleneck MarC oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;polo, BlouSon fred perry, denim weekday, hip Bag weekday

faux fur coat dieSel, SunglaSSeS Bartron perreira

fashion

dreSS lana Mueller, denim Skirt dieSel BlaCk gold, earringS & other StorieS

fashion 69

uSad vfnaS kn mkรถaSm xnefaSpaSรถ, uSad vfnm tory hanSรถ, glaS

T-shirT Sandro, Denim LEViâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S

teSSa: pullover & denim dieSel, high heelS & other StorieS, necklace StyliSt won heo: turtleneck top JoSeph, Shirt aSoS, denim leViâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S, Jacket Cheap Monday, loaferS CloSed

fashion

pullover gina lauMannS

69 93

desert studio feature 69

text Pierre D'AvetA thorsten osterberger photography christoPh mAck

desert studio f e at u r e d e s e r t s t u d i o

text xxxxxxx

sustainable Denim innovations in dubai

J’N’C Magazine paid a visit to the Desert Studio – one of the world’s leading state-of-the-art boutique manufacturers in the Dubai desert. the innovative concept with the highest standards in terms of quality and sustainability

and ultra-fast production is highly impressive, particularly for customers from europe and the USa. With a productive capacity of up to 250,000 pieces per month, the Desert Studio focuses completely on the needs of its customers while maintaining a consistently high level of quality. Desert Studio offers the full denim production service under one roof — customers can develop and create their collection on site within the shortest possible timeframe. and as no visa is required to enter

the country, Dubai is also an appealing destination for designers and fashion brands who are also attracted by the emirates’ opulent range of tourist offers. We took a glimpse behind the scenes of the Desert Studio: in a new facility called the Laundry house, garments are conveniently washed without the use of any water. the process is called “hydro-less laundry” — a modern miracle considering the site’s location right in the middle of the desert.

gUiLheM VeLLUt

Sustainable denim innovation at the Machiyara group’s Desert Studio in Dubai

feature

photography christoPh mAck

desert studio

The embroidery machine from Tajima, Japan is one of the most reliable multi head embroidery set ups. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s not only used for embroidery and other embellishments, but also to repair jeans.

InnovatIve, contemporary, waterless: modern technology makes all the dIfference In denIm productIon at the desert studIo In dubaI

The E-Flow machine from Jeanologia, Spain is the state-of-the-art technology raising the bar when it comes to sustainable jeans production. A major reduction in use of water, chemicals and electricity is the result. The products are carried into the wash chamber by steam, instead of running water. It also allows for a whole new variety of different raw denim looks.

all production steps are controlled by a central computer system. this means cutting markers can be applied more efficiently, reducing textile remnants and waste. any remnants are reused for new denim fabrics or used in building insulation materials.

all the production lines are based on the Japanese production philosophy, enhancing the quality of products coming out of this boutique factory. every single garment has been checked and double checked several times throughout the production process.

techtextil / texprocess — FrankFurt

next stop: Mars TExT cheryll mühlen

tradeshows

PhOTOgRAPhy messe frankfurt

What does the textile future hold? A straightforward question to which there is no simple answer. A visit to Techtextil and Texprocess organised by Messe Frankfurt, however, shows us where the journey could be headed. Monday, 11 am. We have been invited to the Messe Frankfurt press conference to kick off this year’s Techtextil and Texprocess and the concluding press event. Officially, the four-day specialist fair begins on the following day, Tuesday, 12 May. First of all, we have the pleasure of listening to the greetings sent by astronaut Thomas Pesquet, streamed live into the venue’s “Europa” room from the International Space Station. “Living in Space” is, after all, the highlight and central theme of this fair. And guest of honour, Dr Reinhold Ewald, ESA astronaut and professor of astronautics and space stations at Stuttgart University, sums it up so well at the

end of the conference: “Without progress in the field of textiles, there would be no missions to outer space.” In the “Living in Space” area, which was set up in cooperation with the European Space Agency and the german Centre for Air and Space Research, we take a closer look at it all. Ultra-light materials play a central role here because if you’re travelling into space the following rule applies: the lighter things are, the easier they are to transport. And that, up to now, has been the biggest challenge. humans are no longer dreaming in small dimensions of voyages to the moon. No, we want to travel to Mars!

It’s unlikely that we will be able to think in terms of fashion standards with the first trip to Mars, but even so, the visions for it are already in preparation. Students at ESMOD Berlin, AMD Düsseldorf and POLI.design in Milan have already been busy designing high-tech fashion styles for what will be the biggest ever human adventure. Their designs, alongside the suits of the original NASA astronauts and cosmonauts, look genuinely futuristic. That’s also true of the architectural vision of space presented by top architect, Ben van Berkel. The 1:1 replica of a real Mars Rover is not only impressive, but also a contemporary creation that points to an exciting future. As do the satellites that hang from the ceiling and the virtual reality trips to Mars. The red sand on the floor rounds off the “Living in Space” area. “With its diversity, Techtextil is a prime example of the innovative strength of the textile industry.”

innovations galore

In conclusion: both fairs celebrated a visitor growth of 14 percent and registered all-round record numbers. “Despite having an increased number of staff at the booths, we still had queues of visitors. For us, this fair was a great success,” says Dr Jan Zimmermann from Techtextil exhibitor Forster Rohner from Switzerland. Other exhibitors concurred. Over 47,500 visitors from 114 countries came to the Messe Frankfurt ex-

techtextil 14 — 17 may 2019 usp: leading show For technical textiles messe FrankFurt ludwig-erhard-anlage 1 60327 FrankFurt am main techtextil.messeFrankFurt.com

techtextil / texprocess — FrankFurt

hibition grounds from 9-12 May to look at innovative products in the sector of technical textiles and learn about the latest processing and manufacturing technologies. With such a complex array of exhibits, it’s very easy to lose track. But this is where the “Navigator” apps, developed specially for the fairs, come in useful. And not only when preparing for your visit, but they also offer an index of exhibitors, a floor plan with integrated reminder list and an event calendar. A further highlight is the “Techtextil and Texprocess Innovation Award”, one of the most important dates for your diary. “Textiles contain life; you only need to think of space suits,” says Dr Reinhold Ewald. “At the same time, many of the materials developed for space travel have found a place in our daily lives.” Irrespective of who inspires or influences whom, each year the two fairs present awards to the best innovations in the sector of newly developed textiles. A total of eight prizes are awarded. This year, among others, the Leipzig start-up company Texlock won an award for its innovative, textilebased bike lock in the “New Product” category. In the “New Material” category, two products won awards. The Institute for Textile Chemistry and Chemical Fibres in Denkendorf won an award for Purcell, a tough composite material made of pure cellulose. Durafiber Technologies (France), one of the world’s leading manufacturers of polyester fibres, woven fabrics and materials would certainly have been pleased to receive an award for its alkali-resistant polyester hT thread. Tests showed that even when it was in contact with strong alkali products over several days at high temperatures, the thread maintained its technical properties almost unchanged. Julia gross-Müller from Trier University won the award for “Innovative Apparel Public”. There were so many incredible, exciting and innovative things to discover at Techtextil and Texprocess. The special “Living in Space” theme attracted the masses, the “Digital Textile Micro Factory” at Texprocess was praised for its successful implementation and live presentation – a further sign of a positive dynamic within the textile industry.

techtextil This year, Techtextil was held under the motto “Connecting the Future”. Like Texprocess, it takes place twice a year at Messe Frankfurt and is regarded as the leading international tradeshow for technical textiles and non-woven materials. Together, they showcase the whole spectrum of possible applications for textile technologies. The overriding character of the product groups and areas of application constitute the fair’s recipe for success. The versatility of technical textiles is exemplified in the 12 areas showcased at Techtextil, including Agrotech, Buildtech, Clothtech, geotech, hometech, Indutech, Medtech, Mobiltech, Oekotech (Ecotech), Packtech, Protech and Sporttech. texprocess Texprocess is the leading international trade fair for the clothing and textile manufacturing industry. It covers the product spectrum of the whole value-added chain, from design, cutting, CAD/CAM processing and process preparation to processing technologies and methodology, down to clothing and textile logistics, ironing, finishing, testing, waste disposal, recycling and environmental protection. The fair exhibits the latest machines, plants, technology and services for the production of textiles and flexible materials.

Tradeshows

textil is a prime example of the innovative strength of the textile industry.” “Texprocess demonstrates the great energy of the textile processing and manufacturing industry,” commented Olaf Schmidt, vice president of Textiles & Textile Technologies at Messe Frankfurt, when asked about the positive developments. “We are seeing a strong growth in exhibitor numbers, especially in the sectors of tailoring, as well as stitching, joining and fastening technology. And the automation of processes is taking on increasing importance.”

When we entered the halls on Tuesday, the stands were surrounded by curious trade visitors from all over the world, going up and down on the escalators, looking at the “Innovative Apparel Show” or joining the symposium and forum to learn more about “Industry 4.0”. This year’s Techtextil/Texprocess is the largest of its kind to date. In figures, that means 1,789 exhibitors from 66 countries. As a comparison, in 2015 there were 1,662 exhibitors from 54 countries. The organiser was pleased to report an overall increase of seven percent right from the start. This year, new countries like Lebanon, Mexico and Vietnam could be added to the list. “The number of exhibitors is evidence of the incredible dynamism to be found among the producers of technical textiles whose numbers are continuously increasing,” says a satisfied Detlef Braun, managing director of Messe Frankfurt. “With the diversity of application of the exhibited products, from the car industry to architecture, medicine, fashion to sport, Tech-

texworld — paris

the world oF FaBrics Texworld, organised by Messe Frankfurt, is one of the most significant and inspiring fairs in the industry. The tradeshow is moving into 2017 with self-assurance and confidence, and proudly presents its new jeans area “Texworld Denim”.

sense and sensiBility

Tradeshows

Texworld’s aim is to develop a new approach, a different way of exploring the aisles and discovering the trends, creating a true call to the senses. Visitors and exhibitors can revel in the surfeit of latest trends, touch and feel the materials and enjoy an even more vibrant event than the last.

100

Today, thanks to the worldleading trade fair organiser, Messe Frankfurt, Texworld Paris is so much more than just a place where people meet to do business.

“The trajectory taken by Texworld Paris fills us with great joy and satisfaction,” said Michael Scherpe, president of Messe Frankfurt France, after the 40th edition in February. The upcoming 41st edition under the motto “Ex-aequo” will be taking place from 18 - 21 September 2017 and is building on the success of the past events. As always, textiles, decor and clothing components are at the focus. Texworld’s strategy? Stay true to yourself. “Right from the start, the concept has been aimed at bringing all major international textile manufacturers and European fashion labels together in the capital city of fashion,” Scherpe summarises. “This approach is still attractive and perfectly fulfils the needs of international buyers.” This is also confirmed by the figures from February: with a total of 700 exhibitors, numbers have risen 11 percent. This in turn means a larger choice of products, which can only enrich the event’s fash-

Singapore also demonstrates the international flair of the event. And closer to home, France is also represented with printed and dyed fabrics company Domotex, Portugal with 6 Dias and the UK with Oddies Textile. This broad portfolio, composed of countries from every corner ion factor. For the next edition, of the globe, attracts not only the organisers are also expectexhibitors but also visitors. For ing growth. To date, around 900 the 40th edition alone, over exhibitors are expected from at 13,500 people headed to the Le least 25 countries. Bourget trade fair grounds. And The fact that it belongs to the according to surveys, they were largest textile trade fair organalso very pleased with their visit. iser, Messe Frankfurt, ensures Especially the buyers – exactly 97 Texworld Paris is very internapercent to be exact. So you can tional. At the fore is China. At the already start looking forward to last edition, China was the biggest the new “Texworld Denim” area, nation to be represented, closely a reaction to the huge demand followed by major industry player and proof that Texworld knows number two, Turkey. India is the how to respond to the needs of third most important country the market. exhibiting at Texworld Paris. In The foundations have been laid February alone the subcontinent for the successful 41st edition was represented here by over and the organisers are highly mo50 firms – especially embroidery tivated to accompany the textile companies and lace manufacindustry into the future. turers. Among the traditional heavyweights of Texworld are also texworld Lenzing from Austria, as well as American Cotton Council Interna- 18 — 21 septemBer 2017 tional. The presence of Canadian usp: textiles, FaBrics, components denim specialists Dizaro, Egyptian le Bourget parc des expositions cotton distributor for shirts, El 93350 paris hesn, and the knitting manufactexworld.Fr.messeFrankFurt.com turer KCTex International from

DYSIGN 5 -7 SEPT 2017 I N T E R N AT I O N A L FA B R I C T R A D E FA I R

greenshowroom & ethical Fashion show

BRANDS TO WAT C H greenshowroom & ethical Fashion show 4— 6 July 2017 usp: sustainaBle Fashion Funkhaus Berlin nalepastr. 18, 12459 Berlin greenshowroom.com

no more clichÉs

tradeshows

Whether avant-garde or timeless — at the greenshowroom and the Ethical Fashion Show in Berlin top-notch labels are doing away with the clichés associated with sustainable fashion.

102

From 4 to 6 July 2017, the greenshowroom and Ethical Fashion Show Berlin will be presenting their combined sustainability power in a new setting: Funkhaus Berlin. And the new location is proving very popular. After the announcement was made, demand among exhibitors rose sharply. That’s welcome news for the organisers, Messe Frankfurt, and confirms their concept is right on track: creating inspiration for retailers, an optimised hall structure, segmentation for a better overview and more of a focus on retail. “Numerous key players and established labels have already confirmed their participation and are looking forward to the excellent presentation opportunities offered by the

Funkhaus,” says Olaf Schmidt, vice-president of Textiles & Textile Technologies for Messe Frankfurt. The aptly named “Shedhalle” (Shed hall) of the partially listed architectural ensemble on the Spree river is at ground level and filled with natural daylight, providing a spacious and open setting for the two events. The fashion shows will also be taking place in the Shedhalle. In terms of the fashion on show, contemporary and high fashion are the core focus at the greenshowroom, a trade fair established by Magdalena Schaffrin in 2009. Whether avant-garde or timeless – top-notch labels are doing away with the clichés associated with sustainable fashion once and for all. The Ethical Fashion Show also has a broad range on offer: from denim and streetwear labels to casual and business, all the way to kids, traditional craftsmanship and pioneers of eco fashion. And they are catering to the needs of retailers more than ever: numerous information and inspiration platforms are available in the retail area “JETZT!” (NOW!). So there’ll be a lot to learn and discover once again.

wickerwork bags by TONIO ABEL , handmade with natural materials, continue the tradition of typical Portuguese market baskets.

German eco denim company FEUERVOGL shows cotton and denim trends, manufactured in a sustainable and ecological way.

German-Chinese label LANGERCHEN designs clothing that is made from environmentally friendly wool, linen and cotton.

SUMMER STYLES 2017

02 â&#x20AC;&#x201C;04 SEPT

OFFENBACH WWW.ILM-OFFENBACH.DE FOLLOW US ON

Jacket Tory Burch

fashion

You cannot, in human experience, rush into the light. You have to go through the twilight into the broadening daY before the noon comes and the full sun is upon the landscape. woodrow wilson

photography oliver Beckmann @ mn creaTive

hair & makeup sigi kumpfmĂźller

styling elke DosTal @ nina klein

model TaTiana checheTova @ m4 moDels

105

fashion 69

Dress anD LongsLeeve michael kors, Bag Tory Burch, gLasses chloĂŠ

106

Jacket Tory Burch, BLouse Diane von fursTenBerg*, Jeans sanDy liang*, Bag Tory Burch, kerchief hermĂ¨s, Boots Dr .marTens

*at st ylebop.com

fashion 69

BLouse marques' almeiDa*, JeweLLery styList's own

*at st ylebop.com

109

110

Jacket marques' almeiDa*, trousers Zoe karssen

fashion

sweater kenZo*, Logo-sweater Dkny*, trousers Zoe karssen Bag michael kors, watch hermès, JeweLLery hermès anD sweeT Deluxe

*at st ylebop.com

112

Pants peTer piloTTo, JeweLLery hermĂ¨s

order location Düsseldor f

INTERNATIONAL FASHION TRADE SHOW

EVENING & OCCASION

July 22 – 24, 2017 GALLERY-DUESSELDORF.COM

INTERNATIONAL TRADE SHOW FOR SHOES & ACCESSORIES

August 27 – 29, 2017 GALLERY-SHOES.COM

AREAL BÖHLER / DÜSSELDORF

lEyl a PIEdayEsh

J'N'C t a l k

fashion rules

leyla Piedayesh

out of the house and shop… tell them who you are… give them reasons to connect with you and your brand… see #5 Build Community.

lala BERlIN

114

Since her Autumn/ Winter 2017 collection presentation, where she proudly demonstrated against Donald Trump on the runway with a sign stating: “I’m an immigrant”, Leyla Piedayesh’s political and social commitment has continued to grow. We asked the successful creative director and founder of fashion label Lala Berlin what needs to change in the international fashion business – and what rules she would introduce for the future, if she were in charge.

Respect Mother Earth — building an eco system professionally and privately that gives back to the one planet we have. Slow the f@*k down, sleep more — a healthy lifestyle drives sound business decisions… taking more time to create and innovate. Free fashion from the seasons — just jump off the hamster wheel and recognise that we all shop with an immediacy of what we want and whenever we might want it… there

is definitely a beauty and efficiency to a seasonless fashion calendar. Keep it real — and be authentic with your teams, with your brand and with your customers… Build community — with your business partners/clients – just as you surround yourself with people who share your values, so should you do in business as well… Make shopping fun again — give your customers a reason to get

Thirsty Thursdays! Nothing builds team spirit like regularly recognising and celebrating your team for their hard work. (Alcohol helps as well but may not be HR approved :)) Always strive for innovation in all you do! Work with your hands (or other people’s hands) — craftsmanship gives value to a product. Promoting artisans who have built up a craft over generations pays homage to that history and adds authenticity.

nada lottermann & vanessa fuentes

Look in the mirror — reflection is key to true insight – for yourself and for your business.

AMSTERDAM

DÃ&#x153;SSELDORF

TO K YO

SHANGHAI

PRINSENGR ACHT 493, THE NETHERLANDS

HAMMER STRASSE 26, GERMANY

A K - 1 B L D G 3 F, M E G U RO - K U , JA PA N

1717 WEST NANJING RD, WHEELOCK SQUARE, CHINA