10 minute read

Guillermo Andrade

Guillermo Andrade

FOSTERING FASHION

424. Three deceivingly simple digits. As the famous semiotician, Ferdinand de Saussure would posit, the red 424 is a symbol—behind which lies a plethora of ideas, perspectives and histories tied to a particular (sub)culture. For Guillermo Andrade, that band of red calls to mind the movements of an ever-changing fashion label which began simply as an address—albeit an address on the most legendary avenue in streetwear history. Now, as an expansive multi-room retail experience and the home of a full-fledged fashion brand, 424 is one of the first names that come to mind when we think of contemporary menswear.

Located in the center of Fairfax, the FourTwoFour shop has remained consistent through the ebb and flow of the life-cycles of streetwear, due largely in part to how its founder managed to pivot with the landscape of men’s fashion. Starting simply as a place to anchor ideas and open dialogues with the community, Guillermo never sought to be the biggest retailer in LA. His aim has always been to start supporting young creatives, “I enjoy sharing my resources with the people I feel have something special and could really use the help."

The self-proclaimed “perennially big brother,” to this day, doesn’t disappoint. One of the longest-standing names in streetwear, Guillermo has fostered several new and virtually unknown brands around Los Angeles since 2010 from within his store. Growing up as an

undocumented immigrant in LA, Guillermo’s path could have been pulled from a storybook titled The American Dream. He came to the U.S. from Guatemala with his family, where they had to adapt to the as-yet foreign LA culture, yet Guillermo’s own fondness for clothing made the aesthetics-obsessed LA vibe one of the easiest shocks to absorb. No matter what, when, how, where or why, Guillermo always dresses in his best. “I do not wear sandals or sweats even to clean my house, I get fully dressed.”

Now in 2018, the retail shop has extended further from the single storefront space on Fairfax into the building directly behind it, which serves as both a showroom space, and a place to showcase new brands. Guillermo’s own label, which started in 2014—also called 424—has progressed from a simple 424 armband to producing their own cut-and-sew blazers, trousers, denim jackets and more, all still championing the signature red accents.

Though in actuality an LA transplant, Guillermo himself and 424 exemplify the "streetwear" mentality we speak about so often, solidifying his impact on Los Angeles culture. However, Guillermo has nothing to do with the city’s other side of Hollywood actors, ball players and attitudes preened by wealth and vanity. In that respect, he stays away from the city’s charms and looks instead to ignite conversations with his brick-and-mortar store and more recently, though his own clothing label – his latest collection touching on themes of surveillance, systemic power and police brutality, which strikes an especially-poignant chord with city locals.

Coming up in streetwear during a time when colorful T-shirts and loud screen-printed graphics with bold text reigned supreme, his focus on genuine themes and socially relevant topics has helped his label continue to evolve, both in meaning and how it impacts our culture, as one of the few brands to successfully settle in the hardto-pinpoint space between street and luxury menswear.

We made a visit to FourTwoFour to catch up with the man himself.

Q&A

How would you describe your own style? This is always a tough question because it’s so hard to imagine how people see me, because I can’t see myself from an outside perspective. I will outline the things I like, you can take it from there. The color black is important to me, mixing the light and the dark. Vintage designer pieces with current underground streetwear or classic Americana workwear; I’ll wear a runway Rick Owens blazer with a white tee and AF1s. I do not wear sandals or sweats even to clean my house, I get fully dressed. I love to mix all my favorite aspects of fashion, no rules.

“I'LL WEAR A RUNWAY RICK

OWENS BLAZER WITH A WHITE TEE AND AF-1S. I DO NOT WEAR SANDALS OR SWEATS EVEN TO CLEAN MY HOUSE, I GET

FULLY DRESSED. ”

What is 424 today?It’s a dream manifested. Always-evolving perpetualdream.

Why did you feel the need to open the store in 2010? I really felt that it would be the only way to introduce something new. Having a physical spot in the world that I could anchor my ideas to. Develop a dialogue both with the community and with product.

What stories or messages were you trying to tell as a retailer from 2010-2015? The message is always to further our conversation as a whole, contributing to our scene and the global community of young designers.

Why did you decide to start your own brand? The brand came because people kept coming into the shop saying, “G you gotta make some shit! I would cop!” After hearing that so many times, it really started an itch inside of me. When Brad came to work with us, he brought with him this fuck it attitude—I had always dreamed of making clothes and he lit that fire for sure. It was so motivating for me, he was a

big part of the first collection. We had fun working on that collection and learned a lot.

The brand’s messages are so distinct, where are they rooted? I truly feel that if we are given a voice, we should say something worth listening to.

Any personal experiences that motivated you? What are you looking to say at this moment in your brand? Learning motivates me. Curiosity is the best teacher for me — trial and error.

Moving to the U.S. as an undocumented citizen, how did you view American society? Has that changed with time? I was young at the time, so all I understood then was that my parents were bringing me to America for a

better life. Now I’ve traveled the world, my viewson America continue to shift the more I learn aboutthe world. I would describe it as a bipolar love affair.

Why do you feel the need to tell these stories in the first place? I tell my story because I didn’t have someone telling it when I was younger. I’m an older brother so I have the responsibility to learn, pass on the information and whatever knowledge that we are not taught or privileged to.

How does LA dictate your brand? My second childhood was all California, everything about it; I love it here. I’m based in Los Angeles. The spirit of this city is most definitely in the DNA of 424. But I am not from LA.

On LA fashion: what is it nowadays, and does it have its own culture? Where does it land among the fashion landscapes of the world? We got LA. It’s not like any other place in the world. The double-edged sword of Hollywood, the gift and the curse that anything can happen at any moment, is both amazing and tragic. The culture in LA is beauty and fame at all costs. Balancing that and trying to find your place in the world is not for the faint of heart. Then you have the massive presence of Latino people who live here just around the corner; it’s a different reality, “REAL LIFE” my people. The place where I’m supposed to be at based on how I came to this country. AN IMMIGRANT.

I would say there’s lots of energy coming from LA fashion because we are independent—or started that way, at least—and we made some noise. The game changed after we all started to hit Paris, London, Copenhagen, Milan, etc. We went from trade shows in Vegas, to showing my collection at Place Vendôme

in Paris in our own showroom on top of Comme headquarters as an independent brand! I didn’t even know what Place Vendôme was back then.

You’ve always been around in this industry, but more behind-the-scenes than in-your-face. Is that on purpose? How has 424 lasted through time? We’re honest. I don’t come from fashion, or streetwear even. I used to be a kid who loved clothes and I’ve been studying and learning endlessly. I’m trying to aim for something different with 424 that can last a long time even after I’m gone.

You talk about being a “big brother” not only to your actual brothers, but other up-and-coming brands. 424 is almost like an incubator in a way. Do you feel like this is your responsibility? Have you always been this way? I enjoy the dialogue with younger people so much. The spirit, the motivation, that look in their eye when they know they are gonna kill it. I don’t feel the burden of it because I enjoy sharing my resources with the people I feel have something special and could really use the help. I can’t remember ever being different.

Last summer you had your first show, why then? And what do you think about fashion shows in general & the conventional structure of high fashion? That was a rap concert. It was fun man, we did it to have fun. Much love to Wiz for being such a good collaborative partner and also Ruth Gruca for making sure we got to do whatever we wanted to. When we do have a real show, it’s gonna be in Paris. Just like anything else, you cannot hope to change it unless you completely understand it. At the moment I’m learning.

“I ENJOY DIALOGUE WITH YOUNGER

PEOPLE SO MUCH.

THE SPIRIT, THE MOTIVATION, THAT LOOK IN THEIR EYE WHEN THEY KNOW

THEY ARE GOING TO KILL IT. ”

You seem to always stay true to who you are, how has this helped you & what you do? I do what I like. That makes it so I can always stand by my decisions and follow them passionately. It’s not always the best approach when you’re trying to make money, but over time you find a balance.

Do you think it’s hard nowadays for people to know who they are, with all the media, tech and noise? Every person is different. While some get comfortable in the routine of the digital simulations given to them, others use all of the new resources that technology has opened up and find their voice much quicker in life. I believe we really live in a time where anything is possible if you want it bad enough. And if you’re 9 years old, armed with an iPhone plus the collective knowledge of all mankind on Google… Well.

I feel that you have a really distinct ethos and set of principles, can you tell us a bit about some rules you go by? My only rule would be to do what I feel. I have to feel it. Your own body is the ultimate guide to your own truth.

As one of the first to bring luxury fashion to “street” & youth, how does it feel to see where fashion is at now? I learned so much over the years. I had no idea what real luxury was. Now that I have a better understanding, I find the mix very inspirational. I feel super blessed to be a part of the conversation.

Where else will you be venturing into in your career? I’m landing in Munich now, just leaving Italy where I’ve been developing SS19. I never thought I would get to come to Europe. Now I work here. Life is hectic and you gotta keep at it. My career is going to continue to develop. I hope it takes me and my team many places.

On a personal note I would like to go to space.