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Artisan Cheese & French~Style Wine

from 55 Gippsland Lifestyle Winter

by gippsland life

from 55 Gippsland Lifestyle Winter, page 126

Article from: 55 Gippsland Lifestyle Winter

Wonthaggi Heathlands Cutlers B...

Capturing the essence of the farmland in their produce

Words By Megan Woolfe | Photos By Doug Pell

Rachel Needoba and William (Bill) Downie’s farm is located in the foothills of the Strzelecki Ranges, on the fertile soils of Yarragon South. Here they live with their three children, in a rustic farm house that emanates country charm. The front veranda looks out over a serene view of their vineyard, and beyond to a wide expanse of patchwork farmland.

Rachel and Bill put down roots here 17 years ago and have created a way of life that epitomises their philosophy of living off the land.

“Originally we wanted to produce enough food to be completely self-sufficient. When we had kids, we got a lot busier. Our goals changed and we focused on making more community connections and trading produce,” says Rachel. “Farmers work so hard and it’s important that we support each other.”

On their farm is a little mixed orchard, as well as sheep, some aging chickens, two cats (who take care of the uninvited rats) and Archie, the draught horse. Until recently, they also had a few cows and pigs, but have simplified things while they organise new fencing. Bill says, “We were influenced by the Amish model of farming, which is all about having a diversified small holding farm, with a variety of income sources, each on a very small scale.” Organic and sustainable farming practices are embedded into everything they do.

A French connection

As a young adult, Bill developed a zeal for winemaking, working in vineyards in South Gippsland and then the Yarra Valley. When Rachel finished school, she learnt about wines whilst working in restaurants in the U.S. She then did some harvesting work and was employed by an American wine importer. It’s no wonder they were both drawn to Burgundy, in France - one of the most famous wine regions in the world.

The two of them met through a mutual friend and felt an instant connection. Bill says, “All of our experiences and immersion in the French culture helped us to gain clarity about what we wanted in life. We realised we had the same vision.” Bill laughs, “I went to Burgundy with a hope of finding a partner, preferably a French woman on a tractor, with a vineyard,” Rachel chips in, “…and the last thing I expected, was to fall in love with a man from Gippsland.”

After a few years of living half the year in Australia and the other half in France, they decided to make Australia their permanent home. Having grown up in the Latrobe Valley, Bill felt a strong affinity towards the Gippsland landscape. After some challenges and delays, they were thrilled to finally own the Yarragon South farm they’d been eyeing off for a few years. Bill says, “Over a decade earlier, I drove past many times on my way to Melbourne. I remember gazing across at that hill and imagining planting a vineyard on it.”

From vine to bottle

Bill established his own label ‘William Downie’ in 2003. Just three years later, he was awarded Young Australian Winemaker of the year. He uses the most natural methods possible, which creates a purity and detail that has earned him a reputation as one of Australia’s finest Pinot Noir producers.

He leases a number of vineyards in West Gippsland. Bottles from his own farm are labelled with its name, ‘Guendulain Farm’.

Protecting his vines from disease and pests, without using chemicals requires a high level of monitoring, problem solving and natural interventions. Rachel says, “Bill takes a holistic approach and understands the interactions within the environment, working in harmony with it.”

He maximises quality over quantity. “We have only five to six bunches of grapes per vine, instead of 20-30 bunches that most Australian vineyards have.” Another difference is that Bill prunes so that the bunches grow lower. He explains, “This makes harvesting more difficult, but it’s important. It ensures that a lot more of the yeast and bacteria that live in the soil are present on the bunches. Every little piece of land has its own unique microbiome, so having that element enables the wine to become a true reflection of the place.”

Once harvested, the grapes go to Wild Dog Winery, in Warragul. He enlists the help of his parents and together they meticulously sort through the bunches on a conveyer belt. “We reject anything that’s not up to scratch,” Bill says. Five other winemakers work from there, so it’s a very collaborative environment.

Bill says, “One of the most valuable lessons I learnt from the winemakers in Burgundy, was it’s the landscape that gives the wine its potential. The hard work done in the vineyard is what determines the quality.”

The Butterfly Factory

Rachel had dreamed of having her own micro dairy since being inspired by the dairies in France. In 2020, when her children were a bit older, she turned her dream into reality and rented a small factory in Warragul. She produced butter, cream, yoghurt and then pasteurised milk. Here, her brand ‘The Butterfly Factory’ was born.

After three years, Rachel and Bill received a grant from the Department of Agriculture. This enabled them to convert the existing winery on their property into Rachel’s own quintessential farmhouse cheese factory. She says her decision to specialise in cheesemaking was an easy one.

“The handmade artisan style processes suit my interests, not to mention, I love cheese.”

Rachel started searching for the best cheesemaking milk. She says, “I needed it to be capable of expressing a sense of place, otherwise, it’d be pointless.”

She met organic dairy farmers, John and Irene Crawford from the nearby town of Darnum. They have Fleckvieh cows, a common breed in the cheese making areas in France. Rachel was stoked when she found out that their cows were low yielding and only grass-fed, (which is important in the cheese fermentation process). This was exactly what she’d been looking for! To this day, she sources all of her fresh milk from their farm, St Ives.

Rachel strives to make a positive environmental impact. An example of this is what she does with the huge buckets of whey that are a by-product of cheesemaking. She explains, “It’s very acidic, so we came up with the ideal solution.” Michael, a pig farmer who lives nearby drops in regularly to pick it up, and feeds it to his pigs. This makes his pork sweeter and much tastier. It’s a win-win arrangement.

Sharing their gourmet specialties

The most discerning restaurants in Victoria plate up Rachel’s cheeses, delighting diners with their creamy, rich and velvety textures. Taking a sip of Bill’s Pinot Noir, tasters are taken on a sensory journey. Distinctive flavours evolve on the palate to reveal a depth and complexity of character like no other.

Rachel and Bill express their connection and harmonisation with the land through their carefully refined processes. The heart and essence of the landscape they love is embodied in their produce.

“Being able to share our cheese and wine with others is incredibly fulfilling for us,” Rachel says.